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Guide and Walkthrough by ASchultz

Updated: 03/22/2005

Loopz FAQ(NES)
version 1.0.0 by Andrew Schultz schultza@earthlink.net

Please do not reproduce this FAQ for profit without my prior consent. 
However, if you write a polite e-mail to me referring to me(and this FAQ) by 
name, then I will probably say OK. But if I ignore you that means no--and I 
am bad about answering e-mail. Sorry.

**** AD SPACE: ****
My home page: http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/2762 

================================

            OUTLINE

  1. INTRODUCTION

  2. CONTROLS

  3. PIECES

  4. GAME A STRATEGY

  5. GAME B STRATEGY

  6. GAME C WALKTHROUGH

  7. VERSIONS

  8. CREDITS

================================

  1. INTRODUCTION

Loopz is sort of like Pipe Dreams, but with more unwieldy pieces, no next 
option, and none of that cool crossing bit. As such it can only be 
recommended to hard core puzzle gamers. Also in interminable, I mean 
indefinite, mode, the game tends to chuck out a few pieces in a row you can't 
do anything with. You have to be creative to have a chance of extending 
things, and without a next feature(the game decides the next piece based on a 
random variable. Well, why couldn't it decide the one 4 moves in advance 
based on that variable?) you can't make any significant plans despite all the 
possibilities at the computer's random disposal. Puzzle mode feels dreadfully 
clerical and, on the later levels, gives you the same depressing feeling as 
seeing someone much dumber than you typing 120WPM. Because you know what to 
plan, but you just don't have the time to shift the piece over there.

  2. CONTROLS

Push the arrow keys at the start screen and select to change the game type, 
player # or tune.

You can move a piece diagonally if you wish. You can also rotate it about a 
marked center point. A rotates the piece clockwise and B drops it.

It is illegal to drop a piece if:
1. it intersects a piece already dropped
2. the line running through it touches the edge.
3. the piece itself goes off the edge(it's only the rotational square that 
must stay in bounds, but often you won't be able to drop the piece if that 
square is on edge.)

So the left move below is OK but the right one isn't.


*.     ..*
*.     . *
*..    . *
***    ***

As the levels get faster you really need to use the time given to put your 
piece back in the center so you can decide what to do with it and not have to 
run it to the other side of the board. This goes for all versions of the 
game.

  3. PIECES AND SCORING

Loopz has several pieces and some are mirror images of each other. There's a 
dent on the square any piece rotates around.

There are two pieces of length 1, called "1-straight" and "1-bend" in this 
guide. On games a and b you also get a wild piece, which when you drop it on 
an unfinished loop zaps the whole thing. You get one point for each piece of 
loop zapped like so.

No pieces of length 2.

3-length, called "L" and 3-straight in this guide
.  .+.
+.

4-length, called "L+" and "L-" in this guide
.   .
.   .
+. .+

4-length, called "Z's" in this guide
 +. .+
..   ..

5-length, called "S's" in this guide, or U.

S+  S-   U
 .. ..  . .
 +   +  .+.
..   ..

The larger a piece is, the more annoying it can be to place.

You get most of your scoring when you create a loop. The formula is
(level + 1)*(# of squares in loop)*
(# of squares in loop + # of bends)
-----------------------------------
                  4

The top number is always even, because there must be an even number of 
squares in a loop. There also must be an even number of bends. The proof, in 
a nutshell, is if you make the board a checkerboard and start moving around. 
Each adjacent square is a move. If you start on white, then you alternate 
black/white etc. Here our walk ends on white, so there must have been an even 
number of moves i.e. squares. As for bends let's start at any edge of a 
square. Assume the passage along the loop is going west. Then let's follow 
the loop. Each bend moves you 90 degrees, i.e. between west/east and 
south/north. An odd number of bends before you come around means you're now 
facing a different direction when you get back where you were.

The upshot of this is that bigger loops get a lot more points. If you can 
keep some smaller loops off to the side or deal with 

  4. GAME A STRATEGY

You can survive for as long as you like, or at least until too many Z's and 
S's get dropped. I like to keep tabs on special bendy squares and let the 
bigger 5-ones work themselves out. I use the left four rows as follows:

+-+ +-+   +-+-+
|     |       |
+     + +     +
        |
+     + +-+-+
|     |
+-+ +-+   +-+
            |
+-+ +-+ +   +
|     | |   |
+     + +   +
|     | |
+-+ +-+ +-+

Thus I get rid of the L3's and the U's in one side area. The L-4's also fall 
that way too. You just need a couple of 1-bends. The rest of the area is open 
for dumping the Z's and S's. For these I suggest using a lot of rounded edges 
to link them together. A long twisty shape as such works well especially as 
it's nice to wipe out if it gets unwieldy. Also if you don't get too many S's 
and Z's you can be more aggressive with the big things you make. You can 
even, if you want, slowly make a big circumference around everything. I find 
that my strategy gets loops created quickly, which leads to extra guys, as 
you get an extra every 25.

Sometimes you may need or want to chuck a particularly bad piece, too. If 
there are too many S's or Z's. And if the space is getting crowded it may be 
best to take your chances and wait. Too bad there isn't a next square--but it 
would probably not fit on the screen. Unless they made that huge bar smaller.

If you really want to take S's and Z's into account you can save the right 
part for a shape like so:

     +-+ +-+
     |     |
     +     +
     |     |
+- +-+     +-+ -+
|               |

|               |
+- +-+     +-+ -+
     |     |
     +-+ +-+

Then with the top you can use the 3x1's as follows:

+- +-+-+ -+
|         |

|         |
+- +-+-+ -+

(you can also stuff 1-straights in here.)

Or you can even use the 3x1's on the very outside, building something big. 
The L's can go in the corners for this.

All this relies on not getting too many of one piece. Eventually, you will. I 
can't prove it, but the later levels seem to give more of a proportion of big 
nasty pieces. But until then you can have dumping grounds for any piece you 
want. This is only a starter to survive a while and eventually you'll get a 
feel for when you can build something bigger.

Some strategies I can find once this scrambles a bit:
--never block a loop pipeline unless you can help it, or unless you're 
clearly on your way to creating a loop that can vanish. Let's say you have 
something like this:

+ +-+
|   |
+-+ +

Each one blocks the other off.

--don't put 1-bends right in the corner. Put them 1 diagonally from a corner 
so you can get a quick turn around. Put L's in the corner.
--U's necessarily waste a space so try to keep a space to link them together.
--tight turns with several 1-bends in a row are the best way to go. This also 
lessens unused space. Having a 1x2 unused space is bad because you can only 
dump useful pieces in there.
--sometimes it's good to have a long pipeline you plan to destroy. Wild cards 
tend to come in pairs too so take advantage of that.
--always have a space for a 3-straight.
--if a piece has nowhere to go except where it would disrupt everything, you 
might want to pitch it.
--link together obnoxious Z's and S's so you can use the wild card explicitly 
on them. But always leave a 4x3 box for U's, which don't really match up well 
with other pieces.
--if you want to go along the outside, and you have a long vertical 
connection to make, maybe do something like the below to get extra loop 
points too. Beats getting 8 lousy points for a tight loop of four blocks.

 +- -+
 |   |

 |   |
-+   +-

You can also use two of the same piece to make a quick loop, i.e.

+- +-+
|    |
     +
+
|    |
+-+ -+

As for making a big compact loop I suspect that is the best strategy to get a 
good score. But sometimes it's worth it just to make a simpler space grabbing 
bend with a 3-long.

  5. GAME B STRATEGY

Game B is very similar to Game A, but the manual indicates you can get two 
bonus games out of it. First is if you get a large loop. It has to be worth 
at least 1500 points. Note that a big loop around the board is not enough. 
That only gets 46*(46+4)/4=575, and the bonus multiplier, based on the number 
of tiles on the board, only gets to x2. Which doesn't really quite make it. 
So you need loops--a lot of them. You can still go along the edge, but 
instead of relying on straight stuff, you just need to use 4 curves to make a 
couple more. The first curve gets you 48*54/4=648 points, a big improvement 
already. And you don't have to sit around waiting for 3x1's.

If you want to get to the bonus stages you'll need to take a few gambles. 
Another strategy is to dedicate the left side to a curvy twisty figure. 
You'll need at least 56 pieces, and that's assuming they all curve, which 
means at least half of the board. You can have some projects on the right for 
quick loops while you work through the big one on the left.

Bonus board B is done by clearing the level. You probably need some luck with 
wild cards here. As they tend to come in clumps, it's worth it to work on one 
big long pipeline and, when a wild card appears, start cobbling the others 
together. Save staters can also get very close to having a loop, place the 
piece that puts them one away, and then wait different periods before 
dropping to wait to get the right piece. With 

As for getting a huge point bonus for covering the board with a loop, that is 
really hopeless as far as I can see. While it's possible to populate the 
board with lots of single-benders, the odds are so against you it's not worth 
it. By the time you clear off most of the board, you'll need to get perpetual 
wild squares, which just can't happen. I've never tried to get close, though. 
Technically it's possible with save states since next pieces are determined 
on the fly, and by a random variable based on how long you take, but I don't 
have the patience.

The bonus boards aren't particularly worth it. The manual says the bonus 
multiplier doesn't decrease until you play one but that seems to be a load of 
horse pucky. And B's bonus for getting a big loop is to play one of the Game 
C levels. For clearing the board you get a bonus level where loops don't 
clear when you make them. No multiplier on this.

  6. GAME C WALKTHROUGH

Game C is an odd little variant where your memory is tested, in a way, but 
you can't remember everything. You'll start with a shape, and the game will 
start taking chunks out of it based on actual game pieces. The pieces taken 
out are shuffled, and you have to put them back to reform a loop. Note that 
you don't have to reform them to the specific loop you start with. Also note 
that any different loop formed still has the same number of bends and tiles, 
so it gives the same score. You start out with three tries and get a bonus 
one after ten levels.

It's impossible to remember what goes where at the start so you have to use 
heuristics, and this can get moderately interesting. I generally try to 
locate which bends could accomodate which pieces, and the more obvious ones, 
I wouldn't look for. Then I'd try to see which bends would have to accomodate 
a 1-piece if they disappeared. I confess--I cheated to get through this, 
diagraming things. But it's odd the game makes you play through five levels 
to get a password and flat out annoying that in some of the later levels it 
can take 30+ seconds to set up the board by removing the pieces, and then you 
can lose in 2.

The cardinal rule of game C is that, when you have a choice between filling a 
small part of the puzzle and starting on a big one, fill the small part. 
Filling in a part can never be a wrong move, but if you place a piece in that 
you weren't supposed to, you could be in trouble. The big one may require you 
to fill in a big piece or two. If you get really lost, there's always scratch 
paper and the pause key. You'll also want to remember any big pieces that 
disappear and where they should be placed.

An example:
..+... .=need to cover
.    . +=covered
+    +

Let's say you get an L3. Placing it on the right might mean you will need two 
pieces--a 1-straight and an L3. But if you placed it on the left, you would 
need either the two pieces or an L4-. The exception is when you have a 
straight line of 4 or 5 to fill in--then you have to drop in a 1-straight or 
two to leave the way for a 3-straight later(which you should not try to fill 
in with 1's. But if there's space for a 2-straight, then drop 2 1-straights 
in.)

Some tricks, if you know how the puzzle is supposed to be, include that you 
can compare both sides of a symmetrical goal-piece to see what you need. You 
can also see, with the given formation, what pieces can fit where, and if a 
place you thought could accomodate a tricky bend is only partially together, 
you can dump single pieces on there(there are no wilds in game C, 
incidentally.) You can also use the board's squares as a guide to coordinates 
which would be too hard with game A's more homogenous bit, i.e. noting the 
squares with deep craters and working directions from there. Obviously there 
are suicidal moves to avoid, such as putting part of a loops pipeline against 
a closed piece of a loop.

You get successively less time per move on each level until finally it just 
gets ridiculous, so I am including a guide to using save states.

1. have this handy guide in one window, if you choose, in case the process is 
a bit complex at first
2. have the NES emulator in another window
3. create a save state when you see the whole loop at the start of the level
4. create another one after the pieces have been taken out
5. place pieces if you're sure where they go and re-save state #2
6. if you're not sure, then reload the first state and look for where the 
piece you've currently placed is
7. if you mess up, just recall state 1, save as #2, and start all over again

For each game you can start at level (5x+1) and you get 3 lives to get to the 
next (5x+1) and get a new password. There are 50 puzzles total.

The default board is shown below, and you can often use it as a guide, sort 
of like a checkerboard in chess--i.e. you need to place a bendy piece near 
the deeply cratered or 4-cratered piece. It's vertically and horizontally 
similar.

.:.:::.:..:.:::.:.
:.::=::.::.::=::.:
.:..:..:..:..:..:.
:=::.::=::=::.::=:
.:..:..:..:..:..:.
:.::=::.::.::=::.:
.:.:::.:..:.:::.:.

Level 01:
>4
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|             |
+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+
      | |
+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+
|             |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

Note if you have a U-shaped chunk out there. If so, wait until it appears to 
fill its general area.

Level 02:

      +-+
      | |
+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+
|             |
+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+
      | |
      +-+

Again there should be some pretty obvious u-shaped pieces to fit in. You may 
have the possibility here of moving the top or bottom loop to either side if 
the right pieces get knocked out.

Level 03:

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|             |
+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+
      | |
      + +
      | |
      + +
      | |
      + +
      | |
      +-+

You might have the possibility of a L3 shape here.

Level 04:

+-+-+-+-+-+-+     +-+-+-+
|           |     |     |
+           +-+-+-+     +
|                       |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+     +-+-+-+
            |     |
            +-+-+-+

If you have a 3-long that takes spaces out, don't fill it up with 1-longs, or 
you won't have an place to put the 3. Also if you get a U piece, the bends go 
by the one-square-hole squares. Here you may also get zigzag pieces. Use them 
to fill in the bends. Note that you have two horizontal squares between each 
bendy bit.

Level 05:

    +-+
    | |
  +-+ +-+
  |     |
+-+     +-+
|         |
+         +
|         |
+-+     +-+
  |     |
  +-+ +-+
    | |
    +-+

This is actually a very easy level in terms of deciding where to place 
pieces. The only ones that work are the 1-square bends and the 1-straights. 
And this shape is easy enough to visualize and put back together.

Note that here your main concern is running out of time, so I often just re-
place the cursor in the center, or I work on one area at a time.

On solving this level you get the password XPQ for screen 6. Things get a bit 
harder now.

Level 06:
>6
    +-+
    | |
  +-+ +-+
  |     |
+-+     +-+
|         |
+-+-+ +-+-+
    | |
    + +
    | |
    +-+

Again not too many tricky long pieces but there's a possibility of a 3-L at 
where the arrow fans out.

720 points, 6956 total

Level 07:
>5
+-+-+
|   |
+   +
|   |
+   +
|   |
+   +
|   |
+   +-+-+-+-+
|           |
+           +
|           |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+

There may be a L-3 or two, and a U as well, but the shape is easily enough 
defined that you shouldn't have much trouble. You might, however, cut a chunk 
off the base of the L if you are not careful.

720 points, 7676 total

Level 08:
>2
      +-+-+   +-+-+
      |   |   |   |
+-+-+-+   +   +   +-+-+-+
|         |   |         |
+         +-+-+         +
|                       |
+         +-+-+         +
|         |   |         |
+-+-+-+   +   +   +-+-+-+
      |   |   |   |
      +-+-+   +-+-+

The bends make for a few 
2604 points, 10280 total

Level 09:
>6

+-+-+-+-+
|       |
+       +-+
|         |
+       +-+
|       |
+   +-+-+
|   |
+   +
|   |
+   +
|   |
+-+-+

There aren't too many tricky pieces to take a bite out of. Just watch for the 
left side.

704 points, 10984 total

Level 10:

+-+ +-+         +-+-+-+-+-+-+
| | | |         |           |
+ +-+ +-+-+-+-+-+           +
|                           |
+   +-+-+-+-+-+-+           +
|   |           |           |
+   +           +-+-+-+     +
|   |                 |     |
+-+-+                 +-+-+-+

Here you may have a lot of z-shapes forming. You don't have to worry about 
returning the shape exactly as it was, but you'll want to note if any big 
shapes get taken out of the bottom part. There's also the first real chance 
for an L-4 to get taken out and to be confusing--L+ could be taken from the 
DL, or L- from the DR.
3680 points, 14664 total

You get a password of JGS for this.

Level 11:
>4
+-+-+-+   +-+-+-+
|     |   |     |
+-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+
    |       |
+-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+
|     |   |     |
+-+-+-+   +-+-+-+

Here there's potential for a lot of U's at the center. Try to visualize where 
these go and this should be a breeze. You may also get L3's at the corners.
3520 points, 18184 total

Level 12:
v1
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|                                 |
+-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+   +
      |     |     |     |     |   |
      +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+

This small comb is shaped so that you have 3 squares right, down, 3 squares 
right, up, etc. Then 2 squares right at the end. With that in mind you can 
picture where any big bendy squares can go. There's no place for Z's, really, 
although you may get an S or two to put on its side and make up half a tooth 
of the comb. U's may occur in the left or the DR.

4000 points, 22184 total

Level 13:
>4
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|                       |
+-+-+-+-+-+             +
          |             |
          +             +
          |             |
          +         +-+-+
          |         |
          +         +
          |         |
          +         +
          |         |
          +-+-+-+-+-+

Watch for big pieces being taken out around the bends. An S at the right 
middle bend is a possibility, too. But most of your big pieces should be 3-
longs. You may have L's at the corners. This structure has a buffer of one 
column on the right. Note that if you have a length of 4 or 5 taken out from 
the top row, that means you can and should drop a single or two in there.

24164 points, 1980 total

Level 14:

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|                         |
+-+-+             +-+-+-+-+
    |             |
    +             +
    |             |
    +-+-+-+   +-+-+
          |   |
          +   +
          |   |
          +-+-+
2160 points, 26324 total

Level 15:
v1>5
    +-+
    | |
  +-+ +-+
  |     |
+-+     +-+
|         |
+-+     +-+
  |     |
  +-+ +-+
    | |
    +-+

This is a very easy shape to remember and, in fact, the only game piece that 
can be taken from it is a 1-square bender. So you know what piece is going to 
be next, and the main risk is that you might push the A button when you mean 
the B or vice versa. A lot of this shape is taken away, but if you just 
remember that each "side" of the diamond is 2, diagonally, you'll be OK.
1000 points, 27324 total

Password ASL for solving this.

Level 16:
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+       +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+       +
|       |                 |       |
+       +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+       +
|             |     |             |
+             +     +             +
|             |     |             |
+             +     +             +
|             |     |             |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+     +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

Although this seems like a big loop, it's easy to remember it's on the 
outside. What's trickier is to remember where it goes up. Just note that the 
inner loop turns below the blank squares with big dents, and there is also a 
bend at the two deep-depression squares in the center. Focus on the bends at 
the center to see if a L is taken out of any of them. The rest should fall 
pretty easily, but I found it tough to count how many blank squares were in 
the long horizontal inner loop. There are eight. So you probably want to put 
1-straight blocks there.

6435 points, 33759 points total

Level 17:
    +-+-+                 +-+-+
    |   |                 |   |
    +   +       +-+       +   +
    |   |       | |       |   |
+-+-+   +-+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+-+   +-+-+
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+-+-+   +-+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+-+   +-+-+
    |   |       | |       |   |
    +   +       +-+       +   +
    |   |                 |   |
    +-+-+                 +-+-+

There's a lot to memorize here: the kink in the middle, which is made up of 4 
bends on top and bottom,, and the S's and U's around the edge.

6235 points, 39994 points total

Level 18:
>5
+-+
| |
+ +-+
|   |
+-+ +-+
  |   |
  +-+ +-+
    |   |
    +-+ +-+
      |   |
      +-+ +-+
        |   |
        +-+-+
Another level as mystifyingly uncomplicated as level 15. No bendy pieces can 
fit into this, and the shape is easy enough to remember--starts 1R of the row 
with two crater shapes. The main risk may be running out of time or rotating 
a piece wrong. Just keep your cursor by where the 1-straight pieces must 
fall(left edge of shape--next to craters--or the bottom edge under the right 
center crater,) or in the center of the board, if you're worried.

1380 points, 41374 points total

Level 19:
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+       +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+       +
|       |                 |       |
+       +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+       +
|             |     |             |
+             +     +             +
|             |     |             |
+             +     +             +
|             |     |             |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+     +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

This is the same as level 16. But the difference here seems to be that you 
get a few more L pieces potentially. Count how many there are and make space 
for the right kind of L's, or you will be in trouble.

6435 points, 47809 total

Level 20:
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

This looks like it should be almost criminally easy, and indeed you'll 
probably note there are only a certain few precautions to take. The entire 
board gets wiped off. You will want to leave 3-lengths wherever possible. 
First, concentrate on the corners--what sort of bend is taken out of each? 
Note that mirroring L-4's at the corners--or a L-3 and an L-4--mean you can 
create a 3-length down the side. Work from one end to the other and remember-
-the width of the board is 18. If you remember what's in the corners you can 
start pushing out and put in the correct number of 1-lengths to go with the 
threes. It's really just modular arithmetic, and that's a fancy name for 
knowing when something's divisible by three.

Note that if you do have everything set up so that you would be happy just 
placing 3's, and a 1-straight appears, reserve the 2 squares in front of it 
for later and continue on.

Also note that if you have 3 L-4's pointing one way and one pointing 
another(or a 3-L,) then you'll have one side you need to fill in with 2 1-
length pieces. It's worth it to pause and draw out the corner pieces to make 
sure of things.
3450 points, 51259 total

You get the password PDS for solving this.

Level 21:
+-+-+-+-+                 +-+-+-+-+
|       |                 |       |
+       +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+       +
|             |     |             |
+             +-+-+-+             +
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+             +-+-+-+             +
|             |     |             |
+       +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+       +
|       |                 |       |
+-+-+-+-+                 +-+-+-+-+

This level is given to some nasty zigzags--the pattern is 4R, D, 3R, D, 3R, 
U, 3R, U, 4R. It's even enough that you should have a feel for what's where. 
Note that L's should go in a corner so that the shorter side faces down/up, 
to make way for a 1x3. There'll probably be a zigzag to the side that fits in 
too.
5994 points, 57253 total

Level 22:
>2
        +-+-+-+-+
        |       |
    +-+-+       +-+-+
    |               |
    +               +
    |               |
+-+-+               +-+-+
|                       |
+         +-+-+         +
|         |   |         |
+         +   +         +
|         |   |         |
+-+-+-+-+-+   +-+-+-+-+-+

Look for S's on the upper bends, but other than that, things are tight enough 
that you may just have a few L's or an obvious U in the middle section. Note 
this is symmetrical but has an odd width--the column is the one left of the 
board's actual center. Some of the upper curves may contain a lot of L-3's 
too. The top may have a 3-straight taken out of it, so don't put 1's there.

3360 points, 60613 total

Level 23:
1>1v
+-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+
|     |     |     |     |     |
+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +
|                             |
+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +
|     |     |     |     |     |
+-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+

Again this is something horizontally and vertically similar, but there's an 
extra row at the bottom. L-3's and Z's are the only pieces that may give you 
trouble, and the structure would be made of alternating Z's, so you will need 
to watch orientations a bit. Remember each edge of this puzzle is 1 away from 
the real edge.

4224 points, 64837 total

Level 24:
    +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
    |                         |
    +                         +
    |                         |
+-+-+         +-+-+-+         +-+-+
|             |     |             |
+             +     +             +
|             |     |             |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+     +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

No Z's to be had here and U's can only be in the bottom corners, but you may 
want to watch the orientation of L-4's taken, if any. But you won't need to 
since the turns are all pretty tight.

4002 points, 68839 total

Level 25:

      +-+-+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+-+-+
      |         | |         |
      +         +-+         +
      |                     |
+-+-+-+   +-+-+     +-+-+   +-+-+-+
|         |   |     |   |         |
+         +   +     +   +         +
|         |   |     |   |         |
+-+-+-+-+-+   +-+ +-+   +-+-+-+-+-+
                | |
            +-+-+ +-+-+
            |         |
            +-+-+-+-+-+

U's and S's may occur in the center loops or near the edges(try to keep track 
of them,) and then you may have some 3-longs but other than that you just 
have to visualize the shape and it should be OK. Most of the stuff chewed out 
of the bottom will be 1-turns.

8832 points, 77671 total

You get the password WKK for completing this.

Level 26:
5>1v
  +-+ +-+ +-+
  | | | | | |
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
|             |
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
  | | | | | |
  +-+ +-+ +-+

This one's made up entirely of short bends, so there should be no surprises. 
You can start left of the one crater with a left-loop and work right on the 
three top loops and then the three bottom ones. There's an extra row taken 
off the bottom for the horizontal/vertical similarities.

2352 points, 80023 total

Level 27:
5>
+-+-+-+-+-+
|         |
+-+-+-+-+ +
        | |
      +-+ +
      |   |
    +-+ +-+
    |   |
  +-+ +-+
  |   |
+-+   +-+-+
|         |
+-+-+-+-+-+

Again you have nothing but 1-bends and maybe a L-4 in the upper right and a 
3-straight or two. The left part of this is just right of the craters.

2754 points, 82777 total

Level 28:
3>
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|                         |
+ +-+-+-+-+               +
| |       |               |
+-+       +               +
          |               |
          +           +-+-+
          |           |
          +           +
          |           |
          +           +
          |           |
          +-+-+-+-+-+-+

No risk of Z's here but you may want to pay attention to the L's at the 
corner. Here the exact shape isn't as important as noting the quick bend in 
the UL. One other big problem is remembering how wide this is--there are 3 
empty columns on the left and just 1 on the right.

3000 points, 85777 total

Level 29:
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|               |
+-+-+           +
    |           |
    +           +
    |           |
    +           +-+-+-+
    |                 |
    +-+-+   +-+-+     +
        |   |   |     |
        +   +   +     +
        |   |   |     |
        +-+-+   +-+-+-+

An odd shape stuffed into the upper left. The row left of the two craters is 
empty. This is a tricky shape to remember, but it's not too bad to remember 
the big pieces taken out in the lower left corner.

2964 points, 88741 total

Level 30:
4>
          +-+
          | |
        +-+ +
        |   |
      +-+   +
      |     |
    +-+     +
    |       |
  +-+       +
  |         |
+-+         +
|           |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+

Another one with lots of 1-bends makes it pretty easy. Left column: craters. 
Right: 3 left of the craters. Just watch the lower right corner to see what 
sort of big pieces get taken out. You may need to distinguish where to put a 
1-straight.

1596 points, 90337 total

Password for solving this: YLY

Level 31:
1>

          +-+-+-+
          |     |
+-+-+-+   +     +   +-+-+-+
|     |   |     |   |     |
+     +-+-+     +-+-+     +-+-+-+
|                               |
+                               +
|                               |
+     +-+-+     +-+-+     +-+-+-+
|     |   |     |   |     |
+-+-+-+   +     +   +-+-+-+
          |     |
          +-+-+-+

A U goes on the right, an S goes in the center bit, and there may be some L-
3's too along with some Z's on the right side--o at the final links to the 
left bend. Note that some squares that disappear must have 1-bends in them if 
they don't have Z's. So try to locate where the Z's go and note anything that 
is gone but not with a Z. That's where 1-bends will go. The L-3's tend to go 
in the center and on the edges. I didn't get any L-4's.

6916 points, 97253 total

Level 32:
+-+-+-+   +-+-+-+   +-+-+-+   +-+-+   
|     |   |     |   |     |   |   |
+     +   +     +   +     +   +   +
|     |   |     |   |     |   |   |
+     +   +     +   +     +   +   +
|     |   |     |   |     |   |   |
+     +-+-+     +-+-+     +-+-+   +
|                                 |
+           +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+   +
|           |     |     |     |   |
+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +   +
|     |                       |   |
+-+-+-+                       +-+-+

This one is not symmtrical, but it has a 3 on top/2 on bottom at the top and 
you have 3-rows at the bottom. You may have a lot of Z's to use down there 
and L's on top. Probably it's best to pay attention to what exactly happens 
on the right edge.

11760 points, 109013 total

Level 33:
+-+-+   +-+-+   +-+-+   +-+-+
|   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+   +   +   +   +   +   +   +
|   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+   +   +   +   +   +   +   +
|   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+   +-+-+   +-+-+   +-+-+   +-+-+
|                               |
+   +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+     +
|   |                     |     |
+   +                     +-+-+-+
|   |
+-+-+

Here you need to focus on the bottom bit. I found the upper bit got taken out 
with a bunch of U-loops. And if anything up there is not a U, then it will 
have a lot of 1-length pieces. If you don't have a Z in the DR, that's more 
easy pieces to place.

9632 points, 118645 total

Level 34:
+-+-+-+     +-+-+ +-+-+-+
|     |     |   | |     |
+     +-+-+-+ +-+ +     +
|             |   |     |
+-+-+-+       +   +     +-+-+-+
      |       |   |           |
      +-+-+-+ +-+-+           +
            |                 |
            +                 +
            |                 |
            +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

The tight loop in the upper center, if it disappears, is where you place the 
1-squares you get at first. The others require L's although there's a couple 
of possible Z's in columns 3-5 and a differently-oriented one in 6-8. But 
watch for the bends that take out the corners on the lower and right lines. 
It's important to get those right. Then the rest should fall.

6552 points, 125197 total

Level 35:
      +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+-+-+-+
      |     |     |           |
  +-+-+     +-+-+-+       +-+-+
  |                       |
  +                   +-+-+
  |                   |
+-+                   +
|                     |
+                   +-+
|                   |
+-+-+     +-+-+-+   +
    |     |     |   |
    +-+-+-+     +-+-+

There's a chance for Z's on the DR bendy part and at the bottom, too--and if 
it's not Z's it's nothing. This pretty much ensures that there are some 1-
pieces in the lower left, onless something's already there. The top bit needs 
Z's too or a bunch of 1-pieces. So the bends are predictable--just remember 
that you have to keep putting alternate Z's in front of each other to move in 
a relatively straight path.

You may lose a lot of bricks here, so remember that 

 ..
..

can go with the left bit over a center crater to start.

5665 points, 130832 total

Password RFV for completing this.

Level 36:
        +-+-+     +-+-+
        |   |     |   |
+-+-+   +   +     +   +   +-+-+
|   |   |   |     |   |   |   |
+   +   +   +     +   +   +   +
|   |   |   |     |   |   |   |
+   +-+-+   +-+-+-+   +-+-+   +
|                             |
+                             +
|                             |
+   +-+-+-+   +-+   +-+-+-+   +
|   |     |   | |   |     |   |
+-+-+     +-+-+ +-+-+     +-+-+

Nice horizontal symmetry. Use it to determine what goes where. U's on the 
very top, L-3's under them, and Z's on the bottom.

9765 points, 140597 total

Level 37:
          +-+-+-+
          |     |
    +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+
    |                 |
+-+-+                 +-+-+-+
|                           |
+                           +-+-+-+
|                                 |
+-+-+     +-+-+-+                 +
    |     |     |                 |
    +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+
                      |     |
                      +-+-+-+
Again at the bottom Z's are the only thing that can go. Maybe you'll get a O 
on the right side, but there isn't that much else that will work. The key may 
be deciding where to place something in an open field. Keep in mind each Z-
piece is 3 wide and the positioning moves 1 up or 1 down with each 3-wide. 
Most of the bottom part alternates Z-pieces so you can just focus on that for 
your first piece to drop. The Z-pieces are all the same for the UR, and 
mirrored for the UL.

6048 points, 146645 total

Level 38:
+-+-+         +-+-+-+       +-+-+-+
|   |         |     |       |     |
+   +   +-+-+-+     +   +-+-+     +
|   |   |           |   |         |
+   +-+-+           +-+-+     +-+-+
|                             |
+-+-+                         +-+-+
    |                             |
+-+-+       +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+   +
|           |     |     |     |   |
+     +-+-+-+     +     +     +   +
|     |           |     |     |   |
+-+-+-+           +-+-+-+     +-+-+

Ugh...a hideous mess. Columns 3-8 are z-infested but there are some coruers 
in the big loops that have L-3 and L-4's. Look for S's too in the center 
area.

12740 points, 159385 total

Level 39:
>4
+-+-+-+-+   +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|       |   |             |
+ +-+-+-+   + +-+-+-+-+-+-+
| |         | |
+ +         + +-+-+-+-+-+-+
| |         |             |
+ + +-+-+   +-+-+-+-+-+-+ +
| | |   |               | |
+ + +-+ +               + +
| |   | |               | |
+ +-+-+ +-++-+-+-+-+-+-+- +
|                         |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
There are so many bends here that I'd just pay attention to what big pieces 
get wiped out. 4 columns on the left as buffer, 3 on the right and try to 
remember what 4-L's fit where. I'd also try to fill out the right bit as soon 
as possible, or when I have the time, so I don't have to keep draggin the 
cursor back to the center in time.

10164 points, 169549 total

Level 40:
+-+   +-+-+   +-+-+   +-+-+ +-+-+-+
| |   |   |   |   |   |   | |     |
+ +   +   +   +   +   +   + +-+-+ +
| |   |   |   |   |   |   |     | |
+ +   +   +   +   +   + +-+   +-+ +
| |   |   |   |   |   | |     |   |
+ +   +   +   +   +   + +   +-+   +
| |   |   |   |   |   | |   |     |
+ +-+-+   +-+-+   +-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+
|                             |
+                             +
|                             |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

You can only get U's and L's in the loops on top, so that should not be a 
worry. Look for what sort of L's get placed on the outer bends and this 
should not be too bad.
19152 points, 188701 total

You get the password PRC for completing this.

Level 41:
>1
          +-+-+-+-+         +-+-+
          |       |         |   |
          + +-+-+ +         +   +
          | |   | |         |   |
      +-+-+ +   + +-+       +   +
      |     |   |   |       |   |
      +     +   +-+-+     +-+ +-+
      |     |             |   |
      +     +             +   +
      |     |             |   |
++-+-+-     +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+   +
|                             |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

There are a lot of bizarre L shapes here to keep track of with the inner 
upper loop being particularly tricky.

12384 points, 200317 total

Level 42:
+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|           |
+           +           +-+ +-+
|           |           | | | |
+           +-+-+-+-+-+-+ +-+ +-+-+
|                                 |
+           +-+-+-+-+-+-+ +-+ +-+-+
|           |           | | | |
+           +           +-+ +-+
|           |
+-+-+-+-+-+-+

The right part of the key can't have any fancy shapes, so we can just watch 
the six bends on the left to see what to place where. And of the four in 
column 7, only two can be used with a longer piece. The main trick here is to 
get everything going quickly. You'll need to use the diagonal a lot right 
after you get a piece, and I'd keep the cursor in the center after placing 
something. Rotate the 1-bends too.

7904 points, 208221 total

Level 43:
+-+-+-+   +-+-+-+   +-+-+-+   +-+-+
|     |   |     |   |     |   |   |
+     +   +     +   +     +   +   +
|     |   |     |   |     |   |   |
+     +   +     +   +     +   +   +
|     |   |     |   |     |   |   |
+     +-+-+     +-+-+     +-+-+   +
|                                 |
+           +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+   +
|           |     |     |     |   |
+     +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +   +
|     |                       |   |
+-+-+-+                       +-+-+

This is level 32 revisited but the difference seems to be that you have more 
L3's and fewer U's at the top. Oh, and almost the whole board is gone. There 
will probably be Z's on the bottom, so remember that they are 3-wide.

12780 points, 221661 total

Level 44:
    +-+-+
    |   |
    +   +   +-+-+
    |   |   |   |
    +   +   +   +-+-+-+
    |   |   |         |
+-+-+   +-+-+         +
|                     |
+             +-+-+-+ +-+-+-+-+-+
|             |     |           |
+       +-+-+-+     +-+-+-+     +
|       |                 |     |
+-+-+-+-+                 +-+-+-+

Z's make up the bottom loop, so watch the bends on the top loop. Also there 
may be S's on the left edge and when the loop turns back from the right. The 
second-top loop is where you will have some short pieces to throw away.

7696 points, 229357 total

Level 45:
+-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+
|   | |   | |   | |   | |   | |   |
+ +-+ +-+ + + +-+ +-+ + + +-+ +-+ +
| |     | | | |     | | | |     | |
+ +-+-+-+ +-+ +-+-+-+ +-+ +-+-+-+ +
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+ +-+-+-+ +-+ +-+-+-+ +-+ +-+-+-+ +
| |     | | | |     | | | |     | |
+ +-+ +-+ + + +-+ +-+ + + +-+ +-+ +
|   | |   | |   | |   | |   | |   |
+-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+ +-+-+
The only tricky bits here are remembering where to put the L3's and also 
noting what happens on the left/right edges. L3's go two squares against the 
top/bottom edge with one square above/below the crater in the center. Columns 
5-8, top and bottom, reflected horizontally. So try to save these. Things are 
getting so fast that you have to anticipate or locate the next place to put 
each of the three pieces: L3, 1-bend and 1-straight. And maybe a 3-straight 
on the edges.

39160 points, 268517 total

Password NHM here.

Level 46:
+-+-+-+     +-+-+     +-+-+-+
|     |     |   |     |     |
+ +-+-+     +   +     +     +
| |         |   |     |     |
+ +-+-+-+-+-+   +     + +-+-+
|               |     | |
+               +     + +
|               |     | |
+     +-+       +     + +
|     | |       |     | |
+     + +       +-+-+-+ +-+-+-+-+-+
|     | |                         |
+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

On this level the pieces come ridiculously fast and I recommend the save 
state trick. I'm at a bit of a loss for original advice here, but the last 
for levels are a bit easier to conceptualize and a bit fairer. The later ones 
make sense. This--look for 1x3's on the bottom and U's and L's other places. 
Remember where the L's go. The upper left is a good place to start dumping 1-
sized pieces.

13536 points, 282053 total

Level 47:
  +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
  | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+                                 +
|                                 |
+-+                             +-+
  |                             |
  +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
    | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
    +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+

There's a big long yawny pause before this starts and ample opportunity for 
screwing the pooch on the busy work after this. You probably don't need a 
save state to solve this but it may make an involuntary slip up less annoying 
to retrack. Just build the sequence of 1-bends up piece by piece. You can get 
the cursor where you want before the next piece shows. Just don't mess up the 
rotation. And remember, 1 hole in the UR/UL and a triangle of 3 open squares 
in the DL/DR.

The advice "one piece after another" may seem a bit simple but basically 
remember that if you start near a clump of squares then putting a bend at the 
next square in the sequence has only two possibilities most of the time, 
assuming you place one end of the piece so it hooks up with that clump: 
bending into another piece or the correct way. At the edges there's an issue 
i.e. 1U1L of the DR. Then you have a legitimate choice and need to avoid the 
three corner squares.

23052 points, 305157 total

Level 48:
        +-+             +-+
        | |             | |
      +-+ +-+         +-+ +-+
      |     |         |     |
    +-+     +-+     +-+     +-+
    |         |     |         |
  +-+         +-+ +-+         +-+
  |             | |             |
+-+             +-+             +-+
|                                 |
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
  | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
  +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+

Another rapid response level. 1 square in the DL/DR and 10 squares of a 4x4 
right triangle in the UL/UR. There are three more triangles formed. They are 
made of 3 rows--width 2, 4 and 6. There should be enough pieces left to 
direct you when to make a turn. But here you'll have a lot more chances to 
mess up. Just remember you have an M-shape to complete, with an underline 
underneath(the bottom two rows have only one way to go.)

18396 points, 323653 total

Level 49:
+-+ +-+-+-+ +-+-+-+ +-+-+-+ +-+-+-+
| | |     | |     | |     | |     |
+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ +
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+ + | + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+ +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +
|     | |     | |     | |     | | |
+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+ +-+-+-+ +-+-+-+ +-+

Here there may be some confusion with what sort of L's get placed where. Look 
for L4's first--make a note to place any you find exactly where they are, and 
don't move anything else.

You'll also have some 3-straights but these should not be difficult to place-
-or preserve. I got mostly L-3's but pay attention to where an L-4 can go. 
Note that if a column is completely clear from rows 2-6, or it just has a 1-
bend, then you can and should place a vertical 1 in it if you've got nowhere 
else to place it. The question is: where? Next to the bend, if you can.

Also note that some points pretty much require 1-bends, and you should locate 
them. The big mistake to avoid is putting a 1-bend between a L3 and a 1-bend 
vertically. That means you need 2 more 1-bends. Never close the door on a 
possibility of a 3-bend. 

3-straights are best off leaving the option of a 3-bend next to them. They're 
usually pretty safe to place vertically, covering rows 3-4-5, anywhere.

As for dumping the 1-bends: if there's a 1-bend of a certain orientation one 
place, there'll be one 4 squares right/left if that's on the play field. The 
tough part may be locating a good place to drop a 1-straight.

800000 points, 403653 total

Level 50:
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+ +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +
|     | |     | |     | |     | | |
+ +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ +
| | |     | |     | |     | |     |
+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ + + +-+ +
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+

This looks more hideous than the previous level, but in fact it really isn't. 
Because the 3-straights are pretty clearly delineated, and everything else is 
a 1-bend which must work around or into them.

If you have one 1x3 left outside the edges, use it as a reference. 
Alternatively you can place the first 1x3 at column 2, rows 4-5-6 and put the 
next one next to it and switch to rows 2-3-4 every other column.

Also note that from the top, the bends should not be on the second row in 
columns 4 and 5. They change every 2 columns as well. From the bottom, the 
bends should not be on the second row for columns 2 and 3, and this 
alternates every 2 columns. Knowing this you can recreate how things are 
supposed to be. Put and 1-straights on the very edges but leave room for a 3-
straight in either case. In any case--only one 3-straight per column. If 
you've got one, the other bits need to be filled in with 1-bends. And be on 
the alert for when a 1-straight appears--take a brief look to see which side 
needs it and move diagonally.

You may want to fill what you can from left to right to prevent your time 
from being used up.

90000 points, 493653 total

You get a Game Over screen for getting this far. Thank you--have a nice day. 
What a rip job.

Oh, wait, no. If you manage not to rip the cartridge out(OK, why pretend? Hit 
F4 and delete the file from your disk and all the save states...)
"Congratulations! You are a super Loopz player"
End of FAQ proper

================================

  7. VERSIONS

3/23/2005 sent to GameFAQs with complete basic strategy, with diagrams of 
Game C in PNG form. Can't help but thinking it'd be better with a "next" 
feature for this game.

  8. CREDITS

CJayC for creating GameFAQs.
The folks on the FAQ board who brought my NES FAQ completion topic to 500-- 
and Devin Morgan's continuation of it to 200+ as of this writing. You guys 
are very cool.
The FCEU folks for creating such a good emulator. The save states helped 
immensely.
The usual GameFAQs gang. They know who they are, and you should, too, because 
they get some SERIOUS writing done. Good people too--bloomer, falsehead, 
lisanne, Masters, RetroFreak, Sashanan, Snow Dragon/Brui5ed Ego, ZoopSoul, 
and others I forgot.
Atarihq.com which had the manual describing the different game variations and 
objectives.

View in:

Old school guide/map writer. Also the author of text adventures Ailihphilia, Shuffling Around/A Roiling Original (anagrams,) Very Vile Fairy File, Quite Queer Night Near, The Problems Compound, Threediopolis and Fourdiopolis.