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FAQ by JCulbert

Version: 1.8 | Updated: 11/26/2000

	   	  GRAN TURISMO 2 COMPENDIUM (Sony Playstation)

version 1.8
by John Culbert <tigeraid@fighters.net>
October 2000

*The Following work is dedicated to Canadian CART racecar driver Greg Moore, who
was killed in a crash at Fontana California during the final race of the 1999
season, on October 31st.  From a fellow Canadian racecar driver, rest in peace Greg,
you will be missed.  Please indulge me and read the end of the Compendium for my
thoughts on this tragedy.*

This FAQ and all my others can be accessed at the following sites:


Wanna talk? You can contact me on IRC (Internet Relay Chat) as tigeraid, on
channels #cars, #fighters.net, #vfhome, #tekken and #capcom.



MONOSPACE, DAMMIT! :) If the dots above line up with the numbers above them,
then you can read this document with ease. If they aren't lined up, the margins
will be all screwy and generally make this a bitch to read. It was created using
Editpad with "Break Lines" on, and as such it is best viewed by this.


I'm getting sick of the bullshit going around with others stealing FAQ
writer's hard work without permission or credit. A certain unmentionable
gaming mag stole SFA2 stuff from me a while ago (*ahem*EGM*cough*hack), and on-
line people who don't want to put effort into doing this stuff also
copied from me (this means you, Davis!!) So here it is:

All work and information contained within this document Copyright 2000
John Culbert <tigeraid@fighters.net> unless otherwise stated.

 This FAQ is for private and personal use only.  It can only be
 reproduced electronically, and if placed on a web page or site, may be
 altered as long as this disclaimer and the above copyright notice
 appears in full. Any information used from this document, quoted or no,
 should have this author's name somewhere clearly as acknowledgement. Feel
 free to distribute between others, but this FAQ is not to be used for
 profitable/promotional purposes; this includes being used by publishers of
 magazines, guides, books, etc. or being incorporated into magazines, etc.
 in ANY way.
 This document was created by John Culbert <tigeraid@fighters.net>. Give
 credit where it is due.

Gran Turismo and Gran Turismo 2 are trademarks (tm) of Sony Computer
Entertainment of America Inc. (SCEA) 1999-2000, and developed by Polyphony
Digital.  All manufacturers, car names, brands and associated imagery are
trademarks and/or copryright their respective owners.


1.0 - Version Updates
2.0 - Introduction
3.0 - News and Frequently Asked Questions
4.0 - The graphics and Sound
5.0 - New Additions to Gran Turismo Gameplay
6.0 - The Tracks - Track Strategies
7.0 - Car Discussion
      7.1  - Alfa Romeo
      7.2  - Aston Martin
      7.3  - Audi
      7.4  - BMW
      7.5  - Chevrolet
      7.6  - Citroen
      7.7  - Daihatsu
      7.8  - Dodge
      7.9  - Fiat
      7.10 - Ford/Mercury
      7.11 - Honda / Acura
      7.12 - Jaguar
      7.13 - Lancia
      7.14 - Lister
      7.15 - Lotus
      7.16 - Mitsubishi
      7.17 - Mazda
      7.18 - Nissan
      7.19 - Mercedes-Benz
      7.20 - Peugeot
      7.21 - Plymouth
      7.22 - Renault
      7.23 - Mini / MG
      7.24 - RUF
      7.25 - Shelby American
      7.26 - Subaru
      7.27 - Suzuki
      7.28 - Tommy Kaira
      7.29 - Toyota
      7.30 - TVR
      7.31 - Vauxhall / Opel
      7.32 - Vector
      7.33 - Venturi
      7.34 - Volkswagon
8.0  - Car Types
      8.1 - Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive
      8.2 - Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive
      8.3 - Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive
      8.4 - Front Engine, All Wheel Drive
9.0  - Basics of Driving
      9.1 - Automatic Transmission
      9.2 - Manual Transmission
      9.3 - Braking
10.0 - Driving Techniques
      10.1 - "Apexing the Turn" -- how to best navigate a corner
      10.2 - Sliding through corners
      10.3 - Navigating the S-Turn
      10.4 - General Tips Cornering with RWD
      10.5 - General Tips Cornering with AWD
      10.6 - General Tips Cornering with FWD
      10.7 - Cornering with traffic
      10.8 - Drafting
      10.9 - Differences in handling with the Dual Shock
11.0 - Course Strategies
12.0 - Parts
      12.1 - Exhaust
      12.2 - Brakes
      12.3 - Engine
      12.4 - Drivetrain
      12.5 - Turbochargers
      12.6 - Suspensions
      12.7 - Tires
      12.8 - Others
      12.9 - For Professionals
13.0 - Car Setup (Simulation Mode)
14.0 - Simulation Mode Races/Cups
15.0 - Arcade Mode Tips and Cars
16.0 - Around the Web--additions from the readers
18.0 - Resources, Places to look on the web for GT2 Info
19.0 - Credits/Wrap up


0.5 - beta version of the Compendium, previewing Gran Turismo 2

0.7 - still in beta.  Changed info on GT2 being 2 discs (oops), added more
cars to the car list, finished the (hopefully) confirmed tracks and courses
list, and some more info on each manufacturer.  Also added more resources.

0.8 - Added list of confirmed artists for the Gran Turismo 2 soundtrack.  Also
some more info on Lister, and some various news updates.

0.9 - added buncha info on some of the manufacturers, as well as little News

0.99 - KICK ASS CONFIRMED LIST OF CARS UPDATED!  Sony Entertainment released
another list of confirmed cars, tons more, including some real suprises--check
it out in section 7.0!!!!

0.9999 - info (from all the sources I could possibly find) to try and determine
if the game has been delayed past december 7th... see section 2.0 below.

0.9999b - welp december 7/8 is gone and no GT2... but Sony made another
statement, and things may be looking up... see section 2.0.

1.0 - The game is out as of December 16-18 in North America!! This update will
begin the additions of actual strategy to this Compendium.  Similar to my Gran
Turismo Compendium, the Gran Turismo 2 Compendium will now feature the basics of
driving, course strategies, prizes for each class, and any other information
recieved as I progress in the game.  Feel free to send me any information you
have found and I will consider posting it in this document.

1.2 - Confirmed Drag Racing has been removed from Gran Turismo 2 :(....
apparently it ended up being unfinished due to time constraints (if you can believe
that crap), and that explains the presence of the Nissan drag cars and the Intrepid
Pro Stock... oh well.  On a lighter note, little odds and ends, typos and mistakes have
been fixed, and GAMESHARK CODES HAVE BEEN ADDED.  See section 16.0 for some info on
how you can contribute your info to this Compendium!

1.4 - some general typos and mistakes fixed (oops), completed prize car
list and added some submissions to section 16.0... let's keep 'em coming people!

1.6 - Revised Prize Car list and Arcade Mode Cars list, updated section 16.0
with reader submissions, and an example car review of my own.  Also added Replay
Views trick in section 3.0 and Garage Organization Trick in section 14.0.

1.7 - fixed silly mistake with Replay View trick, updated sponsor list and Prize
Car List, and added some more GameShark codes.  Also added some more car
reviews and explained LSD, Traction and Yaw Control in section 13.0.

1.8 - added Course Strategies (11.0) and more car reviews in section 16.0.  The
"Car Rankings" list has been dropped from the Compendium, because I feel it's far
too difficult to choose a top 5 or even a top 10 of the best FF, FR, MR, etc... car,
as too many of the top cars in each class are so equal.  We'll keep it to the car
reviews in 16.0 this time...

 			    2.0 INTRODUCTION

Well, die-hard GT fans like myself already know that Gran Turismo 2 is the
greatest racing game of all time.  While retaining essentially the same game
engine in terms of car physics and control, Sony has added to what we thought
was close to a perfect game, to come up with GT2.  It plays the same
in terms of control, but has now been improved ten-fold.  Gran Turismo 2 now
offers nearly 600 cars from practically every manufacturer on the planet (and
those that aren't here are missing for licencing reasons, which I'll discuss
later), as well as special edition, race-spec, and rally cars.  And THANKFULLY
for us ol' domestic tuners who played the '67 427 Corvette and yearn for more,
there are now many classic muscle and sports cars included.  Not to mention a
plethora of hidden cars that are difficult to aquire, but certainly worth
the effort.

There's also the addition of several new tracks and courses, included an uphill
climb at the legendary Pikes Peak, some dirt rally courses, and including our
old favorite tracks from the original GT for over 20 tracks (that's almost 50
including the reverse tracks) in total to choose from.

And there's much more... needless to say I, along with every other GT fan, have
awaited this game with drooling mouths.  Read on racefans, this Compendium will
fill you in on all the new goodies so far known about this highly anticipated
game as well as detailed racing strategies.



There are two very prominent types of cars missing in Gran Turismo 2, and one
that's still kind of sketchy.  In regards to Porsche and Ferrari, Electronic
Arts as exclusive rights on both and therefore they cannot be featured in GT2...
Note however that EA does not reserve the rights to RUF, a high performance
PORSCHE manufacturer--so Sony managed to find a back door, and RUF Porsches only
are featured in Gran Turismo 2 ;).  Ferrari appears to be a no go however.

The Third refers to the Chevrolet C5 Corvette.  The C5 stands for 5th generation
Corvette, built from 1997-2000 and featuring the awesome 345 horse (advertised,
it's actually higher), all-aluminum LS1 5.7 L (346 cubic inch) V8.  While it's
not listed on the official cars list for GT2, reports are that it may still be
in the game.  Apparently, EA also owns the rights to the C5 Corvette, however
others have mentioned seeing it in preliminary videos for Gran Turismo 2...
From all accounts, it appears it indeed did not make the cut... maybe next time :/.

Oh and BTW, The Mercedes CLK GTR has been removed due to licencing
conflicts, again with EA... the original beta screen shots showed it was in the
game, but has apparently been removed.  Mind you, gameshark hackers have found it
buried in the code...

I suppose I should mention that Lamborghini is not in the game for similar
licencing reasons.


The new modes of racing in GT2 are, among others: Rally, Hill Climb, GT, and
sportscar... they're all pretty self-explanitory.

Note: Sony made an official statement saying Drag Racing Mode was not
completed and thus it's not in the game, despite the drag racing models.

Another early rumor was that SUVs would be included in the game.  The rumor has
been proved factual, with the existance of the Subaru Forester, Daihatsu Foroza
and several others.

REPLAY VIEWS TRICK: to access the special views available during replays, press
the Circle button (Hand Brake), then press Square (Brake) to cycle through the
extra views.  They include a copter cam from directly overhead, and cameras from
all four corners of the car, facing rear and forward.  You can also press
throttle (X) to toggle the tach/readings and press again to get a set of
gauges showing brake and throttle applied.  Cool stuff.


Gran Turismo 2 is TWO discs, arcade and simulation.  As well, the NegCon and the various
types of Steering Wheel periphirals are compatable, along with the usual digital and analog
Playstation controllers.


Similar to GT1, but with far more, GT2 features several automotive sponsors on
the cars and on the courses.  Here is a confirmed list:

Advan		Alitalia		Alpine		Autobacs
BBS		BP			Brembo		Bridgestone
Castrol		Cibie			Denso		Dunlop
elf		Enkei			Esso		Exxon
Falken		Fet			Gulf		Havoline
Kenwood		Magnetti		Marelli		Masterfit
Michelin	Mobile			MOMO		Motul
Movistar	Oz			Pennzoil	Pirelli
Potenza		Puma			Quaker State	Rays
Red Line Racing	Red Line Synthetic	Speedline	Texaco
Total		Toyo Tires		Trampio		Valeo
Vodafone	Yokohama		Bosch


Many popular in-house and aftermarket tuning companies are now featured in Gran
Turismo 2.  Here is the confirmed list:

AMG		Audi Sport
Fiat Auto	Corse
Ford Racing	HKS
Lister Sport	Lotus
Mazda Speed	Mine's
Mugen		Nismo
Ralliart	Spoon
STi		Tom's
TRD		TVR Racing
TWR Racing

The Confirmed Modified models in the game are listed under Car List and
Discussions. (eg. Mugen under Honda/Acura)

			   4.0 THE GRAPHICS

While Gran Turismo completely blew us away with its smooth graphics and
attention to detail, it really was only using 75% of the Playstation's hardware
capability.  Gran Turismo 2, on the other hand is using basically 100% of the
Sony platform's abilities, and you can see the even more amazing detail and
smoothness in the game, apparent through the screen shots and videos currently
available on line (see resources for locations).

Attention to detail certainly was paramount this time around.  For example, in
Gran Turismo the wheels on the car were basically a flat surface meeting with
the sidewall of the tire.  In Gran Turismo 2, the wheels look quite realistic
and have the 3d appearance that shows their depth inward towards the hub.  Other
details such as badging and logos on the car are now easily made out from all
camera angles and during the replays.  The cars in the game also have a
smoother, more refined look to them, and are also a little more balanced in
terms of scaling, meaning they look more true to their real life counterparts in
the way of size.  Certainly pure eye candy.

The sound, needless to say, is pure heaven.  Polyphony took the time to
carefully record the exhaust notes of every single car in the game from the real
thing, at each stage of acceleration, deceleration, revving, etc etc...  Nothing
like the sound of a Chevrolet smallblock in the 1969 Camaro Z28 in full
song, to the tune of 6000 RPM ^_^.


The real major jump in gameplay is in the form of modifying your ride, either
for performance or asthetics.  For example, a new feature allows you to adjust
the Limited Slip Differential...  See section 12.0.

			       6.0 THE TRACKS

One of the more intriguing features now in GT2 is the variety of tracks and
courses available.  There are now 64 tracks available including the rally
courses, much improved over the original.  The tracks include uphill tracks
such as Pike's Peak, rally courses like Tahiti, some new street and road
courses, legendary Grand Prix circuits like Laguna Seca, plus the original
tracks from GT1.

Tahiti Road
Midfield Raceway
High Speed Ring
Super Speedway
Seattle Short Course
Rome Short Course
Red Rock Valley Speedway
Seattle Circuit
Rome Circuit
Laguna Seca Raceway
Apricot Hill Raceway
Motorsports Land
Trial Mountain Circuit
Clubman Stage Route 5
Grand Valley East
Grand Valley Speedway
Special Stage Route 5
Autumn Ring
Test Course
Deep Forest Raceway
Autumn Ring Mini

Rally Courses:

Tahiti Dirt Road Route 3
Smokey Mountain South
Green Forest Roadway
Smokey Mountain North
Tahiti Maze
Pikes Peak Hill Climb
Tahiti Dirt Route 3 Reverse
Smokey Mountain North Reverse
Pikes Peak Downhill



The 155 Touring Car is.... certainly interesting.  A decent handler, it also
revs around 14,000 RPM...

1998 145 2.0 Cloverleaf
1998 156 2.0 TS 16V
1998 156 2.5 V6 24V
1998 166 2.0 TS 16V
1998 166 2.5 V6 24V
1998 166 3.0 V6 24V
1998 GTV 2.0 TS 16V
1998 GTV 3.0 V6 24V
1998 Spider 2.0 TS
1998 155 2.0 TS 16V
1995 155 Touring Car


While the DB7 in GT1 was really not that impressive, it reappears again in
GT2... the major addition here is in the form of the Aston Martin Vantage, an
incredible concept car that can certainly compete with the Jaguars and such.
The DB6, needless to say, is interesting to drive ;)...

DB7 Volante
DB7 Coupe

7.3 AUDI

One that I'm enjoying myself, with the ability to modify these great
handling AWD Euro cars... the Quattro models in particular.  The new S4
sleeper is also included, and can be tuned to 600+ horsepower with the
turbo ;).

A3 1.8 T Sport
A4 Avant 2.8 Quattro

7.4 BMW

Both the 5 and 3 series are available here, but unfortunately for you bimmer
guys, the M cars didn't make it for some reason :/... (M5 was in Need For
Speed 4... another EA licencing conflict?)

323ci Coupe (E46)
323 Coupe (E36)
323ti Compact (E36)
328ci Coupe (E46)
328i Sedan (E46)
528i Sedan
740i Sedan
840ci Sports


Thankfully they have expanded the Chevrolets in this game, featuring some
classic muscle along with the current performance cars.  While I'm happy the
extra Camaros and Vettes are here, ESPECIALLY the spectacular 69 Z28 with the
high-revving 302 smallblock, it's rather unfortunate that other new and old
cars weren't included, like the 78-87 Monte Carlos, old Chevelles and Novas,

But then AGAIN, the 195 mph ZR-1 with its all aluminum 32 valve DOHC 5.7 L V8
pushing 410 horsepower is also in, so maybe that'll satisfy me ;).

1997 Camaro Z28 Coupe LT1
1997 Camaro SS LT1
1996 Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary LT1
1969 Camaro Z28
1996 Corvette Coupe LT4
1996 Corvette Grand Sport LT4
1967 Corvette Stingray 427
1969 Corvette Stingray 427 (darn, it's "only" the L88, not the ZL-1 ;)
1982 Corvette Stingray


Welp... it's... a Citroen... :)  They offer a small selection of front wheel
drive, low horsepower cars, as well as a nice rally car.  The Citroen Xsara
was also featured in Ronin, one of the ultimate car chase movies ever.

Saxo 1.6I VTS
Saxo F2 Kit Car
Xantia 3.0I V6
Xsara 1.8I 16V
Xsara Rallier


A bunch of small, low horsepower cars, but certainly good bases for mild
buildups.  The Midget is... interesting...

1997 Mira,TX(2WD)
1997 Mira,TX(AWD)
1998 Mira TR(AWD)
1990 Mira,TR-XX
1990 Move,SR-XX(2WD)
1997 Move,SR-XX(AWD)
Move, SR-XX
1998 Move Custom, AeroDown Custom
1995 Move,CX
1997 Opti,Club Sports(2WD)
1997 Opti,Club Sports(AWD)
1998 Opti, AeroDown Beex?AWD?
1998 Storia,CX(2WD)
1998 Storia,CX(AWD)
1998 Storia,X4
1998 Terioskid, Aerodown
Midget II, D-type


Thankfully they've also expanded Dodge to not only include great classics like
the Charger and Challenger, but also some of the more common late model cars
like the Neon and the Avenger.  RWD modified versions of the Avenger are quite
popular in high classes of drag racing, and while we'll have to stick with the
FWD formula in GT2, it's still capable of decent performance.  When the
Intrepid is Race modified, it becomes an NHRA Pro Stock dragster! ... just too
bad it can only be modded to a cruddy 550 hp instead of the ~2000 in a
Pro Stock :/.

Avenger ES
Neon ACR
Neon R/T
Stratus ES
Intrepid ES
Viper GTS
Viper GTS-R
1998 Viper GTS-R LM
Viper RT/10
1971 Charger (Why not a '69 R/T?)
Concept Car (Copperhead)

7.9  FIAT

Makes a mean rally car...

1998 500 Sporting
1975 500R
600 (Seicento)
Coupe 2.0 20V Turbo
Punto GT

7.10 FORD

While I (and most other car enthusiasts) find the new Mustang kinda ugly, and
in stock form is still not near the performer as its LS1 competition
from Chevy and Pontiac, it's good to see it in GT2, because there's a very large
number of Mustang fans who modify these pony cars for handling and speed... I'll
be interested to see what all can be done to it.  I'm also happy to see the new
Cougar in here, IMO the only stylish car currently made by Ford.  It's also one
of the best handling FWD cars on the planet, albeit an underpowered one...
Oh and of course, the GT-40, an absolutely amazing GT racing car from the 60s is also in ;).

Note: by the way, race modding the 1999 Taurus SHO will get you a certain
Valvoline-sponsored #6 Winston Cup Ford Taurus ;).  Then again, like the
Intrepid Pro Stock, it's looks only... it can only be modded to a pitiful
300+ hp, and it's still damn FWD... a total joke, unfortunate when it COULD
have been a RWD car with a Naturally Aspirated, 358 cid smallblock V8 making
over 750 hp ;).  Oh, and in the "Fixed" SimMode Disc you swap from Sony, Mark Martin's
paint scheme is not available, it's some generic Ford arrangement... bummer

1998 Cougar 2.5i 24V
1967 Cougar XR-7
Escort 1.8 Gti
Escort RS200 Rally Car
1999 Focus Rally
Focus Ghia2.0
Focus Zetec 1.8
Contour Ghia X
Mondeo GhiaX
Mondeo Touring Car
Puma 1.7i DOHC
1998 Mustang GT
1999 Mustang GT
1998 Mustang SVT Cobra
1999 Mustang SVT Cobra
1999 Mustang Saleen SR Widebody
1999 Taurus SHO
1967 GT-40
1967 LM Gulf GT-40 (Race Version)
GT90 Concept Car


Large variety of cars as usual, now including the new S2000 roadster, and some
gay cars like the Beat and Life.  Lotsa variety with the NSX, although race mods
are not plentiful for the Acuras, which certainly sucks.   BTW, Acura is in South
City with the American manufacturers.

NSX '90,
NSX '92,Type R
1997 NSX
1997 NSX, Type S
1997 NSX, Type S Zero
1995 Integra, SiR-G
1995 Integra,Type R
1998 Integra Sir-G
1998 Integra Type R
1995 NSX-R, GT2 LM
1999 Mobil 1 NSX, JGTC
1999 Raybryg NSX, JGTC
1999 Takata NSX, JGTC
1999 Castrol Mugen NSX, JGTC

1991 Prelude Si
1991 Prelude Si VTEC
1996 Prelude SiR
1998 Prelude SiR
1998 Prelude SiR S spec
1996 Prelude Type-S
1996 EK Civic,Ferio Si II
1995 EK Civic,SiR-II
1998 EK Civic,Type R
1993 EG Civic,Si-R II
1993 EG Civic,Ferio Si-R
1998 EK Civic,Ferio Si
1998 EK Civic,SiR
1992 CR-X Del-Sol,VXi
1992 Del-Sol,SiR
1995 Del-Sol,VGi
1995 Del-Sol, SiR
CR-X EF-8,Si-R
1996 Accord,Sedan SiR
1996 Accord,Touring Wagon SiR
1997 Accord,SiR-T
1997 Accord,Wagon 2300VTL AWD
1998 Accord,SiR-T
1998 Accord,Wagon SiR
1998 Z, Turbo
1998 Logo,TS
1997 Life,T type
1998 Life,T type
1991 Beat,Normal
1992 Beat,verF
1994 Beat,verZ
1999 S2000


Civic, Type-R
Integra, Type-R
Prelude, Type-S
Accord, SIR-T
Accord Wagon
CR-X delsol
Castrol Mugen Accord
Castrol Mugen NSX


Integra, Type-R
Civic, Type-R


Jaguar's now a part of the Ford family, but still produces some of the most
spectacular sports cars on the planet... just a little more reliable and better
crafted now ;).

XJ Sport 3.2
XJR Vehicle
XK8 Coupe
XKR Coupe
XJ220 (GT Racer)
XJR15 (Racer)


Certain to dominate the Rally courses, Lancia's became popular in video games
thanks to Sega Rally and Rally Cross.

Delta HF Integrale
Delta HF Integrale Evoluzione
Delta HF Integrale Rally Car
Delta HF Integrale collezione
1985 Delta S4
Stratos (can you say RALLY!?! :)
Y 1.2 16V


Only two cars in GT2 (do they even make anything other than the Storm in
Real Life?).  The Storm is, however, a very impressive car that will likely
compete on the high side of factory races in the game.  The Storm V12 features a
7.0 Litre V-12 engine producing 592 horsepower, easily capable of speeds over
200 mph, this should be in the same league of competition as the Viper GTS-R,
Nissan R390, etc etc... just too bad it's so goddamn ugly :P.

Storm V12
Storm GT

7.15 LOTUS

Built as some of the lightest, best handling cars on the planet.  The older
Elan's and the classic Europa are lots of nostalgiac fun.  And, as in real life,
the Elises possess almost euphoric handling.

1964 Elan S2
1974 Elan S4 Sprint
1990 Elan S2
Elise 190
Elise 135
Elise GT1
Motorsport Elise
Esprit Sport 350 (YES!)
Esprit V8 SE
Esprit V8 GT
Esprit GT1


Including the new Legnum, a wide variety of cars throughout.  The GTO uses
its american name, the 3000gt, in Gran Turismo 2 now.

1992 3000GT (GTO)
1995 3000GT (GTO),Twin Turbo
1992 3000GT (GTO),SR
1992 3000GT (GTO),Twin Turbo
1995 3000GT (GTO),MR
1995 3000GT (GTO),SR
3000GT (GTO),twinturbo
1999 3000GT (GTO),Twin Turbo
1996 Galant,VR-G Touring
1996 Galant,VR-4
1998 Galant,VR-G
1998 Galant,VR-4
1998 Galant,Super VR4
1997 Eclipse,GT
1994 FTO,GR
1994 FTO,GPX
1997 FTO,GR
1997 FTO,GPX
1997 FTO,GP Version R
1994 Lancer,Evolution
1995 Lancer,Evolution III GSR
1996 Lancer,Evolution IV GSR
1998 Lancer,Evolution V GSR
1998 Lancer,Evolution V RS
1999 Lancer,Evolution VI GSR
1999 Lancer,Evolution VI RS
1998 Lancer,Evolution VI Rally Car
1996 Mirage,ASTI RX
1992 Mirage,Cyborg R
1997 Mirage,ASTI RZ
1998 Mirage,ASTI RX-R
1997 Mirage,Cyborg-ZR
1997 Legnum,ST
1997 Legnum,VR-4 type-S
1998 Legnum,ST
1998 Legnum,VR-4 type-S
1998 Legnum,Super VR4
1997 Pajaro Mini,VR-II
1998 Pajero Mini,Sport
1990 Minica,Dangan ZZ
1998 Minica,Pj
Teivon Torampio FTO, JGTC 1999


Lancer, Evolution V

7.17 MAZDA

Again, wide variety of cars, and thankfully includes the 97 RX-7 models and the
kickass modified 99 RX-7!  Unfortunately, the Miata when modded still isn't
quite powerful enough... but still a hoot to drive.

Eunos Cosmo,13B TYPE-S CCS
Eunos Cosmo,20B TYPE-E CCS
1989 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),Normal
1990 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),V-Special
1992 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),R-Special
1993 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),Normal
1993 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),V-Special
1993 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),R-Special
Lantis,Coupe 2000 Type-R
1991 FD Enfini RX-7,Type R
1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Type RZ
1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Type RB
1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Touring X
1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,GT-X
1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,Enfini III
1997 Demio,GL-X
1997 Demio,GL
1997 Demio,LX G Package
1998 Demio,GL-X Special
1999 Demo,GL-X
1997 RX-7,Type RS
1997 RX-7,Type RZ
1997 RX-7,Type RB
1997 RX-7,RS-R
1998 RX-7,Type RS
1998 RX-7,Type R
1998 RX-7,Type RB
Roadster,1.8 RS
Roadster,1.8 VS
Roadster,1.6 S Package
1983 Savanna RX-7 GT-Turbo (SA22C),
1989 Familia,Interplay 4-door Sedan
1992 Familia (BG),GT-R
1992 Familia (BG),GT-X
1999 Familia,S-Wagon Sport 20
1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,Cabriolet
1991 AZ-1,Normal
1999 RE Amemiya Matsumoto-Kiyoshi RX-7, JGTC


Now includes the new Silvia models, as well as the classic 240Z car (YES!)... I
can't wait to modify one of these... just too bad you won't be able to do the
best mod for a 280z... an EFI smallblock chevy ;).

1994 300ZX, 2by2 Version S
1994 300ZX, 2by2 Version S Twin Turbo
1994 300ZX, 2seater Version S
1994 300ZX, 2seater Version S Twin Turbo
1971 Fairlady 240Z, HS30(240ZG)
1998 300ZX, Version R 2by2
1998 300ZX, Version R 2by2 Twin Turbo
1998 300ZX, Version S 2seater
1998 300ZX, Version S 2seater Twin Turbo
1971 Skyline, GT-R(KPGC10)
1984 Skyline, RS-X Turbo Intercooler(DR30)
1987 Skyline, GTS-R(R31)
1997 Skyline, (4door), GT-R Autech Version 40th Anniversary(R33)
1989 Skyline, GT-R(R32)
1991 Skyline, GT-R(R32)
1993 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R32)
1994 Skyline, GT-R Vspec II(R32)
1990 Skyline, GT-R Nismo(R32)
1991 Skyline, GTS-t Type M(R32)
1991 Skyline, GTS25 Type S(R32)
1991 Skyline, GTS4(R32)
1996 Skyline, GTS25t Type M(R33)
1995 Skyline, GT-R(R33)
1995 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R33)
1997 Skyline, GT-R(R33)
1997 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R33)
1998 Skyline, 25GT TURBO(R34)
1999 Skyline, GT-R(R34)
1999 Skyline, GT-R V-spec(R34)
Skyline (DR30),RS-X TURBO
Skyline (R31),GTS-R
1996 S14 Silvia,Q's
1996 S14 Silvia,K's
1995 S14 Silvia,Q's
1995 S14 Silvia,K's
1991 S13 Silvia,Q's 2000cc
1991 S13 Silvia,K's 2000cc
1988 S13 Silvia,Q's 1800cc
1988 S13 Silvia,K's 1800cc
S15 Silvia,Spec R
S15 Silvia,Spec R Aero
S15 Silvia,Spec S
S15 Silvia,Spec S Aero
S14 Silvia,K's Aero SE Sports Package
1990 Primera,2.0Te
1995 Primera,2.0Te
1998 Primera,2.0Te-V
1998 Primera,Wagon 2.0G-V
1995 180SX,Type X
180SX ,Type X
180SX ,Type S
1991 Pulsar,GTI-R
1997 StageA, RS FOUR V
1997 StageA,260 RS Autech Version
StageA,260 RS Autech Version
Pulsar Serier,VZ-R(N1 Version)
Pulsar Serier,VZ-R
1997 R390 GT1, Race Car
1997 R390 GT1, Road Car
1998 R390 GT1, Race Car
1998 R390 GT1, Road Car
1998 Sunny,VZ-R
1998 March,SuperTurbo
1997 March,G#
1998 Cube,X
Nismo 400R
Nismo GT-R LM, (Normal R33)
Nismo GT-R LM, (Race R33)
Nismo GT-R LM, (Race R34)
1997 Zexel Skyline, JGTC
1997 Kure R33, JGTC
1997 300ZX-GTS, JGTC
1999 Nismo Penzzoil GT-R, JGTC
1999 Arta Zexel Skyline, JGTC
1999 Calsonic Skyline, JGTC
1999 Unisia Secs Skyline, JGTC
1999 Zanavi Arta Silvia, JGTC
1999 Daisin Silvia, JGTC
Prince, Skyline 280, Type MR


180SX Drag Racer
R33 Drag GT-R


Skyline (R32.5), GT-R
Skyline (R33), GT-R
Skyline (R34), GT-R

Nismo (specific):

GT-R, Autech Version Tuned by Nismo
Stagea, 260RS Tuned by Nismo
Nismo 270R
Nismo 400R


Big GT class cars like the CLK GTR are available, as well as the kickass little
spitfires like the SLK 230.
The CLK GTR was removed at the last moment due to licencing conflicts with

A160 Avantgarde
CLK 200 Sports
CLK 320 Sports
SLK 230 Kompressor


Not much to say here... has their own specific Rally Cars though.

106 1.6 Rallye
106 1.6 S16
206 Gti
306 Gti-6 2.0 (S16)
206 Rally Car
306 S16
306 Rally Car
406 3.0 V6 Coupe
406 Sedan
406 Touring


Lotsa kickass classic musclecars including the ever-popular 'Cuda (minus the
426 Hemi for some ungodly reason), and the boxy sleeper Plymouth Belvedere
GTX... mmmmm... nothing more fun than 2-player Trial Mountain with equal
GTX's on Drift Mode ;).

Pronto Spyder
1967 Belvedere GTX
1971 Road Runner ("Muscle Car" at the dealership)
Road Runner Superbird
1970 'Cuda


Prominent Euro manufacturer makes some kickass cars (despite not being very
powerful), one even featured in the movie Ronin during one of its famous chase

Laguna V6
Laguna Touring
Clio II 16V
Clio Sport V6 24V
Megane 2.0 16V Coupe
1998 Megane Rally Car
Espace F1

7.23 Mini / MG

Mini/MG is owned by the Rover corporation.  I think it's safe to say the
Mini Rally Car is the most overpriced car in the game :P.

Mini 1.3
Mini Cooper 1.3i
Mini Cooper 1275S MK1
Mini Rally Car

7.24 RUF

Wow, is all I can say... we're got the likes of the CTR and CTR2, that
alone is amazing.  Cudos to Sony for finding a back door for Porsches ;).

Turbo R
CTR Racing


Not only is the Series I in the game, but I think we can be satisfied alone with
the 427 Cobra, one of the fastest American production sportscars ever

1967 Shelby Cobra 427 Roadster
1966 Mustang GT350
1968 Mustang GT500KR
Series 1
Shelby Daytona Coupe 427


Much more variety than GT1, including Pleo, Rex and Impreza Rallier edition...
this manufacturer is sure to be highly competitive in the Rally courses, they've
won enough championships in real life :P.  The Impreza 22b, basically a street-legal
version of the WRC Impreza, is a rare used car and is definetely worth waiting for.

1995 Alcyone,SVX Version L
1995 Alcyone,SVX S4
1996 Legacy,Touring Sedan RS
1996 Legacy,Touring Wagon GT-B
1993 Legacy,Touring SPORTS RS
1993 Legac,Touring Wagon GT
Impreza,WRX-STi TypeR
1996 Impreza,Sedan WRX
1996 Impreza,Sedan WRX-STi versionIII
1996 Impreza,Wagon WRX
1996 Impreza,Wagon WRX-STi versionIII
1995 Impreza,Sedan WRX-STi versionII
1995 Impreza,Wagon WRX-STi versionII
1994 Impreza,Sedan WRX
1994 Impreza,Wagon WRX
1997 Impreza,WRX Wagon
1997 Impreza,WRX
1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV TypeR
1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV Wagon
1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV
1998 Impreza,WRX Wagon
1998 Impreza,WRX
1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V TypeR
1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V Wagon
1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V
1997 Legacy,Touring GT-B Limited
1997 Forester, S-tb
1998 Impreza,22B Sti Version
1998 Legacy B4,RSK
1998 Legacy Wagon,GT-B
1997 Vivio,RX-R
1997 Vivio,RX-RA
1998 Pleo,RS
1998 Pleo,RM
1990 Rex,Supercharger VX
1969 Subaru 360 Young SS
1999 Impreza Rally
1999 Cusco Subaru Impreza, JGTC


Includes their rally championship winning car the Escudo, as well as the
Alto Works...  interesting to see what all can be done to this rather
limited manufacturer, over here in North America there's really not that
much variety on the street.
The Escudo, by the way, is so far considered the fastest car in the game...
and just happens to be a rally car as well ;).

1997 Alto Works,RS/Z
1997 Alto Works,Suzuki Sports Limited
1998 Alto Works,RS-Z
1990 Alto Works,RS/X
1990 Selvo Mode,SR-Four
1995 Cappucino
1997 Wagon R,Turbo RT/S
1997 Wagon R,Column FT
1997 Wagon R,Aero RS
1998 Wagon R,RR
1998 Kei,S
Cultus (Hill Climb car)
Escudo (Hill Climb car)


Tommy Kaira is a high performance builder similar to RUF, in that they construct
their own cars.  They've constructed high(er) performance versions of cars like
the Skyline GT-R, and have a large cult following in Japan with the ZZ Coupe.
The import tuners go nuts for this one.

ZZ-S Coupe
M30 (Tuned R31 Skyline)
M30 (Tuned R32 Skyline)
Tommy kaira R, (Tuned R33 Skyline)
Tommy kaira R, (Tuned R34 Skyline)
M13 (Tuned March)


Expanded even further, now includes the new Altezza and Aristo models, and the
latest Celica.  They also include Lexus now, including the kick-ass GS400.
One of the fastest cars in the game is the Toyota GT-One, and the road car
version can be modded over 900 horsepower.

1996 Starlet,Glanza V
1996 Corolla Levin,BZG
1996 Sprinter Trueno,BZG
Corona Exiv,200GT
1995 Celica,SS-II
1995 Celica,GT-FOUR
1992 Mark II,Tourer V
1992 Mark II,Tourer S
Chaser, Tourer V
Chaser, Tourer S
1995 Soarer, 2.5GT-T
Soarer, 2.5GT-T VVT-i
1996 MR2,G-Limited
1996 MR2,GT-S
1995 Supra,SZ-R
1995 Supra,RZ
1996 Supra,SZ-R
1996 Supra,RZ
MA70 Supra,GT Turbo Limited
JZA70 Supra,TwinTurbo-R
AE86 Corolla Levin,GT-Apex
AE86 Sprinter Trueno,GT-Apex
1991 Aristo 3.0V
1998 Starlet,Glanza V
1998 MR2,G-Limited
1998 MR2,GT-S
1999 Celica, Mechanical Sports Version
1999 Celica, Elegant Sports Version
1997 Prius
Corolla Levin(A111),BZR
Sprinter Trueno(A111),BZR
1986 MR2 (AW11),1600G-Limited Supercharged
1983 Celica XX,2800GT
1988 Celica(ST165),GT-FOUR
1991 Celica (ST185),GT-R
1991 Celica (ST185),GT-FOUR
1991 Celica (ST185),GT-FOUR RC
1997 Corolla WRC
1998 Corolla WRC
Lexus SC400
Lexus GS300
Lexus GS400
Lexus IS200
1999 XYR (Detroit Motorshow Version)
1967 2000GT
1999 MR-S
1997 MR-S (Toyota Motorshow Version)
1998 GT-One, Road Car
1999 GT-One, Road Car
1999 GT-One, Race Car (TS020)
Castrol Supra, GT
1999 Castrol Tom's Supra, JGTC
1999 Denso Sard Supra, JGTC
1999 cdma one Cerumo Supra, JGTC
1999 Weds Sport Celica, JGTC
1999 Momo Corse-EApex MR2, JGTC
1999 BP Apex Kraft Torueno, JGTC


Angel T01
T020, (MR2 Based)
T111, (AE111 LEVIN Based)
Supra, (JZA80 Based)


TRD 2000GT, (MR2 Based)
Chaser, TRD Sports X30

7.30 TVR

More expanded throughout the Cerbera line, and now includes the Chimera...
Fortunately, we also have the new Speed 12 available, the incredibly fast
LM car previously seen in Test Drive 5 and 6.

Cerbera 4.2
Cerbera 4.5
Cerbera Tuscan Speed 6
Chimera 4.2
Chimera 4.5
Chimera 5.0
Griffith 500
Griffith Blackpool B340
Speed 12


One of GM's divisions over in Europe... I still wish Holden was in DAMMIT :/.
The Vectra is a 4 door sedan in either SiR trim or Gsi high performance trim,
with a 24 valve 2.5 V6.  The Tigra is a pissy little version of a Geo Metro with
a 116 valve 1.6 litre 4 cylinder.  The Astra is a 3 door hatchback style car
available in either the Sxi model featuring a 1.6 litre 16 valve 4 cylinder, or
Sri high performance option with the 2.0 litre 16 valve powerplant.
The Tigra Ice Rallyier is arguably the fastest rally car next to the Escudo.

Vectra GSi 2.5 V6
Vectra Touring
1995 Calibra Touring
Tigra 1.6i
1998 Tigra Ice Rally Car
Astra Rally Car
Astra SRi 2.0i 16v
Corsa Sport 1.6i 16v


Truly exotic car manufacturer, some of the fastest cars in the world... Seems
these are the only two models available.  The M12 is an awesome Mid-engine
car, the handling is so tight it's almost silly.

Weigert W8 Twin Turbo


"France's answer to Ferrari".  The Atlantique is a bit of a handful for a RWD
car, but has some great straightaway speed.

Atlantique 300 Bi-Turbo
Atlantique 400GT
1995 Atlantique 600 LM


VW has started gaining a serious performance aftermarket in the late 90s,
so it's a good thing it was included in GT2... unfortunately, we're not
getting the VR6 Jetta....

Golf IV, GTi
Golf IV, 2.3 V5
Golf IV, GTi 1.8T
Golf IV, V6
Lupo, 1.4
Beetle, 2.0 (New Model)
Polo, 1.4 16V
Beetle GT

 			 8.0 CAR TYPES


The classic drivetrain setup, it's not really that "efficient" or "economical"
due to drivetrain losses and interior space (main reason why most manufacturers
use FWD in street cars now), but it delivers the best acceleration and often top
speed, so the majority of performance cars still use this type.  As stated, the
advantage to these cars is raw power, acceleration and speed. However the
downside to these cars is that they tend to get "loose" in the turns; the
back-end of the car wants to slide outward in the corner.  This is due to a
combination of power delivered to the rear wheels, as weight transfer wants to
pull the ass of the car outward.  This is known as oversteering.

Quick reflexes and experience are required to drive these cars, with great skill
in "countersteering" (see section 10.2). However when it comes to accelerating
out of the corner, and blowing them away down the straightaway, these cars are
really fun to drive and the true cars of the masters.  Many racecar drivers (like
the great Mario Andretti) often comment that they prefer classic RWD to
All-wheel drive and especially Front-wheel drive, as it offers the most
overall control for the driver.

Beginner versions of Rear Wheel Drive cars include the Madza Miata.
Advanced cars in this class include the TVR Cerbera, Corvette and the
ever-popular Dodge Viper.


These are cars that have the engine located at their front, under the hood
as you may normally see. However the thing to note is that the power is
delivered to the FRONT WHEELS, not the rear wheels. Most conventional cars
these days run FWD. On the one hand, Front Wheel Drive cars are much more
efficient because they eliminate most of the drive train (eg. drive shaft,
rear differential), thus reducing frictional horsepower. They are also
economical in the minds of manufacturers because the localization of the
drivetrain totally to the front allows them to maximize cabin space.

On the other hand the engines in FWD cars tend to make a lot less power because
they are situated over the front wheels, which puts a strain on suspension and
drivetrain components, as well as the issue of weight.

The disadvantage of the front wheel drives cars is caused by the delivery of
power to the wheels that are steering, as well as the weight of the engine on
them.  FWD cars tend to have excellent turn-in characteristics because the rear-
front weight transfer caused by braking increases traction.  However from that
point on, a FWD car tends to understeer in the corners because of the inertia of
the weight on the front wheels combined with the torque delivery, meaning
the front end wants to drift to the outside of the corner.

The worst knock against FWD cars however is in the acceleration department.  No
matter how much horsepower they have, they are not as good as acceleration off
the line or out of corners as RWD/AWD cars.
This is because weight transfers from the front of the car to the back
during acceleration (by Newton's Law, an equal and opposite reaction to the
force of acceleration).  Thus, the front wheels lose traction.  While it's
not true that EVERY RWD/AWD car will out-accelerate EVERY FWD car, the fact
remains that given similar conditions (like weight and horsepower), the
RWD/AWD car will win the battle.

A FWD car's rear-end tends to stick like glue around the corner, since there is
no power spinning the back wheels.
A loose condition can only be induced in a FWD car by a) locking up the wheels
which, while inducing a slide, can slow the car too much and b) by seriously
upsetting the chassis, usually by a very fast, sudden jerk of the steering.

Remember these techniques well, in case you find your FWD car in a position
that requires a quick snap into a line.  For this reason, proper apexing of
the corner (see section 10.1) is required, especially when driving this
kind of car.  Also note that, due to this huge weight transfer onto the
drive wheels, they will tend to wear quite fast and lose traction--this
becomes a serious problem when running longer races.

Beginner versions of Front Wheel Drive cars include the Honda Civic and
Mazda Demio A-Spec. Advanced cars in this class include the Mitsubishi
Eclipse GT.


These are the best of both worlds above, really.  All Wheel Drive vehicles are
special because power from the engine is delivered to all FOUR wheels.
Therefore, these cars have good acceleration, and more importantly they handle
GREAT in the corner.  They can hold a turn quite well for the same reason the FWD
can, because weight transferred during braking applies traction to the front
wheels.  At the same time, they can accelerate well when weight is transferred
to the rear wheels.  Thus, the AWD cars tend to be the quickest THROUGH the
An AWD car with a lot of inertia heading into a corner will be more likely to
understeer, however similar techniques used with the FWD car can be used here to
break it into an oversteer, because traction control prevents you from snapping
the wheels loose with torque in most cases.
The one possible disadvantage to AWD is that, in most cases, the car weighs more than
otherwise equal FWD or RWD cars.  This is due to the additional drivetrain components.

Beginner versions of All Wheel Drive cars include the Nissan Pulsar. Advanced
cars in this class include the Mitsubishi 3000GT Twin Turbo and the Suzuki Escudo.


These special cases are different from other RWD cars because the engine is
mounted midway through the car, instead of at the front. These cars tend to
handle the weight transfer into the corner much better, since they do not
have the tremendous weight of the engine sitting at the front.  This creates a
weight distribution of 50/50 (althought some front engine/rwd cars can achieve
this), minimizing weight transfer during oversteering OR understeering, creating
a very neutral feeling.  However the engine's weight is still situated closer to
the REAR wheels, so it can sometimes cause excessive weight transfer and an
oversteer under throttle.


This is also a somewhat special case that exists with cars like the RUF
Porsches.  The weight of the engine is situated almost entirely over the rear
wheels, creating a rear-biased weight distribution.  On the plus side, this
makes for absolutely insane acceleration, because front-rear weight transfer
PLUS the engine places almost all the car's weight entirely over the drive
wheels.  This also ensures a very neutral feeling to start into the corner, if
not a little bit of understeer due to lack of weight on the front wheels.

However, rear Engine cars experience what is sometimes referred to as "snap
oversteer".  The car will go through the corner very neutral, but if pushed hard
enough the centrifugal force of cornering will eventually unload the weight of
the engine to the outside of the corner.  The problem here is that you've gone
from a perfectly neutral cornering condition to a wild oversteer caused by most
of the car's weight swinging outward.  While this does sound serious, a good
driver that has gotten used to this condition can not only correct early enough
to maintain good speed, but can also create some wicked 4-wheel drifts ;).



Acceleration with an Automatic Transmission is simple--step on the gas ;).
Note however that starting from a static position (eg. beginning of race)
still requires you to moderate your RPM... This of course also depends on
your drive-train type. Generally, if you're running a RWD car, keep the RPM
fairly low when the signal to go arrives--if your RPM is too high, you will
crawl from the starting line smoking your tires off. Typically you keep RPM
at this time around 3000 or so, less depending on your HP or gearing. If
you're geared really high towards acceleration, you may want to begin as low as
a 1000 RPM or so. You also have to keep turbo-lag in mind... turbo
charged cars require you to keep the revs up no matter what, or throttle
response will become nill for an agonizing moment.

When accelerating with Front Wheel Drive cars, you will rarely spin the
tires without serious horsepower. Keep the RPMs up in the high range either way.
Same goes for 4WD cars, though you usually get a little smoke out of these.
Remember: smoking the tires a little when the green flag drops is not a problem,
as long as you get up to speed quick enough. The RPM you start at is something
you need to get a feel for, since it varies with every car, but generally 4WD
and FWD allow you to basically pin it.


Same notes about starting from a green flag, but some words on shifting
are needed.

For those who don't know, a Manual Transmission will not change
gears unless you tell it to, meaning you can start in 1st gear and if you
don't shift, the car will redline and eventually stop gaining speed (and if
this were real life, you'd over-rev the engine and blow it up too ;).

In the long run, a stick is a much better choice as it provides quicker
acceleration (since you can shift a little later than an auto would, edging out
that last little bit of HP in that gear).

A standard gets you through the corner faster too; an automatic with often stay
in a certain gear through a corner, and end up accelerating too slowly out of
the corner. Downshifting for cornering allows you to accelerate much quicker out
of the corners and gives improved response during and coming out of slides (and
if you're not careful, can take ya for a loop too ;).  Downshifting for a corner
also causes the engine to act as a brake as well, aiding you in the slowing

To properly shift your gears, wait for the tach (tachometer, the gauge on the
bottom right of your screen) to reach near redline, then shift up. If you wait
too long and bring the RPM right up through redline, you may stop gaining
horsepower and lose a bit of acceleration (and again, if this is real life,
you'd blow the engine).
Sometimes however this helps during cornering, to keep it in a lower gear to
prevent heading up into the wall. See section 10.0 for more info on cornering.
So overall, the basic idea is to shift when the needle is entering the red ;).


Whenever I try to teach beginners how to take a corner, the most common
mistake they make is braking too late. Braking really should not be used TO
corner, rather to slow heading INTO the corner.

Oftentimes when you brake during your turn, you will either slide out too much,
or understeer and cause your car to drift up to the corner. Braking at high
speeds usually results in uncontrollable sliding. My father's a fellow stockcar
driver, and his philosophy on cornering is fairly simple: "If the wheels aren't
rotating, you have no control", meaning that if the wheels are not rotating
because you have applied the brakes, they will follow the intertia and slide in
the direction the car is going, frequently towards the outside of the corner.
And while threshold braking prevents total wheel lock up, the fact remains that
the slower the tire is allowed to move, the less traction it can gain.

Thus, brakes should be used ENTERING the corner--I cannot stress this enough.
Now, with the tweaking possible in Simulation Mode, allowing you to adjust the
strength of your front and back brakes, this can be compensated for somewhat,
but the basic idea still remains. This problem with braking is especially
evident when driving RWD cars, because of the torque they generate through the
corners combined with the weight transferring OFF of the drive wheels from
braking. Either you will get very loose and lose control, or you will understeer
and not be able to recover in time. Remember, BRAKE WHEN ENTERING THE CORNER,
then turn and downshift when needed.  This of course does not apply to
brake-induced drifting, most often with FWD cars.


First a couple of notes:

-OUTSIDE/INSIDE: referring to the "outside" or "inside" of a turn--pretty
straight-forward, the "outside" of, say, a left turn would be the right side of
the turn; the "inside" of that turn would be the left side.

-WEIGHT TRANSFER: when entering a corner in a car in real life, you will
notice that your weight will shift to the outside of that corner. This is
known as centrifugal force. Ever swing a bucket of water around, and the
water stays in the bottom of the bucket even when upside down? That's
centrifugal force. The same thing applies to cars entering corners.  The true
physics of it actually focus on the centre of an imaginary arc and centripital force,
but to explain the physics of a car during cornering, the basic idea of centrifugal
force works fine.

Throughout the corner the weight of the car will shift to the outside. More
specifically during deceleration , the weight will shift from the inside rear of
the car to the outside front of the car, because there is still forward inertia
from entering the corner. This back to front weight transfer is applied further
if braking occurs.

Weight transfer is what causes both understeering and oversteering (see below).
In addition to the weight transfer caused by centrifugal force and intertia,
braking also comes into play.


Apexing a turn refers to taking the fastest and shortest possible line
around the corner.  This is usually accomplished by starting on the outside of
the turn, diving to the inside, and coming out on the outside again. Thus:

        |      b___________        In this rather simple example of a
	|      |		   perfect 90 degree turn, the idea
        |      |                   is to get from point a to point c,
        |      |                   but THROUGH b, taking the shortest route
        |      |                   around the corner.
        |      |                   Obviously, apexing a corner is easier
	|a     | 		   the bigger, wider and more gradual
        |      |                   the turn is. Running faster cars,
        |      |                   especially RWD, may require you to slide
        |      |                   the back end out when you reach point b
        |      |                   to prevent from hitting the outside
                                   around point c (see 5.2 below).

There are other ways to apex a turn, depending of course on the shape of the
turn. On a really sharp hairpin or "almost-hairpin" turn, a different path must
be chosen:
         /            \
        |              \
        |               \
        |                \
        |     b___        \         In this example, the idea is to get 	
        |      |  \        \	    from point a to point c, but this
        |      |   \        \       time the nose of your car should
        |a     |    \        \      already be pointing around to point b.
        |      |     \      c \     This can be done by sliding the car
        |      |     |        |     around with a RWD or even 4WD, or
        |      |     |        |     slowing down and taking the turn sharp
        |      |     |        |     enough with a FWD car.
				    Ideally you should end up on the
				    outside of the corner, point c.
                                    It is especially important to start
                                    this turn far to the outside near point 	
				    a.  If you hug the inside and attempt 			
	    			    to turn into point b, often your car
	    			    will end up nose-first outside the
	    			    corner (in the grass, dirt or the


Sliding or "drifting" is done most often with RWD cars, but also occurs with
other drivetrain setups. Sliding the car refers to turning a corner so sharply
that you swing the back end of the car out, sliding the back tires around.
Sometimes this can be a bad thing but in most cases, it is the best way FOR a
car to take a corner, to prevent you from understeering and drifting to the
outside of the turn.

One must note however, that careful control must be used to ensure that you do
not "spin out" or "loop" the car, or you're in big trouble.

To slide effectively, it is best to approach the corner and brake
EARLY, being sure to point the nose of your car toward the inside part of the
corner--if it's a right hand turn, crank the car to the right so that the nose
points to the inside of the turn, while applying the brakes. Let off the brakes
early so that you do not spin out, or simply slow the car down too much. If all
goes well, the back of your car will slide around to the outside of the turn.

But you're not done yet; if you just hammer the gas and go, you
will either loop it, or smack your rear quarterpanel against an outside wall.
You now have to "countersteer" to bring the car back. I may refer to this
throughout the Compendium as "counter(ing)", "bringing it out/back" or
"correcting". This is when you counteract the affects of a slide by steering
into it. For example, if you were to take a hard right turn, the back end of the
car would slide out to the left--in order to "correct" this, turn the wheels to
the left; this will bring the back end around in the proper direction (hopefully
in time :). The amount you have to turn the wheel in correction depends on the
severity of the slide and the handling of your specific car. In the case of the
4WD car, the slide is often much easier to correct, as the front wheels will
also pull the car's front end outward since they also have power delivered to
them. Get used to this quick countersteer, so you do not end up "overcorrecting"
and sending the front end careening to the outside of the turn instead.


Navigating an S-Turn requires good timing and expert setup. One must take the
first turn while taking into account how he will enter the second one. The basic
principle follows the idea of apexing a turn--take the shortest route possible,
so less turns are needed.

                      |      d|
                      |       |
                       \       \
                        \       \
                        /       /
           ____________/       /
          /            c      /
         /                   /
        |                   /
        |      b___________/       In this example, the idea again is to
        |      /                   get from point a to point d, but to take
        |      |                   the shortest route possible, through b
        |      |                   and c.  In this particular diagram, this
        |a     |                   is pretty simple, being almost a
        |      |                   straight line.

Now, in extreme cases, the corner at point c may be a much sharper left
turn, and thus you must be prepared to start an early slide (or slow and
turn early with FWD) AS you come out of your first turn. To do this, simply
jerk it quickly in the other direction, remembering to countersteer quickly.
In addition, it is often best to apply the brakes briefly around the outside of
the center turn (point c as above) to perform this slide, or to otherwise slow
you enough that you don't hit the outside of the middle turn (below point d as


When driving a RWD car around a corner, you must always be ready to
countersteer--when using a normal D-pad controller, this can often be done
by quickly tapping to countersteer. If you simply hold in the outside
direction you will overcorrect and be in even bigger trouble. If you find
yourself understeering too much, with your nose heading to the outside of
the turn, it is possible to throw yourself into a sharper slide, even from a
gradual one you may be performing. To do this simply crank it sharper and
longer than you did initially. Sometimes you may even have to briefly tap the
brakes to get the tires sliding. Worst case scenario, you will smack your ass-
end into the outside wall (if any) and be off. This is a good technique to use
on corners with outside walls if you find yourself losing a slide, but try not
to do it often on open turns unless you're SURE the sharper slide will keep you
on the pavement.

Hitting the grass can often be worse than spinning out. For cases like this,
"peppering" the brakes (tapping them briefly for a short period) and letting off
the gas will also work to slow the car down enough, and at the same time not
allowing it to understeer too much. The problem with this is that, with RWD
cars, this may cause you to slide too much... This will take practice, you need
a definite feel for it.


Always remember that VERY quick recoveries from slides are commonplace with
AWD, so practice the proper amount of correction needed, to prevent you from
overcorrecting. A mistake that plagues beginners became popular first in Sega
Rally, which became known as the "pinball effect": players correct too quickly
and end up bringing the nose into the outside wall (if any), then try to correct
again and bounce of the inside wall, then back out, etc...
If you're in an open turn and this happens, chances are you'll just fishtail
wildly and loop it anyways. And always remember, you will most often outhandle
the other cars in the corner with AWD, so don't be afraid to attempt to pass
them on the outside, but of course always be weary of dirty tactics (see section
10.7 ;).


Braking is, in fact, one of your best friends when driving a FWD. It is
pretty difficult to slide uncontrollably when braking with a FWD, unless you TRY
to do it ;). So, don't be afraid to dive to the inside under heavy braking to
pass an opponent, just remember to know the limits so you don't get into a heavy
understeering condition.
Note that during extreme corners like hairpins, the chassis will be upset enough
to induce a fairly minor oversteer, so you still need to be ready to correct if
need be.


From the door-to-door competitive world of stockcar racing, you can learn many
devious techniques for out-DRIVING your other opponents. So, you're a "measly"
Toyota Supra with oh, let's say 280 hp. Up ahead of you leading the race is the
powerful Dodge Viper GTS, with 460 hp.  What to do? You just aren't fast enough!

So what... OUTDRIVE 'EM. One of the most common driving rules in the racing
business is that passing on the inside is easier.  Of course there are
advantages to high and low lines, it depends on your driving style and the
circumstances.  But for the inside line, you take a shorter route around the
corner than they do, and also tend to get a better run INTO the corner.

But what's even better is a classic short-track technique, commonly referred to
as "using" the other car. When you get up on the inside of another car in the
corner, DON'T let off the gas and DON'T brake. Let the other car act as your
guide, as your "wall", if you will. You can ride them all the way around the
corner without letting up and take right off when you come out of the turn. The
other car also prevents you from moving to the outside of the corner, and
usually keeps your ass-end around the corner too. This is not so easy against
experienced human players, as they can fight back--for example, they can let off
ever so briefly early in the corner and cause you to fly off ahead of them into
the wall, or outside of the turn either way--However this is a VERY easy way to
beat the CPU. You will often see the whole field of computer cars check up as
they reach the outside of the turn; don't follow their example :). Instead, just
plow right into the turn and USE the cars on the outside. Often this can
slingshot you from last place to first in one turn.

Now note that this "dirty" tactic is kind of unsportsmanlike and should only be
used if you're racing against someone that doesn't mind and will just do it back
to you in a similar case ;).

More strats will be added later.


Also known as "slip-streaming", this makes use of another car's air
resitance to increase your speed. When a car moves, it must push against
the air, causing a resistance. The shape of the car can determines its
amount of wind resistance, i.e. if it is aerodynamic, more of the air tends
to flow easily around the car, then become a direct force against it. The
less wind resistance you have on your car, the faster it will go (and
alternately, air flow can create downforce on parts of the car to gain more
traction, i.e. the rear wing/spoiler, and the front air dam).

So, what do you do if you get caught walking in a wind storm? You try and
find some place, perhaps a doorway, where the wind cannot hit you--you're
creating a barrier against the wind. Drafting is based on this principle;
obviously, if there is an object in front of your car blocking the air, it
will greatly decrease the wind resistance on your own car.

Thus, in order to draft, you tuck behind another car in front of you, taking the
wind resistance off of your car and allowing to accelerate to a greater speed.
Simply, once you notice yourself almost running into the back of the car in
front, slip off to the side, and your built-up speed will allow you to literally
slingshot around the car. This technique is ESPECIALLY important in the
Megaspeed Races to get into the lead. This is also an excellent way for slightly
slower cars to gain an edge--if you get a great exit off of a corner leading to
a longer straight and manage to get behind a slightly faster car for a moment,
you can draft it and slip by.

NOTE: drafting only works at fairly high speeds, and you of course have to
be fairly close behind the car in front for the draft to work. In other
words, drafting is important on places like High Speed Ring or the Test
Track, but is pretty much non-existant on lower-speed track like Autumn Ring
Mini or Motorsports Land.


The Dual Shock provides analog control. What this allows you to do is
moderate the amount of pressure you apply to the controls. This in effect
makes it act more like a real steering wheel--if you're coming up on a long,
easy curve, you can simply apply a small amount of pressure and take the turn
nice and smooth, as you would turning the steering wheel just a little bit in
real life. When using the normal D-Pad on an easy curve, you have to tap it
repeatedly in short increments. The analog allows you to not only stop this
tapping, and thus stop the quick jerks and sliding from the car, but also it may
help you shave a couple hundredths of a second of your lap times.

I DEFINETELY recommend the Dual Shock controller for Gran Turismo, also
because it has the "rumble-pack" addition to it, which creates small
vibrations in the controller when you skid the tires, hit other cars or
objects, or even accelerate with a hard-running engine. It's not as if you
can't PLAY the game without it, it's just a really nice addition to an
already great game.


11.1  - Tahiti Road

Turn 1- Long shallow right hander.  You shouldn't have to brake at any point
in this turn, even coming off the high speed front stretch--just pepper the gas,
and try to exit as far to the right as possible.

Turn 2- gradual uphill left to set up for Turn 3.  Again, take essentially at full
throttle, but keep your exit to the left.

Turn 3- mostly full throttle through this turn, unless you blew your exit coming out
of 2.  Stay to the left on exit.

Turn 4- the first remotely challenging turn of the course, as you fly down a slope
into a sharp right, heading back uphill suddenly.  Most reasonably fast cars will have to
tap the brakes on entrance then get back on it, and try to keep the nose of the car as far
into the apex as possible, as this turns into a sort of S-turn on exit.

Turn 5- gradual-looking uphill left, but you've still got a good head of steam coming off of
4 as you head uphill.  Provided you apexed Turn 4, you should be able to dip to the left under
full throttle and hug the inside of this uphill all the way.

Turn 6- another uphill right, fairly gradual.  Faster cars may have to tap the brakes on entrance to
keep it closer to the inside.

Turn 7- sharp 90 degree right coming off the loooong curved back stretch.  You'll have to brake
heavily and nose the car into the apex as hard as possible... with faster RWD cars, you may get
suddenly loose on corner exit, so be ready to encounter a drift.

Turn 8- gradual uphill left, take at full throttle.  Keep to the left on exit.

Turn 9- even if you kept far left on exiting Turn 8, you might still have to pepper the throttle a
bit to keep the car in line.

Turn 10- the final turn comes off a big downhill, but is fairly gradual.  Slower cars can take this
nice and wide under full throttle, just remember the pit wall is there ;).  For faster cars you might
have to let off slightly, and try to keep the apex.

11.2  - Midfield Raceway

Turn 1- sharp right hander off of the front stretch, so you'll have a good
bit of speed on entrance.  Start far left, brake slightly but stay off for
a short moment, then hit full throttle... if you nail the throttle too early
you can drift up into the grass.

Turn 2/3- really gentle right/left S-turn.  The only real thing to worry
about here is if you're REALLY heading into it with a head of steam, driving
one of the faster cars, you have to make sure to cut it to the left reasonably
hard to prevent grazing the wall on right side.

Turn 4- similar to Turn 1, a sharp right hander into a tunnel.  Start far to
the left, brake slightly and hit the apex... you can get back on the gas fairly
early here and drift up to the left, provided you run back to the right before
the next turn.

Turn 5- REAL uneven sweeping left.  It's rather bumpy around this and very easy to
loop the car if you just stay full on the throttle.  Best way is to let off completely
heading in and sweep to the inside (but not too sharply), maybe even brake slightly,
then get back on the throttle gingerly, making sure to pepper it as the car begins to hop

Turn 6/7- fairly sharp left/right s-turn that can be taken usually by just letting off the
throttle and hopping the rumble strips.  Just be ABSOLUTELY sure you come back to the right
side as soon as possible.

Turn 8- Very sharp, slightly banked left hander.  Brake heavy and try to nose the car as close
to the inside rock outcropping as possible.  The closer you hit the apex, the sooner you can
get back on the throttle--watch the throttle on exit too, the car can jump out on you.

Turn 9/10- slight uphill S-turn.  Take at full throttle, dumps you back out on the main stretch.

11.3  - High Speed Ring (3.1 km)

A great track for 2-player races, you can spend your time worrying about
your opponents and less about the track, because for most of the turns, a
little slip up will not cost you the race.

Turn 1- Take it flat out, plain and simple.  When going into the corner at
top speed off of the main straight, just make sure to cut your exit as far
to the inside as possible, because at very high speeds your car can drift up
toward the wall at the beginning of the next straight.

Turn 2- Let off and brake slightly as you enter the turn, again making sure
to apex the turn by keeping low to the inside.  This will allow you to drift
wide to the outside on your exit and gain maximum speed out of the corner.
For most good-handling cars, you should simply have to let off briefly,
then get back on the throttle midway through the corner.

Turn 3- Following the short straight, a right hander into the S-Turn.
It is crucial that you start on the far left and cut as far to the inside
as possible, so that you don't drift to the outside and ruin your entrance
to the rest of the S-Turn.
If you keep real far to the inside, you can cut left real sharp to hit the
inside of Turn 4.  If you find yourself drifting to much, try reducing your
speed a tad on the inside of this turn, which will allow you a faster exit

Turn 4- If you apex Turn 3 properly and cut it left real sharp, you should
come to the inside of this turn with the gas right full already.  After the
apex, let the car drift to the outside now on your exit to gain maximum

Turn 5- a very mild right, keep the accelerator pinned and stay RIGHT to the
inside to set up for the final big turn.

Turn 6- You will have built up a lot of speed out of Turn 5, so be sure to
stay as far to the outside when entering.  Brake and bring the car to the
bottom of Turn 6 then floor it again at the apex to exit the turn at best
speed.  NOTE: for many cars, simply letting off the gas will do, provided
you keep to the bottom of the corner.

11.4  - Super Speedway

Turn 1/2- Take at full throttle... Fastest possible way is to hug the inside
line as close as possible, and be ready to pepper the throttle if the car gets

Turn 3/4- For most proper handling cars, starting in the high groove you can
usually just let off and yank it to the inside... you'll shoot into the turn real
quick and it'll seem all good, but upon exiting Turn 4, faster cars, even with
soft set suspension, will often suddenly jump around like crazy, so be ready
for it.

11.5  - Seattle Short Course

Turn 1- This looks at first to be nice hairpin, but it's actually two 90 degree
corners together, making it more square.  Overall the fastest way around this
turn is to begin far outside, brake heavy, just tip the R/F wheel over the rumble
strip, and keep the speed down slightly to hug the entire inside of both 90 degree
turns.  The other option is to take it wide and treat it more like a wide hairpin,
drifting the entire thing--however you do lose some time doing it this way.

Turn 2- Rather sharp uphill right, but if apexed can basically be taken at full

Turn 3- after a moderatly fast uphill, a sharp right.  For most faster cars you'll
have to let off just as you hit the crest of the uphill, and crank it right.  In
most cases, you'll need to brake a bit.  Again, if you start far left and sweep
straight into the apex, you can do this without heavy slowing.  You may want to
watch the throttle just after hitting the peak of the hill too, the car can jump
out from under you.

Turn 4- Ultra-tight left hander, coming off the downhill, brake and nose the car
into the apex... stay off the throttle until you've cleared it or are totally
comfortable with it, as this is a blind corner beginning an s-turn.

Turn 5- completing the S-turn, a sharp right hander coming right off of Turn 4.
Because it's coming off a blind corner in Turn 4, it's imperitive that you stay close to
the left on exit.  Then, hit the apex and, if done right, get back on the
throttle coming out of this turn.  If you think you're drifting too much to
the left OR right, brake slightly and try and hit the apex in time.

Turn 6- reasonably sharp right hander into a downhill.  Hold to the left as late as
possible then cut into the apex.  If you hit the apex just right, you won't have to
brake except in the fastest cars... just throttle down slightly.

Turn 7- fairly shallow left turn coming off the downhill.  If you let off early enough
and apex it just right, you can actually pull it off without braking.  If not, just a light
peppering of the brake on the apex and get back on the gas nice and early.

Turn 8/9- fairly tight right hander.  You'll have to brake slightly as you enter the apex, but
you don't have to slow down too much.  From here on try your best to cut right through the middle
of the corner, then cut the apex coming out of 9.  If you cut it too far to the inside, you'll have
to slow way down to prevent hitting the outside wall coming back onto the main stretch.

11.6  - Rome Short Course

Turn 1- Can basically be taken at full throttle... for some of the higher top speed cars you'll
have to make sure to hit the rumble strip at the apex as tight as possible so you don't run up
into the guardrail to the left.

Turn 2- Can be taken pretty much at full throttle, hugging the rumble strip to the inside.

Turn 3- very sharp right hander that's basically blind.  Be sure to brake heavily and hit the apex,
then you can get back on the throttle early.

Turn 4 after a loooong straightaway, a rather sharp right hander.  If you downshift some and let off nice and early,
you'll only have to brake slightly over the apex, then get back on the throttle.

Turn 5- Pretty sharp right hander, brake pretty heavy and hit the apex as close as possible, and you can get back on
the throttle early, heading out onto the main straight.

11.7 - Red Rock Valley Speedway

Turn 1- Basically taken at full speed, but some of the lower/stiffer cars will bounce around a ton all throughout
the turn, so you'll hafta stay on your toes.

Turn 2/3- big, wide S-turn that looks like it can be taken at full throttle, but the banking switches in the middle to
really screw ya up.  You'll hafta let off at the apex and stay off until you're sure you can cut it far to the right
to prevent running off into the grass.

Turn 4- Another gradual turn.  Either way you take it, it's best to hug the bottom all the way around.  If you're heading
in with a big head of steam, you'll have to brake slightly.

Turn 5/6- coming out of the tunnel, a quick right into a quick left.  Hug far to the left, and cut the apex as sharp as
possible.  You can head into it at full throttle, then let off and yank to the left into the right.

Turn 7- drift up to the rumble strip off of Turn 6, then brake slightly and yank it to the bottom... you can get back on
the throttle pretty soon if you do this, but as with Turn 1, watch the car as it may jump around a tad.

11.8 - Seattle Circuit

Turn 1- This looks at first to be nice hairpin, but it's actually two 90 degree
corners together, making it more square.  Overall the fastest way around this
turn is to begin far outside, brake heavy, just tip the R/F wheel over the rumble
strip, and keep the speed down slightly to hug the entire inside of both 90 degree
turns.  The other option is to take it wide and treat it more like a wide hairpin,
drifting the entire thing--however you do lose some time doing it this way.

Turn 2- Rather sharp uphill right, but if apexed can basically be taken at full

Turn 3- branches off from Rome Short Course with a gradual right to the big uphill.
This can be taken at full throttle.  The fastest way around it is to hop the rumble strip
at the apex, but this can easily unsettle the car for the uphill jumps.  Either way, be sure
to sweep to the left as soon as possible.

Turn 4- As you approach the top crest of the hill, brake slightly and hit the apex just right,
then you can get back on the throttle fairly early.

Turn 5- after another downhill straight, a fairly sharp right hander.  Brake slightly and hit
the apex.

Turn 6- shortly after exiting Turn 5, hang as far to the left as possible, then you can apex at
full throttle in most cases.

Turn 7- can basically be taken at full throttle, but pepper it to make sure you come out as far to
the right as possible to set up for the next turn.

Turn 8- a sharp left hairpin with a bit of a downhill.  Either braking late and drifting or brake early
and hit the apex quickly will work, but when you get back on the throttle be careful, as the ass end often
jumps out from under you.

Turn 9- gradual right hand into the big downhill straight.  Take at full throttle.

Turn 10/11- like Turn 1, two 90 degree turns together to make a big hairpin.  It's quite wide, so you can
take a lazy drift from far left.  Or, brake heavy and hit the start of the apex.  Either way you do it,
you have to yank it right as soon as possible into turn 11.

Turn 12- sort of an s-turn right off Turn 11, you can basically take this just by letting off coming out of
turn 11.  Get back on the throttle nice and early.

Turn 13- off of Turn 12, yank it left fairly early and you can split this "S-turn" at full throttle without

Turn 14- sharp right hander.  Brake heavy and hit the apex as best as possible, but there's room to get back
on the throttle pretty quick, thanks to a small runoff area on exit.

Turn 15- after a short straight, a small "S-turn" back onto the main straightaway.  Take at full throttle.

11.9 - Rome Circuit

Turn 1- Can basically be taken at full throttle... for some of the higher top speed cars you'll
have to make sure to hit the rumble strip at the apex as tight as possible so you don't run up
into the guardrail to the left.

Turn 2- Can be taken pretty much at full throttle, hugging the rumble strip to the inside.

Turn 3/4- Important turn, brake heavy and hit DEEP into the apex, then get back  on the throttle
quickly, drift upward slightly, then yank it back to the left to stick to the inside of turn 4.

Turn 5- heading into the city now, this gradual right hander can be taken at full throttle.

Turn 6- sharp hairpin right.  Hold far left and brake heavily.  If you brake early enough, you can
nose the car right onto the rumble strip at the apex, then get back on the throttle.  If you hold it
too far outside, you run the risk of running off into the guardrail on the outside.

Turn 7- after a short straight, another fairly sharp right.  With even most of the faster cars, you can
let off early and cut the apex REAL sharp, and not have to brake.

Turn 8- deceptively sharp left hander, you may have to brake slightly to nose into the apex, but otherwise
you don't have to slow too much.

Turn 9- another deceptively sharp corner heading right with a small downhill.  You'll be full throttle off
of Turn 8, and if you hit the apex real early (might have to let off slightly), you can take it at full throttle.
If you run too wide you might brush up against the left-hand guardrail.

Turn 10- slight left hander, take at full speed.

Turn 11- after a loooong straightaway, a rather sharp right hander.  If you downshift some and let off nice and early,
you'll only have to brake slightly over the apex, then get back on the throttle.

Turn 12- Pretty sharp right hander, brake pretty heavy and hit the apex as close as possible, and you can get back on
the throttle early, heading out onto the main straight.

11.10  - Grindelwald

Turn 1- a reasonably sharp left hander as you enter into the rural area.  Even in the fastest cars
you should be able to take this mostly under full throttle... try to keep your exit a bit to the right.

Turn 2- pretty sharp uphill left turn.  The turn itself only requires letting off briefly in most cars,
but if you have to brake to keep it to the left, do it, to set up for Turn 3.

Turn 3- hairpin right on a slight uphill.  There's not a lot of room to screw up here, and because it's
somewhat of a blind corner, it's hard to retain your line.  No matter what you're running, it's probably a
good idea to keep a tight apex through here, and be ready to correct, as loose cars will suprise you here.

Turn 4- gradual uphill left, take at full throttle, keep your exit to the left.

Turn 5- sharp right with a slight uphill.  Brake heading in and cut the apex, but it shouldn't be
sharp enough to get very loose.  Try your best to exit far right.

Turn 6- if you exited Turn 5 far right, you can clip this apex pretty easy, and get back on the throttle
nice and early for this uphill left.  Keep to the right on exit.

Turn 7- 90 degree left, but fairly broad with a wide exit, so only a brief braking zone is really
required.  Drift wide right on exit.

Turn 8/9- gradual left/right s-turn, take wide at full throttle.  Keep left
on exit.

Turn 10/11- another real gradual s-turn, take at full throttle.

Turn 12/13- full head of steam as you head downhill, let off and coast thru, get on the throttle
midway through--stay to the right on ex it.

Turn 14- downhill hairpin left, and you'll have a good bit of speed.  Brake hard and tuck the nose
tight to the apex, as you don't have much room to maneuver.  Excellent place to make use of a drifting
technique ;).  Hold to the left on exit.

Turn 15/16- downhill left/right s-turn, coast through the left, then brake lightly and apex the right.
Get back on the throttle early, and you may have to correct.

Turn 17/18- right/left s-turn.  The first right is deceptively sharp, and you're carrying a decent bit
of speed.  Brake and nose the car to the bottom of the shallow bank so you can drift somewhere to the middle
lane on exit.  The left can be taken at full throttle.

11.11 - Laguna Seca Raceway

Turn 1- After a good bit of speed off the main straight, a sharp left hander.  Keep as far to the right
as possible then brake heavy and nose the car in.  High horsepower RWD cars will tend to jump out from
under you here so be watchful.

Turn 2- Rather sharp right hander, some slower cars can take this simply by letting off the gas, faster
cars will need to brake slightly.

Turn 3- In most cars, let off the throttle slightly and if you apex it just right, you can get back on the
gas early and not have to brake.

Turn 4- After a fairly long curved straight, a wide left turn.  Despite its appearance you'll need to brake
pretty heavy.  If you stick to the rumble strip on the inside you can get back on the gas fairly early.

Turn 5- A second left hander followed by an uphill.  If apexed this can be taken at full throttle.

Turn 6- The dreaded "Corkscrew" S-turn.  Novices consider this the most difficult corner in the game, but it's
really not that hard once you know what's coming.  The whole problem most people have is heading into it
far too fast and not being able to hit the apexes.  The second you come over the crest of the uphill brake HARD
and nose the car to the left to hit the first apex.... you'll then be lined up pretty much perfectly for
the second apex.  As you start back down the hill, get back full on throttle, but be ready to correct as higher
horsepower cars will get loose at this point.  The only downside to this method of taking the corkscrew is that,
when braking at the crest, the ass end will hop up in the air and you'll lose traction momentarily.  This is why
it's imperitive to get the car straight and true on the uphill so that the second you regain traction you can be
set up for the first apex.

Turn 7- High speed dowhill left coming off the corkscrew... with apexing, you can take this pretty much at full
throttle, lifting off here and there.  Be sure to hug left the second you exit the corner.

Turn 8- somewhat wide right hander, you'll be coming in at a fair bit of speed.  You can take this with only light
braking provided you apex, but don't take it too wide or you won't have time to set up for Turn 9.

Turn 9- this, IMO, should be considered one of the hardest corners in the game.  After a short uphill, this is a VERY
sudden 90 degree left that is also partially blind due to the pit wall on the inside.  You can either brake heavy and
drift around the turn, but it's so small and sharp that you're almost guarenteed to slide off into the wall or dirt
at least a little.  The more difficult, but faster method is to brake hard the second you can see the corner of the wall
at the apex, then nose the car in as close to it as possible.  If you do it right your L/F tire will hop over it and you
can get back on the gas fairly early... be ready to correct, the ass end often hops out here.  This dumps you back out onto
the main straight.

11.12 - Apricot Hill

Turn 1- gradual left hander, you can essentially take this at full throttle.  Try your best to keep
it to the outside, particularily on exit, because you HAVE to set up right for turn 2.

Turn 2- sharp downhill left, surprises the hell out of people new to this track.  Off of turn 1, you
should be pretty far to the right.  You can either let off, tap the brakes briefly, get back on the throttle
and do a controlled drift through, or you can brake pretty heavily and keep the nose down to the left rumble
strip (best with FWD), so you can get back on the throttle fairly soon.  Either way, bring it to the left on exit.

Turn 3- after a short downhill shoot, a decent right hander.  Lots of room to apex here, to tap the brakes
briefly (if at all), nose the car in ,and get back on the throttle nice and early.

Turn 4/5- gradual uphill left into a decent right hander.  Take the left at WOT, but try to hug left throughout, then you
should be able to hop the apex through the right turn at full speed, maybe peppering the gas slightly.

Turn 6- gradual left hander, take at full throttle.

Turn 7- gradual but looong left hander.  It's best to get off the throttle fairly soon on entrance, then get back on it
and pepper the gas as you go.  Keep it to the right on exit.

Turn 8- sharp hairpin right, with a LOT of speed on entrance.  Not much room to maneouver either, so nose it into the apex
heavily, and you'll prolly end up drifting a bit (except FWD).

Turn 8- gradual uphill left, take at full throttle, hug to the left.

Turn 9- gradual downhill right, take at full throttle, hug to the right.

Turn 10- fairly sharp left hander, you can usually take with just letting off, or a slight tap of
the brakes, then get back on the gas and correct as needed.  Try and keep the exit to the left to set
up for the s-turn.

Turn 11/12- uphill right/left S-turn, you might have to brake slightly to get thru 11, then get back on the gas
early, correct as needed and hop the rumble strip to apex Turn 12.  Or you can be a cheating bastard and just hop
the whole thing.

Turn 13- pretty gradual left to exit onto the front straight, can usually be taken at WOT, or just pepper the gas a bit.

11.13  - Trial Mountain (3.979 km)

An intricate course through a forest mountain area.  It has some neat S-turn
corners that take some good driving as well as a few wide drifting turns.

Turn 1- Right off the start/finish line.  Take it at full throttle, but still
be sure to apex it to set up for Turn 2.

Turn 2- Again, take this uphill at full speed.  The ass end can get a little
light if you follow the apex (a bit of a peak there), so be ready for the car
to hop around a little sometimes.

Turn 3- You must slide through this tunnel to gain the best exit.  Off of
Turn 2 you'll still be heading uphill--brake, then hold to the inside and
control the slide at full throttle again.

Turn 4- Can get you in a lot of trouble if not taken properly, heading you
into the rocky wall.  You will enter at a fair bit of speed heading downhill,
so brake heavily and be VERY sure to pop the nose of the car RIGHT into the
inside of this turn and swing the back end out. It is crucial you stay quite
far to the inside, to avoid smacking the outside rock face. Watch the
throttle for RWD on exit, this turn can loop the car fairly easy.

Turn 5- Coming off the short straight, most faster cars will have to let off
or brake slightly to head right, avoiding the outside rock face. Better
handling cars can take this wide open. Be certain to hold far to the inside.

Turn 6- this left turn heading into the tunnel is incredibly wide...  If you
just go half-cocked into it, you can let off and brake slightly, and still
drift perfectly onto the straightaway.  However the best way is to start
wide-right, and as SOON as possible (it may look like too soon) cut the
apex as far to the left as possible, over the yellow markings on the pavement.
If you hit this apex right, you can take the corner at full throttle in any

Turn 7- After the LOOOONG straight you'll come to a big left hander. Brake
heavily and nose the car as far to the inside as possible. Slide the car
around and bring the car back out at the end of the turn.  As with turn 6,
you can just dive into the corner and brake heavy and still make it by
drifting, but if you land the apex as tight as possible you'll only have to
brake briefly, and can get back on the throttle right at the apex.

Turn 8- A small S-turn that can be taken at full speed most of the time.

Turn 9- a nice downhill right hander. Brake first and be sure to cut this
sharply so you don't nail the "grassy knoll" on the outside.

Turn 10- Another wide lefty. Brake at the end of the straight, nose the car
to the inside and drift out to the side on the exit.

Turn 11- a real fun turn, this is a neat left/right S-turn.  You COULD cut
straight across the grass of course... but that would slow ya down.  To take
it "properly", approach the first left wide right and brake lightly.  Then
soon after entering, cut right and get back on the gas.  Another way to take
this turn is to hold to the inside, hop over the left rumblestrip ONTO
the right rumblestrip and back onto the straight.  The advantage is that
you can pretty much take the whole thing with only peppering the throttle.
However you're car can EASILY get away from you coming off the second
rumblestrip, and really screw ya up.  Either that, or make a cool jump for
the replay ;).

11.14  - Clubman Stage Route 5 (2.466 km)

A fun 2-player track, the corners do take some driving, but the race isn't
over if you screw up here or there.  Excessive speeds are possible thanks
to the wide turns and long straights.

Turn 1- You should be up to quite a bit of speed off of the start-finish
line when you hit this turn.  Try to keep a little more to the left down
the straight, but not too much or you won't have room to start into the
outside of the turn, and will probably hit nose-first into the inside of
the tunnel.  The second you hit the entrance, bring the car up high then
begin your apex.  If this is taken properly, you should be able to take the
turn at full throttle, perhaps letting off the gas briefly at the entrance.

Turn 2- Provided you took the initial tunnel turn well, you should try and
exit out to the far left, hugging the wall. As you enter this right turn,
do a simple, smooth apex. You should be able to take it at full throttle
without getting too loose, however with higher horsepower cars you may have
to correct a tad or perhaps let off a little.

Turn 3- after exiting turn 2, hug the far right wall.  Nose the car into the
centre of the turn and brake--a general rule of thumb is to downshift to
second here, but of course this will vary depending on your gears (most
stock-gearing cars will work in this fashion).  After accelerating out of
this turn, try and keep fairly far to the right.

Turn 4/5- A nice long S-turn that can be taken at full speed with minimal

Turn 6- You will enter this at a VERY high speed due to the long straight
after the S-turns. Brake heavily and slide around, being sure to nose the
car fairly far to the inside. Drift back up towards the outside on your
exit to set up for the next turn.

Turn 7- the final turn can be taken a little faster, but not much.  Brake
lightly and drift wide to come out on the outside of the corner, exiting on
to the straight.  Some cars should be able to take it with just letting off
the throttle a little.

11.15  - Grand Valley East (3.025 km)

A nice, bright course with long straightaways, peppered with a few sharp
corners that allow for some nice exciting passing (eg. turn 4).

Turn 1- This begins with a shallow left into the big sharp right.  This is
one of the worst corners in the game to screw up on, because if you drift
to the outside and hit the sandtrap, it is VERY difficult to recover.  Hold as
far as possible to the left as you enter, then brake to a very slow speed and
nose the car to the inside--it's always better to drift a LOT than it is to
slide out into the dirt.  After the apex, hit the throttle again and roll it
out, drifting it out to the left.

Turn 2- This triple-S turn can be taken at full speed. Just make sure to
apex properly so you don't slide it into the grass.

Turn 3- Be sure to start wide left and cut it sharp for the apex, or you'll
be off in the grass.  After the exit, hold her to the right to set up for
the Turn 4 90 degree'er.

Turn 4- An excellent turn for passing if you cut it sharp enough.  Take the
approach wide to the right, then nose the car toward the wall corner to
ensure you don't slide into the dirt on the outside.  Also be careful not to
get on the gas too early, it is very easy to loop a powerful enough car
here, coming in at these speeds on such a sharp turn.

Turn 5- A fairly quick right, with a rock face on the outside.  May have to
let off slightly on your entrance.  Keep wide to the inside then cut it
sharp to the left to grab the next corner, and avoid heading into the grass.

Turn 6- Provided the Turn 5 S-Turn was taken properly, you should enter
this wide right.  Apex it at full speed to exit back onto the main straight
at full speed.

11.16  - Grand Valley Speedway

Turn 1- This begins with a shallow left into the big sharp right.  This is
one of the worst corners in the game to screw up on, because if you drift
to the outside and hit the sandtrap, it is VERY difficult to recover.  Hold as
far as possible to the left as you enter, then brake to a very slow speed and
nose the car to the inside--it's always better to drift a LOT than it is to
slide out into the dirt.  After the apex, hit the throttle again and roll it
out, drifting it out to the left.

Turn 2- Gradual left, take at full throttle.

Turn 3- Uphill right, take at full speed.

Turn 4- downhill left, take at full speed.

Turn 5- hairpin almost identical to turn 1, you're in the sand if you screw up.
Hold to the left as far as possible, brake to a VERY slow speed, nose it as close to
the inside rumble strip as possible.  The sooner you get back on the gas, the more likely
you'll have to correct (or pepper the gas, if it's FWD).

Turn 6- gradual left, but not much room to move.  You may have to pepper the gas lightly, try
to exit to the left as far as possible.

Turn 7- somewhat sharp right hander, most cars can take it just by letting off the gas briefly.
Keep it to the right on exit.

Turn 8- An excellent turn for passing if you cut it sharp enough.  Take the
approach wide to the right, then nose the car toward the wall corner to
ensure you don't slide into the dirt on the outside.  Also be careful not to
get on the gas too early, it is very easy to loop a powerful enough car
here, coming in at these speeds on such a sharp turn.

Turn 9- somewhat gradual left hander, lot sof room to pass too.  Most cars can do a nice
controlled drift around this corner if you prefer, or brake briefly on entrance and you can
hug the rumble strip on the left pretty easily.

Turn 10- through a tunnel and onto the bridge, you'll have to pepper the gas slightly through
the middle part of the corner to stay to the inside.

Turn 11- after the bridge straightaway, a long right hander... the best way to take this is to
tap the brakes slightly on entrance to free the car up, then you can get back on the throttle
REALLY early... try to get to the right side as soon as possible, cuz you'll exit this corner with
a fair bit of speed.  Cars with a sever understeering condition will need to slow a fair bit for this
turn however.

Turn 12/13- sharp left into an even sharper right, this is an excellent place to pass if you run the right
line.  Brake heavily on entrance and nose the car as far over the left apex as possible.  Burp the throttle
slightly on exit to give you a little bit speed, and then you can usually get through turn 13 by peppering
the throttle after that--correct as needed.

Turn 14/15- high speed left/right S-turn, the right is rather deceptive because it's so wide.  Let off the
throttle briefly as you enter 15 and coast for a moment, so you won't drift into the grass on exit.

11.17  - Special Stage Route 5 (3.776 km)

Still my personal favorite track.  This is an excellent mix of pure
speed and intricate cornering, set in a beautiful night background.  Good
passing opportunities arise in turn 3 and the wide turn 6 hairpin.

Turn 1- You should be up to quite a bit of speed off of the start-finish
line when you hit this turn.  Try to keep a little more to the right down
the straight, but not too much or you won't have room to start into the
outside of the turn, and will probably hit nose-first into the inside of
the tunnel.  The second you hit the entrance, bring the car up high then
begin your apex.  If this is taken properly, you should be able to take the
turn at full throttle, perhaps peppering the gas now and then.

Turn 2- Provided you took the initial tunnel turn well, you should try and
exit out to the far left, hugging the wall.  As you enter this right turn,
do a simple, smooth apex.  You should be able to take it at full throttle
without getting too loose, however with higher horsepower cars you may have
to correct a tad.

Turn 3- after exiting turn 2, hug the far right wall.  Nose the car into the
centre of the turn and brake--a general rule of thumb is to downshift to
second here, but of course this will vary depending on your gears (most
stock-gearing cars will work in this fashion).  After accelerating out of
this turn, try and keep fairly far to the right.

Turn 4/5- A nice long S-turn that can be taken at full speed with minimal

Turn 6- the track now exits from Clubman Stage R5 and enters to the rest of
Special Stage R5.  This is a big downhill right--brake a little and keep to
the inside, possibly sliding the back end out a bit.  Be ready to yank 'er
back to the left to avoid hitting the wall on your exit to the straight.

Turn 7- One of the harder hairpins in the game, you can take it one of
two ways.  Either slow to as low as 40-50 mph and turn quickly, or brake from
the straight and slide 'er around, peppering the gas lightly so not to
induce too much spin from the rear tires (assuming a RWD car of course).
The big problem that 4WD and RWD cars have in this turn is oversteering on
the way OUT.  This happens simply by getting on the gas too early--as said
before, peppering the gas and keeping the revs up (crucial in turbo engines
of course) can make a fast power slide possible, but it can get really
scary.  Cars such as the Viper RT/10 are EXCELLENT for this due to their wide
stance and big tires.

Turn 7- a nice shallow right that can be taken full throttle out of the

Turn 8- another turn that should be taken at full speed, provided you take
it fully apexed.  Excellent place to pass, forcing the other car to the
outside where they have to let off.

Turn 9- after the long straight you'll empty into a hard right then into the
S-Turns.  Brake heavily and nose the car in to the right as far as possible--
then get ready to cut left quickly.

Turn 10/11- The S-Turn is particularily dangerous because the outside
of the 2nd turn has a small block at the beginning of the wall, which can
stop you dead in your tracks.  Assuming you cut it early enough off of
turn 9, you can actually get through this S-turn by letting off the throttle
quickly and nudging it around Turn 10, then yanking it right for Turn 11.
Above all else, watch your speed.

Turn 12- a BIG sweeping right, it can be taken at full speed, just keep the
throttle down every so often so you don't drift up to far. You will empty
out onto the Start/Finish straight.

11.18  - Autumn Ring (2.95 km)

An extended version of Autumn Ring Mini, a good mix of long straights, some
great S-Turns and good passing opportunities on the sharper turns. Not quite
a beginner's course, there are a few places where screwing up can put you
right to the back of the pack.

Turn 1- A sharp right turn that you hit at a fairly high rate of speed.
This is also a very dangerous turn because of the sandtrap on it's outside,
which is very difficult to recover from.  Hold as far as possible to the
left as you enter, then brake to very slow speed and nose the car to the
inside--it's always better to drift a LOT than it is to push out into the
dirt.  After the apex, hit the throttle again and roll it out, drifting it
out to the left.  Immediately after recovering, bring the car to the right
along the short straight to set up for Turn 2.

Turn 2- a fairly gradual left turn leading to the S-Turns.  You can often
take this at full speed, or simply by letting of the gas briefly.  Bring the
car to the left on exit to set up for the S-Turns.

Turn 3/4/5- This entire Triple-S turn can be taken at full speed, apexing
the corners.  Exit Turn 7 to the left to set up for the final turn.

Turn 6- When driving slower or lower horsepower cars, you can usually take
this at full throttle.  Faster cars may have to throttle down slightly to
avoid popping into the grass.  This will exit back out to the main straight.

Turn 7- a very fast hairpin with dirt on the outside that can loop you
quickly.  Keep the speed down and nose the car in to the red/white barrier,
then drift wide... after which, make sure to bring it to the right to set
up for turn 8.

Turn 8- Brake lightly and crank the wheel all the way--you probably won't
slide much, but make sure to keep your speed down so you don't drift up
into the grass.  This then forms into a big long gradual left turn that can
be taken with full throttle.

Turn 9- After a brief downhill coming off of Turn 8, you'll pass under a
bridge and hit a sharp left turn.  The turn is fairly wide, but you can
still drift and hit the grass or dirt on the outside.  Brake sternly coming
out from under the bridge, then try to hug the inside, exiting wide when
you come back out onto the short shoot.

Turn 10/11/12- after the short straight following Turn 9 comes a sharp
uphill left that can be taken at full speed by apexing.  Apexing is indeed
crucial, because IMMEDIATELY after the apex you must nose the car to the
right into Turn 11.  If you don't turn off of Turn 10 sharp enough, you'll
smack the outside barrier.  You should be able to take both corners at full
throttle with the apexing, them let off (or brake slightly) going into Turn
12 to prevent hitting the grass on its outside, exiting onto the next short

Turn 13- A fairly sharp right-hander that can leave you in the grass in
most cases at full throttle.  Either drift through it, or let off briefly
to avoid sliding too far outside.

Turn 14- the final exit onto the main straight. Take at full throttle.

11.19  - Test Course

Since all the corners are the same, I'll just note that most races taking place on this tack
involve very high horsepower cars and 200 mph+ speeds.  Keep your suspension rather soft and keep
the car low to the ground--analog comes in real handy in these corners, as an unstable car will hop
around like crazy and you can very easily loop it.  Both the high and low lines work for the same
reason they do on any other oval track.  The low line is a slightly shorter distance around the track,
but the high line doesn't scrub off as much speed, as it has a slightly more gradual turn radius (you'll
get slightly faster corner exit speeds).

11.20  - Deep Forest (3.58 km)

Another mixture of high-speed straights and a few good turns.  Great passing
opportunities exist in Turns 1 and 4/5.

Turn 1- entering at high speed, this is a pretty sharp left hander.  Brake
heavily exiting the straight and bring the nose right to the inside, but
watch the throttle on high horsepower RWD cars... it is easy to get really
loose on exit with this turn.

Turn 2/3- easy sweeping turns after the short uphill... take at full speed.

Turn 4/5- a small downhill left that turns suddenly into a sharp right.
Enter the left far to its inside and brake generously, then cut the apex of
Turn 5, running almost on the inside grass, then throttle back out.

Turn 6- after running through the tunnel, this is a fairly gradual right-
hander that can usually be taken at full throttle, but be ready to get off
the gas briefly if you drift towards the grass.

Turn 7- after exiting the second tunnel, a fairly gradual left-hander that
can be taken at full speed, slightly uphill.

Turn 8- after the uphill, a bairly noticable right heading into a long
sweeping left.  May have to let off the gas slightly as you enter the left.
Try to exit on the outside.

Turn 9- One of the more devious turns in the game that can take you by
surprise.  Start on the outside then apex the corner, coming down to hug the
walkway on the inside of the turn.  Try very hard to stay as far to the left
throughout the whole turn--exiting even the slightest bit wide will usually
send you into the right-side rock face entering the uphill straight.

Turn 10- The long upwill straight finally exits onto a fairly gradual left
turn.  Let off the throttle briefly and keep to the inside to avoid
running onto the grass on the right.

Turn 11- Small lefthander that heads back downhill.  Take at full speed.

Turn 12- the final turn that heads uphill back onto the main straight.  Most
of the time, provided you start your apex as SOON AS POSSIBLE, you can take
this at full throttle.

11.21  - Rome Night

Turn 1- gradual right hander, if you're coming off the front straight at full speed,
you may have to pepper the gas slightly mid-way through this corner to keep the exit
to the left.

Turn 2- downhill left, fairly sharp, you may have to tap the brakes briefly, but most
cars can simply cost through it.  Exit to the right to set up for Turn 3.

Turn 3/4- another left into a sweeping right, both turns can be taken essentially under
full throttle, you may have to let off briefly in the centre.

Turn 5- shallow right hander, take at full throttle.

Turn 6- slightly sharper right hander, mostly full throttle but be ready to catch the
car if it starts to drift slightly.

Turn 7- after a long straight, a fairly sharp right hander... Brake briefly and apex, hitting
the rumble strip to set up for turn 8.

Turn 8- sharp left hander, you should've just been getting back on the gas out of Turn 7.  Let off
and brake briefly to nose the car to the left--you may have to drift slightly if the car can do it.

Turn 9- sharp right hander, brake lightly and apex, get back on the gas early and correct as needed--
plenty of room to work.

Turn 10- full speed right hander, keep it to the left on exit.

Turn 11- full speed right hander.

Turn 12- fairly sharp left hander, you can usually coast through it if you apex.

Turn 13- uphill right hander, again you can just let off briefly if you apex it.

Turn 14- downhill into a sharp left hairpin.  Luckily there's a fair bit of runoff
area on the inside of this turn, so you can cut the apex as tight as you like and hop
the rumble strip.  Very fun corner to drift if your car can handle it.

Turn 15- deceptively sharp left hander, brake slightly when you come in from the right
and put your left tires right on the rumble strip.  It's somewhat blind until the exit,
so get a feel for where to get back on the throttle.

Turn 16- light right hander, coast briefly through it at the most.  Keep the exit to the left.

Turn 17- surprising sharp right hairpin.  Brake heavily off the short shoot from turn 16, you have
a bit of runoff area to work with, so drift a little wide if you like.

11.22  - Autumn Ring Mini

A tiny version of Autumn Ring, it contains one hairpin that requires some
skill, but otherwise just a small, fun track.  Excellent 2-player track.

Turn 1- a very fast hairpin with a sandtrap outside that can loop you
quickly.  Keep the speed down and nose the car in to the red/white barrier,
then drift wide... after which, make sure to bring it to the right to set
up for turn 2.

Turn 2- Brake lightly and crank the wheel all the way--you probably won't
slide much, but make sure to keep your speed down so you don't drift up
into the grass.

Turn 3- Immediately after exiting turn 2 you will come to a small straight,
then a sharp uphill right.  Brake generously and start the turn wide to avoid
hitting the grass.  Exit the turn on the far left to set up for 4.

Turn 4- VERY sharp downhill right, often catches people by surprise because
it is initially kinda hard to see.  Brake heavily and nose the car into the
curve--there's a very good chance that you'll slide, no matter what car you
drive.  If you understeer for this turn, you'll hit grass AND wall.

Turn 5/6/7- This entire Triple-S turn can be taken at full speed, apexing
the corners.  Exit Turn 7 to the left to set up for the final turn.

Turn 8- When driving slower or lower horsepower cars, you can usually take
this at full throttle.  Faster cars may have to throttle down slightly to
avoid popping into the grass.  This will exit back out to the main straight.

  			    12.0 PARTS


Sports: Replaces the stock air filter with a better flowing element as well as
low back-pressure muffler systems.  Ideal for turbocharger upgrades and improves
top end torque on naturally aspirated engines.

Semi-Racing: Higher grade air element with urethane sponge filter, combined with
high flow muffler(s).  This improves breathing at high RPM ranges, and is
especially good on larger turbo engines.

Racing: Replaces the air filter with a velocity-stack form and a straight-design
exhaust designed for racing cars.  Reduces low RPM torque due to lack of
backpressure, but allows excellent breathing at high revs.


Sports:  stock brake pads are replaced by carbon metallic types to increase
stopping power and reduce brake fade.  A must on endurance racing cars.

Brake Balance Controller: modifies the metering and proportion valves in the
brake system to allow for changes in front and rear brake power.  See section
13.0 for details.


Computer Chip: this chip changes the ECU's settings to increase power and
efficiency.  This is done by modifying the air/fuel ratio, ignition timing and
other features.

Engine Balancing: engine is disassembled and re-assembled.  Each part is
properly weighed and balanced to specific values, then rebuilt using exact
tolerances. The crankshaft is also modified and balanced.  As a result of the
bottom end rebuild, the engine can now rev higher and thus the rev limiter is
also reset.

Port and Polish: The cylinder head ports are grounded out to increase total
breathing area, as well as rounding off all sharp corners and polished to reduce
drag on the A/F charge.

Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 1: adjusts ignition and valve timing, installs
thinner head gaskets to boost compression.  The exhaust manifold is also swapped
for a higher flowing version.  These modifications increase total horsepower
without sacrificing bottom end torque.

Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 2: higher compression pistons are installed
and the heads are shaved slightly.  The camshaft(s) is/are swapped for higher
lift/duration versions to improve A/F flow into the cylinders.  The valve
springs are also replaced with stronger coils to aid in revving higher, and the
ECU is reset to take affect with these changes.  Low end torque drops off
slightly but high RPM power improves greatly.

Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 3: Complete rebuild of the engine, including
pistons, connecting rods, camshaft(s), valve springs and engine block rebuild
for improved strength.  This modification is designed to give ultimate
performance at high RPM.

Displacement Increase: increases the displacement of the engine, providing more
torque at all RPM ranges.


Sport Transmission: brings gear ratios closer together for faster shifting,
allowing for better downshifts and keeping the engine in its power band during
shifting.  This in turn allows you to keep the car at maximum speed during
corners.  Great for naturally aspirated engines.

Semi-Racing Transmission: tightens up the gear ratios even more, ideal for
highly-tuned cars with a power band that's not quite broad enough.  This is not
as beneficial for engines with very wide power bands (e.g. most of the American
V8 cars.)

Racing Transmission: Replaces each gear, including the final drive gear.  This
upgrade allows fine tuning of each ratio for maximum power output the drive
wheels at all times.

Heavy Duty Single Plate Clutch: shifting is more pronounced and instant,
reducing slippage.

Twin Plate Clutch: dual clutch plates are installed to reduce slippage and
improve acceleration.  Excellent for high powered, high torque engines.

Triple Plate Clutch: three clutch plates are isntalled to boost torque
transmission and increase the shifting speed.

2-Way Limited Slip: the limited slip differential gives the drive wheels the
ability to rotate at different RPM during cornering, but deliver power both when
hitting the straightaway.  This modification engages the limited slip feature
during both deceleration and acceleration.  This will stabilize the vehicle

during hard braking and maintain traction during acceleration.  See section 13.0
for more info.

1.5-Way Limited Slip: maintains full limited slip during acceleration and
reduces it during deceleration to ensure good traction and maintains good turn-
in ability during braking.  Excellent system for all cars.

1-way Limited Slip: ideal for FWD cars, because it gives the limited slip
feature only during acceleration.  While turn in ability is maximized during
braking, it reduces the stability of the car at the same time.  Basically, the
car becomes a handful when slowing for a corner, but works well on exits.

Full LSD Customization: allows full independant adjustment of the LSD for
acceleration and Deceleration.

Sports Flywheel: lightweight chromemoly flywheel that allows the engine to rev
higher due to reduced rotating mass.  This improves acceleration but revs may
drop below the powerband without a close ration gearbox in conjunction.

Semi-Racing Flywheel: even lighter than the Sports type, allowing for greater
revs when matched with a close ratio transmission.

Racing Flywheel: super lightweight that drops revs very quickly from top end.
This improves acceleration and deceleration as a whole, but again the revs may
drop below the powerband unless a close ratio tranny is used.

Carbon Driveshaft: lightweight driveshaft made of a carbon composite, reducing
rotating mass and thereby increasing acceleration, as well as saving some
overall vehicle weight.


Stage 1: installs gaskets, oil cooler, high flow oil pump and uses a compact
turbocharger to make high RPM horsepower, but still maintains low end torque.
This makes for very little turbo lag, so it's excellent for courses with a lot
of up and down revs in tight corners.

Stage 2: built for high RPM torque and decent bottom end power output.  In
addition, a turbo computer, new high flow fuel pump, injectors and other
components are installed.

Stage 3: Built for pure horsepower that can maintain excellent acceleration when
combined with a close ratio transmission to keep the engine in the power band.
The cam is also replaced to help the turbo flow better into the engine, as well
as again replacing the gaskets, fuel pump, oil pump, etc etc...

Stage 4: Designed purely for high RPM output, it sacrifices nearly all low end
torque.  Turbo lag is insane and thus keeping the engine in the power band is

Sports Intercooler: cools the intake air after it's pressurized by the turbo,
allowing for better air density.

Racing Intercooler: Larger capacity intercooler increases cooling ability but
will slightly reduce throttle response.


Sports Kit: good all around kit for any track, allows adjustment of front and
rear gas shocks to 10 damping levels.  Camber angle is also adjustable and ride
height is lowered about 1" front and back.

Semi-Racing Kit: Gas shocks and springs can be adjusted for strength, as well as
very fine ride height adjustments.  Camber can also be modified.

Full Customization: tuning of all suspension components.  Adjustment of damping
levels on shocks and springs is allowed, as well as stiffer anti-roll bars (sway
bars).  Both wheel camber and toe can now be adjusted, and shock bound and
rebound are now adjustable as well.

12.7 TIRES

Sports Tires: better tires improve grip, allowing for better braking,
acceleration and handling. Purchasing these tires allows subsequent tire
servicing as long as you continue to run them.

Hard Racing Slicks: for racing on paved surfaces, ideal for longer races because
they wear much slower. Takes a few laps to warm them up.

Medium Racing Slicks: Made of a special compound that gives good balance between
traction and durability.

Soft Racing Slicks: provides good grip at all times, but not very good for long
races as durability is minimal.

Super Soft Racing Slicks: provides MAXIMUM grip at the cost of durability.  Must
beware during prolonged races when traction goes to the wind.

Real Life Tires: more precise examples of real life tires, extremely difficult
to navigate but provide an ideal simulation.

Dirt Racing Tires: designed for traction sliding on gravel and dirt.  Available
only on certain cars made for rally racing.


Weight Reductions: Removing non-essential components of a car, such as interior,
back seat, inner fenders, etc etc... to improve power/weight ratio and braking

Race Car Modifications: Upgrades the body to a more aerodynamic shell, including
rear wing and front air dam, as well as adding a racecar paint scheme.


Yaw Control System: allows control of the distribution of torque between the
left and right drive wheels.  Increasing this setting allows the car to turn
faster, but but can increase the likelihood of wheel spin.

Active Stability Controller: controls the braking power of all four wheels to
stabilize cornering and reduce traction loss.  The higher the setting however,
the more difficult the car becomes to handle.

TCS Controller: adjusts the setting of the Traction Control System, preventing
wheelspin by reducing power delivery to the wheel that's losing traction.  This
improves overall traction but may reduce straightline speed.

			  13.0 CAR SETUP

Here we'll take a look at setting up your car for optimal performance.

13.1 - SPRINGS

This setting adjusts the stiffness of the springs in the front and rear
suspension. Stiffer springs support weight transfer and body roll much
better and make the ride much more responsive. However, stiff springs can
cause the car to become unstable over rough surfaces. If you have really
stiff suspension when you go off a jump, for example, you may have trouble
keeping the car straight as you land.


Ride Height is the measurement from the bottom of the back and front bumpers to
the ground, given a flat service. The lower the car's centre of gravity sits,
the better it accepts weight transfer, thereby reducing body roll. This makes
for a much stiffer, smoother transfer through the corner and better stability
under braking. However if the ride height is too low, the car will bottom out
due to the suspension's stroke being shortened. This setting goes hand in hand
with Spring Ratio and dampening level.

13.3 - SHOCKS

The higher the bound value, the better the car accepts weight transfer.
Conversely, the higher the rebound value, the faster and harder the suspension
will unload the weight back to the opposite direction.  In general you want a
moderate rebound strength to get the car set straight when exiting the corner,
while not unsettling the chassis in the other direction.  RWD cars in particular
should have stiff rebound values on the front wheels to transfer weight back to
the rear wheels on acceleration.  Bound values for the front wheels on pretty
much all RWD/AWD cars should be pretty heavy to accept weight transfer.

13.4 - CAMBER

Camber is the term used to describe the wheel's angle in relation to the
ground, given a flat surface. Zero (degrees) camber means the wheel is
totally perpendicular to the ground surface. If the wheel is cambered
negatively, it is tilted inwards, so that the top of the wheel is further
into the car. When the weight transfers to the outside of the car in the
corner, a wheel with Zero camber will actually lean outward (positive camber) so
that it rides up onto the sidewall of the tire. This is known as "plowing" or
"rolling". In real life racing, the worst problem with plowing is that it wears
the outside and sidewall of the tire, in extreme cases even tearing chunks out
of the rubber. In addition, you will lose a fair bit of handling in the corner
because the tire will not be using a full contact patch. Most often, the outside
front tire will push, causing an understeering condition due to its loss of

However, if the wheel is cambered negatively a few degrees, it will return to
Zero camber during weight transfer, because all of the weight is leaning it
outward. Cambering allows the tire to return to a perpendicular position and
gain its maximum traction.

NOTE: loss of traction due to tire plowing also creates a more serious
problem; braking power is significantly reduced, since the contact patch of
the rubber that is braking is lessened. This occurs if the tire plows OR if
the tire has too MUCH camber.

-Outside Right Wheel-

       |            \                        /
       |             \                      /
       |              \                    /
       |               \                  /
       |                \                /
 -------------   -------------      -------------

  Zero Camber    Negative Camber    Positive Camber

General Tip: when a wheel is cambered, it will sit on that angle down the
straightaway. Therefore, a RWD car should camber the Front wheels a fair bit to
help in the corners, but you should keep the rear wheel camber minimal so that
you do not lose traction down the straights. Alternately, you don't want much
camber on the front wheels of a FWD car, but you will need a bit since
understeer is a big problem with FWD. Treat 4WD as you would RWD, so that you
can keep speed down the straight but not sacrifice handling.


Stabilizers, often referred to as anti-roll bars or sway bars, do just as the
name suggests--compensate for body/chassis roll.  The stiffer the sway bar is,
the stiffer the relationship between both sides of the suspension is.
Conversely, it also increases the amount of energy transferred from one wheel to
its opposite.  In other words, while it will tighten the car up and reduce
chassis roll, it may upset the chassis and generally make it all squirrely
(one wheel goes over a bump, the other follows).
Stiffer rear sway bars in a RWD car will also improve acceleration because it
balances the drivetrain torque (the rear end torques in a clockwise fashion
looking from the rear, reducing traction on the LR wheel) for maximum traction.


In my opinion, probably the most important all-around settings for handling.
The Sports Brakes and Balance Controller should be your first buys,
ESPECIALLY if you're modding a RWD car. The Balance Controller makes use of
a proportioning valve to adjust the amount of braking force to rear and front
brakes respectively. As most people know, if the back wheels lock up, you slide.
The Balance Controller allows you to reduce the amount of back brakes while
increasing the amount of front brakes. More front brakes will slow you and allow
you to start into your turn much more sharply, while not sliding out by locking
up the back wheels. Alternately, too much front brake will cause the car to

General Tip: usually I keep the front brakes a little bit higher than the
back, so that sliding is a fair bit more controllable. You want SOME back
brakes, so that you have sufficient stopping power. Usually, it's a good
idea to start with both front and back brakes at the same value, then adjust
depending on the handling. Also remember that brake balance can depend a lot on
driving style. Sliding can of course be controlled, and some may prefer to
ALWAYS power slide through a corner--in a case like this, you want more back
brakes. However, too much back brakes will cause the rear wheels to slide and
lose traction. Note that you should keep this setting similar even for FWD cars,
because you will not lose handling provided you brake properly.


These settings affect the shifting range of each gear. Generally, there's
not really that much modification needed in between gears... the Final Gear
Ratio is what's truly important. In relation to Turbo Boost, you can adjust
acceleration. A high final gear ratio results in better acceleration, but
sacrifices top speed. Thus, for races like the High-Speed Challenge, you may
want to lower this number significantly.
Adjusting specific gear range is really only needed when working with Turbo
Chargers. You can adjust seperate gears depending on where you find a speed
loss with Turbo. Typically you can often increase the 1st gear ratio to give a
closer shift to 2nd gear, allowing for slightly better acceleration from start.


Also a very important handling characteristic. Downforce is the term used to
describe the way the air runs over the car. Downforce on certain parts of the
car will push it downward to improve handling. Increasing downforce over the
drive wheels improves traction and stability in the corners. Thus, increased
traction causes better response from that part of the car. Downforce on the
front air dam will increase traction to the front wheels, improving response and
decreasing understeer. Downforce on the rear decreases oversteer.

General Tip: to make handling overall better, use a lot of downforce on both
ends of car, especially RWD to REALLY make it hold a turn. However, it's not
much of a problem to lower downforce on the wing of a FWD car, since it only
really needs traction on the front wheels. If you find yourself losing out a bit
on the straights and you cannot, for some reason, make it up in the corners,
then reduce downforce altogether to get a little more speed.

13.9 TOE

Toe is the angle of the wheels in relation to their opposite. 0.00" toe means
both wheels are parallel with each other and in line with the car.

Toe out pulls the front of the wheels outward from each other, toe in does the opposite.
Toe out on the front wheels allows the outside wheel to take a slightly greater
path around the corner while the inside wheel maintains its original radius.
This reduces the tendancy of the car to oversteer.
Rear toe out performs a similiar feature, allowing the outside rear wheel to
take a more gradual radius around the corner and maintain traction.
As you increase toe out however, you increase the chance that the wheels wil
walk in either direction down the straightaway, and tire wear is also increased.
If the car has an oversteer problem, give it some minor front toe-out, otherwise I
recommend leaving it alone.
If you find you're having trouble keeping a car straight down the straightaway
(uneven surface, lots of hp with no traction, etc), then toe the front wheels in
slightly.  Similar to keeping your toes closer together during skiing, it creates
a wedge effect to keep the wheels in line.


Overall one of the most effective modifications for handling. The "Initial"
setting refers to your acceleration from a standing-stop... to reduce
wheelspin you want this setting fairly low.

The deceleration setting modifies the amount of power delivered to both
wheels when throttling down for a corner.  A high setting will stabilize the
speed of each drive wheel, but will thus make it more difficult to turn
(because there's little difference between the rotation of the inside and
outside wheels).  A low setting will make it much easier to turn-in (because
the the outside wheel is allowed to free-wheel at its own speed), but can
reduce the stability of the car under heavy braking.

The acceleration setting modifies the amount of power that both wheels get
when accelerating out of the corner.  A high setting allows both drive wheels
to receive maximum horsepower and thus best acceleration out of the corner.
However due to the fact that both wheels are spinning at similar speeds, the
car can easily become unsettled and difficult to turn.  A lower setting will
slightly reduce corner exit speed, but will stabilize both drive wheels and
make it easier to complete the turn.

Basically you want to find a happy medium with acceleration and deceleration.
A RWD car will benefit from a low acceleration value, because RWD already gets
excellent traction due to weight transfer... too high a setting will make it
real loose under throttle.  A FWD car is going to benefit from a low deceleration
value, because the less understeer the better.  AWD... well again, a happy medium.


Basically, this controls the ratio of torque between each of the four
wheels.  This allows the car to balance the power delivered to the pavement
more evenly... a moderate setting is a good idea, because too high a
setting with this causes too much power to be delivered to each wheel
during acceleration, increasing the amount of wheelspin.  This is available
only on a limited few AWD cars... in fact, I believe only the Mitsubishi VR4
models. Thanks to Frederick Pellissier <memnoch_td@hotmail.com for help on this


Essentially just a good all-around system.  TCS uses sensors in each of the
drive wheels to detect when wheelspin occurs, and adjusts the throttle
accordingly.  This is available on pretty much every car as far as I know,
and really helps RWD cars that have serious wheelspin on corner exits. It is
a fact that this modification does slightly decrease the potential
acceleration of the car by reducing power to the wheel even during slight
wheel spin, but it's a very minimal difference.


Similar to the Traction Control, but uses brake pulsing to reduce wheelspeed
during oversteering conditions.  However note that this system isn't as efficient
as the TCS, because the higher the setting on the ASC, the less freedom the
car has to adjust its line in the corner.  In other words, it can actually be
pretty effective for drivers that like to stick to a perfect apex through the
corner (particularily for RWD), but it'll be hard to slip upward to compensate
for an understeer, etc... certainly a personal preference, I suggest trying it
out and seeing specifically what setting suits your driving style.


GARAGE TIPS: to cycle through your cars, press up and down... to skip an
entire page down, press Right on the D-pad, and to move an entire page up,
press Left on the D-pad.  You can do a half-assed organizing job with your
garage, as pressing the <START> button over a given car moves that car to
the top of the list.

STATUS SCREEN: The game can only be 98.68% complete, as opposed to 100% (unless
you have an updated version of the Sim Mode from Sony). It is speculated that
the late removal of drag racing mode is accountable for this.
This symbols in the bottom right hand corner tell you about your licences.
Apparently the Green/Yellow symbol that looks sort of like a book is called
the "Kid's Prize", which you get if you come close to getting Bronze in a
test, but just miss it.

The following is a list of price cars gained after winning each race/series in
Sim Mode.  Special Thanks to ZZ of the www.granturismo.com forum message board,
who translated this from a Japanese GT site.


B Licence- Spoon Honda S2000
A Licence- Dodge Concept Car (Copperhead)
I-C Licence- Mitsubishi GTO LM [R]
I-B Licence- Honda CR-X LM [R]
I-A Licence- Mitsubishi FTO LM [R]
S Licence- 1999 Toyota TS020 (GT-One)


Europe League:

Race 1- Castrol Toyota Supra LM [R]
Race 2- Nissan R33 Skyline Xexel [R]
Race 3- Nissan R33 Skyline Kure [R]

Pacific League:

Race 1- Nissan 300ZX GT-S [R]
Race 2- Mazda RX-7 LM [R]
Race 3- HKS Drag Nissan 180SX [R]

World League (Random prize car):

-Calsonic R33 Nissan Skyline [R]
-Castrol-Mugen Acura NSX [R]
-Nissan R390 GT-1 [R]
-1998 Toyota GT-One [R]

Endurance Races (Random prize car):

-Grand Valley- 			Subaru Impreza Rally [R]
	       			1997 Nissan R390 GT-1 [R]

-Apricot Hill- 			Lancia Stratos
 	       			Dodge Viper GTS-R [R]

-Seattle Street Course (Long)- 	Ford GT90 Concept Car [R]
 			       	Ford Escort Rally [R]

-Laguna Seca- 			Toyota Celica Rally [R]
	      			Mitsubishi GTO LM [R]

-Rome City Street Course- 	Toyota Altezza LM [R]
			  	1997 Toyota Corolla WRC [R]

-Trial Mountain- 		Denso-Sard Toyota Supra

-Special Stage R5- 		TVR Cerbera LM [R]
		   		Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Rally [R]


FF Challenge:

Race 1- Mugen Honda Accord SiR-T
Race 2- TOMs T111
Race 3- Mugen Honda Prelude Type-S

FR Challenge:

Race 1- Nissan Sil Eighty
Race 2- Nissan Nismo 270R
Race 3- Mazda RX-7 GT-C

MR Challenge:

Race 1- Toyota TRD2000GT
Race 2- TOMs T020
Race 3- Ford GT40 [R]

4WD Challenge:

Race 1- Subaru Legacy Wagon GT-B
Race 2- Nissan Nismo 400R Preceiding
Race 3- Mines Nissan R32.5 Skyline

Lightweight K-car Cup:

Race 1- Mugen Honda Beat
Race 2- Mazda Demio A-Spec
Race 3- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.2

Global Compact Car Cup:

Race 1- Toyota Vitz F
Race 2- Renault Clio 16V
Race 3- Volkswagon Lupo 1.4

Luxury Sedan Cup:

Race 1- Honda Accord Type-R
Race 2- TRD Sports Toyota Chaser
Race 3- Autech Nissan Skyline GT-R

Musclecar Cup:

Race 1- Plymouth PT Spyder
Race 2- Shelby Cobra Roadster
Race 3- Chrysler Phaeton Concept Car

World Open-Car Cup:

Race 1- Mazda Roadster A-Spec (NB8C)
Race 2- 1997 Toyota MR-S Show Car
Race 3- Dodge Concept Car LM [R]

Historical Car Cup:

Race 1- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.3
Race 2- Lotus Europa
Race 3- 1999 Toyota XYR Show Car

GT Wagon Challenge:

Race 1- Subaru Impreza STi Ver.5
Race 2- Mugen Honda Accord Wagon
Race 3- Nissan Stagea 260RS

80s Sports Car Cup:

Race 1- Mugen Honda Civic Ferio
Race 2- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.3
Race 3- Mugen Honda Civic Type-R
Race 4- Mugen Acura Integra Type-R
Race 5- Nissan R30 Skyline Silhouete Formula [R]

Gran Touring Car Trophy:

Race 1- Nissan Silvia Daisen
Race 2- Castrol-Mugen Acura NSX
Race 3- Nissan Skyline Unisia Jecs

Pure Sports Car Cup:

Race 1- TOMs Angel T01
Race 2- Tommy Kaira ZZ III
Race 3- Tuscan TVR Cerbera Speed 6

Tuned NA No.1 Cup: (random prize car)

-Mazda Roadster C-Spec (NA8C)
-Spoon Honda Civic
-Spoon Acura Integra

Tuned Turbo No.1 Cup: (random prize car)

-Nissan Nismo 400R
-Mines Nissan R33 Skyline
-HKS Drag Nissan R33 Skyline

Gran Turismo All-Stars:

Race 1- Mines Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V
Race 2- Mines Nissan R34 Skyline
Race 3- TVR Speed 12
Race 4- Tommy Kaira ZZ II [R]
Race 5- nissan R390 GT-1 Roadcar

Super Touring Trophy:

Race 1- TRD Toyota 3000GT
Race 2- TOMs Toyota Supra
Race 3- 30th Anniv. Chevrolet Camaro Z28

GT 300 Championship:  (random prize car)

-1999 Wed's Celica GT
-BP Apex Kraft Trueno
-Momo Corse Apex MR2
-Skyline Silhouette Formula (R30)

GT 500 Championship:  (random prize car)

-1999 Cerumo Supra GT
-Arta Zexel GT Skyline
-Takata NSX GT (J) '99
-Taisan STP Viper GT
-cdma One Supra GT

Below is a currently incomplete list of Prize Cars with values, statistics
and races won in.  If there are any additions to this list please contact
Kavadril <kavadril@go-concepts.com> or on ICQ at 36827545.
Special Thanks goes to him for this list.

 Manufacturer merely refers to the place you would take the car to be tuned,
e.g. Acura becomes Honda, Mercury becomes Ford, etc.  The Power-to-Weight Ratio
of the cars is taken BEFORE any modifications are made.  Most of the cars can
drastically improve on this, but I have not taken the time to fully modify all
these cars and take the final reading, so I won't put it on this list.  If no
race number is given (as in the Tuned NA Car races), then the cars listed for
that set of races (or single race) are selected at random as prize cars.

Car Name                  Manufacturer    HP      Weight  Value   Type    Aspiration     HP/Weight        Race
Spoon Sports S2000        Honda           ???     ?,???   12,000    FR        Normal      .????           B License Test
[R]Castrol Supra GT       Toyota          685     2,535  250,000    FR         Turbo      .2702           GT Europe 1
[R]Zexel Skyline GT       Nissan          670     2,601  250,000   4WD         Turbo      .2576           GT Europe 2
[R]Kure R33 GT            Nissan          670     2,601  250,000   4WD         Turbo      .2576           GT Europe 3
[R]Nissan 300ZX GT        Nissan          301     2,601  250,000    FR         Turbo      .2311           GT Pacific 1
[R]Mazda RX-7 LM Edition  Mazda           551     2,116  250,000    FR         Turbo      .2604           GT Pacific 2
[R]HKS Drag 180SX         Nissan        1,011     2,160  250,000    FR         Turbo      .4681           GT Pacific 3
[R]Mugen NSX GT '99       Honda           608     2,601  250,000    MR        Normal      .2338           GT World
Mugen Accord SIR-T        Honda           190     2,865    7,000    FF        Normal      .0663           FF Car 1
Tom's T111                Toyota          172     2,248    5,500    FF        Normal      .0765           FF Car 2
Mugen Prelude Type-S      Honda           211     2,888    7,500    FF        Normal      .0731           FF Car 3
Sileighty                 Nissan          201     2,579    2,000    FR         Turbo      .0779           FR Car 1
Nismo 270R                Nissan          264     2,733   10,000    FR         Turbo      .0966           FR Car 2
Mazdaspeed RX-7 GT-C      Mazda           293     2,821   11,250    FR         Turbo      .1039           FR Car 3
TRD 2000GT                Toyota          266     2,843    7,500    MR         Turbo      .0936           MR Car 1
Tom's T020                Toyota          230     2,689    7,500    MR        Normal      .0855           MR Car 2
[R]GT40 Race Car          Ford            492     2,200  250,000    MR        Normal      .2236           MR Car 3
Legacy Wagon GT-B         Subaru          274     3,152    5,150   4WD         Turbo      .0869           4WD Car 1
Nismo 400R Preceiding     Nissan          393     3,417   20,000   4WD         Turbo      .1150           4WD Car 2
Mine's R32.5 Skyline GT-R Nissan          618     3,306   17,500   4WD         Turbo      .1869           4WD Car 3
Mazda Demio A Spec.       Mazda            99     1,807    3,750    FF        Normal      .0548           Lightweight 1
Mugen CR-X II             Honda           155     2,204    2,500    FF        Normal      .0703           Lightweight 2
Mugen Beat                Honda            61     1,675    2,000    MR        Normal      .0364           Lightweight 3
Vitz F '99                Toyota           67     1,807    2,320    FF        Normal      .0371           Compact Car 1
Clio 16V                  Renault         106     2,414    5,595    FF        Normal      .0439           Compact Car 2
Lupo 1.4                  Volkswagen       73     1,904    4,172    FF         Turbo      .0383           Compact Car 3
Accord Type-R             Honda           207     2,962   10,000    FF        Normal      .0699           Luxury Car 1
TRD Chaser X30            Toyota          312     3,240   10,000    FR         Turbo      .0963           Luxury Car 2
Nismo GT-R 4-Door         Nissan          293     3,439   12,500   4WD         Turbo      .0852           Luxury Car 3
PT Spyder                 Plymouth        221     2,700   25,000    MR        Normal      .0819           Muscle Car 1
Cobra 427 '67             Shelby          423     2,345   75,000    FR        Normal      .1804           Muscle Car 2
Phaeton                   Dodge           502     3,527   25,000    FR        Normal      .1423           Muscle Car 3
MX-5 Miata A Spec.        Mazda           141     2,292    7,000    FR        Normal      .0615           Convertible 1
MR-S Show Version         Toyota          135     2,138   12,500    MR        Normal      .0631           Convertible 2
[R]Concept Car LM Edition Dodge           526     1,984  125,000    MR        Normal      .2651           Convertible 3
Mugen CR-X III            Honda           164     2,513    3,000    FF        Normal      .0653           Historic Car 1
Europa                    Lotus           125     1,609   20,000    MR        Normal      .0777           Historic Car 2
XYR '99	(Celica)          Toyota          182     2,513   12,500    FF        Normal      .0724           Historic Car 3
Impreza STi Ver. V        Subaru          283     2,888    6,300   4WD         Turbo      .0980           Station Wagon 1
Mugen Accord Wagon        Honda           197     3,152    6,250    FF        Normal      .0625           Station Wagon 2
Stagea 260RS by Nismo     Nissan          343     3,791   12,000   4WD         Turbo      .0905           Station Wagon 3
Mugen Civic               Honda           164     2,491    5,750    FF        Normal      .0658           80's Sports 1
[R]Mugen NSX GT           Honda           608     2,601  250,000    MR        Normal      .2338           Grand Touring 2
[R]Unisa GT-R GT          Nissan          702     2,601  250,000   4WD         Turbo      .2699           Grand Touring 3
Tom's Angel T01           Toyota          155     1,543   12,500    MR        Normal      .1005           Pure Sports 1
Tuscan Speed 6            TVR             361     2,336  125,000    FR        Normal      .1545           Pure Sports 3
Spoon Civic Type-R        Honda           212     1,807    7,500    FF        Normal      .1173           Tuned NA Car
Spoon Integra Type-R      Honda           259     1,984    9,500    FF        Normal      .1305           Tuned NA Car
MX-5 Miata B Spec.        Mazda           165     2,160    3,000    FR        Normal      .0764           Tuned NA Car
Nismo 400R                Nissan          393     3,417   30,000   4WD         Turbo      .1150           Tuned Turbo Car
Mine's R33 Skyline GT-R   Nissan          618     3,395   18,750   4WD         Turbo      .1820           Tuned Turbo Car
HKS R33 Drag GT-R         Nissan        1,011     2,821  250,000   4WD         Turbo      .3584           Tuned Turbo Car
Mine's Lancer Evo. V      Mitsubishi      413     2,380   13,750   4WD         Turbo      .1735           GT All-Stars 1
Mine's R34 Skyline GT-R   Nissan          618     3,395   20,000   4WD         Turbo      .1820           GT All-Stars 2
Speed 12                  TVR             807     2,094  500,000    FR        Normal      .3854           GT All-Stars 3
[R]ZZ-II                  Tommy Kaira     588     2,248  250,000    MR         Turbo      .2616           GT All-Stars 4
R390 GT-1 Road Car '97    Nissan          351     2,204  250,000    MR         Turbo      .1593           GT All-Stars 5
Tom's Supra               Toyota          309     3,328   13,750    FR         Turbo      .0928           Super Touring
Camaro Z28 30th Anniv Ed  Chevrolet       285     3,441    7,000    FR        Normal      .0828           Super Touring
TRD 3000GT                Toyota          318     3,328   14,250    FR         Turbo      .0956           Super Touring
[R]Momo MR2 GT            Toyota          374     2,843  125,000    MR         Turbo      .1316           GT 300
[R]Arta GT-R GT           Nissan          702     2,201  250,000   4WD         Turbo      .3189           GT 500


Well, I appear to be 100% done arcade mode... basically, get all your
licences in Sim Mode, and the Arcade disc will recognize them and open up most
of the tracks.  Then, you beat each track on the Difficult setting (class makes
no difference) and it will open up its reverse track, and unlock either a Rally
Car or an S-Class Car.  As you progress, you'll open up more tracks.  Still no
Drag Racing sightings.

Note: Motorports Park appears to be a small go kart track, and can only be
played in Time Trial mode.

Here's an extensive car list for Arcade Mode, including the tracks required to
win on to gain the cars (if applicable).  Special Thanks to Paul Hopkins
<tigger@cowtown.net> for this great list.

S Class


Aston Martin V8 Vantage - 5. Seattle Short Course
Dodge Viper GTS - 8. Seattle Circuit
Jaguar XKR Coupe - 12. Apricot Hill Speedway
Lister Storm - 20. Deep Forest Raceway
Renault Clio Sport V6 24v - 3. High Speed Ring
RUF CTR 2 - 9. Rome Circuit
Shelby Corba Daytona Coupe - 19. Test Course
TVR Tuscan Speed Six - 18. Autumn Ring
Vector M12 - 14. Clubman Stage Route 5
Venturi Atlantique 400 GT - 6. Rome Short Course

A Class

Chevrolet Corvette Coupe
Ford Mustang SVT Cobra
Lotus Elise Sport 190
Mazda RX-7 Type RS
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR
Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec
Subaru Legacy B4 RSK
Tommy Kaira ZZ-S Coupe

B Class

Alfa Romeo 156 2.5 V6 24v
Audi TT
BMW 328i Saloon
Fiat Coupé 2.0 20v Turbo
Honda S2000
Lancia Delta HF integrale
Mercedes-Benz CLK 320 Sports
Plymouth Pt Spyder
Toyota Altezza RS200

C Class

Citroën Xsara 1.8i 16v Exclusive
Daihatsu Move Aerodown Custom
Ford Mercury Cougar
MGF 1.8ivvc
Opel Tigra 1.6i
Peugeot 206 GTi
Mini Cooper 1.3i
Suzuki AltoWorks RS/Z
Volkswagen Golf GTi

Rally Car

Citroën Saxo
Ford Focus
Lancia Delta HF integrale
Mazda Protegé
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V
Nissan Pulsar GTi-R
Opel Tigra Ice Race Car
Peugeot 206
Renault Mégane
Subaru Impreza
Subaru Impreza 99
Toyota Celica GT-Four 261hp
Toyota Corolla

Diahatsu Stòria X4 - 2. Midfield Raceway
Ford Escort - 16. Grand Valley Speedway
Lancia Strato's - 15. Grand Valley East Section
Mini Cooper 127 MK 1 - 7. Red Rock Valley Speedway
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III - 13. Trial Mountail Circuit
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV - 4. Super Speedway
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI - 21. Rome-Night
Peugeot 306 - 1. Tahiti Road
Toyota Celica GT-Four 251hp - 11. Laguna Seca Raceway
Toyota Celica GT-Four 295hp - 17. Special Stage Route 5
Volkwagen Golf - 10. Grindelwald


Here's the scoop.  I'm gonna start adding strategies for each course as well as updating the
car setup section frequently.  However I want to expand this to include specific car strategies,
so here's what I'd like: send me in a "complete" review of a car that you enjoy driving or
have substantial knowledge of.  Include its specs (don't get too detailed, hp/weight, basic
suspension etc will be enough), its strengths and weaknesses, what modifications do it best,
what kind of driving style it takes to run it, your best suspension/gearing setups for that
car, and even some history of the real life version.  Note that I'll be doing most of the
musclecars myself to give you some examples, so the extra musclecar reviews may not
be posted, at least not yet.  LET'S HERE EM!

Here's what we got so far:


  I've gotten E-mail from people asking me how to increase the max speed
even further after getting fully tuning-up their car, and after putting
the gear settings to their lowest because some cars seem to only be able
to go up to 220 MPH or so. What I'm about to tell you will make the
car's max speed exceed the amount you think is the max possible.
  Well, go to the Machine Test and
choose 'Max Speed' to test your car's max speed. Go to the Settings, go
to the Gears Settings, and put all of the gears to their lowest and
start the test. See your car's max speed and if you want to increase it
even further, quit and go back to the Settings. Push [Start] while
highlighting one of the gears to return it to its default settings, and
change the gears to their lowest settings again. Take the test again and
the max speed should have either increased or decreased.
  Now quit and go back to the Settings once again. You see the option
all the way at the bottom of the menu with the gears? Well, select it
and move it to the right a few, then push X or O to accept. Then push
[Start] and it'll return to its default number. Go to the gears and make
them the lowest possible. Take the test again and the max speed should
have increased.

Note: Don't do this for all cars since the higher your max speed, the
      less acceleration you have. You can also only do this for the
      final gear afterwards

Dan GC <lbdangc@aol.com>



This is to answer one of the most frequently asked questions about
turbo-aspirating cars in Gran Turismo. The question usually goes something
like this: "Hey, I just bought a level 4 turbo kit for my Nissan R32
Skyline, bringing it to 600+ HP. But now the &@*%ing thing won't
accelerate like it used to. What gives?"

Here's an explanation: Each turbo kit progressively enlarges the turbines
in the turbocharger. Enlarging these parts is a mixed blessing: A larger
turbine means more power can be generated, increasing acceleration (in
higher RPMs) and top speed. There is a downside to this: the larger the
turbine gets, the more energy it takes to get it spinning from a

Thus, equipping a level 3 or 4 turbo kit in GT 2 will dramatically
increase overall power in high RPMs, but they make the car accelerate
unacceptably slow in low RPMs. This is called "turbo lag."

If you have a car in GT 2 which is experiencing turbo lag problems, and
you need to start it up from stationery; then the best way to start up is
to shift to neutral, accelerate to near-redline levels, then shift to
first gear. If you're using auto-shift, then try setting the parking break
(that's the triangle button) until the engine has revved up. This does
not completely work around the problem, but it is useful if you ever have
to start up again after crashing in the middle of a race.

Note that some turbo-aspiration cars, such as the Mitsubishi 3000GT Twin
Turbo, do not experience the same magnitude of turbo lag-related problems
as other turbo-aspiration cars. These cars actually have two turbochargers
rather than one, which suppresses turbo lag while delivering the same
power benefits. This is because the two smaller turbines take less power
to start up than a large one, and working parallel, deliver the same
amount of power.

Nick Zitzmann <nickzman@eskimo.com>



I've been noticing that an adjustment of 5-15, up to 50 or so on the fully custom
diff-accelerator, allows for virtually no lag between gears, and furthermore, allows
almost rocket-like acceleration all of the time... at the expense of handling.  What's
nice is that the decel value set at 15 or 16 allows quick wind-down, depending the turn,
car...each car responds differently and depending on the track. But the push can be
significant with the right track, conditions....

LSD seems to work better on a variety of cars vs. ASC, or whatever the
The initial setting is the starting line/take off setting.  You
want traction so set it low as you need the gear to slip in order to get
torque.  Any super close ratio/small car, less accel diff, big cars, you can
get away with more... kinda.  Spinning occurs, then you need to look at the
ASC/TSC...or lowering the gear ratio.
In fact, everytime I make the gearing taller, I add more diff.  It does make a real
difference, getting rid of the loss in accel that raising it to a taller ratio would.
On a closer ratio, less.  On the high-powered turbo cars, 35-40 works well, but it
really depends on the track's traction and corners.

Jeff Glotzer <schmenker@hotmail.com>



I've been using the ASC and TSC, and idfferential settings for GT2, on a
daily basis now, and I'm recommending the ASC for all cars, except certain
AWD cars that don't really need it; it may also help depending on your
driving style.  If you find your car, such as the SLK 230, needs a little
more traction to avoid spinning out, the ASC is a wonderful stabilizer
under all conditions.  Personally I notice no appreciable acceleration
changes with the highest 101 setting.  If you feel that some cars such as
powerful FR carsa re not responding as best they can, then add TCS to your
settings.  Try using a higher (i.e. 10-25) setting, and spin outs are
minimized while retaining most of the acceleration response.  If you notice
that at a higher setting your acceleration in the powerband is declining,
then try using a slight 5-10 pt increase in teh differential setting,
another modification I use on every car in the 5,35-45,15 breakdown.  I
find if you tall up the gear ratio overall, teh diff setting can be set to
10 units higher if needed for faster acceleration.  In fact, it's a
wonderful way to balance your car, without finding yourself getting beat
on the top end by other cars (like that'll happen on arcade or sim modes-
this game is way too easy!!).

Jeff Glotzer <schmenker@hotmail.com>



One of about the only two cars that would be worth the $500,000, would
have to be the Volkswagen Beetle GT. I personally have used it in every race
that the car is legal in. The secret to the "bug" is that it has the VW
Syncros AWD ( some say that Audi's Quattro is the same but it is highly
diffrent ) When you purchase this car you get a 2100 pound car that has 449
bhp. That is 4.68 pounds per bhp, when you compare the same priced Ford
(DORF ) GT-40 ( 7.21 pounds per bhp ), it is worth to buy an AWD, 449 BHP car
that you can use in just about any race ( even in rally races, if your good
enough ).  Endurance races with this car are great. The Syncros was designed
to save tires due to the fact that it helps the car out of the corner and
that it has ( in really life , but very little if the car is setup properly )
no wheel spin....
If any one has any thoughts about my opinion on why you should use this car in
GT2 please feel free to email me.

Joe Hutchings <Cart0199@aol.com>



Price:  $1,000,000
Worth It?:  Oh hell yeah.
Here's the scoop.  This car comes with 591 horsepower, and weighs in at a
startlingly low 1,984 lbs.  That's good for a power-to-weight ratio of
nearly .3  But, it doesn't stop there.  Unlike a lot of the high-priced
GT-class racecars, the Toyota GT-One Road Car can be upgraded.
The addition of a level 4 Turbine Kit (a mere $74,000) rockets the car's
horsepower to 975!  What does that mean you ask?  Well, aside from boosting
the power-to-weight ratio from .3 to .5, it means that this car has STUPID
FAST (technical term) acceleration.  With the settings I use when driving
mine, the car gets terrible acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, and only
average acceleration in 3rd gear.  Where this car really shines however,
is in 4th through 6th gear.  The car climbs the Tachometer in 6th gear like
most cars do in 2nd.  The car goes from 100 to 200 mph in an unbelievable
8 seconds.  This is faster than a lot of cars go 0-100!  All in all, this
is one of the best cars in the game.  It's just too fast in the straights
for the other cars to catch it.  And with a few liberal driving techniques,
such as using the handbrake to induce rear-end slip, it can even be made to
handle like a dream.

Kavadril Gildoron <kavadril@go-concepts.com>


CAR REVIEW: 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z-28

Here's the first of my own car reviews, and I wouldn't mind if everyone's
submissions were similar to this in format (though I'm not expecting this
kind of length, unless you want to ;)

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Camaro Z-28
Year: 1969
Dealer Price: 37,420
Drivetrain: Front Engine/RWD
Engine: Cast-iron Overhead Valve Smallblock V8
Displacement: 5.7 litres (350 cubic inches)
Horsepower: 299 hp @ 4800 rpm (that's a crock, it's still making
	    power at 6800)
Torque: 379 ft-lbs @ 3200 rpm
Curb Weight: 3395 lbs (this is a little overweight, but close)
Front Suspension: Unequal length double wishbone
Rear Suspension: Leaf-suspended

History: The 67-69 Camaro is arguably the most popular incarnation of the famous
pony car, and with the Z-28 package available, why shouldn't it be?  Chevrolet
built the Camaro specifically as competition for Ford's pony car, the Mustang,
but in addition, they needed a car to compete against the Mustang in SCCA
Trans-Am racing as well; thus the Z-28 was born.  Because of the 305 cubic-inch
limit in the Trans-Am class, Chevrolet mated a 283 crank with a 327 block to
produce 302 cubic inches of displacement (see below about this engine).
Installing a high lift, high duration cam along with an aluminum high rise
intake mounted to a 750 cfm Holley 4 barrel, this 302 was waaaay underrated
at 290 horsepower for the street, in actuality making approx. 400 horsepower,
and able to rev well to 7000 rpm.  An optional Cross-Ram Intake with twin
Holley 4-bbl Carburators was later offered in 1969.
This engine dropped in the relatively lightweight f-body platform with 4-wheel
disc brakes, limited-slip differntial and road racing suspension made it a
force to be feared both in a straight line and in the corners.

On the drag strip, the Z-28 with the high-revving 302 was capable of
consistant 14-second flat E.T.s on skinny 7" bias plys with next to no
traction.  Bolting on a set of modern radials to a bone stock '69 Z-28
rockets it to low 13s in the 1/4... not bad for a 60s smallblock pony car
designed for road racing.
(I know what you're thinking, go try it in the 0-400m and you'll likely
run a low 15 second E.T. when stock... just remember, it's a videogame, not
real life ;)... and besides, it's difficult to get a good launch even with
the analog throttle).

This formula obviously was a success, as the Camaro not only sold in record numbers
on the street and, more importantly, had amazing success in SCCA.  Mark Donahue and
Roger Penske gained victory three times in the 1967 season during the Z-28's
"break-in" period, then went on to claim the championship in 1968 with a record 10
out of 13 race wins.  Their domination continued with the Camaro, winning the
championship again in 1969.

First off, I'm very pissed off at Sony for not being accurate with this Camaro. The
Z-28 option in the 1967-69 Camaros used the 302 smallblock, and Sony has seen fit
to drop in a 350 (5.7 l) smallblock instead.  The 350 smallblock was only available
in the 1969 Camaro (not the Z-28) with a 2-bbl carb making 255 horsepower.
If they strive to give us the classic cars we want, why can't they be
accurate?!  Maybe if the designers weren't so damn biased towards Japanese
manufacturers... but I digress...

Gran Turismo 2, I'm happy to say, has faithfully translated the Z-28 (minus the
accuracy of the engine) to be a competitor just as it was in the 60s.  When
fully modded, the Z-28 runs close to 440 horsepower from its naturally aspirated
smallblock, and weighs in at a scant 2899 lbs.  This gives it more than
enough speed to hang with a lot of the other "mid-card" racecars, though
it's unfortunately not in the league with the GT or LM cars. It's also
rather unfortunate that the designers seemed to overlook the potential of
this engine, when smallblock Chevy's of this type have been seen to make
over 700 horsepower in real life without the aid of a blower or nitrous.

The Z-28, as it was back in 1969, is already a decent handler in stock form, even by
today's standards.  But, as it was in 1969, the main problem with its
handling is its pathetic 7" wide bias ply tires.  So if you're looking to
remain in basically stock form and just have some fun with this Camaro, the
only thing it's in serious need of is a set of tires.  I recommend slicks
of course ;).
The Z-28's Double wishbone front suspension is sturdy and up to the task, one of the main
reasons it's still used today in many sports cars, including the Corvette.  After fully
modding the Suspension, the Camaro gets a much needed drop in ride height among other
things, but the only serious suspension tuning tip you need for this car is to set the
rebound on the rear shocks quite low, and the front quite high to get rocketing
acceleration out of the corner.  Other than that, consider whether or not you want real
stiff suspension, it's more of a driver preference if you don't mind hanging by a hair
around uneven surfaces.  But with the properly tuned suspension this car will have only a
hint of a loose condition on corner exit, with excellent braking characteristics thanks to
its 4-wheel disc brakes.

Probably the best thing about this translation of the Z-28, other than it's obviously
beautiful timeless styling, is how excellently Sony duplicated the sound of the 350
(althought it's supposed to be a 302 dammit!) smallblock.  With exhaust
mods, the excellent thrumb of the engine at around 6000 rpm is true music
to the ears.



Spring Rate: 		14.3 in-lb		12.4 in-lb
Ride Height:		97			101
Shock Bound:		8			6
Shock Rebound:		7			4
Camber:			3.2 degrees		0.5 degrees
Toe:			+0.05			0.0
Stabilizer:		7			6
Brakes:			19			12

Notes: this setup is best suited for my driving style, which is a
hard-entrance controlled loose condition.  The Z-28 with these settings is
an excellent braker and, if braking heavy and entering the apex, can rocket
out of the corner with best possible speed (thanks to the shock settings
allowing for excellent rear weight transfer).  The car will get naturally loose
on its own without throttle, but it is a controlled condition during corner entrance.
The downside to this setup is that the car will tend to get more loose on serious throttle
during corner exits.  I am currently fooling with the LSD to lessen this while not reducing
acceleration.  This will be updated.

John Culbert <tigeraid@fighters.net>



Make: Ford
Model: [R]GT40
Year: 1966
Dealer Price: 500,000
Drivetrain: Mid-Engine/RWD (MR)
Engine: V8 -
Displacement: 4736cc
Horsepower: 305 hp @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 327.6 lb-ft @ 4200 rpm
Curb Weight: 2200 lbs
Front Suspension: Double Wishbone
Rear Suspension: Multi-link

  This car has great handling and it's pretty difficult to spin out with
it. It's max. speed and acceleration are pretty above average and
handling is above average. It rules on the Red Rock Valley course and
similar courses. It's a car for beginners since it doesn't require much
work to turn corners. Since it's an MR, brake early, turn, and tap
acceleration while turning to make shift weight to the back. Or you can
just brake and turn simultaneously to cause your car to oversteer and
fishtail, but then you countersteer to stop the fishtailing. After you
master the turning with this car, you'll soon find out you don't need to
brake much with this car.
  All you need to do is change its tires to Hard in the front, Soft in
the back to reduce oversteering. When you start fishtailing, release
acceleration and countersteer, otherwise you'll still fishtail and might
spinout while trying to countersteer while holding acceleration.

Dan GC <lbdangc@aol.com>



Make: Ford
Model: [R]GT40 Race Car
Year: 1969
Dealer Price: N/A
Drivetrain: Mid-Engine/RWD (MR)
Engine: - -
Displacement: ----
Horsepower: 492 hp @ 6500 rpm
Torque: 449.8 lb-ft @ 5000 rpm
Curb Weight: 2200 lbs
Front Suspension: N/A
Rear Suspension: N/A

    You thought the [R]GT40 was a great car, wait until you look at
this! You have to change it's transmission (decrease the final gear by a
lot) to win in the Gran Turismo All Stars races. It's max. speed is
above average, once you decrease the final gear, acceleration is above
average, and handling is above average. It rules on corners-a-plenty
courses. Everything like in the [R]GT40 applies to this car, except this
car has better acceleration and max speed, but just as good handling.
Remember, though, the faster a car is going, the more understeer there
is, so you have to brake earlier.

Dan GC <lbdangc@aol.com>



Make: Mitsubishi
Model: [R]FTO LM Edition
Year: N/A
Dealer Price: N/A
Drivetrain: 4WD
Engine: - DOHC
Displacement: ----
Horsepower: 549 hp @ 8500 rpm
Torque: 359.4 lb-ft @ 6000 rpm
Curb Weight: 2050 lbs
Front Suspension: N/A
Rear Suspension: N/A

  This car is one of the best EVER! At least in my opinion, that is.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, this car has above average
acceleration and max speed, and has wonderful handling and stability.
This car rules on virtually all courses, as long as it has a lot of
corners. It might not be able to always beat a [R]GT40 Race Car, though,
but that's another story. You can use the [R]FTO LM Edition to race in
any of the Gran Turismo All Stars, GT 300 Championship, or GT 500
Championship races. Even the GT League races, this car rules. You can
even use this car in Rally races, the only car it can't beat is the
Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Version rally car, it gets a beating against
it, on the Pikes Peak rally races. You can win virtually almost any race
with this car, just put Soft tires in the front and back and you're set
to go. No extra tuning is needed.

Dan GC <lbdangc@aol.com>



The Dodge Concept Car LM is the best car for GT2. It is quite useful in the
endurance races, it saves tires to no end. When using the super soft tire
compound i could get 20 laps @ Laguna Seca Raceway. When you win the car, it
is pretty much set up all you have to do is lower the car to it's minimum,
change the wing angles as high as they go, and adjust the stiffiner bars ( 2
of them ) to 7. I have pumped out laps in  the 1 minute 10 second range (
that is when the tires are warm and are still in the green ). When tire wear
sets in, the car will still put out laps in the 1:20's and seeing that the
cars in the 200 mile race use hard compound tires and turn laps in the
1:25's, it's the perfect combo to win lots of endurance races. I have used it
for 5 of the 7 endurance races, won by 6 or 7 laps average. Flaws this car
has though; top end in the 180's ( that is the maximum gearing you can give
the car until it can't accellerate very good ) handling is excellent but
over-correcting will send you all over the road, you can't get it in any
other color ( i need it in black and some racing stickers ), engine
underpowered ( in my standing ) it has 541 bhp... but it needs 600 to get 200
mph easier.

Joe Hutchings <Cart0199@aol.com>

		        17.0 GAMESHARK CODES
Special Thanks to RaysurX <raysurx@home.com> and Luke_Skywalker from the granturismo.com
MessageBoard for the codes below.  These codes are for the North American version of Gran
Turismo 2 ONLY, using GameShark 2.0 or above. USE THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK.




-Unlock RALLY Tracks: 800F3656 0009
-Unlock 2p tracks including Rally Tracks that *Street* cars can race on: 800f3658 001c
-Unlock Rally Tracks for 2 Player: 800f365a 0006
Works only with Dual Shock Analog controllers. Press R3 (right analog stick) to activate at
any point after mid-range RPM in 1st gear: D00A9228 4000
					   800A99DE 0020
					   D00A9228 4000
					   800A99DA 0020
-Unlock Ending Credits: 80052580 0001
		  	80052594 0001
Once you enter the "View Credits" screen, disable off the code or the FMV will lock up.

-Hood View w/Joker Commands: D00A9228 0001
			     801FFA92 0003
			     D00A9228 0002
			     801FFA92 0000

Press UP on the D-pad to enable, Press DOWN on the D-pad to disable.  You must not be pressing
any other buttons when enabling or disabling the jokers.


-99,999,999 Credits: 801D0FC8 E0FF
		     801D0FCA 05F5
-Stop Race Timer (e.g. Licence Tests):
Press up on the D-pad during a race/test to activate. Pressing any other button at the same
time will nullify the action: D00A9228 0001
			      8002F810 0000
			      D00A9228 0001
			      80046E84 0000

BETWEEN EACH LICENSE SET. For example, activate the B-license codes first.  Then save, discard
the B-license codes and enter A-license codes, then save, etc...

801CC760 0400
801CC804 0400
801CC8A8 0400
801CC94C 0400
801CC9F0 0400
801CCA94 0400
801CCB38 0400
801CCBDC 0400
801CCC80 0400
801CCD24 0400

801CC0F8 0400
801CC19C 0400
801CC240 0400
801CC2E4 0400
801CC388 0400
801CC42C 0400
801CC4D0 0400
801CC574 0400
801CC618 0400
801CC6BC 0400

801CBB34 0400
801CBBD8 0400
801CBC7C 0400
801CBD20 0400
801CBDC4 0400
801CBE68 0400
801CBF0C 0400
801CBFB0 0400
801CC054 0400

801CB428 0400
801CB4CC 0400
801CB570 0400
801CB614 0400
801CB6B8 0400
801CB75C 0400
801CB800 0400
801CB8A4 0400
801CB948 0400
801CB9EC 0400
801CBA90 0400

801CADC0 0400
801CAE64 0400
801CAF08 0400
801CAFAC 0400
801CB050 0400
801CB0F4 0400
801CB198 0400
801CB23C 0400
801CB2E0 0400
801CB384 0400

801CA758 0400
801CA7FC 0400
801CA8A0 0400
801CA944 0400
801CA9E8 0400
801CAA8C 0400
801CAB30 0400
801CABD4 0400
801CAC78 0400
801CAD1C 0400

	     		   18.0 RESOURCES

The best resource for compiling this information is the Gran Turismo Message
board, at http://www.granturismo.com... Thanks especially to HondaKid86, and Jaz
Rignall of IGN (www.ign.com) for posting some real informative documents on GT2.
Also thanks to Tony Lau <tonylau_pk@yahoo.com>, game-vamp, Filtered Blue,
Berra Patrice and Kevin Knipp <KKnipp@yaleenforcement.com> for additional


http://www.videogames.com (189 current screen shots)
http://cars.drip.org (my page :P)

   			   19.0 CREDITS

Special thanks go out to all the members of #cars, who have helped spread the
word about the problem of ricing cars (and I don't mean japanese cars, rather
any car that has that kind of tasteless, useless crap done to it--see
http://cars.drip.org/rice.html for the PROPER explanation of this sad
phenomenon), as well as Jason <cka> Jamieson, Ryan <skee> Jackson, Tyler
<viper600> Stewart, Jove <TheDrip> Malcolm and Sam <lagunaS3> Reckzin for Gran
Turismo competition, and GT2 competition to come ;).


This FAQ and all my others can be accessed at the following sites:


Wanna talk? You can contact me on IRC (Internet Relay Chat) as tigeraid, #cars,
#fighters.net, #vfhome, #tekken and #capcom.


"I said it before and I'll say it again--democracy simply doesn't work!"

                                          -Kent Brockman, the Simpsons


I'd like to take a short moment to speak my thoughts on the tragedy that befell
Greg Moore at Fontana on October 31st of 1999.  He was killed in a crash early
on in the race and pronounced dead 90 minutes later.

Greg Moore was a fellow Canadian racecar driver, and though I never had the
privilage of meeting him in real life, I have been aquainted with his team's PR
reps before.  Certainly I don't mean this in an egotisical way, but being a
Canadian racer as well I feel a great loss almost as if he was a personal friend
or family.

This just goes to show that there are some serious problems with the design of
these cars.  In 4 years, three drivers and five spectators have been killed in
accidents during races in the CART series.  This to me shows that's there's
really something wrong with the direction CART is taking.  I race oval on a
weekly basis and never exceed speeds of 80 mph (because it's a 1/4 mile oval,
very small--my car's certainly capable of faster).  At these speeds, our racing
is close, competitive and very fun to watch.  My point is, why the hell do
series like CART have to go so fast? It doesn't make it any more exciting to
watch, it's the competition that counts--NASCAR restricts speeds for safety
reasons and hell, stockcars like these and mine have full bodies and rollcages.
Dale Earndhart, at Daytona two years ago, flipped his car 20 ft in the air,
rolled twice hitting the fence on the front stretch.  He got out of the car on
his own, walked to the ambulance, and later, after realizing the engine still
fired, put 4 new tires on it, taped it up and went out and continued the race.
Open wheel cars are just plain too dangerous and feeble to be racing at these
tremendous speeds.  Despite the fact that designs of these cars have advanced
greatly since the old days, with the cockpit seperating from the rest of the
shattered car during impact, it's still far too dangerous.  It's simple physics-
-the closer the rest of the car is around the driver, the more energy of impact
the driver's body will absorb.  The cockpit is very small and tight around the
driver without any frame or tubing to absorb the impact, meaning the walls of
the cockpit and the driver's body still takes most of the impact.  This design
seriously needs to be rethought.

I know I'm rambling and this document is supposed to be for Gran Turismo 2.  I'm
just so sad at the loss of who is arguably the 2nd best racecar driver our
country has ever produced, next to Gilles Villeneuve, and quite possibly was on
his way to being THE best.  But at the same time, I'm incredibly frustrated and
angry that open wheel racing has not taken steps to improve safety, only
increasing speed.

Rest in Peace, Greg Moore, you will be sorely missed by your friends, fans, and
fellow racers.


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