FAQ/Walkthrough by CyricZ
Version: 1.0 | Updated: 09/26/18
Table of Contents
- The Basics
- Exploring Japan
- Combat and Abilities
- Main Story Walkthrough
- Chapter 1 - Letter of Blood
- Chapter 2 - The Dragon of Kansai
- Chapter 3 - The Yakuza Huntress
- Chapter 4 - The Four Kings of Omi
- Chapter 5 - Hidden Past
- Chapter 6 - Schemes
- Chapter 7 - The Foreign Threat
- Chapter 8 - Suspect
- Chapter 9 - The Omi Invasion
- Chapter 10 - Survivors
- Chapter 11 - The Iron Creed
- Chapter 12 - Osaka Castle
- Chapter 13 - Settling Accounts
- Chapter 14 - The Go-Ryu March
- Chapter 15 - Blood and Bonds
- Chapter 16 - Decision
- The Majima Saga Walkthrough
- Combat with Majima
- Chapter 1 - Tojo Clan Reform
- Chapter 2 - Prodigal Son
- Chapter 3 - Mad Dog of Shimano
- Hidden Items for Majima
- Chapter 1 Substories
- Chapter 2 Substories
- Chapter 3 Substories
- Chapter 4 Substories
- Chapter 5 Substories
- Chapter 6 Substories
- Chapter 7 Substories
- Chapter 8 Substories
- Chapter 10 Substories
- Chapter 11 Substories
- Chapter 13 Substories
- Cabaret Club Grand Prix
- Basics of a Cabaret Club
- The Hostess Brigade
- Grooming Your Platinums
- Business Partners
- Grand Prix Battles
- Intermission Chat
- Clan Creator
- Building a Business
- Basics of Clan Battles
- Construction Employees
- Clan Tips
- Clan Missions
- Intermission Chats
- City Exploration
- Battles in the City
- Arcade: Toylet Games
- Arcade: UFO Catcher
- Arcade: Virtua Fighter 2
- Arcade: Virtual-On
- Batting Center
- Casino: Blackjack
- Casino: Poker
- Gambling Hall: Koi-koi
- Gambling Hall: Oicho-kabu
- Golf Center
- Gravure Photo Shoot
- Standard Guide Stuff
Location: Lullaby Mahjong in Kamurocho or Riichi Towers Mahjong in Sotenbori
Mahjong, as you'll be playing it in this game, is "riichi mahjong", similar to the card came of rummy, played with four players using mahjong tiles. It's not an easy game to just jump into. It has some terminology and rules and requirements that you'll have to learn before you can effectively play, so there's going to be a bit of reading required.
That said, having played Mahjong in Yakuza games for a while now I can say that since learning how to actually play it, I've found it to be a lot of fun and worth my time investment it took to learn. It can also be worth a cool amount of money, especially early in the game. Since certain Awards in the game require you to play, I suggest sticking with it. You might find a new hobby out of it.
You can go to either Lullaby Mahjong in Kamurocho or Riichi Towers Mahjong in Sotenbori. Once inside, you'll notice a gentleman at the counter, and two groups of guys huddled around a table playing. Each of these tables is a different difficulty: Lullaby has Easy and Medium as difficulties and Riichi Towers has Medium and Hard.
Approach any of the tables and they'll ask if you want to play. Each difficulty requires a different buy-in. Easy requires 12,500 yen, Medium requires 25,000 yen, and Hard requires 50,000 yen. Once you pony up the cash, the game will begin.
If you speak to the man at the counter, he'll ask if you want to join the tournament, or if you want to know the "uma" bonus point structure for the games. I'll explain the tournament much later in this section.
From there on, you'll be able to change some rules as you like. You can play a Full Game (minimum eight hands) or a Half Game (minimum four hands). Technically these are "half" and "quarter" games. A true full game of Mahjong is mininum sixteen hands. With the "Kuitan" rule active, you can go out on an open hand of simples. With the "Red Dora" rule turned on, you can use special red tiles to add extra points to scores. Lastly, the 2-han minimum rule requires that winning hands be worth at least 2-han. I suggest going Half Game to keep things from dragging, turning the Kuitan and Red Dora rules on, and not bothering with the 2-han minimum.
After several years of doing this, I've found a lot of people learn by watching, so please enjoy this video of me playing a couple of rounds of the game. Enjoy my repeated failures. Note that despite this being played on Yakuza 6, Kiwami 2's variant is played almost 100% the same.
Mahjong is played with 136 tiles. There are four of each tile, and the tiles are further separated into "suited" and "honors".
Suited tiles are tiles that are numbered one through nine, and are members of one of three suits: bamboo (green and red rectangles), characters (black symbol over red), and dots (circles). You'll notice in this game (Thank Buddha) that for any suited tile where the number is not clear, you'll have a little pink number in the upper-left corner denoting its value. You'll see this pink number on all of the character tiles, and the one of bamboo, nominally represented as a peacock. This means you no longer have to learn kanji to figure them out. The rest of the bamboo and the dots are pretty easy to determine just by looking what value they have.
Honors are considered higher-ranking. There are seven types of them: four winds and three dragons.
The winds are the characters for North, East, South, and West written in black. Again, you'll see pink Roman letters in the upper-left corner denoting which is which.
The dragons have a "D" in the upper-left corner and are green, red, and white. The green dragon is a character that's all green. The red dragon is a character that's a red box with a vertical line through it. The white dragon is a blank white tile.
Each player is dealt thirteen tiles. The rest of the tiles are put into a draw pile represented by a counter in the info window at the center. Fourteen tiles are put into a "dead wall" that is not drawn from normally. Play starts with the first person to draw from the wall, place the tile in their hand, then discard one tile, always keeping thirteen tiles in their hand. Play will continue in this manner, interrupted only by people stealing tiles (see "Pon, Chi, and Kan" below), someone going out, or the tiles from the draw wall being exhausted, resulting in a draw.
The main focus of putting together your hand is to make four melds and a pair. Melds consist of three tiles that are either the exact same tile, a "triplet", or three tiles of the same suit in sequence, a "run". With those melds and a pair of the exact same tile, you'll be able to "go out" and make points. That's the very simplest way of putting it, but it gets more complicated when you learn exactly what a winning hand entails. More on that in the "Going Out" section below.
Note that with a run that having four or five in a sequence doesn't allow you to go out on their own. That said, having multiple sequences does open up some options. For example, having a 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 of the same suit isn't enough on their own, but you have the option of two full melds if you get a 2 or an 8 (234 and 567 or 345 and 678) or even another 5 (345 and 567). A lot of higher-level gameplay is giving yourself options for multiple ways to get a meld and knowing what's better to discard. For instance, consider two fours and a three of the same suit. No good on their own, but if you get a two, a four, or a five of the same suit, you've got a meld and can discard the remaining one. Even if you get a three, this opens up even more options, as two runs that are exactly the same are worth more points when going out.
Dora is a small factor but worth noting. See that one face-up tile on the dead wall? That's the dora indicator tile. If you have the next tile in the sequence in your hand when you go out, it's "dora" and worth 1 Dora point, and if you have multiples of that same tile, it's worth that many more. Now, "next tile in the sequence" is different depending on what the indicator is. For the most part, it's one number up if you have a suited tile, and if the indicator is a nine, the dora is a one of that same suit. In the case of winds, the dora is the next wind in a clockwise direction, so if the indicator is West then the dora is North. In the case of dragons, the sequence is "green-red-white"; which is alphabetical order if you need that mnemonic.
Red Dora is an option you can turn on before the game starts. With this on, two of each of the number five tiles (six in total) will be colored red. If you get them and can work them into a meld, they'll each add 1 to the Dora count.
So, if you've stumbled through this minigame, you'll sometimes come upon the option to press X to declare "Pon", "Chi", or "Kan" and steal a tile from them. A good general rule if this is offered is "don't", but let me explain that in more depth.
This is the concept of stealing tiles from your opponents' discards. When your opponent discards, if the tile he throws out can complete a meld in your hand, you have the option of taking that tile to complete the meld:
- "Pon" is taking the third tile of a triplet.
- "Chi" is taking the third tile in a run.
- "Kan" is taking the fourth tile in a quad and also has some extra things that happen. More on that in a second.
Pon and Kan can be done on any opponents' discard. Chi can only be done on the player to your left, given how often it could come up.
Once you steal, those tiles are flipped over, put aside, and cannot be changed for the rest of the hand. It's still a legitimate meld, but your hand is no longer "fully concealed" and is declared "open". Being fully concealed allows you to go out even if you don't have any special qualities to your hand, but stealing a tile means your options for going out are now more limited. It's the risk you take for grabbing something you've already seen.
Now, should you never steal? There's a long and interesting answer to that, but it basically boils down to "what are you trying to make"? If you have a particular hand in mind, especially a high-scoring hand, maybe you should steal to finish it, even if it means fewer points. If you're kinda just going with whatever, then maybe you should hold off even if the opportunity has presented itself. If someone has declared Riichi, meaning they're one tile away from going out, maybe steal a little bit more to see if you can beat them to it. Just take care when doing so.
One situation where you can consider it "okay" to steal is when going for a triplet of a Dragon. If you have that, you can go out even if the hand is open. Also, the same is true if have a triplet of a wind that matches either your seat wind or the prevailing wind.
Okay, "Kan". When you declare a quad as Kan, you end up doing two things. First, you'll take an extra tile, because you're now down one tile having used it to make a fourth, but you still need to make four melds. Second, a new dora indicator tile will be flipped on the dead wall. Good news is that you can now make dora with two possible tiles. Bad news is that so can any of your opponents. Declaring kan is a risky move that you may want to reserve only if you're getting close to the end and want to see if you can tack a few more points on.
You actually do not have to steal to declare Kan. There's the concept of a "closed kan", which you can do if you actually get dealt the four tiles instead of stealing the last one. If you can make a closed kan, then your hand is still declared "concealed", but you still get the benefits of declaring a kan, including the extra dora indicator and a spare tile. Furthermore, you can also declare a "late Kan" if you previously declared a Pon and the fourth tile of that triplet appears.
So, here you are. Your hand is getting close to being complete. The first question to ask yourself is: will this be a valid hand to go out on? The game provides a LONG list of valid hands that you can go out with, but I'll try to simplify it as much as possible here with some questions for your hand:
- Have you stolen a tile by declaring "pon", "chi", or "kan"? If so, your options become more limited for what you can use.
- What is the prevailing wind (starts at East) and your current seat wind (in front of you)? If you have trips of those, that's points.
- Dragons are worth points entirely on their own.
- Dora does not count towards being able to go out. They're literal bonus points on top of your hand.
Lastly, do you qualify for any of the more complicated hands that don't require melds? There are two important ones: Seven Pairs and Thirteen Orphans. Seven Pairs is not all that difficult to make. It's literally what it says: you have six pairs and a loner in your hand and the extra tile you draw makes the seventh pair. Thirteen Orphans is a hand where you have one each of the four winds, one each of the three dragons, one each of the "ones", and one each of the "nines", and for the 14th tile, you have a second one of any of the preceding. Pretty tough to make.
In all likelihood, you'll probably have a hand with some runs, some trips, and a pair, or at least close to that, and if you haven't declared pon, chi, or kan, then you can go out simply on that once you complete all the melds. The game will offer you the option automatically if you can declare "ron" or "tsumo", so keep an eye open for it.
So, first is the idea of "riichi". If you're in a situation where you need one more tile to win and you still have a fully concealed hand with no stealing, press Square and you can declare riichi. You will then (in a flashy cutscene), lay down a 1000-point stick, basically betting 1000 points that you can complete your hand. My advice is to tap Square every so often as you get late in your hand to see if you can declare, just in case you missed it yourself. Once you actually declare, the music will kick into high gear you will not be able to change your hand any more, and are just waiting on draws for the tile (or tiles) you need to come in. If you go out on that hand, then you'll get extra for having declared riichi. Also, if you go out having declared riichi, "ura dora" comes into play, meaning that the tiles beneath any dora indicators are also dora indicators, doubling your chances at dora. These tiles are mysteries until the actual going out.
One thing to note is that when you press the Square button for Riichi, the game gives you a helpful guide on what you'll need to go out in the lower left corner. You'll see valid tiles and the number of which are still unknown as to whether they're in play or not. For instance, seeing a five of bamboo with a "3" next to it means that you'll need a five of bamboo to win, and three of them are still unaccounted for by you. They could be in the draw pile. They could be in someone else's hand. They could be in the dead wall for all you know. All you know is that they aren't in your hand or discarded. This may go without saying, but always go for the highest possible amount of tiles that could work for you, because in some cases you'll have options on which tile to discard to declare riichi.
With all that out of the way, we can finally talk about actually going out. There are two ways to go out: "ron" and "tsumo".
"Ron" is stealing someone else's discarded tile to complete your hand. In the case of ron, you can steal from anyone, even if that steal was used to complete a run. You'll use their tile to complete your hand and all the points you win will be taken directly from them.
"Tsumo" is getting a winning tile by drawing it. You'll complete your hand and the points you win will be taken equally from your opponents.
Once you go out, the round is over and your score will be tallied based on your hand. I don't plan on putting all the hands in this guide: it's just too much. Use my tips above to make your best hand possible early on in your mahjong career, and once you get more comfortable, then you can start playing around with getting more interesting and higher scoring hands.
Once a hand is completed and tallied, the next hand will begin. The seat winds will rotate counter-clockwise, making the person who ends up as East the new dealer. This will continue until all four players have been the dealer, after which a quarter of the game will be over and the prevailing wind will change.
In the case of playing Mahjong in a Yakuza game, playing what this game calls a "half game" (in reality a quarter), will see the game over after a full round with East as the prevailing wind. If you play a "full game" (in reality a half), the game will go through all of East and then a round of South as the prevailing wind, and then it will be over.
There are two circumstances where the winds do not rotate. If a draw occurs, the winds do not rotate. Also, if the dealer (at East) wins, the winds do not rotate. This causes an extra hand to happen with the same winds until someone who is not the dealer wins.
Once all the alotted rounds are completed, the game ends. The final scores are shown, and the "uma" bonuses are applied. Depending on what place you're in, you'll have points either added to or subtracted from your total. You can ask the guy at the counter what the bonus point distribution is.
Your final score is than converted into yen, and either given to you or taken away from you (yes, you can lose more yen). If playing on the Easy table, you get half a yen for every point you get. If playing on Medium, you get one yen per point. If playing on Hard, you get two yen per point.
Dangerous NOTE: One would expect that you get 2 yen for every point you get on the Hard table. This is NOT the case. Through some programming oversight, you only get 1 yen for every point, both on Medium and Hard. This will make Hard pretty lousy for grinding money since the only way you'll make a profit on it is if you're in first place, and even then not all that much. I suggest only playing on Hard until you win once for the Award and then sticking to Medium.
And here I've made a quick list to go through while you play of hints to keep in mind:
- Look for pairs and two-tile runs in your dealt hand. Set up the melds early and often.
- Note the Dora, your wind, and the prevailing wind. They'll be worth points if you focus on them.
- If your hand seems garbage, go for something funky, like Seven Pairs or Thirteen Orphans.
- Watch the discards. If you have two of something in your hand and a third has been discarded, you have that much less chance of getting the fourth.
- Pon, Chi, or Kan only if necessary to make a high scoring hand or block someone winning.
- Don't be afraid to change your strategy. If you see a lot of discards of a particular type, abandon going in that direction and try to get different melds. You might be surprised.
- Riichi if you can. Maybe tap Square every so often to see if you can declare it.
- Watch what hasn't been discarded. Someone's probably waiting for one of your tiles to go out. It's a high level way to play, but as hands become more obvious to you, it'll be in your interest to watch.
- If there are about twenty tiles left to draw and your luck's not looking good, try to at least get "one away" from winning (or "tenpai"), even if means you'll have to steal to get it. If a draw occurs, anyone in tenpai will get a split of 3000 points as consolation, taken from those who were not in tenpai.
- Sometimes you just lose and there's very little you can do about it. That's life and luck. Shake it off and move on to the next hand.
What I've put up here isn't exhausive, by any means. Here are some other resources:
A video guide that I found very helpful initially, by HanaYoriUta of Revolutionary Productions. Check it out:
The GameFAQs user barticle's guide to mahjong as specific to the Yakuza series: http://yakuza.wikia.com/wiki/Barticle's_Introduction_to_Japanese_Mahjong
For the most part, playing is about walking up to the tables and anteing up, but there are also tournaments at both locations. Speak to the guy at the counter and he'll give you the rules for entering the tournament:
You must have won at least once at the current location. You must have accrued 12 "points". You get 2 points for every complete game on the easier table, and 4 points for every complete game on the harder table. You must then pony up the entrance fee. This is 50,000 yen at Lullaby and 100,000 yen at Riichi. If you satisfy all those conditions, you'll be able to enter the tournament. Winning the tournament nets you a cash prize of 200,000 at Lullaby and 400,000 at Riichi.
If you lose the tournament, you can try again as long as you can pay the entry fee again. If you win the tournament, your "entry" progress will reset and you'll have to satisfy all those conditions again to re-enter. This prevents you from farming Mahjong for a lot of quick cash, I guess.
The cheat item for Mahjong is the Peerless Tile, which is found in a couple of locations as a Hidden Item and also you get from a substory. You'll be asked if you want to use it at the beginning of a match. Do so, and you'll be dealt the Thirteen Orphans, and will draw a tile to make a pair and complete it. Declare Tsumo and you'll get a Heavenly Hand (dealt a winning hand) and Pure Thirteen Orphans (had all thirteen in your hand, draw the pair-maker). This is a Triple Yakuman, which gives you all the points ever and will end the game immediately.
So, to that end, the question therefore becomes when to use the three Peerless Tiles available. There is a substory that requires you to win a mahjong game at a serious disadvantage, which is massively tough without using this, so that's my first suggestion. For the other two, consider using them on the tournaments for each city. The tournaments are against tough opponents, so it might be worth your while to just bypass that if you're looking to register them as complete. Also, winning on the Hard table may be difficult without cheating, but I leave the final decision up to you.