hide results

    FAQ/Walkthrough by IKelley

    Version: 1.0 | Updated: 01/13/06 | Search Guide | Bookmark Guide

     MMMMM   MMMMM  MM     MM                       MMMM    MMMM   M       MMMMMM
     MMMMM    MMMMM MM                    OF                MMMM   MM        MMMMM
     MMMMM    MMMMM                                                MM         MMMM
     MMMMMM  M      MMM     MMM  M MMM   M  MMM  M MMMM M MMM MMM   MMMM       MMM
     MMMMMM         MMM     MMM    MMM      MMM    MMMM M MMM  MMM    MMMM   MMMMM
     MMMM           MMM     MMMM   MMM MMM  MMMM   M MMMM MMM  MMM       MMMMMMMM
     MMM            MMM     MMM    MMM  MM  MMM    M  MMM MMM  MMM        MMMMMM
     MM             MMM  M  MMM  M  MM MMM  MMM  M M  MMM MMM MMM          MMM
                                  KNIGHTS OF LEGEND
                                  January 13, 2006
                                    Version 1.0
                                   By: Ian Kelley
                             Email: masakadokou@yahoo.com
    This Document is Copyright 2003, 2004 by Ian Kelley. All Rights Reserved. It is
    protected by US and International Copyright Law. It is for private and personal
    use only, and cannot be reprinted in or reproduced in part or in entirety
    without the express written consent of the author. This document is intended to
    be free and may not be used for any sort of commercial venture, be that selling
    it, giving it away as a promotion, or making otherwise making available for
    profit. It may not be used or distributed by any website, organization, or
    individual, nor may it be used as a refererence or altered by anyone (such as
    strategy guide authors/publishers or magazine staff) without express permission
    of the author.
                                    IMPORTANT NOTES:
    This document is formatted to look right with a fixed-width font, and looks
    best in around a 9 point font in an 79-column window.
    This guide is divided into two sections--an FAQ, under which all the pertinent
    data regarding the game's system and so forth is covered, and a walkthrough as
    a step-by-step guide through the actual game itself.
    I get a ton of email about the various guides I write, and I don't have the
    time or the inclination to answer it all. I actually do not answer the majority
    of the email I get regarding my FAQs, because most of them are not worth
    respondingt to. If you are writing me an email and want me to respond, keep the
    following things in mind:
     * I have a very low tolerance threshold for stupid questions. If you need
       to ask a question, make sure the answer isn't already in this FAQ. The
       "Find" option of your text editor is your best friend.
     * Put the name of the game you're asking the question for in the subject line
       at least, and at least in the body of the text! I write a lot of FAQs and
       it'll help if I know what game you're talking about. Plus it will greatly
       increase the chance of my reading your email and not accidentally deleting
       it as spam. (Viva la 21st Century Internet and the spam flood it spawned...)
     * I'm not going to be anal about it, but try and keep a decent semblance of
       grammar and punctuation. Also refrain from using AOL-netspeak; use "you"
       instead of "u" and the like. It's only two keystrokes difference, come on
    If you want to host this FAQ on your site, your site must be either A)
    GameFAQs.com or B) a Knights of Legend-specific site. If you are B) email me
    first to ask so I know. If you have just a general-purpose game FAQ repository
    site that leeches off GameFAQs, do not even bother to email me to ask for
    permission to host this FAQ as the answer is no. I explicitly deny the use of
    this FAQ to the FAQ thieves at cheatcc.com, Cheatcc.com may not use this guide
    in any way, shape or form. If you find this, or any of my other guides, at
    cheatcc.com, it does not belong there, and the webmaster has stolen it. Email
    their upstream providers at Yahoo and complain, as they never pay any attention
    to complaints themselves.
     B.02 CLASSES
      B.03a HUMANS
      B.03b ELVES
      B.03c DWARVES
      B.03d KELDERHEIT
     C.01 THE TOWN
     C.03 THE ARENA
     D.01 THE ROUND
      D.02b ACTION ICONS
      D.03c NUTRITION
      D.03d MAGIC
      D.04c MAGIC
      D.04e ARMOR
      D.04f WEAPONS
      F.04a HUMAN CLASS
      F.04c GIANT CLASS
      F.04e UNDEAD CLASS
      G.03 THE QUESTS
       G.03a BURGLARY AT STEPHANIE'S (Ruffians)
       G.03b THE KNIGHTS' STANDARD (Bandits)
       G.03c THE WITCH'S QUILL (Ghouls)
       G.03d BRETTLE'S TRUTH SWORD Goblins
       G.03e THE FINAL BATTLE (Cyclopes)
       G.03f THE KELDER'S CROWN (Binderaks)
       G.03g NOBJOR THE PIRATE (Hobgoblins)
       G.03h MUGGING THE MUGGERS (Thugs)
       G.03i OUTING THE SPY (Muck Things)
       G.03j CHASING RUMORS (Great Orcs)
       G.03k GETTING THE DEATH BLADE (Mist Giants)
       G.03l YARDLEY'S FOLLY (Walbars)
       G.03m CONTROLLING THE SERPENT (Skeletons)
       G.03n THE MEANING OF RHORDING (Ogres)
       G.03o DECODING THE MAP (Sylphs)
       G.03p INTHOS THE MAGE (Stone Ogres)
       G.03q SEARCHING FOR OIL (Brigands)
       G.03r ALCHEMIST'S TOOLS (Orcs)
       G.03s TREASURE HUNT (Minotaurs)
       G.03t TROLL HUNTING (Trolls)
       G.03u BRYOR (Ettins)
       G.03v CUDDLY DJINN (Djinn)
       G.03w THE RING OF SHADES (Cliff Trolls)
       G.03x SHELLERNOON'S WARD (Sledges)
      F.01 BRETTLE
      F.03 HTRON
      F.05 POITLE LOCK
      F.06 OLANTHEN
      F.08 KLVAR WOODS
      F.09 FALLEN KEEP
      F.10 KAZHAD
      H.02 HEX EDITING
                                 SECTION A: INTRODUCTION
    Knights of Legend is a little-known RPG that was released by Origin Systems in
    late 1989. The idea behind the game was to make a very realistic, multi-part
    RPG. The first installment was to cover the land of Ashtalarea, and future
    expansions were planned for other lands called Salynn, Bamidor, Tsadith, and
    Astrikan. (according to the manual) However, Knights of Legend didn't do so
    well, and the future expansions were never released. If the reviews I read were
    any indication, people didn't really warm up to the system and thought it was
    too complicated. It's a shame, because once you get past the learning curve,
    Knights is a really great game. Even to this day, over 15 years later, I have
    yet to see an RPG combat system that comes even close to the level of depth and
    detail in Knights of Legend.
    So why bother with a Knights of Legend FAQ now? Partially because it's one of
    my all-time favorite games, but also because despite how good the game is,
    there really isn't much in the way of information about it out there. I was
    able to find one very old FAQ floating around out there that was written about
    the time the game was released, but it was somewhat limited in scope and
    inaccurate in a few parts too. Hopefully this FAQ will generate interest in the
    game so that people will give it a whirl; it's one of the best games ever made
    in my opinion.
    In terms of where to find the game...eBay is probably your best bet. (I've seen
    it there a couple of times in the recent past, usually the Apple II version
    though) You might be able to find it at abandonware sites, but you really need
    the manual--and more importantly, the map--to play the game effectively, so
    you'll be better off finding a real copy, if you can.
    There are two versions of Knights of Legend; one for the Apple II, and one for
    DOS. I've played both versions; the Apple II version I played to death during
    high school, and the DOS version I found more recently at a garage sale. The
    two versions are virtually identical, but this FAQ is primarily based on the
    DOS version, as that's the one I was playing as I wrote it, and information on
    the Apple II version is mostly based on memory.
    In terms of which version to play, there are advantages and disadvantages to
    each. The DOS version has substantially better graphics, (the portraits,
    character icons nad paperdolls especially are a lot nicer than the Apple
    version) but there are gameplay elements in the Apple version that are missing
    from the DOS version. Here's a quick overview of the non-graphical differences
    I've noticed:
    The DOS version can be installed to the hard drive, whereas the Apple version
    requires extensive disk swapping.
    Missile weapons act more realistically in the Apple version; your arrows and
    bolts can hit any character in line with your target. In the DOS version, when
    you fire an arrow, it will always hit the square you target.
    In the Apple II version, characters will only be frozen in terror when
    attempting melee attacks on "terrible" enemies; missile attacks and spells are
    not penalized. In the DOS version, ANY non-movement action can result in a
    character being frozen in terror when facing "terrible" enemies.
    Fewer enemy types in the DOS version are "terrible" than in the Apple II
    In the Apple II version, spell customization is broken; when you go to
    customize a spell the screen freezes up with weird graphic artifacts and you
    have to restart. Or it could just be that I was extremely unlucky (I thought my
    disk was bad, so I exchanged it at the store but the new disks did the same
    In terms of which version is "better," when pressed for a choice I'd say the
    DOS version because you don't need to disk-swap and spell customization works.
    If you could get spell customization to work in the Apple version and didn't
    mind the disk swapping and worse graphics, then it would probably be the better
    choice. Overall though the differences are very minor.
    As far as I know, no fan expansions for Knights of Legend ever exist. However,
    if anyone more code-oriented than I knew how to reverse-engineer the KOL system
    and would be willing to work on a fan expansion, drop me a mail and I'd be
    happy to help however I could, and lend what knowledge I've gleaned from the
    hex-editing I've done on the game so far. I've pretty much completely decoded
    how the save game file works and have made some progress toward figuring out
    where the monster data is stored (in the Apple II version only, I've come up
    empty trying to hack the DOS version) but don't know how town text, store data,
    or map data is stored, or any of the graphical data. If anyone is willing to
    help on a KOL fan expansion, this is the kind of data I'd need to know.
    There are a lot of different character classes in Knights of Legend, all of
    whom play very differently. On the surface, the only difference between
    character classes is their statistics and starting Weapon Skills, but in
    Knights of Legend, where statistics are more or less static, that makes a huge
    difference in the long run. While this is covered in the manual, here's a brief
    overview of the seven Primary and three Secondary Statistics, and what they
    Strength determines several things; it gives you combat bonuses to hit and to
    damage your enemies. Most importantly, though, it affects how much weight a
    character can carry on his or her person and not get fatigued.
    Quickness affects how soon a character will move in a combat round. A faster
    character will act earlier in a combat round than a slower character, though
    this is affected in great part by the type of action being performed.
    Size is a unique attribute in that it's the only one where a high value is not
    necessarily better than a low one. Very large characters can take more
    punishment and deal stunning blows to enemies more often, and can take High
    Shots at tall enemies that shorter characters could not. However their armor
    weighs a whole lot more, which is a downside.
    Health's primary function is to determine fatigue regeneration rate. It says in
    the manual that it also staves off disease, but I've never seen a character get
    sick. It figures into two of the secondary statistics, so is extra important in
    that sense.
    Foresight affects how late in a character decides his or her actions when
    picking what to do in a Combat Round. The higher the Foresight, the later in
    the round the character picks--and the better the chance to see what enemies
    with lower Foresight have already decided to do.
    Charisma--well...I don't know what it does. It doesn't seem to affect anyone's
    reactions, nor does it do anything like change prices in stores. It may be a
    useless attribute.
    Intellect affects the chance for a character to interpret an enemy's "body
    language" and decipher what action they are going to take in a combat round. It
    also affects spellcasting and the ability to join mage's guilds.
    Balance is the average of a character's Strength and Intellect. Certain
    creatures in the game are "terrible" and can strike fear into the hearts of the
    toughest adventurers, causing them to freeze in terror when attempting to do
    anything but run away. Characters with high Balance values have a better chance
    to muster up the courage to fight these creatures.
    Endurance is the average of a character's Strength and Health. It affects the
    amount of Stamina that a character has, and the ability to resist wounds. It's
    a very important attribute for all classes, as Fatigue is critical in this game.
    Body, or Body Points, are the average of a character's Size and Health. They
    directly affect how much damage a character can take before getting knocked out
    or having an arm or leg disabled.
    B.02 CLASSES
    The following is a list of all the classes in the game and their average
    starting attributes. Note that they differ substantially from the manual, which
    is mostly flat out wrong. I got these values by rolling up 12 characters of
    each class and taking the average, so these numbers are obviously not absolute.
    They should, however, give you a better ballpark estimate of what each class is
    like than the manual does. The Weapon Skills are listed as Offensive/Defensive
    skills (or just Offensive in the case of Missile Weapons)
    Barbarian:  90  60  70  70  66  60  60  75  80  70 1500  *Greatsword 10/5
                                                              Halberd 5/5	
    Ranger:     75  70  66  66  70 100  70  72  70  66 1500  *Broadsword 10/7
                                                              Long Bow 10	
    Warrion:    68  60  66  88  60  62  68  68  78  77 1500  *Battle Axe 12/10	
    Squire:     70  70  70  78  70  70  78  74  74  74 2000  *Broadsword 12/5
                                                              Self Bow 5
    Darkguard:  72  70  70  75  70  55  80  76  73  72 2000  *Mace 12/5
                                                              Lt Crossbow 5
    Watchman:   75  66  68  75  66  72  70  72  75  71 1500  *Battle Axe 10/7
                                                              Long Bow 7	
    Plainsman:  54  88  63  65  63  70  88  71  59  64 1500  *Long Bow 12
                                                              Longsword 5/0	
    Hunter:     54  82  64  68  80  75  74  64  61  66 1500  *Self Bow 10
                                                              Long Spear 7/5	
    Regular:    69  69  70  68  68  94  69  69  68  69 3000  *Long Spear 10/5
                                                              Battle Axe 10/10
    Highwayman: 82  62  70  82  62  62  68  75  82  76 1500  *War Hammer 12/7
                                                              Longsword 5/0	
    Pirate:     70  70  68  75  62  75  75  72  72  71 3000  *Scimitar 12/7
                                                              Self Bow 7/0
    Rogue:      54  83  68  62  75  63  76  65  58  65 3000  *Longsword 10/10	
    Tigress:     69  78  64  65  63  75  75  72  67  64 1500  *Halberd 12/10
                                                              Longsword 7/5	
    Amazon:      75  63  67  68  68  75  75  75  71  67 1500  *Broadsword 10/10
                                                              Self Bow 10	
    Huntress:    54  85  67  63  74  75  76  65  58  65 1500  *Long Bow 12
                                                              Short Spear 7/7
    Plainswoman: 54  88  61  62  61  75  75  64  58  61 1500  *Long Bow 10
                                                               Long Sword 12/7
        Male:  61  87  61  55  61  69  80  70  58  58 1500  *Longsword 12/5
      Female:  56  89  60  54  75  70  69  62  55  57 1500  *Long Bow 12
        Male:  70  74  62  62  68  68  75  72  66  62 1500  *Longsword 12/5
      Female:  63  74  62  61  74  66  76  69  62  61 1500  *Long Bow 12
        Male:  61  80  58  62  62 101  83  72  61  60 1500  *Long Sword 12/5
      Female:  63  80  56  63  76  75  68  65  63  59 1500  *Long Bow 12
       Male:   54  77  70  63  62  76  95  74  58  66 1000  *Elf Bow 15
     Female:   47  75  61  60  75  76  88  67  53  60 1000  *Elf Bow 15
       Male:   55  94  61  55  60  63  82  68  55  58 1500  *Long Sword 12/5
     Female:   47  94  58  62  75  63  68  57  54  60 1500  *Long Bow 12
      Male:    54  80  55  60  70  83  87  70  57  57  200  *Elf Bow 25
    Female:    48  74  53  61  75  82  89  68  54  57  200  *Elf Bow 25
      Digger:    88  54  48  89  54  62  70  79  88  68 3000 *Short Spear: 12/7
    Spiderguard: 74  80  54  68  62  69  69  71  71  61 1500 *Battle Axe 12/7
      Orcbane:   69  69  52  75  75  76  69  69  72  63 1500 *War Hammer 12/7
       Levy:     68  60  51  81  67  75  76  72  74  66 1500 *Battle Axe 5/5
                                                              Lt Crossbow 10
    Cliff Guard:  83  60  77  70  68  61  75  79  76  73 1250  *Greatsword 10/10
    Rock Ranger:  68  69  79  83  62  62  76  72  75  81 1250  *Longbow 12
    Far Seeker:   76  63  84  77  68  62  73  74  76  80 1250  *Greatsword 5/5
                                                                Longbow 5
    The following is a detailed analysis of each class and how they fare up against
    the others, with both advantages and disadvantages to taking each one, plus
    some of my own commentary as to how useful I find them. These are not be-all-
    end-all evaluations, as just about any party makeup will work, but hopefully
    will help you decide what kind of a party to make.
    B.03a HUMANS
    There's so much variety among Human character classes that it's hard to sum
    them up easily. Some are good front-line, heavy warriors, some are better as
    scouts, some are better as light warriors or archers. The only thing that
    Humans are rarely good at is magic. (Though Plainsmen can be a match for any
    other class in the game in that arena) Humans tend to be pretty large (though
    not as giant as Kelden) so they're generally best with medium to light armor,
    though this too varies. Unlike Elves, there are separate classes for male and
    female Humans. And, it's unfortunate to say, the women got the short end of the
    stick. Among the four female classes, two are geared toward melee and two for
    archery, but there are better classes for both roles amongs the ranks of human
    men. Humans will never be booted out of any establishment or house in the game
    due to their race, though they may be ejected due to their class. Human classes
    are very versatile overall.
    The Krag Barbarian is one of the better Human classes; a very solid warrior
    geared toward front-line melee fighting. Their Strength is better than any
    other class in the game, and their Endurance and Balance values are generally
    quite good. They can afford to wear heavier armor than most other Human classes,
    and they have great starting weapon skills; since you can get a magic
    Greatsword and Halberd, that adds to the bonus. The downside to Barbarians is
    that they're slow and stupid, so they rarely ever forsee enemy attacks, and
    they also make lousy archers. They also have less Body points than you'd hope
    for a front-line warrior. Also, the Barbarians are not welcome in several
    places in Thimblewald. The guard station and pub don't matter much, but getting
    booted out of the Thimblewald Abbey hurts quite literally; there are lots of
    quests given in the Thimblewald vicinity, and not having access to easy healing
    is a real downer.
    Drezin Rangers are a versatile and very well-rounded character class. They can
    be used as either an archer or a melee fighter with little problem. Their
    Charisma is higher than practically any other character class. (Though Charisma
    is of little use in KOL in general...) Because of their high strength and
    smaller size than other Humans, they can afford to wear slightly heavier armor,
    though not to the same extent of a Highwayman or Barbarian. Also, since Rangers
    are welcome everywhere in the game, they make good party leaders. The downside
    of Rangers is that they don't really excel anywhere; their Body points are a
    little low for a melee fighter and their quickness, foresight and intellect are
    a little low for an archer. Still, they're a solid, all-around character class.
    Staying power is the name of the game with the Krell Warrion. The only classes
    that can take more punishment than a Warrion are Kelden. But since Kelden are
    huge and Warrions are (comparitively) small, Warrions can afford to wear much
    heavier armor. Also, since Warrions only start with one weapon skill, you have
    a lot of leeway as to what weapons you want to give them. Plus, their one
    starting skill is at a much higher level than that of most other character
    classes. The downside of Warrions? They suck at everything else. They're slow
    and have crappy foresight, and all the their other stats are mediocre at best.
    With a lot of work and effort, you can turn a Warrion into an able fighter
    (melee only, they're not great as archers) but they start at a disadvantage.
    However, Warrions are welcome everywhere, so they make an acceptable party
    Despite the fact that their name makes them sound like a half-baked character
    (who wants a squire instead of a Knight?) the Hobean Squires are one of the
    best classes in the game. They're the only class that doesn't have a single
    stat that averages below 70. They're good at pretty much everything--melee,
    archery, magic--a Squire can be effective in any of these roles. (Though their
    high Health makes them better at melee overall) There aren't a lot of downsides
    to being a Squire, except that they start out with Self Bow Skill, and the Self
    Bow is a crappy weapon; it's a shame to have to waste points in them. Also,
    they don't have the strength to back up their Size so heavy armor is more or
    less out for Squires; medium armor like ring or scale is your best bet. The
    prisoner in the Hobean keep is the only character in the game that won't speak
    to Squires, so they also make a decent party leader.
    In terms of their stats, the Dark Guard are probably the most well-balanced
    class in the entire game. Their only bad stat is Charisma, which is pretty much
    useless anyway. They've got decent enough Strength and Health to wear heavy
    armor, and they're one of the few Human classes that can be outstanding mages.
    Their average Balance is also better than any other Human class. They also
    start with Mace skill, which means that if you kill a Binderak early on you can
    use their Spiny Maces, which make fantastic weapons. There is a downside to
    being a Dark Guard, though--a really big one. As former minions of the evil
    Pildar, the people of Ashtalarea HATE the Dark Guard. The Dark Guard get kicked
    out of more places than any other race or class in the entire game; more than
    half of the shopkeepers in Shellernoon will refuse to do business with a Dark
    Guard outright, and numerous other houses and shops across the land in other
    cities will too. What especially hurts is that the Dark Guard will get kicked
    out of two trainers, severely limiting their choice of weapons. Not to mention
    the fact they start with skill in a crappy weapon (Light Crossbow) as well.
    They're a fun character class to play, but dealing with the prejudice of
    Ashtalareans can be a real pain.
    The Shellernoon Watchmen are a lot like the Drezin Rangers, except that they
    trade off the Rangers' speed and Foresight (and Charisma, but who cares about
    that anyway) for extra Health. This means that they don't make as good archers
    as Rangers, but are still pretty good all-rounders. They're slightly taller
    than Rangers, but can still afford to wear heavy armor as their extra Health
    will make up for it in their increased Endurance. The downside for the Watchmen
    is that they're somewhat slow and have mediocre foresight so they rarely strike
    first or can predict their enemies' moves. Another problem with the Watchmen is
    their main starting weapon is the Battle Axe, which you can only train up to a
    skill level of 30. Still, they're a solid class, and they're not unwelcome
    anywhere in-game so can make a decent party leader too.
    Lintle Plainsmen are pure archers and/or mages. They have fantastic speed which
    allows them to run from nasties well, and their Intellect allows them to forsee
    enemies' moves quite frequently (though their Foresight is a little on the low
    side) and makes them excellent mages qualified to enter any of the magic orders.
    Their comparitively high starting skill in Longbow makes it even better. They
    also won't get ejected from any house in the game. The downside to Plainsmen is
    that archery and magic is basically all they can do. They absolutely suck at
    close-quarters combat; if you put them into a melee combat situation they'll
    get knocked out really quickly, as they neither have the strength to do much
    damage or wear heavy armor, or the health and size to have any lasting power.
    They can make good scouts, but the fact of the matter is that Elves do a better
    job. If you must have a human male as an archer/scout, the Plainsman is a good
    choice. I'd pass, though, as I like to have my scouts and archers female.
    (though that's mostly just for party diversity reasons)
    Olanthen Hunters are a whole lot like Lintle Plainsmen. They're pretty much
    pure archers, though if you must put them into a melee situation they'll
    survive a better than a Plainsman would because of their increased Health.
    They're fast which makes them good scouts, but what's really the Hunter's main
    advantage is their incredible Foresight, which is better than any other
    character class in the game. They've got a decent Intellect to back that up too,
    so you'll "forecast" enemies' actions with Hunters more than just about any
    other class in the game. While a minor advantage, the Hunters won't get kicked
    out of any places in the game. The downside to Hunters is that like Plainsmen,
    they also suck in melee combat, plus their starting weapon, the Self Bow, is a
    lousy weapon. Their Foresight is a real boon, but that by itself doesn't make
    it worth having a Hunter in your party, unless you're shooting for an all-male
    party, in which case the Hunter is a good candidate for your Scout.
    The main advantage to the Brettle Regular is their starting Gold, which ties
    for the highest amount of any character in the game. They also have high
    Charisma, decent starting weapon skills and none of their stats are
    particularly low either. That's about all you can say for the Regulars though.
    They're pretty much mediocre at everything. They don't make great melee
    fighters, and they don't make great archers either. Not to mention that, but
    they'll also get booted out of the Bakery in Olanthen and Zachary Bladeshure's
    house in Htron. The Bakery is no big deal, but Zachary Bladeshure is one of the
    best trainers in the game. Plus, the Regulars have to waste a skill on Battle
    Axe, which can't get any higher than 30 unless you cheat. I advise passing on
    this class, unless you're looking for a challenge.
    Big, strong, and tough; that about sums up the Duke's Highwayman. The
    Highwaymen are actually one of the best character classes in the game, and an
    ideal candidate for party leader, as they don't get booted out of any places in
    the game. Highwaymen are similar to Barbarians; they're geared toward being
    front-line melee fighters. They're slightly weaker than Barbarians, but have
    better Health and Body Points instead, and are also slightly faster. Their
    Foresight is lousy, but their Intellect is decent, meaning that they'll get
    forecasts more often than a Barbarian would. The main downside to being a
    Highwayman is that their starting weapon skills are not really ideal for the
    class. The Warhammer is indeed the best of the one-handed weapons, but
    Highwaymen really shine with big heavy two-handers, and Longsword skill is
    really out of place. They also are totally ineffective as archers and/or mages
    so they're limited as well. To get the most potential out of a Highwayman,
    you'll have to choose another weapon type and train it from scratch. Still, the
    Highwayman is an excellent character.
    The Htron Pirate is actually quite a solid character choice. They're a very
    well-rounded character that can do well as both a melee fighter and and an
    archer, or even a mage. They also have a high starting Gold level, which means
    you can deck out a Pirate in decent equipment at the very start of the game. If
    you use the Pirate as a melee fighter (which is probably better) then he's best
    suited for one-handed weapons with medium armor; they're not strong enough to
    wield heavy weapons or armor. Still, they can hold their own quite well, and
    while their starting weapon, the Scimitar, isn't particularly powerful, you can
    build your Scimitar level higher than any other weapon in the game. The
    downside to being a Pirate is that as they're jacks-of-all trades, they're
    masters of none, much like the Rangers and Watchmen. In fact, they'll probably
    be slightly less effective in combat than either of those professions as
    they're slightly weaker. Their Foresight is also pretty poor, meaning that they
    won't forsee attacks very well. And, like some other characters, they start
    with Self Bow skill, which is kind of a waste. Pirates will also be booted out
    of the Thimblewald Armorer, though this probably isn't too big of a deal, as
    you can equip your Pirate at many other places.
    Rogues are best used as archers or low-level mages; their Quickness, Foresight
    and Intellect are all quite good, which suits archers well. They also start out
    with quite a lot of gold. That's about it that's good for Rogues though; in my
    opinion they're the worst Human class in the game. They're potentially good
    archers, but start out with jack squat in the way of archery skill, and are
    next to useless in melee combat; they don't have enough strength to wear
    anything but the lightest armor, and their Health is even worse than Plainsmen.
    They can make a decent scout, but not nearly as well as a Hunter or Plainsman.
    (to say nothing of Elves) They also get kicked out of the Fishmonger in Poitle
    and the Wailing Peacock Inn (the good one) in Htron; though the former is no
    big deal the latter is a pain. There's really no reason to make your character
    a Rogue unless you're looking for a challenge or want to have your party a
    typical "RPG archetype" one. (But as there are no treasure chests to pick or
    traps to disarm, the archetypal RPG rogue is pretty much out of place in this
    game) I suggest you pass on this class.
    The Ghor Tigress is one of the more balanced classes in the game. In fact,
    their starting weapon skills are better than any other class in the game,
    making the Tigress the deadliest character class in terms of their starting
    stats. Tigresses can make both good archers and passable mages as well. Overall
    Tigresses are best as melee fighters, and they can use any type of armor,
    though they're probably best with medium armor due to their Strength and Health
    values. The down side of Tigresses is that while they're excellent warriors,
    the fact of the matter is that there are human male classes that are better at
    it. A Tigress can do great damage and is nimble and quick, but they just don't
    have the stamina and staying power to truly excel. Still, they make excellent
    light fighters, so are worth a look.
    The Amazons are, pound-for-pound, the best melee fighter amongst human women.
    They're a little on the slow side, but they've got great strength, good health
    and foresight, and excellent Intellect, making them a very well-rounded
    character class overall. They're about on par with a Watchman, Ranger, or
    Pirate in terms of overall skill. If you want your party leader to be female,
    the Amazon is the class that you should probably go with. Amazons don't have
    much in the way of disadvantages, except that their Body Points are a little
    low for a melee fighter, and they are another class that wastes their skill
    points with Self Bow skill. And, like the Tigress, there are male classes that
    are potentially better at melee than Amazons.
    The Olanthen Huntress is very much like their male counterpart, the Olanthen
    Hunter; in fact the two classes are practically identical. Huntresses are very
    slightly faster and smarter than Hunters, but their Health, Endurance, and Body
    points are inferior. While a Huntress' Foresight is still good, it they don't
    enjoy the exceptional level of the Hunters. Overall, the Huntress is geared to
    be an archer or scout. Like the Hunter, the Huntress is not a good melee
    fighter at all, and should shy away from that profession. Her Health is also
    pretty mediocre, and her strength is low, so putting anything other than the
    lightest armor on her is a mistake. If given a choice between the two
    professions, I would say that the Huntress is slightly superior; the speed and
    Intellect bonus is worth the Foresight tradeoff, but more importantly, she
    starts with Long Bow skill instead of Self Bow skill. If you want a human
    archer/scout, the Huntress is probably your best bet.
    Plainswomen are a lot like Plainsmen. They're geared primarly to be archers,
    with very high Quickness, and good Intellect to forecast enemies' moves. They
    also can make passable mages as well if you choose to go that route. They also
    have much better starting melee capabilities than Plainsmen, with a much higher
    Long Sword skill level; they have a much better defense once they've run out of
    arrows. The downside to Plainswomen is that compared to their male counterpart,
    they suck. They've got lower Health, Foresight, and MUCH lower Intellect, and
    all three of their secondary statistics are inferior to Plainsmen, markedly so
    in the case of Balance. There's really no reason to be a Plainswoman instead of
    a Plainsman unless you want a really gender-balanced party. Still, they're not
    THAT much inferior, and they make pretty good archers and scouts overall. With
    a little work, you won't notice that much of a difference between the two.
    B.03b ELVES
    Elves are geared toward being archers, scouts, and mages. They are the fastest
    race in the game, and have exceptional Intellect, so they have a lot of leeway
    in terms of magic orders they can join. Certain Elf races come with skill in
    the Elf Bow, the most powerful missile weapon in the game. (while Heavy
    Crossbows can do more damage, the fact that you have to reload them after every
    shot negates any advantage they would have) They have generally strong
    Foresight as well so can predict enemy moves with reasonable regularity. Elves
    make terrible melee warriors though. Their speed is such that they're excellent
    in getting in the first hit, but it rarely takes one hit to kill enemies, and
    very few Elves have the strength to make using a melee weapon worthwhile. The
    healthiest elf profession is at about the same level as the sickliest human (to
    say nothing of Dwarves or Kelden) so they tend to have very poor Body Points.
    Unlike Humans, Elven females do not get the short end of the stick, but are
    generally superior to their male counterparts. While they generally have lower
    Strength and Health than male Elves, they all have better Foresight, which is
    more important in an archer. Not to mention the fact that most Male Elf races
    start out with no missile weapon skills at all. Overall, Elves are ideal scouts
    and archers.
    Like other Elf classes, the Breklands are most geared toward archery. They are
    the second-fastest Elf class in general, and their Strength is at about the
    midpoint amongst Elves. Brekland Males also make good mages as they have a very
    high Intellect. (Brekland Females don't share this trait) Conversely, Brekland
    Females are better archers as they have substantially better Foresight.
    Brekland Elves can wield heavier weapons and wear heavier armor than some other
    Elf classes, but anything heavier than Leather is probably a mistake. The
    downside to being a Brekland Elf is that they have the worst Health rating of
    any class in the game, and their Body points are quite poor. As such, they're
    utterly useless in melee combat, which gives Brekland Males a distinct
    disadvantage, seeing as how they only start with Long Sword skill. Brekland
    females are decidedly superior; they're faster and they have better Foresight,
    so make much better scouts and archers. There are classes that are better in
    this arena, but Brekland females will make solid archers nontheless.
    Klvar elves are the only Elf class that can really hold their own in melee.
    Though Klvar Elves are slower than the other Elf classes, Klvar males are the
    strongest of them, and their Health, while not good in comparison to other
    races, is decent as well. Because of their reasonably small size, they can wear
    heavier armor as well. Klvar females are better as archers, with their higher
    Foresight and Intellect. Plus they start with bows. The downside to Klvar elves
    is that they're really a mediocre character class when you get down to it.
    While Klvar males can be passable melee fighters as well as archers, they are
    really only average at best in either. Klvar females make better archers and
    scouts, but there are better classes out there for that job. If you must have a
    melee Elf, then go with a Klvar male; otherwise you're probably better off
    passing on these classes.
    Melod Elves are like most other Elves in that they're geared primarily toward
    archery. They have better Health than any of the other Elf classes, which gives
    them a little better lasting power. While not the the same extent as a Klvar
    Elf, Melod elves can handle heavier armor than most other Elves as well. Melod
    males also make excellent mages with their high Intellect scores, but like the
    Brekland Elves, Melod females do not share the same affinity for magic. Melod
    males also have the highest Charisma of any class in the game, though this
    admittedly means little. In terms of archery, Melod males and females are about
    on even footing; females have better Foresight so they'll have more chances to
    read an enemy's moves, but males have better Intellect to interpret those moves.
    The downside to Melods are the same as other Elves; they're terrible at melee
    and can't take many hits. Plus Melod males suffer from having an inopportune
    starting weapon. Overall, they make decent archers and scouts, but there are
    better classes for this.
    Pyar Elves are archers like most other Elves, but their real strength is in
    spellcasting; they are the best spellcasters in the game, especially Pyar males.
    They also have better Health ratings than a lot of Elves, and on average Pyars
    have better Balance and Body Point ratings than the other Elf races. Plus, both
    males and females start out with the wonderful Elf Bow as a weapon. As such,
    they make ideal scouts. Pyar females aren't quite as good spellcasters, and
    they're weaker than males, but not by much, and they have better Foresight. The
    down side to the Pyar Elves is that they have the lowest Strength rating of all
    Elf classes. Pyar males also have the disadvantage of being exceptionally tall
    for an elf. While this may not seem like a disadvantage as more hight equals
    more Body Points, it means that their armor is going to be a lot heavier, and
    since Pyar males excel as mages this poses a problem as spellcasting really
    drains stamina. If you do use a Pyar male, I actually suggest you send him into
    battle naked, or wearing nothing but a Cloth Aketon. Pyar females have a little
    more leeway, so I would lean more toward using a female than a male. Also,
    while they make great archers and scouts, pound for pound I think Usip Elves
    are better. Having a Pyar Elf AND an Usip Elf is not a bad idea, though....
    The Thism Elves are the fastest character classes in the game, making them
    fantastic archers and scouts. Thism males also have high Intellect, making them
    great mages, too. Thism Females aren't great mages, but they have better Health
    and Foresight than their male counterparts. Plus they start out with Bows,
    making it easier to use them "out of the box." The downside to Thism Elves is
    that their Strength and Health (in the case of males) suck, so they make
    horrible melee fighters, and the worst Endurance scores of all the classes in
    the game. As Thism males start out as being equipped for melee, this makes them
    the most vulnerable of all classes in the game when starting out. Their
    Strength also prevents them from using any but the lightest of armor. (This
    isn't a big deal for Thism women, but men, it is) I wouldn't bother using a
    Thism male myself, but a Thism female makes an excellent backup archer or scout,
    should something happen to your primary scout.
    In my opinion, the Usip Elves are the most balanced and well-rounded of the Elf
    races. If you only have one Elf in your party, make it an Usip. Usips have high
    Quickness statistics (especially men) and come in only second to the Pyars in
    terms of innate spellcasting ability. (the females are better in this arena)
    What's more, they start with a whopping 25 points of skill in the Elf Bow,
    making them potentially quite deadly to start with. As they are the smallest of
    the Elf classes, their armor also weighs less than other classes. Overall, I
    would say that the Usip female makes the single best scout in the game. She's
    not quite as fast as one would like for a scout, but the better Foresight and
    Intellect more than make up for this, and the extra punch from the Elf Bow and
    magic spells means that she can hold her own in a pinch quite well too. The
    down side to an Usip is that like other elves, they're useless in melee combat,
    and are almost as weak as the Pyars. Also they start out with a pittance in
    terms of funds; your other party members will have to foot the bill for their
    initial equipment. Their Endurance and Body Points are also pretty low, but
    equipped in nothing but Cloth, they can still expend no Fatigue at all when
    sprinting uninjured. Overall the Usips are one of the better classes in the
    game, and definitely worth at least a look.
    B.03c DWARVES
    Dwarves are primarily geared for up-close-and-personal scrapping in melee.
    They're strong and hardy so they have fantastic Endurance and can dish out
    nasty damage as well. Also, since Dwarves are so small, they can deal with
    heavy armor better than any other race in the game. Dwarves are the only race
    that can be completely decked out in full plate armor and a heavy weapon and
    not have major Stamina problems. There are several down sides to being a Dwarf,
    though. First and foremost is their size; it allows them to wear heavy armor
    better than any other class, but you pretty much HAVE to wear heavy armor as
    Dwarves will be on the receiving end of mighty blows more than any other race
    without it. While their high Health makes up for it somewhat, they are low on
    Body points when compared to Humans or Kelden. The short stature of Dwarves
    also becomes a liability when you're fighting massive opponents like Giants, as
    it's hard for Dwarves to hit anything but the legs of these sorts of creatures.
    However, the biggest liability for Dwarves is their speed in battle; Dwarves
    cannot Sprint, which means they can only move one space per turn no matter what.
    (You could equip them with the Flying Cloak once you get it, but a Dwarf is
    MUCH better off wearing the Courage Coat) Another, minor problem with dwarves
    is that they get booted out of various establishments more than other races.
    Still, the fact that you can arm and armor a Dwarf to the hilt without
    suffering major Fatigue penalties make them very effective characters in melee
    combat. Having all your melee fighters Dwarves is not recommended (as there are
    going to be situations where you're going to need at least one or two melee
    guys to sprint) but they can be real assets to your party nonetheless.
    Note on Dwarf Classes:
    There are two clans of Dwarves, Ghor Dwarves and Mytrone Dwarves. There are
    four classes for each clan, each having an equivalent to the other clan. (For
    example Ghor Militia has Mytrone Levy as a counterpart) The counterparts are
    different in name only; all their stats, starting skills, weapons, etc. are
    In my opinion, the Tunnelers and Diggers are the best Dwarf class in the game.
    Dwarfs "specialize" more or less in wearing heavy armor, and the Tunnelers and
    Diggers do this better than any class in the game. They've got incredible
    Strength and Health; the only class with better Strength is the Barbarian, and
    nobody has better Health than a Tunneler/Digger. This gives them really high
    Endurance. Plus, they're the smallest class in the game, which means their
    armor weighs less than any other class. You can deck out a Tunneler/Digger
    completely in Plate, give him a Kite Shield or a Greatsword, have him run into
    battle using nothing but Berserk attacks, and he'll STILL not lose any Stamina.
    While they'll never hit the head of a giant, this makes them incredible close-
    combat scrappers. Plus, they start out with a ton of money. The downside of the
    Tunneler/Digger is that while they excel in Strength and Stamina, they're not
    very good at anything else. Their Quickness and Foresight absolutely suck; in
    fact, they've got the worst scores in those two stats than any other class in
    the game. Also their starting weapon is kind of crappy too--they're much more
    suited for heavier weapons with more of a punch. And since they're so slow,
    until you can afford to buy the heavy armor that will soak up all the hits
    they'll take, these guys may die a little more quickly than you'd hope. Still,
    the Tunnelers and Diggers are great at what they do, and make a valuable
    addition to any party.
    Ratguards and Spiderguards are quick little buggers. While most Dwarves are
    slow and plodding, these guys are faster than most other classes in the game.
    They've also got decent strength too, which makes them a very versatile fighter.
    They can weild medium-to-heavy weapons and still smack the enemies before they
    get an attack off, which is useful. They don't have the foresight or intellect
    to make them good archers, but that's not what Dwarves are for anyway. Their
    diminutive size allows them to wear heavy armor with little detriment, but
    their lower Stamina compared to other Dwarf classes makes it so that they can't
    always afford to run around in full plate and not get winded. They also have
    the problem of not having much in the way of Body Points, even for a Dwarf, and
    their Foresight is nothing to write home about either, though it's not nearly
    as bad as the Tunneler/Digger's. While close combat is the
    Ratguard/Spiderguard's forte, a "stick and move" strategy may be the best one
    to adopt if you choose to use one. They're a pretty good class though; if you
    want a heavily-armored fighter but don't want to sacrifice speed with a
    Tunneler or Digger, the Ratguard or Spiderguard may be a good choice.
    The Ghor Trollbane and Mytrone Orcbane are the most well-rounded Dwarf Classes;
    they have generally high stats; none exceptional, but none terrible either.
    They're a lot like a very short Hobean Squire in many respects. One major
    advantage to the Trollbane and Orcbane is that they have much better Foresight
    than the other Dwarf classes, so they'll predict enemy movements more often
    than a Tunneler or Spiderguard would. They also start with the best weapon of
    all the Dwarf classes. The downside of the Trollbane and Orcbane is that
    they're really just an average character class. Like other Dwarves, their small
    size allows them to wear heavier armor, but not to the same extent as a
    Tunneler, and they don't have the speed of a Ratguard. They're a decent
    character class, but if you're going to use a Dwarf, you'll really want one
    that can make the most of a Dwarf's specialties, and the Trollbanes and
    Orcbanes can't do that. They're not a bad character class by any stretch of the
    imagination, but I think you'd be better off with one of the other ones.
    Like the Trollbane/Orcbane, the Militia/Levy is a very balanced Dwarf Class,
    though not as across-the-board stat-wise. They are slower, have less Foresight,
    and are slightly weaker than the Trollbane/Orcbane, but they have a
    substantially better Health rating, which gives them better Endurance and Body
    points. Militia and Levy also have better Intellect than any other Dwarf class,
    so they foresee enemy moves more often than Tunnelers or Ratguards would, plus
    they're the only Dwarf class that really can be decent mages. The downside to
    the Levy is that they're less effective in close combat than other Dwarf
    classes because of their reduced strength, meaning theat they can't equip as
    heavy armor as the others, nor do as much damage. They also start out with the
    worst weapon skills of any Dwarf class (Their Battle Axe skill is very low, and
    Light Crossbows are useless) Dwarves are not made to be jacks-of-all-trades, so
    the Ghor Militia and Mytrone Levy take a back seat to some of the other classes.
    Still, they can be worth a look, especially if you're thinking of using more
    than one Dwarf in your party.
    The Kelderheit are a very unique race. There are only three Kelderheit classes,
    and each is geared toward a different specialty. The first and most obvious
    difference between the Kelderheit and the other races is that they've got wings
    and can fly without use of magical items. This can be a huge tactical advantage,
    as frequently you'll want to use your Kelderheit to fly over rivers or over
    walls to scout out the enemy. The second feature of the Kelderheit is their
    huge size. Their size gives the Kelden an edge in several areas; most notably,
    it gives them a huge amount of Body points. It takes a ridiculous amount of
    punishment to knock out a Kelden, even one in light armor. Kelden can often
    take three or four hits that would knock out a Dwarf or Elf outright. Second,
    it gives the Kelden three advantages in melee combat. First, since they're so
    tall, shorter enemies will almost never hit the Kelderheit in the head or arms.
    Second, Kelderheit will deal mighty blows against smaller enemies a lot more
    often. Third, Kelderheit can target more areas of the body when facing larger
    creatures. However, the Kelderheit's large size has one serious drawback: armor
    weight. Because the Kelderheit are so huge, even the lightest armor weighs a
    ton and a half, simply because there has to be more of it. This means that
    Fatigue is more of a problem for Kelderheit than any other race in the game;
    you can't put heavy armor on a Kelden as it'll tire him out after only a couple
    of turns of combat. This also puts a damper in the Kelder's flying ability;
    flying takes a LOT of energy and even a moderately-armored Kelder's Fatigue
    will sink like a stone as soon as he takes to the air. And don't even THINK of
    making your Kelden a mage. This means that you're pretty much divided between
    making a Kelderheit a lightly-armored scout that flies (reducing their high
    Body Point advantage a bit by sacrificing protection) or a more heavily-armored
    melee scrapper that doesn't fly much or at all. Either way, you definitely
    won't go wrong with including a Kelden in your party, as they can prove very
    useful, especially at the early stages of the game.
    The Cliff Guard is the most melee-oriented Kelder. He doesn't have much in the
    way of quickness, and his Health is lower than other Kelden classes, but he
    packs one heck of a wallop with his high strength and size. Especially in the
    early stages of the game, a Cliff Guard can be an absolute juggernaut, taking
    down low-level enemies in only a few hits. (sometimes killing them outright in
    a single hit if you're lucky) They also have an extremely high Balance score,
    so they have better chances tangling with nasties like Giants and Cliff Trolls,
    before you get the Courage Coat. The down side to the Cliff Guard is that he's
    not made for flying; he's got lower Body Points than the other Kelderheit so he
    pretty much has to wear decent armor to make the most use of his melee affinity.
    Cliff Guards are also a little on the slow side, too. However, if you want your
    Kelden to be a melee fighter (and when push comes to shove, that's their better
    role in my opinion) the Cliff Guard is a prime contender. (though it's somewhat
    a tossup as the Far Seeker is very good at melee too)
    The primary focus of the Rock Ranger is lasting power and Health; they have
    more Body Points than any other character class in the game. They can take a
    lot of punishment and still not die. Their lower Strength and greater Quickness
    (not to mention starting weapon) makes them more oriented for archery and
    scouting than melee scrapping, though Rock Rangers are perfectly capable in
    that area as well with a little work. Because of their lack of Strength,
    they're better equipped in light armor. However, while geared for being an
    archer/scout, the Rock Ranger is really not ideal in that role. First, his
    Foresight is far lower than what one would want in a scout (though his
    Intellect is not bad) and his Quickness, while not bad, is not good for an
    archer either. With a lot of work, the Rock Ranger can become a capable melee
    fighter, but this takes a lot of skill building and with his large Size and low
    Strength, he'll never be able to wear the heavier armor one would expect from a
    melee warrior. Still, being able to fly is a big bonus for a scout, so a Rock
    Ranger may be worth a look at.
    The Far Seeker is like a cross between a Cliff Guard and a Rock Ranger. They're
    stronger than a Rock Ranger but weaker than a Cliff Guard, hardier and faster
    than a Cliff Guard but slower and less hale than a Rock Ranger. The Far Seeker
    can be used as either a melee fighter or a Scout. In some ways he makes a
    better scout than the Rock Rangers as the Far Seeker has better Foresight, and
    in some ways they make better melee fighters than Cliff Guards because they
    have more Body Points. However, I would say the Far Seeker is slightly more
    favorable as a melee fighter due to his Strength and Size. The major problem
    (and asset) to a Rock Ranger is their size. They're HUGE. This lets them target
    Cliff Troll and Giant upper bodies, but it makes their armor weigh a TON.
    Because of their lower strength, they can't afford to wear armor as heavy as
    the Cliff Guard, though the added Body Points make up for that. They're also
    slightly dumber than the other Kelderheit so they have problems interpreting
    enemy moves. If you want your Kelden to be a melee character, the Far Seeker is
    a pretty good choice. Compared with the Cliff Guard, though, I'd say that the
    Cliff Guard makes a slightly better choice; the added strength and armor
    capacity plus the greater starting weapon skill provides more of an edge. Still,
    the Far Seeker is definitely worth considering for the role as well.
    There are a ton of ways to build good parties in Knights of Legend, but some
    will make your life easier than others. First off, it's best to use all six
    slots of your party; it's possible to win the game with a smaller party, but a
    lot harder. Second, when creating your party, you should keep in mind what
    roles each of your party members are going to play. All characters more or less
    can fall into one or more of the four roles: Melee fighter, Archer, Scout, and
    Mage. An ideal party will be a combination of all of these roles.
    This is probably the most specialized of the character types, as it's very
    difficult, if not impossible to combine being a melee fighter with an Archer,
    Scout, or Mage. Your Melee Fighters are going to be your front-line warriors
    that deal out and take the most damage against the enemies that are fighting
    you. In many ways it's also the most important, as while it would be difficult
    to win the game with nothing but melee fighters, it would be next to impossible
    to win the game without any at all. Human Males, Kelderheit, and Dwarves make
    the best melee fighters, though Tigresses and Amazons make decent fighters too.
    Elves generally are poor candidates for melee roles. The most important
    statistics for a melee fighter are Strength and Health, as melee fighters need
    a lot of strength to wear heavy armor, and health to keep their stamina high.
    Quickness is also important, as getting in the first strike in a round can mean
    the difference between winning and losing a battle. There's a lot of leeway as
    to how you craft your melee fighters; you can make them heavy (but slow)
    warriors equipped with really heavy armor and a powerful two-handed weapon,
    that deal out tons of damage, or you can make them more defensively-oriented
    characters that wield lighter one-handed weapons and a shield, and focus on
    getting in the first strike. All melee fighters should wear decent armor;
    preferably some sort of metal armor. Classes like Barbarian, Highwayman, Cliff
    Guard, and Tunneler/Digger are ideal choices for being heavy melee fighters,
    and classes like Ranger, Darkguard, Tigress, and Spiderguard/Ratguard are best
    for being light melee fighters.
    Archers are primarily support classes that shoot arrows at enemies while your
    melee fighters are whacking them with close-range weapons. Archers on their own
    can kill enemies outright with enough skill as well, and do well with hit-and-
    run tactics. (and indeed, have to in the Arena) Elves excel at being archers,
    especially Elven females. The most important statistics for Archers are
    Foresight, Intellect, and Quickness; Foresight and Intellect to know where to
    fire their arrows, and Quickness to escape from enemies should they get too
    close. It's generally a good idea to have your archers train in a light melee
    weapon as well in case they run out of arrows, focusing on defensive training.
    Scimitars are a good choice, I find. (primarily since you can train them up so
    high without cheating) Because they'll rarely if ever be within melee range,
    light armor like Cloth or Leather is best for your archers. Archers also double
    well as Scouts and Mages. Pyar and Usip Elves make the best archers, as they
    have Elf Bow skill, which is the most powerful ranged weapon in the game.
    Plainsmen and Plainswomen also make excellent archers as well.
    You'll probably only need one Scout (though it can't hurt to have a backup) but
    they're an extremely important role in your game. They're of less use in random
    battles (where you'll probably want them to act as just an Archer or Mage) but
    are critical in quest battles, where you're facing huge numbers of enemies in
    complex setups. There, their primary role is to scout out and find out where
    the enemies are, and lure them back to where the bulk of your party is waiting
    so that they can cut them to ribbons one at a time. The most important
    statistic for your Scouts is Quickness, as being a Scout is a dangerous job and
    you may find yourself having to Sprint out of harm's way--fast. Foresight and
    Intellect are also very important as well, and should not be neglected. Stat-
    wise, in the long run the Thism Female is probably the best cut out to be a
    Scout, though my personal preference for a Scout is an Usip Female; her high
    Elf Bow stat, combined with her high Intellect, make her an excellent Archer as
    well as potential Mage, meaning she can better hold her own and take out
    enemies should she get caught between a rock and a hard place. Plainsmen and
    Plainswomen also make excellent Scouts.
    Mages are the only character type that are really optional (my first play
    through the game, I didn't use any) but used well, they are extremely powerful
    characters. Offensively, they can deal more damage more quickly than any other
    form of attack. Defensively, they can heal wounds, boost weapon skill levels,
    restore function to incapacitated limbs, and keep your melee fighters in good
    condition longer. The most important statistic for a Mage is obviously
    Intellect as it affects what order they can join and the potency of spells, but
    Health, and to a lesser extent, Strength are also useful (though not necessary)
    for a mage as they boost Endurance. Mages can double as Archers (and probably
    should) but not as melee fighters, as heavy armor causes a much greater stamina
    loss for a Mage. Mages should be clad in Cloth only if you give them any armor
    at all. Any class can be an effective mage, but Elves are best at it. Usips and
    Pyars generally make the best Mages. (and coincidentally, the best Archers as
    In terms of racial and gender makeup of your party, it's really up to you. You
    should definitely have a good balance, and at least a few humans, as a lot of
    places will refuse service to Dwarves, Kelden, or Elves--some of whom give
    critical hints as to the locations of quest entrances, too. (Darkguard should
    be considered a "minority" race too even though they're humans, as they're
    booted out of more places than any other class) I don't generally use Elven
    Males as I don't find them as useful as Elven females, but all other
    genders/races have their uses. Kelden are really useful as they're very mobile,
    are strong, and can take a beating, but are restricted to light armor; Dwarves
    are the opposite, they're slow and can't take much of a beating at all, but can
    wear really heavy armor.
    Here are a few suggestions for some parties:
    Ranger (Leader)             Highwayman (Leader)       Tigress (Leader)
    Usip Female                 Usip Female               Usip Female
    Cliff Guard                 Cliff Guard               Barbarian
    Pyar Female                 Thism Female              Plainsman
    Tunneler                    Darkguard                 Ratguard
    Plainswoman                 Pyar Female               Thism Female
    None of these are "ideal" though, you can do a lot of mixing and matching to
    get a party you like.
                                  SECTION C: GAMEPLAY
    Once you've got your party made, you can start the game proper. Like most RPGs,
    Knights of Legend gameplay can be divided into adventuring and combat. This
    section goes over the adventuring part of the game.
    C.01 THE TOWN
    There are six major cities in Ashtalarea, all of which are stocked with
    amenities that your characters will want to partake of. You may want to adopt
    one as your "home base" or just move your characters to whatever city is
    closest at hand. Here's a quick description of each town:
    You start in this town. It's an excellent "home base" for your characters at
    the beginning of the game. You can buy any weapon in the game but the Elf Bow
    here, and Hansard Forger is the only store in the game that sells Clubs and
    Quarterstaffs. Ludeman Armorers also stocks every class of head, torso, and leg
    armor in the game. The alehouse also doesn't boot out anyone. The trainer here,
    however, is not one of the best.
    This city is located smack in the middle of the map. It's also got a great
    variety of stores. The Weapon and Armor shops are both great; the Weapon Shop
    sells the least expensive weapons in the game, and the Armor shop sells all
    classes of armor, and a few capes too. Location-wise, it makes the best "home
    base," but from a practical standpoint it's a little inconvenient. The pub
    refuses service to Kelden characters, and everyone hates Darkguard characters,
    but more importantly, the only place to sell your treasure is dirt poor, and
    won't buy anything worth more than 200 or so gold.
    Htron is located at the northeast corner of the map. It's located closer to the
    Arena than any of the other cities, so you may find yourself staying in the inn
    there a lot. It has nothing in the way of armor and very little in the way of
    weaponry though. The pub refuses service to Elves, which is a pain. The
    trainers there are excellent though, and the city is in close proximity to the
    Amazon Village, who has another top-notch trainer as well.
    Poitle Lock:
    Poitle Lock is located on the west coast of Ashtalarea. It's got several really
    good food stores, and a good smith, but is least suited for use as a party base,
    because it has no Abbey, which means there's no way to heal up your characters
    there. However it is located in close proximity to several quests, and is the
    home of the Secret Storm order, one of the better magic orders to join.
    Olanthen is located on the south coast of Ashtalarea. It doesn't have much in
    the way of weaponry or armor, but the cobbler here is the place to go to buy
    your characters foot armor. Olanthen is not a great place to base your
    characters out of because getting into the city is a pain; the entrance is to
    the south and you can only get there by circling around to the west side of the
    city first. The trainer in Olanthen is the best in the game, but will only
    teach very advanced characters. (so advanced that you'll have to hack your
    stats to get him to train you)
    Thimblewald is located at the far northwest area of the map. In terms of
    services, it has fewer than just about any of the other towns. It's way out of
    the way, has an expensive inn, no trainers, and most importantly, no place
    whatsoever to sell the treasure you find, so it makes a pretty lousy home base.
    Barbarians also get refused service in both the pub and the Abbey, so if you've
    got any in your party, only come here for the quests.
    Most of your time in towns will be spent store-hopping; feeding your
    undernourished party, selling the loot you've gotten in battle, healing up at
    the Abbey, and saving your game at the Inn. While there can be specialty or
    hybrid stores, most stores fall into one of the following categories:
    In addition to buying armor here, you can also get armor fitted. When you have
    armor fitted, its size and weight is reduced, reducing its Fatigue toll on the
    character. Characters can wear armor that is too big for them, but will have to
    carry around that extra weight. Characters cannot wear armor that is too small
    for them at all. Armor that is too small also cannot be fitted. (Exception:
    There are some stores that sell armor that, by default, is too small for
    certain characters. Sometimes when you first buy this armor they'll give you
    the option to fit it to a larger character. Any armor you're already carrying
    can never be fit to larger characters)
    With the exception of junk stores, you'll probably visit the Weaponer less
    often than any other store type, unless they're willing to buy items off you.
    (in which case you may go there to sell your loot) The Weaponer is where you
    buy new weapons. As weapons never degrade (despite what the manual tells you)
    once you've bought a weapon, there's no reason to buy a new one unless you lose
    it or decide to switch to a new type. However, some Weaponers will Forge any
    magic ingots you get from quests into powerful Custom weapons.
    There's a wide variety of food stores; some are bakeries, some are pubs, some
    are brewhouses or smokehouses. They all sell food, which your characters can
    use to restore lost Nutrition. You'll probably stop off at one of these every
    time you visit town. You can eat food that you buy immediately, or buy it "to
    go" and select it from your backpack later to eat it. The amount of nutrition
    you get depends on the food.
    The Abbey is where you get your characters healed. You'll visit them a lot as
    it's the only way to permanently heal wounds--magical healing is just a quick
    fix. The amount it costs to heal you depends on the severity and number of your
    wounds--the more hurt you are, the more it costs to heal you.
    The Inn is the only place in the game you can go to save your game. When a
    character checks into an Inn, his/her current status is saved. There are two
    types of Inns; safe ones and dangerous ones. Dangerous inns are free, but the
    other tenants are sticky-fingered, and when you reload your game, you may get
    the message "Something is missing!" That means some of your Gold or more often,
    one of your items got stolen. Stolen items are gone forever. Safe inns cost
    money to rest in, but you'll never get anything stolen either. My advice: don't
    be cheap, stay in the safe inns.
    Trainers increase your Weapon skills. Each Trainer specializes in four types of
    weapons. You'll have to pay a fee to train, and then you pick a weapon to train
    in. Once you've picked your weapon, you choose whether or not you want to train
    Offensively or Defensively. Finally, you're asked how many Skill Points you
    want in that weapon. Each skill point takes 100 Adventure Points, and you can
    train up to 5 points at once.
    One thing to note about trainers is that they have certain skills in weapons,
    too. Every trainer will only be able to bring your skill levels up to a certain
    amount before there's nothing more they can teach you. Also, advanced trainers
    may require you to have a certain amount of skill with a weapon before they can
    teach you.
    Trainers will not teach you if by training 5 points in a weapon, you'll exceed
    their maximum level. For example, Morag the Merciless will train your Mace
    skill up to a level of 60. If you train Mace up to 56, though, he won't train
    you any more, because if you bought 5 skill points that would bring you up to
    61, one point past his maximum. Since all trainers' maximums are multiples of
    five, it's best if you train your weapon skills five points at a time to be
    It's also worth noting that when you train with a weapon, you gain skill in all
    weapons of that class. If you should find a special weapon either from a quest
    or dropped by an enemy that matches a class you've trained in, you can use your
    weapon skill for it too--for example the Truth Sword can be used with a
    character that has Greatsword skill. Check out the "Special Weapons" section
    for more info in this vein.
    Every 2,000 Adventure Points you spend at at a Trainer, you become eligible to
    gain a level in the Arena. Until you gain a level at the Arena, you cannot
    receive any more training.
    Junk shops and Specialty shops sell random garbage that won't do your party any
    practical good. For example there's a Ship Chandler that sells pipes and
    tobacco in Htron, which you can't do anything with. Most of the time you can
    ignore these stores, unless they are willing to buy your stuff, in which case
    you can use them to offload your loot. There are, however, a few junk stores
    with potentially useful items. For example you can buy a nice sword and helmet
    at the Jeweler's in Poitle Lock.
    Stables sell you horses. Horses increase your movement rate, and that has two
    big advantages in the game. First, your movement rate affects speed on the
    overworld; you can move more distance in a day when riding a horse and the
    better the horse, the greater amount of distance you can cover in the same time.
    Second, and more importantly, horses will allow you to run from battles before
    they start. If you're riding a horse, when you get into a random encounter,
    instead of going straight into battle, you'll see a text message, the contents
    of which depend upon what you've encountered. You'll be asked if you want to
    ride away. If you choose "Yes" then there's a chance you'll be able to escape;
    you'll always be able to escape from healers or Brettle Regulars (not that
    you'd want to) but if you'd be facing a monster there's a chance that you won't
    be able to. The better the horse you're riding, the better the chance that
    you'll be able to get away.
    Note that your party's movement rate is only as good as the slowest member of
    your party. If even one of your party members is on foot you get no horse
    bonuses at all. If five members of your party are on Heavy Warhorses and the
    other is on a Draft Horse, you only get the movement and evasion rates of a
    Draft Horse, and so forth.
    Whether it's just a person's house or a store, you can talk to anyone you meet
    to get information. Some people offer no useful information whatsoever, whereas
    others will give you quests or other sorts of important clues. You can either
    "Listen" (ear Icon) or "Talk." (mouth Icon) Listen allows you to hear rumors,
    and Talk allows you to ask about a specific subject. Generally, if any topic is
    capitalized in conversation, you can Talk about it and get more information. At
    some point you might hear "I heard *** talking about that!" The "***" person
    will always be located in the same settlement; go talk to him/her about the
    topic and you may get more information. Also, it doesn't hurt to ask around
    about topics that may seem to be of general interest. For example, ask around
    about Pildar, the main villain of the game; there's at least one quest that
    you'll get by asking around about him.
    C.03 THE ARENA
    The Arena is a special settlement. There's only one thing you can do there;
    fight! Anyone who is eligible for gaining a level can fight in the Arena. Arena
    fights are one-on-one battles, and the enemy you're up against is determined
    randomly from all enemy types. If you win the battle, you go up a level. If you
    lose, you don't go up a level, and the monster you fought gets to loot you.
    Before one of your characters enter the Arena, you can opt to bet on (or
    against) them, up to a maximum of 99 Gold. Each character in your party can
    only bet once. If you're low on cash, you can strip your unfortunate comrade of
    all their equipment and bet against them, then throw the fight...though there
    are better ways to make money.
                                    SECTION D: COMBAT
    The fighting system of Knights of Legend is where the game really shines. Even
    to this day, more than fifteen years after the game was released, I have yet to
    see a combat system in another game that even comes close to comparing to its
    detail and realism.
    D.01 THE ROUND
    A KOL round is divided into two phases; a planning phase, and then an action
    phase. During the planning phase, you decide the actions of your party members
    and the computer selects the enemies' actions. Once you've finished entering
    all your characters' combat commands, the action phase goes into effect, and
    all the characters and enemies perform their commands.
    At the beginning of each Planning phase, all of the characters and enemies have
    a random number added (or subtracted) to their Foresight score. The order in
    which each character or enemy picks their actions for the next round is
    determined by the results, the lowest picking first. (In other words, the
    characters/enemies with the lowest Foresight usually end up picking their
    actions first)
    If you target an enemy, sometimes you'll see an action listed next to its
    status display. If you see this, it shows that your character has foreseen and
    interpreted the enemy's "body language" to determine what the enemy will do
    next turn. Whether or not you see this depends on both the character's
    Foresight and Intellect. You'll only get to see the actions of enemies who have
    already had their turn to pick their action, and as the order of who picks
    first is determined by Foresight, the higher your Foresight, the better chance
    the enemies will act first and you'll get a chance to see what it's planning.
    However, even if an enemy DOES pick its action first, that doesn't necessarily
    mean that you'll get to see what it picks. That chance depends on your
    character's Intellect. A high Foresight gives you the chance to pick your
    action later in the planning phase; a high Intellect gives you a better chance
    to interpret your enemy's body language. So, a character with high Foresight
    will get more chances to interpret enemy actions; a character with high
    Intellect will succeed more often in making the interpretation.
    Predicting enemy moves is incredibly useful in determining your course of
    action the following move. If you're a melee fighter, it can help you decide
    the best offense and defense to use against your target. If you're an archer,
    predictions will help you know where to aim your arrows the following round to
    strike a moving target. For this reason, high Foresight and Intellect are good
    things to have on all your characters.
    Here is a description of all the icons you'll see in battle, and what they're
    OK (Thumbs up): Confirms your action.
    U-TURN (looping arrow):
    Go back a level or undo a choice.
    MOVE (Walking man):
    Move your character (see movement icons below)
    ATTACK (Sword):
    Enters melee combat with your weapon (see armed combat icons below)
    FIST (Fist):
    Enters melee combat with your fists and feet (see unarmed combat icons below)
    FIRE (Bow and Arrow):
    Fires a missile weapon at the enemy. You only get 20 arrows or bolts per combat.
    Select your target and then fire. If you're playing the Apple II version,
    there's a chance that any character, be it friend or enemy, that stands between
    you and your target will get in the way and take your arrow/bolt. Technically
    this is supposed to be possible in the DOS version too, though I've never, ever
    seen a missile hit anywhere but the square it was targeted at. Note that you
    cannot aim missile weapons at specific parts of the body; however, missiles can
    hit any part of the target, regardless of its size and the size of the
    character firing.
    LOAD (Crossbow with arrow):
    Reloads your crossbow. Every time you fire a bolt with your crossbow, you have
    to spend a turn cranking it up and reloading it before you can fire it again.
    DROP: (Sword with down arrow below it):
    Drops whatever you're currently carrying and puts it on the space you're
    standing on. Multiple items can stack. Note that if you're flying, you'll drop
    the item on the ground and won't be able to pick it up until you land. If you
    drop the weapon somewhere you CAN'T land (like on top of a wall or in water)
    you'll have to wait until the end of the battle before you can pick it up again.
    PICK UP: (Sword with up arrow above it):
    Pick up whatever's currently lying on the ground beneath your character. Note
    that your hands must be empty before doing this, or you'll just waste your turn.
    If you're standing on a pile of items, you will be prompted for each before you
    pick it up.
    READY (Sword in scabbard with up arrow):
    Pull the weapon currently in your belt out and wield it. Obviously an important
    thing to do; you don't want to fight enemies unarmed!
    SHEATH (Sword in scabbard with down arrow):
    Puts the weapon you're currently holding in your belt. Note this will NOT work
    for missile weapons like crossbows or bows. This is a useful command if you're
    faced with an overwhelming force and want to run; you won't drop sheathed
    weapons when fleeing battle.
    SWITCH (Sword and axe with arrow between it):
    Trades the weapon in your hand with the weapon in your belt. Note this will
    ONLY work with two melee weapons. Since you cannot belt missile weapons, you
    can't swap them; if you've got a melee weapon in your belt and are holding a
    bow, you'll have to drop the bow one turn and draw your melee weapon the next.
    MAGIC (Hand with sparks around it):
    Cast a spell from the character's list of known spells. Note that characters
    can only cast spells if they're not holding a weapon. You can specify whether
    you want the effect to be Positive or Negative (Positive for your friends,
    Negative for your enemies, obviously) and pick your target. If you're using a
    close-range spell, when the spell actually gets cast, you may also be asked
    what part of the target's body you want the spell to affect.
    LAND (Kelden with arrows pointing down):
    If your character is currently flying, you can use this command to land. Note
    that you can't land everywhere that you can fly over. (e.g. no landing in
    WALK: (Man walking)
    Walking will move your character one space. Walking takes very little if any
    stamina (only a character far too heavily armored for his/her own good and/or
    severely injured will lose stamina walking) but is the slowest movement type,
    and usually takes place later in the round, unless the walking character is
    extremely fast.
    RUN: (Man running)
    This is like walking in that it moves your character one space, but it's a fast
    movement so it tends to happen earlier in the round rather than later. It also
    takes more stamina to run than to walk. Any characters wearing Speed Boots will
    move two spaces Running.
    SPRINT: (Man running fast)
    This is the fastest ground movement; characters Sprinting will move two spaces
    in a round. Movement to the second space will always take place after all other
    characters have acted. Sprinting is good for covering longer distances quickly,
    but it takes a lot of stamina; only the most lightly armored character will be
    able to Sprint without taking a Stamina hit. Any characters wearing Speed Boots
    will move four spaces Sprinting.
    FLY: (Kelden with wings straight up)
    This command will have your character fly one space. After any flying movement,
    the character will be airborne and will not be able to do any land-based
    actions (like melee attacks) unless they land first. Flying is generally faster
    than walking, but has a heavier stamina drain as well.
    FLY FASTER: (Kelden with wings slightly down)
    Fly Faster is like Sprinting in the air; your character will move two spaces in
    a round. It takes a lot of Stamina so is not recommended for heavily armored
    ZOOM: (Kelden with wings almost parallel to the ground):
    Zoom is the fastest movement; it's flying, only it moves three spaces in a
    round. It also takes an immense amount of stamina; even a lightly armored
    Kelden will take huge hits to stamina with it. Smaller races wearing the flying
    cloak, however, may be able to do this without taking a stamina hit...
    Armed attack involves three choices; an attack type, an attack location, and a
    defense type.
    NONE: (Man shrugging his shoulders)
    If you don't want to attack at all (usually to devote all your effort to
    defense) pick this option; you won't attack at all the following round.
    HACK: (Axe chopping)
    This is a powerful overhead swing, using the force of gravity to add power to
    the weapon. It's the most powerful of the three standard attack types, and also
    takes the least stamina, but is also the slowest.
    SLASH: (Sword Slashing)
    Slash is a horizontal/diagonal slash with the weapon. It's not quite as
    powerful as a Hack attack, and uses a little bit more Stamina, but is
    substantially faster.
    THRUST: (Sword Stabbing)
    Thrusts are a quick, stabbing motion with your weapon. It's the most fatiguing
    and least powerful of the three attack modes, but it's also the fastest, which
    counts for a lot, as enemies that take a hit before they attack are less likely
    to connect.
    BERSERK (Berserker with shield):
    Berserk is a special attack; unlike the three standard attack types
    (Hack/Slash/Thrust) it cannot be targeted (it always targets the chest) and you
    cannot choose any defense (you'll automatically use a Standing defense) It's
    also more fatiguing and slower than any of other attack types, but it does a
    lot more damage, too.
    HIGH SHOT (Arrow at head):
    This attack targets the upper body. Upper Body attacks usually hit the arms,
    and can hit the chest as well, but will never hit the legs. If your character
    is targeting an enemy substantially larger than his or her height, they may not
    get the option to use this type of attack. (The height differential appears to
    differ by race--a 3' dwarf can High Shot a Sledge more than 3 times his height,
    but a 7' Kelder can't High Shot a Sylph that's a bit less than 2 1/2 times his
    BODY SHOT (Arrow at chest):
    This attack targets the middle body. Middle Body attacks usually hit the torso,
    but they can hit anywhere else on the body as well.
    LOW SHOT (Arrow at legs):
    This attack targets the lower body. Lower Body attacks usually hit the legs,
    and can hit the chest as well, but will never hit the head (and almost never
    hit the arms either).
    Defense types pick the manner in which you attempt to avoid enemy blows. Note
    that this is separate from parrying blows; (that's determined by weapon defense
    skill) a character using no defense at all can still parry incoming blows.
    NONE (Man shrugging):
    Use this if you don't want to defend at all. There will be no chance to dodge
    blows if you use this, but it doesn't take any stamina either. (You can still
    parry though) Use this if your Foresight has shown that you're not going to be
    attacked the following round.
    STAND (Man Standing):
    The manual says that a standing defense is better than no defense at all, but
    as far as I can tell, there's really no difference, except that a Standing
    defense takes a little Stamina. Unless "but narrowly misses him/her" counts as
    dodging text (and it might, I don't know) I've never seen a standing defense
    successfully dodge anything. Maybe it gives you a boost to parrying.
    BACK UP: (Man backing up)
    Attempts to avoid an enemy attack by backing up. Backing up takes more stamina
    than a Standing defense, but is much more effective, though not as much so as
    Jumping or Ducking.
    DODGE: (Man dodging to the side)
    Attempts to avoid an enemy attack by dodging to the side. Dodging is very
    similar to backing up, and in terms of effectiveness, they don't seem to be too
    different. I have noticed that Dodging seems to be slightly more effective than
    backing up, though it may just be my imagination.
    Ducking is a very effective evasion technique, but it takes a lot of stamina.
    Ducking is especially effective against High attacks, but be forewarned there's
    actually a minor dodging penalty for using Ducking against Low attacks. (You
    can still dodge a low attack by ducking, but it's harder)
    Jumping is a lot like Ducking, only it's more tailor-made for avoiding low
    attacks. As with Ducking, Jumping gives you a minor defense penalty when used
    against a High attack.
    PANIC: (character running away with sword dropped)
    Panic Defend is the most effective form of attack in the game; your character
    will hunker down and cover him/herself up, which allows a very good chance for
    dodging or deflecting blows. The downside is that this kind of defense is very
    fatiguing, and you can't attack at all when using it. (If you picked an attack
    type before, it will automatically switch to "NONE" upon picking PANIC)
    Unarmed attacks are allowed an attack type and a defense type, but not an
    attack location; they are always aimed at the body. Unarmed attacks are also
    extremely ineffective, and, by in large, not worth using at all as offensive
    maneuvers; unless your character is ridiculously strong, even the most powerful
    unarmed attack will often be absorbed completely by even the lightest armor.
    The only advantage of unarmed attacks is that they are extremely fast, and if
    they do connect, will still reduce the target's chance of hitting.
    PUNCH: (Man punching)
    Punches are the fastest and most likely of the unarmed attacks to connect, but
    they do absolutely pathetic damage, and will almost undoubtedly be absorbed
    completely by the enemy's armor.
    BASH: (Man jabbing elbow)
    A bash is an elbow/forearm bash at the enemy. It does more damage than a Punch
    but is less likely to hit.
    KICK: (Man kicking)
    A Kick does about the same amount of damage as a Bash, only it uses the legs
    rather than the arms as weapons. Overall this is probably the most effective
    unarmed attack (which isn't saying much) as it uses your legs instead of arms,
    and the only time you'll probably be resorting to unarmed attacks is if your
    arms are disabled for whatever reason.
    HEADBUTT: (Man doing headbutt)
    The Headbutt is the most damaging of the unarmed attacks, but it rarely hits.
    If it does connect though, it does almost as much damage as if you were using a
    very weak weapon--if you connect, you're more likely to deal an actual wound
    with a headbutt than any other unarmed attack.
    Once you finish inputting commands for your entire party, you'll get three
    icons: OK, U-TURN, and FLEE. (Run looks like the "PANIC DEFENSE" icon) OK
    starts the round.
    U-Turn starts the round completely over again so you can re-make all your
    decisions. However, when you do this, all the enemies re-make all their
    decisions too, and to keep you from cheating to forecast enemy actions, your
    Foresight and Intellect predictions become completely unreliable; quite
    frequently they will be flat-out wrong and monsters will do something
    completely different than what you predicted they would. Once the action phase
    for that round is finished, however, your predictions will go back to normal.
    If you choose to Flee, your party will flee the battle. (You'll be asked for
    confirmation) If you do choose to run, your party will always escape, but if
    they're carrying any melee weapons in their hands there's a chance they'll drop
    them. (about 50% chance in the Apple II version, and a much higher chance in
    the DOS version) Belted weapons and missile weapons will never be dropped. And,
    of course, any items left on the field are gone forever. Since unconscious
    characters automatically drop their weapons, you'll lose them if you run,
    unless you have another character pick it up. (and belt it, if it's a melee
    weapon) Bottom line is that running is a fairly safe thing to do, but make sure
    all your weapons are in their sheaths before you flee for the hills. There is
    one exception, however, and that is if any of your characters have been knocked
    out during the battle. Characters left unconscious on the field of battle when
    the party runs will generally be looted clean.
    Once all characters and enemies have made their decisions, the action starts.
    Generally, the characters/enemies with the highest Quickness attributes act
    first, but this is modified by their armor weight, action choice, and a random
    number thrown into the mix. So, for example, a heavily-armored character with a
    high Quickness may move after a slower character with lighter armor, and a
    slower character that's using a fast action type (like Running or Thrusting)
    may move before a faster character using a slower action. (like Walking or
    Berserking) Characters that are injured or fatigued also incur Quickness
    penalties, so may attack later rather than sooner.
    When one character targets another with a weapon, the first thing the system
    does is check to see whether or not the attack hits. The attacker's chance to
    hit is based on his or her Strength value and Offensive weapon skill, and the
    defender's chance to avoid is based on his or her Quickness value and Defensive
    weapon skill, plus a shield bonus if the character is equipping a shield. (All
    of these of course are modified with random numbers) The first thing the system
    checks is to see whether the blow is on target; this is the only thing that is
    checked for missile attacks, as missile attacks can be neither dodged nor
    parried. (Missile attacks also have a greater chance to miss, even with a high
    skill) If it is a missile attack, it may be stopped by a tree or a wall en
    route to the target. (Melee attacks are never stopped by trees or walls) If the
    blow is on target, the next thing the system does is check to see whether the
    target successfully dodges the attack. (Dodging being one of the defense types
    you pick) If the target does not successfully dodge the attack, then lastly the
    game checks to see whether or not the blow is parried, and this is decided
    entirely on defensive weapon skill.
    There are a whole bunch of modifiers that can be applied to make attacks more
    or less likely to hit. The biggest one is wounds and fatigue; a wounded and/or
    fatigued character will have less of a chance of hitting and dodging. Also
    attack and defense types can modify chances to hit; ducking a High Shot gives
    you a defense bonus for example. (and a defense penalty against a Low Shot)
    Also, the number of times a character has attacked or defended affects chances.
    A character that has been hit before his/her turn will be shaken up and have
    less of a chance of landing an attack. You have less of a chance to defend
    every time you successfully parry a blow as well; it takes a very high
    defensive skill to parry multiple blows in a single round. Also, you have a
    better chance of defending against the target you're attacking than other
    enemies that may be targeting you during the current round.
    If a blow hits, the part of the body hits is random, but is affected by the
    type of attack. (high vs. low shot, etc) The damage done depends on the
    attacker's strength and weapon type, subtracted by the armor rating of the part
    of the body hit. If the armor rating is higher than the damage done, the blow
    will "do little damage" and you won't actually be wounded. (However, penalties
    for being hit still apply) The actual damge done is subtracted from the body
    points alotted to that specific body part; if the body part runs out of body
    points, it is incapacitated. If the body part in question is the head or chest,
    then the target dies (if it's an enemy) or is knocked out. (if it's a player
    If an arm or leg is incapacitated, it has several effects. First, if the victim
    hasn't made any action yet during the combat round, his/her action is negated
    from the shock of losing the use of a limb. Note that this applies to every
    subsequent attack on that limb; if a character gets her left arm incapacitated,
    every further hit she takes on her left arm won't reduce its Body points (as
    they're already zero) but will still negate her ability to do anything for that
    round. If it's an arm that is incapacitated, you won't be able to make any
    further two-handed weapon attacks for the duration of combat. If both arms are
    incapacitated, you won't be able to make any weapon attacks at all for the
    duration of combat. If a leg is incapacitated, it reduces your movement speed
    greatly, vastly increases Fatigue cost for movement, and prevents you from
    Running or Sprinting. If magically healed, disabled limbs can be restored to
    normal function. If you're playing the Apple II version, disabled limbs work
    the same for the player as for the enemies; if you're playing the DOS version,
    the game cheats, and enemies with both arms disabled can still attack using
    their weapons.
    These are probably the two biggest things to keep an eye on in combat, as they
    greatly affect your proficiency in battle. A fresh warrior, unwounded and
    unwinded, is simply a better fighter than one who's been hurt and/or is tired.
    In terms of overall battle performance, Fatigue is more a factor than wounds;
    an exhausted fighter is less effective than one who's got full Fatigue but has
    a wound or two. The more Fatigued your character is, the worse his/her penalty;
    a character at 10% Fatigue will be hard-pressed to land or dodge any type of
    Fatigue regenerates a little bit for each character every round, based on their
    Endurance and Health scores. This value is reduced depending on the action that
    the character takes, plus his or her total encumbrance. (mostly determined by
    armor weight) If the Fatigue regeneration value minus the action/encumbrance
    value is negative, then the character loses that much fatigue the following
    round, plus any penalties for hits and the like. Non-strenuous actions like
    walking will almost never reduce fatigue (unless the character is horribly
    over-armored or heavily wounded) and may even restore a little bit. Very
    lightly-encumbered characters may even restore Fatigue doing strenuous actions
    like Sprinting. Resting is the only action that has a "negative" Fatigue
    penalty. Casting a spell will ALWAYS result in a fatigue loss, no matter what
    the strength of the spell.
    In addition to action and encumbrance penalties, there are other things that
    will negatively affect your Fatigue during a combat round. First and foremost,
    if you take a hit during a combat round, that takes a good chunk of Fatigue
    from the shock of the blow. More importantly however, every time you are
    wounded your character "bleeds" from the wound, which saps a little bit of your
    Fatigue every combat round thereafter, depending on the severity of the wound;
    a terrible wound takes more Fatigue than a minor one. Even if a character's
    wounds are healed during battle through magic, this "bleeding" penalty still
    applies. Since you get bleeding penalties for every wound, a character with
    many wounds will see their Fatigue levels drain like water through a sieve. If
    you get wounded enough, you may get so that even Resting reduces your fatigue--
    at that point, your character is basically out of the battle.
    Wounds carry over between battles, but not in a one-to-one fashion; that is, if
    you get your arm disabled in one battle, it won't be disabled in the next one.
    What the game appears to do is calculate all the Body Point loss you've taken
    and divide that evenly amongst all your body parts for the next battle; they'll
    all still be functional, but will take less damage to incapacitate than normal.
    Bleeding penalties carry over too; a character wounded badly enough will keel
    over when hit with a light breeze upon entering a new battle.
    One thing that's worth noting is that while characters can be beaten badly to
    the point of being worthless in battle, it's impossible for them to actually
    die. There comes a point when a character is so badly wounded that the most
    minor of wounds will knock them out, but that only detracts a little from your
    Health bar in the status screen. Once I practiced by beating up a hapless
    character with the rest of my party over and over again, knocking him out over
    20 times. There came a point where no matter how many wounds he sustained, his
    health bar never depleted any more nor did healing charges increase. True, it
    was only taking one hit to knock him out, and walking one step in battle would
    reduce his fatigue by 3/4, but he wouldn't die.
    It doesn't make that big of a difference, but Nutrition can play a part in your
    combat prowess as well. It doesn't really show until your characters have been
    suffering for really bad malnutrition for a while, (ie your Nutrition bar is
    less than half) but poorly-fed characters do less damage with their blows,
    dodge attacks less often, and have their Fatigue drop more quickly. As
    wandering healers also fill your Nutrition bars this should rarely be a problem
    for you, but it's worth keeping in mind.
    D.03d MAGIC
    All in all, magic takes a back seat in Knights of Legend to melee combat,
    though it can still be quite useful in its own right. It's actually quite
    powerful in that it can essentially be used as a missile weapon with unlimited
    ammo that never misses, but it has its drawbacks as well, namely that it drains
    Fatigue faster than any other action in the game. For more info on the magic
    system in KOL, check out that section of the guide. Note that in order to cast
    any spells in combat, your character must either belt or drop any weapon they
    may be carrying; both hands must be free to cast spells. (Having one or both
    arms disabled or equipping a shield does not affect the ability to use spells
    What types of attacks you'll want to use will vary depending on what weapon
    you're using. Some weapons are just not made for certain attack types; a
    Greatsword is a great hacking and slashing weapon, but is too big to stab with
    effectively. If your weapon is ineffective with a certain attack type, you
    should use another type, as the hit and damage penalty is pretty big otherwise.
    Overall, I find the Thrust to be the most useful attack type because it's the
    fastest; it may do less damage than a hack or a slash, but if you land a
    successful hit on an enemy before it has a chance to attack, it'll be far less
    likely to be able to hit back in the same round. However, it's worth noting
    that a lot of really good weapons aren't good with Thrusts; in this case I use
    Slashes with them if I'm going for speed, and Hacks if I'm not, or if I have
    another character Thrusting at the same enemy. The only time I ever use Berserk
    attacks is when I know that the character Berserking isn't being targeted;
    while the strongest attack type in the game, Berserk attacks are slow, easy to
    defend against, and the Berserking character is easier to hit. As for the
    unarmed combat options--don't use them, they're a waste. Most won't ever
    penetrate the armor anyway; the only time you should use them is if your
    character has had their arm(s) disabled and you're ready to let them get KOed
    by the enemy.
    Bows are incredibly useful in this game, as they cannot be dodged or blocked
    and in addition to be able to being able to damage your enemy from afar.
    Crossbows are not so useful, as you have to reload them every time you fire,
    which is a major detriment in most cases. You should probably have at least 3
    members of your party be archers in some form or another. However, you are
    pretty much limited to having each character be primarily an archer or
    primarily a melee fighter; the two do not mix. The idea of shooting your enemy
    then drawing your sword when they get close, while good in theory, is not so
    good in practice. It takes two turns to go from being armed with a bow to being
    armed with a melee weapon (one turn to drop the bow, another to draw the
    weapon) and seeing as you cannot fire at an enemy more than 5 squares away,
    this means that more often than you like you'll be caught with your pants down
    trying to pull out your sword while the enemy descends upon you. Firing a bow
    is also a relatively slow action, so it's important for your archers to have
    high Foresight, and preferably high Intellect as well. Except when facing the
    slowest enemies with a very fast character, you're usually better off firing
    your bow at the space your target is going to move to, rather than the one
    they're already standing in. This is because since firing a bow is a slow
    action, frequently your enemies will move before you have a chance to get your
    shot off. If you target the space you know the enemy will be moving to, you'll
    find yourself shooting empty spaces a lot less. Archers should generally be
    lightly armored, as they may find themselves having to run or sprint frequently.
    Also, flying archers are very useful; you can shoot the enemies but they can't
    hit you. (they can still shoot back at you though)
    The ideal spot to be when firing missile weapons is in a doorway. When you are
    standing in a doorway, you are immune to all incoming missile attacks, as they
    will always hit the wall, rather than you. (Note that this works the other way
    around too; you cannot shoot a monster standing in a doorway) If there is no
    doorway available, then standing on the same square as a tree is the next best
    thing; frequently (but not always) enemy missiles will hit the tree rather than
    you. If you can shoot at the enemy when they can't shoot back, you've got a big
    D.04c MAGIC
    It helps to have one or two mages in your party. If you want a combat mage, you
    should have him or her buy spells from all the different magic schools in the
    game before actually joining one of them. I suggest having your combat mage buy
    at least: 1 spell from the White Pearl order (to affect Humans) 4 spells from
    the Black Onyx order, (for Legendary creatures), 4 spells from the Secret Storm
    order (for Giants) 2 from the Red Mist order (for Elementals) and 2 spells from
    the Dark Stone order (for Undead). Don't buy any spells from the Blue Gem order,
    as they are useless offensively. The rest is up to you. I find that Secret
    Storm and Black Onyx are generally the best orders to join, as there are more
    Giant and Legendary monsters than others. As Giants seem to be the most common,
    I prefer Black Onyx myself. As a rule of thumb, only buy Body-damaging spells
    as they are the only ones that are really effective. Note that as combat
    actions go, casting spells is quite speedy; unlike when targeting missile
    weapons, you're usually better off targeting your enemy directly, rather than
    the space it will move to, as odds are you'll get the spell off early in the
    A defensive mage is also very useful, and should have their spells exclusively
    from the White Pearl and Blue Gem orders, though this will depend a lot on your
    party makeup. (If your party is all Humans, there's no need for any Blue Gem
    spells, for example) Since stamina spells, and to a lesser extent, long-range
    healing spells aren't very useful, I usually have my defensive mage mod her
    spells of that type so that they affect attack/defense ratings.
    Modding spells, especially offensively, can make your mage deadly, but use
    moderation--don't give in to the temptation to make the nastiest spell you can,
    as you'll regret it. For example, a spell that does 4-48 damage to a Cliff
    Troll takes about half of my combat mage's Stamina. And it goes without saying
    that heavy armor on a mage is generally a bad idea, as that will make the
    Stamina loss much worse.
    D.04e ARMOR
    Heavier armor is better than light armor at the beginning of the game, when
    your characters have low Defensive skill in their weapons, but you may
    eventually want to trade in your heavy armor for lighter armor once you get
    good with your weapon for the Fatigue bonus. As a rule of thumb, you should
    pick out armor based on your character's Size and Strength; if your character
    is a melee character and loses any fatigue at all with anything less than a
    Berserk attack, your armor is probably too heavy. If your character is an
    archer or scout, and loses any fatigue when Sprinting, they're also probably
    too heavily armored--in fact, since archers and scouts will rarely if ever get
    in close and dirty, cloth or leather is about as high as they'll ever need to
    go. The extra protection afforded by heavy armor is good when an enemy's blow
    gets through, but once your fatigue bar starts to go down, you'll be far less
    likely to land and evade blows, and that can be a problem.
    In terms of what armor to wear by race for melee fighters:
    Kelden: Scale at the absolute most, and even then that will have to be mixed
    with some lighter armor. Ring is probably a more balanced choice.
    Elves: Ring is about as high as you want to go for an Elf; they're not strong
    enough to go any higher than that. Elves aren't cut out for heavy armor.
    Humans: Depends a whole lot on the character class. Barbarians and Highwaymen
    can afford to wear heavier stuff like Chain or even Plate. Other higher-
    strength Human classes like Rangers or Amazons can sometimes get by with Chain
    but are better off with Scale. Weaker classes like Hunters or Rogues are best
    off with light stuff like Cloth or Leather.
    Dwarves: Whatever you want, really. If you're a Tunneler/Digger, you can
    probably even afford to go for full Plate, though mixing some Chain or lighter
    is probaly a good idea too. Other Dwarven classes will probably do better with
    Scale-class armor.
    In terms of deciding what parts of the body should get heavier armor, I prefer
    to put the heaviest stuff on the head, as head armor is generally pretty light
    and the head doesn't get that many Body Points. The most important decision is
    what to use as Body armor, as that covers both the chest and arms. I usually
    have the Body armored one "level" below the head; while you want the body armor
    nice and protected, Body armor weighs a whole lot, so that needs to be balanced.
    For the legs, it actually doesn't matter too terribly much; I usually keep my
    characters' legs substantially less protected than the rest of the body; for
    example someone wearing Scale on the body would get something like Ring for the
    legs. This has two advantages; first, as melee fighters generally don't run
    around a lot, the legs don't need as much protection, so it's not worth wasting
    armor weight down there. Second, and more importantly, with the legs
    substantially less well-armored, it acts as "bait;" when fighting an uninjured
    character, enemies generally shoot for the least-armored area--in this case,
    that means lots of Low Strikes. Therefore, even if you can't foresee what an
    enemy is going to do, you can make an educated guess and have use Jump as your
    main defense, as they'll probably aim for the legs. Plus, if an enemy DOES
    connect with a low strike, the head can't be hit at all, and the chance of
    hitting the arms is greatly reduced as well.
    A final note: Never give anybody Fur, Cuirbolli, or Brigandine anything. Fur
    weighs more than Cloth but gives the same protection; Cuirbolli and Brigandine
    weigh exactly the same as Ring and Chain respectively, but also give less
    D.04f WEAPONS
    There are a ton of different weapons that you can train in in Knights of
    Legend; with a skilled wielder, any will be sufficient, but here are a few that
    I feel are the most useful:
    It sounds silly to waste training points in a weapon as weak and simple as a
    Club, but the Giant class of enemies drop ridiculously powerful clubs that do
    damage on par with any of the big two-handed weapons in the game. The caveat is
    that these Giant clubs are extremely heavy, so you'll need a very strong
    character to use them without massive fatigue loss. Some of the Giant Clubs
    (notably those dropped by Stone Ogres) are two-handed weapons that don't use
    Club skill though.
    The Mace by itself is not such a great weapon, but the Spiny Mace that
    Binderaks carry is one of the most balanced one-handed weapons in the game, and
    uses Mace skill.
    The Scimitar is an excellent backup weapon for your archers; it doesn't do much
    damage but it's light, and can also be trained to higher proficiency levels
    than any other weapon in the game without cheating.
    Trolls, Djinn, Sylphs, and Minotaurs all drop powerful War Maul-type weapons.
    The down side is that these weapons are very heavy, so you'll need a very
    strong character to use them effectively.
    Both the Death Blade and the Magic Ingot customized weapons are Halberds (you
    get both of them in quests) and are deadly weapons, so Halberd is a very good
    skill to consider investing in. Halberds on their own are also very versatile
    weapons, and one of the few two-handers that can are effective with Thrusting
    Greatswords on their own are very powerful weapons, but the Truth Sword you'll
    get early in the game is even better, and also uses Greatsword skill. The
    downside to Greatsword skill is that you can't train it very high without
    The best weapon in the game is a Great Axe. However, as it's the reward for
    completing the game, you won't be able to use it except until after you finish
    the game.
    ELF BOW:
    Simply the best long-range weapon in the game. To learn Elf Bow without
    cheating, you'll have to be a Thism or Usip elf, as the in-game trainer won't
    teach any characters from scratch.
    Especially with melee weapons, it pays to pick one (or maybe two) weapon types
    and stick with it throughout the entire game. At the beginning of the game it
    won't make much difference, but when you reach higher levels, enemies' weapons
    skills will increase rapidly, and if you've been dividing your skill points
    between multiple weapon types, you may find yourself outclassed by enemies
    whose skill levels greatly surpass your own.
    In most of the quest descriptions, I mention the "Ambush Strategy." The
    Ambush Strategy is the method I find to be the most effective when doing quests,
    which invariably pit you against a very large force of enemies. It's effective
    because it allows you to kill enemies without taking much damage, and sometimes
    with none at all. The basic concept of the strategy is to utilize the layout of
    the mission and spring a trap on the enemy by luring them into a spot where
    multiple melee fighters can all hit them simultaneously.
    To spring an effective ambush, you'll need at least three melee fighters, and
    one scout. Your scout should be a very fast but lightly-armored character,
    armed with a bow. Elves make especially good scouts, and the female Usip elf is
    my personal favorite for this role, as she gets skill in the Elf Bow. You'll
    also need to find a one-tile opening to spring your trap on. You'll want to set
    it up in the following manner (variations are possible, of course.
    S = Scout                             E
    E = Enemy                                            <-----UNEXPLORED TERRITORY
    M = Melee Fighter                     S
    A = Archer (Optional)      ########### ###########
                                         M M
           KNOWN "SAFE" AREA --->      A  M  A
    Your Scout will run into unexplored territory looking for enemies, then lure
    them into into the opening, where all three of your melee fighters will be able
    to attack it. Note that to start with, the central melee fighter is not
    parallel with the left and right melee fighter; this is to allow a space for
    your scout to slip behind your melee fighters. (If your scout is wearing the
    Flying cloak or for some weird reason you're using a Kelden scout, you don't
    have to do this; you can just have them fly over the ranks of your melee
    fighters) Note that you'll have to keep some distance between the scout and the
    enemy you're luring to pull this off effectively. Once your scout is safely
    behind your melee fighters, move your central melee fighter up like below:
    * Spot to attack in                   E
                                       A S   A
    At this point, you're perfectly in position. As there's only one space that the
    enemy "E" can move to get to your party, which is where you'll cut it to
    ribbons. Have all three of your melee fighters (and your archers, too, if you
    really want to add insult to injury) target the spot marked "*" with berserker
    attacks. True, there's no enemy at that spot at the moment, but at the next
    turn it's pretty much assured to step there, which will give you 3 (or 6) free
    attacks on it with it putting up NO defense. (Note that if your melee fighters
    are too fast, or your enemy too slow, you may end up attacking thin air the
    next turn, but that's not going to be a big deal) If you're lucky, you may kill
    the enemy outright without it even getting off a single attack. And even if
    you're not, the enemy will be injured and at a disadvantage the next round.
    This formation also keeps multiple enemies from getting to you at once.
    The following variation is the "concealed ambush formation." It's not as
    effective as a straight-up ambush formation, but sometimes it's the best method
    to use, either when you don't have a one-tile opening to work with, or for
    dealing with certain types of enemies; namely, those that make extensive use of
    missile attacks. In the standard ambush formation, missile-happy enemies will
    frequently stop chasing your scout and start taking potshots at your party when
    they get close.
                                      A M  \
                                      A M   --> Scout runs this way
    This formation keeps your party out of the enemy's line-of-sight, so that they
    can't fire on you. When the enemy does finally get a glimpse of your main force,
    it'll be near enough that your melee fighters can close on it and force it into
    melee combat. You won't get that free attack that the standard ambush allows,
    but it will let you get a one-on-three fight.
    This strategy is especially important in some of the later quests, when you're
    up against bruisers like Giants and the like. A straight-up fight against
    powerful, hardy enemies like that is suicide, no matter how good your party is.
                                    SECTION E: MAGIC
    Magic takes a back seat to melee combat in Knights of Legend, but is still a
    very useful tool; spells can do more damage than any weapon in the game, though
    the price for using them is high.
    To cast spell in Knights of Legend, first you have to know one. The various
    magic schools in Ashtalarea can teach you spells for a price, and you can learn
    up to 16 in total. Once you've learned a spell, you can cast it in battle;
    however, your hands must be free, though you can equip a shield. Once you
    select a target for your spell, you can decide whether the effect will be
    positive or negative. (Obviously, there's no reason to positively affect your
    enemies, or negatively affect your allies) Casting a spell takes a lot of
    Fatigue, and the more powerful a spell is, the more fatigue it takes. As armor
    weight increases Fatigue loss, the weight of your armor will also affect the
    amount of Fatigue you lose when casting a spell.
    Spells can affect any of a character's primary attributes, (except size) their
    Body Points, their Fatigue, and their Offensive or Defensive weapon skills.
    However, you can only buy spells that affect Body Points and Fatigue; if you
    want a spell to affect anything else, you will have to join a magical order and
    create a custom spell to do so. (More on that below) Spells can be either long
    range or short range. Long-range spells take more Fatigue to cast than Short-
    range spells with the same effect. Spells that affect Strength, Quickness, or
    Offensive/Defensive skills also require durations to be specified. Spells with
    longer durations also take more fatigue.
    Spells that affect Body Points work differently than other kinds of spells.
    First, when casting short-range spells that affect Body Points, you also get to
    choose what part of the body you want the spell to work on. So, you can target
    vulnerable body parts on an enemy, or specifically heal areas of the body on a
    party member that needs it. One thing you should keep in mind is that healing
    Body Points is a temporary fix, and not as good as "true" healing. First off,
    healing Body Points will not stop "blood loss" fatigue accumulation that you
    get whenever you're wounded. Second, healing Body Points will not negate combat
    penalties you get for fighting while wounded. Lastly, once combat ends, all
    your character's "healed" wounds will open again. The only way you can
    completely heal wounds is by bringing a character to an Abbey. That said,
    combat healing isn't totally a waste of time; it can prevent your characters
    from getting knocked out, and restore disabled limbs. Even a wounded character
    is better than one taking a dirt nap.
    Store-bought spells in the game are always -nalon-, (Body Points, short range)
    -nalyr-, (Body Points, long range) -twelon-, (Fatigue, short range) and -
    twelyr- (Fatigue, long range) spells. Every one has a power of 1-12. If you
    read the manual you can find out what each spell does by reading the "magic
    language" there, but if you lost your manual, each Order will sell spells for
    the first four sub-races of whatever races they effect. (with the exception of
    White Pearl and Blue Gem, which sell spells for player-character races)
    There are six Magic Orders in the game. Each specializes in spells that affect
    a particular race, or in the case of White Pearl/Blue Gem, two races. For a fee,
    you can join an order. You also have to have a high enough Intellect to get the
    option to join an order. So long as your Intellect is in the 70s, you will be
    able to join any order, except for the Black Onyx order, which requires a
    particularly high Intellect to join. The orders are:
    Name                    Location        Fee  Int  Race(s)
    White Pearl Magicians   Brettle         500   67  Humans, Elves
    Blue Gem Illusionists   Amazon Village  450   60  Dwarves, Kelderheit
    Red Mist Wizards        Thimblewald     550   70  Elementals
    Secret Storm Sorcerers  Poitle Lock     610   67  Giants
    Black Onyx Conjurers    Shellernoon     450   80  Legendary
    Dark Stone Mystics      Olanthen        300   67  Undead
    The advantage to joining an order is that as a member of an order, you can
    customize spells at your order's headquarters. The downside is that once you're
    a member of an order, all other magic orders in the game will refuse you entry,
    and you won't be able to buy any spells from them. If you want to make heavy
    use of magic, it is definitely to your advantage to join an order, as none of
    the spells that you can buy direct from stores pack much of a punch; you will
    need to do heavy customization to be really effective as a mage.
    Once you've joined an Order, you can customize your magic spells at their
    headquarters. You can customize any aspect of a spell, from what attribute it
    affects, to the damage it does. to its duration. The only thing that you are
    limited in changing is the race that the spell affects. While you can change
    the sub-race of a spell no matter what Order you're in, you can only change the
    primary race of a spell to the race(s) that your Order specializes in. In other
    words, if you're a member of the Secret Storm order you could change a spell
    that affected Binderaks (a Legendary creature) and make it affect Sledges
    (another Legendary creature) instead, but you wouldn't be able to change that
    spell to affect Humans, as Secret Storm specializes in Giant spells.
    Customizing spells costs both Gold and Adventure Points. The amount that it
    costs varies depending on the strength of the spell. The type of target also
    affects the cost of the spell; sub-races are "ranked," and spells that affect
    lower-ranked sub-races cost fewer Gold and Adventure Points than higher-ranking
    sub-races. Note that the ranking of sub-races has nothing to do with how tough
    they are; for example, a Salamander is higher ranked than a Sylph, though
    Sylphs are much, much nastier enemies.
    1)Golems   2)Sylphs    3)Djinn   4)Salamanders
    1)Goblins  2)Orcs           3)Hobgoblins    4)Great Orcs
    5)Trolls   6)Cliff Trolls   7)Hill Giants   8)Ettins
    9)Ogres   10)Stone Ogres   11)Cyclopes     12)Mist Giants
    1)Minotaurs   2)Muck Things   3)Lizarions   4)Bloms
    5)Binderaks   6)Sledges       7)Mist Grubs  8)Walbars
    1)Gremlins    2)Ghouls    3)Zombies   4)Skeletons
    Don't join an order until all 16 of your spell slots are full. You should have
    your prospective mages buy spells from multiple Mage Orders before committing
    themselves to one Order, as once you've done so, you can't buy any more spells
    from the competition. Just how many spells you buy from rival orders will
    depend on what kind of mage you want your character to be.
    It's best to divide your mages into "offensive" magic and "defensive" magic.
    Your "defensive" mage will want to specialize in spells that affect player-
    character races. This character should probably join the White Pearl or Blue
    Gem orders after buying spells that affect all races that are in your party.
    They'll primarily focus on healing and buffing your characters, though they can
    double as offensive mages against humans. (Assuming you have some humans in
    your party) If the racial makeup of your party is limited you may want to throw
    a few enemy-race spells in the mix--for example, if you have only Elves and
    Humans in your party, you won't need to buy spells that affect Kelden and
    Dwarves, and can use those slots for something else.
    Before joining an order, offensive Mages should buy spells from all Orders in
    the game except for the Blue Gem. (as you never have to fight Dwarves or
    Kelden) They should probably buy one or two spells at most from the White Pearl
    order (to affect Human enemies) and split the rest amongst the Red Mist, Secret
    Storm, Black Onyx, and Dark Stone orders. You'll probably want the greatest
    chunk of spells to go to Secret Storm order spells and the fewest from the Red
    Mist, as Giants are very common and Elementals are very rare. Once you've got a
    good balance, you should pick any of the orders except the White Pearl or Blue
    Gem and join. Secret Storm is probably the best as there are more Giants than
    any other race and you may want to change a spell later, but any will really do.
    Black Onyx is another idea, as it's located in Shellernoon, which is smack in
    the center of the map and a decent "home base" for your party.
    Your spellcasters should only wear the lightest armor humanly possible. For
    this reason they won't work well as melee characters--or at least, not until
    you get very, very good defensively with a weapon. I usually give my
    spellcasters Cloth Aketons and Cloth Hoods, and nothing else except for a
    buckler. A "pure" mage is of limited use, so you should have your mage
    characters double as archers of some sort.
    Defensive spellcasting is best focused on short-ranged magic, though a few
    long-range spells won't hurt. Offensively, Short-range spellcasting is
    extremely dangerous, but also extremely powerful. If you have a mage with a
    custom spell to do lots of damage, you can pretty much score guaranteed kills
    with a single casting by targeting the head. The downside is that if you do
    this, you're a sitting duck as you can't put up ANY defense. Long-range
    spellcasting is not nearly as effective (as frequently you'll hit the limbs or
    completely undamaged areas) but much safer. Long-range offensive is also more
    versatile as you can hit enemies from afar.
    There is a way to make a deadly but reasonably safe short-range spellcaster,
    and that is to give him/her the Flying Cloak. If you're flying, you can cast
    short-range damage magic and target the body part of your choice, but can't be
    hit with melee attacks. The down side of course is that casting spells while
    flying is VERY fatiguing, and in many quests, you won't have the option of
    flying. Overall, I prefer ranged spellcasting for its safety and versatility,
    but it will depend on your own playing style.
    Though it may be tempting, don't always customize your spells to do really high
    amounts of damage. While the prospect of one-hit-killing a Cliff Troll is a
    tantalizing one, the Fatigue loss for casting a powerful spell can be monstrous.
    It is possible to make a spell that's so powerful it will knock out your mage
    instantly by casting it. There's also the matter of Gold and Adventure Points;
    creating super-powerful spells can be VERY expensive, especially in the
    Adventure Points arena. Unless you want your mage to be perpetually at a low
    level (since Adventure Points spent in spells don't go toward your leveling up)
    don't go overboard in the customizing. Similarly, make sure that the spells
    that you make are going to be useful in the long term. Don't waste your
    Adventure Points creating a spell that affects really rare creatures you'll
    almost never see outside of a quest.
                                    SECTION F: MONSTERS
    The following is a list of the average stats of each monster in the game. I
    ripped these directly from the game code using a hex editor. Monsters don't
    have a Charisma stat (They only have 6 stats, and I had to guess which
    corresponded to which, though based on play experience, I'm pretty sure,
    especially with regards to Size) The Missile column indicates what kind of
    missile weapon, if any, the monster uses. If it uses a Boulder-type weapon I've
    listed the damage as well. (Note that some monsters may "Fire a missile" even
    if they use Boulder-type weapons--the damage is the same though)
                  STR  QUI  FOR  SIZ  END  INT  MISSILE
    BRIGANDS:      80   64   58  6'7"  83   64  Self Bow
    BANDITS:       70   67   60  5'5"  83   62  Lt Crossbow
    THUGS:         86   64   62  7'3"  83   66  Hvy Crossbow
    RUFFIANS:      83   77   70  6'0"  77   86  Self Bow
                  STR  QUI  FOR  SIZ  END  INT  MISSILE
    GOLEMS:       167   50   80 13'0" 153    0  None
    SYLPHS:       153   50   83 16'6"  80    0  None
    DJINNS:       106   80  100 18'6" 143    0  None
    SALAMANDERS:  126   64   90 10'0"  80    0  None
                  STR  QUI  FOR  SIZ  END  INT  MISSILE
    GOBLINS:       64   55   64  4'3"  73  100  Self Bow
    ORCS:          75   64   64  5'1"  75   83  Self Bow
    HOBGOBLINS:    83   75   69  6'0"  90   66  Self Bow
    GREAT ORCS:    91   83   69  7'0"  97   50  Lt Crossbow
    TROLLS:       124   64   51 12'0" 106   72  Boulder (70/1-10)
    CLIFF TROLLS: 146   57   57 17'0" 120   73  Boulder (90/3-30)
    HILL GIANTS:  120   57   34 14'0" 166   58  Boulder (80/2-24)
    ETTINS:       120   71   64 15'0" 147   66  Boulder (80/2-24)
    OGRES:        123   56   44 12'6" 100   50  Boulder (80/2-24)
    STONE OGRES:  126   80   86 14'0" 120   54  Boulder (80/3-24 or 5-26)
    CYCLOPES:     147   63   44 13'0" 100   44  Boulder (80/2-16)
    MIST GIANTS:  120   73   66 17'0" 153   80  Boulder (80/3-36)
                  STR  QUI  FOR  SIZ  END  INT  MISSILE
    MINOTAURS:    140   64   77 11'0" 100   66  Hvy Crossbow
    MUCK THINGS:   80   47  100  7'8"  66    0  None
    LIZARIONS:     93   86   80  5'2"  80   66  Lt Crossbow
    BLOMS:        106   54   30 13'0"  54   40  None
    BINDERAKS:     86   80   47  6'0"  73   40  None
    SLEDGES:      100   66   34 10'0"  66   34  None
    MIST GRUBS:   126  100   93 10'0"  40    0  None
    WALBARS:      113   73   90 10'0"  70   83  None
                  STR  QUI  FOR  SIZ  END  INT  MISSILE
    GREMLINS:      47  100   60  2'8"  50  100  Self Bow
    GHOULS:        84   86   80  6'0"  71   66  Self Bow
    ZOMBIES:       63   64   66  6'2"  64    0  None
    SKELETONS:     73   57   73  6'4"  85    0  Self Bow
    The following is a list of the stats of the various types of "special" armor
    that monsters wear--for example the defense value of a Muck Thing's "Muck" and
    a Golem's "Earth." You can't actually get any of these items (without cheating)
    so I didn't bother to list their encumbrances, though they exist. I got these
    values by direct ripping them from the game code too using a hex editor.
    Name                         Prot: H/T/L
    Hide*                        4-7/4-7/4-7
    Skin                         1-3/***/1-3
    Binderak Hide                1-3/1-3/1-3
    Ettin/Sledge Hide            2-4/2-4/2-4
    Lizarion Hide                1-6/***/1-6
    Walbar Hide                  2-7/2-7/2-7
    Cliff Troll Hide             5-7/5-7/5-7
    Stone Ogre Hide              4-9/***/4-9
    Mist Giant Hide              ***/5-11/***
    Earth                        1-6/2-7/3-8
    Water                        3-8/4-9/5-10
    Air                          1-3/2-4/3-5
    Fire                         5-8/6-9/7-10
    Muck                         2-8/2-8/2-8
    Binderak Spines              3-13/***/***
    Mist Grub Scales             2-8/3-9/4-10
    Sledge Skull                 2-16/***/***
    Platemail                    ***/***/4-14
    Fur Vest                     ***/2-12/***
    Furs                         ***/2-16/***
    Lizarion Breastplate         ***/7-17/***
    *This "Hide" is when "Hide" appears on any creature or body part not listed as
    a special type of hide. For example Mist Giant Hide is tougher on the torso,
    but "standard" hide on the legs and head.
    The following is a list of the messages you'll get on horseback when you run
    into a random encounter. The messages are pre-set, and indicate what you'll be
    encountering if you don't run. I've organized the encounters by race, with a
    separate section for "Other," non-combat encounters. Note that many of the
    messages are phrased only slightly differently, deliberately to trick you. For
    example, the Ghoul and Skeleton encounters sound a lot like the Healer
    Brigands: The trees around you are covered in moss. "Perfect cover!" you say to
    Bandits: A cloaked figure can seen on the far hillock. As you ride up it waves
    a hand in greeting.
    Thugs: A smoldering campfire is an ominous sight in this remote place. You
    approach, cautiously.
    Ruffians: You think you hear a voice so you pull to a stop. Standing in the
    saddle you look around.
    Golems: The earth around you is rough and broken. The grass is torn up as if
    dug by huge hands.
    Sylphs: The water looks so calm as you stare across it. Suddenly, the surface
    begins to boil.
    Djinn: The wind seems to have picked up and you have to squint to make out the
    Salamanders: You come upon a cottage which is engulfed in flames. Yet, the
    trees around it are untouched.
    Goblins: A high-pitched scream echoes through the vale. You hear a rustling in
    the bushes nearby.
    Orcs: The clang of metal echoes over the far ridge. Suddenly, you spy the glint
    of steel.
    Hobgoblins: A peculiar row of poles dances left and right on a hill to the east.
    The poles grow ever taller.
    Great Orcs: A battle cry pierces the air. Stillness follows. You scan the
    horizon but see nothing.
    Trolls: The hairs on your neck stand and you get the feeling you're being
    watched by unseen eyes.
    Cliff Trolls: You halt for a moment and listen carefully. On the breeze you
    hear a faint, deep growl.
    Hill Giant: A large boulder tumbles down the path you're on. It narrowly misses,
    but another soon follows.
    Ettins: Low, grumbling voices can be heard off in the distance. It sounds like
    Walruses arguing.
    Ogres: The snap of splintering wood draws you to a halt. Listening, you hear a
    low mumbling.
    Stone Ogres: The crack of stone on stone is followed by simian laughter. The
    gibbering grows louder.
    Cyclopes: You feel the ground tremble and see dust rising in the distance. A
    hoarse yell is heard.
    Mist Giants: A loud chopping sound is accompanied by a deep voice singing in a
    tongue unknown to you.
    Minotaurs: An extremely pungent smell assaults your nose. Suddenly, you hear a
    strange noise.
    Muck Things: The stench of the bog attacks your senses. The slime around you
    begins to bubble up.
    Lizarions: The thick underbrush makes traveling slow. You see the tall grass
    moving in the distance.
    Bloms: The splintering of wood causes you to pull up. In the distance, a tree
    falls to the ground.
    Binderaks: You notice the spiders are awfully large in this area. Suddenly, a
    form bolts towards you.
    Sledges: A gentle breeze cools your brow, yet in the distance a tree whips
    wildly back and forth.
    Mist Grubs: A terrible cry echoes through the vale. It is soon followed by an
    even more horrifying silence.
    Walbars: Heavy footfalls shake the ground, and the clang of steel against chain
    is heard.
    Gremlin: You ride through the scene of a recent battle. Around you the dead and
    dying moan.
    Ghouls: You ride upon the scene of a great battle. The fallen lie moaning on
    the field around you.
    Zombies: Suddenly, clouds cover the sky and a sick laughter begins. You can't
    tell its origin.
    Skeletons: You approach the scene of an an ancient battle. Bodies of the fallen
    lie rotting in the sun.
    Brettle Regulars: You feel the thunder of hooves and see dust rising in the
    distance. The noise grows louder.
    Monks: Off in the distance you can see smoke twirling in the air. You begin to
    smell incense.
    Healer: You come upon the scene of a tremendous battle. Bodies of the fallen
    lie about the field.
    The following is a list of general descriptions of what to expect when facing
    any particular enemy. They are guidelines and not the be-all-end-all of what
    you'll need to expect. The main variance factor when fighting enemies is their
    level. As your party's level increases, the enemies' level will scale
    accordingly. The enemy's general stats will not raise with level, but their
    weapon skills definitely will. This means that higher-level enemies will avoid
    your attacks with greater frequency, land their own with better accuracy, and
    deal critical hits more often. For this reason, an enemy that might not have
    been a big deal to a low-or-mid level party might become deadly to a high-level
    Brigands are the easiest of the human enemies you'll deal with. Their stats are
    thoroughly average, and their equipment tends to be very sorry indeed. They
    only wear leather armor (though it usually covers their whole body, and they
    often have bucklers as well) and wield the weakest of weapons, like shortswords,
    maces, and the occasional short spear or battle axe. They do like to fire
    missile weapons a lot, so you have to be careful in that respect, but in all
    others, they're very easy opponents. Unless you're facing a full dozen or so
    brigands in a random encounter situation, you should be able to deal with them
    without too much trouble.
    Brigands are easier to kill than Bandits, but not by much. Bandits are very
    similar to Brigands, actually; they also only wear leather armor and frequently
    sport bucklers, plus like to use missile weapons as well. However, in terms of
    staying power they're not as tough; two clean hits with even a relatively weak
    weapon is enough to send them down for the count, and a good hit with a strong
    weapon will kill them outright. However, they're better armed than Brigands,
    and tend to be more skilled at landing and parrying blows, so they're slightly
    more dangerous. Still, these guys are among the weakest enemies in the game,
    and should be easy fodder for even beginning parties.
    Thugs are relatively weak opponents; they're only slightly tougher than
    Brigands in their equipment and stats. They generally only wield maces,
    longswords, or broadaxes, and only wear leather, though frequently this is
    mixed with cuirbolli armor as well. Like Brigands, they like to use missile
    weapons, though slightly less so, which is good, because their missiles pack a
    real punch! Being lightly armored, they don't get fatigued easily, but that's
    about their only advantage. Even low-level characters should have no problems
    dealing with Thugs, unless their levels are really high.
    Ruffians are the toughest of the human opponents you'll come across. They're
    not particularly skilled and nowhere as tough as some of the non-human enemies,
    but they're usually well-armored (usually a mixture of chain and ring) and
    frequently carry powerful weapons like halberds, so they're tougher to take
    down than other humans and hit harder as well. They also like sniping at your
    party and will frequently run out of melee range to do so, which can be
    irritating. Still, even with these advantages, a few well-placed hits will take
    them out with no problem, unless they're really high-level, in which case they
    can potentially be a force to be reckoned with.
    Elementals are the rarest type of enemy you'll encounter in the game; you can
    play the game from start to finish without ever coming across an Elemental in a
    random encounter. There are four types of Elementals, one for each element. One
    thing that's notable about Elementals is that they cannot be killed by running
    out of fatigue; they can lose fatigue and take the combat ability hit that
    comes with it, but even at 0 fatigue they won't die. So the only way to take
    out an Elemental is by reducing its Head or Chest points to 0. Also this makes
    fatigue-damaging spells less useful against them. Elementals are all protected
    by their individual element, but the protection is not uniform across their
    bodies; their heads are less well protected than their torsos, which are in
    turn less well protected than their legs.
    Stat-wise, Golems are the toughest of the Elementals; they've got a higher
    Strength than any other monster in the game, and their Size and Endurance gives
    them hefty Body Points. They wield Stone Clubs, of which there are several
    varieties; the weakest version does the same damage as a War Maul, but the
    strong versions are bruiser weapons that can do ridiculous amounts of damage.
    However, Golems aren't generally all that skilled with their weapons, and
    they're pretty slow; you tend to get glancing blows rather than clean hits when
    a Golem connects. However, if you do get a clean hit, look out; Golems with the
    nastier Stone Clubs can knock out a Kelden in heavy armor in one hit. They
    don't wear any armor but are protected by "Earth," which is pretty poor
    protection. (About leather-armor class) Overall, Golems are pretty dangerous
    enemies, and should be avoided by low-level or poorly armored parties.
    Sylphs are extremely large, powerful, and rare enemies. They're so huge that
    not even a Kelden will be able to take High Shots at them. They always wield
    Sea Hammers, and have no armor, being protected by "water." (which can absorb
    damage from weak and medium attacks pretty well) They take a lot of hits to
    kill and have crazy high Strength, but their Quickness is not particularly good.
    Like all Elementals, Sylphs cannot die from Fatigue loss, though their combat
    effectiveness can be reduced by lack of Fatigue. Sylphs also cannot use missile
    weapons. One thing that's important to note about Sylphs is that like Golems,
    there are actually multiple types of Sea Hammers that they use. Their damage
    values are the same, too. However, Sylphs are generally much more skilled with
    their weapons, so a high-level Sylph can disable any body part protected by
    anything less than Plate in two hits at most. They're the most dangerous of the
    Elementals, and should be approached with caution, even by the strongest
    Djinn are probably the rarest enemy in the game. They're large, have a decent
    amount of hit points, and are relatively powerful, but not uncommonly so.
    They're not quite as tough as Golems, but substantially tougher than
    Salamanders. They wield Wind Maces, (which are reasonably powerful, though not
    exceptionally so) Wind Hammers, (which hit harder than maces) and Wind Swords,
    (which are very nasty weapons) and are protected by "Air," which is paper-thin
    armor. The main thing that makes Djinn unusual is their speed; their Quickness
    is much higher than most creatures of their size. All-in-all, they're at about
    the mid-point in terms of difficulty in the Elemental family; they should not
    be attacked by low-level parties, but mid-to-high level parties should not have
    too much trouble with them.
    Coming across a Salamander is a rarity; they're one of the more uncommon
    creatures in the game. They're also overall the weakest of the Elemental
    monsters. They wield Fire Staffs and are protected not by armor but by "Fire,"
    which is the toughest of the Elemental armors. Fire Staffs are reasonably
    powerful weapons, but not as much as some of the monster clubs that Giants
    equip. Salamanders are also human-sized and not particularly Healthy, so they
    don't have that many Body Points and only take a few well-placed hits to kill,
    and their Fatigue drops faster than other Elementals. (Of course, like other
    Elementals, they can't die from Fatigue loss) There are definitely tougher
    creatures out there than Salamanders, but there are easier creatures as well--
    they're a low-to-mid-range enemy overall.
    The Giants are by far the most common class of enemy you'll come across, mostly
    because there are so many different types of them. There's also a lot of
    variety in the Giant class, running the gambit from the very weak Goblins to
    the incredibly powerful Cliff Trolls. Giants can generally be divided into two
    classes; "small" giants and "large" giants, though there are "hybrids." (like
    Trolls and Great Orcs) "Small" giants are generally human-sized, and balanced
    in their attributes. They also have a great amount of variety in their weaponry
    and armor. "Large" giants tend to be rather slow, stupid, and have poor
    foresight, but incredibly strong and hardy. They are usually lightly armored
    and wield heavy, brutally damaging Giant Clubs, and throwing boulders. Large
    Giants are usually more deadly than small ones, but small ones are usually
    better fighters.
    Goblins are the weakest of the Giant class; they're clad only in cuirbolli or
    leather, wield weak weapons like Scimitars and Broadaxes, and don't have much
    in the way of staying power. They're fairly easy enemies to deal with,
    regardless of your party's level; the only potential threat from Goblins is
    that they like to use missile weapons, so could damage your party before they
    have a chance to get close. All in all though, they're one of the easier
    enemies in the game to kill, and even low-level parties should have little
    trouble with them.
    Orcs are well-balanced enemies. They're often difficult to kill because of
    their skill and equipment. Orcs most often are equipped in ringmail-class armor,
    though sometimes mixed with leather. (most often on the legs) They always use
    mid-to-high-power one-handed weapons like broadswords and battleaxes, and are
    most often equipped with bucklers as well. They're strong enough to equip this
    stuff, so trying to make them fatigued due to armor is not likely. Orcs LOVE
    using missile weapons and frequently run out of range of your close-fighters,
    so are often difficult to close distance for melee. This more than anything
    makes them difficult to fight sometimes. Once you do get them in close quarters,
    their armor allows them to take quite a beating before they die sometimes. For
    a high-level party Orcs are usually not much of a threat, but will give a
    starting-level party a run for its money.
    Hobgoblins are a lot like Orcs in that they are very well-balanced enemies.
    They tend to wear slightly heavier armor than Orcs (mostly a mixture of Ring,
    Scale, and Cuirbolli) and use nastier weapons (mostly Bastard Swords and
    Halberds, though sometimes with only Short Spears) and also frequently sport
    shields. While they can and frequently do use missile weapons, they tend to
    favor melee combat. Hobgoblins tend to be pretty skilled with their weapons, so
    they can be tough to defeat. However, their Body Points are nothing spectacular,
    and they tend to be a little too well-armored for their own good, and can
    suffer Fatigue problems from extended combat. They're not the hardest enemies
    in the game, but not the easiest either.
    Great Orcs:
    Great Orcs are nasty enemies. They're not quite as tough as the real bruisers
    of the Giant class, but they're not to be taken lightly, especially in numbers.
    They're strong and powerful, usually wielding powerful two-handed weapons like
    Great Hammers, Great Axes, Greatswords, or Long Spears. They're also equipped
    with scale mail-class armor, very hardy, and extremely quick, so they're not
    easy to kill either. They can often take quite a few hits before going down.
    Great Orcs rarely use missile weapons, but every once in a while you will find
    an individual Great Orc that insists on using them, and their missiles are
    every bit as deadly as their melee attacks. Gang up on them one at a time or
    you will have a very hard time fighting them. And if you get into a random
    battle and are greatly outnumbered, it may be a better idea just to run.
    Trolls are extremely tough, hardy, and powerful creatures. They don't wear any
    armor, and are protected only by their thick hide, but are very tough customers.
    They have an absolute ton of Body Points, and wield powerful weapons like Mauls
    and Great Axes, so deal really nasty damage--a high-level Troll can take out a
    human, dwarf or elf in one well-placed hit, and even a Kelden with a lucky shot.
    They occasionally use missile weapons that are almost as powerful as their
    melee ones. When fighting Trolls, it's best to do as much damage from a
    distance as possible, and, if you have to close in, gang up on them with
    multiple melee fighters as once. They're not the toughest of the Giant class,
    but are not to be trifled with.
    Cliff Trolls:
    While not the most expensive in terms of spell-brewing, Cliff Trolls are
    probably the toughest enemy of the Giant Class, and perhaps the entire game too.
    They're one of the few enemies that's so big that not even a Kelden can take a
    High Shot at them, and they have a very high Health too, giving them an absurd
    amount of Body Points. It'll take numerous good hits with even the deadliest
    weapons to take down a Cliff Troll, and literally dozens of hits with lighter
    ones. Cliff Trolls are also extremely powerful; they wield Giant Clubs and
    brutal Troll Mauls, and do enough damage that with a good clean hit, they can
    knock out any character in one blow. They're also fear-inducing, so without a
    Courage Coat you're at a severe disadvantage. The only real downside to a Cliff
    Troll is that their speed is only average, and their Foresight is not so great.
    Still, they make tough opponents regardless of the circumstances, and low-level
    parties should steer clear of them at all costs.
    Hill Giants:
    While not the toughest of the Giant bunch, Hill Giants can be pretty fearsome
    enemies. They tend to be much better armored than other Giants, sporting plate
    mail on the legs! (Though it's not as good protection as the plate you can buy
    in shops) Their weapons are nasty too--Hill Giants can be found carrying
    special Wooden Clubs that do more damage than any weapon in the game. This
    means which means that you can't take many (if any) hits from a Hill Giant
    without getting knocked out. However, they're slow, and their Foresight is
    horrible, so they're not too tough in that respects. Like other Giants, they're
    big so have lots of Body Points, and thus take a good number of hits to kill.
    Plus, their boulders do nasty damage. Overall, Hill Giants are at about the
    mid-point of the "bruiser giant" class--they're substantially tougher than
    Ogres, but not as threatening as a Cliff Troll or Mist Giant.
    Ettins are mid-range in the Giant class in terms of difficulty. Like other big
    giants, they wield big Giant Clubs, but they tend to stick to the nastier ones-
    -the more powerful Stone and Iron clubs, so they can be dangerous if they hit
    you; like many other Giants, you can't take too many hits from an Ettin before
    getting knocked out. However, even high-level Ettins aren't terribly skilled
    with their weapons, so they're not as dangerous as many other Giants. They are
    taller than most other Giants (only Kelden can target their heads) but their
    hide is very poor protection so they don't take an excessive number of hits to
    kill. As Giants go, Ettins have better Quickness and Foresight than most.
    Overall, Ettins are about the same level of difficulty as Hill Giants--maybe
    ever so slightly tougher, but not by much.
    Ogres are big, powerful, and stupid. Ogres share a lot of characteristics with
    many of the "big" giants; they are rather slow, and their Foresight is bad.
    However, they have fantastic constitutions (Stamina-killing an Ogre is a rarity
    indeed) and can take a whole lot of hits before going down, though not as much
    as, say, a Stone Troll. Ogres are generally clad only in furs, but those furs
    are deceptively strong armor. In melee, they can be real brutes, wielding
    powerful Wooden and Stone clubs, which can deal really nasty damage; not many
    characters can take more than one or two hits from an Ogre, and they deal
    stunning blows with annoying frequency. Unlike many of the other "big" Giants,
    Ogres just love using missile weapons; they throw boulders all over the place,
    but fortunately they're not as damaging as they could be. Overall, I'd say that
    Ogres rank slightly below Trolls on the difficulty level.
    Stone Ogres:
    Stone Ogres are very similar to "regular" Ogres in their traits, and their
    equipment is almost identical (wearing "super-furs", though Stone Ogres wield
    the more powerful clubs with greater frequency) and they both love to throw
    boulders at your party. The main difference between Ogres and Stone Ogres is
    their skill. Stone Ogres are significantly better than regular Ogres at
    fighting, and deal terrible, grievous, and knockout wounds much more often; not
    even a Kelden can stand for long against a Stone Ogre, and the fact that they
    throw boulders with abandon makes them even more dangerous. Their speed and
    Foresight is also top class. Stone Ogres can take a lot of punishment, but it's
    easier to fatigue them than it is regular Ogres; however, like an Elemental-
    class enemy, you can't fatigue-kill a Stone Ogre. Still, a heavily-fatigued
    Stone Ogre can't hit the broad side of a barn, so once they're fatigued you'll
    have a good advantage. Straight-up, they're tougher than most other giants, and
    one of the more difficult enemies in the game; low-level parties should avoid
    them. High-level parties shouldn't have too much trouble, so long as they're
    careful and not outnumbered.
    The Cyclopes are one of the "terrible" Giant enemies. They can be tough to
    fight without the Courage Coat as your characters may be frozen in fear, but
    they'll be frozen less often than with, say, Cliff Trolls. The only real
    advantage for a Cyclops is its immense strength; it's greater than any of the
    other Giants, and wielding heavy weapons like wooden and bone clubs, they can
    do very nasty damage if they connect. However, they're slow as molasses, their
    Foresight is absolutely pathetic--it's very easy to forecast their moves--and
    their staying power is not so great. Their furs absorb a lot of damage, but
    they can only take slightly more damage than a human-sized enemy, especially so
    if you target their head, which is extremely vulnerable. This is probably
    because they're only slightly bigger than human-sized; only Dwarves and Elves
    will be restricted from targeting their upper body. All in all, the Cyclops can
    be dangerous with their brute strength, but otherwise, are not terribly
    difficult for an experienced party. In numbers, however, you're better off not
    dealing with them.
    Mist Giants:
    Mist Giants are among some of the toughest enemies in the game. They're huge,
    enough so that not even a Kelden can take a High Shot at them, they're hardy,
    and more than anything else, they deal tremendous damage with their blows. They
    wield special Great Axes, which can take just about any light-or-medium armored
    character out with a single hit, and bring a heavily-armored character to
    within an inch of his or her life. Their boulders are even more brutal, and are
    the most damaging enemy missile in the game. The only advantage that you have
    over them is that they're not armored at all, only using their hide as defense.
    (However, their torso hide is actually pretty thick) This fortunately means
    that with a powerful enough weapon, you can kill a Mist Giant with just a few
    well-placed hits. Three formidable melee fighters working in concert can take
    down a Mist Giant in one or two rounds. If you get into a random battle with
    Mist Giants, and there are more than, say, 4 or 5 of them, run. When Mist
    Giants gang up on you, even the toughest parties won't stand much of a chance.
    There's not a whole lot you can say about the Legendary class as a whole, as it
    really is a miscellaneous category of enemies, containing everything that
    doesn't fall into the other classes. There are a lot of different types of
    Legendary creatures, but with the exception of Walbars, they tend to be pretty
    rare. (Though not as much so as the Elementals) Most Legendary creatures are
    human-sized, and wear/wield specialized equipment. Some of them can be pretty
    challenging (Minotaurs and Sledges) but most are only of average difficulty,
    and you rarely encounter large groups of Legendary creatures. Since they're a
    relative rarity, and they can give you some good rewards for defeating them,
    it's usually to your advantage to fight Legendary creatures when you do
    encounter them.
    Minotaurs are the "weakest" of the Legendary class, but they're actually pretty
    tough. They're slow, only have average weapon skill, and don't wear armor at
    all, (instead, they are protected by their thick hide, which doesn't absorb
    much) but they pack one heck of a punch when they do connect! They usually
    wield bruiser weapons like Greatswords and Mauls, and even their missile
    weapons do heavy damage. They can often take out Dwarves, Elves, and weaker
    Humans out in one hit (providing they're not wearing heavy armor) and even
    Kelderheit can't take more than a couple of Minotaur blows without getting
    knocked out. Rule of thumb when fighting Minotaurs--don't get hit. Take them
    out at range whenever possible, or gang up on them with multiple melee guys at
    Muck Things:
    Among the Legendary class, the Muck Things are probably the easiest to deal
    with. They don't have any armor (though their "Muck" can absorb light blows)
    and don't use missile weapons either. They are reasonably skilled at melee
    combat though, and their Muck Branches are pretty nasty weapons, though they
    could be a lot worse. The one thing that's trickiest about fighting Muck Things
    is that their Foresight is ridiculously high, (though they're non-intelligent,
    so they'll never predict your moves) so it's often quite difficult to predict
    their moves. All in all though Muck things are not really worth worrying about,
    unless you're already wounded or weak.
    Lizarions are very well-balanced enemies. They've got good Strength and
    excellent Quickness, and their Foresight is also very high. Their missiles are
    pretty strong and they wield high-end one-handed weapons like Broadswords and
    Short Spears. Their greatest advantage is their high defense though; their
    Breastplates are platemail-class armor, and they often sport shields as well.
    However, Lizarions don't have that much in the way of lasting power. If you aim
    at their head or legs you can disable them very quickly, leaving them impotent
    in battle. Overall they're about on par with Orcs in terms of difficulty.
    Bloms are pretty easy enemies to defeat overall. They rarely travel in large
    groups, and aren't heavily armored. (using only their hide) They wield Blom
    Hammers, which are like Great Hammers, only lighter and doing slightly less
    damage. For this reason, they don't hit particularly hard, (at least compared
    to some of the tougher enemies) and their Foresight is very low, so it's easy
    to predict their moves. They also don't appear to use missile weapons. (at
    least, I've never seen them use missiles) The one thing to the Blom's credit is
    that they can take a lot of punishment before dying, about the same amount as
    some of the mid-level Giant class, like Ogres. Still, they're not terribly
    tough, and even a low-level party might want to take a shot at fighting them,
    so long as there aren't too many.
    Binderaks can be challenging enemies, especially if you're facing a large
    number of them. They're very fast and pack a hefty punch with the nasty Spiny
    Maces that they wield; two or three clean hits from a Binderak is enough to
    knock out most characters. However, they have a couple of weak spots; first,
    they cannot use missile weapons at all, so you can take them out at range
    fairly easily. Second, despite their power, they don't have much in the way of
    lasting power, and they're not well armored (only their head, which is
    protected by their Spines, has anything greater than the most rudimentary
    prodection) so it doesn't usually take too many hits to kill them. Beware high-
    level Binderaks though; their high speed combined with their high weapon skill
    make them very deadly enemies.
    Sledges are kind of an unusual enemy. They're really rare; you'll amost never
    come across them in a random encounter. But what's most odd about Sledges is
    that they're a fear-inducing "terrible" enemy like Cliff Trolls or Cyclopes,
    but they're really not all that tough, despite what the manual and the
    townspeople say. They're only man-sized, (even a Dwarf can target their head)
    they only wield War Hammers that are no better than what you can buy out of a
    store, and they have no body armor whatsoever, being only protected by their
    hide and their thick skulls. (However, their skulls are almost as tough as
    platemail, so it takes a heavy hitter to penetrate) They tend to be decent
    fighters, though, so they can give you a run for your money. If you're a low
    level and don't have the Courage Coat, you're better off not taking them on;
    otherwise they shouldn't give you too much trouble.
    Mist Grubs:
    The Mist Grubs are a lot like Sledges in that they are "terrible" enemies that
    induce fear in your characters, but are man-sized and aren't particularly tough.
    They're protected by their Scales, which can absorb a fair amount of damage
    (more than most other "natural" body armors) but they don't have that many Body
    Points so they don't take that many hits to kill. Mist Grubs wield four types
    of weapons: Grub Maces, Grub Axes, Grub Clubs and Grub Hammers. Grub Hammers
    are very weak, light weapons, on par with Maces. Grub Maces and Axes are
    medium-class weapons on par with Broadswords or Battle Axes. Grub Clubs, on the
    other hand, are pretty damaging. If you have someone with Club Skill, the Grub
    Club makes a fantastic one-handed weapon; it doesn't deal as much damage as
    some Giant Clubs but it also doesn't weigh nearly as much, either. Starting
    characters without the Courage Coat may have some trouble with Mist Grubs, but
    otherwise they're pretty easy to deal with.
    Walbars are the "hardest" of the Legendary class in terms of the amount of
    money it costs to write spells that work against them, but they're actually not
    that tough, overall. They wield very heavy, powerful weapons like Greatswords
    and Great Axes, but they don't have much in the way of Body Points so generally
    take very few hits to kill. They also never wear much in the way of armor--a
    single piece of Cuirbolli-class armor at most, the rest of their body being
    protected by their thick hide. There are only two major advantages that Walbars
    have; one, that they have excellent Foresight, so it's very rare to predict
    their moves, even with a character with high Foresight and Intellect. Second,
    Walbars are often quite skilled with their weapons, especially defensively;
    they will parry blows with great frequency. However, unless you're fighting
    VERY high-level Walbars, this usually isn't much concern. All in all, they're
    not too hard to defeat.
    Next to the Giants, the Undead are probably the most common type of enemy
    you'll come across. Undead are united in the fact that they're generally pretty
    easy to kill. Skeletons and Ghouls can be tough for a beginning party, but with
    a little experience under your belt, even they are little more than speed bumps
    in your journey. Undead tend to use pretty light weapons, and with the
    exception of Skeletons, pretty light armor as well. They don't have much in the
    way of staying power (again, excepting Skeletons) so they are little challenge
    to any party.
    With the exception of Zombies, Gremlins are the easiest of the undead to kill.
    They are small and have fewer Body Points than any enemy in the game, so one
    well-placed hit with a medium weapon will usually kill them. They only wear
    Leather armor, so they don't have much in the way of protection either. Plus,
    they only wield the weakest of weapons like hand axes and clubs. However,
    Gremlins make extensive use of bows--most gremlins will start out the battle
    all firing at you--and their missiles do a substantial amount of damage when
    they connect. Their Foresight is pretty good too, so it's hard to predict their
    moves. Once you get close to them they die fairly easily, but it can be tough
    to get that close without taking a few hits first.
    Forest, Hills
    Ghouls are not terribly difficult enemies, but they're not that easy either.
    They only wield light weapons like Maces, but are extremely strong, so can do
    quite a lot of damage to a lightly-armored character; their arrows in
    particular seem to do heavy damage. They usually are only wearing a Cuirbolli
    chest, but that can be tough to penetrate for a beginning party. However,
    Ghouls don't have much in the way of staying power, so a few good solid hits
    will be enough to take them down. In general, you don't need to worry too much
    about Ghouls once you've got a few levels under your belt, but they can be a
    threat to fresh characters.
    While not "officially" the weakest of the undead (in terms of spell costs and
    the like) Zombies are generally the easiest undead enemies to kill. They are
    fairly weak and use only the lightest weapons like clubs, scimitars, and
    longswords; characters equipped with medium armor will frequently absorb all
    damage from their blows even if they hit. Armor-wise they're not much better
    off; they only wear cloth. Furthermore, Zombies don't use missile attacks. They
    don't take many hits to kill, and rarely can parry attacks, but they are fairly
    good at avoiding blows. Unless you're greatly outnumbered, Zombies are usually
    fairly easy kills.
    Skeletons are the toughest of the undead to fight; they usually equip heavy
    armor, have heavy one-handed weapons, and tend to be quite skilled with the
    weapons they wield, plus can take a fair amount of damage before dying. Even
    experienced fighters can have trouble dealing with a Skeleton. The one
    advantage to fighting a Skeleton is that their Fatigue is terrible, so they
    can't fight for very long at all before their fatigue loss makes them easy
    targets. Skeletons will sometimes kill themselves through Fatigue loss too.
    However, they should not be underestimated, as until they've lost that Fatigue,
    they can be difficult opponents.
                                  SECTION G: QUESTS
    While you can do nothing but run around in the wilderness bashing monsters and
    taking their stuff in Knights of Legend, the real bread and butter of the game
    is undertaking the many quests in the game. Quests are special battles. Rather
    than taking place on a generic wooded field like random battles, quests take
    place in a pre-designed area, which differs from quest to quest. They can take
    place in castles, caverns, islands, and even a giant maze in one case. When you
    fight a quest battle, you'll always be facing a large force (8 at the absolute
    minimum, and more often 12) of enemies, which are placed in pre-set positions.
    (though by the time you get to them, they may be elsewhere as they move around)
    Your party is also placed in a pre-set position, which can be part of the
    challenge; sometimes your party is split up, making strategy more important.
    To get a quest, you need to talk to a quest-giver and ask them about the right
    topic for them to give it to you. You can learn these topics by hearing rumors
    around town, or by completing a quest and getting a hint. When you ask about
    the right topic, the quest-giver will give you a long description of what s/he
    wants you to do, and you will have the option to accept or refuse the quest. If
    you refuse, you can always ask again.
    Once you are on a quest, the "quest entrance" will open up on the main map, and
    when your party is located at the right spot, you will be given a short text
    description and will be asked "Will you Partake?" If you say yes, then the
    quest starts proper. Finding the quest entrance is often part of the challenge;
    sometimes the quest giver won't tell you exactly where you need to go. In this
    case, you'll have to ask around town to find out where you need to be. For
    example, hypothetically you may learn that you need to retrieve a Magic Wand
    from a band of Trolls, but that's it; in this case you might want to ask around
    town about Magic Wands and Trolls to find out where to go. Note that geography
    is VERY important when trying to find the entrance of a quest; you'll
    definitely need that map that came with your game! If you lost your map, search
    Google Images for one; I found a very good, detailed map of Ashtalarea, having
    lost my map myself.
    There are two ways to complete a quest. First, you can kill all the enemies in
    the battle. This is the "standard" (and most profitable) way to complete the
    quest. The other way to complete the quest is to find the quest item, which is
    always hidden away someplace in the level. A character (with empty hands, of
    course) can pick up the item, then run for the exit. When the character with
    the quest item reaches the exit, the game will ask "Do you want to flee?" and
    if you say "Yes," your party will leave with quest item intact. (ie you won't
    drop it like if you used the "flee" option in battle) You don't get any
    experience for this though, and once you leave the quest area like this, you
    can't return.
    Once you've completed the quest, you need to bring the Quest Item (it's also
    available to pick up once you kill all enemies) back to the quest giver. Upon
    returning to the quest giver, the quest will be complete, you'll get your
    reward (either an item or a hint) and your characters will get a medal
    signifying they've completed the quest. Whatever you do, DON'T THROW AWAY OR
    SELL A QUEST ITEM! If you do, you're screwed; you can never complete that quest,
    and by extension, you can never complete the game either. However, if you hack
    your save file (see the "cheating" section) you can fix things. Another option
    is to create a new party, have them re-do the quest, and hand the quest item to
    the first party that dropped it. (Of course then party 2 will never be able to
    complete the quest)
    One thing to note about quests is that unlike random battles, the enemies in
    quests don't scale in difficulty according to your party's level. So, if you're
    having particular trouble with an individual quest, you can try it again after
    training up your weapon skills and it'll be easier.
    The following is a list of all 24 quests in the game. These quests are listed
    in the order in which they appear on the "Medals" chart, and not in
    "chronological" order. In fact, by cheating you can take the quests in any
    order you want just by saying the right keyword to the quest giver. If you want
    to play it legitimately, you'll have to take some quests in a certain order, as
    quest givers will usually give as a reward a hint to take on a new quest. The
    item in parentheses is what your quest medal will look like in the DOS version.
    (In the Apple II version, it just looks like a bunch of static, or at least it
    did on my disks)
    If you're playing it legitimately, there are 5 quest "threads" in the game,
    plus two additional stand-alone quests. You can take the "threads" in any order
    that you like.
    ORDER: Quests 1, 2, and 3 (in any order) followed by 4.
    REWARDS: Truth Sword in Quest 4.
    All of the enemies you'll face in this thread are pretty easy, so this is a
    good place for beginning parties to start. Quest 1 should probably be the first
    one you take on; though its enemies are tougher than those in Quests 2 and 3
    respectively, there are fewer and the setup is more conducive to a beginner
    ORDER: Quests 17, 7, 15, and 19.
    REWARDS: Treasure Map in Quest 7, Red Ring in Quest 19
    NOTES: The final quest in this thread is very tough, and the second-to-last can
    be tough too. (Though it can be easily won with extensive cheap-shotting) The
    items you win are pretty useless so this can be saved for an intermediate- to
    high-level party.
    ORDER: Quests 13, and then 8.
    REWARDS: Courage Coat in Quest 8.
    NOTES: This is shortest of the 5 quest threads, and also one of the easiest, as
    the enemies you face are either not tough (Thugs in Quest 8) or can be killed
    by doing nothing. (Skeletons in quest 13) The Courage Coat is an extremely
    valuable item, so this is one of the first quest threads a new party should
    ORDER: Quests 9, 10, 12, 11, 14, and 16.
    REWARDS: Death Blade in Quest 11, Speed Boots in Quest 16.
    NOTES: Of all the "threads" this will net you the most valuable loot (the Speed
    Boots are especially great) but you also have to go up against some extremely
    tough enemies--Great Orcs, Ogres, Stone Ogres, and even Mist Giants. For this
    reason, it's probably not the first thread a beginning party should tackle.
    ORDER: Quests 21, 22, 23, 24, and 20
    REWARDS: Ring of Shades in Quest 24, Great Shield in Quest 20
    NOTES: This is the toughest quest thread, as most of the missions have you
    going up against "Terrible" monsters. Quests in particular 23 and 24 are both
    VERY hard, and pretty much require a buff party wielding the magic artifacts
    given in other quests. This is probably the last thread a party should tackle
    before attempting the final quest.
    QUEST: Quest 6
    REWARD: Flying Cloak
    NOTES: The reward you get for this quest is an invaluable item, and the setup
    isn't too hard (none of your enemies use missile weapons) so this is an
    excellent quest for a starting party. Do this quest as soon as you can--in fact,
    if you're confident, you may want to give it a shot as your very first.
    QUEST: Quest 18
    REWARD: Magic Ingot (becomes the Custom Halberd)
    NOTES: The setup for this quest is pretty tough, but the reward is very good
    for a beginning party. I'd suggest tackling it after doing the stand-alone
    Htron quest, the Brettle quests, and/or the Poitle Lock quests.
    QUEST: Quest 5
    NOTES: As you can't do this quest until all of the other 23 are done, you have
    to do this one last.
    If you still can't decide for yourself the order you want to take the quests in,
    I suggest the following:
    1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 13, 8, 18, 17, 7, 15, 19, 9, 10, 12, 11, 14, 16, 21, 22, 23, 24,
    20, and finally, 5.
    G.03a QUEST 1 (Medallion): BURGLARY AT STEPHANIE'S
    Talk to Stephanie of Brettle, and she'll tell you that some Ruffians broke into
    her house and stole her Gavel and fled into the Tantowyn. Ask her about the
    Gavel and she'll give you the quest to track down the ruffians and get it back.
    Ask about Ruffians around town and you'll learn that Jonathan knows more about
    them; inquire at his forge, and he'll tell you that the Ruffians fled along the
    River Passing. Follow the river and you'll find the quest entrance; it's right
    where the river flows into the Great Wood.
    This is a good quest for beginning parties as it's pretty easy. Ruffians are
    the toughest of the human-type enemies, but you only have to face eight of them,
    and the mission setup is such that if you position your party right, you'll
    have an overwhelming advantage. Your party will start on a road going north
    over a river and into the Ruffian hamlet. The south side of bridge is an ideal
    spot to position an ambush; have your scout lead each of the Ruffians
    individually to your waiting melee fighters and you'll crush them; the Ruffians
    are heavily armored enough so that by the time they reach your ambush, they'll
    be so fatigued from chasing your Scout that they probably won't be able to hit
    you at all. The only thing you need to be careful of is that the Ruffians don't
    ambush you; some aren't right along the road, so if you continue primarily
    along the road and don't explore the surrounding areas, your scout might get
    ambushed. Still, you should be able to evade the Ruffians with your scout
    fairly easily, as they're well-spread out throughout the level. If you want to
    go for the Oak Gavel, the quest item, it's located in the last building at the
    end of the road. You should be able to kill all of the Ruffians without too
    much trouble though.
    When you complete the quest, bring the Gavel back to Stephanie; she will give
    you the word of the Alderman's Guild, "Kydar," and its letter, "K."
    You'll hear from Ryan Ashley, the Bowyer of Brettle, that the Guild of Knights
    had their Standard stolen. Go talk to Stephen and ask him about the Standard,
    and he'll give you the quest to get it back, telling you that the Bandits that
    stole it have their fortress along the road. Go north out of Brettle and turn
    west on the Krell Way; keep proceeding until you find the bandit fortress.
    The bandit fortress is not terribly hard overall, if you attack it
    strategically. You'll enter from the east side, and to get to the keep proper,
    you'll have to cross a gatehouse bridge, then proceed up a path to the
    northwest so you can enter the fortress from its north entrance. The gatehouse
    bridge, being one tile wide, makes an ideal spot for an ambush, and you should
    indeed use it as such to take out the 2-3 bandits that are guarding the area.
    (Whatever you do, don't send your party single-file through the bridge without
    taking care of these bandits, as they'll be able to deal a good chunk of damage,
    and the real fight isn't until much later) However, the gatehouse isn't an
    ideal spot for a mission-long ambush strategy, as all the other bandits are a
    LONG way from it; you could, in theory, keep your party in that area for the
    whole mission, but it will take forever to finish that way. Once the bandits
    guarding the gatehouse are dead, move your party to the north entrance of the
    keep. It's not as good an ambush spot as the gatehouse, but will do nonetheless.
    Using your scout, lure the enemies in the courtyard area (there are roughly a
    half dozen of them) one at a time back to the keep entrance and cut them to
    ribbons with your waiting warriors. After the courtyard is cleared, it becomes
    something of a search-and-destroy mission; the remaining bandits are hanging
    out in the various buildings inside the the fortress walls. The alleyways in
    the southeast quadrant of the keep make a good ambush spot if you want to lure
    the bandits somewhere. As attractive as the houses might seem as spots to lure
    enemies into, don't, as enemies are generally not dumb enough to follow you
    inside. If you want to grab the standard and run, it's in a tiny house in the
    extreme southwest corner of the keep.
    Once you've got the Standard back, bring it to Stephen, who will take it and
    give you the Word of the Guild of Knights, "Aklom," and its letter, "A."
    G.03c QUEST 3 (Goblet): THE WITCH'S QUILL
    The Witch Hegissa in Brettle is peeved that the Knights let a bunch of Ghouls
    go off with her magic quill. She'll tell you the Ghouls fled to the forest in
    the south, and asks you to go get the quill back from them.
    The ghoul city is located in the Klvar woods on the west side of the big tree
    that Tyrolliar the bow trainer lives in. There are 12 or so ghouls, but they
    are very weak and shoddily armored, so this quest is not too hard. Since ghouls
    are not very hardy, you can often kill them outright in ambush formation
    without them ever getting a single attack out. You'll start north of the bridge
    into the city. This bridge is an ideal ambush spot. One ghoul starts on this
    bridge, and three more right on the other side, so don't move your party across
    this bridge until all of them are dead. Once they are all dead, go ahead and
    move your party across and in formation east along the pathway until you get to
    the main gatehouse. There's usually a lone ghoul guarding the gatehouse but it
    should be easy to take care of. Then you can set your party across in ambush
    formation around the end of the gatehouse and send your scout into the city.
    There aren't any other really ideal ambush spots in the rest of the level, so
    you can spend the remainder of your time here, though it'll take a while. At
    the very least, though, you should lure the 3-4 closest ghouls to the gatehouse
    into the jaws of your trap before crossing through. The remaining ghouls in the
    city are very spread out, all the way into the far corners of the map, so
    finding them all can take quite some time. This quest can easily end up one of
    those search-around-till-I-find-the-enemy-I-missed missions. The quest item is
    located in a house toward the south end of the map; there's an area where there
    are two houses right off the road, a one-room one to the north and a two-room
    one to the south. The quill is located in the corner of the house to the south.
    Once you finish this mission, bring the Quill back to Hegissa. She'll give you
    the word of her guild, "Moram," and its letter, "M."
    You can't get this quest until you've finished Stephanie, Stephen, and
    Hegissa's quests, as they give you the passwords you need to get it. (Well, you
    can if you know the password in advance, but that's cheating) If you've ever
    visited the Mayor of Brettle, you'll note he says he won't talk to you unless
    you're known by the Guilds of the city. Now that you've completed the three
    quests, you can tell him the password you got from the three guilds, "KAM," and
    he'll tell you that Brettle's Sword of Truth was stolen by goblins, who headed
    south, and asks you to get it back.
    The goblins are hiding out in the plains along the south coast, just south of
    the Klvar Wood and north of Lastan's Bay. This is actually a pretty tricky
    mission to complete. The mission area consists of a strip of open land to the
    south along the coast, with a big mountain to the north; the mountain contains
    many narrow tunnels, which is where the goblins are all hiding. The bad news
    about this mission is that the tunnels are very poor places to fight, as you
    can only proceed through them single-file and will be sitting ducks for the
    goblins when you come into their rooms. (Not to mention the fact that it takes
    forever to file your entire party in and out of those tunnels)  The good news
    is that the tunnels are ideal for setting up ambushes; have your entire party
    wait at the mouth of the cave and cut the enemy to ribbons when your scout
    draws them out. However, as well-suited the mission is for ambushing in theory,
    in practice, it's not always so easy. The tunnels are winding and twisty, and
    goblins just LOVE to use missile weapons, often making it very difficult to
    coax them out of their hidey-holes and into the waiting arms of your ambush.
    The best strategy overall is to clean out each of the caves from west to east,
    setting up ambushes at the entrance of each tunnel. The cave furthest to the
    east is the biggest, with a lot of branching pathways; make sure to explore
    each before going further north, as you don't want to get trapped. It's also
    the most difficult to draw enemies out of so you'll need patience. At the very
    end of this cave are three rooms with doors; when you get to this point, you'll
    probably want to move your whole party to this area as it's very difficult to
    draw enemies outside of closed rooms. The northernmost room of this area has
    the Truth Sword, but it's not in a position where it's easy to grab and run;
    there are usually three goblins guarding it. For this reason, you're better off
    killing all enemies to win this mission.
    When you've gotten back the Truth Sword, bring it back to Benjamin; as your
    reward, he'll let you keep it. The Truth Sword is a great weapon; it's a very
    light Greatsword that does more damage than your standard Greatsword. It's an
    excellent weapon for a Kelder, as they tend to be strong, but overburdened with
    armor as-is.
    G.03e QUEST 5 (Silver Chalice): THE FINAL BATTLE
    Yes, this is quest #5 of the chart, but the last quest in the game. (Nobody
    said the quests were numbered chronologically) Once you've completed all 23 of
    the other quests, go talk to Dundle in Khazad and ask him of Seggallion. Dundle
    will tell you that you need to rescue Seggallion, but he is not in Pildar's
    tower as rumored, but in the Ghor Hills. The quest entrance proper is in the
    middle of the Hills and tough to put a bead on a real landmark, but if it helps,
    it's directly east of the north edge of the Amazon village.
    For the final quest, you're pitted against some tough enemies--Cyclopes.
    Cyclopes are "terrible" enemies and require the Courage Coat to fight
    effectively. These particular Cyclopes are also very skilled, so you're in for
    a tough fight. In this quest, there is no quest item, so the only way to win is
    to kill all 12 of them. Being the final quest, it's not surprising that this is
    one of the most difficult, though it's not as bad as the Minotaur or Sledge
    quests. You start the mission in the northwest corner of the map. Move your
    party in formation southeast, until you reach a junction in the road which
    leads south and east. The east path leads along the mountains to the north, to
    the entrance of a cave complex. The south leads along the river and across a
    bridge. If you follow the south path to the end, it ends at a river; if you fly
    across this river you can reach a back entrance to the cave complex. The large
    field to the southeast of the junction holds about half of the Cyclopes that
    you'll have to kill. This is where things get tricky. There's nowhere at all
    that will serve as a good ambush spot, so you're going to be forced to do at
    least some straight-up fighting. Fortunately, the Cyclopes are somewhat spread
    apart, so if you use a scout to pull them toward your party one at a time, you
    can fight them one-on-one, though at not the same kind of advantage that a true
    ambush affords. Once all of the Cyclopes in the field and bridge area are dead,
    move your party up to the cave entrance and send a scout in. The cave entrance
    makes a decent ambush spot, but it's a LONG way into the bowels of the cave
    proper, so it's somewhat inconvenient as well. A ways into the tunnel you'll
    find a small 3x3 chamber with a room off to the west. Once you've had your
    scout draw back or kill the Cyclopes before and around this chamber, you may
    want to move your party proper here and use this as a staging point for your
    future ambushes. Be careful beyond here, as there are a lot of side passageways,
    and you could easily get your Scout sandwiched between two Cyclopes if you're
    not careful. Keep drawing individual Cyclopes back to your melee fighters and
    you'll eventually be able to win. If you're having extra trouble with this
    quest, you may want to consider creating an anti-Cyclops spell (beware, it'll
    be expensive) and have the mage with it wear the Shade Ring. It will take a
    very long time, but as the corridors are tight and they won't be able to see
    you, a lone invisible anti-Cyclops mage will eventually be able to kill all the
    enemies in this quest.
    Once all the Cyclopes are dead, you'll see the ending cutscene where you rescue
    Seggallion. (and it becomes painfully obvious there should have been more
    expansions that never came out) You'll get his Shackles. Bring them back to
    Dundle. He'll give you a Black Ingot in return. The Black Ingot can be forged
    into a Great Axe that does more damage than just about anything in the game.
    G.03f QUEST 6 (Silver Ring): THE KELDER'S CROWN
    Talk to Biblik the Sage in Htron and ask him of his Sadness. He'll say that
    he's lost his Crown and wants it back. Tildon knows where it is; he says that
    he thinks it's in a keep on the Tegal River. If you follow the river it's easy
    enough to find, but if you want to know the exact location, it's about right
    below the "a" in "Tegal River" on the map.
    In this quest, you'll be facing Binderaks. Note that there are no stores in the
    game that sell spells to deal with Binderaks, so if you want to use magic in
    this battle against them, you'll need one of your mages to create a spell to
    deal with them, though Binderaks aren't too tough so you probably won't need to.
    You won't get much of a chance to get your party into formation before you're
    thrown straight into the action here, as there are two Binderaks waiting for
    you right nearby. Both Binderaks are on the bridge into the keep though, so you
    can set yourself up for an easy 3-melee-fighters-on-1 setup at the end of the
    bridge if you're quick enough. In fact, it's generally a good idea to spend
    most if not all of the mission at the starting position, waiting at the end of
    the bridge, luring the Binderaks to your fighters one by one. Binderaks
    themselves are fast and powerful fighters, and can do heavy damage with those
    spiny maces; a lucky shot can take out a lightly-armored, weaker character in
    one hit. However, they can't use missile attacks so that gives you a huge
    advantage over them, and they aren't terribly hardy creatures either. All
    except 3 of the Binderaks in this mission are tightly packed into the small
    keep so this is a fast-paced mission; you can lure each Binderak individually
    to your party fairly quickly. Don't try moving your whole party over the bridge
    before the keep is cleared out, or else you'll be swarmed. The remaining three
    Binderaks are far outside the keep proper, hanging out in the wooded fields to
    the south/southwest. The Kelder Crown can be found in the southwest building in
    the keep itself. Note that the loot in this mission sucks, as Binderaks don't
    wear armor and you won't get any gold if you sell their maces.
    Bring the crown back to Biblik and he'll give you the Flying Cloak. The Flying
    Cloak gives non-Kelderheit the ability to fly; it's a great item to equip on
    your scout. It's also a great item to equip on Dwarves as it'll give them the
    ability to Sprint.
    G.03g QUEST 7 (Magic Wand): NOBJOR THE PIRATE
    The Pirates that Sam was talking about in Quest 17 live on the eastern shore of
    Feglar's Bay, to the west of the Amazon village. Pegleg Pereau is the pirate
    who knows about Nobjor. He'll say that he'll give you the map to Nobjor's
    treasure if you find a shipwheel from the Erwenwald for him. The Erwenwald has
    four "squares" of thick forest in an "L" formation, and the entrance to the
    quest location is on the second "square" furthest from the right.
    This quest takes place in a Hobgoblin hamlet, though it's more like a castle
    with an outlying house. Naturally the Hobgoblins don't take kindly to your
    interference and are hostile. The hamlet is not an easy settlement to attack;
    Hobgoblins are wily opponents and the mission layout is not conducive to an
    easy victory. When you start out the mission, you're put straight into the
    action as your party is positioned just north of a house with two Hobgoblins in
    it. It can be tricky to get an advantage against these Hobgoblins as they're
    not easily coaxed out of the house; the door is only two spaces wide, so you
    can at most move two fighters in at once, which rules out the "overwhelming
    force" approach. Plus, the Hobgoblins will shoot at you from the house's window.
    Cleaning out the house isn't terribly difficult, but it may be tough to do so
    without taking a few injuries. Once the Hobgoblins in the house are taken care
    of, move your party over the bridge to the west, where you'll find a large
    castle; the remainder of the Hobgoblins are either in or around this building.
    The problem with this castle is it's difficult to attack; there are no good
    ambush spots and as all of the rooms are closed off by doors, it's tough to
    lure the Hobgoblins off. One good thing to try is to put the Flying Cloak on an
    archer/scout and have them fly over the wall of the ramparts and take potshots
    at the Hobgoblins up there; as you're over a wall you can't be hit by their
    missiles but you can hit them. If you're lucky you can take out a few of them
    to make it easier for the rest of your party. Also, the one-tile-long hallway
    between the gatehouse and the left tower can be used as a makeshift ambush spot.
    Aside from that, this mission is more of a straight-up fight; not easy, as
    Hobgoblins are well-armored and frequently wield powerful weapons. The Ship
    Wheel is located inside a small room on top of the west tower of the castle.
    Take the ship wheel back to Pegleg Pereau and he'll give you a Treasure Map and
    ask you to show it to Scotty and ask him about it.
    You have to finish Quest 13 before you can do this quest. Go and talk to
    Sedfrey in Poitle Lock about his "Gold" and he'll say that his shipment of gold
    from Brettle was ambushed. Ask him about Brettle and he'll say that he's not
    worried about the gold, and more his family's coat of arms. He'll ask you to
    get the coat of arms back from the thugs that stole the gold and promises to
    reward you with a Coat of your own. Ask around about the Coat and you'll learn
    that the Deacon knows about it. If you ask the Deacon about the Coat he'll say
    that he's heard it was taken in the Tegal forest. The Tegal forest is pretty
    big, and far away, but head there nonetheless. The entrance is extremely
    difficult to find, as it's smack in the middle of the woods with no clear
    landmarks. The best way to find it is to go to the Amazon village in the Tegal
    and move to its very left-most edge; the entrance to the quest is directly
    south of this edge. If you're still having trouble finding it, it's located in
    the dead-center of the forest about halfway between the Amazon village and the
    Tegal River.
    You'll be up against Thugs this time around. You couldn't ask for a more
    perfect layout of the village in this mission; the area is filled with great
    ambush spots, and heavily wooded for great cover against enemy arrows. You
    start halfway through the western gates; it's best to move your party entirely
    to the west side of the gate, while using a scout to run through the village
    and lure Thugs back to the entrance, where you can kill them at your leisure.
    Most of the quest enemies are either in the main village plaza beyond the gate,
    or in the various huts therein. They're actually fairly spread out, so this
    mission could be fairly easily completed even without resorting to ambush
    tactics. The remaining handful of Thugs that aren't in the main plaza are in
    two large halls that are located at the north/northeast and southeast corners
    of the map. The north/northwest hall is slightly larger; its entrance at the
    north end of the map, roughly dead-center. (Proceed between the two north-south
    ponds to get there) It's divided into two sections, each containing a building.
    The entrances to both sections are ideal for ambushes, so you'll be at an
    advantage against the Thugs therein. The southeast hall is much smaller, and
    only contains a lone two-room building, usually guarded by only a single Thug.
    The Coat of Arms is also located in this building if you want to grab it and
    run. The Thugs themselves are not too terribly difficult; they mostly use one-
    handed weapons and Cuirbolli armor. Their armor is slightly too heavy for them
    causing them to get fatigued easily, but not enough so that you can count on
    them dying from blood loss. Overall they're not too terribly difficult,
    especially if you use the terrain to your advantage.
    Once the quest is finished, return to Sedfrey, who will reward you with a
    "Courage Coat." This Courage Coat is actually one of the most valuable items in
    the game, as it negates the need for Balance checks when facing "terrible"
    enemies. (In other words, characters wearing the Courage Coat will never be
    frozen in terror when fighting) This item you should probably cheat and use the
    dupe trick (or if you're really a stickler against that sort of thing, create
    multiple parties and do this quest over and over again) and give to most if not
    all of your party members, as some of the later Giant-class enemies you face
    are next to impossible to get a successful Balance check off, no matter what
    your class is. If you're playing the PC version, you'll want to give the
    Courage Coat to all your party, except maybe if you want to use the Flying
    Cloak on your scout(s). If you're playing the Apple II version, you only need
    to have the Coat on your melee fighters, as that version doesn't require
    Balance checks for missile weapons.
    G.03i QUEST 9 (Gold Pin): OUTING THE SPY
    Lieutenant Trimrose at the Thimbelwald Keep is upset because he thinks there's
    a spy amongst his army that has been feeding information to the Barbarians
    Thimblewald is fighting. Ask around town about the spy and you'll learn that
    Milinya knows who it is. Go to Milinya and ask her about the "Spy." She'll say
    she knows who the spy is, but won't tell you unless you get her some Changeling
    Oil first. Trabbik knows about Changelings. Ask him about them and you'll learn
    they're in Downing Swamp. The quest location is smack in the middle of the
    swamp, directly southwest of where the River Downing opens into the swamp.
    You'll be facing Muck Things in this quest. Overall, this is one of the easier
    missions, as Muck things aren't too terribly hard. They've got powerful Muck
    Branches as their weapons (which fetch no price, IE this is a quest with no
    loot) and they pack quite a punch if they connect, but they're also relatively
    slow, and use no missile weapons. In terms of strategy, you can use an ambush,
    but this is one quest where your archers and spellcasters can really shine.
    You'll start out on an east-west path, with the main Muck Thing fort across a
    wide bridge to the west. Note that from your starting position, there's a lone
    Muck Thing in the wilderness to the south; if you're going to kill all enemies
    in this quest be sure to take it out before you do anything, otherwise you'll
    have to come back and hunt it down later. Once it's dead, cross over the bridge.
    There should be only one or two Muck Things on the other side waiting for you,
    so dispatch them and move on. The bulk of the Muck Things are located in the
    main Muck Thing fort, which is across a narrow bridge over the "moat" to the
    north. The bridge entrance is a good place to spring an ambush, but if you use
    your archers effectively, you may not need to. The main Muck Thing fort has one
    central hallway with windowed rooms along the side. Almost all of the Muck
    Things are in these rooms. And, since Muck Things don't fire missiles, you can
    just bring your archers in and shoot at them through the windows, without them
    being able to do anything back. Even better, if you have a mage that has an
    anti-Muck Thing spell, you can do this and not have to worry about ammo. There
    are a couple of Muck Things in closed-off side rooms that you may either have
    to lure out or deal with using melee characters, however. (And if a Muck Thing
    comes out into the hall, which they often do, lure them back to your melee
    characters rather than risk your archers. Once the fort is cleared out, there's
    a small exit out of the fort heading north; there are usually one or two Muck
    Things wandering about out here, but they're easily dealt with. The Flask of
    Oil is located in a room in the southwest corner of the main fort. To get there,
    you'll have to go through the room to its north.
    Bring the flask back to Milinya and she'll tell you that Delmor is the spy.
    G.03j QUEST 10 (Flag): CHASING RUMORS
    You have to complete Quest 9 before you can do this one (unless you cheat).
    Tell Lieutenant Primrose in Thimblewald that Delmor is the spy, and he will ask
    your help in retrieving an Heirloom stolen by Barbarians. Trebbik will tell you
    that the Heirloom was stolen by Pirates. Zebin the Mage knows about Pirates,
    and he'll tell you about the Cloak, which Julian knows about. Julian tells you
    that the Cloak was actually stolen by Brigands, who fled with it up to the Krag
    Mountains. So, now you know where to go. Or actually, you may not, as the
    Brigands aren't actually in the Krag Mountains; they're in the Northwald Hills,
    which are right next to the Krag Hills. The entrance to the Brigands hideout
    proper is located at the northeastern tip of the Northwald Hill range.
    Oops! Looks like the information they fed you at Thimblewald is faulty; these
    aren't Barbarians or Pirates or even Brigands, but Great Orcs that you're
    facing! And Great Orcs are a lot tougher than Brigands are. This mission is
    tricky, because not only are the enemies you're facing tough, but your party
    will be split up. You'll start outside the giant Great Orc fortress by its
    north and east entrances. Odd members of your party (1,3,5) will start at the
    north entrance, and even members (2,4,6) will start at the east entrance.
    Getting your party back together is the trick. The best way to start this quest
    depends a whole lot on your party makeup. At least one of the entrances
    (preferably the north, as it's closer to most of the Great Orcs) should be
    stationed with three melee fighters; this will be your ambush point to take
    down the Orcs. (don't try this mission head-on; unless your weapon skills are
    VERY high, the Great Orcs will make mincemeat of you) It's best if you do this
    quest after you've done Quest 6, as the Flying Cloak will prove invaluable here.
    With three of your melee fighters in one position, odds are the other half of
    your party will have your scouts, archers, and mages. That half will not last
    long against the Great Orcs unless you do a lot of fancy footwork and missile
    firing (and those missiles will eventually run out) If you have your Scout
    equipped with the Flying Cloak, they can easily fly around the perimeter of the
    fortress to rejoin your melee fighters and act as your ambush decoy. The only
    other alternative is to sprint through the heavily-guarded fortress to rejoin
    your melee fighters. This is possible to do without getting seriously hurt or
    maimed, but not easy by any stretch of the imagination. It's even better if ALL
    of your lightly-armored characters have Flying Cloaks, as then you can have
    them all fly to rejoin your melee guys. Once your party is reunited, you can
    use a standard ambush strategy at the fortress entrances, as they're ideal.
    Note that even using an ambush, defeating the Great Orcs are not easy, as
    they're quite hardy, well armored, and can take a good number of blows before
    going down. They rarely use missile weapons though, which is to your advantage.
    They're slightly too well armored for their own good, so with some luck and
    skill you may entice them into dying of fatigue, but this is tough to do
    without giving them a few wounds first. You'll find that Great Orcs are smarter
    than a lot of enemies and know when to run, so it can be tricky luring them
    into your trap. I find that magic is very useful in this mission. If you've got
    a mage of the Secret Storm order, you can craft a spell to do extra damage to
    Great Orcs; otherwise you can purchase the Vornalyrmi spell in Poitle Lock,
    though it'll take a bunch of Vornalyrmis to take down a Great Orc. The quest
    item, a Silk Cloak, is located in the building in the southwest corner of the
    fortress. It's usually guarded by a Great Orc.
    Bring back the Silk Cloak, and you'll learn it's apparently not the Heirloom
    that Primrose was looking for; he gives you nothing. Guess that goes to show
    not to always trust rumors. However, he tells you to ask Sergeant Yardley about
    his Folly.
    G.03k QUEST 11 (Emerald ring): GETTING THE DEATH BLADE
    The Warrior-Soul that Keldinarr tells you about in Quest 12 is Ballastar, in
    the Krag Keep. He'll tell you that he wants to get his family's Stone Mallet,
    which was stolen by raiders who fled into the woods to the east. In return,
    he'll give you his powerful Death Blade. The woods he's talking about are the
    Wesswald; the entrance to the quest area is smack in the middle of it.
    What Ballastar neglected to tell you is that the "raiders" are actually Mist
    Giants, some of the toughest hombres you'll come up against in the game.
    Fortunately, however, the layout of the quest is excellent (albeit not perfect)
    for an ambush. You start at the west of an entrance to a series of narrow caves,
    which all the giants are hanging out in. Set up an ambush at the mouth of the
    cave and have your scout lure the giants back there one at a time. With your
    entire party concentrating on each Mist Giant individually, you should have a
    lot less trouble. Having a spellcaster with an anti-Mist Giant spell is a bonus
    too, but it takes an absolutely obscene amount of Adventure Points to make a
    Mist Giant-affecting spell (over 4000, enough to raise a character two full
    levels) so you may not want to. (or cheat to do so) Your attacks should mostly
    be Thrusts to hit the Giants before they can hit you; (and reducing their
    chance to counterattack effectively) it's imperative not to get hit, as a
    single well-placed blow from a Mist Giant can take out even a heavily-armored,
    full-health Kelden. The layout of the cave is relatively simple; there's one,
    really long passage from the entrance to the far east end of the cave, which
    branches to the north and south at the end. The south end has a large room and
    a spiral-shaped corridor; the north end has a whole complex of rooms. Most of
    the Mist Giants that aren't in the main corridor are in the north wing of the
    cave. One thing that's a pain about this mission is that outside of the
    entrance to the cave, there really aren't very many good spots to spring an
    ambush, and the cave entrance is a LONG way from some of the Mist Giants, so
    this quest takes time. If you're feeling lucky, you can set up an ambush in one
    of the rooms deeper in the cave; the one right to the south of the main
    intersection could serve as a makeshift spot for ambushing. The quest item is
    probably not worth going for, as it's really tough to grab and run, and you'll
    need someone with flight capability. To get to it, head into the north section
    of the cave, ignoring the side passage to the west and continuing north around
    the bend. You'll get to a small room with doors to the west and south; (and
    usually about 3 or 4 Mist Giants) to get the mallet go through the west door.
    The corridor winds around until you get to a lake; fly over the lake and the
    mallet is close by on the other side.
    Bring the mallet back to Ballastar, who will give you the Death Blade, a light
    and powerful Halberd. He'll also tell you to say the word "Rhording" at the
    G.03l QUEST 12 (Shield): YARDLEY'S FOLLY
    Unless you cheat, you need to finish quest 10 to get this quest. (Though this
    is one of the easier quests to "stumble upon" as one of the topics you need to
    ask about is one you might think of asking even without knowing of this quest)
    Ask Yardley in Thimblewald of his Folley and tell him "Primrose" when he asks
    who's been spreading such rumors. From there on if you continue the
    conversation you'll learn that he needed a Vial from a Kelden. Go to Keldinarr
    in town and ask him about the Vial, and he'll give you the quest to get it from
    the Walbars. Ask around and you'll learn that Dingbar knows where the Walbars
    are; talk to him and he'll tell you that they hang out at the Windy Run. The
    entrance to the fortification is at the coast north of Thimblewald. There's a
    tiny little "bump" of an inlet on this coast; the fortification is located on
    the eastern shore of this "bump."
    You start this quest right by the entrance to the bridge leading to the
    Walbars' fortification, in the southeast area of the map. The bridge to the
    fortification is long and narrow, and not a place where you want to get caught
    by Walbars, so make sure you lure the one or two Walbars on the bridge out into
    the open before you bring your party across. The fortification itself consists
    of a large courtyard with two big multi-room buildings; one to the east and one
    to the west. There is also a miniature "keep" structure off to the northwest of
    the courtyard. All three of these buildings are filled with Walbars. Compared
    to others, this quest isn't too hard because of the layout and the enemies
    you're facing. The entrances of all three buildings in the fortification (as
    well as the starting bridge) are ideal for springing ambushes, so you've got a
    real leg up on the Walbars. That, and the fact that Walbars don't have that
    much in the way of Body Points, makes it so that this quest isn't too tough.
    The one thing to note, however, is that you probably won't be able to use your
    spellcasters against the Walbars. No shop in the game sells spells that will
    work against Walbars, so unless you custom-make a spell (which I advise against,
    it's not worth the money and Adventure Points since Walbars aren't that tough)
    magic will be out for this fight. Still, with decent tactics and the weapon
    skill that you should have by now, this quest will probably be no problem. The
    quest item, the Blue Vial, is located in the "keep" to the northwest. There's
    one room smack in the middle of this building, and that room contains the Vial.
    Once you've finished the quest, take the Vial back to Keldinarr. He'll tell you
    to seek the warrior-soul and ask him of "Scalfeth."
    In Poitle Lock, talk to Orofin, and he'll mention Poitle and the Serpent that's
    been attacking barges nearby. Ask about the Serpent and he'll say that Poitle
    used a magic wand to control the Serpent, but is now lost in his haunted Caves.
    He wants you to get it back for him. Christopher knows about the location of
    the cave, ask about it from him. He'll tell you it's located just a little
    upriver from the Lock. (The south river) Follow the river and you'll get to the
    In this mission, you'll be facing twelve skeletons. At first glance, this quest
    looks like a nightmare. First, the geographic setup is sadistic; you fight
    almost exclusively in twisty, long, narrow tunnels that make the caves in the
    Truth Sword quest look like a walk in the park. Second, the skeletons are very
    tough customers, being skilled, heavily armored (wearing brigandine at the
    minimum, and more often chain) opponents that can take a major beating in melee
    with even the most powerful weapons and still not die. However, this mission
    has the potential of being the easiest of them all, as the skeletons are far
    too heavily armored for their own good; they don't have the strength or
    endurance to manage the weight of their armor and their fatigue drops with the
    lightest motion. Give them just a grazing wound and run away, and the gradual
    fatigue loss will kill them quickly. In fact, their burdens are so great that
    many of the skeletons are likely to spontaneously die from fatigue loss before
    you ever even meet them. I imagine if you just sat at the entrance and waited
    long enough, you could finish the mission doing nothing as the skeletons would
    all eventually die from fatigue, though that would probably take forever.
    To finish this quest in a "normal" way, the cave entrance is a good place for
    an ambush, but difficult to lure enemies into. The cave itself consists of one
    giant hall in the middle with corridors branching off at the southeast and
    southwest corners (the entrance leads into the northwest) that lead to rooms
    with skeletons in them. Your best bet is to clean out the enemies in the
    entrance corridor (and maybe the hall) using ambushes, then move your whole
    party into the hall and set up an ambush there between some of the pillars
    you'll find.
    The Serpent Wand is located in a house situated on a little island. To get
    there you have to fly, meaning that you either need a Kelden or someone with
    the flying cloak. To get to the island, take the southeast corridor and turn
    north at the opening. Keep going north until you get to a crossroads, then head
    west until you get to water. Fly over the water to get to the island. Needless
    to say, it's easier to finish this quest by killing all the enemies than
    grabbing the wand and running (and the skeletons may all spontaneously die by
    the time you tried)
    Take the wand back to Orofin, who will tell you to ask Sedfrey about his
    G.03n QUEST 14 (Golden Chalice): THE MEANING OF RHORDING
    After finishing Quest 11, head to the Fostering. The Fostering is the child-
    rearing house in the Amazon village, southwest of Htron. Go there and mention
    "Rhording" to Dunnigan there. He tells you that "Rhording" is a word spoken by
    one on a quest, and tells you to go to the Wood of Dreams and bring back proof
    of your victory. The Wood of Dreams is actually the Dark Wood, east of Poitle
    Lock and south of the Krell Swamp. The entrance to the quest area is at the
    north edge of the wood where the forest starts to become thick.
    You're facing Ogres in this quest, and you don't get any time to waste, as
    right at the beginning of the quest you're assaulted by 3-4 that are right near
    your party. It should prove a tough fight, but move your party so that your
    melee fighters are concentrated together and your archers, scouts, and mages
    are out of range of the Ogres; if any Ogre can get a single character alone, it
    works against you. This is the main challenge of the quest, though, as once the
    beginning Ogres are out of the way, cleaning up the rest is relatively easy if
    you play it right. Once the starting skirmish is over, get your party into
    formation and walk west along the path until you get to a bridge--one perfect
    for setting up an ambush at. This is actually a pretty good spot to spend the
    remainder of the mission, as the rest of the Ogres aren't too terribly far from
    the bridge; their village is rather small. Bring your Scout into the village
    and draw the Ogres back to your waiting melee fighters one by one. Ogres that
    like to throw boulders can be dangerous, but there are plenty of doors in the
    village; if you find an Ogre that insists on using ranged attacks, have your
    Scout sit in a doorway (when you're standing in a doorway, no missile weapons
    can hit you) and wait for the Ogre to tire of throwing boulders before leading
    it back to your party. (In addition, you can harass these boulder-happy Ogres
    with arrows or spells too) The quest item, a Gold Chalice, can be found in the
    first building to the west along the road once you pass over the bridge into
    the Ogre village. It's in the far room, and is usually guarded by a single Ogre.
    Go back to the Amazon village and talk to Dunnigan there. He'll tell you to say
    the word "Inthos" at the Hobe.
    G.03o QUEST 15 (Clover charm): DECODING THE MAP
    Bring the map you got in quest 7 to Scotty (located in the Pirate Enclave to
    the west of the Tegal wood) and will tell you that he'll decode it for you--for
    a price. He wants his Pirate Hat back, which is in Prazen Point. The entrance
    to the quest is smack in the middle of the peninsula.
    In this quest, you're facing Sylphs. There are only eight of them, so you don't
    need to make as many kills as in most other quests. This can actually be a
    pretty easy quest if you play it right. The quest area is a series of islands
    separated by lake and stream terrain. Some of the streams are small so can be
    crossed over on foot. There's no good place for setting up an ambush in this
    quest, (and they're too closely packed together for that sort of strategy
    anyway) but you shouldn't have to if you play your cards right. Since Sylphs
    cannot use missile attacks, you can move your characters to islands they can't
    reach and fire arrows at them. However, Sylphs are hardy creatures, so even if
    you use all six of your characters' 20 arrows apiece, you're unlikely to be
    able to kill them all unless you make extremely lucky shots. For this reason,
    you'll want to have someone with the Vonnalyrfe spell. (you can buy this in the
    Red Mist guild in Thimblewald) It will take a LOT of Vonnalyrfe castings to
    kill a Sylph but it can be done, so if you're patient you can kill all the
    sylphs in this quest with a minimal amount of melee contact. In melee the
    Sylphs pack a heavy punch if they connect so take care if you do go that route.
    While you can't ambush them per se, you can try luring them one at a time to
    the island your party is standing on to reduce chances of getting clobbered in
    numbers. If you'd like to go for the quest item, it's on the shore north of the
    island. Getting to it requires running through a gauntlet of all the Sylphs in
    the leve, but if you've got someone that can fly and is lightly armored enough
    to stand high-speed flight without severe fatigue loss, it's easy to grab and
    run, if you'd like to take that path.
    Bring the pirate hat back to Scotty and he'll decode the map for you, telling
    you that it says to seek out someone with the initials T.D. and ask them about
    the map. This is Tullianna Daverland, who lives in Htron.
    G.03p QUEST 16 (Feather): INTHOS THE MAGE
    Once you've completed Quest 14, talk to Lord Stiveson Bonner at the Hobe and
    ask him about Inthos. He'll tell you that Inthos was a friend of Seggallion's
    and wants you to get his magical staff back for him. Talk to Sir Celegorn at
    the front gate about Inthos as well; he'll tell you that he was last seen
    running for the Downing Mountains. The entrance to the quest proper is located
    in the hills right next to the southwest tip of the Downing mountains.
    This time, you'll be up against Stone Ogres. Stone Ogres are pretty tough
    brutes that can take and dish out a lot of punishment, but fortunately the
    terrain can work to your advantage here. You'll be fighting in a large walled
    castle with a wide, sparsely-wooded field to the south and a medium-sized keep
    to the north. You start on the outside, on the east side of the outer walls, a
    little bit north of the door. There are a lot of Stone Ogres waiting for you on
    the other side of the door, but (fortunately in this case) monsters are usually
    reluctant to enter doors so you'll be able to get your party into position
    without too much trouble. While not ideal, it's best to spring an ambush right
    outside of the door with your melee men; this will prevent your archers from
    getting involved, but it's the best you can do in the circumstances, and
    prevents them from firing at you. Lure the Stone Ogres individually if you can,
    and if any of them seem keen to use missile weapons, have your scout/bait wait
    in the doorway until they've exhausted their supply of boulders. Once the Stone
    Ogres at the entrance are taken care of, about half of the remaining Stone
    Ogres will be in the keep, and the remaining half in the southern field. The
    keep entrance couldn't be better as an ambush spot, so you can use that for
    dealing with the Stone Ogres in there, but the Stone Ogres in the field are
    potentially a little more dangerous; it's tough to lure them all the way to the
    entrance, and they are wide open so can throw boulders--which Stone Ogres like
    to do a lot. What I like to do is have one or two archers with Flying Cloaks
    zoom to the southern castle wall and position themselves directly on top of the
    wall. There, all incoming boulders will hit the walls, instead of your
    characters. While floating over the wall, I have my archers shoot back at the
    boulder-throwing Ogres to weaken them a little bit. Once they stop hurling
    missiles at you, I have the archers lure the Ogres back to the melee fighters;
    (who are already inside and walking toward the keep by this point) while not as
    safe as an ambush, they'll be fatigued and wounded, giving you a real edge
    against them. Once the Stone Ogres in the field are taken care of, move your
    party right to the entrance of the Keep and ambush all the enemies in there.
    (If any Stone Ogres in the keep feel like throwing boulders, you can use the
    same "flying-over-walls" tactics to get them to use up their missiles before
    they come at your melee guys) The Hidden Staff is located in the keep; there
    are two rooms in the keep, and the Staff itself is in the north room.
    Bring the Staff back to Lord Stiveson Bonner and in addition to his thanks,
    he'll give you the Speed Boots. Speed Boots are a very unusual item; they
    increase your running speed so that when you Run, you travel two spaces
    (instead of one) and when you Sprint you travel four spaces. (instead of two)
    They're a very useful item to put on a Dwarf, since Dwarves can't go further
    than one space in a round; not only will it give Dwarves the speed boost but
    will also give them the ability to Sprint.
    G.03q QUEST 17 (Cat Figurine): SEARCHING FOR OIL
    If you ask around about Pildar in Htron, you'll learn that Sam knows something
    about him. Ask Sam about Pildar and he'll call him a "Stod." Ask about Stod and
    he'll ask you to look for some Parth Oil for him. Yommel knows where to find
    Parth Oil--he says it's by Berthand's Bay. The entrance to the quest is right
    on the shore, just a little bit east of the peninsula that juts into the bay.
    You're up against Brigands in this mission. When you start, you'll be walking
    north to the entrance of the main Brigand village. The building to your left
    has a few Brigands in it. Be careful when setting up your formation, as the
    Brigands may snipe at you from the windows. Take care of the Brigands in that
    building, before setting up an ambush at the main entrance to the village. Most
    of the Brigands in this quest are in buildings, and they tend to go nuts with
    missile fire, so you can take advantage of this fact with your own archers. By
    positioning them in the doorway (or if they can fly, on top of the village
    walls) they can shoot at the Brigands with abandon and never get hit, as the
    Brigand arrows will always hit the door/wall. Inside the village are a bunch of
    buildings, all with Brigands in them. To the northeast is a medium-sized keep,
    which is well-guarded. Don't bring your whole party close as the Brigands on
    the ramparts will fire down at you; lure them out one by one. There's a final
    building on the other side of the keep, usually with one or two brigands in it.
    If you can lure the Brigands to your party, positioned strategically at either
    the entrance to the village or the entrance of the keep, you should have little
    trouble, as the Brigands are very lightly armed and armored. The Parth Oil
    itself is located in the building beyond the keep. Trying to grab it and run is
    easy if you can fly, but otherwise is probably not worth it as you'll have to
    run through a gauntlet of large numbers of Brigands.
    Bring the Parth oil back to Sam and he'll tell you to ask the Pirates about
    G.03r QUEST 18 (Beads): ALCHEMIST'S TOOLS
    Talk to Belinda in Olanthen. She's interested in Alchemy, and in particular is
    interested in an alchemical instrument, a golden chain. It was stolen by Orcs
    though and she asks you to go get it. Denswurth, at the gate, knows where to
    find Orcs; they hang out in the pass in the mountains of Lorr. They're fairly
    easy to find; they're practically right on top of the Kazhad outpost.
    This is not an easy quest. In terms of mission layout, the Orcs have a huge
    advantage over you as the small keep they control is perfect for defense. There
    are very few spots for effective ambush, and even fewer that are safe to use.
    Since Orcs love using missile weapons, "traditional" ambushes often don't work
    anyway; when your scout lures an Orc toward your waiting fighters, frequently
    when they see you rather than come in range to cross swords, they'll just sit
    there taking potshots at your fighters. The starting bridge seems to be a good
    ambush spot at first, but using a concealed ambush strategy on the north or
    south side of the bridge is better, as it allows you to evade enemy arrows
    better. The first few Orcs start on or about the bridge so this is a good place
    to start clearing them away.
    Once the bridge and surrounding area is clear of Orcs, things start to get
    tricky. The keep itself is very well protected. There's only a one-tile path in,
    and the courtyard is filled with Orcs so you can't file your melee fighters in
    effectively and safely. What's worse, the ramparts have Orcs in them too, who
    will rain arrows down on your party should you get too close. The Orcs in the
    ramparts are the single most annoying feature of this mission, as they're
    completely invulnerable to attack unless you climb up into the ramparts
    yourself to deal with them. Of course, to do this, you'll have to go straight
    into the keep proper, during which time you'll be a sitting duck to their
    arrows, and the one-tile-wide ramparts are a terrible place to fight. For this
    reason, there's no easy way to assault this keep. There are two main strategies
    you can pursue here. The first, though time-consuming, is to keep your main
    forces on the bridge out of the range of the Orcs in the ramparts, and lure
    each individual Orc out with your scout. The downside to this strategy is that
    you can't ambush well from the bridge and will have to fight the Orcs in a more
    straight-up battle. The second strategy is to bring your melee fighters right
    up to the one-tile keep entrance and slaughter the Orcs that come through. The
    downside to this strategy is that you'll have to soak up the arrows from the
    sniper Orcs; you'll want at least one long-range healer to keep your troops
    from dying. However, if you've got your Scout with a Flying Cloak, you can
    solve the arrow problem; have him or her don the cloak and fly right over the
    wall to the rampart before moving your party over the bridge. While you're
    hovering over the wall, arrows can't hit you, but that won't stop the Orcs from
    shooting at you. Once they've exhausted their arrows, you can bring your party
    across and hack them to bits at the keep entrance.
    The quest item, the Ruby Choker (Guess Belinda was wrong about it being a
    golden chain) is located in the small, southernmost building in the Keep
    courtyard. Because of the irritating Orcs in the ramparts, this is one quest
    where it's actually substantially easier to grab the quest item and run than
    kill all the enemies. (Still, I usually try for the latter, for the
    Take the Ruby Choker back to Belinda, and she'll give you a Magic Ingot. You
    can bring the Ingot to a forge to create a very light, but very damaging,
    halberd. You can name the weapon whatever you want.
    G.03s QUEST 19 (Gold Ring): TREASURE HUNT
    After completing Quest 15, go to Tullianna in Htron and ask her about your map.
    She'll ask you to find the Iron Chest that the map indicates (she made it) in
    an area surrounded by water. Kimble Chandler knows where this is; ask him about
    the Iron Chest and he'll say it's in Ebbwater. The quest entrance itself is
    right off of the north shore of the Ebbwater inlet.
    You're up against Minotaurs in this quest, and it couldn't be harder; this is
    one of the toughest missions in the game. This area is a large keep with a
    north-south and east-west road traveling through it, crossing at a center
    courtyard. Your party starts out split up into four groups; characters 1 and 5
    on the west side of the keep, 2 and 6 on the east, 3 on the south, and 4 on the
    north. And every group but the east has two minotaurs waiting for them right at
    the beginning. As minotaurs are very powerful enemies, having your party
    divided is an extreme disadvantage, and if you take them on straight-up, you're
    liable to have your party severely injured at best by the time you can regroup
    them together. Your first order of business here, before you do any fighting at
    all, is to get your party regrouped together. The two safest areas to do this
    are on the east side of the keep or in the central courtyard, as neither has
    any enemies in it. The best way to tackle this is to make extensive use of
    Flying Cloaks; it's to your advantage to set it up so that your entire party
    can fly. Either way, preparation is the key. How you do this will depend on the
    setup of your party, but I suggest to change your starting lineup so that your
    two heaviest melee warriors are at positions 2 and 6. This puts them on the
    east side of the keep, away from any opposition; if you have to have them
    running through a gauntlet of enemies to regroup it's very hard to get them in
    position without being severely injured or fatigued or both. Your two lighest-
    armored characters should be in positions 1 and 5, ideally both with Flying
    Cloaks, as if you have them run past the Minotaurs, they'll just follow you and
    you'll have little if any time to prepare your regrouped party to fight them.
    Players 3 and 4 should head northeast and southeast respectively, outrunning
    the Minotaurs to the east side of the keep, regrouping either there or
    proceeding west from there to the courtyard. (I find it's easiest to lose the
    Minotaurs to the north and south by running in this direction--if you fly
    that's even better) It's ALWAYS best for your characters on the north, south,
    and west end of the keep to fly to regroup at least part of the way, as most of
    the Minotaurs will ignore flying characters--they won't chase you. Once your
    party is regrouped, there are no really good places to set up ambushes, but you
    can lure Minotaurs one at a time to your party at least. I find the courtyard
    to be the best place for this simply because of its centralized location.
    Ideally you can get your party regrouped without anyone getting hurt, so you
    can take on the Minotaurs more on your terms. Even still, this can be a tough
    mission, as Minotaurs are extremely powerful enemies, that can take out even a
    Kelden with a lucky shot. If you want to grab the quest item and run
    (understandable in this particular mission) it's located in the northern room
    of the building to the northeast of the central courtyard.
    Bring the chest back to Tullianna and she'll open it only to find it completely
    plundered except for a ring, which she gives to you. The Red Ring she gives you
    is worth 1000 gold, but does nothing else.
    G.03t QUEST 20 (Red Shield): TROLL HUNTING
    Once you've completed Quest 24, go talk to Denswurth in Olanthen and tell him
    that Norgan sent you. He'll ask you to clean out a nest of Trolls some of his
    subordinates were too weak to handle. Talk around and you'll learn that
    Rhunholland knows where to find Trolls. Ask him about them and he says that
    there were some Trolls in a keep on the Missip. The quest location proper is in
    the middle of nowhere, so it's hard to give good directions, but it's on the
    same east-west level as the northern edge of the eastern Zolod mountains, and
    on the same north-south level as the northeast corner of the East Mytrones.
    The fortress that the Trolls live in is heavily defended and in a tough spot to
    assault, but with good strategy it's not too bad. You'll start this quest in
    something of a tight spot--all six of your characters are jammed onto a narrow
    bridge, with a Troll waiting for you right on the other side. It's good to have
    a melee character in position 1 to deal with it. Once it's dead, be careful, as
    the wall in front of you is a rampart with several Trolls on it; if any of them
    like using missile weapons, you should have a Scout fly up over the walls and
    draw their fire until they're out of arrows. The rampart is in a "U" formation
    with the entrance in the center; an ideal spot to place your melee fighters to
    take care of the Trolls there. There are a few trolls on the bridge to the
    north of here; they may attack your fighters from behind so be prepared. Once
    all the Trolls in the "U" parapet area are dead, you can move your party across
    the bridge to the north. Right on the other side of the bridge is another long
    high wall with three Trolls on it; the only way up here is to fly, so if you
    don't have any flight-capable characters you'll have no choice but to grab the
    quest item and run here. Whether or not you kill the Trolls up there, move
    around the wall (to the east is good, as there's usually a Troll hanging around
    outside in that area you can take care of) and head to the north of it. The
    final Troll should be inside the building guarding the quest item, a Statuette.
    Bring the Statuette back to Denswurth as proof that you killed the Trolls, and
    he'll give you a Great Shield, a very light shield that offers better
    protection than any other in the game. You can also edit the appearance of the
    Great Shield in the Character Options.
    G.03u QUEST 21 (Sapphire Ring): BRYOR
    When you talk to Rodrigard the Tollman at the Sheller Bridge, (he's on the
    parapet to the left) and ask for gossip, he'll mention "Bryor." Ask him more
    about that and he'll tell you to fight some Ettins that are hanging out on
    Sheller Ridge, kill them, and bring back one of their wristbands of Dwarven
    gold as proof. The entrance to the quest is closer to a city than any other in
    the game; it's on the east end of the Ridge, just northeast of the corner of
    The Ettins in this quest are hanging out in a reasonably-sized castle with four
    buildings in it. It's very densely packed with Ettins, so you'll never have to
    go far to find an enemy. You'll start off at the north entrance, usually with
    two Ettins right near you ready to fight. If either of these Ettins feels like
    being a boulder-thrower it could be problematic as you'll have to get near them
    before you can kill them (with no cover) and may take some damage before you
    can start the fight proper. Assuming you kill the two Ettins, the remainder of
    the enemies are either inside the castle or just outside its east or south gate.
    There's no really good place to set up an ambush here, but the north entrance
    will do in a pinch; this is actually a good place for your party to stay for
    the duration of the quest, as going inside the castle will leave them open, and
    the quest area is small enough that it's not a huge pain to lure Ettins from
    the edges of the map to this exit. The one tricky part of this quest is not
    getting your Scout swamped or leading multiple Ettins to your melee fighters at
    once; the Ettins hang out in groups and it's often difficult to just lead one
    to your trap. Also, a lot of the Ettins are inside the four buildings inside
    the castle, and it's always tough to lure enemies outside buildings, though
    these Ettins seem to be more willing to chase you out than in other quests. If
    any of the Ettins seem set on boulder-throwing, have your Scout sit in a
    doorway until it uses up its missiles; Ettin boulders can do a lot of damage.
    One thing I've noticed is that when going out the two-tile north exit, the
    Ettins seem to prefer to hug the left wall, so position your melee fighters so
    that all of them have a good shot at this square. If you want to go for the
    Gold Bracer, it can be tough to get, being heavily guarded by Ettins, but it's
    in the southwest building inside the castle.
    Bring the Bracer back to Rodrigard and he'll congratulate you--turns out he was
    watching the whole battle from the tower. He tells you tell Aurin that the sky
    looks "Grey."
    G.03v QUEST 22 (Round shield): CUDDLY DJINN
    After completing quest 21, talk to Aurin and tell him "Grey" and he'll ask you
    to retrieve an object stolen from him in the woods by Djinn (He doesn't he tell
    you WHAT the object is, though, Hmm....) Nobody on the Bridge knows about
    Djinns, so you'll have to go to Shellernoon to get the information you need.
    There, if you listen to Kelmore's gossip, you'll learn that when he was younger,
    he was on a mission in the Thanakesh to defeat some Djinns. So, that's where
    you're headed. The entrance itself is in the northwestern area of the Thanakesh
    hills, right in the middle of the hills. It's directly south of the "arm" of
    the Zolod mountains that jut out to the west.
    There are only 8 Djinn to face in this quest, but they're pretty tough. They
    hang out on what's basically a "Djinn Bridge." The mission area consists of a
    gigantic north-south bridge, which at the south end, turns west down a row of
    tiny little houses. The Djinn are fairly evenly spaced along this entire
    stretch, though there are two or three at the north end of the bridge, near
    where your party starts out. There's only one really ideal spot in the mission
    for an ambush and that's at the tail end of the mission, though the little
    "alcoves" along the main bridge, along with the north bridge entrance, will do
    in a pinch. As the Djinn are fairly wide-spread out, this is one mission you
    could probably do with just moving your whole party through the area in one big
    sweep, though you'd be restricted to using only two melee fighters. Djinn don't
    use missile attacks, and their melee attacks are not as powerful as their size
    would suggest, (unless they've got Wind Swords) so they're not too hard to deal
    with. If you play this mission out in a careful and normal fashion, you really
    shouldn't have too much trouble, as missions go it's not too terribly hard. If
    for whatever reason you find yourself having trouble here, you could take out
    the Djinn with flying archers and/or spellcasters, and they won't be able to
    retaliate, but even a low-level party should be able to do this mission without
    too much problem. The quest item, a teddy bear (Guess that explains why Aurin
    was so reluctant to tell you what he wanted) is in the northern-most house at
    the very end of the east-west road lined with buildings.
    Return to Aurin with his teddy bear, and he'll tell you to speak to the head
    Guardsman at Shellernoon and give his name.
    G.03w QUEST 23 (Medal): THE RING OF SHADES
    Once you've completed Quest 22, talk to the Sheller Elite Guards in Shellernoon
    and tell them that Aurin sent you. They'll ask you to retrieve the Ring of
    Shades from Trolls that have it. Suzy is the only one in town that knows where
    to find Trolls--Cliff Trolls! So you've got a tough quest ahead of you. She'll
    tell you they can be found on the shores of Lake Sanat. The entrance to the
    quest proper is not directly on the shores of Lake Sanat, but on the Westwash a
    little bit west of the lake proper.
    This is an extremely difficult quest if your party isn't powerful, because
    Cliff Trolls are very tough enemies, and what's worse, your party starts split
    up at the beginning of the mission. There are two bridges into the Cliff Troll
    Village over a river; characters 1, 2, and 3 start at the north bridge and
    characters 4, 5, and 6 start at the south bridge. The only way to reunite your
    party is either to go straight through the village proper, or for one side to
    fly over the center river. The first is basically impossible to do without
    getting killed (the village is swarming with Cliff Trolls, which will get in
    your way) so you're best off starting off the quest by having one half of your
    party fly over the river. The south side of the river is a better place to
    position your party (the bridge makes an excellent ambush spot) so organize
    your party so your flight-capable characters are in the first three spots.
    Because Cliff Trolls can cause characters to freeze in terror, you want as few
    Flying Cloaks as possible (anyone who can should wear a Courage Coat) so if you
    have any Kelden, put them in the first three ranks as they can fly and wear a
    Courage Coat at the same time. You'll want at least one lightly-armored flight-
    capable scout to go fly over the walls of the village and draw fire from
    boulder-throwing Cliff Trolls before you start luring them to your trap; Cliff
    Troll boulders hurt a lot, and you don't want your melee fighters getting
    knocked out as you'll need them. An anti-Cliff Troll spell can work wonders in
    this mission too, if it's powerful enough. The village itself is extremely
    small (basically it's just three small buildings surrounded by a wall) so don't
    move your party inside, whatever you do; enemies in there are very tightly
    packed together, and even the strongest party can't survive getting swarmed by
    Cliff Trolls. The quest item itself is in the central building in the village;
    it's comparatively close to the quest entrance, though getting it and running
    can be a trick, due to the "population density" inside the walls.
    Bring the Ring back to the Shellernoon Guards and they'll take it, and tell you
    to tell Norgan that you're from the Silver Knot.
    G.03x QUEST 24 (Wreath): SHELLERNOON'S WARD
    Once you've finished Quest 23, go talk to Norgan, lord of Shellernoon. Tell him
    you're from the Silver Knot and he'll ask you to get Shellernoon's Ward back
    from Sledges that took it, and he'll reward you with a magical artifact. Asking
    around town about Sledges, you'll learn that Wilbur knows about them; he'll
    tell you he escaped some in the Sodden Hills. The entrance to the quest is in
    the dead center of the Sodden hills, about parallel with the southern edge of
    Pildar's castle to the east.
    There's only one word for this quest: sadistic. It's definitely one of the
    hardest quests in the game. All your characters are separated from each other
    and tossed into the middle of a huge maze, which is filled with Sledges. The
    quest item is at the exit of the maze, so you have to wander around with each
    of your characters to try to find your way out. Flying is right out in this
    mission as it takes place entirely inside. And Sledges are "terrible" enemies
    so you'll need all your characters with a Courage Coat. (If you hate cheating
    that much, make six different parties and have them all complete quest 8 over
    and over again, then trade the Coat you get with each win to each of your
    characters) Missile weapons are not much use here either as there isn't a whole
    lot of space to run from the Sledges. Below I've created an ASCII map of the
    quest, and have a detailed strategy to keep your characters as intact as
    ########### ######################
    #         #      #       #       #
    # ##### # # ############C####### #
    #A#   # # # #        #       #   #
    # # # # # #B#      ### ##### # ###
    # # # # # # #######    #     #   #
    # # #1# # #       ######## ##### #
    # # ### # #######        #   #   #      Q = Sheller Ward, Quest Item
    # #     #       ######## ### # ###
    # ########### ###            #   #    1-6 = Starting locations of
    #      D a    #   #######d#####  #          characters 1-6 respectively
    ##### ### #####E# #              #
    #  2# #       ### # ######## #####    A-K = Approximate location of the
    # ### # ##### #   #  #   #   #   #          Sledges (Sledges not marked
    #     #   #   ######## # # ### # #          with a letter are generally
    ####### # # ###        # #     # #          hanging around outside the
    #       # #   # ######## ####### #          exit to the maze, near the
    # #####F# # # #        #    #    #          quest item. Check the
    #  b    # # # ######## # ## # ####          fields northeast of the
    # # #   # # #          # #  #    #          exit specifically, as one
    # # # ### #G#################### #          usually shows up there)
    # # #   # # #                ### #          Note these positions are not
    # # # ### # # ######c####### ### #          exact, and the Sledges move
    # # ###   # # H    # #     # ### #          around too. The strategy below
    # #   # ### ###### # # # # #     #          assumes that each of the Sledges
    # #I### # # #   #  # # # # #######          are close to these points; if
    # # #3  # #6# # # ## # # #       #          they're not, you may have to ad
    # # ##### ### # # #  # # ####### #          lib it a little.
    # #           # # # ## #       # #
    # ############# # # #  ####### # #    a-d = Waypoint locations
    #           # # #4# #        #5# #
    # ########### # ### ######## ### #
    #    K        #                  #
    Your three best melee characters should probably start out in positions 2, 3,
    and 6, and your archers (assuming you have three) should be in positions 1, 4,
    and 5. Position 1 is best for your scout. Your archer most proficient in melee
    should be in position 4 to deal with Sledge H in case it finds its way to your
    start position. Upon starting the quest, character 6 will immediately be
    attacked by Sledge G, and will have to deal with it one-on-one. While this is
    taking place, character 5 should move toward waypoint c and wait there for a
    while. Characters 2 and 6 should move toward Waypoint and kill Sledge D. Once
    Sledge D is dead, have characters 3 and 1 move toward Waypoint a. Character 1
    should get in Sledge A's field of view then lure it the long way toward point a,
    firing arrows as you go; that'll have it weakened by the time you get it to
    characters 2 and 6. Character 3 will probably also have Sledge F chasing
    him/her by the time s/he makes it to waypoint a, so the three melee characters
    will want to take care of it too. Once 1,2,3, and 6 are reunited and Sledges A,
    D, and F are dead, move the group to Waypoint b. Have Character 1 (assuming
    it's your scout) lure both Sledges I and K to your waiting melee fighters. Make
    sure there's enough space so that your scout can get by. Once they're both dead,
    move your entire party to Waypoint c. By this time you may have had to kill
    Sledge H with 4 and/or 5; if not, your melee fighters should take care of it.
    At this point, your party is reunited and can move together and eliminate each
    remaining Sledge individually. Because of the tightness of the passages, there
    is no good spot for ambushes, and you may have to use one of your melee
    fighters as your scout. Waypoint d is a good central point to deal with Sledges
    B, C, and E. Once they're dead, move your party out of the maze to where the
    Sheller Ward lies; the remaining Sledge should be hanging out nearby. Kill it
    to end the quest.
    Bring the Sheller Ward back to Norgan. He'll give you the Shade Ring and tell
    you to seek the Black Dwarf, Dundle. Actually, though, this is a bug; you're
    not supposed to seek Dundle, but instead Dunsworth, in Olanthen. The Shade Ring
    makes the character wearing it invisible to monsters unless they're right up
    close. It's best used on a mage; it can be problematic on archers as they won't
    be able to predict where to fire as well, and melee characters need to get
    close up to the monsters, which is more difficult when being ignored.
                                  SECTION F: TOWN AMENITIES
    The following section lists all the stores and amenities available to you in
    Knights of Legend, divided by town. Note that this is not a comprehensive list
    of everyone that lives in a town; it only lists places where you can get a
    service of some sort--lodging, shopping, healing, training, etc.
    F.01 BRETTLE
    Trollsbane Inn:
    Lodging (safe) - 60G
    Saint Paul's Abbey
    Wizard's Tower:
    Join White Pearl Order - 500
    Daynalon - 340
    Daytwelon - 330
    Arnalon - 340
    Artwelon - 330
    Daynalyr - 440
    Daytwelyr - 430
    Arnalyr - 440
    Artwelyr - 430
    Hansard Forger: (Dwarves unwelcome)
    Dagger - 80         Halberd - 280      Flail - 240
    Shortsword - 96     Great Axe - 320    Great Hammer - 320
    Scimitar - 120      Short Spear - 85   War Maul - 240
    Longsword - 128     Long Spear - 185   Self Bow - 320
    Broadsword - 160    Club - 40          Lt Crossbow - 240
    Bastard Swrd - 320  Quarterstaff - 80  Hvy Crossbow - 320
    Greatsword - 400    Mace - 120
    Battle Axe - 80     Heavy Maul - 128
    Broadaxe - 120      War Hammer - 160
    Battle Axe - 200    Morningstar - 200
    Weaponer: (Elves unwelcome)
    Dagger - 80           Halberd - 280      Great Hammer - 320
    Shortsword - 96       Great Axe - 320    War Maul - 240
    Scimitar - 120        Short Spear - 85   Self Bow - 320
    Longsword - 128       Long Spear - 185
    Broadsword - 160      War Hammer - 160
    Bastard Swrd - 320    Mace - 120
    Greatsword - 400      Heavy Maul - 128
    Battle Axe - 80       War Hammer - 160
    Broadaxe - 120        Morningstar - 200
    Battle Axe - 200      Flail - 240
    Ludeman Armorers:
    Fur Cap - 32        Cuirbolli T - 560     Brigandine L - 750
    Fur Shirt - 185     Cuirbolli L - 480     Chain Coif - 200
    Fur Pants - 180     Conical Helm - 100    Chain Shirt - 1400
    Cloth Hood - 48     Ring Byrnie - 680     Chain Pants - 1200
    Cloth Aketon - 330  Ring Pants - 560      Barbut Helm - 250
    Cloth Pants - 280   Pot Helm - 150        Platemail T - 1680
    Leather Hood - 45   Scale Amine - 840     Platemail L - 1440
    Jerkin - 440        Scale Pants - 720     Buckler - 100
    Leather Pant - 350  Basinet - 200         Target Shld - 200
    Cuirbolli H - 85    Brigandine T - 890    Kite Shield - 300
    Bowyer and Fletcher:
    Long Bow - 400
    Holcroft Stables (Dwarves unwelcome)
    Draft Horse
    Lgt Warhorse
    Med Warhorse
    Hvy Warhorse
    Fortress of Brettle:
    Training: 240
    Longsword: 0-30
    Broadsword: 0-30
    Short Spear: 0-30
    Battle Axe: 0-30
    The Lonely Page Pub:
    Stale Bread - Poor - 4GP      Orc Nose - Poor - 5GP
    Ham Steak - Fair - 20GP       Frogs Legs - Poor - 3GP
    Breaded Fish - Fair - 18GP    Jerky - Poor - 1GP
    Salt Chicken - Poor - 16GP    Turtle Soup - Poor - 10GP
    Corn Bread - Poor - 6GP       Potato Soup - Fair - 12GP
    Beans - Poor - 10GP
    Steamed Duck - Fair - 40GP
    Minced Beef - Fair - 25GP
    Sausage Roll - Poor - 15GP
    Pigs Feet - Poor - 5GP
    Saint Hibiscus Abbey: (Barbarians unwelcome)
    Stiffnuckles Inn:
    Lodging (safe) - 120G
    Fallerton Stables: (Dwarves unwelcome)
    Draft Horse
    Lgt Warhorse
    Med Warhorse
    Hvy Warhorse
    The Wizard's Tower:
    Join Red Mist Order: 550G
    Vonnalyrmu: 540
    Vontwelyrmu: 530
    Vonnalyrfe: 640
    Vontwelyrfe: 640
    Vonnalyrti: 740
    Vontwelyrti: 730
    Miller and Granery: (Dwarves unwelcome)
    Ground Meal - Fair - 5GP
    Mixed Nuts - Poor - 5GP
    Grumbling Gut Tavern: (Barbarians unwelcome)
    Beans - Poor - 10GP           Meat Pie - Fair - 20GP
    Ham Steak - Fair - 20GP       Pigs Feet - Poor - 5GP
    Salt Chicken - Poor - 16GP    Fresh Bread - Good - 35GP
    Sausage Roll - Poor - 15GP
    Gin - Poor - 10GP
    Rum - Poor - 15GP
    Grog - Poor - 4GP
    Ale - Poor - 20GP
    Potato Soup - Poor - 10GP
    Lentil Soup - Poor - 7GP
    Armorer and Smith:
    Dagger - 80         Great Axe - 320     Basinet - 200
    Shortsword - 96     Short Spear - 85    Brigandine T - 890
    Longsword - 128     Mace - 120          Brigandine L - 750
    Broadsword - 160    Heavy Maul - 128    Chain Coif - 200
    Bastard Swrd - 320  War Hammer - 160    Chain Shirt - 1400
    Greatsword - 400    Morningstar - 200   Chain Pants - 1200
    Battle Axe - 80     Flail - 240         Barbut Helm - 250
    Broadaxe - 120      Great Hammer - 320  Platemail T - 1680
    Battle Axe - 200    War Maul - 240      Platemail L - 1440
    Halberd - 280       Scale Amine - 840   Kite Shield - 300
    The Commhobb Inn (Darkguard unwelcome)
    Lodging (safe) - 65
    Stone Inn
    Lodging (unsafe) - Free
    Free Faith Fellowship
    Livery Stable (Darkguard unwelcome)
    Draft Horse
    Lgt Warhorse
    Med Warhorse
    Hvy Warhorse
    Weapons Trainer (Darkguard unwelcome)
    Training: 204G
    Long Spear
    War Maul
    Heavy Maul
    Wilbur's Mage Things:
    Iron Pot - 52        Linen Sheet - 24
    String - 1           Gold Thread - 2570
    Red Candle - 23      Saltpeter - 48
    Tin Box - 26         Flash Paper - 245
    Salt Cellar - 223    Black Hat - 25
    Metal Mirror - 350   Whoopie Cush - 1
    Plain Soap - 17
    Charcoal - 1
    Pottery Vial - 4
    Large Tongs - 70
    Journeys' End Stores: (Darkguard unwelcome)
    Black Lotus - 780    Rushlight - 2       Jade Frog - 2500
    Musk - 75            Oil Lantern - 65    Red Canary - 450
    Narcissus - 25       Canvas Sack - 28    Pint Wine - 4
    Ash Wood - 45        Tinderbox - 15      Bag of Coins - 1
    Carnelian - 25       Waterskin - 36
    Aquamarine - 42      Iron Chain - 35*
    Raw Jade - 35        Iron Spikes - 25
    Opal Ring - 195      Brass Bowl - 185
    Onyx Clasp - 95      Copper Ingot - 250**
    Pitch Oil - 35       Blue Paint - 23
    *The Iron Chain is a weapon, but is bugged in both the Apple and PC versions.
    It'll freeze your game if you try to equip it.
    **This may be an "Ingot" but you can't use it to forge weapons.
    The Courageous Griffin: (Kelderheit unwelcome)
    Beans - Poor - 10GP
    Pigs Feet - Poor - 5GP
    Minced Beef - Fair - 25GP
    Sausage Roll - Poor - 15GP
    Griffin Duck - Good - 45GP
    Bronk Eggs - Poor - 30GP
    Eyren Clams - Good - 30GP
    Pork Roast - Great - 45GP
    Apples - Poor - 2GP
    Sordsmith Ecstrodinar:*
    Dagger - 60         Great Axe - 260   Lt Crossbow - 180
    Shortsword - 76     Short Spear - 55  Hvy Crossbow - 260
    Longsword - 92      Long Spear - 130
    Broadsword - 120    Mace - 70
    Bastard Swrd - 280  Heavy Maul - 94
    Greatsword - 300    War Hammer - 100
    Hand Axe - 60       Morningstar - 120
    Broadaxe - 80       Flail - 180
    Battle Axe - 140    Great Hammer - 260
    Halberd - 200       War Maul - 160
    *As you'll notice, all the items produced by Sordsmith Ecstrodinar are about
    25% cheaper than the "standard price," but their quality is still as good as
    any other. (despite the game's description of the shop) However if you try to
    resell any items that you bought there, you'll only get the discounted price in
    Armorer Extraordinaire: (Darkguard unwelcome)
    Fur Cap - 32        Leather Pant - 350   Scale Pants - 720    Target Shld - 200
    Fur Shirt - 185     Leather Cape - 200   Basinet - 200        Kite Shield - 300
    Fur Pants - 180     Leather Helm - 85    Brigandine T - 890
    Fur Boots - 33      Cuirbolli T - 560    Brigandine L - 750
    Fur Cape - 150      Cuirbolli L - 480    Chain Coif - 200
    Cloth Hood - 48     Conical Helm - 100   Chain Shirt - 1400
    Cloth Aketon - 330  Ring Byrnie - 680    Chain Pants - 1200
    Cloth Pants - 280   Ring Pants - 560     Barbut Helm - 250
    Leather Hood - 45   Scale Helm - 150     Platemail T - 1680
    Jerkin - 440        Scale Amine - 840    Platemail L - 1440
    A Residence:
    Join Black Onyx Order: 450 Gold
    Varnalyrmu - 540
    Vartwelyrmu - 530
    Varnalyrfe - 640
    Vartwelyrfe - 630
    Varnalyrti- 740
    Vartwelyrti - 730
    Varnalyrmi - 840
    Vartwelyrmi - 830
    F.04 HTRON
    Wailing Peacock Inn: (Rogues unwelcome)
    Lodging (Safe) - 75G
    The Quiet Cove Inn:
    Lodging (Unsafe) - Free
    Saint Vitrius Abbey:
    Training Grounds: (Kelderheit unwelcome)
    Training: 260G
    Scimitar: 0-50
    Lt Crossbow
    War Hammer
    Zachary Bladeshure: (Regulars unwelcome)
    Training: 280
    Bastard Swrd
    Yommel Kilandra: (Dwarves unwelcome)
    Sapphire Pin - 55G   Brass Goblet - 35G
    Oil Lamp - 75G       Copper Box - 200G
    Earring - 135G       Pin - 4G
    Leather Belt - 96G   Woolen Cape - 85G
    Bronze Vial - 50G    Gloves - 30G
    Silver Bowl - 230G   Elf Bow - 750
    Red Woolens - 300G   Long Bow - 400
    Silver Chain - 155G
    Pewter Mug - 50G
    Bracelet - 550G
    The Towne Merchant:
    Comb - 12G           Lamp - 70G             Gold Clasp - 350G
    Headband - 16G       Steel Mirror - 35G     Medallion - 250G
    Earring - 6G         Pin - 68G              Medal - 275G
    Belt - 24G           Cape - 110G            Ruby Earring - 420G
    Orb - 50G            Gold Chain - 2500G     Tin Vial - 11G
    Choker - 10G         Gauntlets - 90G        Ivory Box - 290G
    Silver Fork - 160G   Crown - 4000G          Bronze Idol - 1500G
    Necklace - 85G       Gold Chalice - 3500G   Brass Buckle - 65G
    Hourglass - 50G      Locket - 55G           Pewter Cup - 23G
    Bracelet - 150G      Silver Seal - 350G
    Ship Chandler:
    Briar Pipe - 15G
    Carved Pipe - 65G
    Tobacco - 1G
    Tobacco - 2G
    Tobacco - 5G
    Cigars - 3G
    Bronze Tin - 6G
    Leather Bag - 6G
    Matches - 16G
    Pipe Tamper - 1G
    Pipe Knife - 1G
    Ofter's Alehouse: (Elves unwelcome)
    Stout Ale - Poor - 5G    Turtle Eggs - Poor - 10G
    Roast Hen - Poor - 3G    Squid Soup - Fair - 10G
    Pretzels - Poor - 2G     Serpent Soup - Fair - 45G
    Ham Steak - Fair - 20G   Fresh Crab - Fair - 20G
    Octopus - Poor - 10G     Oyster Stew - Good - 10G
    Shrimp - Poor - 10G      Seaweed Stew - Poor - 10G
    Tuna - Fair - 25G        Kackel Backel - Poor - 15G
    Lobster - Good - 50G
    Eel - Poor - 15G
    Shark Fin - Poor - 25G
    Lonely Cherub Inn:
    Lodging (Safe) - 57G
    Fishouse: (Rogues unwelcome)
    Raw Fish - Poor - 2**
    Dried Fish - Fair - 5
    **The Raw fish is "equippable" and will change you into a "Raw fish" mage.
    You'll be treated as a mage for all intents and purposes by characters in the
    game (ie get booted out of other mage towers) without any of the advantages, so
    don't equip it!
    Ma's Stables
    Draft Horse
    Lgt Warhorse
    Med Warhorse
    Hvy Warhorse
    The Mystic Tower:
    Join Secret Storm Order: 610G
    Kumnalyrmu - 540
    Kumtwelyrmu - 530
    Kumnalyrfe - 640
    Kumtwelyrfe - 630
    Kumnalyrti - 740
    Kumtwelyrti - 730
    Kumnalyrmi - 840
    Kumtwelyrmi - 830
    The Boorish Widow: (Dwarves unwelcome)
    Poitle Beer - Poor - 5
    Poitle Wine - Fair - 25
    Ale - Fair - 15
    Bitter - Poor - 5
    Ham Steak - Poor - 10
    Beefsteak - Fair - 15
    Tree Gum - Poor - 4
    Biscuits - Poor - 5
    Orcs Nose - Poor - 5
    Pork Roast - Great - 45
    Braumeister's Haus:
    Cask of Ale - Poor - 120
    Cognac - Poor - 10
    Klvar Brandy - Good - 200
    Sweetwine - Fair - 10
    Darkbeer - Poor - 5
    Schnapps - Poor - 20
    Brandy - Fair - 15
    Birch Beer - Poor - 5
    Smoking House:
    Smoked Fish - Good - 12
    Smoked Meat - Good - 12
    Beef Jerky - Poor - 4
    Salmon Stew - Fair - 20
    Dagger - 80         Halberd - 280       War Maul - 240
    Shortsword - 96     Great Axe - 320     Lt Crossbow - 240
    Scimitar - 120      Short Spear - 85    Hvy Crossbow - 320
    Longsword - 128     Long Spear - 185
    Broadsword - 160    Mace - 120
    Bastard Swrd - 320  Heavy Maul - 128
    Greatsword - 400    War Hammer - 160
    Battle Axe - 80     Morningstar - 200
    Broadaxe - 120      Flail - 240
    Battle Axe - 200    Great Hammer - 320
    Gold Earring - 550    Silver Knife - 500    Parade Helm - 2400
    Copper Ring - 65      Sapphire - 1500
    Topaz Pin - 250       Diamond - 4090
    Silver Cup - 480      Diamond - 2780
    Emerald - 1000        Opal - 1900
    Ruby Ring - 1000      Broach - 1800
    Pendant - 3400        Brass Medal - 280
    Crystal Cup - 300     Onyx Statue - 2400
    Silver Fork - 480     Inlaid Sword - 2400
    Silver Spoon - 450    Sword Belt - 750
    F.06 OLANTHEN:
    Long Days Inn:
    Lodging (Safe) - 60G
    The Abbey of Olanthen:
    Joolie the Mysticist:
    Join Dark Stone Order: 300G
    Vornalyrmu - 540
    Vortwelyrmu - 530
    Vornalyrfe - 640
    Vortwelyrfe - 630
    Vornalyrmuti - 740
    Vortwelyrti - 730
    Vornalyrmi - 840
    Vortwelyrmi - 830
    Rhun Manor:
    Training: 350G
    Longsword: 45-90
    Broadsword: 40-90
    Bastard Swrd: 65-105
    Greatsword: 40-105
    Bophet's Steeds:
    Draft Horse
    Lgt Warhorse
    Med Warhorse
    Hvy Warhorse
    Handcrafted Leathers:
    Cloth Hood - 48     Conical Helm - 100  Wood Hammer - 25
    Cloth Aketon - 330  Ring Byrnie - 680   Awl - 12
    Cloth Pants - 280   Ring Pants - 560    Leather Seat - 19
    Leather Hood - 45   Scale Amine - 840   Canteen - 24
    Jerkin - 440        Scale Pants - 720   Wine Skin - 20
    Leather Pant - 350  Brigandine T - 890  Paddle - 48
    Leather Cape - 200  Brigandine L - 750  Scale Helm - 150
    Leather Helm - 85   Kite Shield - 300   Fine Boots - 45
    Cuirbolli T - 560   Leather Belt - 45   Shoes - 15
    Cuirbolli L - 480   Leather Bag - 12    Gauntlets - 85
    Wooden Clogs - 3     Broad Axe - 105
    Sandals - 8          Short Spear - 90
    Slippers - 15        Buckler - 91
    Work Boots - 35      Great Hammer - 300
    Dwarf Boots - 55     War Hammer - 156
    Better Boots - 75    Fancy Boots - 850
    Riding Boots - 150
    Dress Boots - 350
    Dagger - 80
    Hand Axe - 80
    Ne'er Dry Pub:
    Ale - Poor - 10G         Haggis - Fair - 4G
    Whiskey - Poor - 7G      Black Puddin - Poor - 12G
    Grog - Poor - 4G         Head Cheese - Poor - 5G
    Mutton - Fair - 25G
    Pheasant - Fair - 50G
    Venison - Great - 76G
    Roast Boar - Good - 46G
    Biscuits - Poor - 5G
    Waybread - Great - 40G
    Kipper - Poor - 10G
    Isobel's Bakery: (Regulars unwelcome)
    Fresh Bread - Poor - 10G    Black Bread - Fair - 15G
    Grain Cakes - Good - 20G    Sausage - Fair - 13G
    Fine Cheese - Poor - 3G     Butter - Poor - 7G
    Apples - Poor - 1G          Gold Yummies - Fair - 5G
    Fresh Veal - Great - 75G    Bran Muffins - Fair - 7G
    Goose - Fair - 25G          Spice Bread - Fair - 25G
    Honey - Poor - 1G           Nut Cake - Fair - 16G
    Wine - Poor - 25G
    Good Beer - Poor - 5G
    Aged Ale - Poor - 9G
    The Portal: (Darkguard unwelcome)
    Training: 300G
    Halberd: 70-105
    Morningstar: 60-95
    Flail: 0-45
    Broadsword: 90-125
    The Hostel:
    Join Blue Gem Order: 450G
    Tynalon: 340
    Tytwelon: 330
    Kelnalon: 340
    Keltwelon: 330
    Tynalyr: 440
    Tytwelyr: 430
    Kelnalyr: 440
    Keltwelyr: 430
    Klvar Tree House:
    Training: 400G
    Self Bow: 0-55
    Elf Bow: 15-75
    Long Bow: 10-35
    Dagger: 0-60
    Frumpin Scalecatcher:
    Scale - 100
    Small Scale - 25
    F.10 KAZHAD:
    Kherrikvaad Smithy:*
    Battle Axe - 200     Ring Byrnie - 680
    Hand Axe - 80
    Great Axe - 320
    Halberd - 280
    Barbut Helm - 250
    Platemail T - 1680
    Platemail L - 1440
    Chain Coif - 200
    Chain Shirt - 1400
    Chain Pants - 1200
    *Note that all armor sold in this store is dwarf-size; as the smithy does not
    offer fitting services, it is too small to be worn by other characters.
    T'a Kalla Tavern:
    Klakkra - Fair - 30
    Troll Filets - Fair - 50
    Mavaldak - Poor - 38
    Leg of Ogre - Good - 60
    Rat Haunch - Poor - 10
    Girak Helbak - Good - 35
    Kackel Backel - Poor - 15
    Halfway House:
    Lodging (Safe): 56G
    Weapons Master:
    Training: 210G
    Club: 0 - 45
    Halberd: 0 - 45
    Great Hammer: 0 - 45
    Quarterstaff: 0 - 45
    Tower at Threeroads:
    Training: 240G
    Broad Axe: 0 - 45
    Hand Axe: 0 - 45
    Hvy Crossbow: 0 - 45
    Great Axe: 0 - 45
                                 SECTION G: EQUIPMENT LIST
    The following section lists all the weapons, armor, and other equipment you can
    get in the game. (at least that I've found) The first list displays "standard"
    equipment that's widely available; the second has unusual equipment you can
    only find in specialized stores, in quests, or from monsters.
    Name         Hands  Belt?  Type              Damage  Enc
    Club         One    Yes    Hack/Slash         1-6    15
    Dagger       One    Yes    Hack/Thrust        2-4    20
    Shortsword   One    Yes    Hack/Thrust        2-6    20
    Hand Axe     One    Yes    Hack/Slash         3-6    25
    Quarterstaff One    Yes    Hack/Slash/Thrust  2-7    25
    Scimitar     One    Yes    Hack/Slash         1-8    25
    Broad Axe    One    Yes    Hack/Slash         3-9    30
    Self Bow     Two    No     Missile            2-13   30
    Longsword    One    Yes    Hack/Slash/Thrust  1-8    35
    Mace         One    Yes    Hack/Slash/Thrust  4-9    40
    Broadsword   One    Yes    Hack/Slash/Thrust  3-10   40
    Short Spear  One    Yes    Hack/Slash/Thrust  2-11   40
    Battle Axe   One    Yes    Hack/Slash/Thrust  1-12   40
    Long Bow     Two    No     Missile            1-20   40
    Elf Bow      Two    No     Missile            3-22   40
    Heavy Maul   One    Yes    Hack/Slash         2-12   45
    War Hammer   One    Yes    Hack/Slash         3-13   50
    Lt Crossbow  Two    No     Missile            6-16   50
    Long Spear   Two    Yes    Hack/Slash/Thrust  4-13   55
    Morningstar  Two    Yes    Hack/Slash         4-14   55
    Halberd      Two    Yes    Hack/Slash/Thrust  4-15   60
    Bastard Swd  Two    Yes    Hack/Slash         3-17   60
    War Maul     Two    Yes    Hack/Slash         3-18   62
    Great Hammer Two    Yes    Hack/Slash         4-19   66
    Flail        Two    Yes    Hack/Slash         5-20   70
    Hvy Crossbow Two    No     Missile            8-23   70
    Great Axe    Two    Yes    Hack/Slash         2-24   70
    Greatsword   Two    Yes    Hack/Slash         3-24   75
    Name                              Prot      Enc: H/T/L*
    Fur                               1-6        6/54/36
    Cloth                             1-6        5/45/30
    Leather (Includes Jerkin)         2-7        8/72/48
    Cuirbolli (Includes Leather Helm) 3-8       10/90/60
    Ring (Includes Conical Helm)      4-9       10/90/60
    Scale (Includes Pot Helm)         5-10      12/108/72
    Brigandine (Includes Basinet)     6-11      15/135/90
    Chain                             7-12      15/135/90
    Plate (Includes Barbut Helm)      7-17      20/180/120
    *The Head/Torso/Legs Encumbrance values here are listed for a character exactly
    6'0" in height, or Size of 66. Fitted armor for characters shorter or taller
    than this will weigh more or less. For each inch above or below 6' a character
    is, their armor weight is raised or lowered by 1%--so armor for a 7'1"
    character would be 113% of the "base" weight, and armor for a 5'0" character
    would be 88% of the "base" weight.
    Name           Prot*     Enc:
    Buckler         20%       20
    Target Shld     30%       50
    Kite Shield     40%       60
    *The Protection value for shields is a direct bonus to your defensive roll;
    rather than reduce or eliminate damage like armor, shields give you a bonus to
    avoid blows altogether.
    The following is a list of "unusual equipment." Unusual equipment is equipment
    that falls outside the scope of the equipment that's covered in the manual. All
    of the armor on this list, and a few of the weapons, can be found in
    "specialty" shops throughout the land--for example, most of the foot armor is
    found in the Cobbler in Olanthen. The remainder of the weapons are found on the
    corpses of the various enemies you'll encounter. All "unique" weapons are
    categorized under one of the "standard" weapons for the purpose of what weapon
    skill is used when wielding them; I've organized them by weapon type here. In
    general, It's pretty easy to tell overall; the graphic of the "unique" weapon
    on your character's paperdoll will usually be the same as the graphic of the
    corresponding "standard" weapon. There are exceptions though--for example some
    two-handed Giant Clubs look like Clubs but don't use Club Skill. (or any other
    skill that you can train in without cheating)
    Rule of thumb--if you're not sure whether or not you're skilled in using an
    unusual weapon, equip it, and then look at the "WEAPON" part of the equipment
    list. There will be two or three numbers on the last line; the one on the far
    left is the damage, and the one on the far right is its weight. If there's a
    number in the middle, then you are trained in the use of that weapon. The
    number there corresponds to which of the character's skills is used for that
    weapon. For example, if "Club" is the second skill on your list of weapon
    skills, and you equip a Club-class weapon, you'll see a "2" in the middle.
    Fancy Boots:  Prt 1-3,  Enc: 10
    Parade Helm:  Prt 5-10, Enc: 10
    Fur Cape:     Prt 1-6, Enc: 18
    Leather Cape: Prt 2-7, Enc: 24
    Gauntlets:    Prt 1-3, Enc: 3
    Sandals:      Prt 1-4, Enc: 4
    Wooden Clogs: Prt 1-3, Enc: 5
    Fine Boots:   Prt 1-3, Enc: 4
    Slippers:     Prt 1-4, Enc: 3
    Fur Boots:    Prt 1-6, Enc: 12
    Work Boots:   Prt 1-6, Enc: 16
    Better Boots: Prt 1-6, Enc: 17
    Dress Boots:  Prt 1-6, Enc: 17
    Dwarf Boots:  Prt 1-6, Enc: 18
    Riding Boots: Prt 1-6, Enc: 18
    Black Choker (Secret Storm/Black Onyx Orders): Prt 1-3, Enc: 1
    Pearl Amulet (White Pearl Order): Prt 1-3, Enc: 1
    Red Necklace (Red Mist Order): Prt 1-3, Enc: 1
    Stone Amulet (Dark Stone Order): Prt 1-3, Enc: 1
    Blue Chain   (Blue Gem Order): Prt 1-3, Enc:1
    Scale: Prt 30%, Enc: 40
    Small Scale: Prt 20%, Enc: 20
    Inlaid Sword: 1H,  Dmg 4-11, Enc: 35
    Muck Branch: Dmg 3-13, Enc: 45   Dropped by Muck Things
    Muck Branch: Dmg 3-13, Enc: 50   Dropped by Muck Things
    Muck Branch: Dmg 3-13, Enc: 55   Dropped by Muck Things
    Club:        Dmg 4-18, Enc: 80   Dropped by Trolls
    Bone Club:   Dmg 2-20, Enc: 70   Dropped by Cyclopes, Hill Giants, Ogres,
    Grub Club:   Dmg 2-21, Enc: 40   Dropped by Mist Grubs
    Wooden Club: Dmg 2-24, Enc: 90   Dropped by Ettins, Ogres, Cyclopes
    Stone Club:  Dmg 3-18, Enc: 90   Dropped by Golems
    Stone Club:  Dmg 4-25, Enc: 90   Dropped by Cyclopes
    Stone Club:  Dmg 4-25, Enc: 100  Dropped by Hill Giants, Ettins, Ogres
    Stone Club:  Dmg 5-26, Enc: 100  Dropped by Minotaurs
    Stone Club:  Dmg 3-24, Enc: 100  Dropped by Golems
    Stone Club:  Dmg 3-30, Enc: 110  Dropped by Golems
    Iron Club:   Dmg 3-30, Enc: 108  Dropped by Hill Giants, Ogres, Ettins
    Wooden Club: Dmg 3-36, Enc: 90   Dropped by Hill Giants
    Grub Axe:    Dmg 2-13, Enc: 40   Dropped by Mist Grubs
    Long Spear:  Dmg 4-22, Enc: 75   Dropped by Trolls
    Long Spear:  Dmg 4-22, Enc: 90   Dropped by Cliff Trolls
    Long Spear:  Dmg 5-23, Enc: 90   Dropped by Minotaurs
    Grub Mace:   Dmg 2-11, Enc: 40   Dropped by Mist Grubs
    Spiney Mace: Dmg 2-12, Enc: 35   Dropped by Binderaks
    Spiney Mace: Dmg 2-16, Enc: 40   Dropped by Binderaks
    Spiney Mace: Dmg 2-20, Enc: 45   Dropped by Binderaks
    Spiney Mace: Dmg 2-20, Enc: 50   Dropped by Binderaks
    Spiney Mace: Dmg 2-24, Enc: 50   Dropped by Binderaks
    War Hammer:  Dmg 6-12, Enc: 50   Dropped by Sledges
    Sea Hammer:  Dmg 3-18, Enc: 80   Dropped by Sylphs
    Wind Hammer: Dmg 3-24, Enc: 90   Dropped by Djinns
    Sea Hammer:  Dmg 3-24, Enc: 90   Dropped by Sylphs
    Sea Hammer:  Dmg 3-30, Enc: 100  Dropped by Sylphs
    Maul:        Dmg 3-30, Enc: 100  Dropped by Minotaurs, Trolls
    Troll Maul:  Dmg 5-32, Enc: 120  Dropped by Cliff Trolls
    Blom Hammer: Dmg 4-14, Enc: 50   Dropped by Bloms
    Blom Hammer: Dmg 4-18, Enc: 55   Dropped by Bloms
    Blom Hammer: Dmg 4-22, Enc: 60   Dropped by Bloms
    Blom Hammer: Dmg 4-26, Enc: 65   Dropped by Bloms
    Grub Hammer: Dmg 2-9,  Enc: 40   Dropped by Mist Grubs
    Heavy Maul:  Dmg 5-32, Enc: 110  Dropped by Cyclopes
    Great Axe:   Dmg 4-26, Enc: 90   Dropped by Trolls
    Great Axe:   Dmg 4-26, Enc: 100  Dropped by Cliff Trolls
    Great Axe:   Dmg 6-28, Enc: 100  Dropped by Mist Giants
    Large Tongs: Dmg 2-7   Enc: 45
    Fire Staff:  Dmg 2-12, Enc: 45   Dropped by Salamanders
    Fire Staff:  Dmg 2-16, Enc: 55   Dropped by Salamanders
    Fire Staff:  Dmg 2-20, Enc: 65   Dropped by Salamanders
    Bone Club    Dmg 2-20, Enc: 70   Dropped by Stone Ogres
    Stone Club:  Dmg 4-25, Enc: 100  Dropped by Stone Ogres
    Wood Club:   Dmg 2-24, Enc: 90   Dropped by Stone Ogres
    Iron Club:   Dmg 3-30, Enc: 108  Dropped by Stone Ogres
    Wind Mace:   Dmg 3-18, Enc: 80   Dropped by Djinns
    Wind Sword:  Dmg 3-30, Enc: 100  Dropped by Djinns
    The following is a list of equipment that you'll get from completing various
    Quest 4 Reward
    Greatsword Skill: Dmg 4-32, Enc: 45
    The Truth Sword is a Greatsword that does more damage and weighs less than an
    "ordinary" Greatsword.
    Quest 5 Reward
    Great Axe Skill: Dmg 6-36, Enc: 40
    The Custom Axe is made from the Black Ingot you receive from Dundle. You will
    have to name it when you first have it forged. It does a lot more damage and
    weighs much less than a standard Great Axe.
    Quest 6 Reward
    Body Armor: Prt 1-3, Enc: 0
    The Flying Cloak will grant flight abilities to any non-Kelden character class.
    (As Kelden already have the ability to fly, this cloak does nothing for them)
    It also grants Dwarves the ability to Sprint. Flying using the Flying Cloak
    takes the same amount of Fatigue as a Kelden using his wings.
    Quest 8 Reward
    Body Armor: Prt 1-3, Enc: 0
    Characters wearing the Courage Coat will automatically pass any Balance checks
    they make. In practical terms, this means they will never be "frozen in terror"
    when facing "terrible" creatures. ("Terrible" creatures being Cliff Trolls,
    Ettins, Stone Ogres,
    Cyclopes, Sledges, and Mist Grubs)
    Quest 11 Reward
    Halberd Skill: Dmg 5-27, Enc: 30
    The Death Blade is a Halberd that does more damage and weighs less than a
    standard Halberd. It's very slightly more effective than the Custom Halberd,
    but is otherwise indistinguishable from it.
    Quest 16 Reward
    Foot Armor: Prt 1-3, Enc: 0
    The Speed Boots will double the paces a character moves when moving on the
    ground at faster than a walking pace; in other words, 2 spaces for Running, and
    4 spaces for Sprinting. Speed Boots will also grant Dwarves the ability to
    Sprint. (at the increased rate, of course) Speed Boots do not affect a
    character's speed in the air, nor do they affect a character's Quickness value
    (ie if they've got low Quickness, they'll act later in a combat round, Speed
    Boots or no.)
    Quest 18 Reward
    Halberd Skill: Dmg 4-27, Enc: 30
    The Custom Halberd is made from the Magic Ingot you receive from a quest at a
    smithy. It has no "pre-set" name and you will have to name it when you first
    have it forged. It does more damage and weighs less than a standard Halberd.
    Quest 19 Reward
    Ring Armor: Prt 1-3, Enc: 0
    I'm almost positive this item does nothing. Looking at it in hex, the "magic
    effects" spot that gives the Shade Ring, Courage Coat, and Flying Cloak their
    special effects is completely blank.
    Quest 20 Reward
    Shield: Prt 50%, Enc: 40
    The Great Shield is a Kite Shield that weighs less than normal but offers
    better protection. You can customize its look in the Character Options when
    starting the game. (The look of the Shield is based on character, not the item,
    so if you swap it between characters its appearance will change accordingly)
    Quest 24 Reward
    Ring Armor: Prt 1-3, Enc: 0
    The Shade Ring has the effect of making the character wearing it invisible to
    all enemies, though if they're close, there's a chance you'll be seen. This
    actually can make fighting monsters tougher, as it becomes difficult to predict
    their behavior, so your mileage may vary using it. However, if you want to
    finish quests without killing everything, the Shade Ring is great, as it allows
    you to slip through the ranks of enemies undetected.
                                   SECTION H: CHEATING
    There are many ways to cheat in Knights of Legend, and can actually spruce some
    life into the game once you've finished it. For example, once I've finished the
    game, I like to clear out all the quest flags so that my party can go on all
    the quests again, instead of being stuck doing nothing but random encounters
    for the rest of the game.
    Since they never programmed any expansions, sometimes cheating is practically
    necessary to advance your characters past a certain level due to the limited
    range of training facilities in Ashtalarea. Most of the cheating involves hex-
    editing your file, which is risky. BACK UP YOUR SAVE FILE before you do this!
    This is the easiest method of cheating, and the only one that I know of that
    you can do without a hex editor. It's very simple: when a character goes into
    an inn, his or her file gets saved. To duplicate an item, all you need is two
    characters, one with the item you want to duplicate. Say you want to duplicate
    the Truth Sword, which character A has. Assuming Character A with the Truth
    Sword is checked into an inn, check him out, and make sure you have character B
    in the party. Give character B the Truth Sword and have her check into an inn.
    (DON'T check character A back in!) Now quit the game (CTRL-Q for DOS, you'll
    have to reboot on Apple II) and restart. When you load, now both Character A
    and Character B will have the Truth Sword.
    While this is cheap, I suggest you do this for items like the Courage Coat. If
    you don't have the Courage Coat on all your melee characters, the game becomes
    just frustrating when you find yourself up against fear-inducing enemies.
    Just for fun, I've done a lot of messing around with the Character save file
    with a hex editor (and pretty much had to to get the stats for the magic orders
    and high-level trainers) and have been able to figure out how to all sorts of
    cool stuff in the file. If you want to try this, make sure to back up your
    CHARDATA file first--I take no responsibility if you screw up your characters
    without a backup. Also, before delving into hex editing, you are going to want
    to have at least a working knowledge of the hexadecimal system, and a
    calculator that can convert decimal to hexadecimal, and for some of the more
    advanced stuff, to binary as well. The built-in scientific calculator on both
    Mac and Windows offer easy conversions between the three to help you. And, of
    course, you'll need a hex editor of some sort. I recommend that you set up your
    hexadecimal editor so that each line has 16 bytes in it. You'll also really
    want a hex editor that displays the ASCII equivalent in your sidebar, as that
    will be immensely helpful in finding where one character's data ends and the
    next begins.
    I'm going to assume for the purposes of this section that you understand the 0-
    F hexadecimal system. Please do not email me with questions about it; there are
    many resources on the web to learn basic hex.
    Also a side note in that while hacking your save file is fun, I recommend
    cheating in moderation, as you can potentially ruin the balance of your game,
    which reduces its enjoyability. During a normal game, the only time I cheat is
    to "cash in" Adventure Points to "train" weapons without trainers (I.e. I hack
    my character's Adventure Points to a lower level and raise their weapon skills
    accordingly, as if I was training with a real trainer) or to rename armor.
    While I'll go over how to do it, I advise against doing more heavy cheating
    like hacking your stats really high, hacking your armor weight down to nothing,
    or creating uberweapons that kill Cliff Trolls in a single hit.
    The "Chardata" file is set up so that each character takes up 760 bytes of
    information. In most hex editors, this makes things easy as in hex, each new
    character starts at +00000300 (Ie, character 1 at 0x00000000, 2 at 0x00000300,
    3 at 0x00000600, 4 at at 0x00000900, 5 at at 0x00000c00, etc) It's easy to tell
    if you have an ASCII converter, as the first letter of your character's name is
    also the first byte in their datafile. Throughout this file I'll be using
    numbers as if you're editing the first character's data, but if you want to
    edit subsequent character's data, just add their amount to it. So, if I say to
    edit something at +000001AC, and you want to edit that stat on character number
    3, you'd just add 00000600 to it, so that the data you edit is at 000007AC in
    the file.
    Gold is stored in offsets +000002A-000002C and is three bytes long, for a range
    of 0 to 16,777,215 gold. It's stored in standard hex.
    Adventure Points are stored in offsets +000000026 and +00000027, for a range of
    0 to 65,535 points. They are stored in standard hex.
    Your character's Health is actually stored in terms of how seriously he or she
    is wounded. It's located at offset +00001C. The higher this number, the more
    seriously the character is wounded. Fees for healing will be 10x the value in
    this byte. It's stored in hex.
    Like Health, a character's nutrition is stored in terms of how hungry they are.
    It's located at offset +0000009F. The higher this number, the more
    malnutritioned the character is.
    Level is stored in +00000029. It's a one-per-gain thing, where 00 is a Serf and
    18 is a Knight-Baronet. Note that pumping your level does nothing but increase
    the level of the enemies that will face you--without pumping your weapon skills
    as well, you'll be at a severe disadvantage if you try to increase your level
    Your character's race and class is stored at offset +0000001D:
    00:Barbarian   01:Ranger       02:Warrion     03:Squire
    04:Darkguard   05:Watchman     06:Plainsman   07:Hunter
    08:Regular     09:Highwayman   0A:Pirate      0B:Rogue
    0C:Tigress     0D:Amazon       0E:Huntress    0F:Plainswoman
    10:Brekland(M) 11:Klvar(M)     12:Melod(M)    13:Pyar(M)
    14:Thism(M)    15:Usip(M)      16:Brekland(F) 17:Klvar(F)
    18:Melod(F)    19:Pyar(F)      1A:Thism(F)    1B:Usip(F)
    1C:Tunneler    1D:Ratguard     1E:Trollbane   1F:Militia
    20:Digger      21:Spider Guard 22:Orcbane     23:Levy
    24:Cliff Guard 25:Rock Ranger  26:Far Seeker
    The date that your character is staying in the inn is recorded in +0000007d-
    0000007f. +0000007d is the year, (00=1100AD) +0000007e is the day (00=1st) and
    +0000007F is the month. (00=January) Note that this value only changes for the
    party leader.
    I really strongly advise against doing this as it can ruin your fun, but here's
    how to edit your character's stats. Your character's 8 stats are located at
    +0000001D after the start of their data. They are:
    1D:Strength    1E:Quickness  1F:Size      20:Endurance
    21:Foresight   22:Charisma   23:Intellect
    The actual values for the stats in hex are 1.5 times the stat, rounding up. For
    example a stat of 79 will actually be recorded as 119, or "77" in hex.
    Your character's Weight actually is pre-set by race and gender:
    Human/Elven Males: 65*inches/12 - 195 lbs
    Human Females, Dwarves: 25*inches/4 -150 lbs
    Elven Females, Kelden: 35*inches/6 -210 lbs
    This makes Ashtalarea quite the Bizarro World, where women weigh more than men
    of the same height, and everyone is either buff beyond all belief or really
    really fat. It also means that if you drop your characters' heights low enough,
    they'll actually have a negative weight! (A 1'0" human male weighs negative 130
    Knights of Legend stores the text for every item you've got directly in your
    save file. If you want to, you can change the name of anything to make it more
    interesting. If you want to rename your Scale Amine "Dragon Scale" you could do
    that, for example, without actually changing the stats of your items at all.
    The game stores every item name in an 8-byte string. The first half of the
    first byte says how many letters are in the string. The remaining 7 and a half
    bytes store the name, anything up to 12 characters long. To actually create the
    name, however,
    you'll have to write it in binary code. Every 5 bits represents a single letter,
    and the remaining 7 and a half bytes are an even 60 bits--12 groups of 5 bits.
    The binary code for each letter (plus a code for a space) are below.
    00001 00010 00011 00100 00101 00110 00111 01000 01001 01010 01011 01100
     A      B     C     D     E     F     G     H     I     J     K     L
    01101 01110 01111 10000 10001 10010 10011 10100 10101 10110 10111 11000
     M      N     O     P     Q     R     S     T     U     V     W     X
    11001 11010 00000
     Y      Z   SPACE
    So, in the example above, if you wanted "Dragon Scale" you'd first find the
    section of the file that has "Scale Amine:"
    10011 00011 00001 01100 00101 00000 00001 01101 01001 01110 00101 00000
      S     C     A     L     E   SPACE   A     M     I     N     E   EXTRA*
    *The "Extra" can be anything. Since it's not used in the name, you can have any
    pattern of 1s and 0s in there and it'll still be a "Scale Amine" since those 5
    bits are ignored.
    Convert this into hex and you get "9 8C 2C 28 02 D4 B8 A0" Since there are 11
    characters (10 letters plus a space) there will be an "B" in front of it, so
    the final hex string you'll search for is "B9 8C 2C 28 02 D4 B8." Ignore the
    last byte when searching, because that "extra" string can be anything and will
    change the last byte accordingly.
    Now that you know where your Scale Amine is, you can change it "Dragon Scale."
    00100 10010 00001 00111 01111 01110 00000 10011 00011 00001 01100 00101
      D     R     A     G     O     N   SPACE   S     C     A     L     E
    Convert this to hex and you get "2 48 27 7B 81 31 85 85." Add a "C" to the
    front (because "Dragon Scale" is 12 characters long and replace
    "B98C2C2802D4B8**" (where ** indicates the last byte) with "C248277B81318585"
    Presto! Your Scale Amine is now Dragon Scale! (though its stats haven't changed
    This is probably the most "legitimate" way to cheat; seeing as how no
    expansions ever came out, there's no way to train your skills higher than
    rather low levels for most weapons. Each character can learn skills in up to 4
    weapons. Each weapon is indicated by 13 bytes, and the first weapon starts
    immediately after the text of what inn the character is staying in. (e.g.
    "STIFFNUCKL" for the inn in Thimblewald) This is +0000004A bytes after the
    start of the character. The first 9 bytes indicate what weapon the character is
    proficient in; the first 8 bytes are the encoded name of the weapon and the
    final byte is the actual code of the weapon type. The next 2 bytes indicate the
    character's offensive skill with the weapon, and the 2 bytes after that
    indicate the defensive skill. Each skill point is actually 10 skill points, so
    you multiply it by 10. E.g. a skill of 25 in-game will actually be a skill of
    250 in the file. (or in hex, FA)
    So, the addresses for each weapon skill are:
    +0000004A-00000056 = Weapon Skill 1
    +00000057-00000063 = Weapon Skill 2
    +00000064-00000070 = Weapon Skill 3
    +00000071-0000007D = Weapon Skill 4
    Below is a list of the 9 hex values of each weapon.
    89 95 86 00 9F 70 00 01 06 | Self Bow
    86 3D C7 00 9F 70 00 00 0A | Longbow
    72 B0 C0 13 EE 00 00 00 0B | Elf Bow
    B6 50 03 93 E7 31 3E E4 12 | Light Crossbow
    C4 5B 20 1C 9F 39 89 71 16 | Heavy Crossbow
    41 B2 A2 00 CF 22 86 80 34 | Club
    46 84 65 00 00 00 00 00 3C | Mace
    89 8D 2D 4D 03 20 00 00 54 | Scimitar
    C1 06 74 0C 88 09 DE 44 56 | Bastard Sword
    A3 C8 A1 A4 EE F9 10 03 57 | Greatsword
    62 04 E7 2C 8F 71 84 87 58 | Dagger
    A9 A1 F2 A4 EE F9 10 F7 59 | Shortsword
    96 3D C7 9D DF 22 68 13 5C | Longsword
    A1 49 E1 24 EE F9 10 C0 5D | Broadsword
    84 05 C4 00 70 50 00 42 74 | Hand Axe
    81 49 E1 20 70 50 00 00 75 | Broad Axe
    93 C8 A1 A0 03 82 80 00 76 | Great Axe
    A1 06 94 61 40 1C 15 27 7C | Battle Axe
    74 05 82 2C 88 00 00 00 7E | Halberd
    B9 A1 F2 A0 72 02 86 44 9C | Short Spear
    A6 3D C7 04 E0 50 C8 00 9E | Long Spear
    A4 14 36 C8 1A 1A B0 00 B4 | Heavy Maul
    AB 86 40 40 5A D2 C8 00 B5 | War Hammer
    C3 C8 A1 A0 10 16 B4 B2 B6 | Great Hammer
    8B 86 40 68 6A C0 00 00 B7 | War Maul
    B6 BE 4E 4B 8F 3A 06 40 D6 | Morningstar
    53 30 29 60 00 00 00 00 D7 | Flail
    C8 D4 32 A1 65 3A 04 C6 DC | Quarterstaff
    If for whatever reason you want skill in a "monster weapon" or the like, the
    codes for their skills are as follows (of course, you'll never be able to train
    the below skills anywhere in the game world):
    A3 26 45 04 E8 13 18 00 DE | Fire Staff
    97 9E 45 00 D9 51 00 00 36 | Ogre Club
    9B A5 C4 03 42 32 80 02 3E | Wind Mace
    AB A5 C4 04 EE F9 10 94 5E | Wind Sword
    B6 06 47 28 28 F7 1E 60 20 | Large Tongs
    So, a Halberd skill of 35/20 would be: 74 05 82 2C 88 00 00 00 7E 01 5E 00 C8.
    (015E and 00C8 are 350 and 200 in hexadecimal respectively) This way, if you
    want to raise your skill enough so that you can train at the advanced trainers,
    you'll know what values to look for. Remember only to edit the last 4 bytes, as
    that indicates the skill level. Or, if you decided you trained in the wrong
    weapon and want to really cheat, you can replace one weapon skill with another
    Hacking items is the most complicated and difficult thing in the game to hack,
    so unless you feel really comfortable with working with both hex and binary,
    you may not want to try this. Read through the whole section before you start
    diving in there, as messing up a single hex digit can screw your items up
    pretty badly.
    Your character's items are located at the following offsets within their file:
    +0x00000030 = Weapon
    +0x000000A0 = Pocket 1
    +0x000000B0 = Pocket 2
    +0x000000C0 = Pocket 3
    +0x000000D0 = Pocket 4
    +0x000000E0 = Pocket 5
    +0x000000F0 = Pocket 6
    +0x00000100 = Head
    +0x00000110 = Torso
    +0x00000120 = Legs
    +0x00000130 = Body
    +0x00000140 = Hands
    +0x00000150 = Feet
    +0x00000160 = Shield
    +0x00000170 = Neck
    +0x00000180 = Ring
    +0x00000190 = Belt
    +0x000001a0 = Magic Order
    +0x000001b0 = Horse Type
    The first 8 bytes are the name of the item encoded. Check the "Editing names of
    items/spells" section to find out how the text is encoded. The second set of 8
    bytes determine its stats, and this is where most of the nitty-gritty work is
    going to be done. Each byte (and in some cases, half of a byte) indicates a
    different property of the item, so this is a byte-by-byte analysis of what each
    This indicates a bonus or penalty to the numeric damage or defense of weapons
    and armor:
    0:0   1:+1  2:+2  3:+3
    4:+4  5:+5  6:+6  7:+7
    8:0   9:-1  A:-2  B:-3
    C:-4  D:-5  E:-6  F:-7
    The monetary value of the item. This is direct hex conversion.
    BYTE 3:
    The weight of the item. This is direct hex conversion too.
    Note that hacking the weight for armor also changes its size. If you try to
    hack a piece of platemail in your backpack so it weighs nothing, that will also
    make it so small that nobody can wear it. However, if you hack the weight of
    armor that a character is currently wearing, it'll make it too small, but the
    character will still be wearing it. As soon as you take it off, though, you'll
    never be able to put it back on. Bottom line is that if you want to hack your
    armor so that it weighs nothing, do so when your character is wearing it.
    BYTE 4:
    Quality: This refers to condition, or for food, nutritional value. It's in
    direct Hex.
    BYTE 5:
    Equipment damage/protection + Item Type: This is done in binary conversion.
    The damage calculation is as follows: there is a "die roll" and then a bonus is
    added onto it. This byte determines what type of die is rolled, and how many
    times it's rolled, and whether the weapon is a missile weapon or melee weapon.
    The first three bits determine the number of die thrown, the second three bits,
    the "sides" of the die, and the last two bits, whether or not it's a wieldable
    item (Wield) a piece of armor (Wear) a beltable melee item (Both) or neither.
    (Item) From a really anal, technical point of view, the 7th bit indicates
    whether or not the item can be worn and the 8th bit indicates whether or not
    the item can be wielded as a weapon.
    ROLLS BIN       DIE  BIN   TYPE    BIN
    1     000       d3   000   Both    11
    2     001       d4   001   Wield   01
    3     010       d6   010   Wear    10
    4     011       d8   011   Item    00
    5     100       d10  100
    6     101       d12  101
    7     110       d20  110
    8     111       d100 111
    The final damage the weapon does, or the protection the armor is afforded, is
    this calculation, plus the value indicated in the first half of the first byte,
    as covered above.
    So, a melee weapon that does 3d6 damage would be 010 010 11, or converted into
    hex, "4B." If the first half of Byte 1 (see above) was "A" that would be a
    penalty of -2, so the weapon would end up doing 3d6-2 damage, or 1-16 damage.
    If, for whatever reason, you skew your weapon/armor so that its effectiveness
    goes below 0, it loops around to 65535. So, if you gave your character a weapon
    that did 1d3-4 damage it would do from 65533-65535 damage. (Needless to say,
    this would be an uberweapon)
    BYTE 6:
    Item Type: Direct Hex. This indicates what type of weapon the item is, if any.
    The first half of the byte indicates the class of the item, and the second half
    indicates the sub-class. Below is a list of the classes and sub-classes.
      0:Armor/Food/Quest Item   1:Junk         2:Boulder     6:Self Bow
      A:Long Bow                B:Elf Bow
      2:Lt Crossbow  6:Hvy Crossbow
      0:Large Tongs
      4:Club         6:Ogre Club     C: Mace       E:Wind Mace
      4:Scimitar     6:Bastard Swd   7:Greatsword  8:Dagger
      9:Shortsword   C:Longsword     D:Broadsword  E:Wind Sword
      4:Hand Axe     5:Broadaxe      6:Great Axe    C:Battle Axe
      0:Misc         1:Shade Ring    2:Courage Coat  3:Flying Cloak
      C:Short Spear  E:Long Spear
      4:Heavy Maul   5:War Hammer    6:Great Hammer  7:War Maul
      6:Morningstar  7:Flail         C:Quarterstaff  E:Fire Staff
    BYTE 7:
    Byte 7 can be divided into two parts. The first half indicates the place on the
    body the item goes when "equipped":
    0 - Head   1 - Torso  2 - Legs    3 - Body
    4 - Hands  5 - Feet   6 - Shield  7 - Neck
    8 - Ring   9 - Belt   A - Food    E - Bow(hands)
    F - Boulder (used for monsters only)
    The second half of the byte indicates the armor's graphic on the body. For
    example, "13" would mean "Item is equipped on the Torso, and displays Torso
    Graphic 3 when equipped." (Or, "It goes on the chest and looks like a piece of
    Cuirbolli") Each body part has its own set of graphics depending on the armor
    being equipped. In the case of weapons, the graphic is derived not only from
    this number but also the weapon class (obviously, as there are more than 16
    graphics of weapons) Also note that for shields, the graphic value is more than
    just decoration; it's actually what gives the shield its defensive value.
    (0=20%, 1=30%, 2=40%, 3=50%)  BEWARE! If you give a value of a nonexistent
    graphic (for example, anything over "3" for a shield) the game will freeze when
    you try to view your paperdoll. Don't mess with this number unless you really
    know what you're doing.
    BYTE 8:
    Despite my messing with this, I can't figure out what this byte does. I believe
    that it's a pointer to indicate the size/weight ratio of armor, but I haven't
    been able to pinpoint the effects exactly. I suggest you not mess with this
    number; if you want to create, for example, really light plate armor, you're
    probably better off buying some light armor like cloth or leather, then change
    the graphic, quality, and defense values, rather than messing with this number
    and the weight value.
    Here are some codes of items that only monsters carry but don't drop, and that
    you'll never be able to get otherwise. I ripped these direct from the game code
    and make no guarantees as toward their effectiveness or usability--they may
    crash your game when equipped on player characters, so be forewarned!
    Earth: (Golem Armor)
    52 86 54 44 32 A2 1A 00 00 00 10 01 0A 00 00 C0
    52 86 54 40 00 00 00 00 10 00 87 00 0A 00 10 C0
    52 86 54 41 07 50 C8 47 20 00 2D FF 0A 80 23 42
    Water: (Sylph Armor)
    5B 86 85 90 00 00 00 00 20 00 0F 00 0A E0 0F 00
    5B 86 85 90 00 00 00 00 30 00 32 00 0A E0 1E 00
    5B 86 85 90 00 00 00 00 40 00 32 00 0A E0 2F 00
    Air: (Djinn Armor)
    30 A6 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 00 02 E0 0F 00
    30 A6 40 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 48 00 02 E0 1F 00
    30 A6 40 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 46 00 02 E0 2F 00
    Fire: (Salamander Armor)
    43 26 45 00 00 00 00 00 40 00 0A 00 0A E0 0F 00
    43 26 45 00 00 00 00 00 50 00 67 00 0A E0 1F 00
    43 26 45 00 00 00 00 00 60 00 3C 00 0A E0 2F 00
    Head Hide: (Standard)
    44 24 85 00 00 13 56 40 30 00 0C FF 06 00 02 40
    Body Hide: (Standard)
    44 24 85 20 E6 30 90 A0 30 00 6C FF 06 00 12 40
    Leg Hide: (Standard)
    44 24 85 20 E6 30 90 A0 30 00 48 FF 06 00 22 40
    Cliff Troll Hide:
    44 24 85 21 0A 1A 1C 41 40 00 0F FF 0A 00 02 40
    44 24 85 20 E6 30 90 A0 40 00 6E FF 0A 00 12 41
    44 24 85 20 E6 30 90 A0 40 00 48 FF 0A 00 22 40
    Hill Giant Plate Leggings:
    98 30 34 2B 42 96 12 04 22 BC AA B4 2A 00 28 C8
    Ettin Hide:
    44 24 85 00 00 13 56 40 10 00 0C FF 0A 00 02 40
    44 24 85 20 E6 30 90 A0 10 00 60 FF 0A 00 12 40
    44 24 85 20 E6 30 90 A0 10 00 41 FF 0A 00 22 40
    Ogre Fur Vest:
    83 56 40 B1 67 40 00 00 00 00 64 B4 2A 00 10 C5
    Stone Ogre Hide and Furs:
    44 24 85 00 00 00 00 00 30 00 0C FF 0A E0 02 00
    43 56 53 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 42 FF 2E E0 10 00
    44 24 85 00 00 00 00 00 30 00 32 FF 0A E0 22 00
    Cyclops Skin and Furs:
    49 AD 2E 21 0A 1A 00 B2 00 2D 08 FF 02 00 0F 60
    43 56 53 20 E6 30 90 A0 00 1E 6C FF 2A 00 10 4A
    Mist Giant Hide:
    44 24 85 00 00 00 00 00 30 00 66 FF 26 E0 12 00
    Muck: (Muck Thing Armor)
    46 D4 6B 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A FF 26 E0 0F 00
    46 D4 6B 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1E FF 26 E0 1F 00
    46 D4 6B 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 14 FF 26 E0 2F 00
    Lizarion Hide and Breastplate:
    44 24 85 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A E0 02 00
    B1 48 A1 9D 20 C0 D0 A4 50 00 7E FF 2A 00 18 40
    44 24 85 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A E0 22 00
    Binderak Spines and Hide:
    69 C1 2E 2C C0 00 00 00 10 00 0F FF 2A E0 08 00
    44 24 85 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 3C FF 0A E0 12 00
    44 24 85 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F FF 0A E0 22 00
    Sledge Skull:
    59 AE AC 60 00 00 00 00 00 00 19 FF 2E E0 06 00
    Mist Grub Scales:
    69 8C 2C 2C C0 00 00 00 00 00 0A FF 26 E0 05 00
    69 8C 2C 2C C0 00 00 00 20 00 46 FF 26 E0 15 00
    69 8C 2C 2C C0 00 00 07 10 00 1E FF 26 E0 25 00
    Walbar Hide:
    44 24 85 20 C6 43 D0 C2 11 B8 48 FF 0A 00 12 40
    44 24 85 21 0A 1A 00 B2 11 5E 30 FF 0A 00 22 40
    Ghoul Skin
    49 AD 2E 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 E0 0F 00
    49 AD 2E 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 E0 2F 00
    Troll Boulder:
    71 3E AC 21 64 00 00 00 00 00 46 FF 31 02 E0 00
    Cliff Troll Boulder:
    71 3E AC 21 64 00 00 00 00 00 5A FF 51 02 E0 00
    Hill Giant/Ettin/Ogre Boulder:
    71 3E AC 21 64 00 00 00 00 00 50 FF 35 02 E0 00
    Stone Ogre Boulders:
    71 3E AC 21 64 00 00 00 00 00 50 FF 4D 02 EF 00
    71 3E AC 21 64 00 00 00 20 00 50 FF 4D 02 FF 00
    Cyclops Boulder:
    71 3E AC 21 64 00 00 00 00 00 50 00 2D 02 E0 00
    Mist Giant Boulder:
    71 3E AC 21 64 00 00 00 00 00 50 FF 55 02 FF 00
    The last 16 sets of 16 bytes in a character's data information are the 16
    spells that a character can learn. (If you open it in a hex editor where each
    line is divided into 16 bytes, that makes editing things much easier) The first
    8 bytes are the spell's name--use the alphabet system above to change it. The
    second 8 bytes are what's important; they show the effects of the spell.
    The first byte of the second half indicates the race and sub-race that the
    spell effects:
    10 - Humans       20 - Elves        30 - Dwarves      40 - Kelderheit
    51 - Golems       52 - Sylphs       53 - Djinn        54 - Salamanders
    61 - Goblins      62 - Orcs         63 - Hobgoblins   64 - Great Orcs
    65 - Trolls       66 - Cliff Trolls 67 - Hill Giants  68 - Ettins
    69 - Ogres        6A - Stone Ogres  6B - Cyclopes     6C - Mist Giants
    70 - Minotaurs    71 - Muck Things  72 - Lizarions    73 - Bloms
    74 - Binderaks    75 - Sledges      76 - Mist Grubs   77 - Walbars
    81 - Gremlins     82 - Ghouls       83 - Zombies      84 - Skeletons
    The fifth byte indicates the stat the spell affects:
    0 - None          1 - Strength       2 - Quickness     3 - Foresight
    4 - Intellect     5 - Fatigue        6 - Body Points   7 - Off. Skill
    8 - Def. Skill
    The sixth byte indicates the duration of the spell. If it's 00, it's a till-
    the-end-of-combat effect; this goes for Body and Fatigue, and stats like
    Intellect and Foresight.
    The last two bytes indicate the damage and range, which is where things get
    hairy. In fact, you pretty much have to convert the last them into binary to
    work with them.
    The first byte by itself has the numerical value of the damage plus the range
    stored in it.  Let's look at a spell that does 4-24 damage at range. The first
    byte will be "B4" or in binary, 10110100. It can be broken into four sections:
    1 011 010 0
    A  B   C  D
    Section A says whether or not the spell is ranged or not. If it's ranged, this
    will be "1." If it's close range, it'll be "0."
    Section B says the number of "die" rolled:
    000 - 1   001 - 2   010 - 3   011 - 4
    100 - 5   101 - 6   110 - 7   111 - 8
    Section C says the number of "sides" of the "die" rolled:
    000 - d3    001 - d4   010 - d6   011 - d8
    100 - d10   101 - d12
    Section D is always 0.
    So, if you wanted to make something at short range that did 8d12 damage you'd
    combine 0 (short range, section A) 111 (8 "rolls", Section B) and 101 (12-sided
    "die", Section C) and 0 (Section D) to get 01111010. Convert this into hex and
    you get 7A.
    I'm not really sure what the last byte does. I can tell that it differs based
    on the race and attribute being affected, but it doesn't seem to DO anything
    obvious. Putting random values in this byte doesn't seem to affect the spell
    Overall I'd only suggest you modify spells to change the race. (since once you
    join an order, you can't get new spells for other races) If you want a new
    spell for free, it's easier to cheat your mage's Adventure Points and Gold up
    and then make it at their Order's headquarters.
    Quest Status is located in 6 bytes, starting at +000001E2. It's a binary
    conversion, but very simple.
    There are four status values for each quest:
    00 - Not given.
    01 - Quest given, quest Map open.
    10 - Quest Map cleared.
    11 - Returned with Quest Item, quest finished
    Each of the 24 quests are located in the following positions within the six
     4  3  2  1   8  7  6  5  12 11 10  9  16 15 14 13  20 19 18 17  24 23 22 21
    00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00
      BYTE  1      BYTE  2      BYTE  3      BYTE  4      BYTE  5      BYTE  6
    So, if you want to set a flag on a specific quest, just change the according
    binary digits, then convert the whole string back to hex. As the quests are the
    meat and potatoes of the game, you probably won't want to set any of these to
    "finished," but one thing I like to do is set all the quest values to "not
    given" or "Quest Map Open" once I've finished the game, so that I can play the
    quests over again. Otherwise the only thing to do once you've finished the game
    is bash monsters in random encounters, which eventually loses its charm.
    Thanks to Origin and the authors of the game for making such a classic!
    Thanks to that person on Fidonet that wrote that post on how to get Denswurth's
    quest back in '90 when I first played the game (I don't remember who you were,
    but thanks!)
                                  COPYRIGHT NOTICE
    (Cause you can't be too safe. More FAQ writers have been ripped off by people
    trying to make a quick buck than I like to think about)
    This Document is Copyright 2006 by Ian Kelley. All Rights Reserved. It is
    protected by US and International Copyright Law. It is for private and personal
    use only, and cannot be reprinted in or reproduced in part or in entirety
    without the express written consent of the author. This document is intended to
    be free and may not be used for any sort of commercial venture, be that selling
    it, giving it away as a promotion, or making otherwise making available for
    profit. It may not be used or distributed by any website, organization, or
    individual, nor may it be used as a reference or altered by anyone (such as
    strategy guide authors/publishers or magazine staff) without express permission
    of the author.

    View in: