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FAQ/Walkthrough by KurasuSoratobu

Version: 3.0 | Updated: 02/02/12

MONSTER RANCHER 2: Walkthrough And FAQ
Written by Kurasu Soratobu (kurasufaqs@gmail.com)
Present version: 3.0

Copyright info
Why the Walkthrough/FAQ

  A2............... Stats
  A3............... Unlocking Monsters
  A4............... Monster Types
  A5............... Monster List
  A6............... Rare Monsters
  A7............... Items
  B1............... Controls
  B2............... Starting Out
  B3............... Market
  B4............... Shrine
  B5............... Lab
  B6............... File
  B7............... Ranch
  B8............... Monster
  B9............... Trainer
  B10.............. Card
  B11.............. Your Farm
  B12.............. Training
  B13.............. Rest
  B14.............. Battle
  B15.............. Item
  B16.............. File/Town
  B17.............. Barn/House
  B18.............. Expeditions
  B19.............. Combining
  C1............... Torles
  C2............... Parepare
  C3............... Kawrea

  D1............... Controls
  D2............... Movelists
  D3............... Tech Chains
  D4............... Battle Specials
  D5............... Battle Calendar 
  E1............... The Poor Man's Method
  E2............... The Moneymaker
  E3............... The Breeder
  E4............... The Market Monster
  F1 .............. The Monsters
  F2............... Zuum: Basic Concept
  F3............... Zuum: The Feeding
  F4............... Zuum: The Workout
  F5............... Zuum: Jumping Levels
  F6............... Zuum: Second Lifestage
  F7............... Zuum: Exacting the Stats
  F8............... Zuum: Moneymaking
  F9............... Arrowhead: Basic Concept
  F10.............. Arrowhead: The Feeding
  F11.............. Arrowhead: The Workout
  F12.............. Arrowhead: Battles?
  F13.............. Arrowhead: Prime
  F14.............. Arrowhead: Finishing Up
  F15.............. The Breeding
  F16.............. Crabsaurian: Basic Concept
  F17.............. Crabsaurian: The Feeding
  F18.............. Crabsaurian: The Workout
  F19.............. Crabsaurian: Battles
  F20.............. Crabsaurian: Errantries
  F21.............. Crabsaurian: Prime
  F22.............. The Big 4
  F23.............. Step By Step: Final Thoughts

In Closing
Update Info
Still To Come
Thanks To...

Monster Rancher: Walkthrough and FAQ, copyright 2006-2012 Kurasu Soratobu. This
file may not be published in part, or without this Copyright, without explicit
permission from the author. Monster Rancher and all the monster names are
rights of Tecmo. Monster Rancher Metropolis and its information are Copyright
Lisa Shock and Monster Rancher Metropolis. 

If someone wants to post this walkthrough to their site, please get in touch
with me at kurasufaqs@gmail.com and ask. I am more than happy to let people
post this elsewhere, so long as I (and MRM) can get the full credit for it,
and can be aware of where it's going for my own personal knowledge. Make
certain the words 'Monster Rancher', 'Walkthrough', or 'FAQ' appear in the
title so I recognize it as other-than-junk. 

Any corrections, additions, suggestions, and whatever can be sent to
kurasufaqs@gmail.com. If you are wanting to speak with me directly, then
depending on which IM service you use I am AIM: KurasuSoratobu, MSN:
Kurasu@hotmail.com, Yahoo: kurasu, and @KurasuSoratobu on Twitter. I can't
promise I'll be uber-chatty, though I'm always willing to answer questions!

The original Monster Rancher, known as Monster Farm in Japan, was an
innovative game created by Tecmo where the idea was to raise monsters on a
ranch. To get these monsters, almost any CD (data CD, game CD, or music CD,
though the game couldn't read DVD format) could be put into your Playstation
and, by reading the data on the disk, a monster would be created for you to
raise. Simple enough, no? Well, not exactly. You, as the breeder, had to
decide what to feed your monster, what sort of training to put it in, when
it can go on errantries (essentially a four week training camp), and when to
finally put it through fights in order to raise its rank. As the trainer, you
also had the chance to go on expeditions and enter specific tournaments in
order to open up new and hidden monsters. And once your monsters had finally
lived a long and productive life, they could be frozen away in order to
combine with one another, creating stronger and stronger monsters with which
to continue the legacy. Eventually, the idea was to get your monsters to
become the next champion of the arena. 

In the second game, Monster Rancher 2, they went and did it again; the game
has the same sort of idea as Monster Rancher 1, but with more of everything.
More monsters, more foods, more battles, more secrets. This has thrown this
game into the level of a cult classic, giving people a great amount of
entertainment for the money value. The replay value is infinite; there are
simply too many things to strive toward in this game. Certainly the basic idea
is to get a monster to the Big 4, but there are so many other goals that you
can reach for. Unlock all the rares. Try to completely max a monster out. See
if you can get all the monster cards. Master combinations. Or just make a run
on the final battles again and again and again. 

As mentioned above, this game has an enormous amount of detail in it and
wicked replay value because of it. All in all, IMO, this game is a great
improvement on the original game and is easily one of my favorite games of all
time on any platform. Certainly my favorite of all the Monster Rancher games
by landslide. However, there is scant little information on GameFAQs about how
to go about all this raising, unlocking, exploring, and other such things. Add
to that the fact that increasing the playability also increased the complexity
by several degrees, and it's obvious that a good info FAQ on how to get into
the game, both getting started and going the distance, is necessary. 

The rest of this FAQ contains a great many spoilers in how to unlock monsters,
which monsters can be created, and the various secrets that show up. If you
want to discover these things for yourself, I suggest avoiding the areas of
'Unlocking Monsters' and the various monster lists. Skim directly down to the
sections for how to raise monsters, how items work, or the like. Otherwise,
you have been warned; this Walkthrough/FAQ is not spoiler-free.


This is a list of all the characters who show up in Monster Rancher. 

Colt: Although her full name is 'Coltia', most of the game refers to this
tomboyish girl as 'Colt'. According to her trainer's certificate, she's IMa
Trainer Assistant 10114, native to Galoe, passed her exam on 03/24/1000 with a
score of 92/100, and tends to be a little bit hasty. Not that any of this is
really important, but it's detail about the character. Colt is the individual
who works with you on your farm from the beginning of the game to the... well,
since there is no end, I'll just have to say until you get tired of it. She's
the one who will let you know when your monster is tired or stressed, give you
hints about what you should be doing, lead your monster out on the expeditions
with you, interact with the other NPCs, and the like. In other words, she's
pretty much the most visible part of your farm, aside from the monster itself.

Joy: Joy is the toucan who helps you run your farm. Joy helps feed your
monsters and give them items, as well as quacking (yes, apparently toucans in
this game go 'quack') out the warnings of monsters attacking and alerting you
to the fact that your monster has found something to give to you.

Wyola: Wyola is the owner of the market. It's to her that you go to 'buy'
(though it takes no money to get them) the basic set of monsters, or to sell
your raised monster. She and Colt seem to get along rather well.

Chaille: Chaille is a priestess at the Monster Shrine in town. She's the one
who helps you get your monsters off CDs and Memory cards. She seems to be a
mellow sort, but she and Colt are on good terms from the look of things.

Dadge: He's the one who runs the lab, where you bring your monsters to be
frozen or combined. Dadge helps you with information on the monsters, telling
you how good he thinks a combination would be, and judging their battle
specials. For some reason, Colt acts rather nervous around him, calling him
'sir' and stammering. Personally, I don't think he's scary-looking. Maybe it's
a crush?

Master Pabs: Pabs is one of IMa's greatest trainers, and a friend and help to
you. He's the one who brings along many of the special invitationals
(particularly to the FIMBA vs IMa and the Master Cup), as well as explaining
the situation on a couple of the locked monsters. 

The Mailman: He doesn't get a name; this man just pops in now and again to
deliver the mail to you. He's the one who brings you invitations, flyers for
sales, and information on cheap errantries. 

Errow: The man who keeps track of the errantries. When you first have to deal
with him in the beginning of the game, he's quite rude and snappish. However,
the further you progress, the better he gets, until by the time you've gotten
to S-class, he's quite the gentleman, even calling you miss or mister. What a

Auntie Verde: While this woman isn't mentioned by name in the US game for the
most part, she's referred to as 'Auntie' by Colt. Therefore, that's the name I
tend to refer to her as. She is the one who runs the shop, buying and selling
various items. She'll also give you the item to gain one of the locked
monsters at some point, and she'll give you information for another one. A
very important and helpful woman, she is!

Kavaro: Kavaro is the man who's going out searching for treasure in the
Parepare Jungle. He'll ask you if your monster can come along every year, as
long as your monster's got the stats for it. Colt is obviously not fond of him
at all. 

Rovest: Another adventurer: Rovest takes you to the cold mountains of Torles.
Colt shows enthusiasm when Rovest comes a'calling for the most part.

Dr. Talico: The adventurer that Colt is the most fond of, Dr. Talico takes you
for your expeditions in the volcano at Kawrea. 

Binto: This builder is the man who occasionally comes by and offers to help
you with the rebuilding of your barn and house. Friendly enough, though his
work is expensive and he makes this mysterious request (or demand, actually)
for people to stay elsewhere when he's creating his new building. His work
only takes a single night, as well. I wonder what he could be hiding...

Holly: FIMBA's primary trainer, and a character from Monster Rancher 1 (there
she was your training assistant). She'll show up in the IMa vs. FIMBA battles,
as well as an additional area. She and Colt get along quite well, but there's
obviously a rivalry between them. A friendly rivalry, but a rivalry

Each of the monsters raised has a series of six 'stats'. These are Life,
Power, Intelligence, Skill, Speed, and Defense. For the most part, the names
of the stats are self-evident. However, there are a few things these stats do
for you aside from the obvious. Here, then, is what each of the stats on your
monster means:

LIFE: This is, plain and simple, your monster's life total. The number of
points you have in this stat is the number of hit points your monster has. So
a 60 base Life pixie only has 60 HP, while that 300 base Mock has 300. Life
also has an important effect in your monster's expeditions. Depending on the
'level' of Life (as opposed to the exact number), you will have fewer or more
points with which to search the area that your monster wanders in. Considering
it costs 1 point each time you take a step, 5 to break a barrier, and 10 for
each time you search a building, that can add up fairly quickly. Also, there
are specific levels of Life that you need to have before the expedition folks
will take you along. The totals needed are mentioned in the 'Expeditions'

POWER: This is the stat which gives you the damage for your Power-based hits.
These attacks show up on your screen in brown. The progression isn't one for
one as it is with Life, but every little bit helps! In addition, Power helps
with your defense against Power-based attacks. Power is also used in
expeditions: when you come across a barrier in your way, Power is what is used
to destroy said barrier and let you continue on your way.

INTELLIGENCE: This is the polar opposite of Power: Intelligence both raises
the damage of Intelligence-based attacks (those that are in green on your
attack bar) and helps with your defense against those same attacks. In
addition, when on an expedition, Intelligence helps your monster with their
searching. It is probably the most valuable expedition stat, in fact. The
higher your Intelligence is, the more accurately your monster will find the
items, the less chance it will have of getting lost on the trip, and the
better objects it will find. While high Life might be necessary to be able to
get everywhere, high Intelligence is what is needed to ensure the best chance
at Good Stuff.

SKILL: The ability of 'Skill' makes it more likely that you will hit an enemy.
The higher your Skill, the better hit percentage you will have. Obviously this
is very valuable for monsters who don't have high hit techs to begin with!
There has also been some small evidence that high Skill may help with
expeditions, but with a lack of data available, I just add it here as a

SPEED: Speed is your monster's chance to dodge. The higher your Speed, the
harder it is for the opponent to actually hit you. Simple, direct, to the
point; there's nothing else, as far as I know, that Speed helps with.

DEFENSE: The monster's Defence is just what it sounds like: their overall
ability to take a hit. This works for both Power and Intelligence attacks,
with the appropriate stat (Power or Intelligence) giving bonuses to it for
those specific types of attack. 

Occasionally, when you go to retrieve a monster from a CD, the game will state
'I regret to tell you that... this rare monster can be reproduced only by an
authorized IMa trainer. Please come again...'. So, you'll ask, what level do
you have to get to to be able to get to be authorized?

The short answer is: None; that's not the part that matters.

The long answer is: Although the game terms it as being 'an authorized
trainer', the authorization has nothing to do with your trainer level or with
anything like that (although you do have to be at certain levels to be able to
unlock certain 'triggers'). Rather, monsters have various ways of being
unlocked. Some of them might need a specific combining item. Some might only
need a specific occurrence in the game. Some might need a specific enemy to be
defeated in order to open them up. And some of them need more than one of the
above, making them quite the multi-step challenge. Once a monster has been
created, though, it can always be gotten from CDs, so don't worry about trying
to hunt another combining item; most of them only have one. If the item is one
that you can sell or drop, then there are multiples of it. Otherwise, you
won't be able to get rid of it until you use it (or unless it's the strong
glue; see 'Ducken')

Here is the list of all the monster types and what it takes to unlock them in
the game. Remember: some of these have to be done only at a specific point in
the game. 

APE: Available from the beginning.

ARROWHEAD: Available from the beginning.

BAKU: Your barn must be at size level 2. See 'Barn/House' in the Walkthrough
section for information on this. Once this has been done, you can regen them
from CDs.

BAJARL: You must be at 8th rank (in other words, beat any two of the Big 4).
Make certain that you have upgraded your barn and house every chance you've
had. Eventually, when you have the cash, Binto will come to upgrade your house
(see 'Barn/House' for information on this) the final time. When this has been
done, you will be given the Bajarl Pot. Use this pot in a combination to
create Bajarl.

BEACLON: This is one of the best-hidden monsters of the game, and the one most
likely to go unfound by most people, as there are absolutely *no clues* for it
in the game (aside from a very vague one on the card for Pink Worm: It may
emerge as a beautiful monster once in a long while). First, get a worm of any
type (in other words, a worm/<anything> will work, including the special
worms). Raise it to at least 4 years old, with a class of NO *HIGHER* than C
(it has to be E, D, or C). Make certain that it is fed at least 30 cup jellies
throughout its lifespan. It must never be stressed or spoiled, have at least
80 loyalty, and must be 'very well' with absolutely no stress on the fourth
week of June after that important 4 year mark. On that day, it will cocoon
itself and the cocoon *may* hatch into a Beaclon. If it doesn't, the cocoon
will hatch out as a random <type>/worm. If the latter happens, then you will
need to try again with a different worm; unless you're saved back far enough
to fix the 'problem' that occurred, no amount of resetting will get it to turn
into a Beaclon. Remember: the cup jellies *are* important. If you don't feed
them to the worm, it can't cocoon into anything but a <monster>/worm. The
jellies are a must for it to become a Beaclon.
The list of other monsters that can be created this way include Monol/Worm,
Gali/Worm, Naga/Worm, Suezo/Worm, Pixie/Worm, Jell/Worm, and Hare/Worm.
NOTE: The Beaclon (or other monster, for that matter) that is created this way
will still raise in stats as though it were a worm for the rest of its
lifespan, but it can be used in combining to create a 'proper' Beaclon. In
addition, any moves the worm has will transform into Beaclon-specific (or
other-creature-specific) moves when it hatches; be sure to get your worm a few
moves if you can keep it from getting stressed in that time.

CENTAUR: You must be at least 4th rank. Have a B-class monster of any type go
to the Mandy Desert errantry between the months of March and August. Randomly,
it will find a spear there. When that occurs, the rest of the happenings will
be automatic; when it gets back to the ranch, it will be attacked by a
centaur. Whether it wins or loses this battle, the spear will remain behind.
Use it in combining to get a centaur. In addition, this opens up Sniper as a
monster that you can fight in the Mandy Desert errantry.

COLORPANDORA: Available from the beginning.

DRAGON: You must be at least 6th rank. Raise any monster to B-class. On the
second week of August, it will be invited to a battle known as the Dragon Tusk
Tournament. Beat the dragon in this tournament and you will receive the tusk
as a prize. Use this to combine with and you will gain a dragon. In addition,
if you don't wish to use the tusk, it can be sold for a considerable amount of
money: 3000G to be exact. This can be won multiple times.
NOTE: The dragon is a fairly dangerous opponent for B-rank. Be ready for it. 

DUCKEN: Occasionally on feeding your monster a cup jelly, a diamond mark will
be found underneath the lid. Once you have gotten five of these, you will be
given a Ducken doll. This doll, you can either give to your monster, or keep
for yourself and sell it later (it does absolutely nothing aside from spoiling
your monster some when given to it). Once you have achieved your first doll,
take an expedition to the Torles mountain. Go directly toward the north until
you can go no further, then east and search among the trees. Eventually
(whether in that trip or a later one), you will find an object called 'strong
glue'. Once you have this, create another Ducken doll (again, get five diamond
marks from the cup jellies) and use the glue to make it. This doll should be
used in combining to get a Ducken. 
NOTE: Once this has been done, the strong glue will be forever in your
inventory, letting you create as many dolls as you want. However, there is
absolutely no way to get rid of it, outside of a Gameshark. I can't help but
wonder if this is a bug, and if it should have gone immediately after using it
the first time.

DURAHAN: In the Parepare expedition, travel east, north (either through the
obstacle or around it on the path), continue north past the next intersection,
west at the one after, follow the path as far south as you can go, ignoring
turns until you can't go south any more, west toward the wall (ignore the
hidden pathway for now if you find it), then north into a temple-like building
behind a giant pumpkin. In here, you may find the Old Sheath. Once you have
it, talk to the item lady. She will bring up stolen swords. After this, get a
monster to A-Class. It will be invited, on the 1st of February, to the Double
Edged tournament in the 4th week of February. Win the tournament and use the
sword in combining, and you'll get the Durahan. Like the tusk, this creature
can be fought more than once and the item sold for money.

GABOO: Available from the beginning.

GALI: Get a monster to D-class or above. It will, at some point, be invited to
a battle called 'Elimination' on the 4th week of June. Win this tournament,
and you'll get to be able to fight in the IMa vs FIMBA tournament. Whether you
win or not, four monsters will be opened up for you to get off CD: Gali, Mew,
Worm, and Henger.

GHOST: First, allow a monster to die, either from old age or being killed in a
tournament. Build a shrine for it, though it will cost money. Every so often,
you will be asked to upgrade it. Do so if you have the cash to spare; you'll
need to do it twice. Then, at some other point, Colt will get in trouble for
not keeping it clean. When you go to clean it, you will find a stick. This
stick can be used in combining to make a ghost.

GOLEM: Your barn must be at size level 2. See 'Barn/House' for information on
this. Once this has been done, you can create them from CDs.

HARE: Available from the beginning.

HENGER: See 'Gali'. 

HOPPER: Available from the beginning.

JILL: You must be 6th rank or above. Take a trip to Torles and find the Big
Footstep; it is in the statue at the far northeast corner of the map. There
are several ways to get there if the secret pathways can be found, but if your
Intelligence isn't high enough to find them, there's only one path and it's a
*long* one: go west until you can't go any further, then go north. Follow the
path the entire way (there's a hidden pathway about mid-way, but if you can't
find it, it'll be a long trip) until you reach a north-east split. Go east
here. Then go north at the next split. Continue north until you can't go
further, take the east turn until you find the split (with the obstacle
blocking the way), turn north rather than breaking the obstacle, then follow
the path to its end (smashing through one and perhaps two obstacles) and
you'll be at the statue. Once you have found the footstep, send a B-class or
higher monster (higher is *HIGHLY* suggested) to the Torles errantry. You
should get a warning about a monster there. Randomly, you will get the chance
to fight a creature known as Bighands. If you are defeated by him, he will
reappear again at some point. Once you defeat him, your monster will return
with an item called 'Big Boots'. Use these in combination and you will get
your own Jill. In addition, this permanently unlocks Bighands as the S-class
enemy in Torles, though you can only ever receive one pair of boots.

JELL: Available from the beginning.

JOKER: Be at 4th rank or higher. Send a monster on the Kawrea expedition. Have
it go to the Burnt Altar; go directly east until you can go no further, then
north to follow the path, east at the next crossway, and west at the one after
that (breaking the object to do so). Follow the path until you come to a
four-way. Here, break the obstacle to the north and walk that way, following
the path to the north, then east. At the end of this long path is the burnt
altar. The mask will be here, though it is notoriously hard to find, so don't
be disappointed if you don't get it right away. You may need a few tries. Once
you have the mask, though, use it in combining to create a Joker.

KATO: Available from the beginning.

METALNER: You must be 8th rank or above, and have the second stable upgrade
(see 'Barn/House' for information). Sometime in September, on a clear night,
you will be visited by aliens. They will visit twice more, usually one week
after the other, so long as the nights are clear. On the third week, they will
give you a crystal. Take this to the shrine, where it will disappear. Once
this has happened, you can now get Metalners off disks. 

MEW: See 'Gali'. 

MOCCHI: Available from the beginning.

MOCK: You must be at 4th rank before the final item is available in the shop.
Go to the store often while at this level whether you buy something or not (it
won't show up on sale days), and eventually the item lady will give you some
seeds that she's gotten. These will be planted and a tree will grow. After
this, you will occasionally get messages about the tree. About 10 years later,
the tree will die. After this, have a monster die (either from old age or from
being killed), and the tree will come to life and turn into a Mock.
NOTE: Make *certain* not to go above this rank until you have achieved the
seeds, and make certain to get to this rank before the seeds appear. Due to a
bug, it is possible to miss the seeds. And if the seeds are missed, they won't
ever appear, locking Mock to you forever. 

MONOL: Available from the beginning.

NAGA: Available from the beginning.

NITON: Once the hot springs have been dug, you can create Nitons off CDs. See
'Undine' for information about how to get the hot springs.

PHOENIX: When you take the first trip to the Kawrea volcano, a phoenix feather
can be found in the cave. If you cannot find the feather at this point, then
it can later be found at the Phoenix Statue. To find this, go all the way
east, then follow the path until you reach a fork. Go west at the fork, then
north at the next fork (in other words, don't break the obstacle; turn north
instead). Follow the path to the next fork and turn north, smashing through
one obstacle and turning west away from the second. Continue west, breaking
the next obstacle, then continue following the path; it will lead directly to
the statue. In other words, it behooves you to find it early, as it's *much*
quicker and easier. This feather can be used in combining to create a Phoenix.

PIXIE: Available from the beginning.

PLANT: Available from the beginning.

SUEZO: Available from the beginning.

TIGER: Available from the beginning.

UNDINE: You must be 4th rank or higher. Raise a Hopper of any type at all
(including a Frog Hopper) to B-class. Sometime in the winter (December,
January, or February) the Hopper will dig up a hot spring. You will then
receive the undine slate. This slate can be used in combining to make an
NOTE: There is some randomness to this happening. There's a possibility that
the Hopper will go all winter without digging it up. If this happens, simply
keep it around until the next winter, or try again with a different Hopper if
it doesn't survive another year.

WORM: See 'Gali'.

WRACKY: You must be at least 7th rank and get a monster with high fame. You
will receive a doll in the mail. Keep it when Colt asks about whether she
should throw it out or not (of course, even if you do throw it out, it'll
creepily return, and it's fun to watch Colt's face when that happens). Have a
monster die (whether from old age or injury) and the doll will come to life as
a Wracky. 

ZILLA: Dig up the hot spring (see 'Undine' for information on that). You must
then be at 6th rank or above, and send a B-class monster or higher (higher is
*HIGHLY* suggested) to the Skill errantry. There will be a warning for a large
water monster. After you have had this warning, there will be a random chance
to fight a creature called Zilla King. If you can defeat him, you will gain an
item called 'Zilla Beard'. Use this in combination and you will have a Zilla
of your own. He will continue to return even if you're beaten by him, so don't
worry that you've missed the chance if you lose. In addition, this will
permanently unlock Zilla King as an S-class enemy in this errantry, though you
will never again receive the beard.

ZUUM: Available at the beginning.

Each of the 38 individual monster types have their own advantages and
disadvantages in more than just how cool they look. Stats that go up at
different rates, faster or slower guts regen, long or short lifespan, varying
move lists, and even a few of them which are needed in order to unlock other

NAME: <--- The monster's name, of course.
STATS: <--- The monster's 'baseline' stats. In other words, the stats that it
will have before any random adds from the CD or breeding pluses are added.
They're listed in Lif/Pow/Int/Ski/Spd/Def order.
GAINS: <--- The numbers that the monster gains in statistics. Consider this to
be a scale: 1 is the worst gain, while 5 is the best. This is in the same
order as stats: Lif/Pow/Int/Ski/Spd/Def. 
GOOD STATS: <--- The stats that they get good gains in. Note that this will
not necessarily be the same as the baseline stats. This is purely gains; not
base number.
BAD STATS: <--- The stats they are particularly poor at gaining. Same as 'good
stats', this is only what they're poor in gaining.
BONUSES: <--- A few creatures get a bonus +1 in specific errantries or
training. Others are better at being good/bad, or more popular in general.
Here's where they're listed.
SPECIALS: <--- Various special 'combat abilities' that they get because of
their breed in battle. This isn't the same as 'power' or 'anger'; these are
only for breed-based skills. I may be missing many of these or incorrect on a
few; if you can find one that is directly the result of a creature, as opposed
to the result of good/bad (power/anger) or disk chips (see 'Items'), let me
LIFESPAN: <--- This is the maximum lifespan, if not a single week is lost to
any reason (pretty much impossible to do unless the monster is rested its
whole life, but it gives a feel for how long the creature lives in comparison
to others). Listed in 'weeks (equivalent years)'. For a more reasonable feel
of how long they'll live in the average style, assume this time to be halved
(as the game says: 'three or four years' is average). Don't worry; the more
skilled you get in training, the closer you'll be able to get that number to
its maximum. 
ADVANTAGES: <--- Advantages the creature has over other monsters.
DISADVANTAGES: <--- Disadvantages the monster has against other monsters.
DESCRIPTION: <--- Both a physical description and a general description of the
creature itself.

STATS: 150/160/20/120/100/140
GAINS: 4/4/1/3/3/4
GOOD STATS: Life, Power, Defense
BAD STATS: Intelligence
BONUSES: +1 Parepare (Intelligence/Withering Errantry)
LIFESPAN: 500wk (10y 5m)
ADVANTAGES: High-damage and good-hitting moves even in the beginning, quite
defensive, good gains in three separate stats, almost no tech chains
DISADVANTAGES: Very slow guts regeneration, abysmal Intelligence, many
Intelligence moves despite horrible Intelligence, naturally ill-tempered
DESCRIPTION: Apes look exactly what their name makes you think they'd look
like: an ape. Or rather, a cross between a gorilla and a baboon. They are a
difficult creature to raise because of naturally 'sour' dispositions, but
their many hard-hitting and yet still high-hit-rating attacks make them worth
the attempt. As mentioned above, they have absolutely abysmal Intelligence and
a great many Intelligence attacks, so they're a challenge for a lower-level
trainer to raise. However, these attacks are humorous enough to make it
worthwhile, including such things as nose-picking and farting. Also, most of
their moves have at least some withering to them, even if it's not very good
withering, so even if they aren't doing good damage they're still picking away
at the enemy's guts. These creatures tend to work best as a hard-hitting
machine in combat, however, taking advantage of their hard hits and excellent
defensive stats to smack their opponents down. Plus, since their Skill is
average instead of low, they can become better hitters than most 'heavy damage

NAME: Arrowhead
STATS: 120/80/70/30/40/170
GAINS: 3/3/2/3/2/5
BAD STATS: Intelligence, Speed
LIFESPAN: 500wk (10y 5m)
ADVANTAGES: Excellent Defence, very few tech chains
DISADVANTAGES: Slow guts regen, fairly low starting stats except for Defence
DESCRIPTION: Arrowheads look a lot like a lobster, including a pair of
pinchers and six spindly spider-like legs. The main difference is that their
tail is capped by a stinger of sorts, rather than curled under like a lobster
tail. In the beginning, they can be fairly fussy creatures, cheating and
failing a lot, though once you've got them into a more tight regime, they're
not too hard to raise, making them a fairly good starting monster and a pretty
good choice for the market. They are not abysmally low at anything, though
they're cramped in Intelligence and Speed, making them natural for their job
as 'tank'. They are good for attacking the enemy with a multitude of quick
attacks, letting the Defence hold off attempts at turning it back on them. In
addition, they have a good lifespan, so there's all the more time to work on
getting those stats up to where you'd like them to be. And without any
particular 'leaning' toward hit-type in their moves, it's best to make certain
that they have the Power (or Intelligence) to pull off the damage where needed
and the Skill to hit. 

NAME: Bajarl
STATS: 100/130/90/120/110/80
GAINS: 3/4/2/4/3/2
GOOD STATS: Power, Skill
BAD STATS: Defense, Intelligence
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Naturally very cheap and high-hit moves, one of the only monsters
with guts-draining attacks ('drain' meaning taking the guts and applying them
to its own), the only monster with an attack that drains both guts *and*
DISADVANTAGES: Almost no techs in the first range making it easy to have an
'empty range', a number of chained techs, most techs in the second range only
DESCRIPTION: Bajarls are one of the smallest monster in the game, size-wise.
They look like tiny little genies inside a pot. For something so small,
however, they're no slouch in damage; they have excellent Power ratings. While
they do have a few moves that require Intelligence (alas, most of the drains),
they're rare enough that it's easy enough to mostly ignore Intelligence and
focus on Power. Unfortunately, as mentioned above, most of their attacks are
in the second range, forcing them to get fairly close to the enemy to be able
to attack them. This often brings them into range of high-hitting techs. So
make certain that you don't skimp on the Life; they might well need it.
However, they have a lot of bang for your buck; these creatures might be
challenging to raise, but they're worth it if you can get their hard-hitting

NAME: Baku
STATS: 180/130/50/70/60/150
GAINS: 5/4/1/2/1/3
GOOD STATS: Life, Power
BAD STATS: Intelligence, Skill, Speed
BONUSES: +50% weight (easier to make fat)
LIFESPAN: 500wk (10y 5m)
ADVANTAGES: Excellent Life, very defensive (and even moreso with the help of
DISADVANTAGES: Fairly slow guts regen, poor gains in three areas, abysmal
Speed and Intelligence
DESCRIPTION: Baku resemble a large dog-like creature with floppy ears.
Visually, they're actually quite cute, and many of the various Baku breeds
are extremely attractive (and unusual-looking) creatures. While they're
nothing like fast, their other defensive abilities are pretty hefty, and with
the addition of making them 'fat' more easily, they can be even more
successful in fights, taking only a pittance in damage while stomping and
grinding their opponent into the ground. Their moves don't lean toward any one
trait the way some monsters' moves do, making them basic, well-rounded

NAME: Beaclon
STATS: 120/150/50/70/90/140
GAINS: 4/4/1/2/2/4
GOOD STATS: Life, Power, Defense
BAD STATS: Intelligence, Speed, Skill
BONUSES: +1 on pull drills
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Good gains in three separate stats, +1 in Power drill makes
strength even easier to get, many really high-damage attacks
DISADVANTAGES: Bad gains in three separate stats, abysmal Intelligence, fairly
slow guts regen, an enormous pain to unlock
DESCRIPTION: Beaclons are gigantic beetles, looking much like rhinoceros
beetles with their bulky shell and their huge nose-horns.  One of the hardest
monsters for most people to get, Beaclons are virtual powerhouses, big and
powerful and heavy-hitting creatures that were never made for subtlety in any
way, shape, or form. Even most of their moves were made for heavy-hitting.
They get really good Power gains, the +1 in the 'pull' drill making it even
more effective for them. When in battle, use their Power and Defence in the
same way you would almost any basic 'tank' monster: let the enemy hit them
ineffectually while you hit the enemy with *much* greater effect. You'll
outlast them by a lot. Just beware those monsters with either heavy withering
or high guts regen. You're built to be delivering a few hard hits; not a lot
of quick ones.

NAME: Centaur
STATS: 90/100/140/160/150/80
GAINS: 3/3/4/5/2/2
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Skill
BAD STATS: Speed, Defense
BONUSES: +1 Mandy (Power/Heavy Errantry)
SPECIALS: Grit, Will
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Two battle specials right off the bat, incredible Skill, very
accurate moves even in the very beginning 
DISADVANTAGES: Rather fragile, good Intelligence but only a few Intelligence
DESCRIPTION: Centaurs look... well... remotely like what you'd think they
would look like by their names. The do, indeed, have the body of a horse.
However, their upper body is that of a birdlike creature or a lizard, and they
carry a long spear with them. They are creatures who were made for
combo-fighting: with their incredibly high Skill, they can hit with pretty
much anything they throw, and their basic starting techs all have an A-class
hit, making them incredibly accurate even without the help of a high Skill.
With average gains in Power, you'll need to work a little to get them into a
fighting-fit state, but it's worth the time to do it. Centaurs' one real
weakness is a lack of good defensive stats. You'll need to keep their Life
high and focus on killing their opponents before they can strike back.

NAME: ColorPandora
STATS: 170/50/30/100/110/60
GAINS: 5/2/2/3/3/1
BAD STATS: Intelligence, Power, Defense
BONUSES: +50% spoil effect (easier to make spoiled)
LIFESPAN: 500wk (10y 5m)
ADVANTAGES: Fairly strong withering attacks, excellent Life, one of the only
monsters with a guts-draining move
DISADVANTAGES: No good attack stats, several low stat gains, abysmal Defence,
fairly low starting stats except for Life
DESCRIPTION: The Colorpandora is one of the oddest looking of the Monster
Rancher 2 monsters. It resembles a trio of little green worms with smiling
faces, all standing in a line, thus resembling a linked caterpillar of sorts.
Strange-looking though they may be, these creatures are actually a fairly easy
monster to raise even with the very low statistics to start. They've got good
natures for the most part, which is always helpful in a raising style, and as
long as you don't treat them too roughly, their advantage in spoil will keep
the style from getting too harsh even if you have to punish them. Just don't
let them get too spoiled; that's detrimental as well, even if they often live
longer. Their slow gains in the attack stats are countered by having fairly
good withering and speed of attacks, letting them act the part of the 'combo
king' fairly well. Their Defence is very low, though; make sure you counter it
with their massive Life gains. 

NAME: Dragon
STATS: 100/170/160/120/90/110
GAINS: 3/5/5/3/2/3
GOOD STATS: Power, Intelligence
LIFESPAN: 350wk (7y 3m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Humongous gains in both attack abilities, no real stat weaknesses
other than somewhat low Speed
DISADVANTAGES: Short lifespan, slowest guts regeneration in the game, a lot of
tech chains
DESCRIPTION: No mistake here: a dragon looks like a dragon. Red scales, big
wings, horns on its head, and fire-breathing. Not only are they great-looking,
but they have excellent stat-gaining ability when it comes to combat. They are
built to be attack monster, with the highest possible gains in both Power and
Intelligence, and all their other stats rounded pretty well out. Because of
this, Dragons are made for fast build, hard hitting, and single-move kills.
However, Dragons can be difficult to raise because of their incredibly short
lifespan in addition to being somewhat willful monsters. Is it worth the pain?
That's for you to decide, of course. But one thing's for sure: in fights,
don't hold back. The slow guts regeneration makes missing deadly, but with the
heavy attacks and immense attack stats you should have, you'll deal enough
damage to destroy your enemy before they can get to you. Just beware of those
annoying withering monsters! 

NAME: Ducken
STATS: 70/80/130/140/100/50
GAINS: 3/3/3/4/5/1
GOOD STATS: Skill, Speed
BAD STATS: Defense
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Incredible Speed, Fast guts regen 
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal Defence
DESCRIPTION: The Ducken is a funny-looking creature. It resembles nothing so
much as a child's wooden stacking toy crossed with a duck. Its egg-shaped body
is made up of three different-colored bands, it has a pair of twiggy legs and
flat wings, and a peggy duck's head on top of it all. The Ducken is a rather
difficult creature to raise in the beginning: they tend to be fussy and
willful. I believe Nate Railsback of Monster Rancher Metropolis put it best
when he said: "DO NOT try to raise a Worst-Natured one. It will be like every
Joker, Pixie, Wracky, and Zilla you've ever had all rolled into one
brightly-colored wad of sheer irritation." Still, keeping patience will get
you one of the fastest creatures in the game. Their Speed makes them a force
to be reckoned with in the battle, though when they do get hit, it tends to
hurt quite a bit; their Defence is extremely low. In battle, they're another
of those quick-hit and whittling away Life by small amounts usually. Dodge the
opponent's attacks with your amazing Speed, then smack them with the attacks
you've got, and let the fast guts regeneration outspeed them. 

NAME: Durahan
STATS: 100/150/80/110/70/180
GAINS: 3/4/3/3/1/5
GOOD STATS: Power, Defense
BONUSES: +1 Domino
LIFESPAN: 500wk (10y 5m)
ADVANTAGES: Incredible Defence, high-damage attacks, +1 in Power-gaining to
make it even more effective. 
DESCRIPTION: Durahan looks like an outfit of animated armor with obvious
spaces to show there is nothing within. As one might expect from a suit of
armor, they are slow as molasses, but defensive as heck. Being fairly
good-natured, they're relatively easy to raise, making them fairly popular
monsters among many people, particularly due to their powerful attacks. In
battle, they're killers; Durahans pretty much tear things apart with raw power
while holding off their opponent's attacks with their Defence. A fairly simple
concept with many of the heavy monsters, but a very effective one.
In addition, their guts regen isn't as slow as a lot of the heavy-hitters,
giving them a slight advantage (though it's not speedy; beware of withering

NAME: Gaboo
STATS: 190/120/30/40/150/70
GAINS: 5/4/1/1/4/1
GOOD STATS: Life, Power, Speed
BAD STATS: Intelligence, Skill, Defense
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Incredible Life, good gains in three areas, good nature, low guts
cost attacks, high Life to start
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal gains in three stats, several low starting numbers
DESCRIPTION: The Gaboo is a simple-looking creature. It's really not much more
than a glob of mud with a big face, and the ability to form two huge arms (and
legs, occasionally). They are some of the highest in stat variation of all the
monsters: what they're good in, they're very, very good. What they're bad in,
they're very, very bad. Gaboo are a good-natured monster for all the low
numbers they have, though; they're surprisingly easy to raise, and as long as
you're patient with coaxing up their poor stats, you can have a surprisingly
good monster. They do have some Intelligence techs, but most of them are
evil-based, so if you prefer to keep your monster good, you can avoid having
to deal with that. They have good starting techs (surprisingly good hit for
their power level) and many of their moves do a lot of damage for the low guts
cost. Add in to that fact that they have a close-to-average guts regen, and
you'll see that they can make fairly good battlers, as long as you can be
patient with the low Skill. 

NAME: Gali
STATS: 110/130/160/120/90/100
GAINS: 2/3/5/3/2/3
GOOD STATS: Intelligence
BAD STATS: Life, Speed
BONUSES: Good/Bad +50 (easier to make monster 'good')
LIFESPAN: 350wk (7y 3m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Automatically good, incredible Intelligence, damaging techs
DISADVANTAGES: Slow guts regen, short lifespan, very difficult to turn evil
for evil tech, starts with no front line techs, fairly fragile, many tech
DESCRIPTION: The Gali resembles a sun-shaped mask and a cloak that float in
the air. There is apparently nothing beneath the cloak, except when the Gali
attacks; at that time, a semi-transparent hand or foot comes out to do most of
the moves. Gali are easily the most 'good' monster in the game, and their
special ability lends to that a great deal. Unfortunate, considering they do
have an evil tech, but it's only one and can be done without unless you're a
move-collector (or you happen to have a thing for evil monsters). They are a
whiz in battle, acting as marvelous one-hit killers as long as you can keep
their low defensive stats from being too much of a problem for them. With the
large damage most of their techs do, though, this isn't as hard to do as it

NAME: Ghost
STATS: 100/90/120/140/150/80
GAINS: 1/1/4/4/4/1
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Skill, Speed
BAD STATS: Life, Power, Defense
BONUSES: +1 on dodge
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Incredibly fast guts regen, +1 on dodge increases their Speed with
ease, very cheap attacks, good gains in three areas
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal gain in three stats, starts with two Power moves
DESCRIPTION: It's Casper! Actually, no. Ghost looks more like a small ghost
wearing a top hat. They are about as small as the Bajarl, and unlike the
Bajarl, they actually act their size in battle; Ghosts are much like the Gaboo
in that their low stats are hideously low, but their high gains are good
gains. The speed of their guts regeneration makes them spectacular in battle
even if they are fragile, being able to throw off move after move without much
difficulty... as long as they can survive. The best way to fight with a Ghost
is to expect that you'll be throwing an enormous number of attacks rather than
one big one, because even their heavy techs are fairly low damage, alas.
Fortunately, their guts regeneration is fast enough that it's easy to do this.

NAME: Golem
STATS: 100/220/110/70/60/160
GAINS: 3/5/3/1/1/5
GOOD STATS: Strength, Defense
BAD STATS: Skill, Speed
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Incredible Power and Defence, high-damage attacks across the
board, high starting Power
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal Speed and Skill, slow guts regen, automatically
dislikes battles so you get smaller gains from battles
DESCRIPTION: Golem looks like a gigantic stone man. You might be surprised to
find out that Golems actually have a fairly good Intelligence gain for the
fact that they only have one Intelligence attack total. Use this to your
advantage: get Intelligence to help pad their defense against Intelligence
attacks as well as their Power defenses. However, aside from that, they really
are the stereotypical 'thumpers': high Power to pummel the enemy and Defence
to soak up the damage, low Speed and Skill. They're going to take hits, so be
prepared for it. The good news is that Golems are a very good-natured creature
and are thus quite easy to raise, even if they tend to be greedy at times and
ask for spare food. When you take them into battle, fight them like you'd
think you fight them: go for the one-hit kills with their massive techs and
soak the damage with high Defence. You might want to spare some weeks of
candy-feeding to fatten them up and make them even more damage-resistant.

NAME: Hare
STATS: 50/130/70/100/140/40
GAINS: 3/5/1/3/5/1
GOOD STATS: Power, Speed
BAD STATS: Intelligence, Defense
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Incredible Speed and Power, many high hitting moves, fairly cheap
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal Intelligence and Defence, start with an Intelligence
attack, both starting attacks in the same range, a lot of tech chains
DESCRIPTION: Hare looks like a rabbit. Yep. Just a tiny little bunny rabbit.
However, it might be small, but it sure is mighty! These rabbits have
incredible Speed for fancy footwork and fairly high-hitting attacks right off
the bat. The fact that they have an Intelligence attack to start is a severe
disadvantage, since A) their Intelligence is really low already, and B) the
move is terrible to start with. Fortunately, it (and the moves that chain off
it) are the only Intelligence attacks you have to worry about on your Hare, so
you can focus on what's more important: the hard-hitting physical moves that
they were made for. Hares are made for combo attacks, since they have very
high-hitting attacks and only moderate-level damage on a lot of the attacks.
However, moderate-level damage is huge when you add in the Hare's ability to
gain in Power. 

NAME: Henger
STATS: 100/150/110/160/170/90
GAINS: 2/4/3/4/4/2
GOOD STATS: Power, Skill, Speed
BAD STATS: Life, Defense
BONUSES: +1 Shoot
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: +1 in the Skill drill is probably the most valuable +1, good gains
in three areas, fairly high starting stats across the board
DISADVANTAGES: Fairly slow guts regen, both starting techs in the same range,
fairly low-damage attacks mostly, a lot of tech chains
DESCRIPTION: Hengers are a robot monster. They have a twiggy, mechanical body
with a rather large and dome-shaped head. They have transformational powers
and can turn into a little ship, floating along on your farm. When fighting,
however, they stay in their robotic form. Training these robots is usually an
incredible delight for working with the basic trio: Power, Skill, and Speed.
While they have low numbers in other defensive numbers, having a high Speed
while layering on the Power and Skill can easily offset it. Pile on the damage
and just be careful of their slow guts regeneration. 

NAME: Hopper
STATS: 60/100/110/160/150/70
GAINS: 2/3/3/5/3/1
BAD STATS: Life, Defense
BONUSES: Fat/skinny -50 (easier to make skinny)
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Immense Skill, easily made skinny which makes them better at
dodging, very fast guts regen
DISADVANTAGES: Defensively weak, abysmal Defence, no heavy techs at all,
mostly low damage attacks
DESCRIPTION: Hoppers look somewhat like a lemur: they have big heads with huge
eyes, big ears, skinny arms and legs, and a long, ringed tail. And like their
name suggests, they hop. A lot. Everywhere. Hoppers are fairly difficult to
raise as they have a bit of an attitude problem, but the gains in Skill and an
average Power makes it worth the go. They're made to be combo monsters with
their speedy attacks and their made-for-dodging bodies, and it's probably best
to use them as one, rather than trying to force them into being heavy-hitters.
It can be tricky to get these to their necessary B-class for game-secrets to
occur, thanks to the lack of good defensive stats. 

NAME: Jell
STATS: 100/90/130/120/110/140
GAINS: 3/2/4/4/2/4
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Skill, Defense
BAD STATS: Power, Speed
BONUSES: +1 on Endure
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Good gains in three areas, +1 in Defence training makes their
Defence even better
DISADVANTAGES: More Power attacks than Intelligence ones though their
Intelligence is higher
DESCRIPTION: Jells resemble a jelly creature. Their base is flat, while a
man-shaped raise comes up out of the top of it. A core floats in the middle of
it. However, they can transform into a number of shapes, both in and out of
the battle. For instance, you can watch as they transform into a helicopter
and flutter their way happily around your farm, or turn into a sphere to glomp
down their treats. As you might notice up above, they have very few particular
weaknesses and strengths, making them an easy monster to raise for a young
trainer. The one thing you might want to do is make certain that you push some
Power on them, or that you make certain you get a Jell with a Power-monster as
a sub. That will make the Power attacks they have effective. Of course, you
can always focus on the Intelligence moves they have and use those. In battle,
jells are generally made to be used for taking the hits and doing more damage
than they take. The fact that they have average guts regeneration helps with
this greatly.

NAME: Jill
STATS: 140/160/150/110/100/130
GAINS: 3/4/4/2/2/3
GOOD STATS: Power, Intelligence
BAD STATS: Skill, Speed
BONUSES: +1 Papas (Speed/Sharpness Errantry)
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Almost no tech chains, fairly high starting stats across the board
DISADVANTAGES: Slow guts regen
DESCRIPTION: Jill is an abominable snowman. A mini-abominable snowman, mind
you. ... alright. It's a small shaggy pile of fur with a face at the front and
a pair of feet sticking out from beneath. Its arms are completely hidden
beneath unless it has something to do with them. For all the difficulty that
they are to unlock, Jills are quite worth it: they're very powerful monsters,
with a dragon-like attack gain (if not as high as the dragon's gains) and a
longer lifespan. Jills are, like dragons, made to be one-hit killers,
primarily. Breaking out one of their heavy-damage techs with a fairly good hit
will generally wipe just about anything out. However, aside from their
specials, most of the Jill techs are fairly mid-level damage, so hang in there
and pick away at them if you have to.

NAME: Joker
STATS: 120/110/200/190/100/90
GAINS: 3/3/5/5/2/2
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Skill
BAD STATS: Speed, Defense
BONUSES: -50 Good/evil (easier to turn evil)
LIFESPAN: 350wk (7y 3m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Incredible gains in Intelligence and Skill, very high Intelligence
and Skill to start, naturally evil attitude makes gaining evil techs easy,
very few moves (most of which can be gained through combining)
DISADVANTAGES: Not very defensive at all, evil monsters are harder to raise,
short lifespan
DESCRIPTION: Joker has a distantly similar look to the Gali, in that it's a
cloak and a mask. However, the mask, rather than being a sun, is a death's
head clown face, and the cloak is purple and red within. Metal gauntlets act as
its hands, and the Joker carries an enormous scythe-axe along with it, too.
All in all, a very brutal-looking creature. And 'brutal' is a good way to
describe its fighting style as well: Jokers weren't really made for anything
except for hitting hard with one or two attacks and taking the enemy down
fast. They're not defensive; they're purely offensive. They are, as well,
extremely evil. Turning a Joker good is pretty much impossible unless they
have specifically 'good' subs like Tiger. And considering that most of its
moves are evil-based, it's not a good idea, anyway. This combination makes
Jokers a very deadly monster, but a very difficult one to raise. As a bit of
help, Jokers hardly have any moves at all: if you've got one combined, it will
probably have started with almost all its moves and you may never need to go
on errantry for the rest of its life.

NAME: Kato
STATS: 70/60/170/140/160/100
GAINS: 2/1/5/3/5/2
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Speed
BAD STATS: Life, Power, Defense
BONUSES: +1 meditate
LIFESPAN: 550wk (11y 5m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Really high Intelligence and Speed, long lifespan
DISADVANTAGES: Very slow guts regen, three stats with fairly low gains,
several tech chains, bug-locked techs
DESCRIPTION: Kato are the dirty old men of the Monster Rancher world. They
look like striped cats, though they've got an old man beard and moustache. In
the US version, there's been some censoring done. Drinking 'olive oil', my
butt! They're quite obviously drinking sake. In addition, they'll occasionally
sit down for a lovely smoke with an invisible pipe. They're grumpy old men when
it comes to raising them, too: they're not unchangeably evil, but they are bad
natured and it takes a little to 'tweak' them up to be good if you want the
good techs. And alas, having them good may be better, since many of their evil
techs are locked by an apparent programming bug. Still, they have plenty of
other great moves to take its place. Don't worry too much about their Power,
focus on their Intelligence moves, and you'll have a game-winner even without
those locked techs. Twister claw will take you through a long way. 

NAME: Metalner
STATS: 50/20/10/160/30/170
GAINS: 3/2/1/5/1/5
GOOD STATS: Skill, Defense
BAD STATS: Power, Intelligence, Speed
BONUSES: +50% fear effect (easier to make strict)
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Fastest guts regen in the game, excellent Skill and Defence
DISADVANTAGES: Very low starting stats, abysmal Intelligence and Speed
DESCRIPTION: Metalner are... well, they're supposed to be aliens. They have a
body that resembles a UFO with metallic legs and arms, and a big-eared robotic
head. Strange looking creatures, indeed! And oh, but they're *hard* to raise.
For one thing, you'll take a look at the stats and, likely, be horrified.
While it is possible to get a Metalner into the Big 4 right off the bat with a
costly and item-intensive raising style, it's generally expected that you'll
need to combine them at least once to get some stats up. However, once you
have some attack stats, the Metalner will pay its way with ease. The mix of
immense Skill and unbeatable Defence makes the monster a veritable tank, and
with the massive speed of its guts regeneration, you'll never be at a loss for
guts. Take advantage of the high Skill and use heavy techs: you may well need
it depending on how high you can force their Power in the beginning. They can
also work as high-class withering monsters: Metalners don't have a lot of
withering attacks, but a lot of their attacks have at least some withering.
Take advantage of it.
An interesting bit of trivia is that Metalners do not truly 'die'. When their
lifespan is up, they simply get up and fly off to what I assume would be their
'home planet' again. It's a fairly cute little scene. And unfortunately, no.
Metalners *don't* come back again. It's just their way of seeing shooting

STATS: 130/80/70/120/140/90
GAINS: 4/2/2/4/4/2
GOOD STATS: Life, Skill, Speed
BAD STATS: Power, Intelligence, Defense
LIFESPAN: 500wk (10y 5m)
ADVANTAGES: No particularly massive-low stats, three fairly good stats
DISADVANTAGES: Three fairly low stats
DESCRIPTION: Mews are small, yellow cat dolls with big green eyes. In Monster
Rancher 1, they were known as 'Nya', but there's not a great deal of
difference between the monsters here and the monsters there. They're not too
bad in attitude, though the lack of attack stats makes focusing on one or the
other fairly important. Getting Mews' withering attacks are a good idea, if
you can get their Intelligence high enough for them. They do very little
damage, but the withering is extremely handy to whittle the monster down from
long distance while you smack on him with physical attacks. Unless they've
been bred heavily or are part heavy-Power monster, it's rare that Mews will be
made into a heavy damage-dealer. 

NAME: Mocchi
STATS: 110/100/120/140/150/130
GAINS: 3/3/3/4/4/4
GOOD STATS: Skill, Speed, Defense
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: No weaknesses in statgains
DISADVANTAGES: Difficult tech chain to use
DESCRIPTION: Mocchis are... a rather hard monster to describe in a few words.
They are small, pink, and green-shelled. They resemble something between a
pudgy turtle and a dumpling. In all honesty, describing a Mocchi is difficult;
you have to see them to understand. Mocchis, though, are the game's major
easy-to-raise creature. They have no weak spots in their stats, and though
they have a number of tech chains, forcing you to use moves a lot to be able
to fill them in, they make up for it with those stats. All you have to do is
stomach their endless degrees of 'cute'. In battle, Mocchis can be used pretty
much however you want, depending on how you decided to raise them. However,
thanks to almost all their stats having some degree of withering, they work
well in that line. Get their withering moves and frustrate your enemy to no
end. Then all you need to do is bash them into the ground with your various
heavier moves. Really, it's obvious why Mocchis are one of the primary market

NAME: Mock
STATS: 200/70/140/50/60/40
GAINS: 1/2/5/2/2/2
GOOD STATS: Intelligence
BAD STATS: Life, Power, Skill, Speed, Defense
LIFESPAN: 550wk (11y 5m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Incredible Intelligence, excellent starting Life, high lifespan
DISADVANTAGES: Low gains in everything else, abysmal Life gains, fairly low
starting numbers in most stats
DESCRIPTION: Mocks look like an old, dead tree with a face at the front. And,
well... to say the least, they are probably some of the more difficult
monsters to raise. For one thing, no. That's not an error that you're reading
up there. Mocks have terribly low gains in all of the above stats. And even
though they start with the highest Life totals of any monster in the game,
they get truly hideous gains in Life; the lowest possible, as a matter of
fact. Fortunately, they have that long lifespan to help make up for it, and by
starting out with an Intelligence attack, you're not totally crippled in the
fight arena once you're actually ready to go there. Plus, unlike many
monsters, their drain attack is actually based off their primary attack stat:
Intelligence. On the other hand, getting the stats up can be difficult, as so
many of them have low gains. Just focus hard on making sure they have enough
Skill to hit and enough Life and Defence (or Speed) to survive, and try to
make them a one-hit killer as you would a Joker. It's generally the easiest
way to go with Mocks. 

NAME: Monol
STATS: 110/130/140/100/10/220
GAINS: 2/3/3/2/1/5
BAD STATS: Life, Skill, Speed
LIFESPAN: 350wk (7y 3m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Starts with phenomenal Defence, incredible Defence gains
DISADVANTAGES: Short lifespan, abysmal Speed, a lot of three-tier tech chains,
very slow guts regen, low numbers in three areas
DESCRIPTION: Monols are simply a rectangle of black rock: a monolith, exactly
like the one in Space Odyssey. They grow 'faces' from their front (which can
be a genuinely eerie sight, to be honest), and various 'physical' weapons as
well. With their short lifespans, low gains in several areas, and rather
stubborn attitudes, Monols can be difficult to raise right off the bat. It's
usually best to focus on either Intelligence or Power since the other stats
that you'll need are a slow gain; focusing on both could well leave you in
danger because of neglecting one of the other low stats. My personal
preference is Intelligence, since a lot of their good moves are
Intelligence-based, but the knocks, the heavy spike attacks, and the basic
'flattening' moves are Power-based, so strength works, too. In fights, it's
usually best to take advantage of their defensive ability and take the hits
while doling out your own. It can be a very dangerous idea if you're up
against withering monsters, though, because of their slow guts regen. Be

NAME: Naga
STATS: 120/160/100/150/110/130
GAINS: 3/4/1/4/2/3
GOOD STATS: Power, Skill
BAD STATS: Intelligence, Speed
LIFESPAN: 350wk (7y 3m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Very few tech chains, fairly short move list, good starting stats,
naturally liking combat means better gains after battles
DISADVANTAGES: Low lifespan, naturally bad-natured, abysmal Intelligence,
several Intelligence attacks with a low Intelligence gain
DESCRIPTION: Naga are a snake-man-like creature. They have the lower body of a
fairly short and thick-bodied snake, a humanoid upper body with big, clawed
hands, and a head that resembles that of a snake on top of it. Naga are
nasty-tempered creatures, starting out bad and tending to really try the
patience of those who are used to easygoing, good monsters. However, keeping
patient with raising them, Naga can be spectacular combat creatures, thanks to
their gains in the Power-Skill area and the fact they get more points in stats
after battles than most monsters. Plus, their moves are fairly hard-hitting
and quick to throw, making them the ultimate combo-monsters once they get

NAME: Niton
STATS: 90/40/30/70/50/160
GAINS: 3/2/2/2/2/5
BAD STATS: Power, Intelligence, Skill, Speed
BONUSES: +1 Swim
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Spectacular Defence, fairly fast guts regen
DISADVANTAGES: Lots of tech chains, multiple low stat gains, starts with poor
numbers except in Defence
DESCRIPTION: Nitons look exactly like ammonites: spiraled shells, a little
body with a mini-face, and tentacles hanging down beneath it. Nitons are
another one of those 'tricky to raise' monsters that the game seems to like so
much. While they're actually fairly easygoing and neutral-natured, Nitons'
starting stats are low enough that you have to do a heck of a lot of work to
get them to be fighting fit in any way, shape, or form. Basically, they're the
patient-man's monster. Focus on one attack ability or the other, probably, so
you'll have enough time to work their Skill to be able to hit with the techs
you'll be throwing. It won't be until after combining that they'll have the
starting numbers for working both. When they're in battle, use that stat and
the attacks with it heavily, and use the guts regen to your advantage with
their Defence. 

NAME: Phoenix
STATS: 170/150/190/140/160/110
GAINS: 3/1/5/3/3/3
GOOD STATS: Intelligence
BAD STATS: Strength
BONUSES: +1 Kawrea (Defense/Special Errantry)
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: High starting stats, incredible Intelligence, very few weak points
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal Power, starts with only Power attacks
DESCRIPTION: Another monster that looks like its name: the Phoenix resembles
an orange bird with long tail feathers and flaming body. It's one of the
easiest monsters to get far with; a lot of people have either beat the game or
at least gone a considerable distance with it. Thanks to the fact that it has
a great many Intelligence attacks, it's fairly easy to skip its single Power
attack (aside from its starting techs) and build up its damaging abilities.
Add in the fact that Phoenix are naturally good creatures, and easy to work
with, and you've got a winner. Certainly, it can be a bit of work turning them
evil if you're interested in getting their single evil tech, but it may not
even be worth it to most people. In combat, Phoenix are made to be quick
hitters, taking out the enemy in one or two attacks. I highly suggest using
them that way; it's simple, but brutally effective with a high-Skill bird,
thanks to its Intelligence gains.
One little bit of interesting info about the Phoenix is that, when it grows
old enough to 'die', rather than falling down and croaking, they simply up and
fly away. It's a very touching scene, actually; a nice little extra in the
game. However, don't get all excited: the Phoenix never comes back from that
final flight. It's just their own personal way of seeing falling stars.

NAME: Pixie
STATS: 50/80/170/150/140/60
GAINS: 1/2/5/4/4/1
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Skill, Speed
BAD STATS: Life, Power, Defense
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Very fast guts regen, extremely high Intelligence
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal Life and Defence, very fragile, a lot of tech chains,
only Power techs starting out
DESCRIPTION: Pixies are small, pink, winged women with some animal-like
characteristics, including small horns and a little tail. They're also
wearing... uh... very little. Really; it's almost obscene how these ladies are
dressed. They tend to be naughty little things (no, not in *that* way) and a
challenge to get through their early years, but the reward is well worth it:
Pixies are a hard-hitting Intelligence-and-Speed monster. A very basic
creature for the Monster Rancher series, and they're made for fighting in a
quick-dodging, hard-hitting style. Take advantage of that fast guts
regeneration and throw the moves as fast as you can; the enemy just won't be
able to keep up while you're taking them down.

NAME: Plant
STATS: 160/40/120/110/100/70
GAINS: 5/1/3/3/2/1
BAD STATS: Power, Speed, Defense
LIFESPAN: 550wk (11y 5m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Very fast guts regen, incredible Life, excellent withering across
the board, long lifespan
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal Power and Defence, very low-damage moves, only Power
for starting techs
DESCRIPTION: Plants are a plant; they have a large body-stem with a mouth in
it, two leaves which act as hands (or wings, when they're fluttering around
your farm), roots that act as their feet, and a trio of blossoms growing atop
the stalk. They are not a monster for those people who want to raise a
hard-hitting creature; although with training in Intelligence, they can go up
high enough to make several of their Intelligence moves dangerous, the highest
damage they have is C-rank, even among their 'Special' moves. Instead, focus
on the Plant's withering moves and use them to keep your enemy unable to do
anything while you whittle them down to nothing. The Plant's long lifespan
gives a hand in raising even their lower stats up to workable levels, though
to be honest, the only reason you should worry about Power is for defense;
the Plant's Power moves are nothing really worthwhile.

NAME: Suezo
STATS: 80/120/170/130/90/100
GAINS: 2/3/5/4/2/2
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Skill
BAD STATS: Life, Speed, Defense
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: No tech chains, incredible Intelligence, fairly good withering
across the board
DISADVANTAGES: Very fragile creatures, starts automatically evil
DESCRIPTION: Suezo is the main mascot of the Monster Rancher series. It's a
round, yellow 'head' with a single eye in the middle, a big mouth underneath
it, and a little tail that it hops about on. Suezos are another of the basic
monsters that you can get at the market, and their lack of tech chains makes
a good reason for getting hold of one; it's easier to get their moves than
most creatures. However, Suezos have the disadvantage of being a fairly
fragile creature: all three of the 'defensive' stats are below average. In
addition, they start out bad-natured, meaning that unless you want them
cheating their way through life, tweaking them toward good might be a good
idea. They haven't got any good or evil techs to worry about, after all
(although Anger can be handy if you're willing to endure the cheats). On the
other hand, their high Skill and Intelligence makes them a natural for a
hard-hitting style, and their many excellent withering attacks make them
perfect as antagonizing monsters. 

NAME: Tiger
STATS: 80/90/130/160/140/70
GAINS: 2/2/4/5/4/1
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Skill, Speed
BAD STATS: Life, Power, Defense
SPECIALS: Hurry, Will
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Two battle specials, no tech chains, fast guts regen, high
sharpness in almost all moves, excellent Skill, good gains in three stats
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal Defence, low gains in three stats, only physical techs
to start
DESCRIPTION: Tiger looks more like an odd sort of wolf than a tiger, really.
It's got the body of a wolf with blue and white fur, and a pair of
forward-curving horns on its head. It also barks and howls. So I'm not all
that sure why they called it a 'tiger'. Anyhow, Tiger is probably the #1
monster for beginners if you can find one on a disk somewhere. They're
good-natured, they start with two valuable battle specials, they have no tech
chains to have to worry about, and their high sharpness in moves means that
they do extra damage with pretty much all their attacks because of the
critical hits. It's a real pity that they're no longer in the market. Focus on
their good stats and Tigers will do the job of a Pixie, even better in some
cases. You've just got to be careful: with the low Defence gains they have, a
Tiger will never really be able to take hits unless you work the Defence
especially hard or have a good sub (like Golem) to make it up.

NAME: Undine
STATS: 50/10/150/110/100/60
GAINS: 3/1/4/5/4/1
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Skill, Speed
BAD STATS: Power, Defense
BONUSES: +1 study
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Good gain in three stats, good guts regen, excellent gain in Skill 
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal gain in Power and Defence, several tech chains, many
very low starting stats
DESCRIPTION: Undine look like mermaids completely formed out of water, rather
like a Jell crossed with a mermaid. They are difficult creatures to locate,
and the starting stats they get off the slate has scared many people away.
However, they're rather Pixie-like in their stat-gains, if less in the
'Intelligence' level and more in the 'Skill'. They also have the advantage
that they start with an Intelligence-based attack, making it that much easier
to advance without possibly having to force them through an early-life
errantry. Other than that, though, play them like Pixies: throw on the damage
and make the enemy hate your guts. In addition, they have more withering techs
than Pixies, and can be used effectively in that way, rather than pure damage.

NAME: Worm
STATS: 180/100/110/120/60/90
GAINS: 5/3/3/3/1/2
BAD STATS: Speed, Defense
LIFESPAN: 400wk (8y 4m)
ADVANTAGES: Extremely high Life, not a lot of tech chains, can be cocooned
into various other monsters, no good or evil techs
DESCRIPTION: Worms look like a cross between a worm and a caterpillar. They
have six eyes, a brown, segmented body, six stubby legs (although those legs
can be extended into spidery lengths when they feel like skittering around the
farm), a pointy stinger on the tail end, and a pair of pincers on its mouth
end. While Worms were all over the place in Monster Rancher 1, they're much
harder to get hold of in Monster Rancher 2. Thus, slate them if you have it.
You need to have one to unlock a monster, after all. And besides, hatching the
Worm is just plain fun in itself. However, we're here to talk about raising
one. Not hatching one. Worms are fairly easy to raise. While they gain equally
well in both Power and Intelligence, you'll probably want to focus on the
Power aspect of them, as most of Worms' attacks are Power-based. Certainly
which Intelligence ones they have are powerful, but with there only being two
of them total, it's best to deal more with a Power-Worm than an
Intelligence-Worm. Many of the Worm's attacks are fairly good in the 'hit'
area, as well, so don't be afraid to combo your way through the enemy.

NAME: Wracky
STATS: 20/10/150/40/160/30
GAINS: 3/1/4/1/4/1
GOOD STATS: Intelligence, Speed
BAD STATS: Power, Skill, Defense
BONUSES: +1 leap
LIFESPAN: 600wk (12y 6m)
ADVANTAGES: Fast guts regen, longest lifespan in the game
DISADVANTAGES: Abysmal in all three 'bad' stats, starts automatically evil,
extremely low starting stats
DESCRIPTION: Wracky looks like a small puppet or doll carrying a mini straight
razor. Think 'Chucky', only without all the scars. Wrackys are an extremely
difficult monster to raise; generally, it's a good thing that they'll only
show up after you're in S-class and hopefully have some practice in
monster-raising. Their evil attitude makes it difficult to make them do
anything, and their incredibly low starting stats means that you'll have to
work fairly hard to get them anywhere. However, if you can be patient and get
those numbers up where they need to be, Wrackys are an impressive monster. As
a bit of trivia, they have, literally, the most damaging attack in the game:
Explosion. Alas, it's a Power move on an Intelligence creature, but the fact
remains. Get these guys in battle and focus on speed-dodging and
combo-attacking the enemy to death. 

NAME: Zilla
STATS: 150/180/80/50/60/100
GAINS: 4/5/2/1/2/3
GOOD STATS: Life, Power
BAD STATS: Intelligence, Skill, Speed
BONUSES: +1 Torble (Skill/Hit)
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: Incredible Power, mostly hard-hitting attacks
DISADVANTAGES: Poor gain in three stats, abysmal Skill, very slow guts regen
DESCRIPTION: Zilla looks like a humanoid whale standing on two stubby,
elephant-like legs and with blocky arms and clawed hands. The game says how
very few people raise them because they're big and a glutton. It's true; for
raw Power, Golem is probably better in a lot of ways. However, the Zilla is
still a viable choice. Training one of these is rather like training a Golem
with Life in mind rather than Defence. It tends to work the same way, too:
coming out strong and acing the enemy with super-strong hits. The +1 in Torble
might not seem like much, but it'll at least help the Skill somewhat, and
you'll want to get their 'hit' techs to deal damage to the opponent, with
their low Skill. Fortunately, even their 'hit' attacks deal good damage, so
you can crush enemies tail slaps as easily as trying to hit them with body

NAME: Zuum
STATS: 130/120/80/140/100/110
GAINS: 3/3/2/4/3/3
BAD STATS: Intelligence
BONUSES: +1 run
LIFESPAN: 450wk (9y 4m 2wk)
ADVANTAGES: No really weak points in statgains
DISADVANTAGES: Lots of tech chains
DESCRIPTION: Zuums resemble a theropod dinosaur. The game describes them as
having their stats in balance, and while it's not perfectly true, it's fairly
accurate: they've got a small bonus in Skill and a slight disadvantage in
Intelligence, but everything else is right on the 'average' line. Because of
this, and the fact that they're naturally neutral, Zuums are another of those
monsters that are good for just starting out. Take advantage of the +1 in the
run drill to keep their Life score high so you can absorb a few hits. Zuums
are worthy fighters in either a combo style or a one-hit killer style, however
you most want to run them. However, they have little in the way of withering,
so don't try and focus too hard on that side of things. They're fighters. Not

While there are only 38 different 'primary types' of monster, these monsters
can be combined with others to make various crossbreeds, having some of the
statistics of both parents, with the body and moves of their 'primary' breed.
However, they are graphically different, thus making each and every monster a
unique individual unto itself. For example, a Hare combined with a Zuum could
make either a Hare/Zuum (which looks like a green and scaly Hare) or a
Zuum/Hare (which looks like a brown and somewhat fuzzy Zuum with spots and
ears). Not every monster can be combined with every other monster, but there
is still a considerable number that can be 'crossbred' in this way. In
addition, there are also 'special' monsters which can be gotten off various
CDs that often look extremely different and interesting, compared to their
'normal' counterparts. In total, there are a total of 390 playable monsters in
this game. 

'But Kurasu', you say. 'The book in this game goes up to 408. Not 390'.
Indeed. This is because in the game, you are occasionally, randomly, able to
fight specific monsters on the errantries. Of these monsters, a handful of
them are high-powered, A to S Class 'enemies'. If you meet up with one of
these (whether you defeat them or not), they will be added to your book as
'enemy cards'. In addition, the two final monsters that you fight are counted
as 'enemy monsters' and will be added to your list when you fight them in
Master Class. However, no matter what people will try to say, there is *NO
WAY* to play these creatures without the help of a Gameshark. They are simply
there as trophies and collectables. The one exception to this is White Mocchi,
which can be obtained through breeding with a DNA Capsule (White). These,
however, can only be obtained in Monster Farm II (the Japanese game) or with
the use of a Gameshark.

Now, when a monster is combined with another one, as mentioned above, stats
are 'adjusted'. For example, a hare is normally a fast creature and a strong
one. Mixed with a Golem into a Hare/Golem will make a creature of great
strength, but its Speed will go down. On the other hand, its Defence will go
up. Go the other way (a Golem/Hare), and you will have a Golem with less
Defence, but greater Speed than most of its kind. Lifespans also adjust, the
numbers being adjusted slightly to average out between the pair of them. A
Wracky mixed with a Mock (Wracky/Mock), for instance, still has an excellent
lifespan, since both halves have one. On the other hand, mix it with a Joker
(Wracky/Joker) and you've taken a big hit in lifespan in exchange for greater
Intelligence and Skill. 

Unlike the detail given in the 'Monster Types', information here will be
fairly light, just the basics: name, type/subtype, book's description, and
stats. If you want to know in more detail how they stand up, take a look at
the 'monster types', get a basic idea of the numbers the subtype will add in,
and judge for yourself how they will match up for the most part.

If you would like to know how much one of these combined monsters gains, take
a look at the two 'pure' monsters that went into it. Take the numbers and
average them (add them up and divide by 2). Round all decimal points in the
main's favor. For example, take a Pixie/Hare. The Pixie has an Intelligence
gain of 5. The Hare has an Intelligence gain of 1. Therefore, the Pixie/Hare
would have an Intelligence gain of 3. Now in Speed, the Pixie has a gain of 4,
while the Hare has one of 5. Averaging them out, you get 4.5. With the example
we have, Pixie/Hare, the Pixie is the main. So you round the number in favor
of her Speed stat: 4. If it was a Hare/Pixie, the number would be rounded in
the Hare's favor: 5.

001. Pixie [Pixie/Pixie] 
Class E
There are many fans though it is spoiled and powerless.

002. Daina [Pixie/Dragon] 
Class D
Because it is of legendary blood, it has high pride.

003. Unico [Pixie/Centaur] 
Class C
It is the most earnest monster in the Pixie species.

004. Jilt [Pixie/Wracky] 
Class C
It is known that Jilt likes to tease men.

005. Granity [Pixie/Golem] 
Class D
It has a cold atmosphere maybe because of its strong will.

006. Dixie [Pixie/Zuum] 
Class E
It likes wild life because it was born in a jungle.

007. Janne [Pixie/Durahan] 
Class C
It is brave but its heart is a little bit too delicate to defeat enemies.

008. Mint [Pixie/Tiger] 
Class E
It has charming bluish hair and a cute tail.

009. Lepus [Pixie/Hare] 
Class E
In winter, warm air is held in its fur and keeps it warm.

010. Angel [Pixie/Gali] 
Class D
They say Angel is the most merciful monster of all.

011. Kitten [Pixie/Kato] 
Class E
A musical, based on Kitten's life has played a long run.

012. Jinnee [Pixie/Bajarl] 
Class C
It is sloppy by nature and sleeps often.

013. Futurity [Pixie/Metalner] 
Class B
Its looks may be what humans look like in the future.

014. Vanity [Pixie/Suezo] 
Class E
This name was given by Dr. Maccots when he found it.

015. Snowy [Pixie/Jill] 
Class C
It is mentioned in the legends of some northern countries.

016. Lilim [Pixie/Joker] 
Class B
It can be best described as a little witch.

017. Nagisa [Pixie/Jell] 
Class E
"Nagisa Skin." This admiring word is derived from this one.

018. Dryad [Pixie/Mock] 
Class C
This monster is a tree fairy. It inhabits in the forest.

019. Serenity [Pixie/Plant] 
Class D
In spite of its photosynthesis ability, it loves to eat.

020. Silhouette [Pixie/Monol] 
Class D
It has a shield wrapped around it in the FIMBA area.

021. Night Flyer [Pixie/Worm] 
Class C
Some people consider its beautiful feathers grotesque.

022. Allure [Pixie/Naga] 
Class D
They say that it sucks the life force out of men.

023. Poison [Pixie/???] 
Class S
They say it is hysterical. But the truth is unknown.

024. Kasumi [Pixie/???] 
Class A
Its breasts tend to get more attention than its battles.

025. Mia [Pixie/???] 
Class S
It draws many people's support with its cute charm.

026. Tiamat [Dragon/Pixie] 
Class D
Everybody agrees on its strength, but few agrees on its looks.

027. Dragon [Dragon/Dragon] 
Class D
Everybody knows this legendary monster. But few can raise it.

028. Corkasus [Dragon/Beaclon] 
Class C
It is difficult to find it since it hardly leaves its homeland.

029. Tecno Dragon [Dragon/Henger] 
Class C
They say it was made with all the ancient technologies.

030. Stone Dragon [Dragon/Golem] 
Class C
It is afraid its destructive power may affect others, and hides in a cave.

031. Armor Dragon [Dragon/Durahan] 
Class B
They say it was used by humans for the ancient battles.

032. Crab Dragon [Dragon/Arrow Head] 
Class D
It inhabits the lake and rules that lake.

033. Hound Dragon [Dragon/Tiger] 
Class D
It has a habit of hiding things like a dog.

034. Gariel [Dragon/Gali] 
Class C
Its head is like holography, for it has a kind of deity.

035. Oscerot [Dragon/Kato] 
Class D
This monster keeps a collection of oil pot in his house.

036. Dodongo [Dragon/Bajarl] 
Class C
This dragon can only be seen in the desert area.

037. Gidras [Dragon/Metalner] 
Class B
This dragon has the mysterious power of Metalner.

038. Death Dragon [Dragon/Joker] 
Class B
It is said that this dragon was resurrected by Joker's power.

039. Ragnaroks [Dragon/Monol] 
Class D
They say the ancient culture might have been destroyed by it.

040. Moo [Dragon/???] 
Class S
This dreadful looking dragon hardly appears even in legends.

041. Ferious [Centaur/Pixie] 
Class C
It has the upper body of a Pixie and the lower body of a horse.

042. Dragoon [Centaur/Dragon] 
Class C
This monster is the mixture of a brave Dragon and a just Centaur.

043. Centaur [Centaur/Centaur] 
Class D
This monster is intelligent, just and proud.

044. Trojan [Centaur/Golem] 
Class C
It has stonelike hard skin and a stubborn character.

045. Chariot [Centaur/Durahan] 
Class B
It is said that it holds the souls of Durahan and Centaur.

046. Antares [Centaur/Arrow Head] 
Class D
It is expected to function well both in water and on land.

047. Celious [Centaur/Tiger] 
Class D
It is a loner and does not like to cluster.

048. Bazoo [Centaur/Bajarl] 
Class B
It resides in a harsh location, and has its own values.

049. Reaper [Centaur/Joker] 
Class B
It was created by Joker, but it even hates him.

050. Trotter [Centaur/???] 
Class A
It has an excellent reputation as an excellent runner.

051. Blue Thunder [Centaur/???] 
Class A
This tribe is considered to be the descendant of Thor.

052. PeachTreeBug [ColorPandora/Pixie] 
Class D
It is cute, but you should know that it is a bit too noisy.

053. ColorPandora [ColorPandora/ColorPandora] 
Class D
This monster has three wills. Victory, love, and effort.

054. Liquid Cube [ColorPandora/Jell] 
Class D
It is almost impossible to recognize it in the water.

055. Dice [ColorPandora/???] 
Class A
This monster has strange patterns on its body.

056. Tram [ColorPandora/???] 
Class A
This monster is covered by a house-like pattern.

057. Bethelgeus [Beaclon/Dragon] 
Class C
The image of its flying in the sky is called "Death's Dance."

058. Beaclon [Beaclon/Beaclon] 
Class C
It has a strong body and much power. However, its IQ is low.

059. Melcarba [Beaclon/Henger] 
Class C
A mechanical monster who was made before Henger.

060. Rocklon [Beaclon/Golem] 
Class C
Its rocky body may be hollow inside because it can fly.

061. Centurion [Beaclon/Durahan] 
Class B
Its body is covered with well-designed solid armor.

062. Sloth Beetle [Beaclon/Tiger] 
Class C
It resides in a high mountain region, that is covered in snow.

063. KautRoarKaut [Beaclon/Bajarl] 
Class B
It is used as a means of transportation by some people.

064. Jaggernaut [Beaclon/Joker] 
Class B
Its carmine eyes show its wickedness.

065. Ducklon [Beaclon/Ducken] 
Class C
It has a spring that has to be wound each morning.

066. Eggplantern [Beaclon/???] 
Class A
It is said that those who waste food are scolded by this monster.

067. Garlant [Henger/Dragon] 
Class C
It is considered to be a phantom monster in the FIMBA area.

068. Henger [Henger/Henger] 
Class D
Monster's souls in Henger rarely maintain their past memories.

069. Gaia [Henger/Golem] 
Class D
It is a mechanical monster with a soul from the Golem species.

070. Omega [Henger/Zuum] 
Class D
It is one of the reason why Zuum and Dino are similar.

071. Heuy [Henger/Metalner] 
Class C
You will be surprised to see it flying around in the air fast.

072. End Bringer [Henger/Joker] 
Class B
This mechanical monster's soul has been infused by Joker.

073. Automaton [Henger/Mock] 
Class B
It is said that it was made as a prototype for Henger.

074. Black Henger [Henger/Monol] 
Class D
Its black body is an effective camouflage in the night.

075. Skeleton [Henger/???] 
Class A
Its design is a reminder that death is always with us.

076. Baby Doll [Wracky/Pixie] 
Class C
This monster is a doll of Pixie with a wicked soul.

077. Draco Doll [Wracky/Dragon] 
Class C
The original version of this doll is sold at premium price.

078. Henger Doll [Wracky/Henger] 
Class C
It is a doll of Henger with a wicked soul.

079. Wracky [Wracky/Wracky] 
Class C
It carries the grudges of the monsters killed in the battle.

080. Pebbly [Wracky/Golem] 
Class C
This Golem doll is made of stone and is too heavy for children.

081. Petit Knight [Wracky/Durahan] 
Class B
It is the most popular doll and is often out of stock.

082. Bakky [Wracky/Bajarl] 
Class C
It never used to be bought at the shop, but it has become popular.

083. Metal Glay [Wracky/Metalner] 
Class A
This is popular among little kids and tends to be their toy.

084. Tricker [Wracky/Joker] 
Class A
Contrary to its humorous appearance, its nature is rather evil.

085. Mocky [Wracky/Mock] 
Class B
Mention of its cheap-looking makes this monster mad.

086. Santa Clause [Wracky/???] 
Class S
A festival doll became possessed and then became this monster.

087. Pink Golem [Golem/Pixie] 
Class D
It is a smart and quiet monster. It doesn't like battle.

088. Tyrant [Golem/Dragon] 
Class C
The wings on its back are to small for it to fly.

089. Strong Horn [Golem/Beaclon] 
Class C
Though it has a large horn, it hardly uses it in battle.

090. Gobi [Golem/Henger] 
Class C
It is said that this monster was a weapon for the ancient war.

091. Mariomax [Golem/Wracky] 
Class C
It always cares how it looks. It is a little bit self conceited.

092. Golem [Golem/Golem] 
Class D
It moves slowly, but its punch is destructive.

093. Scaled Golem [Golem/Zuum] 
Class D
Some ornaments are made out of its green scale.

094. Battle Rocks [Golem/Durahan] 
Class B
It is said that a giant's armor turned into this monster.

095. Dagon [Golem/Arrow Head] 
Class D
Its hard body can even resist the pressures in the deep ocean.

096. Big Blue [Golem/Tiger] 
Class D
Its body is made of ice rock, which will not ever melt.

097. Moaigon [Golem/Hare] 
Class D
Its blue eyes remember the sad history between humans and them.

098. Sleepyhead [Golem/Baku] 
Class D
It spends most of its time in one place and hardly moves.

099. Amenhotep [Golem/Gali] 
Class C
It is popular among noblemen because of its beautiful body.

100. Pressure [Golem/Zilla] 
Class B
It cannot float on the water like Zilla. It is too heavy.

101. Dao [Golem/Bajarl] 
Class C
It moves each part of its body by using a mysterious magic.

102. Astro [Golem/Metalner] 
Class B
It is said that this monster contains a Metalner in it.

103. Titan [Golem/Suezo] 
Class D
It loves curry rice, but that is not why its body is yellow.

104. Angolmor [Golem/Joker] 
Class B
It is a Golem under control of Joker's soul.

105. Poseidon [Golem/Jell] 
Class D
Though it wishes to swim the crawl, it is afraid of water.

106. Wood Golem [Golem/Mock] 
Class B
Unlike Mock, it rarely changes the expression on its face.

107. Ecologuardia [Golem/Plant] 
Class D
It is worshipped as God of nature at small shrines in some cities.

108. Black Golem [Golem/Monol] 
Class D
People cannot do bad things when they think of it watching them.

109. Magna [Golem/Worm] 
Class D
The patterns on its body is considered to be ancient characters.

110. Marble Guy [Golem/Naga] 
Class D
Unlike other Golem monsters, it is rather offensive.

111. ForwardGolem [Golem/???] 
Class A
This monster has a strong will to rush into its goals.

112. FairySaurian [Zuum/Pixie] 
Class E
We can ride on its back because it has no wings on its back.

113. Salamander [Zuum/Dragon] 
Class C
Its IQ is lower than Dragon's. It is very fast and violent.

114. Rock Saurian [Zuum/Golem] 
Class D
It can move quicker than its looks, but it is not very smart.

115. Zuum [Zuum/Zuum] 
Class E
It's pedigree is considered to be similar to the Dino species.

116. Crab Saurian [Zuum/Arrow Head] 
Class E
It can swim fast in water and it is also a fast runner.

117. HoundSaurian [Zuum/Tiger] 
Class E
It can run fast, so it is often used to deliver express mail.

118. Spot Saurian [Zuum/Hare] 
Class E
Its character is quiet, but it is brave when protecting animals.

119. Hachiro [Zuum/Baku] 
Class D
It is more intelligent than people think it is.

120. NobleSaurian [Zuum/Gali] 
Class D
It is considered to be a status symbol among noble people.

121. Tasman [Zuum/Kato] 
Class E
This monster believes only in brute strength.

122. Sand Saurian [Zuum/Bajarl] 
Class C
Most monsters dislike the desert, but this one does not.

123. Mustardy [Zuum/Suezo] 
Class E
It is playful, and tends to carry its jokes too far.

124. Basilisk [Zuum/Joker] 
Class B
It confuses its enemies with a special pattern on its body.

125. JellySaurian [Zuum/Jell] 
Class E
Its body is made up gel and can be a comfortable type of cushion.

126. Wood Saurian [Zuum/Mock] 
Class B
It is cowardly and runs into the forest when it sees humans.

127. AlohaSaurian [Zuum/Plant] 
Class E
Girls dream of riding on this one when they get married.

128. BlackSaurian [Zuum/Monol] 
Class E
Its body with a black luster attracts fashionable people.

129. ShellSaurian [Zuum/Worm] 
Class D
Various Knights rode on its back and fight in the ancient era.

130. Naga Saurian [Zuum/Naga] 
Class E
Since it is a descendant from Naga, it is rather violent.

131. ZebraSaurian [Zuum/???] 
Class B
Its striped body is the least conspicuous in savanna region.

132. Lesziena [Durahan/Pixie] 
Class C
It proves that women also participated in ancient battles.

133. Vesuvius [Durahan/Dragon] 
Class B
Its helmet has a curved dragon figure on it.

134. Hercules [Durahan/Beaclon] 
Class B
It has excellent strength and a dull sword won't even scratch it.

135. Kelmadics [Durahan/Golem] 
Class C
This stone armor is too heavy for normal people to wear.

136. Durahan [Durahan/Durahan] 
Class C
Ancient armor has mutated into the monster with this name.

137. Lorica [Durahan/Arrow Head] 
Class C
This armor, made out of the shell of Arrow Heads, is light and easy to handle.

138. Hound Knight [Durahan/Tiger] 
Class C
Its helmet is shaped like a Tiger's figure.

139. Garuda [Durahan/Phoenix] 
Class A
It is said that the legendary general, Garuda, used to wear it.

140. Metal Glory [Durahan/Metalner] 
Class A
There is no record showing that this armor has been used in the past.

141. Genocider [Durahan/Joker] 
Class B
It is said that a curse has been put upon this armor.

142. Wood Knight [Durahan/Mock] 
Class B
Poor knights made this armor out of trees in the ancient era.

143. Shogun [Durahan/???] 
Class A
This armor was discovered in an eastern country.

144. Ruby Knight [Durahan/???] 
Class A
It is said that it was the armor for the ancient royal guard.

145. Kokushi Muso [Durahan/???] 
Class A
This name means that no one can equal it.

146. Renocraft [Arrow Head/Henger] 
Class D
This monster is a prototype made by engineers prior to Hengers.

147. Priarocks [Arrow Head/Golem] 
Class D
This monster inhabits the desert and it is nocturnal.

148. Plated Arrow [Arrow Head/Durahan] 
Class C
The real design of this monster is in the form of vapor.

149. Arrow Head [Arrow Head/Arrow Head] 
Class E
Since it has a very hard shell, it is hardly KO'd in battle.

150. MustardArrow [Arrow Head/Suezo] 
Class E
Dropping tears does not always mean sadness.

151. Selketo [Arrow Head/Joker] 
Class C
It has thousands of thorns and stings whoever touches it.

152. Log Sawer [Arrow Head/Mock] 
Class C
Its body is made out of solid oak and is not soft but imflammable

153. Sumopion [Arrow Head/???] 
Class B
It is strange looking, but it does practice hard every day.

154. Daton [Tiger/Pixie] 
Class E
It is quite playful, but sometimes it injures its trainers.

155. Rock Hound [Tiger/Golem] 
Class D
It cannot run fast because its body is made out of rocks.

156. Datonare [Tiger/Zuum] 
Class E
No one equals its speed when it runs through the forest.

157. Tiger [Tiger/Tiger] 
Class E
Many ordinary people keep this monster.

158. Hare Hound [Tiger/Hare] 
Class E
This monster is very cute and will make you want to keep it.

159. Balon [Tiger/Gali] 
Class D
Because of its solemn nature, ordinary people doesn't keep it.

160. Mono Eyed [Tiger/Suezo] 
Class E
It is weak in measuring exact distance with its single eye.

161. Jelly Hound [Tiger/Jell] 
Class E
After it passes by, even warm air turns into cool air.

162. Tropical Dog [Tiger/Plant] 
Class E
It is popular mainly in the southern region.

163. Terror Dog [Tiger/Monol] 
Class E
It takes extra care properly maintain its beautiful hair.

164. Jagd Hound [Tiger/Worm] 
Class D
Its four eyes will not function at the same time.

165. Cabalos [Tiger/Naga] 
Class E
Ordinary people are prohibited from keeping this monster.

166. White Hound [Tiger/???] 
Class B
This monster has pure white hair and much is made of it.

167. Fairy Hopper [Hopper/Pixie] 
Class D
It can jump a little higher that other hoppers.

168. Draco Hopper [Hopper/Dragon] 
Class C
Though its potential is high, few people raise suck a scary looking monster.

169. Skipper [Hopper/Tiger] 
Class E
It will move seductively when someone touches its horn.

170. Hopper [Hopper/Hopper] 
Class E
It is a naughty monster, but it is loved by many trainers.

171. Mustachios [Hopper/Kato] 
Class E
This monster is always clustered with companions.

172. Emerald Eye [Hopper/Bajarl] 
Class C
It is said that it loves to eat jewelry, especially emeralds.

173. Springer [Hopper/Metalner] 
Class B
Its body shows a soft luster because of its Metalner blood.

174. Rear Eyed [Hopper/Suezo] 
Class E
It has the third eye in the back of its head.

175. Snow Hopper [Hopper/Jill] 
Class B
Snowboarding was created by copying the way this monster skis.

176. Pink Hopper [Hopper/Mocchi] 
Class E
It is a combined monster from two other popular monsters, but it is not

177. Sneak Hopper [Hopper/Joker] 
Class B
It is very self centered and it has a cunning character.

178. Woody Hopper [Hopper/Mock] 
Class B
It is covered with body hair that looks like bark at glance.

179. Frog Hopper [Hopper/???] 
Class A
It likes to play battle games with kids and be mischievous.

180. Fairy Hare [Hare/Pixie] 
Class E
It worries about what people think, and is very shy.

181. Rocky Fur [Hare/Golem] 
Class D
Its body is hard as rocks, but too heavy to move quickly.

182. Scaled Hare [Hare/Zuum] 
Class E
Its ability to jump is better than that of other Hares.

183. Blue Hare [Hare/Tiger] 
Class E
Its blue body is considered to be cute and is high in popularity.

184. Hare [Hare/Hare] 
Class E
Hare is a little monster, but it can move quickly and it is brave.

185. Prince Hare [Hare/Gali] 
Class D
It contains deity blood and has a refined appearance.

186. Four Eyed [Hare/Suezo] 
Class E
It accurately aims at its target with its four eyes.

187. Jelly Hare [Hare/Jell] 
Class E
Its body is firmly constructed, except its flabby belly.

188. Leaf Hare [Hare/Plant] 
Class E
When it excites, the leaf pattern on its back will become embossed.

189. Evil Hare [Hare/Monol] 
Class E
Unlike other Hare monsters, it's a nocturnal monster.

190. Wild Hare [Hare/Worm] 
Class D
This is a manly looking monster with famous bushy eyebrows.

191. Purple Hare [Hare/Naga] 
Class E
It can launch sharp attacks, but it is weak in defense.

192. Kung Fu Hare [Hare/???] 
Class B
It trains daily to master the ancient art of kung fu.

193. Magmax [Baku/Dragon] 
Class C
It is active, but it becomes lazy when it is kept by humans.

194. Higante [Baku/Golem] 
Class C
It has an abundant knowledge, but it is not good at applying it.

195. War Baku [Baku/Durahan] 
Class B
It functioned well as a shield in the ancient battle.

196. Icebergy [Baku/Tiger] 
Class D
It is a glutton, so ordinary people do not raise it.

197. Gontar [Baku/Hare] 
Class D
It is curious and wants to accept all kinds of challenges.

198. Baku [Baku/Baku] 
Class D
It doesn't like trouble, and it is an innocent monster.

199. Nussie [Baku/Kato] 
Class D
It is the type of monster that won't risk anything.

200. Baku Clown [Baku/Joker] 
Class B
It was born as a tool of devils, but it forgets its evil duty.

201. Giga Pint [Baku/Jell] 
Class D
It is quiet and patient. Its body of gel is very flexible.

202. Shishi [Baku/???] 
Class A
It is said that anyone bitten by it will be lucky for a year.

203. Pink Mask [Gali/Pixie] 
Class D
This monster has a pattern of the Pixies' dance on its cloak.

204. Stone Mask [Gali/Golem] 
Class D
It is a guardian deity for the Golem species.

205. Scaled Mask [Gali/Zuum] 
Class D
Its mask is covered with scales like Dino and Zuum.

206. Fanged Mask [Gali/Tiger] 
Class D
It is a descendant from Tiger. Its mask is framed by fangs.

207. Furred Mask [Gali/Hare] 
Class D
It is a guardian deity for the Hare species.

208. Gali [Gali/Gali] 
Class D
It is said that its existence is close to that of God.

209. Suezo Mask [Gali/Suezo] 
Class D
Its single eye does not actually see anything.

210. Aqua Mask [Gali/Jell] 
Class D
There is no gelled portion on the body of this monster.

211. Colorful [Gali/Plant] 
Class D
It has a strong life force and loves peace.

212. Galirous [Gali/Monol] 
Class D
Its cloak is as hard as platinum and is as smooth as silk.

213. Brown Mask [Gali/Worm] 
Class D
There is an indescribable smile on its mask.

214. Purple Mask [Gali/Naga] 
Class D
It is a guardian deity for the Naga species and likes battle.

215. Happy Mask [Gali/???] 
Class S
Its bright expression make you forget about your worries.

216. Draco Kato [Kato/Dragon] 
Class C
It contains dragon's violent blood and likes battle.

217. Blue Kato [Kato/Tiger] 
Class E
Its quick movement makes its enemy confused.

218. Gordish [Kato/Gali] 
Class D
This monster seems to take a philosophical view of life.

219. Kato [Kato/Kato] 
Class E
It looks like an old cat, and loves to drink olive oil.

220. Citronie [Kato/Suezo] 
Class E
It likes using a fighting style that confuses its enemies.

221. Pink Kato [Kato/Mocchi] 
Class E
This monster likes its own cherry blossom colored body.

222. Tainted Cat [Kato/Joker] 
Class B
It rejects everything in this world and lives alone.

223. Ninja Kato [Kato/???] 
Class A
It originated from a Kato with master Ninja skills.

224. Pink Zilla [Zilla/Pixie] 
Class B
It has a beautiful white body, and strong confidence.

225. Gooji [Zilla/Tiger] 
Class B
With its huge horn, it can even sink a large ship.

226. Zilla [Zilla/Zilla] 
Class B
Few trainers keep it because it is a glutton and is too big.

227. Gigalon [Zilla/Jell] 
Class B
It was believed the ocean had eyes until it was discovered.

228. Deluxe Liner [Zilla/???] 
Class A
It swims confidently but there is something anxious about it.

229. Bajarl [Bajarl/Bajarl] 
Class C
It is naughty. When someone scolds it, it hides in a pot.

230. Jaba [Bajarl/Joker] 
Class B
It is said that this monster was made to be used as an assassin.

231. Boxer Bajarl [Bajarl/???] 
Class A
It has great footwork even without foot.

232. Magic Bajarl [Bajarl/???] 
Class B
It is considered to be a descendant from Magic in FIMBA area.

233. Ultrarl [Bajarl/???] 
Class A
It is said that this kind monster is a kind of hero of justice.

234. Mum Mew [Mew/Pixie] 
Class D
It is a Pixie monster that uses the body form of a Mew.

235. Bowwow [Mew/Tiger] 
Class E
This monster is related to the Tiger family.

236. Eared Mew [Mew/Hare] 
Class E
It doesn't want people to pick it up by its long ears.

237. Mew [Mew/Mew] 
Class E
This cat doll monster loves to sing very much.

238. Aqua Mew [Mew/Jell] 
Class E
A Jell, that had longed to be a Mew doll, has turned into this monster.

239. Swimmer [Mew/???] 
Class B
Training in the water will make the entire body toned up.

240. Phoenix [Phoenix/Phoenix] 
Class A
This is a legendary monster that never gives up.

241. Cinder Bird [Phoenix/???] 
Class S
Contrary to its looks, it is burning furiously inside.

242. Ghost [Ghost/Ghost] 
Class C
A dead monster, that was loved by its trainer, has turned into this one.

243. Chef [Ghost/???] 
Class A
It flies around cooking a large variety of food at one time.

244. Love Seeker [Metalner/Pixie] 
Class A
It is a Metalner combined with a Pixie to understand "love."

245. Metalner [Metalner/Metalner] 
Class B
It is considered to have come from a planet far from here.

246. Metazorl [Metalner/Suezo] 
Class B
It is combined with an expressive monster: Suezo

247. Chinois [Metalner/???] 
Class A
The dish that it cooked tastes so good that makes you smile.

248. Pink Eye [Suezo/Pixie] 
Class D
It will become depressed if it is not treated as humans.

249. Rocky Suezo [Suezo/Golem] 
Class D
It does not like sandy areas very much because it is quite heavy.

250. Melon Suezo [Suezo/Zuum] 
Class E
It loves fruits and sometimes encroaches on someone's farm.

251. Horn [Suezo/Tiger] 
Class E
In the IMa area, the horn of this monster is very very small.

252. Furred Suezo [Suezo/Hare] 
Class E
This monster likes adventure and is always exploring.

253. Orion [Suezo/Gali] 
Class D
It is said that a microcosm can be seen deep inside its eye.

254. Suezo [Suezo/Suezo] 
Class E
It is popular because of its human-like expressions

255. Clear Suezo [Suezo/Jell] 
Class E
It is a Jell monster that has transformed itself to Suezo.

256. Green Suezo [Suezo/Plant] 
Class E
Unlike other Suezo monsters, it's an earnest monster.

257. Red Eye [Suezo/Monol] 
Class E
Its red eye is due to the fact that it stays up late.

258. Fly Eye [Suezo/Worm] 
Class D
Everything it looks at is seen in a multiplied form.

259. Purple Suezo [Suezo/Naga] 
Class E
It thinks that to put forth its maximum strength is embarrassing.

260. Gold Suezo [Suezo/???] 
Class S
This is a very rare monster, for its body is the color gold.

261. Silver Suezo [Suezo/???] 
Class A
This is also rare, for its body is the color silver.

262. Bronze Suezo [Suezo/???] 
Class B
It is another rare one, for its body is the color bronze.

263. Birdie [Suezo/???] 
Class B
Say, "Nice Shot" when you want to praise it for its good work.

264. Sueki Suezo [Suezo/???] 
Class C
It is a man made monster, and its form is based on Suezo.

265. Pong Pong [Jill/Pixie] 
Class C
This one is a meat lover and a glutton.

266. Pierry [Jill/Tiger] 
Class C
This monster is used to gather lumps of ice in high mountains.

267. Wondar [Jill/Hare] 
Class C
It always forgets what it is supposed to do.

268. Bengal [Jill/Kato] 
Class C
All Jills are gluttons. This one loves to eat fruits.

269. Zorjil [Jill/Suezo] 
Class C
It has a high IQ and it often gets lost in its thoughts.

270. Jill [Jill/Jill] 
Class C
This legendary monster can be found in the snow mountains.

271. Skull Capped [Jill/Joker] 
Class B
It is scheming but not enough smart to deceive someone.

272. Pithecan [Jill/???] 
Class A
There is a scholar who says that humans are descended from this monster.

273. Manna [Mocchi/Pixie] 
Class E
It believes that it is the most beautiful monster of all.

274. Draco Mocchi [Mocchi/Dragon] 
Class C
Contrary to its cute movements, it is a violent monster.

275. KnightMocchi [Mocchi/Durahan] 
Class B
Some sections of its body have been hardened like armor.

276. Fake Penguin [Mocchi/Tiger] 
Class E
It is similar to a penguin, but they are not related at all.

277. Nyankoro [Mocchi/Kato] 
Class E
Since it is a descendant from Kato, it looks like and old cat.

278. Mocchi [Mocchi/Mocchi] 
Class E
Its sticky skin and cute movements attaract a lot of trainers.

279. Hell Pierrot [Mocchi/Joker] 
Class B
Though it is a descendant from Joker, it cannot turn into a complete fiend.

280. Gelatine [Mocchi/Jell] 
Class E
Its flabby looking body is actually firmer than it appears.

281. Gentle Mocchi [Mocchi/???] 
Class S
It is a phantom monster and only a skillful and lucky trainer can get it.
NOTE: The ONLY way to get this monster in the US and possibly PAL version is
to use a Gameshark, either to obtain the card, or to obtain the DNA capsule
with which to create it.

282. Caloriena [Mocchi/???] 
Class A
This monster never ceases its exercise and diet regiment.

283. Mocchini [Mocchi/???] 
Class B
It always wears black tights in order to protect its legs. It is a fast runner

284. Hell Heart [Joker/Pixie] 
Class B
According to legends, it was an atrocious monster.

285. Flare Death [Joker/Dragon] 
Class B
A descendant of a dragon has turned into an atrocious Joker.

286. Tombstone [Joker/Golem] 
Class B
This is a Joker monster with the strength of the Golem species.

287. Blue Terror [Joker/Tiger] 
Class B
It painlessly kills its enemy with one deadly attack.

288. Odium [Joker/Bajarl] 
Class A
It is said that its spell causes its enemy to be unable to move.

289. Joker [Joker/Joker] 
Class B
This monster was so atrocious that it was once sealed up.

290. Bloodshed [Joker/???] 
Class A
This is the most aggressive monster of all the Joker species.

291. Frozen Gaboo [Gaboo/Tiger] 
Class E
Its body temperature is always kept low even during summer.

292. Dokoo [Gaboo/Joker] 
Class B
It carries a type of poison that paralyzes other monsters.

293. Gaboo [Gaboo/Gaboo] 
Class E
Contrary to its scary appearance, it is earnest and shy.

294. Jelly Gaboo [Gaboo/Jell] 
Class E
It is similar to Jell, but it has no core like that of Jell.

295. GabooSoilder [Gaboo/???] 
Class B
This monster is hot blooded, but often make careless mistakes.

296. Pink Jam [Jell/Pixie] 
Class D
This monster smells slightly sweet. But it is inedible.

297. Wall Mimic [Jell/Golem] 
Class D
It likes to turn into a stone wall in order to tease people.

298. Scaled Jell [Jell/Zuum] 
Class E
Its gelled sections are harder than its scaled sections.

299. Icy Jell [Jell/Tiger] 
Class E
There is a type of confectionery that is modeled after this one.

300. Muddy Jell [Jell/Hare] 
Class E
This monster is not a descendant from Gaboo.

301. Noble Jell [Jell/Gali] 
Class D
This monster has high pride, but it is also very earnest.

302. Eye Jell [Jell/Suezo] 
Class E
This monster can see through everything with its eye ball.

303. Jell [Jell/Jell] 
Class E
It transfigures its gelled body and attacks its enemies.

304. Chloro Jell [Jell/Plant] 
Class E
It needs more water than other Jell monsters.

305. Clay [Jell/Monol] 
Class E
Though its name is Clay, it is rather similar to coal tar.

306. Worm Jell [Jell/Worm] 
Class D
Its eyes are located in the lower portion of its body.

307. Purple Jell [Jell/Naga] 
Class E
Its memory is so bad that it needs a lot of looking after.

308. Metal Jell [Jell/???] 
Class B
It is very rare. Even if you find it, it will run away quickly.

309. Siren [Undine/Joker] 
Class B
It has the ability to not only manipulate water but also wind.

310. Undine [Undine/Undine] 
Class B
This is a legendary monster living deep in the ocean.

311. Mermaid [Undine/???] 
Class A
This monster appears in fairy tales once in a while.

312. Ammon [Niton/Golem] 
Class D
It usually stays completely still in one place like a fossil.

313. Knight Niton [Niton/Durahan] 
Class B
Its shell is the hardest of all the Niton species.

314. Stripe Shell [Niton/Kato] 
Class D
This monster is very patient when fighting.

315. Alabia Niton [Niton/Bajarl] 
Class B
"Alabia" means to appear and disappear.

316. Metal Shell [Niton/Metalner] 
Class B
Its body is made out of a strange substance.

317. Clear Shell [Niton/Jell] 
Class D
Its gelled section is almost as hard as its shell.

318. Niton [Niton/Niton] 
Class D
When something surprises it, it hides in its shell quickly.

319. Baum Kuchen [Niton/Mock] 
Class B
"Baumkuchen" is German for "tree cake." This is similar to it.

320. Dribbler [Niton/???] 
Class A
"Kickball" is the most popular sport in the IMa area.

321. Radial Niton [Niton/???] 
Class A
It is said that there was a play titled "Cars" in the ancient era.

322. Disc Niton [Niton/???] 
Class B
It has a pattern design that looks like a disc stone.

323. Ebony [Mock/Joker] 
Class A
This monster lives to confuse and surprise humans.

324. Mock [Mock/Mock] 
Class B
This tree-like monster has a crooked character.

325. White Birch [Mock/???] 
Class A
It is more resistant to cold than other Mock monsters.

326. Pole Mock [Mock/???] 
Class S
It stands in dark places and eats bugs that were lured.

327. Blocken [Ducken/Golem] 
Class C
This monster's duck-like shape is made up of several rocks.

328. Ticken [Ducken/Suezo] 
Class C
It is said that it contains the secret of the lost technology.

329. Ducken [Ducken/Ducken] 
Class C
This toy-like monster is an artifact of the ancient era.

330. Watermelony [Ducken/???] 
Class A
On the beach, it is often mistaken for a watermelon.

331. Cawken [Ducken/???] 
Class A
Some people consider this monster to be unlucky.

332. Queen Plant [Plant/Pixie] 
Class D
This monster is considered to be the strongest in the FIMBA area.

333. Rock Plant [Plant/Golem] 
Class D
It brings forth buds out of hard rock. Its life force is strong.

334. Scaled Plant [Plant/Zuum] 
Class E
Its green body is luminous at night, so many people have it.

335. Blue Plant [Plant/Tiger] 
Class E
This monster is obedient, easy to take care of, and colorful.

336. Hare Plant [Plant/Hare] 
Class E
It is so active that it hardly ever remains in the same place.

337. Gold Plant [Plant/Gali] 
Class D
Noble people tend to like this flashy Plant monster.

338. Usaba [Plant/Suezo] 
Class E
It is more difficult to grow than any other Plant monster.

339. Mirage Plant [Plant/Jell] 
Class E
Its quiet character is often mentioned in sad songs.

340. Plant [Plant/Plant] 
Class E
Thought it's not powerful, it can win by attacking repetitively.

341. Black Plant [Plant/Monol] 
Class E
A soot-like substance makes its body black.

342. Fly Plant [Plant/Worm] 
Class D
It hates its name and is gets mad when someone calls its name.

343. Weeds [Plant/Naga] 
Class E
It can survive for several days without being fed.

344. Reggae Plant [Plant/???] 
Class B
This monster loves a certain kind of music very much.

345. Romper Wall [Monol/Pixie] 
Class D
It's so friendly that it often tries to take too much care of humans.

346. Obelisk [Monol/Golem] 
Class D
It is rather active, so it cannot be used as a stone wall.

347. Jura Wall [Monol/Zuum] 
Class E
Noodles, which are made by using its moist body, are tasty.

348. Blue Sponge [Monol/Tiger] 
Class E
You are guaranteed a good night's sleep if you sleep on it.

349. Furred Wall [Monol/Hare] 
Class E
Though it has fluffy hair, its body is hard.

350. Ivory Wall [Monol/Gali] 
Class D
It has the pattern of God that is embossed on its body.

351. Sandy [Monol/Suezo] 
Class E
Its conspicuous figure is easy to spot even if it has escaped.

352. Ice Candy [Monol/Jell] 
Class E
During summer, its body is cool and comfortable to lie on.

353. New Leaf [Monol/Plant] 
Class E
It'll be filled with energy when half of its body is buried.

354. Monol [Monol/Monol] 
Class E
It will separate into pieces to cushion against enemy's attacks.

355. Soboros [Monol/Worm] 
Class D
It has eyes unlike other Monol and can see its enemy.

356. Asphaltum [Monol/Naga] 
Class E
Ants try to make colonies in it, but it is impossible.

357. Galaxy [Monol/???] 
Class A
This monster relates to the Sky monster in the FIMBA area.

358. Dominos [Monol/???] 
Class A
These monsters like to gather and form a line.

359. Scribble [Monol/???] 
Class B
This monster is rarely found in the IMa area.

360. Rock Ape [Ape/Golem] 
Class D
It is a lazy monster and sits as still as a stone statue.

361. Gibberer [Ape/Hare] 
Class E
Female trainers try not to teach it some kind of techniques.

362. Bossy [Ape/Gali] 
Class D
Though it is one of the laziest monsters, it is quite capable.

363. Tropical Ape [Ape/Plant] 
Class E
This monster sprays a scent that decreases fighting spirits.

364. Ape [Ape/Ape] 
Class E
There are many legends regarding this one's laziness.

365. Gold Dust [Ape/???] 
Class A
It seems to be decadent, but it is actually a hard worker.

366. Red Worm [Worm/Pixie]
Class C
It may emerge as a beautiful monster once in a long while.

367. Rock Worm [Worm/Golem] 
Class C
It has beautiful eyes, but they do not work well in the light.

368. Scaled Worm [Worm/Zuum] 
Class D
It hides its legs and uses them only for quick movement.

369. Drill Tusk [Worm/Tiger] 
Class D
Its drill-like tusks can break even hard rocks into pieces.

370. Corone [Worm/Hare] 
Class D
A chocolate filled sweet pastry is named after this one.

371. Mask Worm [Worm/Gali] 
Class C
Though it is a descendant from God, it is not all that tough.

372. Eye Worm [Worm/Suezo] 
Class D
It has four fake eyes, and single real eye is usually hidden in its forehead.

373. Jelly Worm [Worm/Jell] 
Class D
Its flabby body cushions against its enemy's attack.

374. Flower Worm [Worm/Plant] 
Class D
The contrast of its red body and blue eyes is very beautiful.

375. Black Worm [Worm/Monol] 
Class D
This monster is used to carry heavy objects.

376. Worm [Worm/Worm] 
Class D
Its abilities are all in balance and it has no weak points.

377. Purple Worm [Worm/Naga] 
Class D
It frightens its enemies with its multitude of shiny eyes.

378. Express Worm [Worm/???] 
Class B
None can compete with its speed as long as it is on its line.

379. Ripper [Naga/Pixie] 
Class D
Its IQ is high, but it often mistakes itself for a human.

380. Trident [Naga/Golem] 
Class D
It likes to kill its enemies with one deadly attack.

381. Stinger [Naga/Zuum] 
Class E
It always holds its tongue out to cool its body temperature.

382. Striker [Naga/Tiger] 
Class E
Its obedient character is rare for the Naga species.

383. Edgehog [Naga/Hare] 
Class E
It is descended from the Hare species, but it is very violent.

384. Bazula [Naga/Gali] 
Class D
It is very careful and is rarely caught off guard.

385. Cyclops [Naga/Suezo] 
Class E
It is so clever that it often disagrees with its trainer.

386. Aqua Cutter [Naga/Jell] 
Class E
It is a Jell monster that is shaped in the form of Naga.

387. Jungler [Naga/Plant] 
Class E
It hides in the forest and hunts animals.

388. Crimson Eyed [Naga/Monol] 
Class E
It likes to damage its enemies little by little.

389. Earth Keeper [Naga/Worm] 
Class C
It won't forgive anyone, even humans, that destroy nature.

390. Naga [Naga/Naga] 
Class E
This one's cruel fighting style horrifies other monsters.

391. Time Noise [Naga/???] 
Class S
The secret goal of this one has is to obtain immortality.

392. Magma Heart [Dragon/???] 
It will immediately attack whoever invades its territory.

393. Sniper [Centaur/???] 
This monster is feared as the dominator of the Mandy Desert.

394. Sand Golem [Golem/???] 
It will not forgive anyone who breaks its quiet living.

395. Wild Saurian [Zuum/???] 
It is an active Zuum-type monster that has become wild.

396. Silver Face [Arrow Head/???] 
It has escaped from its trainers because of hard training.

397. Kamui [Tiger/???] 
It escaped being executed for killing humans.

398. Bloody Eye [Hopper/???] 
Its unique red eyes have caused it to be put on display.

399. Crescent [Kato/???] 
An evil spirit is dwelling in it because of a forbidden drink.

400. Zilla King [Zilla/???] 
It was awakened from an ancient sleep by a major earthquake.

401. Blue Phoenix [Phoenix/???] 
Unlike other Phoenix monsters, it is very violent.

402. Bighand [Jill/???] 
This kind of monsters are considered to be extinct.

403. Mad Gaboo [Gaboo/???] 
A tool to make it obey is buried in its forehead.

404. Burning Wall [Monol/???] 
This one escaped from its trainer while its stable was on fire.

405. King Ape [Ape/???] 
This monster is feared as the dominator of the Parepare Jungle.
NOTE: Only a very few people have been able to find this creature, and their
results have yet to be successfully duplicated. The only link seems to be that
the ape has to be found within the first 10 years or so of the game (get a
monster to B class or above and send it to the Intelligence errantry) and that
it may take an ape to do it.

406. Punisher [Naga/???] 
It is said that it was actually raised by another monster.

407. White Suezo [Suezo/???] 
It was raised very carefully because of its pure white body.

408. White Mocchi [Mocchi/???] 
It has changed the color of its skin in order to be conspicuous. 

There are several monsters in the Monster Rancher game which can only be
gotten in one specific way: that is to use a CD with the right data.
Generally, because of how unique disks are coded to be, this means that there
is technically only one CD per rare monster. 'Technically', because every now
and then, another CD's information will read to Monster Rancher 2 exactly like
one of those specially programmed disks, thus letting them make the secret
monster. In addition, there are a few monsters who had multiple disks
programmed in from the start. 

Many CDs have a number of different pressings as record companies release and
re-release them. This can make finding the right disk difficult sometimes. If
a new printing has even a half-second of extra space on the disk, then Monster
Rancher will read it as a completely different disk, working out the details
of the monster in the normal manner. Thus, it's quite possible to have many
different pressings of the same disk, and yet never get even a single version
that has the monster on it. Beck's 'Mellow Gold' is the prime example of this:
out of perhaps 30 or so attempts, only one disk was ever found with Moo on it.
So if you have a disk and it doesn't make the monster, cheer up. You're not

Why is there not a long CD list here to tell where to get the other creatures?
Because various pressings of various CDs can create completely different
monsters. In addition, the PAL and US versions are much different with which
CDs give which monsters. Not to mention the fact that a list like that could
go on and on for pages and pages. Therefore, aside from the ones that get rare
monsters, I'll leave the CD lists to other people and websites. There are
plenty of them out there, after all. http://monsterrancher.com is an excellent
resource for such things, as well as having the specific data for the rares
themselves, for those people who have the program CloneCD. And for that
matter, it's not too hard for you to catalogue your own CD collection. Plus,
it's fun!

PLEASE NOTE: This is for the US version only (unless the rare is accompanied
by (PAL) after it; if it is, then that version is *only* for the PAL).
However, if you have the PAL version of the game and know of rares I don't
have, please send the name of the CD in and I'll try to get it tested out and
add it to the info. Indeed, if you have a CD that makes a rare monster that I
don't have listed here for *any* version, I'd like to hear about it. The best
thing you can do is download CloneCD, make a file, and send that to me; that
way I can get it tested. Otherwise, the only way I'd be able to test and be
certain is for you to mail the CD to me, and I somehow doubt many people would
be interested in doing that. :)

Gold Dust (Ape/???)
"Velvet Underground And Nico" - Velvet Underground And Nico
(this disk has a huge banana on the cover)

Sumopion (Arrowhead/???)
"We've Come A Long Way Baby" - Fat Boy Slim

Boxer (Bajarl/???)
"Rush Hour" - Soundtrack
Knockout Kings (PSX Game)

Magic Bajarl (Bajarl/???)
Must slate a Magic Monster (of any type) from Monster Rancher 1

Ultrarl (Bajarl/???)
"X-Files: Songs In The Key Of X" - Soundtrack
Crash Bandicoot Platinum (PSX Game) (PAL)

Shishi (Baku/???)
"Homogenic" - Bjork

Eggplantern (Beaclon/???)
"Austin Powers: The Spy Who Shagged Me" - Soundtrack

Trotter (Centaur/???)
"Thoroughbred" - Carol King

Blue Thunder (Centaur/???)
"Under The Table And Dreaming" - Dave Matthews Band

Dice (Colorpandora/???)
Devil Dice (PSX Game)

Tram (Colorpandora/???)
"Downtown Train" - Rod Stewart
"Talk On Corners" - The Corrs (PAL)

Moo (Dragon/???)
"Mellow Gold" - Beck

Watermelony (Ducken/???)
"The Bearsville Collection" - Bobby Charles

Cawken (Ducken/???)
"The Crow: City Of Angels" - Soundtrack

Shogun (Durahan/???)
Brave Fencer Musashi (PSX Game)

Ruby Knight (Durahan/???)
"Third Eye Blind" - Third Eye Blind

Kokushi Muso (Durahan/???)
"Disney's Mulan" - Soundtrack

Gaboo Soldier (Gaboo/???)
Metal Gear Solid (PSX Game): Disk 1
Privateer 2: The Darkening (Computer game): Disk 3

Happy Mask (Gali/???)
"Millenium" - Backstreet Boys

Chef (Ghost/???)
"Enema Of The State" - Blink 182

Forward (Golem/???)
Tecmo Super Bowl (PSX Game)

Kung Fu Hare (Hare/???)
"Def Jam's Rush Hour" - Soundtrack

Skeleton (Henger/???)
"Mechanical Animals" - Marilyn Manson
"Appetite For Destruction" - Guns n' Roses

Frog Hopper (Hopper/???)
Gex 3 (PSX Game)
Rugrats: Totally Angelica Boredom Buster (Computer game)

Metal Jell (Jell/???)
"Terminator 2" - Soundtrack

Pithecan (Jill/???)
"The Flintstones: Music From Bedrock" - Soundtrack

Bloodshed (Joker/???)
"Metal Health" - Quiet Riot

Ninja Kato (Kato/???)
Tenchu (PSX Game)
NCAA March Madness 99
NBA Pro '99 (PAL)

Chinois (Metalner/???)
"Men In Black" - Soundtrack

Swimmer (Mew/???)
"Nevermind" - Nirvana (w/o bonus track)

Gentle Mocchi (Mocchi/???)
The only way to get the Gentle Mocchi was through the use of DNA capsules.
Unfortunately, the ability to get DNA capsules was taken out of the US version
of the game. Therefore, the only way to get Gentle Mocchi is to use a
Gameshark to obtain the capsules.

Caloriena (Mocchi/???)
Tecmo Stackers (PSX Game)

Mocchini (Mocchi/???)
Tecmo's Deception (PSX Game)
"Hypnotize The Moon" - Clay Walker

White Birch (Mock/???)
"Comparsa" - Deep Forest III

Pole Mock (Mock/???)
"Electric Warrior" - T-Rex
Tecmo USA has confirmed that this CD is the one that creates Pole Mock. If you
happen to have a copy of this CD (or another) that actually creates the Pole
Mock, get in touch with me! The information on the CD would be extremely
valuable as it's the one 'rare monsters' CD that Monster Rancher Metropolis
has not yet got archived.

Galaxy (Monol/???)
"Star Wars Episode 1" - Soundtrack

Dominos (Monol/???)
No One Can Stop Mr. Domino (PSX Game)

Scribble (Monol/???)
Slate a Doodle monster (of any type) from Monster Rancher 1

Time Noise (Naga/???)
Tecmo's Kagero-Deception II (PSX Game)
MECC Opening Night Behind The Scenes (bonus CD)

Dribble (Niton/???)
FIFA '99 (PSX Game)
Slate a Goal! (Disk/???) from Monster Rancher 1

Radial Niton (Niton/???)
Rally Cross 2 (PSX Game)
Slate a Radial (Disk/???) from Monster Rancher 1

Disk Niton (Niton/???)
Slate a Disk (Disk/Disk) from Monster Rancher 1

Cinder Bird (Phoenix/???)
"Backdraft" - Soundtrack

Poison (Pixie/???)
"Matrix" - Soundtrack

Kasumi (Pixie/???)
Dead Or Alive (PSX Game)

Mia (Pixie/???)
"The Woman In Me" - Shania Twain

Reggae Plant (Plant/???)
"Legend" - The Best Of Bob Marley And The Wailers

Gold Suezo (Suezo/???)
Combine a Silver Suezo (Suezo/???) and a Bronze Suezo (Suezo/???)
"Greatest Hits" - ABBA Gold (PAL)

Silver Suezo (Suezo/???)
"Fan Mail" - TLC
PC CD-ROM Microsoft Trip Planner 98 Version 6.0, packaged with Gateway PCs

Bronze Suezo (Suezo/???)
"Aenima" - Tool

Birdie (Suezo/???)
Tiger Woods 99 (PSX Game)

Sueki Suezo (Suezo/???)
Monster Rancher 1 (PSX Game)
"Aquarius" - Aqua (PAL)

White Hound (Tiger/???)
"Dances With Wolves" - Soundtrack

Mermaid (Undine/???)
"Disney's Little Mermaid" - Soundtrack

Express Worm (Worm/???)
"Licence to Ill" - Beastie Boys

Satan Claus (Wracky/???)
"Christmas With The Chipmunks" - The Chipmunks
"Merry Christmas" - Mariah Carey

Deluxe Liner (Zilla/???)
"Titanic" - Soundtrack

ZebraSaurian (Zuum/???)
"Waste Of Mind" - Zebrahead
"The House Of Groove - Arista's Most Fierce Tracks"

In addition to the rare monsters that can be unlocked by programmed disk,
there are a few disks that have been found with unusual statistics, extra
moves, more lifespan, or similar. If you think you've found one of these
strange creatures, the information would be very much appreciated, and added
to the below list.

Worm (Worm/Worm) (Has extra move: roll assault, and 20 extra weeks in
"Americana" - Offspring

Obelisk (Monol/Golem) (Has the stat gains and lifespan of a Monol/Zuum, and
the following stats: 25/25/25/25/25/25)
"Def Leppard's Greatest Hits Vault" - Def Leppard

Love Seeker (Metalner/Pixie) (Has extra move: UFO attack and possibly extra
"Legend" - John Lennon

This is a list of the various items which Monster Rancher 2 has available.
Each one of the items will have a description about what it does when used.
Remember that a monster can only be given one item every week. Therefore, make
certain to give them advantageous or necessary items before throwing treats
and presents at them.

For an explanation of numbers, one has to know how the monsters' statistics

Stress and fatigue are rated on a scale of 1-100. Each action raises or lowers
your monster's stress and fatigue, depending on what you're doing: 

Light Drill: +10 Fatigue/+5 Stress
Hard Drill: +15 Fatigue/+12 Stress
Errantry: +18 Fatigue/+7 Stress per week
Expedition: +70 Fatigue/0 Stress
Rest: -33 to -47 Fatigue/-5 to -10 stress
Win tournament: +37 Fatigue, -75 Stress
Do well in tournament, but don't win: +50 Fatigue, -62 Stress
Do poorly in tournament: +62 Fatigue, -50 Stress 

Fatigue + (Stress x2) = Lifespan Index
When the monster's lifespan index gets down to a certain level, it will lose a
week (or more) from its lifespan in addition to the base 'one week per one
week' loss that you get simply from surviving.

LI >= 70: -1 week from remaining Lifespan
LI >=105: -2 weeks from remaining Lifespan
LI >=140: -3 weeks from remaining Lifespan
LI >=175: -4 weeks from remaining Lifespan
LI >=210: -5 weeks from remaining Lifespan
LI >=245: -6 weeks from remaining Lifespan
LI >=280: -7 weeks from remaining Lifespan 
If the lifespan is at 250 or more, your monster will tend to get sick or run
away. Definitely try and keep that from happening at all costs!

Form is the rating of your monster's weight. The fatter your monster is, the
less damage it will take and the slower it is at dodging. The skinnier it is,
the more damage it will take but the more easily it will dodge. It has no
bearing on stress or fatigue.

Spoil and Fear both go into making your monster either doting or spartan in
raising style. The more spoiled the monster is, the more fond and doting it
will turn out to be. The more fear it gains, the closer to strict and spartan
it will be. In addition, the closer to 'Normal' your monster's raising style
is, the more loyalty it will have (if it is too spoiled or strict, it will be
harder to gain in loyalty). Therefore, this is something which has to be
balanced, or at least regulated through giving it the right foods.

Each monster has a spot listed for 'likes' and 'dislikes'. Although most of
the exact numbers are unknown, giving them items that they like will increase
the effect of them (for an example, Nuts Oil and the stress reduction, or
battle and the stats gains) while giving them one they dislike will either
decrease it or cause stress on top of the effects (like battle and the lower

I haven't added the selling price for many of these items yet. If you see one
that you can add in, let me know.

Foods are an unusual item, although they do have effects on your monster.
These can only be given at the beginning of a month, to the monster that's on
your farm between the 4th week of last month and the 1st week of the next.
They are not an item you have in your inventory, but rather a choice from a
list. Therefore, there's no 'sale price' on them as you can't sell them. They
do have different costs to feed them to your monster, however. Pay attention
to your monster's reaction when you feed them. If they 'cheer', the food is
liked. If they make the 'yuck' face, the food is disliked. And if they do
neither, it's neutral. This is above and beyond their 'likes' section. Various
monsters naturally 'like' or 'dislike' certain foods. However, whatever a
monster has in the 'likes' will supercede their usual reaction to the food.
For instance if an Arrowhead has a dislike for 'fish', then it'll be hated,
rather than liked as they usually do.

The effects are as follows (although not all monsters' likes and dislikes have
been catalogued):

Potato (10G)
Liked: +1 Spoil, -1 Fear, -1 Form
Neutral: +4 Stress, -4 Spoil, +3 Fear, -1 Form
Disliked: +16 Stress, -10 Spoil, +4 Fear, -1 Form
Monsters Like: Colorpandora
Monsters Neutral: Worm
Monsters Hate: Zuum

Milk (50G)
Liked: -3 Stress, +3 Spoil, +1 Form
Neutral: -2 Stress, +1 Spoil, -1 Fear, +1 Form
Disliked: +4 Stress, -4 Spoil, -4 Fear, +1 Form
Monsters Neutral: Worm
In addition, most monsters in their first 'stage' of life like milk even if
they go neutral later; the only ones who don't are the ones with an active
dislike for milk. This can help save on money for beginning trainers who are
still trying to get their coffers up.

Fish (100G)
Liked: -6 Stress, +3 Spoil, +2 Form
Neutral: -3 Stress, +2 Spoil, +2 Form
Disliked: +2 Stress, -2 Spoil, +1 Fear, +2 Form
Monsters Like: Arrowhead, Phoenix, Pixie, Zuum
Monsters Dislike: Worm

Cup Jelly (150G)
Liked: -7 Stress, +1 Spoil, -3 Form
Neutral: -5 Stress, +1 Spoil, +1 Fear, -3 Form
Disliked: +1 Stress, -1 Spoil, +1 Fear, -3 Form
Monsters like: Worm, Pixie

Meat (300G)
Liked: -8 Stress, +5 Spoil, +5 Form
Neutral: -6 Stress, +4 Spoil, +6 Form
Disliked: +1 Spoil, +1 Fear +6 Form
Monsters Like: Phoenix, Zuum
Monsters dislike: Worm, Pixie

Tablets (500G)
Liked: -15 Stress, +3 Spoil, +2 Fear, +3 Form
Neutral: -13 Stress, +1 Spoil, +2 Fear, +3 Form
Disliked: -10 Stress, -1 Spoil, +2 Fear, +2 Form 
Monsters like: Worm
Monsters dislike: Baku

These are the basic items that you can pick up at the shop. 
Mango: -10 Fatigue, +1 Form, +1 Spoil, +1 Fear
Sells for: 10

Candy: -2 Stress, +10 Form, +1 Spoil
Sells for: 60

Smoked Snake: -10 Spoil, +20 Fear, -10 Form
Sells for: 300

Apple Cake: +10 Spoil, -5 Fear, +10 Form
Sells for: 300

Mint Leaf: Stress reduced by 50%, -5 Form, -2 Spoil
Sells for: 100

Powder: +5 Fatigue, -24 Form
Sells for: 50

Sweet Jelly: +5 Form, makes more 'evil'
Sells for: 100

Sour Jelly: +5 Form, makes more 'good'
Sells for: 100

Nuts Oil: -28 Fatigue, +1 Spoil, +1 Fear (-1/5 stress for Hengers, Arrowheads,
and Durahans, as well as other monsters listed as 'liking' Nuts Oil)
Sells for: 100

Star Prune: +20 Fame, +5 Spoil, +1 Form 
Sells for: 500

The magic banana is a special case. It is a single item that has five
different possibilities added in. Each of the possibilities below can happen
with any feeding of bananas. Even resetting and trying the same banana can
give a different number.
-10 loyalty, +1 week lifespan
-5 loyalty
+5 loyalty
+10 loyalty, -1 week lifespan
In addition, there have been tests proving that if the monster has a low
enough loyalty (30 or less), it only takes the -5 effect of the banana's
loyalty loss (or even no loyalty loss if loyalty is at 0!) to gain in 1 week
of lifespan.
Sells for: 150

Drugs and medicines all raise monsters' stats, or give them bonuses in some of
their abilities, either in or out of battle. They might be good for a
short-term situation, but most drugs drop monsters' lifespans by a
considerable amount. Therefore, it's often not worth it to use them unless
you're ready for the cost they'll take.

Larox: +10 Pow, +10 Def, -10 Lif. -4 weeks lifespan total
Sells for: 1000

Manseitan: +10 Lif, +10 Ski, -10 Spd. -5 weeks lifespan total
Sells for: 1500

Troron: +10 Pow, +5 Ski. (lasts for four weeks) -10 weeks lifespan 
Sells for: 600

Paradoxine: +30 Pow, +30 Ski, -10% Spd, -10% Def. (lasts for four weeks) -18
weeks lifespan

Nageel: +50% Ski, +50% Def. -20 weeks lifespan (effects for one battle)
Sells for: 500

Kasseitan: +50% Pow, +50% Spd. -20 weeks lifespan (effects for one battle)
Sells for: 750

Teromeann: +50% Pow, +100% Spd. -20 weeks lifespan (effects for one battle) 
Sells for: 2000

Where drugs strip weeks of lifespan away from your monster, peaches do the
exact opposite, giving weeks of lifespan back to them. You can only feed one
per type to your monster, though, unfortunately.

Gold Peach: +50 weeks
Sells for: 4500

Silver Peach: +25 weeks
Sells for: 5000

This is for those items that can be found on expeditions, but nowhere else.
They're listed here only if they don't belong in a specific 'other section'.
Many of them are almost useless, but listed here for detail's sake. 

Irritater: +5 fatigue, +15 stress, -1 form
Sells for: 50

Griever: +10 fatigue, -40% stress, -1 form
Sells for: 50

Half-eaten: +1 form
Sells for: 10

God's Slate: Does absolutely nothing, but is considered a 'special item' by
Dr. Talico. Reads: The disk stones of the monsters, that were punished by God
have been sealed in here -- The Lemnos Shrine
Sells for: 50

Rock Candy: +1 form
Sells for: 350

These are items that have no use aside from being worth money to sell. Some
are found in expeditions, some are brought by monsters, and some are won in

Pure Gold
Sells for: 6000

Pure Silver
Sells for: 4000

Pure Platina
Sells for: 8000

Sells for: 400

Shiny Stone
Sells for: 750

Ocean Stone
Sells for: 1000

There are a few items which have an effect when simply left in your inventory.
Most of these, unfortunately, haven't got a great enough effect to make a big
difference (aside from the lump of ice/fire stone). At least they generally
sell well, even if they aren't as useful as they could be. Also keep in mind
that multiples of the same item are cumulative, though the extras don't take
effect until after the first one has. Example: Two sculptures, and a monster
with 100 fatigue. The first one drops it by 3. The second one checks, sees the
monster is at '99', and drops it by 2.
WARNING: These come into effect *after* any possible lifespan hits have
already been calculated. Therefore, they aren't an effective way to keep your
monster from getting the hits on lifespan. 

0 to 33 Fatigue: No effect
34 to 66 Fatigue: -1 Fatigue
67 to 99 Fatigue: -2 Fatigue
100 Fatigue: -3 Fatigue 

Gemini Pot: 
0 to 33 Stress: No effect
34 to 66 Stress: -1 Stress
67 to 99 Stress: -2 Stress
100 Stress: -3 Stress
Sells for: 2000

Lump of ice:
Increases effect of resting monster (-43 to -55 fatigue/-9 to -12 stress)
0 - 49 Stress : No effect
50 - 99 Stress: -1 to Stress
100 Stress: -2 to Stress. 
0 to 33 Fatigue: No effect
34 to 66 Fatigue: -1 Fatigue
67 to 99 Fatigue: -2 Fatigue
(The stress and fatigue loss only occurs in May, June, and July)
Sells for: 150

Fire Stone:
Increases effect of resting monster (-43 to -55 fatigue/-9 to -12 stress)
0 - 49 Stress : No effect
50 - 99 Stress: -1 to Stress
100 Stress: -2 to Stress. 
0 to 33 Fatigue: No effect
34 to 66 Fatigue: -1 Fatigue
67 to 99 Fatigue: -2 Fatigue
(The stress and fatigue loss only occurs in November, December, and January)
Sells for: 3000

Dino's Tail:
0 - 99 Fatigue: No effect
100 Fatigue: -1 Fatigue 
Sells for: 250

0-49 stress = no effect
50 - 99 stress = -1 to Stress
100 stress = -2 to Stress 
Sells for: 10

These are items which can be used in combining for various effects. Most of
these include the disk chips, though there are several other items as well
that can be used in this way, giving bonuses (or penalties!) to those monsters
which are made with their combinations.

Crab's Claw: +50 Defense, +50 Skill
Sells for: 2000

Taurus Horn: Gives a better chance of getting a centaur
Sells for: 2000

Old Sheath: -50 Defense(!)

Big Footprint: +20 Skill, +20 Defense

Dragon Tusk: Creates a dragon
Sells for: 3000

Joker's Mask: Creates a joker
Cannot be sold

Stick: Creates a ghost
Cannot be sold

Quack doll: Creates a Ducken (MUST be made with the strong glue)
Cannot be sold

Phoenix Feather: Creates a phoenix
Cannot be sold

Bajarl Pot: Creates a Bajarl
Cannot be sold

Spear: Creates a centaur
Cannot be sold

Zilla beard: Creates a Zilla
Cannot be sold

Big boots: Creates a Jill
Cannot be sold

Double-edged: Creates a Durahan

Undine Slate: Creates an undine
Cannot be sold

Disk Chips: When used in a combination, it both increases the chances of
getting the creature that matches the chip-type, and it gives a bonus
depending on the type of chip. Each chip is named in the 'item' menu, and they
are generally of different colors. They cannot be bought, so the prices
following each chip is the sale-price.

Ape: +1 symbol at Parepare Errantry (1000G)
Arrowhead: Adds Guard Battle Special (500G)
Bajarl: Adds Vigor Battle Special (1000G)
Baku: Fat/skinny +50 (500G)
Beaclon: +1 symbol on Pull drills 
Centaur: +1 symbol at Mandy Errantry
Color Pandora: +50 spoil effect (500G) 
Dragon: Adds Fury Battle Special (2000G)
Ducken: +50 Speed (1000G)
Durahan: +1 symbol on domino drills 
Gaboo: Adds Fight Battle Special (500G)
Gali: Good/bad +50 (1000G)
Ghost: +1 symbol on dodge drills 
Golem: +50 Power (500G)
Hare: Adds Grit Battle Special (500G)
Henger: +1 symbol on Shoot drills (1000G)
Hopper: Fat/skinny -50 (500G)
Jell: +1 symbol on endure drills (500G)
Jill: +1 symbol at Papas Errantry 
Joker: Good/bad -50 (1500G)
Kato: +1 symbol on meditate drills 
Metalner: Fear effect +50 (1500G)
Mew: Adds Hurry battle special
Mocchi: Popularity +50 (500G)
Mock: +10 weeks added to a creature's lifespan 
Monol: +50 Defense (500G)
Naga: Skill +50 (500G)
Niton: +1 symbol on swimming drills (500G)
Phoenix: +1 symbol at Kawrea Errantry 
Pixie: +50 Intelligence (1000G)
Plant: +10 weeks added to a monster's lifespan
Suezo: Adds Ease Battle Special (500G)
Tiger: Adds Will Battle Special (500G)
Undine: +1 symbol on studying drills (1000G)
Worm: +50 Life (500G)
Wracky: +1 symbol on leap drills 
Zilla: +1 symbol at Torble Sea Errantry (1500G)
Zuum: +1 symbol on run drills (500G)

Occasionally, your monster will simply give you an item as a gift. These items
are basically worthless in the scheme of things, as they give you no real
bonuses when it comes to raising monsters. All they generally give the monster
is a -1 to stress if it's a normal item, or a +1 to form if it's something the
monster can eat. Below is a list of the few exceptions to the rule. 

At other times, your monster will ask for specific items that you can't get
any other way other than through this. These items are often the same sort of
thing as they'll bring you, and have the same effect: -1 stress or +1 form.
Again, the only ones I list below are the exceptions to this rule. In
addition, if they ask for an item you can get some other way (candy, nuts oil,
et cetera) then look at that section of the FAQ.

Please note: this doesn't count the prices of the items as most of them are El
Cheapo. A few objects that are given to you can be sold for money, and
sometimes a not-inconsiderable amount; Golems bring you Shiny Stones which are
good to sell, Centaurs will bring you meteorites as well as Shiny Stones, and
Undines will sometimes bring ocean stones. Some other items might be worth a
lot of cash as well; these are just the ones I remember. Those especially
valuable items will be listed under 'saleable items'.

Olive Oil: -1 Stress, +1 Form
Perfume Oil: -2 Stress, +5 Form
Pile Of Meat: +12 Form
Parepare Tea: -1 Stress, +1 Form
Steamed Bun: +2 Form
Colart Tea: -5 Stress, +5 Form

In the Japanese version of the game, there was a minigame for the
Pocketstation which allowed you to obtain various special items, including the
rare and elusive DNA capsules. This has been taken out of the US version.
However, if probed with a Gameshark, the items are still there in the game's
memory, just locked away. Without access to a Gameshark (or Pocketstation)
I can't tell how much these sell for, so there are no sale prices for them.
Here's the effect of the Gameshark/Pocketstation-only items:

Sweet Potato: -5 stress, +10 form
Sells for: 150

Shaved Ice: -12 Stress, +1 form
Sells for: 150

Half Cake: +5 spoil, -2 fear, +5 form
Sells for: 150

Gold Medal: Unknown (maybe sale-only)
Sells for: 400

Silver Medal: Unknown (maybe sale-only)
Sells for: 200

Medallion: Unknown (maybe sale-only)
Sells for: 4500

Pink DNA Capsule: Creates a Gentle Mocchi (Mocchi/???)
Sells for: 50

Black DNA Capsule: Creates a Forward (Golem/???)
Sells for: 50

Gray DNA Capsule: Creates a Moo (Dragon/???)
Sells for: 50

White DNA Capsule: Creates a White Mocchi (Mocchi/???)
Sells for: 50

Green DNA Capsule: Creates a Gold Suezo (Suezo/???)
Sells for: 50

Yellow DNA Capsule: Creates a Mia (Pixie/???)
Sells for: 50

Red DNA Capsule: Creates a Poison (Pixie/???)
Sells for: 50

Why is this section labeled with quote-unquote? Because this is not a linear
game. There is no one, specific way to go about finishing the game, nor is
there any particular need for you to try and rush through as fast as you can.
As you can see from the above, there are a lot of different monsters to play
with, as well as a lot of different things to experiment with. However,
there are going to be people who want to know how to get through the beginning
of the game and get started right away, to try and see how fast they can
'win'. For them, I've written  this section. 

This is not going to be a week-by-week and month-by-month direction on exactly
how to raise your creature. Rather, this is going to be an explanation of just
how the game runs, where to go and what to do, and how the various systems and
controls work. For information on actually raising the monsters, go down to
'Raising Styles' or 'Step By Step'.

The basic controls of the game are as follows:
Control Pad: Moves through choices
Start: Pause
Select: (when paused) Gives the option to quit (which is essentially a reset).
Triangle: Cancels out of a selection (if possible)
Square: Brings up the info menu for monsters, cards, and breeder.
X: Makes the selections
Circle: 'Asks' Colt for more information on a specific selection

When you start the game out, you'll be allowed to tell them your name (of
course) and your sex. Once this is done, you'll be led through a brief wander
of the building, and then be asked several questions. Each of these questions
is a yes/no question, and all of them are a general personality test. If the
questions actually make any difference in the game, no one's yet been able to
find it, therefore, answer just how you'd like to answer these questions.
However you answer them, you'll be directed to where your assistant is
waiting. Trainer? Meet Coltia.

Coltia is the only choice that you'll get at a training assistant here, alas.
I'd hoped that the game might change trainers depending on your answers, but
it's simply not to be. Still, she's a helpful trainer's helper. Once she's
introduced herself and you two have talked, she'll offer to give you basic
game information. This information is on 'Trainer Asst', 'Tournament', 'The
Major 4', 'Disk Stone', 'Ranch', and 'No More' (which is the choice when
you're all finished up). I suggest that you go through these and let her
explain everything to you; some of the information here is very helpful.

Once you've done that, then it's automatically off to the city!

OK. Now you're in the city. Don't be afraid to use the Circle button to go
over the various choices and see what Colt has to say about them. It won't
give you a ton of information, but it'll give you good enough information to
know what you're dealing with. Let's go down through the menu while we're

Here is where you can either pick up a monster if you haven't got one, or
where you can sell off the present monster that you have, if you're so
inclined (not generally a wise thing to do; there are much better uses for a
monster that you've already got).

In the area of buying your monster, this is a fairly good place to get a first
creature; many of the monsters here are fairly good for beginning trainers,
and give a good feel for how to raise the creatures you'll get later. If you
either haven't got a CD available to unlock, or just don't feel like using
one, you can select one of these monsters as your monster at any time. It's
completely free. There is a selection of three monsters that you can get here.
Two of them are permanently here, while the third is one of four 'seasonal'
monsters for you to buy. The two permanent monsters here are Zuum and Mocchi.
Seasonally, the monsters are Suezo (spring), Arrowhead (summer), Hare (fall),
and Gaboo (winter). Really, IMO, the only way they could have made the
selection of 'first monsters' better would be to replace the Arrowhead with a

As for selling, the first thing you have to learn is that you cannot sell a
'baby monster'. Or rather, you can, but you get absolutely no cash for it. It
must have been raised at least somewhat for the people to have any interest in
buying it and as Wyola says, 'Stronger the monster, the higher the price will
be'. A rare, well-raised and powerful monster can garner a few thousand G,
which isn't all that bad, really... until you consider the amount of money
that a monster could make in fighting, in expeditions, or how valuable it
could be in combining. Really, in my humble opinion, unless you are
agonizingly hurting for money, keep your monsters around for combining rather
than selling them off. Still, the option is there for those who need. Or those
who are sick and tired of a specific monster type and just want to totally get
rid of it.

For those who are wondering how the payment in selling your monster works, I'm
unfortunately not positive. I expect that it has to do by their level of
stats, their rarity, and their rank, but aside from that, I haven't done any
calculating. It's been many years since I've even considered selling a
monster, for the above reasons. :)

The shrine is one of the most important places in the game. This is where you
go to get your monsters, aside from the market. When you go in here, you'll
have the option to get a monster off a Disk Stone (CD) or Slate (Memory Card).

Getting monsters off CDs is probably the most common, and arguably the most
fun, way to do it. It's also pretty darned easy. All you have to do is to get
out any CD, whether it be music, video game, computer data, or really almost
any type (barring DVDs; Monster Rancher 2 hasn't got the technology to read
and recognize those), put it in when you're instructed, hit the X, remove it
when instructed, and put Monster Rancher 2 back in. When that happens, you'll
get one of two messages. Either 'Here is the big moment.', upon which time
your monster is shown for the world to see, or 'I regret to inform you...',
which means that for one reason or another, the monster on that disk is
locked. Unfortunately, there's no way to know what sort of monster is on a
locked disk until you have unlocked the 'locked' portion of it. However, if
you know what's on there, you can hop to the 'Unlocking Monsters' section of
the FAQ and find out how to get it out of there.

The way Monster Rancher 2 calculates various monsters from CDs has to do with
a number of things, including the number of tracks, the length of each track,
the data itself, and a few other things. For a detailed look into how this is
done, check out Monster Rancher Metropolis' 'Laboratory' section. There, you
can find the technical research, plus the direct data for most of the rare
monster disks which can be duplicated with a program called CloneCD.

The second way the shrine can get monsters for you is through a technique
called 'Slating'. This requires that you have a Monster Rancher 1 save on a
memory card. Using that save, you can select one of the monsters off your 
Monster Rancher 1 save and raise it as a Monster Rancher 2 creature. Most of
them will play out as if they were the same type of creature, but for a few,
there are 'special' monsters that you can only get in that way. For those, check
out the 'rare monsters' section. In addition to these monsters being more
controlled, their stats are altered slightly by how well-raised the Monster
Rancher 1 creature is. If you have a baby monster, for example, it will
probably come out baseline. However, one that's been well-raised will have
several bonuses in numbers. They won't be humongous the way a properly bred
monster in MR2 would be, but starting out with even an extra 50-100 points in
various stats is a good start to any monster. 

Another of the most important parts, and arguably *the* most important when it
comes to getting good monsters. The lab is where your monsters are put in the
deep-freeze, as well as being combined. This is the area in town that has the
most choices. Here, you can 'Combine', 'Freeze', 'Revive', 'Delete', and

Combining, at its most basic level, is simply putting one and one together to
make a greater, stronger one. You select two frozen monsters, add in whatever
combining object you might want to add, and poof. You'll get a monster.
However, the act of combining is far, far more complicated than that.
Depending on the monsters' levels, their moves, and their stats, they can pass
on specific numbers to their children. Likewise, depending on how the numbers
line up, the baby's statistics can be higher or lower. If you're just a
beginner, the best thing for you to do, probably, is to simply focus on
combining for stats. Take two monsters of high stats and put them together,
working on trying to get a monster whose stats come the closest to matching
those. For a slightly more complicated and detailed look at combinations,
check out the section 'Combining'. And for an even more detailed look than
that, check out my FAQ on Combining. 

Freezing your monster takes it and puts it in a state of suspended animation.
No matter what age it is, it will stop aging, stop gaining or losing numbers,
and stop... well, everything as long as it's here. There is no limit to how
long a creature can remain frozen, either; if you felt inclined to freeze a
nearly-dead monster for a hundred years, it would stay right there until you
pulled it out, and be the same as if you'd just put it in. 

Revive is pretty simple: this is where you go to get the monsters out of the
deep freeze. Remember: you can't have a monster along with you if you want to
do this. You'll have to get rid of them somehow (freezing them, selling them,
or letting them die) before you can thaw a monster.

Delete is probably the most worthless option there is in most cases. 'Delete'
does just what it sounds like: it deletes a monster from the freezer. You get
nothing back for deleting it, either. If you have to get rid of a monster
fast, even selling it is better than this option. About the only thing
'delete' is good for is if you've accidentally filled your freezer with
worthless monsters and want to be able to freeze a present monster.

Analyzing requires that you have a live monster along with you; Dadge won't
analyze monsters that are in the freezer. When you choose this option, he will
check out your monster and tell you if it has any special abilities. If it
doesn't, he'll simply tell you that it doesn't have any noticeable
characteristics. If it does, then he'll give you hints on what it is by what
he says. Check out the list down in 'Battle Specials'. 

A short section, only here for the fact that all the menu choices are getting
their own sections: 'File' is where you either save your present game, or load
a past one. Remember: if you load a game, the present one you're playing will
be interrupted and the data lost. So make certain you save it first, if you
want to keep your progress.

This is the option that finally takes you out onto your ranch. Obviously, you
can't go here without having a monster of some sort, so make sure that you've
picked a monster up, either from the shrine or from the market. 

However, before we officially go to the ranch, I suggest that you hit the
'square' button for another menu. One that contains the choices 'Monster',
'Trainer', and 'Card'.

This screen takes you into a detailed look at your present monster. On the
first 'page', you'll be able to check the monster's stats, as well as its
present fame. Also on this screen, you can hit the 'square' button and get a
view of your monster which you can rotate, zoom in or out on, or even make
three animations through the pressing of the square, X, and circle button.
Triangle will back you out of it. Press 'R' to go on to the next page.

On the second page, you have your monster's battle record. Here you can see
how many battles it's won, how many it's lost, and how many times it won by
KO. There's a spot for win % as well. In addition to the fights, this page
shows how many times your monster has run away, gotten sick, gotten hurt, or
shown resistance. As a note: I'm not completely sure what 'resistance' is,
even after all this time. If someone can figure it out, please let me know!

On the third page is the more personal information about your monster. Here
you can tell the style you used on it (from 'Spartan' to 'Doting'), its
present form (how fat or skinny it is), what its nature is (whether good or
evil), and its likes and dislikes. All of these things have a very important
effect, as well. The style reflects on how much stress your monster can take,
as well as how easily it succeeds at its jobs. The stricter you are, the
harder you are on it, but the more it will succeed. Fat and skinny effect the
monster in battle: the thinner it is, the more it dodges and the more damage
it takes when it's hit. The opposite happens to fatter monsters. And nature is
a necessity for getting specific 'nature' aligned moves, as well as whether
your monster tends to cheat in its training, or whether it gets greats more

On the final page is the monster's list of moves. Here, you can check out all
the moves that your monster presently has, the details of them, and where in
the move list they happen to be. 

The option for 'trainer' takes you into a screen which allows you to get a
look at your various and sundry trainer stats. Here, you can see just how well
you've been doing. 

On the first page, you can see your general battle results. 'Result' shows you
the number of total battles that you've been through, in wins, losses, and
KOs, just like a monster's chart. It will also show your total purse, the
total number of monsters that have achieved each rank, and the number of times
you've won a tournament. At the bottom of the screen is your name, grade, and
how much money you presently have. 

On the next page, you can find out how many of each of the monster types
you've trained. It doesn't list how far they got, or anything like that, but
it gives you a look at every monster that you've found. This does,
unfortunately, include the monsters that you found on CD but didn't keep.

This is the place where all your monster cards are listed. Every monster that
you can create has a 'card' to them, and each of these cards has information
about the monster (although the information is in-game info, as opposed to
really important info). It will show a picture of the monster, the monster's
'grade' in the upper left corner, the card's number on the far right side, and
the information down below the monster itself. You can also press the square
button to get a zoom-in view of the monster, just like you were checking the
view out in 'Monster' mode. 

For those who are wondering, what 'grade' means is a basic view of the monster
itself, in rarity, strength, and likely various other things. This has, unlike
what many people will say, nothing to do with the grade you have to be to
raise it, nor the grade that the monster starts out. After all, if it was what
grade the monster started as, think about what you'd have to do to raise up
the S-grade Phoenix! 

Now that we've taken a look at the menu, let's officially go to the farm. Take
the monster that you've created and go to 'Ranch'.

Now, we've finally arrived on the ranch. It's time for your monster's first
feeding! More detail on what you can feed your monster will be in the 'items'
section, but for now, it doesn't really matter: we'll just assume that you've
fed it, and it's time to move on with the storyline. Pabs will show up for the
first time to introduce himself, and you'll also get yourself a letter about
cheap errantry. Neither of these are all that important, though (well, the
errantry could be, if you want to use that much money right off the bat; not a
good idea, though). Instead, check out the menu that appears here, because
here's the important list of things you'll use to go about raising your
monster. As before, don't be afraid to use the circle button to let Colt tell
you about each of the choices before you check them out.

This, obviously, is where you go to train your monster. Once you click here,
there are two options: 'Drill' and 'Errantry'. 

When you select 'drill', you're given a long line of various drills that your
monster can do. They are as follows:

Domino: Small raise in Power
Shoot: Small raise in Skill
Study: Small raise in Intelligence
Dodge: Small raise in Speed
Run: Small raise in Life
Endure: Small raise in Defence
Pull: Large raise in Power; small raise in Life; small loss in Intelligence
Leap: Large raise in Speed; small raise in Intelligence; small loss in Power
Meditate: Large raise in Intelligence; small raise in Skill; small loss in
Swim: Large raise in Defence; small raise in Life; small loss in Intelligence

NOTE: There is a bug in the programming of the 'Swim' drill. While the stats
that it raises are exactly as listed, it 'mis-reads' the way your monster
gains stats when it comes to this exercise. To that end, when using Swim, your
monster will gain Life as though it were Defence, and gain Defence as though
it were Life. For example, a plant who normally gains 5 in Life and 1 in
Defence will gain 1 in Life and 5 in Defence when using 'swim'.

When you send your monster out on the drill, there are a number of different
things that can happen. The two most basic are, of course, 'Success' and
'Fail'. If they succeed, they get a gain from the training. If they fail, then
there's nothing gained, and you have the option of scolding them or not. This
can help sway their attitude toward either soft or strict, depending on
whether you leave it alone or not. 

In addition to the above two, there is 'Cheat' and 'Great'. If they cheat,
they don't get as many points in the drill, but they also don't wear
themselves out as much. Scolding them swings their attitude toward 'good'
while leaving it alone swings it toward 'evil'. Great, on the other hand, does
the opposite: it gives a better result while still making it a little easier
on them (though not as easy as cheating). Praising them for a great makes them
good, while refusing to makes them go more evil.

As a final one, there is 'Truancy'. This is when you have been cruel to your
monster and yet continue to send him to training. In this case, the monster
simply doesn't show up for it. No thanks, Man; I'm going to be elsewhere.
Don't expect to see this one unless you're being *really* brutal to your
monster, or you're literally trying to kill it off.

At times, your monster will let you know whether it wants to do something or
not. It may either do a disapproving face, upon which time you know it doesn't
want to do that specific drill, or it will seem excited, upon which time you
know that it does. If it's disapproving, this increases the chance for a
cheat. And if they're approving, it increases the chance for a 'great'. Take
advantage of this if you're trying to make your monster good or evil!

Errantry is a little bit different. When you take your monster on an errantry,
you are putting them through a month's worth of training. In that month, they
will have four chances to get through various areas to gain in stats. In
addition, there is the possibility of them getting a move at the different
errantries. To find out whether they can get a move, listen to what Errow
says. If he says something about 'They may learn a tech', then trying it is
usually worth the while, because there is a tech to be obtained. If he says
'Will learn no techs', then obviously there's nothing to be learned. And if he
says 'It may be difficult' then you won't be able to gain the tech there, but
there is one to get. Either try to activate a tech chain (see 'tech chains'
under combat) or make your monster good/evil as necessary. Make sure that your
stats are high enough to get the minimums on the tech, though: Errow won't
warn you 'It may be difficult' if stats are the only thing holding you back.

As soon your monster gains a tech, a little lightbulb will appear beside the
gains in the tech area. Keep your eye open for this. Aside from them coming
back from their errantry and it letting you know at that time, this is the
only warning you'll have that it was successful.

Also, on errantries, there is the chance to fight a monster. To see which
monsters have been identified in the area, page through the 'cards' that you
are shown at the beginning of the errantry. If you have managed to beat all
four levels, then your monster may well meet up with one of these strays and
be forced to fight (note: you can't choose which one you fight; it's all
random). If it is, then simply keep your fingers crossed: there is nothing you
can do to control your monster. It'll fight on its own. The only thing you can
do is hit 'select' and tell the monster to give up (use 'select' like a normal
battle) if it's getting beat too hard and you don't want it to be knocked out.
However, beat those monsters, and you'll win yourself a reward. Usually, this
is only 1000G. However, if you can beat one of the 'enemy' monsters, you'll
get a whopping 3000G as well as the enemy card. Worth it!

Here are the various errantries, and what you can learn here:

Papas: Large raise in Speed; small raise in Life; primarily sharp techs
Mandy: Large raise in Power; small raise in Life; primarily Power techs
Parepare: Large raise in Intelligence; small raise in Life; primarily
withering techs
Torble Sea: Large raise in Skill; small raise in Life; primarily hit techs
Kawrea: Large raise in Defence; small raise in Life; special techs
Your monster will be unable to go to Kawrea until it is at least B-class. 

This command is pretty basic. It puts your monster down for a week of rest.
This is useful for relieving your monster's stress and tiredness, as well as
making up a little time if you don't feel like working your monster for that
week for whatever reason. It's very important to remember to keep your monster
rested, as exhaustion will lower its lifespan!

This is the command that everyone's waiting for. When your monster is powerful
enough to take it, he can be taken into various battles throughout the month.
Well, even if he's not powerful enough, he could be, but he's liable to get
toasted, so we'll assume the 'powerful enough' here. When you click on this
option, you bring up the calendar, showing you the various battles and when
they're being held. To go to a specific battle, you have to wait until that
date, then simply click on the battle in your menu. Colt will check if you
really want to go, and when you say 'yes', then off you go to the battles!

For each of the 'Official' tournaments that you win, your monster will go up
in levels. In addition, if it's the first time that level has been beat, your
trainer rank goes up. For instance, going from E-Class to D-Class will make
you a level 2 trainer. From D to C, a level 3. In addition, if your monster is
powerful enough, you can skip levels, jumping to the next highest and forgoing
everything below it. A C-class monster, for instance, can beat the B-class
battle and jump immediately to A, jumping your Breeder Rank in the same way.
This, however, isn't always suggested. Some monsters need specific ranks to be
unlocked (see the info on Mock in particular). Jumping over those could
accidentally 'lock' them out. Therefore, I suggest for the first time up, go
one step at a time.

For more details on combat, move lists, and battle specials, see the chapter

This command brings you to another two-part menu. Here, you can either 'Use'
an item, or 'Shop' for more.

Using an item means that you take one item out of your inventory and give it
to the monster (if the item can be given to the monster like that). Only one
item per week is allowed, no matter what item it is. So be certain of what you
want to give your monster before you give it to them. Items can have various
effects. Everything from making your monster happy, to increasing stats with
the drugs. And items can be got in various ways as well: on errantries, by
winning specific battles, and of course by getting them from Auntie Verde's

The command 'Shop' brings you into the store of Colt's aunt. She's a cheerful
old woman who's always willing to give a smile. When you go into Auntie
Verde's shop, you have a choice between 'buy' and 'sell'. Almost any objects
(aside from rare and one-of-a-kind combining items) can be sold to Auntie Verde
for cash. Use this to help keep your inventory free of trash and to make
certain that you've got a good income, especially on the disk chips that
you've got no use for. 

As for buying, Auntie Verde has a large selection of very important items for
trainers. Mint leaves and nuts oil are a must-have for many raising styles,
and for those monsters who need to gain or shed pounds, there are such things
as candy and powder. In addition, she occasionally has sales events, where all
the items she has are reduced in price. Take her up on this offer when it
happens and stock up!

This is the list of all the items which can be bought at Auntie Verde's shop and
their prices (on non-sale days). Note that at first, you will only be able to
buy the items up to Star Prune. All the rest of the items will come in little
by little, at around 140 weeks or so in between each one. To get these items,
just go into Auntie Verde's shop, and if something new has come up, she'll make
certain to let you know.

Remember: going into her shop regularly has the extra bonus of making certain
that you get the Mock seeds, rather than letting them fall out of your grasp.
To that end, make sure that you get them before Manseitan has appeared in the
store, as many people have complained that this is when they are locked out.

Cost: 60
Imported Fruit
Monsters love to snack on this tasty fruit.

Cost: 120
Imported Candy
Monsters will gain weight if they eat a lot of sweet foods like this.

Smoked Snake
Cost: 600
A Strong-smelling Food
Monsters don't like this much, but it's necessary for discipline.

Apple Cake
Cost: 600
A Mildly Sweet Treat
Monsters like this very much. Use it to reward your monster.

Mint Leaf
Cost: 200
A Refreshing Herb
Its scent and flavor relaxes your monster and relieves its stress.

Cost: 100
Powder For Fatness
This burns off unhealthy fat. Feed it to overweight monsters.

Sweet Jelly
Cost: 200
Sweet Treat
To feed sweet treats too much often spoils your monster.

Sour Jelly
Cost: 200
Sour Treat
This sour taste makes your monster brace.

Nuts Oil
Cost: 200
Extract from Nuts
This oil squeezed out of nuts helps a monster recover from fatigue.

Star Prune
Cost: 1000
Popular Tasty Fruit
It's rumored that a monster will become popular if it eats this.

Magic Banana
Cost: 150
Mysterious Banana
Its effect differs each time you feed it to your monster.

Cost: 1000
This will temporarily stimulate a monster's abilities.

Cost: 1200
Imported Medicine
This will stimulate a monster and help to make it more disciplined.

Cost: 1500
Medicine from the Far East
This will temporarily stimulate a monster's abilities.

Cost: 2200
Imported Medicine
"Pow." and "Def." will increase. However, "Lif." will decrease.

Cost: 3000
Medicine from the Far East
"Lif." and "Ski." will increase. However, "Spd." will decrease.

For more items and details on these ones, check out the 'Item' list in the
General Info section. These are just the bare essentials: the items sold by
Auntie Verde.

The final two commands on your menu are 'File' and 'Town'. These should be
fairly self-evident: File acts like it does in town and lets you save/load
your game, while 'Town' brings you back into the town area. 

Now, we've taken a look through the various menus of the games. We can assume
that you're doing some monster-raising. What else do we need to know about the
game? Well, for one thing, see that horrible, ratty barn that your monster is
sleeping in? See that scruffy house that you're keeping your things in? Both
of those can be upgraded. 

The barn and house are an important part of the game. Sure, they may just seem
like pretty background images, but there's much more to it than that. The
house is where you keep your items. The barn is, of course, where your monster
stays and sleeps. This means that they're both vital to the progression in the

When you first start, your barn only helps the monster rest a little bit,
while the house only has space for a total of 12 items. However, as you
progress through the game, going up in levels and advancing your cash, you'll
soon have the chance to update both of these structures to bigger and better
things. Take those chances as soon as they come!

Your stable will have two different upgrades possible: the first one appearing
after you've reached 4th rank and costing 15,000G, the second appearing after
you've reached 7th rank and costing 30,000G. For some of the big monsters,
you'll need the first barn upgrade to be able to raise at all, so make sure to
get it when you have the money. Plus, upgrading your barn relieves more stress
and fatigue per upgrade, making your monster healthier. Each of these upgrades
will show up on the 4th of May, so make sure you're on your farm for it and
keep your eyes open for him to appear. Incidentally, if you can't afford the
upgrade, Binto won't show up until you can, so don't be afraid if you're low
on cash when the trip to the 4th grade happens. Also, the game won't leave you
with less than 5000G, so you'll need more money than the base 15,000/30,000
for him to appear.

The house is upgraded in the same way as the barn, only in the house's case,
upgrading it allows you to carry more items: each upgrade you'll get will add
space for two additional items. The upgrades will appear at levels 3, 5, 6,
and 8 as long as you have the cash. For cost, it's 5,000, 8,000, 12,000, and

Every now and again, once you have passed C-class, your monster will be
invited on specific expeditions with one of three individuals: Kavaro, Rovest,
or Dr. Talico. They always come on the same date, thus giving you ample time
to be able to schedule your work around these if you feel like going on the
expeditions (and I highly suggest that you do; the money is good, as are the
items most of the time). 

Here's a list of the various expeditions and the basics you need to go on
them, as well as some of the 'feature items' that you might go looking for.
Remember: In all cases, your monster must have at least 50 fame in addition to
the other necessities.

Parepare (October 1): This is the easiest of the three to go to: Kavaro is not
terribly picky when it comes to his monsters. You only have to be C-class, and
have a monster with 140 Life. Of course, considering the walking that you need
to be doing, you should have at least 200 Life in order to have the steps to
get *something*. This is the only place in the game you can get gold peaches,
which raise your monster's lifespan. Make sure you know how to get to the Tusk
Tower to hunt down these valuable fruit! And don't forget the unlocking object
that's here. 

Torles (February 1): These wintry mountains are the 'home space' of Rovest.
Like Kavaro, he asks that your monster be at C-class, though he also needs for
it to have a minimum of 210 Life in order to go on the trip. Paradoxine, an
extremely dangerous and yet powerful drug can be found here and only here. In
addition, there is an unlocking object to find. 

Kawrea (June 1): The volcano is a special case. The first time you are invited
to this expedition, you need only be D-class, with a monster of pretty much
any Life total at all. Dr. Talico brings you to a straightforward path around
the volcano. However, when you reach the top, the volcano will explode and the
place will spread out considerably. Exploring the cave may very well find you
a combining item, though; try and get it now if you can! If you can't, the
next time you'll be able to go in, you have to be B-class, with a minimum of
280 Life. In addition, the pathways have gotten longer and more winding,
making it *much* harder to find things. There are two unlocking items to be
found here, as well as a mysterious item known as the God Slate.

For more details on how to get to specific items, see the 'expeditions'

Your monster has done all it can. If you let it go all that much further, it's
going to just die off. So what are you supposed to do with it now? Well, you
could get a little bit more money out of it by selling it or fighting it in a
couple more battles, but probably the best thing that you can do with that
monster is to combine it with another one to make a creature that's more
powerful... maybe. 

Combining is one of the most enjoyable and rewarding, and yet at times the
most frustrating and difficult parts of the game. Essentially, you are taking
a pair of monsters and 'blending' them together, turning them into one single
creature with (hopefully) aspects from both parents. 

Obviously, there is a great deal more detail to combining than this. However,
it would take up far too much space to print it here. Check out the
'Combining' manual in the in-depth guides section of GameFAQs. There, the
major details of exactly how combining works will be shown. However, for here,
there's a short version of how to get the most out of your combination. 

First off, try and choose two monsters with a stat-gain which are very similar
to one another. A Pixie and a Suezo, for example, or a Pixie and a Kato. From
there, try to raise the stats in line with one another. If you can manage
that, then you've got a better chance of getting a good or great combination.
And good or great combinations tend to have a better chance of giving good
stats or multiple moves right off the bat.

This, of course, is for the easier combinations to make. For the more
difficult combinations, you may have to do it with trial and error, or be
satisfied with fairly small gains if you can't get the numbers you're hoping
for. Alas, at times, even with the best-laid plans of combination, the
creatures may not combine well, or they may not ever be able to make an
excellent combination. Still, even in the lowest level, you'll often get
better numbers than if the baby had just started out. Therefore, even if
you're combining two things as unlike as a Dragon and a Metalner, don't be
afraid to give it a try. You might find that that Gidras, even if it hasn't
got awesome stats at birth, is better than you could have hoped. And most
importantly, as long as both parents had a good move list, you'll generally
get a baby with a number more moves than the basic two. A total of six moves
is the most common number, though monsters combined in their prime tend to
pass more moves on. My suggestion, however, is that for your first
combinations, work the monsters almost dry before combining them. The more
money those monsters can make you, the better you'll be able to treat later
monsters and the more you can afford to 'lose' with combining them that

When you go to combine two creatures, Dadge always gives his opinion on what
the combination is worth. Here, in order, is what he says and how close to
'aligned' those two creatures happen to be:

No stats match: 'This one's all up to you'

One stat matches: 'The prospect is unsure'

Two stats match: 'This combination doesn't look so good, I can't recommend it'

Three stats match: 'The prospect is fine... It will probably work out'

Four stats match: 'The prospect of this combination is good. You can look
forward to it.'

All six stats match: 'The prospect of this combination is great. It can't go
wrong unless something weird happens.' 

This refers to how well the statistics line up only. It has nothing to do with
the moves, the baby, or the chances of things passing over. Still, the closer
stats are to one another, the better chance you'll get of having a good
combination. The one caveat in this: if the monster is the *exact* same breed
on both sides (example, you're combining a Pixie x Pixie or a Tiger/Hare x
Tiger/Hare) the rating will always read the worst possible one ('This one's
all up to you'). This is the game's way of keeping it from being too easy to
make your super-monsters.

Once you've done combining, there are usually multiple creatures that the
combination can make. Some of them have a greater chance than others, of
course, but almost any combination will show up if it can be made.

Every now and again, as mentioned above, your monster will be invited out upon
expeditions. Within these expeditions, you can gain a lot of things: items
worth selling, rare disk chips that you can't obtain anywhere else, items that
are a great boon in raising your monster, and of course the valuable unlocking
items to get you some of those monsters that you couldn't otherwise get.
Therefore, it's extremely worth your while not to pass up the chance to go on
these expeditions at times, since you'll need them to get some of the more
valuable objects in the game.

As a hint: while simply turning 'random creature' into your expedition monster
is fine and good, it's usually a good idea to keep a specific monster in your
freezer to take the trips for you. Simply raise a creature with good Life,
Power, and Intelligence and don't bother much with its move list (since you'll
likely just be using it for expeditions anyway; just get enough moves to be
able to get up to class B so it can go to all three of the expeditions). In
addition, this keeps expeditions from taking too much lifespan off the other
creatures that you're raising; let the one monster eat the losses, and you'll
be just fine. Just take them out on the final week before the Expedition, rest
them, send them out, and feed them a nuts oil when they get back. Worms are
probably one of the best creatures for this job, with their high Life scores
and average Intelligence and Power, though the plant's high Life and good
Intelligence together make them an awesome force in the 'expedition' area as
well, so long as you don't have to break down any walls. I, myself, keep a
worm around as a permanent peach-hunter in the Parepare area, and to get
Paradoxine in the Torles area. When it outlives itself, I combine it for the
next generation and continue like that.


     o o o   t   t       o o o o X o o o o     o o o   St
     o       o   o       o               o     o   o   o
     o   C   o o o   o   o o o o o o o   o o o o X o o o
     o   o     o     o               o
     o   o o o o o o o   o   o o o o o X o o o o o o o T2
     o         o         o   o
     o o o o o X o o o o o   o         T1  o
               o             o o o o o o   o o o o o X o
       o o o   o   o o o o o o       o     o         o o
     o o   o   o o o         o o     o S o o         o o
     o     o   o               o o o o     o o o o   o o
     o o   o   o                     o           o   X o
       o   o S o               C     o   Tower   o   o o
     o o   o   o               o     o     o     o   o X
     o     o   o               o o o o o o o     o   o o
     o o   o   o       P                   o     C   o X
       o   o   o o o   o o o o o o o o o o o           o
     o o   o       o     S                         o o o
     o     o o o   o   o o o o o o o o o o o o o o X   o
     o o       o   o   o                           o o o
       o   C   o   o   o   o o o o T2  t     t         o
       o   o   o   o   o   X           o     o     t   o
     o o   o   o o o   o o o           o     o     o   o
     o     o               o o o o o o o o o o o o o   o
     o   o o o               o                         o
     1 o o   o o o o o o o o 2 o o o o o o o o o o o o o
                         Base Camp

S = Secret Path
X = Obstacles
T = Teleport 
1,2 = Where the teleports go to
C = Cave
t = Tree
P = Crack
Tower = Tower
St = Snowman Statue


Tree: Strong glue (see 'unlocking Ducken'), Chunk of ice, Ducken Disk Chip,
Mock Disk Chip

Crack: Paradoxine, Chunk of ice, Metalner disk chip, sour jelly

Snowman statue: Fire stone, Big footprint (see 'unlocking Jill')



                           o o o X o   Te
     E o o o o o o T1      o   o   o   o
               o           o   o   o   o
     o o o o o o       1 o o   o   o   X
     o     S           o       o   o   o
     o o o o o o       o o o   o   o   o
         o     o           o   o   o o o
      Te o X   o   D       o   o
         o o o o   o       o   o o o
         o         o   I   o       o
         o         X   o   o       o
 House   o   Sh    o   o   o   B   o   A
     o   o   o     o o o   o   o   o   o
     X o o X o     o       o o X   o X o
         o   S     o       o       o
         o   o o S o o o o o X     o
     o o o                   o A   o o o
     o   X                         X   o
     o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
                 Base Camp

X = Obstacles
S = Secret Path
T = Teleport
1 = Where the teleport goes to
I = Ivory Tower
D = Durahan Temple
E = Elephant Statue
A = Arena
Sh = Shrine
Te = Temple


Ivory Tower: Gold Peach, Henger Disk Chip, Tiger Disk Chip, Colorpandora Disk

Durahan Temple: Old Sheath (See 'unlocking Durahan), Larox

Elephant Statue: Undine Disk Chip

Shrine: Pure Silver


           o o o o o o 2 o o X o o o o o o o LT
     o o o o
     o                 o o o S o o o o o o
     o o o o o o   T2  o   o     o       o o
     o         o o o o o X o     o         o o
     o o o o               o     o o o       o o o     A
           o   o X o R     o         o           o o   o
           o o o           o         o             o o o
               o           o         X   
               o       o X o o o o o o o o o
               o     o o             o     o        
     H o o     o   o o               o     o o o o     C 
    SH o o     o   o                 X           o     o
         o     o   o       PS        o           o o o o
     o o o     o   o       o     o o o o o o           o
     o         o   o o o o o     o         o           o
     o S o o o o                 o         o           o
     2     o           C o o     o   C o X o o o o o o o
     o     o o o o         o     o               o
     o           o         X     S               o
     o           o o o     o     o     X o o SH  o
     o o o X         o     o     o     o         o o o o
           o         o o o o o o o     o               o 
          T1   1             o         o               o
               o             o         o               o
               X o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
                         Home Camp

X = Obstacles
S = Secret path
T = Teleport
1  = Where the teleport goes to (note: T2 seems to be semi-random, thus the
multiple spots)
C = Cave
SH = Storehouse
H = House
R = Ruin
A = Burnt Altar
LT = Lava Tower

Burnt Altar (4 items): Joker Mask (see 'unlocking Joker'), Wracky Disk Chip,
Dragon Disk Chip, Metalner Disk Chip, Star Prune, Joker Disk Chip

Storehouse (6 items): Dragon Disk Chip, Golem Disk Chip, Pixie Disk Chip,
Ducken Disk Chip, Baku Disk Chip, Centaur Disk Chip, Wracky Disk Chip,
Metalner Disk Chip, Tiger Disk Chip

House (6 items): Metalner Disk Chip, Baku Disk Chip, Tiger Disk Chip, Wracky
Disk Chip, Ducken Disk Chip, Golem Disk Chip, Pixie Disk Chip

Cave (3 items): Jell Disk Chip, Suezo Disk Chip, Ape Disk Chip, Dragon Disk
Chip, Undine Disk Chip, Niton Disk Chip

Phoenix Statue (4 items): Phoenix Feather (see 'unlocking Phoenix'), Phoenix
Disk Chip, God Slate, Larox

Lava Tower (5 items): Mint Leaf, Rock Candy, Pure Silver, Dino Tail, Gali Disk
Chip, Zilla Disk Chip

Ruin (5 items): Apple Cake, Star Prune, Mint Leaf


Control Pad Left and Right: Moves your monster closer to or further from the
Control Pad Up and Down: Nothing
Start: Pause
Select: Gives you the option of surrendering
Select: (when paused) Gives the option to quit
Triangle: Pushes back from the enemy if you're in close
Square: Shows you the name of the move your cursor is presently on
X: Uses the attack you're in range for
Circle: Scrolls through the various moves
L1&R1: Scrolls left and right through your attack list

These are the movelists for the various monster types. Each of these is in a
chart that displays the moves in a 'grid' format which corresponds to where
the move appears in the monster's battle grid. Here's how the labeling works:

|NAME        |
|  TYPE      |

NAME: The move's name.
TYPE: The type of move it is. In other words, what stat it uses to decide
damage to the opponent.
COST: The cost in guts.
STATISTICS: Each move has a set of four 'stats' in this order: Damage, Hit,
Withering, Sharpness. Damage refers to the level of damage it does. Hit refers
to how easy the tech is to hit with. Withering refers to how much of the
opponent's guts it saps away when you hit with it. Sharpness refers to how
often you'll get critical hits with it, doing extra damage.
TYPE: What 'type' of tech this tech is. This refers to which of the errantries
you have to go on to get the tech. 

Some special references:
EVIL/GOOD TECH: Some techs can only be gained by monsters with a certain
disposition. Good techs need a 'good' monster, while evil techs require an
'evil' monster. Primarily, evil techs are withering and good techs are sharp,
but this isn't a constant. If a tech has little 'anime eyes' on it, then it's
a good/evil tech. The eyes make it fairly obvious which is which.
HEALING: A tech which can't actually do damage, but heals the monster using it
if it hits.
DRAIN TECH: This move steals Life from the opponent and gives it to the
monster using it.

Some of the monsters have techs that can 'only be learned' by specific monster
combinations, often known as 'crossover' moves. However, occasionally these
crossover moves can appear after a combination, even if the creature it's
being put on is not of that subtype. Therefore, it's usually worth it to
combine and see if the move passes on. Particularly since many crossover moves
are fairly powerful (and if nothing else, generally look really good). 

---------------------Ape Techniques----------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Big Banana   |Boomerang    |Thwack       |Slap         |
|  Int  28    |  Int  18    |  Pow  16    |  Pow  13    |
|  D/S/D/E    |  D/A/E/E    |  C/B/E/-    |  D/A/E/-    |
|  Hit        |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Roll Assault |Grab-Throw   |Blast  [1]   |Sneeze       |
|  Pow  27    |  Pow  18    |  Int  26    |  Int  16    |
|  A/D/D/E    |  B/D/E/E    |  C/D/B/E    |  D/D/C/E    |
|  Heavy      |  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Withering  |
|Bomb         |                           |Swing-Throw  |
|  Int  19    |                           |  Pow  50    |
|  C/D/D/C    |                           |  S/D/B/D    |
|  Sharp      |                           |  Special    |
+-------------+                           +-------------+
|Big Bomb [1] |
|  Int  26    |
|  C/B/D/C    |
|  Sharp      |
|Tasty Banana |
|  Int  40 [2]|
|  B/E/-/- [3]|
|  Special [4]|

[1] = Evil tech
[2] = Good tech
[3] = Healing
[4] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn

-------------------Arrowhead Techniques------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Hidden Sting |Claw Assault |Long Punch   |Punch        |
|  Pow  27    |  Pow  12    |  Pow  19    |  Pow  10    |
|  C/S/E/E    |  D/B/-/E    |  C/A/E/E    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Energy Shot  |Jumping Claw |Sting        |Claw Pinch   |
|  Int  18    |  Pow  16    |  Int  16    |  Pow  29 [5]|
|  E/A/C/E    |  D/C/E/C    |  D/A/E/E    |  B/D/E/E    |
|  Withering  |  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Heavy      |
|Energy Shots |Aerial Claw  |Triple Stings|Blood Suction|
|  Int  25    |  Pow  21    |  Int  29    |  Pow  50 [1]|
|  D/A/B/E    |  D/C/D/C    |  C/S/D/E    |  B/D/-/- [3]|
|  Withering  |  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Special [4]|
|Javelin      |Aerobatics   |Tail Swing   |Somersault   |
|  Pow  24 [1]|  Pow  45    |  Pow  16    |  Pow  26 [2]|
|  C/D/C/B    |  C/A/B/E    |  C/D/E/E    |  C/B/D/B    |
|  Sharp      |  Special    |  Heavy      |  Sharp Tec  |
|Roll Assault |Meteor       |Tail Swings  |Somersaults  |
|  Pow  32 [1]|  Int  45    |  Pow  23    |  Pow  50    |
|  S/D/E/E [4]|  S/D/C/E    |  B/D/D/E    |  A/B/C/A    |
|  Heavy      |  Special    |  Heavy      |  Special    |
|Fist Missile |Cyclone      |Death Scythe |Sting Slash  |
|  Pow  19 [2]|  Pow  50 [7]|  Pow  30 [8]|  Pow  30    |
|  D/A/E/C [5]|  S/E/C/D    |  D/A/D/A    |  D/A/D/A    |
|  Special [6]|  Special    |  Sharp      |  Sharp      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Drain Tech
[4] = Requires 450 Power to learn
[5] = Requires 350 Power to learn
[6] = Available Only for Renocraft (Arrowhead/Hengar)
[7] = Available Only for Priarocks (Arrowhead/Golem)
[8] = Available Only for Selketo (Arrowhead/Joker)

--------------------Bajarl Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Mystic Punch |1-2-Smash    |Left Jab     |Hook         |
|  Pow  35 [2]|  Pow  36 [2]|  Pow  10    |  Pow  25    |
|  A/D/D/E    |  S/E/C/E    |  E/A/-/-    |  B/E/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Basic      |  Heavy      |
|Magic Pot    |Magic Punch  |Right Jab    |
|  Int  35 [1]|  Pow  26    |  Pow  12    |
|  C/D/-/- [3]|  B/D/E/E    |  D/B/-/E    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Basic      |
|Mystic Pot   |Mystic Combo |1-2 Hook     |
|  Int  45 [1]|  Pow  39 [2]|  Pow  30    |
|  -/D/B/- [4]|  B/B/D/C    |  A/E/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Heavy      |
|Miracle Pot  |             |Straight     |
|  Int  60 [1]|             |  Pow  20    |
|  B/E/B/- [5]|             |  C/D/E/E    |
|  Special    |             |  Heavy      |
+-------------+             +-------------+
|Bajarl Beam  |             |Uppercut     |
|  Int  40    |             |  Pow  21    |
|  C/A/C/E    |             |  D/C/E/C    |
|  Special    |             |  Sharp      |
+-------------+             +-------------+
                            |1-2-Uppercut |
                            |  Pow  29    |
                            |  C/B/D/C    |
                            |  Sharp      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Drain Tech
[4] = Guts-draining Tech
[5] = Life and guts draining Tech

---------------------Baku Techniques---------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Gust Breath  |Diving Press |Charge       |Dust Cloud   |
|  Pow  19    |  Pow  30    |  Pow  13    |  Pow  10    |
|  C/A/E/E    |  S/E/C/C    |  D/D/-/E    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Hypnotism    |Sneeze       |Roar         |Bite         |
|  Int  21    |  Int  20    |  Int  19    |  Pow  15    |
|  D/C/D/A    |  D/D/C/E    |  D/C/D/C    |  D/C/E/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Sharp      |  Hit        |
|Nap          |Mating Song  |Two Roars    |Two Bites    |
|  Int  30 [2]|  Int  32    |  Int  26    |  Pow  25    |
|  B/E/-/- [3]|  D/D/B/E    |  C/D/E/B    |  C/A/D/E    |
|  Special [4]|  Withering  |  Sharp      |  Hit        |
              |Foul Wind    |Million Roars|Three Bites  |
              |  Int  35 [1]|  Int  34    |  Pow  33    |
              |  C/D/A/E    |  A/D/C/C    |  B/D/B/E    |
              |  Special    |  Special    |  Special    |
                                          |Tongue Slap  |
                                          |  Pow  25    |
                                          |  A/D/D/E    |
                                          |  Heavy      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Healing
[4] = Requires 450 Intelligence to learn

-------------------Beaclon Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Top Assault  |Dive Assault |Spinning Horn|Punch        |
|  Pow  17    |  Pow  18    |  Pow  25 [1]|  Pow  10    |
|  D/S/E/E    |  C/D/E/E    |  D/D/B/E    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Rolling Bomb |Spiral Dive  |Punch Combo  |Heavy Punch  |
|  Pow  25 [2]|  Pow  26    |  Pow  42    |  Pow  16    |
|  C/A/E/E    |  B/D/E/E    |  A/D/D/C    |  D/A/E/E    |
|  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Special    |  Basic      |
|Flying Press |Tremor       |Beaclon Combo|Maximal Punch|
|  Pow  27 [6]|  Int  20    |  Pow  50    |  Pow  22    |
|  A/E/D/E    |  E/C/C/E    |  S/D/C/C    |  C/B/D/D    |
|  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Special    |  Basic      |
|Horn Cannon  |Horn Combo   |Triple Stabs |Horn Strike  |
|  Int  17    |  Pow  22 [7]|  Pow  34 [3]|  Pow  13    |
|  D/D/D/C    |  C/D/D/A    |  C/D/B/E    |  D/B/-/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Frantic Horn |Horn Smash   |             |Horn Attack  |
|  Int  55    |  Pow  50    |             |  Pow  18    |
|  B/A/B/C    |  B/A/C/C    |             |  C/B/-/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |             |  Basic      |
+-------------+-------------+             +-------------+
|Fist Missile |Earthquake   |
|  Pow  30 [4]|  Int  40 [5]|
|  C/D/D/A    |  B/E/A/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Available only for Ducklon (Beaclon/Ducken)
[4] = Available only for Melcarba (Beaclon/Henger)
[5] = Available only for Rocklon (Beaclon/Golem)
[6] = Requires 350 Power to learn
[7] = Requires 300 Power to learn

-------------------Centaur Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Rush Slash   |RearLeg Kick |Turn Stab    |Smash        |
|  Pow  18    |  Pow  11    |  Pow  18    |  Pow  13    |
|  B/D/E/E    |  D/A/E/-    |  D/S/E/E    |  D/A/-/E    |
|  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Hit        |  Basic      |
|Energy Shots |Energy Shot  |Mind Flare   |Smash Combo  |
|  Int  25    |  Int  17    |  Int  22 [5]|  Pow  20    |
|  D/C/B/E    |  E/C/C/E    |  D/C/C/E    |  C/A/E/E    |
|  Withering  |  Withering  |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Jump Javelin |Javelin      |Mind Blast   |Triple Stabs |
|  Pow  26    |  Pow  17    |  Int  27    |  Pow  27    |
|  C/C/D/S    |  D/C/E/E    |  C/D/B/E    |  C/S/E/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Hit        |
|Meteor Drive |Death Thrust |Cross Slash  |Stab-Throw   |
|  Pow  50 [3]|  Pow  35 [1]|  Pow  45 [2]|  Pow  28    |
|  S/D/D/C    |  S/E/D/E [3]|  C/A/C/A [3]|  A/E/E/E [4]|
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Special    |  Heavy      |
                                          |Z Smash      |
                                          |  Pow  55 [2]|
                                          |  B/A/B/A    |
                                          |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 450 Power to learn
[4] = Requires 350 Power to learn
[5] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn

-----------------ColorPandora Techniques-----------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Shotgun      |Cracker      |Tail Swing   |Face Attack  |
|  Int  18    |  Pow  18    |  Pow  10    |  Pow  12    |
|  D/S/E/E    |  E/C/C/E    |  E/A/E/-    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Hit        |  Withering  |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Megashotgun  |Megacracker  |Two Swings   |Giant Whip   |
|  Int  24    |  Pow  30    |  Pow  14    |  Pow  17    |
|  C/A/E/E    |  D/C/A/E    |  D/A/E/-    |  B/D/E/E    |
|  Hit        |  Withering  |  Basic      |  Heavy      |
|Giant Wheel  |Triple Shots |Kamikaze     |
|  Pow  29 [5]|  Pow  18    |  Pow  28 [4]|
|  A/E/D/E    |  C/C/E/B    |  C/S/D/D    |
|  Heavy      |  Sharp      |  Hit        |
|Spiral Rush  |Delta Attack |Vital Ritual |
|  Pow  29    |  Int  55 [2]|  Int  50 [1]|
|  C/D/D/A    |  B/S/B/C    |  B/E/B/- [3]|
|  Sharp      |  Special    |  Special    |
|Meteor Drive |
|  Pow  50    |
|  S/D/A/E    |
|  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Guts draining tech
[4] = Does damage to the monster if it misses
[5] = Requires 350 Power to learn

--------------------Dragon Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Inferno      |Flutter      |Wing Attack  |Tail Whip    |
|  Int  29 [4]|  Int  29    |  Pow  17    |  Pow  11    |
|  C/D/B/E    |  C/S/D/E    |  D/A/E/E    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Withering  |  Hit        |  Hit        |  Basic      |
|Glide Charge |Flutters     |Wing Combo   |Tail Attack  |
|  Pow  27 [2]|  Int  33    |  Pow  22    |  Pow  16    |
|  C/A/E/A    |  B/A/D/E    |  C/A/E/E    |  C/A/-/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Hit        |  Basic      |
|SlammingDown |Trample      |Claw Combo   |Bite         |
|  Pow  40    |  Pow  27 [3]|  Pow  19    |  Pow  13    |
|  B/C/B/E    |  S/E/D/E    |  B/D/E/E    |  D/A/E/-    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |  Basic      |
|Flying Combo |Fire Breath  |Claw         |Two Bites    |
|  Pow  25 [5]|  Int  20    |  Pow  24    |  Pow  18    |
|  A/E/D/E    |  C/D/C/E    |  C/D/D/B    |  D/A/E/E    |
|  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Basic      |  Basic      |
              |Dragon Combo |Spinning Claw|Dragon Punch |
              |  Pow  50 [5]|  Pow  30 [1]|  Pow  17    |
              |  S/E/B/C    |  B/D/D/B    |  D/C/E/C    |
              |  Special    |  Sharp      |  Sharp      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 350 Power to learn
[4] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn
[5] = Requires 450 Power to learn

--------------------Ducken Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Missile      |Bound        |Beak Thrust  |Flutter Slap |
|  Int  19    |  Pow  15    |  Pow  15    |  Pow  11    |
|  C/E/E/E    |  D/A/E/D    |  D/C/-/E    |  E/A/E/-    |
|  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Two Missiles |Eye Beam     |Ducken Dance |Explosion    |
|  Int  31 [2]|  Int  26    |  Int  19    |  Pow  50 [1]|
|  C/D/D/S    |  D/A/D/D    |  E/D/C/E    |  S/E/S/D [3]|
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Withering  |  Special [4]|
|Big Missile  |Beam Shower  |Surprise     |
|  Int  39 [1]|  Int  35    |  Int  27 [6]|
|  S/E/D/E    |  C/S/D/D    |  E/D/B/E    |
|  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Withering  |
|Falling Back |Maximal Beam |Bound Charge |
|  Pow  17    |  Int  40 [2]|  Pow  30    |
|  D/D/E/B    |  B/C/B/D    |  C/S/E/D    |
|  Sharp      |  Special    |  Hit        |
|Frantic Beam |Bombing      |Bound Stamp  |
|  Int  45 [2]|  Int  33    |  Pow  39    |
|  C/B/C/A [5]|  A/E/D/D    |  B/A/E/D    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Special    |
              |Boomerang    |
              |  Int  28    |
              |  D/C/D/A    |
              |  Sharp      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Damages the monster when used
[4] = Requires 400 Power and 250 Life to learn
[5] = Requires 550 Intelligence to learn
[6] = Requires 300 Intelligence to learn

--------------------Durahan Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Rolling Slash|Rush Slash   |Cut-In-Two   |Swing        |
|  Pow  28 [4]|  Pow  10    |  Pow  12    |  Pow  18    |
|  B/D/E/E    |  D/A/-/E    |  D/C/E/E    |  C/C/E/E    |
|  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Lightning    |Dash Slash   |Million Stabs|Twister Slash|
|  Int  26 [1]|  Pow  17    |  Pow  27    |  Pow  19    |
|  A/D/D/E    |  C/A/-/E    |  C/A/D/E    |  B/D/E/E    |
|  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Hit        |  Heavy      |
|Blast Shot   |Charge       |Punch Combo  |Thunderbolt  |
|  Int  40 [2]|  Pow  16    |  Pow  45 [1]|  Pow  32 [1]|
|  C/A/C/E    |  D/S/E/E    |  B/A/C/E    |  S/E/D/E    |
|  Hit        |  Hit        |  Special    |  Heavy      |
|Sword Throw  |Air Shot     |DeathBringer |Flash Slash  |
|  Int  25    |  Int  30 [2]|  Pow  50 [3]|  Pow  18    |
|  C/D/D/A    |  D/S/D/E    |  S/E/A/E    |  D/C/E/C    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Special    |  Sharp      |
|Gust Slash   |Jumping Stab |Kick Combo   |Triple Slash |
|  Int  19 [5]|  Pow  26 [2]|  Pow  19 [6]|  Pow  40    |
|  D/S/E/E    |  C/C/E/B    |  C/D/E/E    |  B/D/D/C    |
|  Hit        |  Sharp      |  Heavy      |  Special    |
                            |V Slash      |Slash Combo  |
                            |  Pow  21 [7]|  Pow  35    |
                            |  C/C/D/C    |  S/E/D/E    |
                            |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Damages the monster when used
[4] = Requires 300 Power to learn
[5] = Available only to Shogun (Durahan/???), Genocider (Durahan/Joker), and
Lesziena (Durahan/Pixie)
[6] = Available only to Vesuvius (Durahan/Dragon), Hound Knight
(Durahan/Tiger), and Kokushi Muso (Durahan/???)
[7] = Available only to Ruby Knight (Durahan/???)

---------------------Gaboo Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Long Punch   |Straight     |Chop         |Slap         |
|  Pow  27    |  Pow  20    |  Pow  11    |  Pow  10    |
|  D/S/D/E    |  C/D/E/D    |  D/C/-/E    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Spit         |Cyclone      |Rolling Chop |Acid Spit    |
|  Int  24 [1]|  Int  39 [3]|  Pow  19    |  Int  35 [1]|
|  D/D/B/E [3]|  B/D/C/D    |  C/C/D/D    |  B/E/A/E [3]|
|  Withering  |  Special    |  Basic      |  Special    |
|Jumping Chop |Kiss         |Shock Wave   |Diving Press |
|  Pow  28 [2]|  Int  16    |  Pow  17    |  Pow  18    |
|  C/D/D/B    |  E/C/C/E    |  D/A/E/E    |  D/C/E/C    |
|  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Hit        |  Sharp      |
                            |Back Blow    |Chop Combo   |
                            |  Pow  14    |  Pow  40 [5]|
                            |  D/D/D/E    |  A/B/D/E    |
                            |  Heavy      |  Special    |
                            |Electric Blow|Samurai Kick |
                            |  Pow  29 [2]|  Pow  30 [6]|
                            |  A/E/D/D [4]|  C/A/C/D    |
                            |  Heavy      |  Special    |
                            |Ninja Kick   |
                            |  Pow  55 [1]|
                            |  S/D/B/D    |
                            |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn
[4] = Requires 300 Power to learn
[5] = Requires 350 Power to learn
[6] = Requires 400 Power to learn

----------------------Gali Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Thunderbolt  |Straight     |Heavy Blow   |Back Blow    |
|  Int  13    |  Pow  10    |  Pow  35    |  Pow  25    |
|  D/B/E/-    |  D/A/-/-    |  C/S/D/E    |  D/A/D/E    |
|  Basic      |  Basic      |  Hit        |  Hit        |
|Giant Blow   |Smash Thwack |Thwack       |Fire Wall    |
|  Pow  41    |  Pow  35    |  Pow  17    |  Int  15    |
|  B/A/D/E    |  A/D/D/D    |  C/D/E/E    |  D/A/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |  Hit        |
|Giant Thwack |Red Wisp     |Whirlwind    |Blaze Wall   |
|  Int  40    |  Int  18 [2]|  Int  25 [3]|  Int  27    |
|  S/D/C/E    |  D/C/C/E    |  B/D/D/E    |  C/S/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Withering  |  Heavy      |  Hit        |
|Cutting Mask |Blue Wisp    |Typhoon      |Napalm       |
|  Pow  24    |  Int  30 [2]|  Int  34    |  Int  38    |
|  D/C/E/B    |  D/C/A/E    |  A/D/C/D    |  B/A/D/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Heavy      |  Special    |
|Hashing Mask |Flying Mask  |Hurricane    |
|  Pow  38    |  Pow  17    |  Int  41    |
|  C/C/C/A    |  D/B/E/C    |  S/D/C/C    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |  Special    |
|Spirit Smash |Spirit Punch |Spirit Blow  |
|  Pow  40 [1]|  Pow  43 [2]|  Pow  38 [4]|
|  B/D/A/E    |  A/D/C/E    |  B/C/C/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn
[4] = Requires 450 Power to learn

---------------------Ghost Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Magic Card   |Necromancy   |Energy Shot  |Toy Hammer   |
|  Int  19    |  Int  25    |  Int  16    |  Pow  11    |
|  D/D/D/C    |  E/S/D/E    |  E/S/E/E    |  D/D/-/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Hit        |  Basic      |
|Magic Cards  |Dove Bomb    |Surprise     |Charge       |
|  Int  29    |  Int  23    |  Int  17    |  Pow  10    |
|  C/D/D/C    |  C/E/D/E    |  E/D/C/E    |  E/B/-/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Basic      |
              |Pigeon Bomb  |Astonishment |Uppercut     |
              |  Int  30    |  Int  32 [2]|  Pow  50    |
              |  B/E/D/E    |  D/D/B/E    |  B/B/C/E    |
              |  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Special    |
                                          |Combination  |
                                          |  Pow  55 [1]|
                                          |  B/B/B/E    |
                                          |  Special    |

[1] = Requires 300 Power to learn
[2] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn

---------------------Golem Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Brow Smash   |Heavy Slap   |Punch        |Heavy Punch  |
|  Pow  28    |  Pow  23    |  Pow  10    |  Pow  16    |
|  A/E/D/S    |  C/B/E/E    |  D/D/-/-    |  C/D/E/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Earthquake   |Diving Press |Brow Hit     |Kick         |
|  Int  28 [4]|  Pow  30    |  Pow  18    |  Pow  12    |
|  C/D/B/E    |  S/E/D/C    |  C/D/D/A    |  C/D/-/E    |
|  Withering  |  Heavy      |  Sharp      |  Basic      |
|Giant Chop   |Charge       |Smash Thwack |Heavy Kick   |
|  Pow  31    |  Pow  26    |  Pow  21 [1]|  Pow  18    |
|  B/E/B/C    |  B/B/D/E    |  C/D/B/E    |  B/E/E/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Fist Shot    |Roll Assault |Clap Attack  |Slap         |
|  Pow  50 [2]|  Pow  50    |  Pow  26    |  Pow  17    |
|  B/D/B/C    |  S/E/B/D    |  B/D/D/C    |  C/C/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Sharp      |  Hit        |
|Fist Missile |             |Palm Strike  |Uppercut     |
|  Pow  55 [2]|             |  Pow  24 [3]|  Pow  21    |
|  A/C/A/C    |             |  B/D/D/E    |  A/E/E/E    |
|  Special    |             |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |
+-------------+             +-------------+-------------+
|Cyclone      |             |Double Palms |Thwack       |
|  Pow  50    |             |  Pow  33    |  Pow  17 [1]|
|  S/E/C/D    |             |  A/D/D/E    |  C/D/D/E    |
|  Special    |             |  Heavy      |  Withering  |
+-------------+             +-------------+-------------+

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 300 Power to learn
[4] = Requires 300 Intelligence to learn

----------------------Hare Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Stinking Gas |1-2 Punch    |Back Blow    |Straight     |
|  Int  25 [1]|  Pow  10    |  Pow  19    |  Pow  20    |
|  E/A/B/D    |  D/S/-/E    |  C/D/E/D    |  D/S/E/D    |
|  Withering  |  Basic      |  Heavy      |  Hit        |
              |Foul Gas     |Rolling Blow |Hard Straight|
              |  Int  14    |  Pow  27    |  Pow  27    |
              |  -/A/C/D    |  A/E/D/D    |  C/S/E/D    |
              |  Withering  |  Heavy      |  Hit        |
              |Kung Fu Kick |Smash        |Kung Fu Fist |
              |  Pow  44 [2]|  Pow  26    |  Pow  18    |
              |  A/D/D/A    |  A/E/E/D    |  D/D/E/B    |
              |  Special    |  Heavy      |  Sharp      |
              |Gas          |Heavy Smash  |Kung Fu Blow |
              |  Int  10    |  Pow  33    |  Pow  25    |
              |  E/A/E/-    |  S/E/D/D    |  C/D/E/A    |
              |  Basic      |  Heavy      |  Sharp      |
                            |High Kick    |Bang         |
                            |  Pow  31 [3]|  Pow  45    |
                            |  C/D/D/B    |  B/A/C/D    |
                            |  Sharp      |  Special    |
                            |Spin Kick    |Big Bang     |
                            |  Pow  36    |  Pow  50    |
                            |  B/D/D/A    |  A/A/C/E    |
                            |  Sharp      |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 300 Speed to learn

---------------------Henger Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Sound Wave   |Arm Cannon   |Laser Cutter |Punch        |
|  Int  25 [1]|  Int  18    |  Pow  28 [3]|  Pow  10    |
|  E/B/B/E    |  D/S/E/E    |  A/E/D/D    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Withering  |  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Basic      |
|Fist Missile |Napalm Shot  |Yoyo         |Kick         |
|  Pow  19 [2]|  Int  24    |  Pow  17    |  Pow  16    |
|  D/A/E/B    |  C/S/E/D    |  D/C/C/D    |  D/B/E/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Drill Shot   |Hammer Fall  |Laser Sword  |Heavy Chop   |
|  Pow  27 [2]|  Pow  19    |  Pow  50    |  Pow  15    |
|  C/C/D/A    |  C/D/E/D    |  A/D/A/C    |  D/B/E/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Heavy      |  Special    |  Basic      |
|Drill Shots  |Burst Cannon |Laser Swords |Low Kick     |
|  Pow  45 [2]|  Int  35    |  Pow  55    |  Pow  13    |
|  B/B/D/S    |  C/A/D/D    |  S/D/A/B    |  D/A/-/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Special    |  Basic      |
|Eye Beam     |Sledge Fall  |Two Cutters  |
|  Int  26    |  Pow  25    |  Pow  50    |
|  C/C/E/B    |  B/D/E/D    |  S/E/D/D    |
|  Sharp      |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |
                            |Two Yoyos    |
                            |  Pow  29    |
                            |  C/D/B/D    |
                            |  Withering  |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 300 Power to learn

---------------------Hopper Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Rapid Flick  |Flick        |Jab          |Hook         |
|  Pow  30    |  Pow  17    |  Pow  10    |  Pow  12    |
|  D/S/E/E    |  D/A/E/E    |  E/A/-/-    |  D/C/-/E    |
|  Hit        |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Flick Combo  |Phantom Claw |             |Jump Blow    |
|  Pow  38 [1]|  Pow  25 [3]|             |  Pow  22    |
|  C/A/D/D    |  D/S/E/E    |             |  D/B/E/C    |
|  Special    |  Hit        |             |  Sharp      |
+-------------+-------------+             +-------------+
|Lightning    |                           |2 Jump Blows |
|  Int  30 [5]|                           |  Pow  29    |
|  D/D/B/E    |                           |  C/C/E/B    |
|  Withering  |                           |  Sharp      |
+-------------+                           +-------------+
|Flame        |                           |3 Jump Blows |
|  Int  36 [4]|                           |  Pow  35 [2]|
|  B/E/C/E    |                           |  B/D/D/S    |
|  Special    |                           |  Special    |
+-------------+                           +-------------+
                                          |1-2 Jump Blow|
                                          |  Pow  33    |
                                          |  C/D/D/E    |
                                          |  Special    |
                                          |Hopper Combo |
                                          |  Pow  44    |
                                          |  A/E/C/E    |
                                          |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Available only to Mustachios (Hopper/Kato)
[4] = Available only to Fairy Hopper (Hopper/Pixie) or Draco Hopper
[5] = Available only to Fairy Hopper (Hopper/Pixie) or through combining

----------------------Jell Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Cannon       |Jell Top     |Whip         |Stab         |
|  Int  35    |  Pow  17    |  Pow  14    |  Pow  11    |
|  S/D/D/D    |  D/S/E/E    |  D/A/E/-    |  D/C/-/E    |
|  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Slingshot    |Spiked Top   |Two Whips    |Pierce       |
|  Int  18    |  Pow  28    |  Pow  22    |  Pow  21    |
|  E/D/B/E    |  C/A/E/D    |  C/A/D/-    |  C/C/-/E    |
|  Withering  |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Pyramid      |Fly Swatter  |Jell Press   |Suffocation  |
|  Int  40 [2]|  Pow  27    |  Pow  30    |  Pow  24    |
|  A/E/-/- [3]|  D/C/B/E    |  C/A/E/E    |  C/B/E/B    |
|  Special [5]|  Withering  |  Hit        |  Sharp      |
|Gatling Gun  |Fly Smasher  |Jell Cube    |Bloodsuction |
|  Int  45    |  Pow  39    |  Pow  16    |  Pow  40 [1]|
|  B/S/D/C    |  C/D/A/E    |  C/E/E/E    |  B/E/-/- [4]|
|  Special    |  Withering  |  Heavy      |  Special [6]|
|Jell Copter  |Beam Gun     |Three Cubes  |
|  Int  50 [5]|  Int  18    |  Pow  23    |
|  S/A/D/E    |  D/C/D/C    |  B/D/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |  Heavy      |
              |Beam Cannon  |
              |  Int  35    |
              |  C/C/C/A    |
              |  Sharp      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Healing 
[4] = Drain Tech
[5] = Requires 450 Intelligence to learn
[6] = Requires 450 Power to learn

----------------------Jill Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Ice Meteor   |Cold Breath  |1-2-Straight |Double Slaps |
|  Int  29 [2]|  Int  26    |  Pow  12    |  Pow  10    |
|  C/D/D/C    |  D/S/D/E    |  D/A/-/E    |  D/C/E/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Snowstorm    |Ice Wave     |Punch Combo  |Ice Spikes   |
|  Int  45 [4]|  Int  19    |  Pow  29    |  Int  17    |
|  B/A/B/E    |  B/D/-/E    |  A/D/D/E    |  C/A/-/E    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |  Hit        |
              |Frantic Rush |Slap Combo   |Clap Attack  |
              |  Pow  19    |  Pow  27 [1]|  Pow  18    |
              |  C/C/E/C    |  C/B/C/E    |  D/B/D/E    |
              |  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Withering  |
              |Jill Combo   |
              |  Pow  45 [3]|
              |  S/D/C/E    |
              |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 450 Power to learn
[4] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn

---------------------Joker Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Death Energy |Death Cutter |Death Slash  |Death Punch  |
|  Int  28 [1]|  Int  28 [1]|  Pow  29 [1]|  Pow  12    |
|  C/S/D/D    |  C/D/C/B    |  A/E/C/D    |  D/C/D/-    |
|  Hit        |  Sharp      |  Heavy      |  Basic      |
|Death Final  |             |Death Smash  |
|  Pow  50 [1]|             |  Pow  15    |
|  S/E/S/C [2]|             |  D/C/D/E    |
|  Special    |             |  Basic      |
+-------------+             +-------------+

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Requires 350 Power to learn

----------------------Kato Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Phantom Claw |Oil Fire     |Thrust Claw  |Slash Claw   |
|  Pow  17    |  Int  17 [4]|  Pow  12    |  Pow  10    |
|  D/S/E/D    |  C/D/E/E    |  D/B/-/D    |  D/A/-/D    |
|  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Hopping Claw |Oil Flame    |Oil Spray    |Slash Claws  |
|  Pow  17    |  Int  30 [1]|  Int  28 [1]|  Pow  17    |
|  C/D/E/D    |  A/E/D/D [4]|  C/D/A/E    |  D/B/E/D    |
|  Heavy      |  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Jumping Claw |Drill Claw   |Turn Claw    |Claw Combo   |
|  Pow  22    |  Pow  20    |  Pow  15    |  Pow  23    |
|  B/E/D/D    |  C/C/E/A    |  D/D/D/B    |  B/D/D/D    |
|  Heavy      |  Sharp      |  Sharp      |  Heavy      |
|Aerial Claw  |Twister Claw |Turn Claws   |Smoke Breath |
|  Pow  30    |  Int  25    |  Pow  28    |  Int  18 [1]|
|  A/E/C/C    |  C/S/E/D    |  C/D/D/A    |  E/A/C/D    |
|  Special    |  Hit        |  Sharp      |  Withering  |
|Oil Drinking |Tornado Claw |Rolling Claw |Lick         |
|  Int  50 [2]|  Int  35    |  Pow  30 [2]|  Int  19 [6]|
|  B/E/-/- [3]|  C/S/D/C    |  B/D/B/S    |  D/D/C/E    |
|  Special [8]|  Hit        |  Special    |  Withering  |
|Bolt         |                           |Licking      |
|  Int  11 [5]|                           |  Int  15 [7]|
|  E/C/D/D    |                           |  D/D/C/E    |
|  Withering  |                           |  Withering  |
+-------------+                           +-------------+

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Healing
[4] = Due to a bug, this cannot be gotten except by Gameshark or through
[5] = Available only to Blue Kato (Kato/Tiger)
[6] = Available only to Citronie (Kato/Suezo)
[7] = Available only to Pink Kato (Kato/Mocchi)
[8] = Requires 450 Intelligence to learn

--------------------Metalner Techniques------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Palm Strike  |Dash Straight|Right Slap   |Left Slap    |
|  Pow  22    |  Pow  27    |  Pow  12    |  Pow  10    |
|  D/D/C/C    |  C/A/D/C    |  D/A/E/E    |  E/A/E/-    |
|  Withering  |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Metalner Ray |Elbow Strike |Straight     |Back Charge  |
|  Int  50 [1]|  Pow  30    |  Pow  18    |  Pow  29    |
|  B/D/A/C [4]|  D/S/D/C    |  D/A/D/C    |  C/D/C/S    |
|  Special    |  Hit        |  Hit        |  Sharp      |
|Burning Palm |Double Palms |High Kick    |
|  Pow  50 [3]|  Pow  20    |  Pow  20    |
|  A/D/C/C    |  C/D/D/C    |  D/B/D/A    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Sharp      |
|UFO Attack   |             |Double Kicks |
|  Pow  30 [2]|             |  Pow  25    |
|  S/E/D/C    |             |  D/C/D/S    |
|  Heavy      |             |  Sharp      |
+-------------+             +-------------+

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Requires 300 Power to learn
[3] = Requires 350 Power to learn
[4] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn

-----------------------Mew Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Miaow        |Diving Press |Leaping Kick |Punch        |
|  Int  30 [4]|  Pow  19    |  Pow  12    |  Pow  10    |
|  E/S/B/E    |  C/D/E/D    |  D/C/-/E    |  E/A/-/-    |
|  Withering  |  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Song of Mew  |HundredBlows |Scratch      |Head Butt    |
|  Int  39    |  Pow  50 [3]|  Pow  19    |  Pow  15 [2]|
|  D/A/B/E    |  B/A/D/D    |  D/S/E/C    |  D/B/E/B    |
|  Withering  |  Special    |  Hit        |  Sharp      |
|Recital      |MillionBlows |Stab         |Head Assault |
|  Int  40    |  Pow  55    |  Pow  19 [1]|  Pow  25 [2]|
|  C/C/A/D    |  A/A/C/C    |  D/C/C/D    |  C/B/D/A    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Sharp      |  Sharp      |
|Zap          |Twiddling    |Rushing Punch|
|  Int  40 [4]|  Pow  23    |  Pow  30 [3]|
|  A/D/A/D    |  C/C/E/C    |  B/C/D/D    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |  Heavy      |
|Maximal Zap  |Twiddling-2  |
|  Int  50    |  Pow  27    |
|  S/E/A/B    |  B/D/E/A    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |
              |Twiddling-Z  |
              |  Pow  37    |
              |  B/D/D/S    |
              |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 350 Power to learn
[4] = Requires 250 Intelligence to learn

---------------------Mocchi Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Mocchi Ray   |Roll Attack  |Head Butt    |Slap         |
|  Int  35    |  Pow  27    |  Pow  12    |  Pow  10    |
|  C/A/C/D    |  D/D/D/C    |  D/D/E/E    |  E/B/E/-    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Mocchi Beam  |Dazzling Roll|Licking      |Thrust       |
|  Int  40 [6]|  Pow  36    |  Int  19    |  Pow  15    |
|  C/B/C/C    |  C/D/C/A    |  D/D/C/E    |  D/A/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Hit        |
|Mocchi Cannon|Petal Swirl  |Press        |1-2 Thrust   |
|  Int  50 [2]|  Int  16    |  Pow  24    |  Pow  27    |
|  A/D/C/B    |  D/D/D/C    |  C/D/D/E    |  D/A/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |  Heavy      |  Hit        |
|Flame        |Petal Vortex |Diving Press |Thrusts      |
|  Int  38 [5]|  Int  45 [2]|  Pow  34    |  Pow  38    |
|  A/D/D/D    |  A/E/-/- [3]|  B/D/D/D    |  B/D/C/D    |
|  Special    |  Special [7]|  Heavy      |  Special    |
|Roll Assault |Petal Storm  |Giant Press  |
|  Pow  19    |  Int  40 [1]|  Pow  39    |
|  C/D/E/E    |  B/E/-/- [4]|  A/E/C/D    |
|  Heavy Tec  |  Special    |  Heavy      |
|Petal Roll   |
|  Pow  25    |
|  C/D/D/E    |
|  Heavy      |

[1] = Evil Tech (very, very extreme evil)
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Healing
[4] = Drain tech
[5] = Available only to Draco Mocchi (Mocchi/Dragon)
[6] = Requires 300 Intelligence to learn
[7] = Requires 450 Intelligence to learn

----------------------Mock Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Energy Steal |Leaf Gun     |Leaf Cutter  |Head Butt    |
|  Int  50 [1]|  Int  12    |  Int  18    |  Pow  15    |
|  A/E/A/- [2]|  D/C/-/-    |  D/S/E/E    |  D/B/E/-    |
|  Special [3]|  Basic      |  Hit        |  Basic      |
|Twister      |Leaf Gatling |
|  Int  45 [3]|  Int  23    |
|  A/D/B/E    |  B/D/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |
|Twisters     |Twig Gun     |
|  Int  50    |  Int  18    |
|  S/D/A/E    |  D/D/C/E    |
|  Special    |  Withering  |
              |Twig Gatling |
              |  Int  30    |
              |  C/D/B/E    |
              |  Withering  |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Drain tech
[3] = Requires 450 to learn

----------------------Monol Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Flattening-X |Flattening-L |Flattening   |Charge       |
|  Pow  20    |  Pow  15    |  Pow  12    |  Pow  10    |
|  C/B/E/E    |  D/A/E/-    |  D/A/-/-    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Basic      |  Basic      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Sound Wave   |Screech      |Spike Bite   |Needle Stabs |
|  Int  17    |  Int  25    |  Pow  29    |  Pow  21    |
|  D/S/E/E    |  D/S/D/E    |  B/D/C/D    |  C/C/D/E    |
|  Hit        |  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |
|Tentacles    |Strangelight |Scratch      |Spike Stabs  |
|  Pow  37 [1]|  Int  18    |  Pow  20    |  Pow  27    |
|  C/C/A/E    |  C/D/E/C    |  D/C/C/E    |  B/C/D/E    |
|  Withering  |  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Heavy      |
|Beam         |             |Knock        |Ray          |
|  Int  24 [4]|             |  Pow  35    |  Int  35 [3]|
|  C/C/E/C    |             |  B/A/D/E    |  C/B/B/E    |
|  Sharp      |             |  Special    |  Special    |
+-------------+             +-------------+-------------+
|Double Beams |             |Two Knocks   |Double Rays  |
|  Int  29    |             |  Pow  45    |  Int  40    |
|  B/D/D/C    |             |  A/S/D/E    |  B/B/A/E    |
|  Sharp      |             |  Special    |  Special    |
+-------------+             +-------------+-------------+
|Triple Beams |             |Three Knocks |Triple Rays  |
|  Int  40 [2]|             |  Pow  50    |  Int  45    |
|  B/D/C/A    |             |  A/S/C/E    |  B/C/A/D    |
|  Special    |             |  Special    |  Special    |
+-------------+             +-------------+-------------+

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 300 Intelligence to learn
[4] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn

----------------------Naga Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Drill Attack |Poison Gas   |Belly Punch  |Thwack       |
|  Pow  23 [4]|  Int  15    |  Pow  10    |  Pow  10    |
|  B/D/E/E    |  D/C/D/E    |  D/D/E/-    |  D/D/-/-    |
|  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Eye Beam     |Energy Shot  |Pierce       |Stab         |
|  Int  29 [2]|  Int  17    |  Pow  19    |  Pow  14    |
|  B/D/C/B    |  C/D/D/C    |  D/A/D/E    |  D/A/E/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Hit        |
|Energy Shots |Turn Assault |Tail Assault |
|  Int  24    |  Pow  45 [5]|  Pow  15    |
|  C/D/D/C    |  B/A/C/E    |  C/D/E/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Special    |  Heavy      |
                            |Life Steal   |
                            |  Int  50 [1]|
                            |  B/E/-/- [3]|
                            |  Special [6]|

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Drain tech
[4] = Requires 350 Power to learn
[5] = Requires 450 Power to learn
[6] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn

----------------------Niton Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Shell Attack |Shock        |Sound Wave   |Whip         |
|  Pow  35 [3]|  Int  19    |  Int  16    |  Pow  10    |
|  B/C/E/D    |  D/D/D/D    |  D/S/D/E    |  E/A/-/-    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Basic      |
|Spiked Shell |Severe Shock |Sound Wave-L |Stab         |
|  Pow  40    |  Int  26    |  Int  24    |  Pow  12    |
|  B/C/E/B    |  C/D/D/D    |  D/A/D/C    |  D/C/-/-    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Basic      |
|ViolentShell |Maximal Shock|Sound Wave-X |Numbing Stab |
|  Pow  50    |  Int  35    |  Int  35    |  Pow  15    |
|  A/D/B/B    |  B/D/D/D    |  D/S/D/C    |  D/C/-/E    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Special    |  Basic      |
              |Niton Ink    |Numbing Whip |Electric Stab|
              |  Int  20 [1]|  Pow  19    |  Pow  21    |
              |  E/B/B/D    |  D/D/E/A    |  C/D/E/D    |
              |  Withering  |  Sharp      |  Basic      |
                            |Electric Whip|
                            |  Pow  28    |
                            |  C/D/D/A    |
                            |  Sharp      |
                            |Million Whips|
                            |  Pow  35 [2]|
                            |  B/D/D/S    |
                            |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 450 Power to learn

--------------------Phoenix Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Heat Beam    |Flame Shot   |Talons       |Beak         |
|  Int  29    |  Int  19    |  Pow  11    |  Pow  13    |
|  A/D/E/E    |  D/C/D/E    |  D/A/-/-    |  D/C/-/-    |
|  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Fire Stream  |Flame Cannon |Rapid Beaks  |
|  Int  45 [3]|  Int  30 [1]|  Pow  23    |
|  B/B/D/D    |  D/C/A/E    |  C/A/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Withering  |  Hit        |
|Fire Wave    |Fire Twister |
|  Int  50    |  Int  20    |
|  S/C/D/C    |  C/C/E/C    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |
              |Fire Tornado |
              |  Int  26 [2]|
              |  B/D/E/B    |
              |  Sharp      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn

----------------------Pixie Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Flame        |Bolt         |Bang         |Pat          |
|  Int  19    |  Int  16    |  Int  42    |  Pow  12    |
|  C/E/D/E    |  E/A/E/E    |  B/D/D/C    |  E/A/-/-    |
|  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Special    |  Basic      |
|Gigaflame    |Lightning    |Big Bang     |Slap         |
|  Int  30 [1]|  Int  25    |  Int  46    |  Pow  18    |
|  B/E/D/E    |  D/A/E/E    |  A/E/C/B    |  D/A/E/-    |
|  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Special    |  Basic      |
|Ray          |Kiss         |1-2 Punch    |Kick         |
|  Int  17    |  Int  18    |  Pow  15 [a]|  Pow  10    |
|  D/C/E/C    |  -/B/C/E    |  D/S/-/E    |  E/B/-/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Megaray      |Life Steal   |Phantom Claw |High Kick    |
|  Int  29    |  Int  40 [1]|  Pow  25 [7]|  Pow  19    |
|  D/C/E/B    |  C/D/-/- [4]|  D/S/E/E    |  D/B/E/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Special [5]|  Hit        |  Basic      |
|Gigaray      |Refreshment  |Death Final  |Heel Raid    |
|  Int  34 [2]|  Int  50 [2]|  Pow  52 [6]|  Pow  30    |
|  C/D/E/S    |  B/E/-/- [3]|  A/E/A/E [9]|  C/D/C/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Special [5]|  Special    |  Heavy      |
              |Fire Breath  |
              |  Int  49 [5]|
              |  A/D/D/E [8]|
              |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Healing
[4] = Drain tech
[5] = Requires 450 Intelligence to learn
[6] = Requires 500 Intelligence to learn
[7] = Available only to Kitten (Pixie/Kato)
[8] = Available only to Daina (Pixie/Dragon)
[9] = Available only to Lilim (Pixie/Joker)
[a] = Apparently locked due to a bug. Perhaps a crossover tech for Lepus
(Pixie/Hare)? If someone gets this move, let me know.

----------------------Plant Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Seed Gun     |Toxic Nectar |Jab          |Slap         |
|  Int  21    |  Int  26    |  Pow  10    |  Pow  11    |
|  D/B/D/C    |  E/A/C/E    |  E/A/-/-    |  E/A/-/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Seed Gatling |Toxic Pollen |Jab Combo    |Root Attack  |
|  Int  27 [2]|  Int  35 [6]|  Pow  18    |  Pow  13    |
|  C/C/D/A    |  E/C/B/E    |  D/C/E/E    |  E/S/E/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Heavy      |  Hit        |
              |Face Drill   |Plant Combo  |Root Combo   |
              |  Pow  35 [5]|  Pow  25 [4]|  Pow  21    |
              |  C/A/D/E    |  C/D/D/E    |  D/S/E/E    |
              |  Special    |  Heavy      |  Hit        |
                                          |Life Steal   |
                                          |  Int  50 [1]|
                                          |  C/C/-/- [3]|
                                          |  Special [7]|

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Drain tech
[4] = Requires a 300 Power to learn
[5] = Requires a 350 Power to learn
[6] = Requires a 350 Intelligence to learn
[7] = Requires a 450 Intelligence to learn

---------------------Suezo Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Eye Beam     |Teleport     |Spit         |Tail Assault |
|  Int  31    |  Pow  16    |  Int  10    |  Pow  12    |
|  C/D/D/B    |  D/A/D/E    |  D/A/E/-    |  D/C/E/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Yodel        |Telekinesis  |Bite         |Tongue Slap  |
|  Int  40    |  Int  23    |  Pow  22    |  Pow  33    |
|  C/D/A/E    |  D/S/D/E    |  C/D/D/E    |  A/E/C/E    |
|  Special    |  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |
              |Telepathy    |Lick         |Kiss         |
              |  Int  21    |  Int  22    |  Int  29    |
              |  D/D/D/C    |  D/D/C/E    |  D/D/B/E    |
              |  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Withering  |
                            |Chewing      |
                            |  Pow  45    |
                            |  B/B/C/E    |
                            |  Special    |

----------------------Tiger Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Roll Assault |Charge       |Scratch      |Bite         |
|  Pow  23    |  Pow  15    |  Pow  10    |  Pow  12    |
|  D/S/D/B    |  E/S/E/C    |  D/C/-/E    |  D/B/-/E    |
|  Hit        |  Hit        |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Blizzard     |Combination  |One-Two      |Bolt         |
|  Int  32    |  Pow  25    |  Pow  18    |  Int  18    |
|  C/B/D/S    |  B/D/E/B    |  D/D/E/B    |  E/C/D/C    |
|  Sharp      |  Heavy      |  Heavy      |  Withering  |
|Roar         |Ice Bomb     |Lightning    |
|  Int  40    |  Int  15    |  Int  29    |
|  B/E/A/C    |  D/C/-/S    |  D/D/B/C    |
|  Special    |  Sharp      |  Withering  |
              |Stab         |
              |  Pow  45    |
              |  B/C/D/A    |
              |  Special    |

---------------------Undine Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Icicle Arrow |Aqua Wave    |Aqua Whip    |Ice Sword    |
|  Int  35 [2]|  Int  19    |  Pow  19 [1]|  Pow  10    |
|  B/C/D/S    |  D/S/E/E    |  E/D/C/E    |  E/A/-/E    |
|  Special    |  Hit        |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Hailstorm    |Aqua Waves   |Two Whips    |Ice Swords   |
|  Int  34 [4]|  Int  28    |  Pow  29 [1]|  Pow  14    |
|  C/B/E/B    |  C/S/E/E    |  D/D/B/E    |  D/A/-/E    |
|  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Cold Storm   |Ice Coffin   |Kiss         |Dolphin Blow |
|  Int  55    |  Int  30    |  Int  30    |  Pow  18    |
|  A/E/A/D    |  B/E/D/D    |  D/S/D/E    |  C/D/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Heavy      |
|Vitalization |Ice Arrow    |Cold Fog     |Splash       |
|  Int  40 [2]|  Int  28 [2]|  Int  12    |  Int  27 [2]|
|  B/E/-/- [3]|  C/C/D/A    |  D/A/-/-    |  E/D/A/E [4]|
|  Special [5]|  Sharp      |  Basic      |  Withering  |
|Cold Geyser  |Cold Whirl   |Arrow        |
|  Int  16    |  Int  50 [5]|  Int  18 [2]|
|  D/C/E/S    |  B/D/B/E    |  D/B/E/B    |
|  Sharp      |  Special    |  Sharp      |
|Water Cannon |Water Gun    |
|  Int  50    |  Int  45    |
|  B/A/A/C    |  C/S/B/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Healing
[4] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn
[5] = Requires 450 Intelligence to learn

----------------------Worm Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Poison Gas   |Pinch-Throw  |Sting        |Bite         |
|  Int  28    |  Pow  29 [1]|  Pow  10    |  Pow  13    |
|  C/D/B/E    |  A/D/D/E    |  D/A/-/E    |  D/A/-/-    |
|  Withering  |  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Wheel Attack |Pierce       |Tail Lash    |Somersault   |
|  Pow  44 [2]|  Pow  18    |  Pow  19    |  Pow  26    |
|  B/C/B/C    |  D/D/C/E    |  D/S/E/E    |  C/S/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Withering  |  Hit        |  Hit        |
              |Tusk Slash   |Two Lashes   |Somersaults  |
              |  Pow  17    |  Pow  27    |  Pow  30    |
              |  D/B/E/C    |  D/S/D/E    |  C/S/D/E    |
              |  Sharp      |  Hit        |  Hit        |
              |Injection    |Three Lashes |
              |  Int  28    |  Pow  34    |
              |  C/D/C/A    |  C/A/D/E    |
              |  Sharp      |  Special    |
                            |Roll Assault |
                            |  Pow  50    |
                            |  S/D/C/E    |
                            |  Special    |
                            |Pierce-Throw |
                            |  Pow  20    |
                            |  C/D/E/E    |
                            |  Heavy      |

[1] = Requires 300 Power to learn
[2] = Requires 375 Power to learn

---------------------Wracky Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Air Shot     |Weapon Throw |Heavy Punch  |Weapon       |
|  Int  17    |  Int  12    |  Pow  25    |  Pow  10    |
|  E/S/E/E    |  D/A/E/-    |  C/D/D/E    |  E/A/E/-    |
|  Hit        |  Basic      |  Heavy      |  Basic      |
|Blast Shot   |Spin Slash   |Wracky Combo |Weapon Combo |
|  Int  28    |  Pow  28    |  Pow  50    |  Pow  20    |
|  C/S/D/E    |  B/D/E/D    |  A/E/A/E    |  D/A/D/-    |
|  Hit        |  Heavy      |  Special    |  Basic      |
|TwisterSlash |Trick        |Necromancy   |Kick         |  
|  Pow  39 [2]|  Int  32    |  Int  20 [3]|  Pow  28    |
|  A/D/E/D    |  E/C/A/E    |  E/C/C/E    |  D/S/E/E    |
|  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Withering  |  Hit        |
|Beat Dance   |Explosion    |Sneak Attack |Spin Kick    |
|  Pow  50    |  Pow  50 [1]|  Pow  16    |  Pow  33    |
|  C/C/C/A    |  S/E/S/D [4]|  D/B/E/C    |  C/S/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Special [8]|  Sharp      |  Hit        |
|Cursed Dance |Head Spike   |Sneak Combo  |Twister Kick |
|  Pow  55    |  Int  45 [6]|  Pow  42    |  Pow  45    |
|  B/C/B/S    |  C/C/B/E    |  C/B/D/A    |  B/S/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Sharp      |  Special    |
|Flame        |Fire Spike   |Fire Juggler |Punch        |
|  Int  50 [7]|  Int  50    |  Int  50    |  Pow  18    |
|  A/D/A/E    |  B/D/A/E    |  S/D/C/E    |  C/D/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Special    |  Heavy      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = If a monster dies by this tech, they cannot have grit activate.
[4] = Damages the monster when used
[5] = Available only to Draco Doll (Wracky/Dragon)
[6] = Requires 350 Intelligence to learn
[7] = Requires 450 Intelligence to learn
[8] = Requires 450 Power to learn

----------------------Zilla Techniques-------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Roll Assault |Earthquake   |Scratch      |Belly Attack |
|  Pow  21    |  Pow  29 [4]|  Pow  10    |  Pow  12    |
|  B/D/E/E    |  S/E/C/E    |  D/C/-/E    |  D/B/-/-    |
|  Heavy      |  Heavy      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Tidal Wave   |Bubbles      |Tail Lashes  |Head Butt    |
|  Int  37 [2]|  Int  30 [1]|  Pow  24    |  Pow  16    |
|  A/D/C/C    |  D/D/B/E    |  C/A/E/E    |  D/A/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Withering  |  Hit        |  Hit        |
              |Charge       |Sneeze       |Knocking-Up  |
              |  Pow  27    |  Int  17    |  Pow  19    |
              |  C/C/D/C    |  D/C/C/E    |  C/B/E/C    |
              |  Sharp      |  Withering  |  Sharp      |
              |Zilla Rush   |Body Press   |
              |  Pow  32    |  Pow  40 [3]|
              |  C/D/D/B    |  S/D/B/E    |
              |  Sharp      |  Special    |
                            |Wave Riding  |
                            |  Pow  45 [3]|
                            |  S/D/A/C    |
                            |  Special    |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Does damage to the monster if it misses
[4] = Requires 350 Power to learn

----------------------Zuum Techniques--------------------

    Range 4       Range 3       Range 2       Range 1
|Charge       |Jumping Claw |Tail         |Claw         |
|  Pow  24 [2]|  Pow  16    |  Pow  12    |  Pow  10    |
|  C/D/D/B    |  D/C/E/C    |  D/A/-/E    |  D/C/-/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Sharp      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Fire Charge  |Diving Claw  |Tail Lash    |Million Claws|
|  Pow  30 [2]|  Pow  22    |  Pow  20    |  Pow  15    |
|  C/D/C/A    |  D/C/D/C    |  D/A/E/E    |  D/A/E/-    |
|  Sharp      |  Sharp      |  Basic      |  Basic      |
|Roll Assault |Aerial Claw  |Tail Lashes  |Bite         |
|  Pow  50    |  Pow  36    |  Pow  25    |  Pow  18    |
|  B/B/C/D    |  B/D/D/B    |  C/A/E/D    |  C/D/E/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Basic      |  Heavy      |
|Five Balls   |Fire Ball    |Dust Cloud   |Bite-Throw   |
|  Int  45    |  Int  28    |  Int  27 [1]|  Pow  32    |
|  A/D/C/C    |  B/D/D/E    |  E/D/B/E [4]|  A/D/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Withering  |  Heavy      |
|Fire Bomb    |Fire Breath  |Hypnotism    |Claw Combo   |
|  Int  50 [3]|  Int  37    |  Int  16    |  Pow  23    |
|  S/E/B/A [5]|  A/D/D/D    |  E/C/C/E    |  C/B/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Special    |  Withering  |  Basic      |
|Burning Roll |Jumping Fire |Tail Combo   |Million Bites|
|  Pow  55    |  Int  32    |  Pow  19    |  Pow  26    |
|  A/C/B/D    |  A/D/D/E    |  D/A/E/E    |  B/D/D/E    |
|  Special    |  Heavy      |  Hit        |  Heavy      |

[1] = Evil Tech
[2] = Good Tech
[3] = Damages the monster when used
[4] = Requires 300 Intelligence to learn
[5] = Requires 450 Intelligence to learn

As mentioned above, techs are occasionally 'locked' in an errantry. In other
words, he'll say that it's difficult to get, and there doesn't seem to be a
way to get it. Sometimes, this is because the tech is either good or evil, and
your monster is the opposite or neutral. More often, however, the move is
locked because of what has been termed a 'tech chain'. This means that a move
before it must be gotten first, and generally used a number of times (usually
either 30 or 50) before the next one can be gained. 

Tech Chains carry through in combining, to some extent. Say the parent monster
of that type had used the Pixie chain for 'Ray', and had used Ray 50x but
hadn't yet gotten Megaray. If the Pixie child doesn't start with Megaray
through combining, then the move will be unlocked anyhow, as if the child
itself had used Ray those 50x. However, this only works if the child starts
with the necessary tech. For instance, if the Pixie didn't start with Ray, it
would have to get it first.

Here is a list of all the tech chains that are known about at the moment. If
you know the exact numbers that are needed for the ones not numbered, or think
that you've found a mistake in them, by all means mail me and let me know.
These are fairly certain, after all, but there's always the possibility of a

Bomb (Sharp) -> Big Bomb (Sharp, Evil)
Grab-Throw (Heavy) -> Swing Throw (Spec)

Sting (Hit) -> Triple Stings (Hit)
Energy Shot (Wither) -> Energy Shots (Wither)
Somersault (Sharp, Good) -> Somersaults (Special)

Straight (Heavy) -> Magic Punch (Heavy) -> Mystic Punch (Special, Good) ->
Mystic Combo (Special, Good) 
Straight (Heavy) -> Hook (Heavy) -> 1-2-Hook (Heavy) -> 1-2-Smash (Special,
Uppercut (Sharp) -> 1-2-Uppercut (Sharp)
Magic Pot (Special, Evil) -> Mystic Pot (Special, Evil) -> Miracle Pot
(Special, Evil) 

Bite (Hit) -> Two Bites (Hit) -> Three Bites (Special)
Roar (Sharp) -> Two Roars (Sharp) -> Million Roars (Special)

Punch (Basic) -> Heavy Punch (Basic) -> Maximal Punch (Basic)
Horn Strike (Basic) -> Horn Attack (Basic)
Horn Cannon (Sharp) -> Frantic Horn (Special)
Tremor (Withering) -> Earthquake (Special)
Dive Assault (Heavy) -> Spiral Dive (Heavy)
Punch Combo (Special) -> Beaclon Combo (Special)

Smash (Basic) -> Smash Combo (Basic)
Energy Shot (Wither) -> Energy Shots (Wither)
Mind Flare (Wither) -> Mind Blast (Wither)
Cross Slash (Special, Good) -> Z Slash (Special, Good)
Javelin (Sharp) -> Jumping Javelin (Sharp)

Color Pandora: 
Tail Swing (Basic) -> Two Swings (Basic)
Giant Whip (Heavy) -> Giant Wheel (Heavy)
Shotgun (Hit) -> Megashotgun (Hit)
Cracker (Withering) -> Megacracker (Withering)

Bite (Basic) -> Two Bites (Basic)
Tail Whip (Basic) -> Tail Attack (Basic)
Wing Attack (Hit) -> Wing Combo (Hit)
Fire breath (Withering) -> Inferno (Withering)
Flutter (Hit) -> Flutters (Hit)
Claw Combo (Heavy) -> Flying Combo (Heavy)
Claw (Basic) -> Spinning Claw (Sharp, Evil)

Eye Beam (Hit) -> Beam Shower (Hit) -> Maximal Beam (Special, Good) 
Missile (Heavy) -> Two Missiles (Sharp, Good)
Missile (Heavy) -> Big Missile (Heavy, Evil)
Bound (Hit) -> Bound Charge (Hit) -> Bound Stamp (Special)

Rush Slash (Basic) x30 -> Dash Slash (Basic)
Lightning (Heavy, Evil) x50 -> Thunderbolt (Heavy, Evil) 
Air Shot (Hit, Good) x50 -> Blast Shot (Hit, Good) 
Cut-in-Two (Basic) x30 -> Swing (Basic)

Spit (Wither, Evil) -> Acid Spit (Special, Evil) 
Chop (Basic) -> Rolling Chop (Basic)
Samurai Kick (Special) -> Ninja Kick (Special, Evil) 
Back Blow (Heavy) -> Electric Blow (Heavy, Good)

Whirlwind (Heavy) x50 -> Typhoon (Heavy) x50 -> Hurricane (Special)
Fire Wall (Hit) x50 -> Blaze Wall (Hit) x50 -> Napalm (Special)
Thwack (Heavy) x50 -> Smash Thwack (Heavy) x50 -> Giant Thwack (Special)
Flying Mask (Sharp) x50 -> Cutting Mask (Sharp) x50 -> Hashing Mask (Special)
Back Blow (Hit) x50 -> Heavy Blow (Hit) x50 -> Giant Blow (Special)
Spirit Blow (Special) x50 -> Spirit Punch (Special, Good) 
Spirit Blow (Special) x50 -> Spirit Smash (Special, Evil) 

Magic card (Sharp) -> Magic cards (Sharp)
Energy shot (Hit) -> Necromancy (Hit)
Dove Bomb (Heavy) -> Pigeon bomb (Heavy)
Surprise (Wither) -> Astonishment (Withering)
Uppercut (Special) -> Combination (Special)

Punch (Basic) -> Heavy Punch (Basic)
Kick (Basic) -> Heavy Kick (Basic)
Brow Hit (Sharp) -> Brow Smash (Sharp)
Slap (Hit) -> Heavy Slap (Hit)
Palm Strike (Heavy)-> Double Palms (Heavy)
Thwack (Withering, Evil) x50 + Punch (Basic) 30x -> Smash Thwack (Withering,

Gas (Basic) -> Stinking Gas (evil, Wither) 
Back Blow -> Smash -> Hard Smash 
Back Blow (Heavy) -> Rolling Blow 
Straight (Hit) -> Hard Straight 
Bang (Special) -> Big Bang (Special)
Kung Fu Fist (Sharp) -> Spin Kick -> Kung Fu Kick 
High Kick (Sharp) -> Spin Kick -> Kung Fu Kick 
(This one has not been proven yet. It is not sure which order the chain goes.
It seems that you need to use High Kick to get Spin Kick. And it seems that
you need to use Kung Fu Fist 50x along with Spin Kick 50x to get Kung Fu Kick)

Punch (Basic) x30 -> Heavy Chop (Basic)
Punch (Basic) x50 -> Eye Beam (Heavy)
Low Kick (Basic) -> Kick (Basic)
Drill Shot (Sharp, Good) -> Drill Shots (Special, Good)
Hammer Fall (Heavy) -> Sledge Fall (Heavy)
Arm Cannon (Hit) -> Napalm Shot (Hit) -> Burst Cannon (Special)
Laser Cutter (Heavy) -> Two Cutters (Heavy)
Yoyo (Wither) -> Two Yoyos (Special)
Laser Sword (Special) -> Laser Swords (Special)

Jump Blow (Sharp) -> 2 Jump Blows (Sharp) -> 3 Jump Blows (Sharp, Good) 
1-2 Jump Blow (Special) -> Hopper Combo (Special)
Flick (Hit) -> Rapid Flick (Hit) x50 -> Flick Combo (Special, Evil) 

Stab (Basic) -> Pierce (Basic)
Whip (Basic) -> Two Whips (Basic)
Jell Top (Hit) -> Spiked Top (Hit)
Fly Swatter (Withering) -> Fly Smasher (Withering)
Jell Cube (Heavy) -> Three Cubes (Heavy)
Beam Gun (Sharp) -> Beam Cannon (Sharp)

Punch Combo (Heavy) -> Jill Combo (Special)
Double Slaps (Basic) -> Slap Combo (Withering, Evil) 


Twister Claw (Hit) -> Tornado Claw (Hit)
Oil Fire (Withering, Evil) -> Oil Flame (Withering, Evil)
(Apparently permanently LOCKED because of a bug)
Hopping Claw (Heavy) -> Jumping Claw (Heavy) -> Aerial Claw (Special)
Turn Claw (Sharp) -> Turn Claws (Sharp) -> Rolling Claw (Special, Good)
Slash Claw (Basic) -> Slash Claws (Basic) -> Claw Combo (Heavy)

High Kick (Sharp) -> Double Kicks (Sharp)
Straight (Hit) -> Dash Straight (Hit)
Double Palms (Heavy) -> Burning Palms (Special, Good)

Miaow (Wither) -> Song Of Mew (Wither) -> Recital (Special)
Zap (Special) -> Maximal Zap (Special)
Hundred Blows (Special) -> Million Blows (Special)
Twiddling (Sharp) -> Twiddling-2 (Sharp) -> Twiddling-Z (Special)
Head Butt (Sharp, Good) -> Head Assault (Sharp, Good) 

Thrust (Hit) -> 1-2 Thrust (Hit) -> Thrusts (Special)
Press (Heavy) -> Diving Press (Heavy) -> Giant Press (Heavy)
Roll Attack (Sharp) -> Dazzling Roll (Sharp)
Roll Assault (Heavy) -> Petal Roll (Heavy)
Mocchi Ray (Special) -> Mocchi Beam (Special) -> Mocchi Cannon (Special, Good)
Petal Swirl (Sharp) -> Petal Storm (Special, Evil) -> Petal Vortex (Special,

Twister (Special) -> Twisters (Special)
Leaf Gun (Basic) -> Leaf Gatling (Heavy)

Flattening (Basic) -> Flattening-L (Basic) -> Flattening-X (Basic)
Beam (Sharp) -> Double Beams (Sharp) -> Triple Beams (Special, Good)
Ray (Special) -> Double Rays (Special) -> Triple Rays (Special)
Knock (Special) -> Two Knocks (Special) -> Three Knocks (Special)
Needle Stabs (Heavy) -> Spike Stabs (Heavy) -> Spike Bite (Heavy)

Energy Shot (Wither) -> Energy Shots (Wither)
Tail Assault (Heavy) -> Turn Assault (Special)

Shock (Heavy) -> Severe Shock (Heavy) -> Maximal Shock (Heavy)
Sound Wave (Hit) -> Sound Wave-L (Hit) -> Sound Wave-X (Special)
Stab (Basic) -> Numbing Stab (Basic) -> Electric Stab (Basic)
Numbing Whip (Sharp) -> Electric Whip (Sharp) -> Million Whips (Special, Good)
Shell Attack (Special) -> Spiked Shell (Special) -> Violent Shell (Special)

Fire Twister (Sharp) -> Fire Tornado (Good, Sharp) 
Flame Shot (Wither) -> Flame Cannon (Evil, Wither) 
Fire Stream (Special) -> Fire Wave (Special)

Pat (Basic) x30 -> Slap (Basic)
Kick (Basic) x30 -> High Kick (Basic) x30 -> Heel Raid (Heavy)
Ray (Sharp) x50 -> Megaray (Sharp) x50 -> Gigaray (Sharp, Good)
Flame (Heavy) x50 -> Gigaflame (Heavy, Evil)
Bang (Special) x50 -> Big Bang (Special)
Bolt (Hit) x50 -> Lightning (Hit)

Seed Gun (Sharp) -> Seed Gatling (Sharp, Good) 
Jab (Basic) -> Jab Combo (Heavy) -> Plant Combo (Heavy)
Root Attack (Hit) -> Root Combo (Hit)



Ice Sword (Basic) -> Ice Swords (Basic)
Aqua Whip (Withering, Evil) -> Two Whips (Withering, Evil)
Arrow (Sharp) -> Ice Arrow (Sharp) -> Icicle Arrow (Special)
Aqua Wave (Hit) -> Aqua Waves (Hit)
Cold Whirl (Special) -> Cold Storm (Special)
Water Gun (Special) -> Water Cannon (Special)

Tail Lash (Hit) -> Two Lashes (Hit) -> Three Lashes (Special)
Somersault (Hit) -> Somersaults (Hit)

Weapon (Basic) -> Weapon Combo (Basic)
Air Shot (Hit) -> Blast Shot (Hit)
Kick (Hit) -> Spin Kick (Hit) -> Twister Kick (Special)
Punch (Heavy) -> Heavy Punch (Heavy)
Sneak Attack (Sharp) -> Sneak Combo (Sharp)
Beat Dance (Special) -> Cursed Dance (Special)
Head Spike (Special) -> Fire Spike (Special)
Flame (Special) -> Fire Juggler (Special)
Necromancy (Withering) -> Trick (Withering)

Charge (Sharp) -> Zilla Rush (Special)
Sneeze (Wither) -> Bubbles (Wither, Evil) 
Tidal Wave (Special, Good) + Body Press (Special) -> Wave Riding (Special)

Charge (Sharp) -> Firecharge (Sharp, Good)
Bite (Heavy) -> Million Bites (Heavy) -> Bite-Throw (Heavy)
Claw (Basic) -> Million Claws (Basic) -> Claw Combo (Hit)
Tail (Basic) x30 -> Tail Combo (Hit)
Tail (Basic) x30 -> Tail Lash (Basic)
Tail (Basic) x30 -> Tail Lashes (Basic)
Fire Ball (Heavy) -> Jumping Fire (Heavy) -> Fire Breath (Special)
Five Balls (Special) -> Fire Bomb (Special)
Jumping Claw (Sharp) -> Diving Claw (Sharp) -> Aerial Claw (Special)
Roll Assault (Special) -> Burning Roll (Special)

Occasionally, in the middle of battle, you will notice a word appearing by the
monster, and... *something* happening when it does. This is what is
technically known as a 'Battle Special'. Battle specials are abilities that
monsters have which give them a little added 'oomph' in a battle. Some of them
are limited to only specific monsters, and can't be gotten any other way.
Others belong to a specific class of monster, but can be given to other
monsters through the use of disk chips and combining. And still others are
based on whether your monster is 'Good' or 'Bad'. 

While the details are still sketchy, battle specials can also be passed
through combinations, even if you're not using the Disk Chips for that
specific monster. It seems to match up with 'great' combinations, and only
when the monsters are well-raised. There's quite definitely an element of
randomness to it, as well; specials won't always pass, even under the best

NAME: The name of the battle special
PREREQUISITE: If there is something that *must* be had, it will be here
TRIGGER: When the move goes off
BONUSES: The good things that happen
PENALTIES: The bad things (if any) that happen
DADGE: When you go to 'Analyze', this is what Dadge says to tell you the
monster has this special

NAME: Power
TRIGGER: Having Life brought down into the yellow. The lower the Life, the
more likely it will trigger
BONUSES: +100% damage for a number of seconds
DADGE: You won't see its true abilities until it's cornered

NAME: Anger
TRIGGER: Getting hit by any move that withers
BONUSES: Withering +100%, guts regen +50%
PENALTIES: Evasion -50%
DADGE: It becomes easily enraged

NAME: Grit
TRIGGER: Monster is KO'ed
BONUSES: Recovers from KO with 1 Life
PENALTIES: None (but only works once per battle)
DADGE: Giving up is not in its nature

NAME: Will
TRIGGER: Monster gets 99 guts
BONUSES: Accuracy +100%
PENALTIES: Guts used +50%
DADGE: Its senses are very keen

NAME: Fight
TRIGGER: Opponent's guts reaches 99
BONUSES: Gains guts equal to damage taken if hit
DADGE: It is very passionate

NAME: Fury
TRIGGER: Monster is attacked while moving
BONUSES: Damage +100%, Withering +100%
DADGE: It goes completely out of control when it's angered

NAME: Guard
TRIGGER: Monster is hit 3 times in a row
BONUSES: Damage taken -30%, Guts regen +50%
PENALTIES: Damage -50%
DADGE: It knows how to endure hardships

NAME: Ease
TRIGGER: Monster dodges or succeeds with an attack 5 times in succession (one
or the other; not a mix of both)
BONUSES: Evasion +100%, Guts cost -30%
PENALTIES: Damage taken +100%
DADGE: It appears confident

NAME: Hurry
TRIGGER: Fewer than 10 seconds on the timer remaining
BONUSES: Critical hit chance +100%
DADGE: It doesn't give up until the last moment

NAME: Real
PREREQUISITE: Joker main or sub (or certain special monsters)
TRIGGER: Opponent's Life is less than 25% of max
BONUSES: Withering +50%, Critical hit +50%, Guts Regen +50%, Damage taken
-30%, Movement speed increased; lasts several seconds
PENALTIES: All benefits reversed when it wears off; penalty lasts until end of
DADGE: It tends to hide it's true abilities

NAME: Vigor
TRIGGER: Monster succeeds with an attack within the first 5 seconds of the
BONUSES: Movement speed increases
DADGE: It tends to get elated easily

NAME: Unity
PREREQUISITE: Colorpandora only
TRIGGER: Monster fails with an attack 5 times in a row or is hit 5 times in a
row (one or the other; not a mix of both)
BONUSES: Unknown
DADGE: They are three but have one mind

Battles are at regular times in the calendar. Here, I show you which battles
appear when and what they give you. Keep in mind that some of these require
specific invitations before the battles show up. These invitations are all
mentioned in the list. If I have forgotten or missed any, feel free to let me

WK  |RK | NAME                  | TYPE  | NO | PURSE
WK = The week of the month
RK = The rank the battle appears at. You may fight in battles that are one
rank above you and as many ranks below you as you wish; fighting in lower-rank
battles will reduce your Fame by a considerable amount, however
NAME = The battle's name
TYPE = What type of battle it is: Round robin means everyone has a chance to
fight everyone. Elimination means the battle is set up in a single elimination
bracket. 1 VS 1 is a single one on one battle. 5 vs 5 is a set of 1 on 1
battles, though your monster will only be fighting in a single one (this is
only the IMa vs FIMBA)
NO = Number of opponents
PURSE = The amount of money you win. Also, any items that may be won as well

Jan |
1   | NONE
2   | C | Torble University Cup | Rnd Robin   | 4 | 3000G
    | B | Sirius Cup            | Rnd Robin   | 4 | 4000G
    | Invitation to Greatest 4 (Must have an S-class monster)
3   | NONE  
4   | F*| New Year Cup          | Elimination | 8 | 4000G
* = This is a free-for-all; the monsters in this battle are anywhere between
level B-S. Don't try it unless you have a powerful monster!

Feb |
1   | Invitation to the Durahan Invitational
2   | D | Torles Tourney | Elimination | 4 | 1000G Plant Chip 
    | B | Poannka Cup    | Rnd Robin   | 4 | 5000G Hopper Chip
    | S | Greatest 4     | Rnd Robin   | 4 | 10000G *
3   | E | Blizzard Cup 	 | Rnd Robin   | 4 | 1000G Naga Chip 
    | C | Kawrea Cup 	 | Rnd Robin   | 4 | 3000G Gaboo Chip
4   | A | Invitational   | 1 VS 1      | 2 | 6000G Double-Edged **
* Must be invited before it will show up the first time
** You must be at B-rank or better and have the Old Sheath to receive the
first invitation. Your monster must be at exactly A-rank for the battle to
show up after this.

Mar |
1   | D |Parepare Cup (Spring)| Rnd Robin | 4 | 2000G Magic Banana
2   | C |Troron Cup           | Rnd Robin | 4 | 2000G Troron
3   | NONE
4   | E | IMa Official Cup (E)| Rnd Robin | 6 | 500G
    | D | IMa Official Cup (D)| Rnd Robin | 6 | 1000G
    | C | IMa Official Cup (C)| Rnd Robin | 8 | 2000G
    | B | IMa Official Cup (B)| Rnd Robin | 8 | 3000G
    | A | IMa Official Cup (A)| Rnd Robin | 8 | 4000G
    | S | IMa Official Cup (S)| Rnd Robin | 8 | 5000G
    | Invitation to Legend Cup (Must have an S-class monster who has
    | finished every one of the Great 4 to be invited)

Apr |
1   | NONE
2   | D | Spring Carnival (D) | Elimination | 4 | 1000G Zuum Chip
    | Invitation to M-1 Grand Prix (Must have an S-class monster)
3   | C | Spring Carnival (C) | Elimination | 4 | 2000G Colorpan Chip
    | A | Phoenix Cup         | Elimination | 4 | 4000G
4   | B | Spring Carnival (B) | Elimination | 4 | 3000G Ape Chip
    | S | Legend Cup          | 1 vs 1      | 2 | 10000G *
* Must be invited before it will show up the first time; battle will be with
Most on even years and Poritoka on odd years

1   | A | IMa Chairman Cup (Spring)| Elimination | 4 | 3000G Dino Tail
2   | C | Colart Cup               | Round Robin | 4 | 3000G
    | S | M-1 Grand Prix           | Round Robin | 4 | 10000G *
3   | E | Blue Sky Cup             | Round Robin | 4 | 1000G
    | A | Taurus Cup               | Round Robin | 4 |5000G TaurusHorn
4   | D | Gemini Cup               | Round Robin | 4 |2000G Gemini Pot
* Must be invited before it will appear the first time

1   | NONE
2   | F | Freshmen's Cup      | Elimination | 8 | 800G *
    | F | Elder's Cup         | Elimination | 8 | 8000G SilverPeach **
3   | NONE
4   | E | IMa Official Cup (E)| Round Robin | 6 | 500G
    | D | IMa Official Cup (D)| Round Robin | 6 | 1000G
    | C | IMa Official Cup (C)| Round Robin | 8	| 2000G
    | B | IMa Official Cup (B)| Round Robin | 8	| 3000G
    | A | IMa Official Cup (A)| Round Robin | 8	| 4000G
    | S | IMa Official Cup (S)| Round Robin | 8 | 5000G
* Your monster must be below 1 year old for this to show up. Monsters in here
are anywhere from E-class to D-class.
** Your monster must be at least 6y 3m before this appears. The monsters in
here are approximately B-A class level.

1   | NONE
2   | D | Nageel Cup          | Round Robin | 4 | 2000G Nageel
    | C | Crab Cup            | Round Robin | 4 | 3000G Crab's Claw
    | B | Papas' Cup (Summer) | Round Robin | 4 | 4000G Pure Gold
    | Invitation to Winner's Cup (Must have an S-class monster)
3   |   | NONE
4   | D | Elimination         | Round Robin | 4 | ??? *
    | C | Elimination         | Round Robin | 4 | ??? *
    | B | Elimination         | Round Robin | 4 | ??? *
    | A | Elimination         | Round Robin | 4 | ??? *
    | S | Elimination         | Round Robin | 4	| 9000G *
* Available every four years (after the original invitation). Only one of
these will show up at a time; it will always be at your monster's level.
Purses for others are unknown. Help fill these in!

Aug |
1   | C |Torble Sea Cup       | Round Robin | 4 | 3000G Star Prune
2   | D | Desert Moon Cup     | Elimination | 4 | 1000G Kato Chip
    | B | Invitational        | 1 VS 1      | 1 | 3000G Dragon Tusk *
    | S | Winners' Cup        | Round Robin | 4 | 10000G *
    | Invitation to the Dragon Invitational (Must have a B-class monster)
3   | E | Monster Pups' Cup   | Round Robin | 4 | 1000G Hare Chip
    | B | Summer Carnival     | Elimination | 4 | 3000G Pixie Chip
4   | D | IMa - FIMBA Meet    | 5 vs 5      |10 | ??? **
    | C | IMa - FIMBA Meet    | 5 vs 5      |10 | ??? **
    | B | IMa - FIMBA Meet    | 5 vs 5      |10 | ??? **
    | A | IMa - FIMBA Meet    | 5 vs 5      |10 | ??? **
    | S | IMa - FIMBA Meet    | 5 vs 5      |10 | ??? **
* Must be invited before it'll show up the first time
** Must have won the Elimination in July for it to show up. Only one battle
will happen; the battle at the rank of the monster who won the Elimination (no
other monster can go to it). The prize money's unknown for me at the moment;
if you can fill this in, let me know.

Sep |
1   | A | Teromeann Cup       | Round Robin | 4	| 4000G Teromeann
2   | E | Artemis Cup         | Round Robin | 4 | 1000G Sculpture
    | B | Manseitan Cup       | Round Robin | 4	| 3000G Manseitan
3   | NONE
4   | E | IMa Official Cup (E)| Round Robin | 6 | 500G
    | D | IMa Official Cup (D)| Round Robin | 6 | 1000G
    | C | IMa Official Cup (C)| Round Robin | 6 | 2000G
    | B | IMa Official Cup (B)| Round Robin | 6 | 3000G
    | A | IMa Official Cup (A)| Round Robin | 6 | 4000G
    | S | IMa Official Cup (S)| Round Robin | 6 | 5000G

1   | NONE
2   | E | Rookie Cup          | Elimination  | 4 | 800G Tiger Chip
    | C | Kasseitan Cup       | Round Robin  | 4 | 2000G Kasseitan
    | B | Papas' Cup (Autumn) | Round Robin  | 4 | 4000G Pure Silver
    | Invitation to World Monsters Cup (Must have an S-class monster)
3   | NONE
4   | F | Heroes' Cup         | Round Robin | 8 | 500G Hero Badge *
    | F | Heel's Cup          | Round Robin | 8 | 500g Heel Badge *
* If your monster is good-natured, the Heroes' Cup will show up. If it's
bad-natured, the Heel's Cup will show up. If your monster is neutral, neither
of these will appear. The monsters in this are approximately level B-A, if you
feel like trying to fight them.

Nov |
1   | NONE
2   | D | Galoe Cup                | Round Robin | 4 | 2000G Monol Chip
    | B | Torble Port Cup          | Round Robin | 4 | 5000G Arrohead Chip
    | S | World Monsters Cup       | Round Robin | 4 | 10000G *
3   | E | Maple Cup                | Elimination | 4 | 800G Suezo Chip
    | C | Mandy Cup                | Round Robin | 4 | 3000G Jell Chip
4   | A | Ima Chairman Cup (Autumn)| Elimination | 4 | 3000G Pure Platina
*Must be invited for it to show up the first time. 

Dec |
1   | D | Parepare Cup (Winter)| Round Robin | 4 | 2000G
2   | B | Larox Cup            | Round Robin | 4 | 3000G Larox
3   | NONE
4   | E | IMa Official Cup (E) | Round Robin | 6 | 500G
    | D | IMa Official Cup (D) | Round Robin | 6 | 1000G
    | C | IMa Official Cup (C) | Round Robin | 6 | 2000G
    | B | IMa Official Cup (B) | Round Robin | 6 | 3000G
    | A | IMa Official Cup (A) | Round Robin | 6 | 4000G
    | S | IMa Official Cup (S) | Round Robin | 6 | 5000G

This Walkthrough of raising styles is not the be-all and end-all of the game.
This will certainly help you in your quest to get the monsters and work your
way toward the top. However, this game is not what could be called linear in
any way. There are 390 monsters in total that you can raise, and hundreds upon
thousands of ways that you can go about raising them. This is just a sheet of
information; don't be afraid to hie out and try your own ways to raise your

You'll notice that none of these raising styles are for any specific species
of monster. This is because any good style will work on just about any
monster. Certainly the *types* of training will change between monsters (dodge
for Speed monsters, target for Skill monsters, et cetera), but the basic idea
of how to go about the raising stays the same. 

Also be aware: most of these styles are not made for maximizing a monster's
lifespan or stats. Some of them are made to get money, others for achieving
high stats in a short amount of time, others for raising a monster with only
small amounts of money. They are guidelines; bare-bones styles to give people
some necessary ideas for how to go about raising a monster for these needs. If
you look at one of these styles and say 'This sucks. I bet it would work
better if...' then do it! Because you're right: it probably *would* work
better 'if'. 

If you have a style that you think should be added to this section, write it
out in detail and send it to me. Please remember that I'm more interested in
styles that are extremely effective at what they do. A general raising style
is helpful, but unless it does something specific in a very effective way,
it's probably best to leave it as 'your own personal style'. 

E1) THE POOR MAN'S METHOD (aka The Beginner)
So, you've just started the game. You've gone and gotten your first monster.
And now it's wandering cheerfully around your ranch while you sit and stare
helplessly at the tiny bit of money you start with and realize, 'What the heck
am I getting myself into?'. Don't feel bad: a lot of people have taken that
first monster and worked it into the ground because of not knowing how to
handle it. Sometimes, doing just that is a good way to learn how to raise your
creature. However, you might not feel like wasting that first monster you got;
you might want to know how to at least give it a good start. Or perhaps you
just finished paying off your next barn upgrade, and are presently back to
only 5000G and no idea how to handle raising your next creature without the
ability to use tons of cash. That's what this method is for: raising a fairly
good monster on a fairly small amount of money.

Keep in mind that although this style does make money, it's not going to be as
much money as a true 'moneymaker' monster will make. It'll be just enough to
get yourself the cash to actually properly make a moneymaker, or at least to
raise a second monster in this style and prepare for combining into a third,
better one.

Items you will need: As this style is for true beginner monsters, there are no
special items that you genuinely need. Mangoes will come into the style in
places to help recover some fatigue, candy can be added to 'up' their form if
you need them to be fatter or powder for thinner, and small numbers of mint
leaves will appear to help counter the effects of stress, but other than that,
everything else is pretty much just gravy.

Cost: Well, being as this is for beginners, the cost is obviously going to be
5,000 or less. 

How it works: While later on in your training time, you'll want to use a ton
of items and make your monsters live for years upon years, you won't be able
to do this in the very beginning. 5000G isn't a lot of money, and it's money
that, if you do try to buy a lot of items to keep your monster healthy, will
run out unbearably fast. So we're focusing instead on being able to get those
first monsters through their 'good' years, open a few things up for you, and
to give you enough points to earn a bit of extra cash for proper raising.

Method: First of all, as long as it doesn't obviously dislike it (watch for it
to make the 'yuck' face), we're going to be feeding your pet 'milk' through
the beginning of its life. This food isn't as effective in controlling stress
as, say, tablets, but the cost difference (50g as opposed to 500g) is going to
be fairly important to your poor beginner. Just be prepared for the
possibility of an occasional stress warning. The bad news is that when you see
this, you have lost lifespan. The good news is that you should still be able
to make up enough stats even with that lifespan loss to keep yourself in the
running. If this happens, feed your monster a mint leaf and rest it
*immediately*. You can get it on track afterwards. However, the important
thing to do is to get rid of as much of that stress as possible, so it won't
lose any more lifespan to it. It'd be even better if you can get the monster
into a battle, but one of those isn't always around, and you're not always
strong enough to take them, so be prepared to buy a bit. As a suggestion, when
Auntie Verde gets her first sale going on, buy about five mangoes and five mint
leaves. Whenever another sale comes up, refresh this number to that critical
'five each'. 

Now, for training your monster, we're going to be almost painfully easy on
them. For most of their early lifespan, train your monster in two light
drills, then rest. Then two light drills, then rest. If they do bad, feel
free to punish them now and again to keep them at either 'even' or 'soft', but
don't let them drop into 'strict' or go so far as into 'fond'. 

Go in this pattern until you see a marked improvement in stat-gain, or a
growth in size (compare their size at the 'feeding' screen and you'll be able
to see it). Then send your monster on its first errantry. Try and choose a
move that will be effective in battles, as opposed to just picking one that's
there for the tech-chains. Those can come later. Feed them a mint leaf and
rest them when they return, and a mango once they wake up. Then, continue
focusing on their good stats. By now, they should have stopped liking milk and
you can start feeding them a heftier food: fish. If they show a marked dislike
for fish, though, go instead to cup jelly. Be prepared to buy some extra candy
unless you want them dodging, though; cup jellies are very slimming.

Once you're at this stage, you should have high enough stats to start winning
E-class battles. Rather than immediately making a bid for the next class, give
them a few fights at the present level to 'feel things out'. It'll not only
give you some extra cash, but let you burn off your monster's stress hard and
fast. Upon getting out of battles, feed them a mango and then rest them; it'll
make certain they're at 'very well'. When you can manhandle opponents in
E-class (you may want to experiment fighting an unofficial D-class to see if
you can handle it; if you can, you're at the perfect level), then it's time
for your next step up: the E-class Official. It should be a cakewalk.

Now that you have fighting being a regular part of your training regime, the
training is stepped up a notch: Hard Drill/Light Drill/Light Drill/Rest

Keep up with the fights, take your jumps only when you can handle *the level
above* the one you're at, so you can continue battling to relieve stress (and
get the good items) rather than having long breaks of possible stress-gain in
between. If you're feeling particularly daring, and it's getting close to
battle-time, do Hard Drill/Hard Drill/Rest, feeding a mint leaf after the first
one, then enter battle. 

Keep an eye on your monster's stat gains in their training. It'll eventually
start going back down. When this happens, your monster is in the 'downslide'
of their lifespan. Don't panic too hard, though. For one thing, the gains in
battles will be just as high. For another thing, they may stay in this stage
for a long time before it's retirement time. And finally, this is the perfect
time to start focusing on collecting a few moves and making a bid for the
higher categories. If you somehow happen to have peaches, this is where you
would feed them to your monster in order to push them back into the 'prime'
statgains. Of course, as we're assuming you're a beginning trainer, you won't
have any. When your monster isn't in a fight, send them to errantry for a
move; waiting for the cheap ones is best for this because of low cash, but if
you're making enough, splurge. Feed them a mint leaf and rest afterwards, hand
them a mango the week they wake up, and then give them a few weeks of training
and fighting to 'shake it off' before you go on the next one. Make certain
your monster is earning enough money to pay for these, though! If it isn't,
you need to go through more battles. 

When your monster's stats are down considerably, make certain you save every
week. Likely, Coltia will warn you eventually that the monster is getting old
and should retire, upon which time it's generally a good idea to do as she
says. However, there's always the possibility of being off the ranch when she
would say that. And if that's the case, it's possible that your monster could
die off without much warning, thus losing you the chance for a combining
creature. My usual suggestion is to get as many moves as you can in the later
years, then freeze the monster away and make another one. Hopefully with the
money you'll have made from this beginner, you'll be able to have your second
live a longer, healthier life with extra items.

E2) THE MONEYMAKER (aka Mr. Trump)
After you get the first few monsters out of your way, you might find some of
these styles that are superior and needing tons of money, or have a specific
monster that you simply *must* see how far you can get him to go. The basic
monsters you raise might not be making enough money to keep up with them all.
That's what this style concept is for. It'll raise you a monster that will
make you upwards of 150,000-200,000G all on its own. Quite a big amount, I'm
sure you'll agree! And that doesn't count what you'll make from selling off
the goodies that come with winning the battles! One good Moneymaker can make
you enough to raise two monsters in a weekly-item style alone, or five or six
in more item-light styles.

Anyhow, this style is best used on a monster that's been combined to create it
in order to save some time on errantries since you'll definitely be needing
fighting moves. However, if you haven't got one, then a CD or market monster
will work just fine; it'll just make a little less in the way of money since
you'll have to spend cash and lifespan on errantries.

Items needed: While you can raise your monster extremely cheaply, the more
stress you put on it in its early years, the less lifespan it will have to be
able to make you cash later on. So this style relies on the use of a number of
mint leaves and nuts oils. It'll also rely on some more costly foods in the
early years: 500G a'piece, unless you're strapped for cash. A fire stone or
chunk of ice would also be very nice: getting one with early monsters would
help a *lot*. 

Cost: This style can fairly easily be done with around 15,000-30,000G. It
could be done even cheaper if you're willing to take bigger risks, but
starting out with your monster can be costly since almost all stat-raising is
going to be done with actual workouts, rather than through battles. Those come

How it works: The most prolific fights that you can get in the game are those
at B-class. There are simply more battles there than there are anywhere else.
In addition, when you're at B-class, you can reach for those battles at
A-class as well, which are worth even more in the way of money, goods, and
stats. As long as you're in no hurry to go anywhere, you can take advantage of
this for years upon years.

Method: First off, the food that you'll want to feed the monster for this
style in the beginning is Tablets. Even if the monster specifically dislikes
them, it'll be the biggest reduction in stress, and that's exactly what we're
going to need here. The only difference is if you want your monster to be fat;
if that's the case, I suggest feeding it meat if it likes it. Be careful,
though: this will spoil them given enough time. Be ready with patience and
smoked snakes to keep them on the level. 

Now, for a training regime, you're going to be a lot harder on them than the
beginner monsters. To start out, use the following rhythm: Light Drill/Light
Drill/Light Drill/Rest. If you wanted to be brave, or to reset a lot, you can
replace the first light drill with a heavy one. However, at this stage in the
game, until your monster's matured a little, it's liable to fail at it a lot.
Sometimes, it's easier to start slow. For items, it should look like this:
<whatever>/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf/<whatever>. Where it says 'whatever', that's
what it means: you can go without anything, you can add some powder to make
your monster skinnier, you can add candy to make it fatter, smoked snakes to
keep it 'even', or even an extra mint leaf so you can make that hard drill.
Focus on the stats that it gains best in: the gains will be very small right
now, so maximizing them is the best thing that you can do. Also, if you have a
need for errantries (the monster isn't a second generation or otherwise
combined), you should do it after you've gained some stats and loyalty, but
before the monster has had time to grow too much. You won't get the big gains
in errantry, but we're looking for the move more than the stats. If your
monster gets stressed (possible but not likely) immediately feed it a mint
leaf and rest it right then and there. 

Keep an eye on your monster in the area of the 'feeding barn'. When it has
grown its first step, then you step up your own raising. Now, instead of all
those light drills, we'll be going Heavy Drill/Light Drill/Heavy Drill/Rest.
The rhythm of items is the exact same as above: <anything>/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf/
<anything>. By now, you should be up high enough in stats to take some
fights on. My suggestion with this monster: don't battle until the first
official you feel prepared for. And at that point, rather than just going for
the E-class, jump past E and go to D instead. In other words, make your
monster jump from E-Class directly to C-Class; you'll save several weeks in
lifespan loss that way. Once you've gotten to C-class, keep raising stats.
You'll want the monster to be better. As soon as you can, take the C-class
official and make the monster B-Class. Now the important part: NEVER LEAVE IT.

'What?' you ask. 'That doesn't make any sense'. Well, take a look at what I
said in 'how it works'. On this level, you'll get more money than you'll get
anywhere else except for S-Class. And we're assuming that your monsters aren't
quite good enough to make S-Class yet (which is why you need the money). Now
that you're on B-Class, keep raising the stats. By now, you should be in your
prime (at the second growth period). If not, send your monster through another
errantry to sneak in another move or so. Once you're in prime, however, raise
it, and raise it hard. Use the hard drill/light drill/hard drill/rest rhythm
here. Build your stats until you can start taking the B-Class battles. And
once you can do that, start doing it. Fight every B-class fight that you can
handle. In between the battles, go back to the training rhythm. Just make sure
that before the fights, they get proper rest (or at least a nuts oil). Also,
keep prodding at A-Class battles. Eventually, if you keep this up, you'll be
powerful enough to handle those as well as the B-Class. When that happens, you
can really start making the cash. 

In addition, you can start really saving on money: feed your monster the
*cheapest* food that it 'likes'. Yes, this could include potatoes. 'Are you
insane?' you ask. Why, yes. But what does that have to do with anything? Er,
in seriousness, with how often your monster will be fighting, its stress level
should be at a constant zero or near-zero. And the rest in between will bottom
it out. However, if there's a long period without a fight (like June) or you
decide to go on an errantry (I suggest waiting until your stats gain from
training starts to go down), make sure you feed tablets after that. The
monster will be needing it! 

If you feel daring enough, you can eventually take this monster and push it
beyond this level. However, since this monster is being used for making cash,
you may as well leave it at B-class until it's good enough to be frozen and
combined. Or, if you're feeling particularly cruel, keep going until it dies
(since you'll eventually need dead monsters to do some monster-unlocking). 

In addition, if you want to make it last even longer, take a monster and raise
it as a 'dummy' monster in between B and A-class fights. Freeze your
moneymaker away in between battles and exchange them for the duration of the
fight. It'll extend their fighting years by a good amount. Just be certain
that he's handling A-Class battles with ease before you do this.

Extra Hint: Another way to make a lot of cash, if you don't mind the time
spent to do it, is to raise multiple monsters. Raise one so it can handily
beat E-class, then freeze it. Raise a second one up to D-Class. Freeze. Raise
a third to C-Class. Then take a final monster to help pass the time in between
battles by raising it in basic stats (a monster that Monster Rancher
Metropolis terms a 'dummy' or 'throwaway' monster). Fight every fight you can
with those three monsters, and they'll earn you a good pocketful of change. In
addition, they'll be gaining some stats from the training, so when they're old
enough that their death is getting close, you can combine them into something
better. This can be an excellent way to build up some cash flow early in the
game, as well as to 'practice' raising monsters to specific levels.

E3) THE BREEDER (aka Mr. Stud)
While this method can easily create a monster that will go a long way, the
most common use for it is to help 'engineer' a better combination for later
monsters. Stats are carefully regulated and moves are gotten in good-sized
numbers. This is a monster who's designed to make the best combination
possible, rather than to honestly go very far in the game. In other words,
this monster shouldn't be one of your first monsters; it's going to cost a lot
and possibly not make back its cash. On the other hand, it will make an
excellent monster for combining later; it will have the moves and the stats to
be able to give you a heck of a combination, and thus give you a little one
that'll be well-statted and with lots of moves right out of the gate. 

This style tends to be somewhat more monotonous than others, since while you
will have some battles to make it up, you'll be saving on lifespan to focus on
actual numbers on your baby monster. Still, if you can keep your focus on it,
its offspring will easily make it well worth what you went through with the

Items needed: Getting hold of a chunk of ice or a fire stone are a very good
idea. In addition, this is a style that will be taking a lot of mint leaves
and nuts oils to be able to keep your monster healthy; be prepared for it all!
In addition, getting hold of a golden and/or silver peach might be an
excellent idea as well. After all, the more time the monster has, the better
the stats can get. Something else that would be extremely handy to have for
this monster is a copy of the 'combining' FAQ. While you can likely make good
combinations even without it, that extra help will allow you to see
specifically which stats you want to raise and to which level. Even without
it, though, you can get a good idea of what you want to 'up' your monster in,
so don't panic if you don't have it available, or want to muddle through it on
your own.

Cost: This can be an expensive training style. While the monster may make
itself up some money in a few battles, you'll be mostly going with techs. So
assume a cost of 50,000-75,000. I know. 'Wow'. This is one of the reasons that
a good moneymaker is handy to have before raising one of these (in fact,
ironically enough, you may want to raise Mr. Stud specifically to combine
with the moneymaker who created the cash for it; how's that for thanks?)

How it works: Combining has a lot to do with the stats' order and comparison
between the two monsters being combined. For that reason, if you want to get a
better combination, you've got to have two similar monsters with statistics
that are as close to one another as possible. Unfortunately, raising your
monsters in battles and such can knock this out of alignment rather badly;
stats from battles are random, so unless you want to do a lot of resetting and
the like, you'll end up with gains all over the place. Good when you're trying
to max a monster or go far with it. Not good when you're trying to regulate
the monster for combining. 

Method: From day 1 on, you'll be feeding this monster Tablets. The ideal
situation is to have a monster that loves tablets (either because of natural
liking or because of the random likes/dislikes), though one that is neutral to
them works as well. As a matter of fact, disliking them will, but the monster
will generally be worse-inclined toward you because of the constant
'punishments'. They don't know it's for their own good! 

Training-wise, there are two ways you can go: either with a light drill/light
drill/light drill/rest, or heavy drill/light drill/heavy drill/rest. The
second one will raise stats faster, but in the beginning, your monster will
fail these difficult drills much more often. You will either spend time with
the monster needing to be scolded (or not) or be doing a lot of resetting.
Either way, though, it's your choice. Generally, I suggest giving them around
four or five months at all light drills before you start them in the heavy
drills. For items, you'll give <whatever>/Mint Leaf/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf. For
that <whatever>, you can have your pick: candy to keep it fat, powder to keep
it skinny, smoked snakes to make it even, apple cake to take it out of strict,
jellies to make it good/evil, or maybe even a magic banana to give it a week
of extra lifespan. 

Now, what you'll be wanting to do is focusing very carefully on those stats
you want. Remember how the basics of combining works and keep those stats as
far in line with the other monster's as you can. Focus fully on getting your
monster statistics, rather than anything else. Send them on their errantries
in their younger years to help take advantage of the fact their gains won't be
as good on the farm, though. We're going to want this monster to have as many
moves as possible without losing too much in the way of statgain. But if you
do go to an errantry, make sure that it's for one that won't throw the stat
numbers off too hard. You will need moves, yes, but you're not going to want
to end up with stats that are way out of whack. So if you are trying to get a
creature whose Intelligence needs to be lowest, prepare to avoid the
Intelligence errantry (unless the monster has really hideous gains in
Intelligence; more info on that in the 'combining' FAQ). On the other hand, if
they need to have Power the highest, then by all means send them to that Power
drill as often as you want in order to get them moves and to get the stat up
as well. Basically, focus on the stat carryover at this stage before the move
carryover. Make certain that you'll get excellent stats before you worry about
getting more than six moves.

As the monster grows, so will its stat-gains. Keep that rhythm up for its
entire life: Hard Drill/Light Drill/Hard Drill/Rest, <whatever>/Mint Leaf/Nuts
Oil/Mint Leaf. Grab a few more moves in adolescence while you're at it: when
you're in the monster's prime, you'll want to dedicate every week it has to
getting up stats, since this is where the biggest number gains will be. If you
really want to, feel free to send it to some battles in order to get it up to
B-class for moves, but be warned: 'special' moves don't cross over. They'll
add up into the 'number' of moves to pass, but no special move can be passed
on through breeding. 

Wait until your monsters' stats are going on a downward swing, then feed them
any peaches you have. The best time to do this is at the end of a week, so you
can see if the monster shrinks. If it did, then you've used the peach a little
early; either reset and try in a few months, or just go on (if you don't like
resetting), and say 'oops'. 

Something you may want to do is to stop raising your monster before the
numbers go down, or stop immediately after feeding them the last peach you
can. It has been proven fairly thoroughly that moves pass more efficiently
with monsters in their prime. So if you're going for a super-baby, taking the
monster and combining it in its prime is probably a good idea. Of course if
you're going for raw numbers and not worrying so much about moves, you can
probably instead risk just going for more stat numbers. Just keep in mind
trying to make that 'great' combination. Otherwise, continue the rhythm of
that raising style, dropping into the light drills to 'even out' the stats
that need the most balancing toward the proper level(s). Especially if it's

E4) THE MARKET MONSTER (aka Fast N' Furious)
This training style lives up to its name: in the span of an incredibly short
amount of time, you can have a monster who has beaten the game from beginning
to end, right directly off a CD or right out of the monster market. As an
example, here is a monster who was raised in this style, created by combining
a newly-purchased Zuum with a newly-purchased arrowhead:

Crab Saurian (Zuum/Arrowhead)
Lif: 841
Pow: 999
Int: 554
Ski: 999
Spd: 723
Def: 999
Age: 4y 6m
Beat Master Cup: Approx: 2y 5m old
Techs: Roll Assault, Charge, Jumping Claw, Fire Ball, Tail, Claw, Million
Claws, Bite
Both peaches used for lifespan.

Hardcore, huh? Note, this monster still has a little life left on him (six
months or so at best) to be able to get some more stats and win some more
money. However, keep in mind that this is a creature who could easily live to
around 6-7 years *without* peaches normally (even longer if you're maximizing
lifespan), and you'll get an idea for how hard this style is on them. However,
if you're looking to get a monster up in the ranks *fast*, then this is the
style to use. As a warning: this style is not suggested for use on the
extremely short-lived creatures such as Jokers, Dragons, and Monols. This will
give them incredible stats, but it'll be pushing it to expect them to be able
to beat S-class even with peaches (although they *should* still be excellent
fighting creatures and will get to a high level even if they haven't got the
'time' to pass The Big 4). 

Items you will need: Drugs. Lots of drugs. I usually suggest against using
drugs because of the dangerous effect they have on the monster's lifespan, but
for the speedy raising like this one receives, drugs are the best thing in the
world. I highly suggest Paradoxine (check out the Torles expedition to find
where you get it), although barring that, you can buy (or win) Troron to help
raise the stats as well. Two or three ampoules of paradoxine will do for a
good starting boost (the above monster was made with only three), though the
more you have, the higher the stats will be able to go in the early years
(although six should probably be your max on any monster; remember the hit on
lifespan). The usual regime of mint leaves and nuts oils comes in handy early
here, too, to keep your poor monster from losing even *more* lifespan from
being stressed. However, it should be doing enough fighting that stress won't
have the time to get high later on in life. On the other hand, Fire Stone/Lump
Of Ice will actually be of fairly low use in this style; your poor monster
won't get a lot of rest, so it won't get the stress and fatigue reduction of
resting all that often. Both peaches here are practically a *must*, with the
lifespan loss that you'll 'look forward to' with this. 

Cost: Surprisingly cheap. Thanks to the large gain in stats, your monster will
both pay for itself incredibly swiftly, and needs very little in the way of
purchased 'upkeep'. Assume needing to start with around 10,000 to be able to
pull this off effectively, although because you'll need to be a few years into
the game to make certain you have the drugs available, you'll likely have more;
don't be afraid to splurge on the good items. However, if you are using Troron
instead of Paradoxine for this, add in the money needed to buy these drugs;
around 1200G a'piece if you aren't buying them on sale days. 

How it works: As mentioned in the 'items' section, Paradoxine gives your
monster +30 in Skill and Power at a cost of 10% (around 9-12 points or so each
at this point in your monster's lifespan) in Defence and Speed each training
they go to for four weeks. However, it also saps a whopping 18 weeks from
their lifespan each time it's given. This, however, also has its advantages in
a way: your monster doesn't lose its lifespan from the 'end' of its life, so
much as it continues more quickly into an 'advanced' stage of life, thus
gaining stats more quickly. And while the paradoxine (or Troron) strips those
years away, it's also giving gains in the time it *does* stay effective that
are much, much superior to what the baby would naturally have gained in that
time. Yes, there are stats being removed as well if you're using Paradoxine,
but once those stats reach 1, they won't go any lower, and depending on the
monster, those stats can be made up again fairly swiftly. 

Method: First of all, get your monster onto the farm and feed them their first
dose of Paradoxine/Troron. Then, work them for four weeks in one of the basic
six 'single arrow' gains. DO NOT work them in Speed or Defence if you're using
Paradoxine; these points will just end up being wasted because of the
Paradoxine's losses. The best item schedule for this, to make the gains work
their best, is Drug/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf/Nuts Oil. Keep that rhythm up: Light
Drill/Light Drill/Light Drill/Light Drill, Paradoxine(Troron)/Nuts Oil/Mint
Leaf/Nuts Oil. If you've got the cash for it, feed them tablets every week. If
not, go with fish for now.

Once you have used up all the Paradoxine (or have gone about five or six
months with Troron), go on its first errantry to make certain it has at least
one move other than the basics. I suggest a Power-based move if they have one;
your monster's Power by this point will be easily three times that of your
Intelligence, and likely more. If not, then make certain you've spent your
time raising Intelligence on the side, and go for one of the other moves
(needless to say, this style works a *lot* better for monsters with
Power-based attacks). At this point, you should be able to get your monster
up to D-class. Possibly even into C-class. Do so as soon as you can; your
monster does no one any good by bumming around at E-class levels. If you have
time in between the fight and your raising, start a basic rhythm of Hard
Drill/Light Drill/Hard Drill/rest, giving it nothing (or whatever might be
handy)/Mint Leaf/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf. Using that, you should easily be able to
get your monster up to C-class before it's even a year old. 

By this point, your monster will probably be getting up in years (well...
effectively), unless you've selected a long-lived creature. If it's still only
in 'adolescence', give it another run at errantry to get it another helpful
move. Otherwise, take the time in 'prime' to give its stats a good, hard
working. To get higher, you're going to need some defensive stats, after all.
To that end, don't make an attempt at the C-class official until you've taken
some time to raise your stats. Work them on a Hard Drill/Light Drill/Hard
Drill/Light Drill schedule, using Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf and
feeding tablets every month until you feel sure you can handle it. Don't be
afraid to send your monster to other battles to keep its stress down and make
you some money, but focus more on raising stats the 'natural' way for now. If
your number-gains are going on a downhill slide, gulp one of those peaches and
keep the monster in its prime. This could take a few months; try not to be too
impatient while you're working on it. Once you have the stats, though, don't
hesitate: stop your raising for a week, take C-class and move into B. 

Here's where you will be both making money and statistics on your monster.
Like the moneymaker, leave your monster here, fighting the B and A class
battles as much as you can. In addition to gaining cash, your monster will be
gaining stats, which is very very helpful for this stage. However, unlike the
moneymaker, your object is not to stay at B-Class, but to make a leap for
S-Class when the right time comes. So continue the stat-raising in between
fights (generally a hard drill and a nuts oil, though rest if they need it),
go out on errantries between fights to get yourself some more moves, and
prepare for that S-Class lunge. What about A-class? I suggest simply skipping
the official B-class so you can battle both B and A without losing popularity
up until that point. Hit just the A-class one and head into S-class. In the
same vein, gain in stats hard and fast until you can take S-class and go for

Here's where the big challenge comes in. Now that you're in (and past)
S-class, you've got the Big-4 battles to take on. My suggestion is to save
before the battles so you can reset if you're totally outgunned. Take them as
soon as you can; each fight will garner you a whopping +10 to +14 gain in
three stats and a large amount of cash. And if you can't take one, then simply
train your way along, and go on to the next. Don't be afraid to leap on the
official S-class tournaments that come along as well. You'll get no items for
it, but they're worth the money and stats. If you haven't already popped both
peaches, use them here to keep your monster up on its feet and continue
raising the numbers, fighting the battles, and going through until you can
handle the big fight. Thump up on main monster butt, and you've now got a Hall
Of Fame monster who may well be under 4 years old total. Even if you can't
make that last hurdle, you should have high enough stats that the monster will
be an awesome combiner, plus it will have made you absolutely *scads* of money
in the meantime. Not a bad trade-off! Plus, if you *really* want to make some
cash and he's got the time left in life, freeze that monster away and wake him
up only as needed for the rest of the S-Class battles. I can guarantee that
you'll have oodles of money after raising him.

For methods which maximize the monster's growth and lifespan while minimizing
their 'wasted time', check out Monster Rancher Metropolis and its 'Raising
Styles' section. They have many more raising styles in much more detail than
the ones I've put down here. These are simply a good way for you to start out,
and for doing specifics. Those are primarily set up for people who have a lot
of money and some practice on the game.

So. You've read all of the above, you have all the information that can be
given, you've tried the styles, and yet you're *still* not exactly sure how to
raise a super-critter in order to beat the big bosses? Then have no fear. This
detailed walkthrough will show you how to go about doing it. This will show
from the beginning of raising until the end, using examples of all the things
above, including item use, errantry, combining, battles, and raising styles.
While the monster that it will create may not be able to get you all the way
to the Master Class, it will, at least, get you a monster who should be
powerful enough to beat S-Class for you.

You will notice that this step-by-step contains two specific creatures. Why
did I do this, when up above I said that any creatures could be raised, and
that the player himself should attempt to find their favorites? Well, there are
a number of reasons. For one thing, these creatures are both directly out of
the market. This means that I can be certain that they will both be available
for the player to use, rather than having to hope the player will have
specific CDs. For a second thing, specifying which monsters are being used
lets the description for what stats must be raised and how be as workable as
possible. And finally, by controlling the monsters, by specifying the type of
monsters that are being raised, it makes it easier to work out a 'perfect'
combination in order to maximize the baby's stats.

While I highly suggest that people try out their CDs and play around with
monsters for several game-years on their own, this is a 'walkthrough' that
could be done from day 1, year 1, on the starting 5000g. To this end, the
monsters aren't going to be as high-statted as creatures raised with tons of
money would be. However, they should still be high enough to make the
combination worthwhile and to give their baby the leg-up that it needs to be
able to go higher in the ranks than the parents themselves would have.

Underneath various areas, you will see that I've got listings of the monster's
stats. This is *not* the 'necessary' stats of your monster, but the level which
the stats of the one I raised as an example got. Your own may be higher or
lower, but should at least be approximately the same as to what is listed here.
These raised monsters were being done as examples of how the raising style
looks, rather than as any exact must-have numbers.

The first thing you will need to do is go to the 'monster market' and pick
yourself up a Zuum and an Arrowhead. The Zuum will always be in the market,
while the Arrowhead is a 'seasonal' monster, and can only be picked up in
summer. Therefore, this walkthrough will be assuming that the Zuum you've
gotten will be raised first, since you may have to wait for some time to get
hold of an Arrowhead depending on when you decide to try this. If you don't
have an Arrowhead available when you start, simply raise your Zuum until the
summer, freeze it, get the Arrowhead from the market, freeze that, and take
your Zuum back out. There'll be no extra time lost on your monster for doing
something that quick. And best to keep the Arrowhead in your freezer; that way
you can be certain that you have one on-hand for when you are finished with
the Zuum, since it'll be difficult to tell exactly when that'll be. Don't
worry. It'll be perfectly safe there, no matter how long it takes for you to
raise that Zuum up.

Now, take the Zuum to your farm.

Starting Stats:
Lif: 130
Pow: 120
Int: 80
Ski: 140
Spd: 100
Def: 110

These starting stats are the exact same for every market-gotten Zuum.

Now. What we're going to be doing with this monster is twofold: we're going to
be raising money to be able to raise your final monster to full effect, and
we're going to be getting this creature some moves to make sure that 'final
monster' has a good selection. To this end, the raising style we'll be using
primarily is 'The Moneymaker' (for an explanation, see 'Raising Styles').
However, you'll notice that the stats which I'm suggesting you raise are
carefully calculated. This is because the parents are being directly
engineered in order to create the best possible combination for the baby. In
this, it's somewhat resembling 'The Breeder' (again: see Raising Styles),
though it's nowhere near as utterly regulated; we're still getting battles in
for stats. 

First thing's first: feed that Zuum of yours milk while it's a baby. This will
save you money and be a fairly good food for it, as long as it doesn't have
'milk' in its 'dislikes' section (if it does, I suggest feeding fish from day
1; you'll end up losing more money but it'll keep the Zuum from being
stressed). While you're feeding the Zuum, examine where its head comes up to
on the barn in the background. That will be the best way for you to check what
stage of its lifespan the Zuum in, and that will be very important later.

After it's fed, it'll be time for it to begin. If this isn't your very first
monster, then use a dummy monster to raise for a few weeks and bring your Zuum
onto the farm on the first week of the month. That way you can keep up the
rhythm without much of an effort.

Now, here's the basic order you'll be wanting to raise the Zuum's stats in:
Skill, Defense, Life, Power, Speed, Intelligence. To that end, we're going to
want to do a basic drill of Light/Light/Rest. For the 'light' drill, use
Shoot. This will raise the Zuum's Skill up, and give you some added bonus in
the 'hitting' area when it does come time to fight. But let's not get ahead of
ourselves: we're focusing on training, first. You'll be wanting to do this
until the first sale from Auntie Verde. On that day, buy yourself some
mint leaves and nuts oil (an even number of them; six and six, if you have no
other items and the basic barn). Now, you can take a step up in the training
for a while. Instead of the two lights, go for Heavy/Light/Light/Rest, while
giving these items: Nothing/Mint Leaf/Nuts Oil/Nothing. In here, the Heavy
drill you should be using is 'Swim'. This will bring up both the Zuum's
Defence and Life. Once you run out of items, go back to the Light/Light/Rest.
Repeat this order: buy when it's cheap, use the items, and then let off a bit.
The longer you go, the better your monster will get at succeeding, and this is
what we're looking for.

Watch for your Zuum's numbers to go up slightly, or for the loyalty to go
above 40, whichever comes first. Once that's done, send him on the first cheap
errantry that shows up. You can essentially choose whichever one you want to
go to, but I suggest going to the Power errantry. That will bring up your
Power somewhat, and it'll give you a heavy tech (likely 'bite'; if it's
fireball, you may want to try resetting to see if you can get bite).

10 months (directly after first errantry):
Lif: 134
Pow: 126
Int: 80
Ski: 215
Spd: 100
Def: 110

You may get a stress warning or two early in life, with this. If you do, simply
give the monster a mint leaf and rest it immediately, then get back into the
regular rhythm. Early on, these should be pretty rare. However, you may find
your monster getting soft. if you have the extra money, Smoked Snakes can help
this, though liberal punishments for a job poorly done is the best way to fix
the problem. 

Now, if this is your very first monster, or you are very low in cash, don't be
afraid to start putting it through a few fights fairly early in its life. Not
only will this give it some small stat boosts (if it wins) and some big stress
reduction (whether it wins or loses), but it will supply you with money to keep
it going with the raising and with feeding. And it'll be practice with the
combat for when you finally do get the stats to be able to jump for the next

1y 1m (after first battle):
Lif: 139
Pow: 126
Int: 77
Ski: 234
Spd: 102
Def: 140

When your monster is showing enough in stats to be able to pass E-class, feel
free to do so: take the E-class battle and waste them. If you've been
following the rhythm, the Zuum's Skill should be the highest stat he has, and
it should be high enough to make his physical attacks hit well. In E-class,
that's about all you need. Likewise with D-class; you can probably make it
without having to go up too far in age if the training is going well. However,
don't try going too early! Make sure your monster has the stats to be able to
handle it! Assume having around a 250-300 in Skill and/or Defence to be able to
handle E-class with ease, and likely to be able to beat D-class fairly well.
If you're not positive, experiment with a non-Official and reset if you're
getting murdered. 

D-class: 1y 8m
Lif: 165
Pow: 132
Int: 72
Ski: 283
Spd: 112
Def: 204

C-class: 2y 9m
Lif: 251
Pow: 209
Int: 61
Ski: 416
Spd: 115
Def: 326

In addition, to make some extra cash, you may want to dawdle a bit and fight
some extras on these levels. Don't do too many, though; you'll need the
lifespan to be able to get up to B-Class if at all possible. 

By this point, your Zuum should either be entering, or have entered, the second
part of its life, when it grows in size from its babyhood to the next level. If
it hasn't, then give it some more working out the way you had before. Once it
has grown, however, you're going to want to switch its training around. Now,
the numbers it's getting are better. 

Note: the Zuum I raised entered its first growth a little before the D-class
battle, at 1y 5m. The stats when it did so:

First growth: 1y 5m:
Lif: 148
Pow: 128
Int: 70
Ski: 234
Spd: 105
Def: 191

Now we swing into the style of the Moneymaker more officially:
Hard Drill/Light Drill/Hard Drill/Rest, feeding
<whatever>/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf/<whatever>. For trainings, try this pattern:
Swim/Shoot/Pull/Rest. If Power starts getting higher than Defence, stop
training in Pull and start training extra in Swim. In addition, if Power is
getting higher than Life, stop training in Shoot for a while and turn instead
to Run. If you can get up high enough in stats, feel free to take the C-class
battle and get into B. However, you'll need your stats to be approximately in
the 400s across the board, or in 550-ish + for two or three stats. Don't be
afraid if you haven't gotten your numbers up to this level. Just focus on
fighting the occasional battle in the level you're on (to make sure stress is
relieved) and keep your mind on how to raise up those stats. You may also want
to go on another errantry for other moves; take your choice, but remember not
to let stats get out of hand. Eventually, when you go to feed your monster,
you'll find it's grown again. Now it's at its most important stage.

3 years (Second growth/Prime)
Lif: 277
Pow: 227
Int: 59
Ski: 440
Spd: 133
Def: 349

By now, your Zuum is reached prime. Now, its gains are going to be higher than
any other point in its life, and you'll want to pull full focus on all its
stats to be able to make it the best monster possible while still being able
to have it be a 'perfect combination' for later. These are the main stats
you'll want to focus on right now, and in this order: Skill, Defense, Life,
and Power. Speed needs to be lower than Power, and while Intelligence doesn't
need to be lower than all of them (due to 'correcting', Intelligence is
divided by 2 to get its 'true number), don't let it get *too* high. In the
same way Intelligence is divided, Skill is multiplied by x1.5. All others
correct as the exact same number. 

If you have the time and ability, feel free to max out the Zuum's Skill and
Defense. It won't hurt the combination at all, and it'll be great help for you
in battles later on. However, make certain that the Zuum's Power is *always*
lower than its Defence. Due to baseline stats of the Zuum, Power is actually
considered 'higher' than Defense. In other words, you can't max Life or Power
out on it, or it will automatically be considered as having a higher Power
level than Defense no matter what. Make certain Life is higher than Power and
Power is higher than Speed; not too hard a thing to do with the way trainings
go. Speed and Intelligence are last; as long as you make sure Intelligence
isn't twice as large as Speed, these can be pretty much left mostly alone in
training, other than to get a few levels up for protection. 

This is where you should primarily focus on stats only, since your monster
will never again get stat-gains this high. If you feel like jumping up to
B-Class (or whichever class is above you now), you can, of course, but it's
better to focus on stat-gains instead. Wait until the stats start to taper off
before you lean to the next step in the raising style. After all, getting to
B-class is going to take 450-500 in several stats, and that's no slouch.
Especially when you're trying to keep your stats balanced. 

B-class: 3y 9m (still in prime)
Lif: 379
Pow: 352
Int: 34
Ski: 556
Spd: 118
Def: 517

By the time your gains start on the downswing, your stats should be getting
high enough to let you beat monsters in B-Class at least somewhat. Do that as
much as you want. Just keep a careful eye on the stats as you do so. Don't let
the gains in stats throw you off the 'line' too badly. Remember, stats in this
order: Skill(multiplied by 1.5), Defense, Life, Power, Speed,
Intelligence(divided by 2). Now, take the chance and start fighting in B-Class
(or in C-class, if you can't quite get to B-class). The more money this monster
can make for your second monster, the more helpful it will be. 

First B-class victory (4y 6m):
Lif: 443
Pow: 437
Int: 27
Ski: 655
Spd: 113
Def: 614

5 years (and first A-class victory)
Lif: 481
Pow: 473
Int: 41
Ski: 696
Spd: 122
Def: 673

Also, don't be afraid to send it on errantries in between the fights. You'll
want to have a big selection of moves, both for your own use in combat and for
the baby to get the chance on acquiring in combination. 

Focus on making money and getting moves with this monster. Just make sure you
are keeping those stats in line; if one of the fights or errantries throws them
out, go through some training to adjust them back out. And remember not to let
the wrong stats get maxed out if you can help it. 

Eventually, your Zuum isn't going to be able to continue. As soon as the stats
are getting down into 'baby' levels again, I suggest saving and sending him on
an errantry or two to get final moves. If he dies during the errantry, reset
and bring him back to 'life'. Of course if you don't want to do resetting,
then don't send him on those risky last errantries. Just bring him to the
freezer. Now it's time to swap your monsters: switch the Zuum out for either a
dummy monster (to train a few weeks away until the first of the month) or for
the Arrowhead (if it's already the first of the month). 

Retirement warning: 5y 3m
Lif: 512
Pow: 496
Int: 58
Ski: 741
Spd: 141
Def: 673

Retired: 5y 4m
Lif: 512
Pow: 496
Int: 63
Ski: 744
Spd: 148
Def: 677
Total purse: 59900

Total Money: 53590 (started with 5000)

Now for monster #2: the more complicated of the pair. 

Now we have your Arrowhead out. This raising is going to be much more leaning
toward 'The Breeder', since now we're focusing specifically on the stats which
will make it a good parent. Hopefully the first monster should have made
enough money for you to be able to raise this one more carefully and with more
intensity. Especially since here, the raising will be more difficult than it
is with the Zuum. Now, the numbers you'll have to set out to balance with
aren't quite as natural as they are for the Zuum. However, it's not an
impossibility, as you'll soon see.

Starting Stats:
Lif: 120
Pow: 80
Int: 70
Ski: 30
Spd: 40
Def: 170

As with the Zuum, all monsters gotten from the market have the same stats.

This can go one of two ways. If your Zuum made it high enough to make very
good money in battles, then you can go all the way and feed your Arrowhead
Tablets from day 1. On the other hand, if he didn't make as much money as you
feel comfortable with, go with fish; Arrowheads automatically like it quite a
bit and will thus gain well in stress reduction. Not as good as Tablets, but
for 400G less, you can't really complain. 

Taking directly from 'The Breeder', the style you should be using on this
monster is Heavy Drill/Light Drill/Heavy Drill/Rest, as long as you have the
good money to be able to handle it. The items are <whatever>/Mint Leaf/Nuts
Oil/Mint Leaf. If, however, you're either strapped for cash or just plain
don't want to spend it, go with Heavy Drill/Light Drill/Light Drill/Rest, and
<whatever>/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf/<whatever>. Just be ready for the occasional time
you'll need to either send him through a battle or to mint leaf and rest if he
gets stressy. 

For trainings, you'll want to make all uses of Light Drill 'Shoot' for the
moment. Skill needs to be the highest number you have and, unlike your Zuum,
it doesn't get multiplied by two. On the other hand, the Heavy Drill you
should limit yourself to for the most part is Leap. Why not Swim, you ask?
Because an Arrowhead's Defense is multiplied by two. And that Defensex2 needs
to still be lower than the Arrowhead's Skill. Why not Pull? Because your Power
needs to be lower than Skill as well. With Leap, you can increase your speed
somewhat, getting it to the appropriate level: above Intelligence but not above

1 year
Lif: 136
Pow: 64
Int: 100
Ski: 64
Spd: 82
Def: 170

Work your Arrowhead like this until it's showing signs of going up in
statgains. Then, like the Zuum, send it on its first errantry. Make certain
that it gets a move, preferably a hit one (both for the Skill in the
errantry and for the damage the attack can cause). 

First Errantry/First growth: 1y 11m
Lif: 142
Pow: 67
Int: 126
Ski: 179
Spd: 130
Def: 166

Unless you're running low on money, your Arrowhead should probably only go in
battles once in a while. Send it to the D-class Official once it's good
enough, and the C-Class official when it's good enough for that. Aside from
those official battles, the only time you should consider doing fights are
when they're a valuable one (if you get invited to IMa vs FIMBA take the
chance) or if you're definitely seeing yourself running out of money while
raising this creature. Otherwise, wait until it gets up to B-class before you
start doing a number of fights with it. 

D-Class: 2y 11m
Lif: 183
Pow: 120
Int: 131
Ski: 327
Spd: 155
Def: 168

C-Class: 3y 8m
Lif: 213
Pow: 208
Int: 139
Ski: 468
Spd: 152
Def: 173

Once the Arrowhead's at B-Class, feel free to give it the chance to do some
extra fights. That little extra money will help raise the baby when it finally
gets created. Don't go too hard on it, though; we're focusing more on stats
than cash with this parent. 

Once your Arrowhead has gone through its second growth spurt, work with it the
same way you did with the Zuum: focus only on raising stats and not on the
battles at all. Here, you probably want to go with Heavy Drill/Light Drill/
Light Drill/Rest. This is because there is no heavy drill that focuses on the
most important ability here: Skill. Direct all your attention toward Skill,
which has to be over twice as high as Defense. Make certain of this! Don't let
your monster's Defense go over twice your Skill, or the combination won't come
out 'great'. Life needs to be lower than the Defensex2 number, and Power needs
to be lower than Life. For example, if the Arrowhead has a Defence of 300, you
need to bring your Skill up over 600, and your Power can be no more than 600.
For this reason, I actually suggest leaving the Arrowhead's Defence pretty well
as-is. Or if you do raise it, raise it only a little bit, and only in line with
your Skill-raises.

Speed and Intelligence again have to be kept minimal, with Speed higher than
Intelligence, though other than that, no need to work in exacting numbers. 

Prime: 4y 6m (yes, really)
Lif: 351
Pow: 310
Int: 148
Ski: 533
Spd: 156
Def: 173

Once your stats are going into the ever-present downhill slide, you'll
probably want to consider sending your monster into a few battles to make
yourself a little more cash. Either that, or you'll want to take some more
errantries and get yourself more moves, probably a good idea since you'll be
wanting your baby to have at least six moves, and the more the parents have,
the more the baby will have a chance at. Either one of these is a perfectly
viable alternative; choose whichever one you prefer. Either way it goes, keep
raising the Arrowhead until its stat-gains are going down into baby-levels as
well. Then bring it out of the ranch and freeze it at Dadge's place.

7y 7m
Lif: 591
Pow: 492
Int: 149
Ski: 998
Spd: 175
Def: 449

No retirement warning, but close to it by stats falloff.

No, you aren't misreading that age. Arrowheads can be extremely long-lived if
well taken care of, and the raising on this one was done with minimal combat
and maximum care!

Now, it's time to see if all that hard work paid off. Let Dadge know that you
want to combine your two monsters. His proclamation about the combination of
the pair should be 'GREAT'! If it is, then awesome! You managed to follow the
steps given to make a 'genetically engineered' Great combo. If it isn't, then
the numbers have been muddled somewhere. Go back through them and do your
multiplication/correcting again:

Zuum: Skillx1.5, Intelligence/2
Arrowhead: Defensex2, Intelligence/2, Speed/2

See if you can find where the error is and if it can be fixed in what time you
have left with your monster's lifespan; lots of drills to bring up the stat
that's throwing them out of whack. If not, then you should still get a fairly
good combo (unless you *really* mucked things up!). If you can, then do so! 

Now, make certain the game is saved before you do this. If you want to go with
whatever you get, then that's certainly up to you, but this direction was for
a specific combination. Therefore, I suggest being prepared to reset if you
get the wrong monster. Go back to Dadge and ask him to combine again. Go for
the CrabSaurian (Zuum/Arrowhead). Try it with either parent on top (hee hee,
on top) to see if one gives you a better tech-carryover or better stats. But
other than that, just do your combination until you get the CrabSaurian. And
if everything went well, you should have some much better stats than either of
the parents could have dreamed of, plus at least six attacks (maybe more!) to
start off with. Sweet!

Lif: 246
Pow: 239
Int: 84
Ski: 378
Spd: 132
Def: 277

Now that you've got your super-monster, we're going to actually go for raising
it. Both parents should have made a considerable amount of money thanks to the
fighting. If not, you may want to put this baby away and raise a moneymaker
monster just to be sure; check out 'The Moneymaker' in raising styles for an
idea on how to do it. Assume that, for this hard-raising style, we'll need
around 50,000-75,000 to make it happen comfortably. One good moneymaker can
handle that easily, so if you don't have enough, then go and get one. It's OK.
I'll wait!

The vast amounts of cash needed is because we're going to be giving this young
creature a full 'Go For S-Class' treatment. This means that he'll be getting
the best food, the best items, and no unnecessary errantries or battles to
force his way through. This style doesn't appear above, but is rather one of
the many great styles that one can use to maximize the monster's lifespan and
stats. Check out Monster Rancher Metropolis for MePersoner's Method if you want
to see the proper numbers breakdown of it. All credit where credit is due!

As I said, your Crabsaurian will be getting the best food. This means Tablets.
Nothing else is worthwhile for the heavy stat-raising here; if you don't have
enough money to properly feed Tablets to your monster, then I highly suggest
making a full moneymaker monster so you can earn enough to do it. 

There are two ways that you can go about this, depending on the amount of
money you have. If you've got a ton of cash, then you can do a rest-free
method: Hard Drill/Light Drill/Hard Drill/Light Drill, with the items needed
being Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf/Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf. It's extremely costly, but this
will bring up your monster's stats incredibly well. It will, however, also
bring down its weight; your CrabSaurian will quickly become skinny with all
the working out and mint leaves. Which means you'll be relying on it to dodge,
rather than taking hits. Maybe not the best idea. However, fortunately, we
won't be getting it into battles at the moment. So for now, focusing on
getting its primary stats up and worrying about weight management later is a
good idea. 

If, however, you either have less in the way of money or want to keep the
monster 'fat' for the extra padding, you can go in this pattern: Hard
Drill/Light Drill/Hard Drill/Rest. The items will be <whatever>/Nuts Oil/Mint
Leaf/<whatever>. That 'whatever' can be replaced by candy quite easily, and
smoked snakes if the sweets are spoiling your monster too much. 

Keep an eye on your Crabsaurian's stats. When they get up to proper
rank-raising levels, send him to those official tournaments and *only* those.
This'll keep him in lifespan, rather than endangering it with excess battles.
Fight your way up the ladder in between raising; just take them as they come
up, and watch your growth as you do so. Even jump ranks if you can wait that
long; every fight saved is another few weeks of lifespan saved. Much like the
others, you'll want to stop fighting and start focusing heavily on stats when
the monster hits its second growth spurt. However, in between babyhood and
prime, there's a little bit of time to get another move or two.

Thanks to your monster's parents having had good movelists, you should end up
with at least six techs, which should keep you from needing to go on any
errantries for quite some time. However, if you actually feel like it, then
the best time to send it is either when the monster is a baby, just having its
stats start raising in order to minimize failures, or when it's just hit that
first growth spurt. Right now, you don't have to focus on any particular
stats, aside from what you feel like is easiest to win fights with (likely
Skill and Power, but you might be one of those who focuses on Defense, for
example). Feel free to send your monster to one or two, but you should try and
hold out until you get to B-Class. At that point, focus on getting yourself
the 'Special' moves. Now that you're able to get them, those moves will be
extremely valuable, since they almost always have a high hit and damage, as
well as the possibility of superior withering or sharpness (albeit not so much
of those on our present monster). Remember, though: errantries are hard on
lifespan. You should keep them to a minimum unless you have any desire to be a

Once again, we've reached that time where the monster has grown to its third
stage, and is getting numbers like nobody's business. Now is where, if you
have even a little extra money, you should turn to the full no-sleep method:
Hard Drill/Light Drill/Hard Drill/Light Drill, with Nuts Oil/Mint Leaf/Nuts
Oil/Mint Leaf. Your monster will go thin, as mentioned above, but the fact of
the matter is that it's easy to fatten them up again once the 'prime' numbers
are dropping. For now, just focus on pumping as much of that stat-gain as you
can out of your monster, focusing on those most important stats (whatever you
think they are, whether you prefer a high-Defence monster, or a basic
Power-Skill thumper) and preparing for the next combats. Don't do errantries,
don't do expeditions with this monster, don't even do fights. Don't do
*anything* until it's coming down out of Prime and the numbers are dropping

Once you've gotten just out of prime, if you want to make the monster fatter,
go into this rhythm: Hard Drill/Light Drill/Hard Drill/Rest; Candy/Mint Leaf/
Nuts Oil/Candy. Otherwise, just keep up with the heavy work; your monster
will be plenty skinny by the end of it. Then, it's time to make your advances
on S-Class. Beware: the monsters here are quite powerful! Assume an average of
500 in all your stats to be able to take them on easily! 

F22) THE BIG 4
If everything's gone well, you should now have a monster who's ready to handle
the Big 4. Now you might want to do a little more stat-raising to try and take
them on or, if you think that you can handle them without it, try the first
one to come up. If you do it, then continue on. Or, if your monster is going
downhill, start taking him to Dadge's Lab, freezing him, and letting him out
on the day before the invitations. Get invited, put him away a little, take
him out for the fight. Do this until you've beaten all four of the battles and
congratulations! You've finished off the Big 4!

Then... well, that's a step for you to see. But let's just say 'Things aren't
quite over yet'...

You'll notice that nowhere in the step-by-step do I bring up stuff like
getting your barn upgraded, going on expeditions, unlocking specific monsters,
or anything like that. You may ask, 'Does that mean they won't happen if I
follow this guide?' The answer is... possibly, possibly not. 

Many of the unlocking, upgrades, and the like have to do with your level as a
trainer, but also other variables: your monster's Life and popularity for the
expeditions, your own rank for unlocking, money level for getting barn
upgrades, the time of the year... plain and simple, if they didn't really come
into the raising style, I didn't bring them up, because there's no real way to
tell if you'll have exactly the same numbers as are needed for these things to

So, if Rovest comes pottering along and asks for your Zuum to go on an
expedition, or your raising of the Crabsaurian is interrupted by the IMa vs
FIMBA battle, don't be afraid to take those chances. After all, this
walkthrough isn't the be-all and end-all. It's just a push to let you have an
idea of how this stuff works. For the rest, you're going to have to experience
for yourself.

If you feel that you have anything to add to this FAQ, then by all means send
me information on it. Let me know if you find information that is incorrect,
missing, misleading, or otherwise needs to be pointed out; I'll be more than
happy to give you credit for work done. Also if you think that I should get
some kudos for the work (those are always nice, you know!) then feel free to
write as well. I always love mail! Probably because I am insane! But I do.

- Version 1.0 
- First version of the FAQ. 

- Version 1.1
- Very minor addition in the 'Tech Chains' area.
- Auntie's name was confirmed as 'Verde'.

- Version 2.0
- Minor formatting changes in the battle chart
- Email change!

- Version 2.1
- Yikes! Oversight! Added a rating to Dadge's list and a bit of a caveat
- IMs added for those who wish to contact me directly

- Version 2.5
- Added chapter for 'stats' by request

- Version 2.6
- Correction in cost for 'Pure Gold'

- Version 2.7
- Several item prices added

- Version 3.0 (LOTS of new stuff in this version!)
- Zuum and Arrowhead raised in the style given in 'walkthrough' to give an
  example of how the creature could turn out. Crabsaurian to be added later
- Slight fine-tuning of a raising style after re-testing
- A few spelling and formatting corrections
- Corrected the 'points gained' for rest with Fire Stone/Chunk Of Ice
- Detail added to 'Disk Chips' section
- List of monsters gained through hatching a worm added
- Item details from Pocketstation added
- Added detail to the 'Enemy Monsters', mentioning how to obtain White Mocchi
- Confirmed that Loyalty and Fame do not seem to have any influence on digging
  up the spring
- Twitter added and ICQ removed, as I haven't had it for a long while
- Learned 'fanny' means something way different in Britain! Word was politely
  changed. Wish someone had pointed it out sooner! :)

-- More detailed item lists for the various expeditions. After all, different
   things are found in different locations. If you want to submit a list for
   what you find and where, please do. 
-- The prices on items that haven't been finished
-- Raising monsters in the other styles given in my 'raising styles'
   list to show a general numbers breakdown year by year

Monster Rancher Metropolis (http://monsterrancher.com/) and its community of
researchers and players: The premier website for all things Monster Rancher. A
lot of the information on this walkthrough came directly from there (with
permission!). For more detailed, in-depth information about the game,
including some of the inner workings of how the monsters are read from CD and
the statistical numbers of various items, go here and take a wander through. 

Lisa Shock: For allowing me to use some of the information found at the above
website to be able to fill out various details above. Your work in making the
website what it is is highly appreciated.

DarkZx ^Chang^: For letting me know that Bajarl's Straight takes 30x Jab.

Dragon Summoner Wong: For reminding me that Auntie's name is 'Verde'.

Corey Shenefield: For pointing out a rather large oversight in my 'Dadge
Ratings': the rating for 'No stats match'. Also, a reminder that even if
monsters are a perfect match, he rates them as 'No stats match' if they're
identical type. Thanks for the quick eye!

Shaun Burnicle: For the suggestion to add detail on what the stats do. Your
wish is my command!

Xavier: For a correction on the price of 'pure gold', as well as several other
prices for items on my list! It's been a big help.

MysticSamuraiX: For bringing me the descriptions and costs of the various items
that are gathered from the Pocketstation. Also for a correction on the color of
one of the DNA Capsules (green, rather than gold).

Patrick Chu: For letting me know Shiny Stone and Meteorite sale prices.

Liddo-kun (shivanreefs@msn.com): For confirming the numbers on Ray (and

Beenz91: For corrections on the Joker's cloak color (because apparently I am 
colorblind and can't tell purple from black!) and Kawrea's Joker mask being in
an expedition; not an errantry.

Frost Dragon: For correcting a silly typo: Binto is the builder. Not Bento.

Anthony Kline and Sydney Wynn: For helping confirm there is no Fame or Loyalty
requirement for getting Undine. 

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