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FAQ/Walkthrough by TownRanger
Version: Final | Updated: 04/03/17
_______________________________________________________________________________ _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ___ __ / | ______________ _____/ /__ / /| | / ___/ ___/ __ `/ __ / _ \ / ___ |/ / / /__/ /_/ / /_/ / __/ /_/ |_/_/ \___/\__,_/\__,_/\___/ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ _____________________________________ ______ _ _ _ _____ ___ TM | ___ \ | | | | | | | __ \ / | | |_/ / __ _| |_| |_| | ___ | | \/ ___ __ _ _ __ / /| | | ___ \/ _` | __| __| |/ _ \ | | __ / _ \/ _` | '__| / /_| | | |_/ / (_| | |_| |_| | __/ | |_\ \ __/ (_| | | \___ | \____/ \__,_|\__|\__|_|\___| \____/\___|\__,_|_| |_/ (R) Taito _____ _ _ ___________ ____ | __ \ | | |_ _| _ \ __| | | \/ | | | | | | | | | |__ | | __| | | | | | | | | | __| | |_\ \ |_| |_| |_| |/ /| |___ \____/\___/ \___/|___/ \____/ ( FINALIZED ) ______________________________________ Finalized Version 4 April 2017 Copyright (C) 2005--2017 by TownRanger ______________________________________ Since Taito (R) has released Battle Gear 4 Tuned for long with a few updated patches up to the date when this guide is last revised on 19 January 2009. Now that I have come to a decision to finalizing this guide. Thank you but I am NOT replying to emails, discussion threads, private messages etc. anymore. Quit trying to reach me; well, honestly I don't think any one will be. Thank you for all your support! ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~ "-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-"-" :.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.: : ------------------------------------------------------- : : Arcade: Battle Gear 4 : : ------------------------------------------------------- : : ___________________________ : : ____________/ FAQ/Walkthrough FINALIZED \____________ : : | | : : | Platform - Arcade | : : | The Game - Battle Gear 4 | : : | Producer - Taito (R) | : : | Genre - Driving | : : | =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= | : : | The File - FAQ/Walkthrough Version Final | : : | File size - 328 kb | : : | File pages - 246 in Mircosoft Word (R) | : : | (Font: Courier New; Size: 10pt)| : : | Author - TownRanger | : : | Email - (See Chapter X, Code: %CntSubk)| : : | First published - 11 August 2005 | : : | Last revised - 19 January 2009 | : : | Finalized - 4 April 2017 | : : |_____________________________________________________| : : : : -------------------------------------------------------- : :':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':':': _______________________________________________________________________________ D I S C L A I M E R _______________________________________________________________________________ Battle Gear 4 (TM) is copyright Taito (R). All car makes, car models, and arcade games that appear in this document belong to their respective manufacturers / owners. The writer has no affiliation or association with Taito (R), any arcade game producers, or any car manufacturers mentioned in this document. All copyrights are acknowledged. This document and its contents are copyright 2005 - 2017 TownRanger. This document may be not be reproduced under any circumstances except for personal, private use. This document cannot be placed on any website and/or otherwise distributed publicly without my advanced written permission. The use of this document on any other website or as a part of any public display is strictly prohibited, and is a violation of copyright. A lot of research, compilation, and translation are done in the writing of this document which takes time and effort. If you want to use or link this document on your non-profit making website that grants readers free access, always email me for my permission first. Notice also that permission may or may not be granted. _________________ [End of Disclaimer] _______________________________________________________________________________ T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S _______________________________________________________________________________ (To find something quick, hold the Control and the F key to trigger the Search function. Copy, and paste the shortcut code into the Search. Press Find to skip right into the section you are looking for.) -= Chapter =- -= Shortcut =- CHAPTER I: INTRODUCTION 1) About 1.1 Version History .............................. %VHistI1 1.2 About This Guide ............................. %AbFAQI2 1.3 Battle Gear 4 ................................ %AbBG4I3 1.4 Battle Gear 4 Tuned Version (Pro) ............. %AbBG4T4 2) References 2.1 Additional Sources ........................... %RAdSI21 2.2 Contributors ................................. %CtbrI22 CHAPTER II: GAME BASICS 3) Getting Started 3.1 The Machine Setup ............................ %MStUp31 3.2 Starting a Game .............................. %StGme32 4) Game Modes, Course, Car and Tune Selections 4.1 Race Mode .................................... %RacMd41 4.2 TA Mode ...................................... %TA.Md42 4.3 Battle Mode .................................. %BtlMd43 4.4 Multi-player Race Mode ....................... %MpRMd44 4.5 Choosing your Car ............................ %ChCar45 4.6 Choosing a Course ............................ %ChCrs46 4.7 Choosing a Tune .............................. %ChTun47 5) Awards 5.1 BG Points .................................... %BGPts51 5.2 Drift Points ................................. %DrtPt52 5.3 Skill Points ................................. %SklPt53 5.4 BG4 Titles ................................... %BGTtl54 CHAPTER III: THE INTERNET MY GARAGE ONLINE 6) The Netkey, and My Garage Registration 6.1 Which Car is the Best? ....................... %Best?61 6.2 Purchasing the Netkey ........................ %PurKey2 6.3 Online Registration of My Garage ............. %ORgMY63 6.4 Login/Logout ................................. %LgIOt64 6.5 Retrieving Login Name/Password ............... %Rtrvl65 7) My Garage 7.1 Do's and Don't's ............................. %DsDnts7 7.2 Access to your Car via My Garage ............. %ToMGg72 7.3 The Important Pages .......................... %ImpPg73 7.4 Access a Setup aka Setting ................... %AcSUp74 7.5 Parts Change ................................. %PtChn75 7.6 Sticker Addition ............................. %StkAd76 7.7 AT/MT/Reverse MT Toggling .................... %AMRTT77 7.8 Special Shiyou (Sample/Vinyled) Cars ......... %SSVC378 CHAPTER IV: TUNES, PARTS, AND SETUPS 8) Tuning--Performance Upgrades 8.1 Brake ........................................ %TnBrk81 8.2 Tyres ........................................ %TnTrs82 8.3 Suspensions--Front Stabilisers ............... %SFASb83 8.4 Suspensions--Rear Stabilisers ................ %SRASb84 8.5 Suspensions--Spring Set ...................... %SSpgS85 8.6 Spring Set--Springs .......................... %StSpg86 8.7 Spring Set--Dampers .......................... %StDmp87 8.8 Spring Set--Ride Heights ..................... %StRHt88 8.9 Bodykit ...................................... %BdyKt89 8.10 Traction--Transmission ...................... %TrTmn80 8.11 Traction--Final Gear Ratio .................. %TrFGR8a 8.12 Traction--Gearbox ........................... %TrGBx8b 8.13 Aeroparts ................................... %TnAPt8c 8.14 Engine--Swapping Engine Type ................ %TESpE8d 8.15 Engine--Engine Levels ....................... %TEElv8e 8.16 Engine Coolant .............................. %TECln8f 8.17 Mufflers .................................... %TnMfl8g 9) Dress Up--Visual Upgrades 9.1 Body Colour .................................. %VBdCl91 9.2 Headlight Colour ............................. %HltCl92 9.3 Mud Flaps .................................... %VMFps93 9.4 Accessories .................................. %VAcRf94 9.5 Rims (Affects Performance!) ................... %VRWP!95 9.6 Circumference Colour ......................... %CmfCl96 9.7 Rims Colour .................................. %RWClr97 9.8 Window Colour ................................ %VWdCl98 9.9 Boost Meter .................................. %VBstM99 9.10 Oil Pressure Indicator ...................... %VIOPI90 9.11 Oil Thermometer ............................. %VIOTm9a 9.12 Tachometer .................................. %VTcmt9b 9.13 Clock ....................................... %VIUCk9c 9.14 Water Thermometer ........................... %VWtTm9d 10) Setting Up Your Car 10.1 Stability and Control ....................... %SbCtl01 10.2 Engine Power Output ......................... %EPOpt02 10.3 Grip VS Drift ............................... %GpDrf03 10.4 Advanced Tips and Suggestions ............... %ATpSn04 10.5 Boost Positions ............................. %BPbps05 CHAPTER V: DRIVING TIPS 11) Driving Guidelines 11.1 General Driving Tips ........................ %DGDTpa1 11.2 Camera Viewpoints ........................... %DCVPta2 11.3 Drivetrains--FF, FR, MR, 4WD ................ %DDTrna3 11.4 Speed Control ............................... %DSCtla4 11.5 Cornering--Line-taking ...................... %DLnTka5 11.6 Cornering--Apex Hugging ..................... %DApxHa6 11.7 Drifting--Inertia Drift ..................... %DDInDa7 11.8 Drifting--Braking Drift ..................... %DDBkDa8 11.9 Drifting--Sidebrake Drift ................... %DDSbDa9 11.10 Drifting--Straight Drift ................... %DStDta0 11.11 Drifting--Powerslide ....................... %DPwrSaa 11.12 Drifting--Shifting Drift ................... %DShfDab 11.13 Drifting--Feint Motion (Weight Transfer) ... %DFMWFac 11.14 Drifting--4WD Drift ........................ %D4WDDad CHAPTER VI: COURSE GUIDE 12) Courses 12.1 Choushoukyuu--Ultra Beginner Level .......... %CCSKDb1 12.2 Shoukyuu--Beginner Level .................... %CSIDMb2 12.3 Chiuukyuu--Intermediate Level ............... %CCunkb3 12.4 Joukyuu--Advanced Level ..................... %CJMncb4 12.5 Choujoukyuu--Upper Advanced Level ........... %CCJSMb5 12.6 Dokyuu--Dreadnought Level ................... %CDAknb6 12.7 Choudokyuu--Ultra Dreadnought Level ......... %CCDEub7 CHAPTER VII: CAR GUIDE 13) Cars, Reviews, and Optimum Settings 13.1 Citroen Xsara Coupe VTS ..................... %VTSCnc1 13.2 Ford Focus ST170 ............................ %WF0Fdc2 13.3 Honda--Accord Euro-R ........................ %CL7Hdc3 13.4 Honda--Fit 1.5S ............................. %GD3Hdc4 13.5 Honda--Integra Type R ....................... %DC5Hdc5 13.6 Honda--NSX type S ........................... %NA2Hdc6 13.7 Honda--S2000 ................................ %AP1Hdc7 13.8 Mazda--Atenza 23Z ........................... %GG3SMc8 13.9 Mazda--Demio Sport .......................... %DY5Mdc9 13.10 Mazda--Roadster RS-II ...................... %NB8CMc0 13.11 Mazda--RX-7 Type RS ........................ %FD3SMc1 13.12 Mazda--RX-8 Type S ......................... %SE3PMc2 13.13 Mini Mini Cooper S ......................... %RE16Nc3 13.14 Mitsubishi Motors--Colt Plus Sport-X ....... %Z23WCc4 13.15 Mitsubishi Motors--Lancer Evolution IX GSR .. %CT9ALc5 13.16 Nissan--Fairlady Z Version ST .............. %Z33FLc6 13.17 Nissan--March 12SR ......................... %AK12Nc7 13.18 Nissan--Silvia spec-R Aero ................. %S15NSc8 13.19 Nissan--Skyline GT-R V-specII .............. %BNR34c9 13.20 Peugeot 206 RC ............................. %206Pgk0 13.21 Renault Lutecia Renault sport V6 ........... %BL7Xbk1 13.22 Subaru--Impreza WRX STi spec C ............. %GDBSbk2 13.23 Subaru--Legacy B4 2.0 GT spec.B ............. %BL5Sbk3 13.24 Toyota--Altezza RS200 L Edition ............. %SXE10k4 13.25 Toyota--Celica TRD Sports M ................ %ZZT2315 13.26 Toyota--MR-S S Edition ..................... %ZZW30k6 13.27 Toyota--Supra RZ ........................... %JZA80k7 13.28 Toyota--Trueno GT Apex 3door ............... %AE86Tk8 13.29 Toyota--Vitz RS 1.5L 3door ................. %NPC13k9 13.30 Volkswagen New Beetle Turbo ................ %9CAVcb0 CHAPTER VIII: FAQ 14) Q&A/Summary ....................................... %QASmy8d 15) World Records, and Statistics 15.1 Hall of Fame ................................ %WSHoFe1 15.2 The WR Index ................................ %WSWRIe2 15.3 Cars Rankings ............................... %WSCRne3 16) The Swappables 16.1 Swappable Engine List ....................... %TSEnLf1 16.2 Changeable Drivetrain List .................. %TSCDTf2 17) Bugs and Glitches 17.1 No New Internet Browser ..................... %FBugGG1 17.2 No Level Backtrack .......................... %FBugGG2 17.3 Link Play Trap .............................. %FBugGG3 17.4 The Hidden Daytona Course ................... %FBugGG4 CHAPTER IX: MISCELLANEOUS 18) Resemblances aka "The Ricers Section" 18.1 Resemblance of Cars in Initial D ............ %MRsmIDh 18.2 Resemblance of Cars in FnF .................. %MRsmFFh 19) Machine Locations ................................. %MnLoctn CHAPTER X: CONCLUSION 21) Contacts / Submissions ............................ %CntSubk 22) Credits ........................................... %XCrditl ________________________ [End of Table of Contents] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER I: INTRODUCTION _______________________________________________________________________________ This chapter outlines some general background information about the game, this document, and the sources of information in compiling this guide. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) About ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This section deals with: (1.1) Version History - The updating record of this guide (1.2) About This Guide - Software involved and locations of this guide (1.3) Battle Gear 4 - The game focused in this guide (1.4) Battle Gear 4 Tuned (Pro) - The upgraded version of the game after this guide is published =============================================================================== 1.1 Version History .............................. %VHistI1 =============================================================================== Revisioning of this guide is always jotted down in this section. Every hundredth of a version number counts towards the tweaking of the text or the layout, for example, the fixing of typos, grammars, or the layout. After such minor modificiations are done, I will indicate a newer version by adding a 0.01 or 0.02 depending on the amount of the correction work done. Every 0.03rd to 0.99th of a version number indicates the addition of new information. That can be things like new ideas in doing a course, data of cars/ courses/parts, or information about tunes and setups. Again, the number increases with how big the work done is. Every unith of a version means I have rewritten the guide in a whole or in more than 80% of the overall contents. Every English letter put at the end of the version number indicates an acknowledgement of website(s) which accept(s) hosting this guide. The letter will be left out in the next revision if I have done some more modifications other than adding the sites. _____________ Version Alpha: Today I was inspired to buy a key, and then to write all these. 8 Aug 2005 - First draft, Unpublished (6kb) ____________ - Added the Disclaimer, FAQ, Contributions, and Credits sections Version Beta : Boredom drives me to go ahead with this guide. 9 Aug 2005 - Second draft, Unpublished (19kb) - Edited a majority of the text - Finished the format and organisation of this document ____________ - Fixed the layout problem Version 0.06 : Addicted to BG4. *Mind lost* 10 Aug 2005 - Added the Game Basics section 33 kb - Edited the format of the section dividers _____________- Fixed some typos Version 0.13a: Can't put up with the inadequancies that remain in this guide. 11 Aug 2005 - Added the Drivetrains subsection 38 kb - Credited the very best site owners CJayC and Kenshin - Edited some text - Fixed all the typos - Fixed a numbering error - Rewrote some subsections in Introduction ____________ - Rewrote and reorganised the whole Game Basics Section Version 0.24 : Tomorrow is the day we turn into a host family; my cousin's 13 Aug 2005 going to spend two entire weeks in my home. I'm sure he'll 64 kb occupy my PC to play Sims 2 day and night. The game lags in his PC so he's gonna play it on mine. I gotta grasp the time to write this guide. - Added some websites - Added Courses - Drafted Driving Techniques, and Tunes and Parts - Edited a majority of the text - Fixed some typos ____________ - Rewrote Section 1 Version 0.34 : I'm not at sitting at a full-tune yet but my times on Monaco. 14 Aug 2005 and Akina drastically improve 72 kb - Added an ASCII title - Added Tunes and Parts - Fixed all the section and subsection dividers ____________ - Fixed some numbering errors Version 0.48 : I got to do a revision. I won't have time to play the game once 8 Sept 2005 after school starts. 115 kb - Added IGN's site that accepts this guide - Added BG4 Titles, Cars, Driving Guidelines, Translation Guide, The Machine Setup, Internal Upgrades, Hall of Fame, and Drifts - Edited a majority of the text - Fixed some typos - Renamed some sections and subsections ____________ - Tweaked the ASCII Version 0.55 : I didn't play the game for a while. Focus on this FAQ instead. 9 Sept 2005 - Added a partial Translation Guide, Do's and Don't's, the 126 kb Glitched Oval-shaped Ultra-beginner Level Circuit, and Speed Reduction - Changed the contact policy - Edited some text - Fixed a formatting inconsistency in some sub-subsections - Fixed a numbering error in ToC - Fixed some spacing errors - Renamed Section 8 ____________ - Reorganised many subsections Version 0.56 : Sorry, I made a huge mistake with the inaccurate information. 10 Sept 2005 - Edited some text 133 kb - Fixed all the typos ____________ - Fixed the inaccurate nitro tips Version 0.60 : Here comes to 60%. The most frustrating part is always the 13 Sept 2005 translation of "My Garage" and the myths of the best settings. 139 kb - Added some optimum car settings - Added Swappable Engine List, and Changeable Drivetrain List - Added Top-end Racing Museum's site which provides tuning info - Extended the Translation Guide - Edited some text - Fixed some typos - Reorganised all the miscellaneous information ____________ - Swaped Sections 5 and 7 for space to include the cars' settings Version 0.77 : I went through a proof read of this guide today and was really 24 Sept 2005 obsessed with my ever-respawning language mistakes. 154 kb - Added a fruitful description of springs and dampers from SimRacingWorld - Added a fan site - Added the translations suggested by a board user daytona99 - Added some optimum setups for some cars suggested by fellow BG4 players - Added more Q&A's - Edited a majority of the text - Fixed all (hopefully...) typos and grammar mistakes - Resequenced some subsections ____________ - Started a subsection on car setups Version 0.80 : I will keep on writing until this guide comes to a completion. 28 Sept 2005 - Added car reviews 162 kb - Edited some formatting ____________ - Edited some text Version 0.98 : After my pause I can't seem to catch up with my previous times. 26 Oct 2005 I will try to make the guide as informative as possible before 222 kb I recall my BG4 skills later. An early Happy Halloween! - Added the fan site Technique of G - Added the translation pages - Added the reader MazinKaiser1001's RX-7 review (THANKS!) - Added the reader dodgethis's contribution - Added the reader Shiseirou's Impreza review - Added the reader Qoo's contribution - Added the reader K.T.'s Z33 review (THANKS!) - Added the subsections Resembling Cars, and Comparisons with ID3 and WMMT2 - Added more Q&A's - Added more course descriptions and guides - Added my comments to the WR, and the "WR Index" that I invented - Edited a majority of the text - Edited those stuff that I just regurgitated - Elaborated the Cars section - Finished the Tunes, Parts, and Setups Section - Fixed all the spelling errors - Fixed all the grammar mistakes - Fixed the section dividers - Reorganised Sections 3 to 8 - Reorganised all the loose and unclear information - Rewrote the whole Section 2 ____________ - Updated the Hall of Fame Version 1.05 : I have left out the game for more than a month. But when I came 23 Nov 2005 back TA'ing on Monaco the day before, I managed to beat my own 230 kb ghost by 6 whole seconds! - Fixed some grammar mistakes - Fixed some typos (Aye, they're ever spawning!) - Added J1M's explanation of the Onemake TA Mode - Added J1M's discovery of different steering feedback for every car in the same machine - Added Seishirou's elaboration of handbrake drift - Added K.T.'s suggestions of resembling the DC2 and SXE10 in ID - Added K.T.'s BG4 forum which I granted the permission to host this guide - Added All Cars Rankings on all courses ____________ - Split Section 9.1 Version 1.07 : I've decided to quit the game. It's way too costly and I can't 28 Nov 2005 put forth my theory into practice not even those six of my own 233 kb best CP times. I may consider finalising this guide as well... - Edited some text - Added soranGTR's S15 review ____________ - Updated the Hall of Fame Version 1.10 : It's last night that I heard of the new tracks and vinyls Taito 2 Dec 2005 will add in BG4. Right on time; ok, I can't quit but come back. 240 kb - Edited some text - Fixed some grammar mistakes - Added the future new courses and vinyls - Added new ideas in the comparison between BG, ID and WMMT ____________ - Updated the Hall of Fame Version 1.28 : HAPPY CHRISTMAS EVE!! But damn, my IE is bugged and I won't be 24 Dec 2005 able to access the Racegame Forum to get the new info about the 253 kb new courses. Anyway I stopped the game for yet another month and I've got to work on my skills. - Edited a majority of the text - Fixed some typos (Why are they ever respawing?) - Edited the Driving Guidelines section - Added the new shiyou cars - Added the new course descriptions - Added the new BG4 titles given rise by the two new courses - Rewrote the whole section 6.1 ____________ - Updated the Hall of Fame Version 1.32 : M E R R Y C H R I S T M A S !!! Better late than never... 27 Dec 2005 - Edited some text 257 kb - Added MATT's Honda Fit setting ____________ - Added resemblance of Keisuke's Project D new fd Version 1.37 : I'm gonna chill out... BG4's an addiction or fascination? Well, 31 Dec 2005 shit's been happening all over this entire year. I got to pull 262 kb myself out of the gutter. Right now's the end of the damn year 2005. I'm looking forward into 2006; I'm sure I'll be in luck. - Added the Roadster's optimum setting on Chiuukyuu - Added a big secret, although some time ago, revealed by a talented player named BigHD ____________ - Updated the Hall of Fame Version 2.37 : I reinstalled my copy of Windows and got the IE bug fixed. I 31 Jan 2006 took a deep breath, and saw the sun ouside; things gotta 266 kb change. Look a new year has begun. - Added the shortcut system in the Table of Contents - Added different Chapters - Added a Choudokyuu GTR setting - Added daytona99's BG4 leaflet pages - Added the Taiwanese gamers' forum for reference - Added the Choushoukyuu and Choudokyuu rankings - Completed the Tunes, Parts chapter - Completed the visual upgrades section - Edited a majority of the text - Edited the Table of Contents - Fixed all typos (but why are they still there? Arrgghhh!!!) - Fixed some grammar mistakes (Thanks to Odie) - Fixed some typos - Removed the redundant subsections of the vinyled Shiyou cars - Removed the subsection RR drivetrain - Removed the ID and WMMT comparison subsection - Renumbered all the sections - Reorganised the entire walkthrough - Tweaked the formatting - Updated the car rankings ____________ - Updated the Hall of Fame Version 3.00 : It's been so long that I have updated this guide. If it's not 9 Nov 2006 the coming BG4 Tuned version I'd have quit the game forever 278 kb because I have been overwhelmed with emotions... Now that I got a one-year contract signed, and I can chill out and find a life of my own. "Welcome back TownRanger!" I said to myself. - Added preview on the Tuned Version - Added information about the Tuned Version - Added Wikipedia's site which is providing a link to my guide - Added the rally suspension - Added the drift tires - Added the "coming soon" Drift Mode - Added a few Q&A's about BG4T - Added links to daytona99's youtube videos - Edited some text - Fixed the inaccurate information in Sections 3) and 4) - Removed Section 19) Comparisons with ID and WMMT - Tweaked the ASCII arts - Updated the car rankings ____________ - Updated the Hall of Fame Version 3.30 : Not intended as I thought, the game still does not draw much 16 Nov 2006 people in. I need more practise to herald the coming BG4T! 282 kb - Added some video links - Added advanced tips and suggestions - Added Motormagazine's site URL - Completed (really) the pending "Coming soon..." for the internal visual upgrades (I haven't noticed I have left them ____________ out for so long) Version 3.86 : Referring upwards, I nearly have forgotten that I have been 28 Dec 2006 working on this guide for so long more than one year. 317 kb - Added official course data descriptions and elaborations - Added some differences across BG4 and BG4T - Added a detailed Choushoukyuu Reversed guide - Added the "My Garage" PC page - Added email policy - Added machine locations in Malaysia, Singapore, and New Zealand - Added brief information about BG4T and BG4T Pro - Added Bugs and Glitches - Added the Boost Position subsection - Edited the format of Version History - Edited the format of Course Guide - Edited some text - Fixed some formatting errors - Fixed some typos - Organised the info about "wheel feedback for different cars" - Reorganised Section 1 - Removed the redundant importance idea in Section 8) Tuning - Peplaced all the annoying "Coming soon..." announcements! - Tweaked the document heading ASCII arts ____________ - Tweaked the subsection dividers Version 3.90 : H A P P Y N E W Y E A R !!! 3 Jan 2007 The Internet connection in Hong Kong had died for 4 days, as 318 kb the optical fibres were destroyed in an earthquake in Taiwan... - Added DustyEX90's, Skyy S.K.Y.'s and Jhnoy's contribution - Apologies to DustyEX90 - Added new email policy - Added X Zone's website (Thanks to Skyy S.K.Y.) ____________ - Fixed the inaccurate engine information (Thanks to DustyEX90) Version 4.00 : It's been so long that I have updated this guide. And yes, I 19 Jan 2009 have quit visiting arcades. 328 kb - Added Ken's, andrewtch's, and Fox's car reviews - Added Fox's powersliding tips - Added x3ternalx's machine locations in Singpaore ____________ - Added andrewtch's machine locations in Malaysia Finalized Version : It's time to end this, officially. 4 Apr 2017 - Fixed some inaccurate grammar 328 kb - Edited a few things to let you know this is the last bit of it - Removed a few dead links =============================================================================== 1.2 About This Guide ............................. %AbFAQI2 =============================================================================== This document is written with Microsoft (R) Notepad (R) in the font Fixedsys with a font size of 12 points. Each line has a fixed width of 79 characters regardless. This guide can be displayed properly on Notepad (R), IE (R), Netscape (R), Microsoft (R) Word (R), and Mactonish (R) BBEdit Lite (R). If you are opening this file in Microsoft Word, I suggest you may change the font into Courier New and a font size of 9 points so as to preserve the formatting. Some of the illustrations in this guide are based on a comparison with BG4's counterparts in the arcade racing games Initial D (ID), Wangan Midnight Maximum Tune (WMMT), and the PS/PS2 Gran Turismo series (GT). A little experience in those games will help make this guide more comprehensive. This guide can only be found on the following websites: GameFAQs-----------http://www.gamefaqs.com/coinop/arcade/game/926539.html Gamespots----------http://www.gamespot.com/arcade/driving/battlegear4/ Gamestats----------http://www.gamestats.com/objects/765/765683/help.html IGN----------------http://faqs.ign.com/objects/765/765683.html The above guide locations will subject to future changes if some other sites are allowed to host this guide. Do not worry if I have allowed you to use this guide but have not included your URL in the above since it could be quite cumbersome to update this guide with nothing more than one single web address. If you happen to find this FAQ, or part of this FAQ, being displayed on any sites other than those listed above, please do let me know by email or a thread in GameFAQs' Battle Gear 4 board. The newest version of this Battle Gear 4 Guide can always be found on GameFAQs. It is there that I will first send the update to. =============================================================================== 1.3 Battle Gear 4 ................................ %AbBG4I3 =============================================================================== The terminology BG4 henceforth refers to the game Battle Gear 4 released by Taito in June 2005. Up to now (December 2006), the game can mostly be found in arcades in Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, New Zealand, and some parts of Northern Europe. Being the fourth installment of the arcade network racing game Battle Gear which specifies fully customised tuning, drifting, and mountain and circuit racing which of all require high skills, Battle Gear 4 was released on Taito's newly added TypeX+ arcade system. Unlike the TypeX system in which BG4's predecessor BG3 is installed, the TypeX+ system has now been upgraded into a high-end PC-based platform: ___________________________________________________________________________ | | | TypeX+ System Specifications (high-end PC-based) | |___________________________________________________________________________| | | | OS : Windows XP Embedded (customised) | | CPU : Intel Celeron 2.5GHz FSB400 (upgradable to Pentium 4 2.8GHz) | | Chipset : Intel 865G | | Memory : DDR266 DIMM 256MB (supports up to DDR400 2GB) | | Graphics : Radeon X800XT 256MB | | Audio : AC97 onboard 6 channel audio CODEC with SPDI/F output | | Lan : Onboard 10/100 Base-TX | | IDE/SATA : ATA100 2ch/SATA1 2ch | |___________________________________________________________________________| "The hardware is upgradable and changeable per game, from the basic setup to a pretty much state of the art setup. "The 'Plus' version of Type X Hardware has some upgrades to the graphical capabilities, including partical effects and a few other tricks, this is to bring it in line with current PC hardware technology." (Source: System 16) With highly improved graphics in a SVGA resolution of 800*600 and the support of Dolby Digital 5.1 TX surround sound system (TM) which is for Taito's exclusive use only, Battle Gear 4 enhances the gameplay, and features both Japanese and European domestic and racing cars. Pity that normally we cannot own the BG4 arcade machine at home! =============================================================================== 1.4 Battle Gear 4 Tuned Version (Pro) ............. %AbBG4T4 =============================================================================== A new installment of BG4--BG4's sequel known as Battle Gear 4 Tuned, aka BG4T, is released in Japan on 28 November 2006. With any luck, I believe that Hong Kong is the second market which BG4T hits. The official BG4T URL is here: -----------------http://www.battlegear.net/bg4tuned/index.html On 28 November 2006 in Japan, BG4T was released with live connection with the Internet in every single arcade where the game itself can be found. It is believed that Taiwan will both have the game updated to BG4T by January 2007, providing their BG4 machines have Internet connection. The need for me to open this new subsection is revealed. "What is it that is so new in the tuned version?" This is the first question that pops up in my mind. Taito would not let us down; they did a real good job! First off, BG4T and BG4T Pro accounts for two different and new installments of the current game BG4. The main and only thing that makes BG4T Pro superior is the new hardware. BG4T Pro includes, - 5 new courses (More to "loot"), - 23 new cars (That's never too many I guess), - 5 new vinyled and "tuned-beforehand" cars, AND - as for the hardware, new cabs with an H-shaped shifting knob, a clutch, a 1024*768 screen resolution (which is more than that of 800*600 of its predecessor BG4) A newer and more powerful hardware system on which BG4T is installed is given a new name of BG4T Pro. The original BG4 machines can still have the updated version Battle Gear 4 TUned version installed, and thus a new software on an old machine is named BG4T. If time allows, I'll be compiling yet another document about "The Differences between BG4 and BG4T". Stay tuned. One thing for sure, I am now working on a BG4T project since after my submission of the new game BG4T data is accepted by CJayC on GameFAQs, meaning that I will soon compile a separate document accounting for all the exclusive things in BG4T. Once if that is done, I will, however, be still updating this BG4 guide. Done generally with the above, we are now moving into the details about BG4T... #===================# | The 5 New Courses | #===================# What a pity that I missed the location test in Hong Kong some time ago. That is a trial version of BG4T temporarily installed in the local arcades. Now that I can only stay at home, and watch hardcore the google and youtube videos by the BG4 enthusiasts from Hong Kong (among one of whom is daytona99, the moderator of the BG4 Racegame Forum from where I get a bunch of useful information). With a little tryout in these new courses with my very good friend Odie, I would like to point out a few things about the courses. Details are left to be included in my coming documnets. 1) Dokyuu B aka Akagi ---------------------- Carried on from BG3, Akagi is back! That is the very well known plot in Initial D that "hooks" racing gamers' bottoms into the seat to challenge this course. Players of BG3 and Initial D have been complaining about the left out of Akagi in BG4. The course addition in 20 December 2005 does not make it up to players' expectation simply because Akagi is still yet missing. Taito named Akagi "Dokyuu B", and is ready to release it in BG4T. Akagi is always the most fascinating course that strap you in through its high speed hairpins. My only complain is that Taito took away the sakura blossoms in the BG2 old days! 2) Shoukyuu B -------------- I have no idea where this course resembles. Probably this is Taito's original course. I would describe this course as a overly high speed runway judging from the map. The six major turns in this course will not bore you. This is a gravel course. 3) Chiuukyuu B -------------- I guess this is a resemblance of the Fuji Speed Runway. The race is in the evening with lightings of the buildings on. I could see some tight corners in this gravel course. This nightscene is where the plot is set for the new Drift Mode. 4) Joukyuu B ------------ Snow! At last Taito includes a different weather condition in its BG series that actually affects the handling of your ride. If there had not been this only snow course, why would Taito have added the new snow tyres as an option in My Garage? Yes, but finally Taito decided to have the snow tyres automatically installed on your ride once if you pick this Joukyuu B course. That way players who have registered "My Garage" does not have to waste BG points on a snow setting. 5) Choujoukyuu B ---------------- The rally atmosphere makes this course so unique! Taito's inclusion of the new rally suspensions is your friend here for no question. There are also jumps in this muddy course! How can I resist that? Sega Rally? Not anymore! Now we can see an RX-7 running rally! #=============# | 23 new cars | #=============# Carried on from the BG predecessors: ------------------------------------ - HONDA NSX type R (NA6) - HONDA Integra Type R (DC2) - HONDA Civic Type R (EK9) - MAZDA Savanna RX-7 GT-X (FC3S) - MAZDA Eunos Roadster (NA6CE) - MITSUBISHI FTO GP Version R (DE3A) - MITSUBISHI Lancer GSR Evolution IV (CN9A) - MITSUBISHI Lancer GSR Evolution III (CE9A) - NISSAN Skyline GT-R V-Spec (BCNR33) - NISSAN Skyline GT-R (BNR32) - NISSAN Silvia K's (S13) - NISSAN 180SX Type S (RPS13) - SUBARU Impreza WRX Type R STi Version VI (GC8) - TOYOTA Celica GT-Four (ST205) (The 4WD one in rally competitions) - TOYOTA MR2 GT (SW20) - TOYOTA Corolla Levin SR (AE85) New cars exclusive in BG4T: --------------------------- - CITROGEN C4 2.0 VTS - HONDA Civic SiR (EG6) - MAZDA Roadster RS (NCEC) - MITSUBISHI Lancer Evolution IX MR - SUBARU Impreza WRX STi Spec C (GDB) - SUZUKI Swift Sport - VOLKSWAGEN Golf GTI (1KAXX) #==========================================# |5 new vinyled and "tuned-beforehand" cars | #==========================================# If you have any of these cars, you can now have it full tuned for free in BG4T. - MITSUBISHI Lancer Evolution IX Rally Art - NISSAN Skyline GT-R R33 NISMO LM - NISSAN Skyline GT-R R33 NISMO LM - TOYOTA Altezza TRD - NISSAN Fairlady Z ORC ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) References ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No guide is an island. The two following subsections outline some useful websites, and the various contributors for further information, (2.1) Additional Sources - official sites, leaflets, Online discussion forums, and fan sites from where I extract information. (2.2) Contributors - people who sent me emails with constructive inputs. =============================================================================== 2.1 Additional Sources ........................... %RAdSI21 =============================================================================== As referenced in this document, there are some additional sources which provide the necessary information that helps a lot in the writing of this FAQ: #================# | Official sites | #================# . Taito http://www.taito.co.jp/ . Taito BG4 http://www.battlegear.net/index2.html . Taito BG4 Tuned Version http://www.battlegear.net/bg4tuned/index.html . Screenshots of BG4 http://www.battlegear.net/bg4/gallery.html . The BG4 "My Garage" page (in Japanese, requires broswers with UTF-8 support) http://four.battlegear.net/web/mb/ . The BG4T "My Garage" page (in English for PC users) http://four.battlegear.net/web/pc/ index.do;jsessionid=0001C-IqzaXaHNQDsN4Yo2Nyq4P+Sparrow3ID (Single-lined only) . The BG4 AI-tuned page (in Japanese, requires broswers with UTF-8 support) http://www.battlegear.net/bg4/asobi_keyless_set.html . BG4 machine locations (in Japanese, requires broswers with UTF-8 support) http://four.battlegear.net/tenpo_list.html #==========# | Leaflets | #==========# . BG4 Quickguide by Taito BG4 Battle Gear Project Team 2005 (The BG4 promotion leaflets found in arcades. A copy is scanned by onw of my readers daytona99 here) http://www.pbase.com/lamkiuwai/bg4_guide #===================# | Translation pages | #===================# . Sleipnir http://www20.pos.to/~sleipnir/software/sleipnir/index.html (Suggested by daytona99 but there are bugs in the programme) . Excite.com http://www.excite.co.jp/world/english/web/body/?wb_url=http://four.battlegear. net/web/mb/ (Single-lined only) . Edict Project http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~jwb/japanese.html (You can't miss this one!) #========# | Forums | #========# . GameFAQs' Battle Gear 4 message board (but nearly dead...) http://boards.gamefaqs.com/gfaqs/gentopic.php?board=926539 . The Racegame Forum (in Cantonese and Chinese, requires BIG5 browsers) http://forum.racegame.org/thread.php?fid=13 . The Taiwanese gamers' fourm (literally) (in Chinese, requires BIG5 browsers) http://www.player.game.tw/bbs #===============# | BG4 fan sites | #===============# . daytona99's instruction page on the registeratin of "My Garage" http://www.pbase.com/lamkiuwai/bg4_reg . BG4 Quickguide (scanned by daytona99) http://www.pbase.com/lamkiuwai/bg4_guide . Technique of G (in Japanese, requires browsers with UTF-8 support) http://my.reset.jp/~rhythm/projectg/technique.htm . Motormagazine, Japan (previews the Battle Gear 4 Tuned Version) http://www.motormagazinesha.co.jp/medialog/modules/wordpress3/index.php?p=34 #=============# | Video Sites | #=============# . Skyline BNR34 Choudokyuu 3'05" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUpWJ_jnNzo . NSX-R Choudokyuu 3'06" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEGyIsHtj9I&mode=related&search= http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykUHtquWD_k&mode=related&search= . Fanmade BG4 vids on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-tDclNfmtU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a29uiOa-2po (Find out more on Youtube yourself!) #=================# | Other web sites | #=================# . Harald Pietschmann's answers to 4WD related questions http://www.4x4abc.com . SimRacingWorld http://www.simracingworld.com/content/279/ . System 16 http://www.system16.com/taito/others . The Magic Box http://www.the-magicbox.com/0502/game050218b.shtml . Top-end Racing Museum (Literation) (in Chinese BIG5) http://home.kimo.com.tw/jub20011/subjectweb/racing/racing002_15.htm . X Zone's, Singapore, website (Thanks to Skyy S.K.Y.) http://www.zonex.com.sg/ZoneX1_Gamemachines.htm =============================================================================== 2.2 Contributors ................................. %CtbrI22 =============================================================================== . andrewtch - machine locations in Malaysia - NSX corrections on my part of misperception . daytona99 - Permission to include his personal translation page - Permission to include his BG4 leaflet photos - Permission to translate his pinned BG4T thread on Racegame into English . dodgethis - The correct order of the Suspension options in "My Garage" . DustyEX90 - Providing us with engine information (I'm no machanics person, thanks!) . Fox - Tips on powersliding - Toyota Trueno review . J1M - The Onemake TA mode . Jhony - Discovery of the handy shock-absorbing functionality of the Street Suspensions . K.T. - Nissan Fairlady review . Ken - Integra Type R review - RX-8 review - Mitsubishi Colt review - Mitsubishi Evo IX review - Nissan Skyline GTR R34 review - Peugeot 206RC review - Subaru Impreza review - Toyota Trueno review . MazinKaiser1001 - Mazda Rx-7 fd3s review . Odie - Buying a key - Gaining BG points - Tuning up cars - Experiments on boost-on battles - Figuring out what boosts do . Qoo - Question on how to add a sticker . Seishirou - Subaru Impreza review - Clarification of the handbrake drift technique . soranGTR - S15 review . viiictor - Machine location in Belbourne, Australia - "My Garage" bug in excite's online translator . Skyy S.K.Y. - Machine locations in Singapore . smart_kidz - Machine locations in Singapore . x3ternalx - Machine locations in Singapore Want your nick up? Send me your car review, or any constructive ideas. I will always credit you in the next revision if your input is published. As for contacting me, please refer to section 21) Contacts / Submission (code: %CntSubk). ________________ [End of CHAPTER I] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER II: GAME BASICS _______________________________________________________________________________ This chapter deals with the things you should know about the game particularly if you first started the BG series. The cars, courses, and game modes will be discussed. Also, there will be descriptions of the Netkey and the Internet registration of creating an online account aka "My Garage". ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) Getting Started ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In this section, I will first describe the physical features of a BG4 machine. I will then talk about the car, mode, and course selection screens. =============================================================================== 3.1 The Machine Setup ............................ %MStUp31 =============================================================================== The first thing in a BG4 cab that attracts my eyes is the roll cage installed across the top of the seat and the screen. The arcade where I first saw the BG4 cabs is really smart; they put them right next to its predecessor BG3 ones. A contrast in the graphics is made very obvious and I was then hooked into the game. Thanks to Odie who showed me the BG4 cabs or else I would not have been able to see them. Am I just blind? >_< Get in the cab from the right. Seat down and remember the shifting knob and the handbrake are on your left. That does not affect me though; I drive on the right IRL. There is a little knob underneath the front edge of your seat. Pull it up and you can move your seat forwards and backwards. Adjust it so you can seat comfortably with your arms and legs stretched effectively. Try testing whether you can full lock the wheel with your arms and full throttle with your right foot. If you have to move your waist or bottom in either action, that means the steering wheel and the pedals are way too far from you. Pull up the little knob under your seat and forward yourself. The best setting position allows you to full lock the wheel without moving your upper body but your arms only, and to fully step on either pedal without moving your bottom but your foot/feet only. Look at the screen. Beneath it is a dashboard with the steering wheel in the middle. Look between the wheel and you will see a red light that is the upshift indicator. On the right in between the wheel and the dashboard, there is the key ignition in which you will have to plug your Netkey. To your right, there are the coin slot and the yellow-and-red Start button. To the left of the wheel, it is the red-and-white Triangle Hazard button. To your very left, it is the green-and-yellow View Change button. Let us go down a bit. You will see a little red trigger on the left of the machine. Taito calls it the Overtaking Switch which is the trigger for the turbo boost/nitro (It is not a switch! It is a trigger...). Below is the shifter which indicates Up and Down, and the handbrake. Before inserting the coins to start a game, seat down and test everything first. Make sure you can reach all the buttons and knobs with your hands. Also make sure you know what and where they are. Look back at the dashboard. Look up at the upper right to the right of the screen. A Netkey dispenser is up there. The BG4 cab functions as a key vending machine with another coin slot just below the dispenser. There are two coin slots; one on the dashboard right next to the Start button which is used for game credit inputs, and the other up the dashboard below the Netkey dispenser for key credit inputs. Now let us move out from the machine and watch it from behind. You will see the TX Surround box which illuminates red, purple, and white. The red light indicates the player's pressing of the brake, the purple the pulling of the handbrake, and the white the use of nitro. Remember these colours because you will find them handy when you are observing another player playing the game in a way that you can just watch and learn when to brake and when to use nitro. =============================================================================== 3.2 Starting a Game .............................. %StGme32 =============================================================================== Now that we are in a cab! Fight your way through the queue (if there is any). Prepare the coin(s)/token(s) necessary for a credit in a game. Insert it/them into the slot right next to the Start button. When the game detects enough coin(s)/token(s) for a credit, it will prompt you a screen with a large picture in the middle, which illustrates how to plug the Netkey in and how to ignite. Ok, at this very first stage, let us assume you do not have a key yet. Press the Start button to start a game. Next, you will see a counting screen from 15 to 0. It is the wait time for other players to join in and challenge you, same as that in Daytona USA. If you do not want challengers, press the Triangle Hazard button. A quick and effective way to refuse challengers is to hold the Triangle button just after you are done with a credit. Hold the Triangle button to press start to avoid challengers. I always hold the Triangle button to ignite; that way, granted, no one can "play" with me. It is not binding but if you decide to accept challengers, prepare to get fished or annoyed by complete n00bs. That happens. If you have a key already and have registered an online garage (you will know how later in this section), you can plug in the Netkey and turn the ignition to continue with your car. You will see your beloved car appearing in the screen under your keyname! In either case, you will be brought to the A) Tuning selection screen if you are using a key, OR B) Car selection screen if you are not using a key followed by yet another tuning selection screen. We are now done with the whole progress in general. But before we move further into some real actions in our ride, I would like to point out some more baseline information in advance. Press the throttle or press start to continue with the mode selection... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) Game Modes, Course, Car, and Tune Selections ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There are the four different game modes in BG4: Race Mode, TA Mode, Battle Mode, and Multiple-player Race Mode. In BG4T there are one more different game mode but I am not including it here. I am saving it for my upcoming documents. =============================================================================== 4.1 Race Mode .................................... %RacMd41 =============================================================================== We are in luck; Taito included the exact English words here. Deciding on the Race Mode, you can choose to compete against the AI or some human opponents. If you choose to race against the AI, you can use your steering wheel to choose a course. You will know it because of the maps being displayed. The default difficulty level is Lv.1, the easiest. Press the Triangle button to increase it one level by one. The highest is Lv.14. The higher the AI level you win in a single race, the more BG points you will get. BG points are the currency in BG4 that allows you to install upgrades on your car to increase its performance. We will be talking about BG points in later sections in this guide. So if you are decent enough, beat some high level AI a few times to earn BG points faster and full tune your car eariler. That is easier said than done though. In a race where there's full of AI/human cars, there are many factors which affect the performance of the drivers. Say for example, if a car has a better launch at the starting grid, it will take the lead and has an advantage to occupy a better line in the entire course such as hugging the apex or blocking its rivals that are rushing from behind and are about to overtake. The inevitable ramming may also make a difference that usually does not happen if all cars are running on the same track all alone. Speed gain/loss during ramming becomes an unpredictable factor in all races. =============================================================================== 4.2 TA Mode ...................................... %TA.Md42 =============================================================================== Here this is your choice of getting yourself familiar with a course or racing against yourself. You can have a ghost car of your own, the best TA record holder's of that course, or no ghost. The least stressful way is to do the TA mode without a ghost car. Another advantage about the TA mode is that you will not get frustrated by the blocking and ramming of the other cars. The ghost is physically not there; it is only a visible image for imitation. To set a ghost, you can steer to make your choice. Taito includes English words in the ghost selection screen. You cannot miss them. You can choose your own ghost, no ghost, the number one world record's ghost, or the Onemake Pace that gives you the ghost of the fastest driver on the same car make as yours, except that the tuning and body kit in those cars can be different from yours. There is a time limit in the TA mode. If you suck that much you will not be able to make your way to the finish line before the timer resets zero. But that way you will still gain some BG points. The BG points you gain in the TA mode are the same as in you win a race against Lv.1 or 2 AI rivals. This is not the case in ID that the TA points gained are far less than that in the LoTS mode. If you force quit in the TA mode by plugging out the key, you will gain 1000 BG. =============================================================================== 4.3 Battle Mode .................................. %BtlMd43 =============================================================================== As for battling against a human player, the points you get count on the class of your and your opponent's (opponents') car(s). The Battle Mode option is written in English in the screen which is the option on the right hand side. It is in English; you cannot miss it. I once accidentally challenged another human player and that was not my fault, not my pathetic showing-off of my fishing experience (No, it's an accident! I swear by the name of TownRanger). I inserted the coins and I was about to press the Triangle Hazard button (This is my habit of holding that button to prevent fishers, or bad guys who will give you enormous hassles after they lost in a battle against you). The button was broken. Nothing happened. I then sensed someone else in another cab was looking at me. Yes, he inserted the coins just 0.000001 second earlier than I did. I was in that case considered to be challenging him. Since that guy did not press the Triangle button at the time I was inserting the coins, the game registered him to be accepting challengers; whilst I was done with one credit and the game registered me as wanting to challenge him. There is no way to think of abandonment issues; the Triangle button is not broken but the game disables it once someone else accepts challengers. I guess I can call this a bug. (Notice: this bug has been fixed in the debugged version of BG4T and BG4TPro) So if the other guy looks more like a foul creature, or if a person sort of rushes to the machine after s/he sees you, be very careful and make your quick decision of whether or not to battle him/her. Press the Triangle button if you do not welcome challengers. I always HOLD it when I turn the key to ignite. When you choose the Battle Mode with up to a maximum of three human players, the default will leave boost on. With boost on, the car taking the lead will suffer from a handling penality in that the car outhandles and prones to traction loss easier than as usual; and the car(s) behind will receive a slight speed boost and grip the ground better than it normally does (Thanks to Odie for his observation about this. I was battling him one-to-one that day but I noticed nothing). To turn the default boost off, ALL players should highlight the Battle Mode and ALL players have to HOLD the View Change button and then press the gas to confirm. That is the mode selection screen which prompts you with the options Race Mode (on the left) and the Battle Mode (on the right). The screen will then prompt an orange box in the screen. The orange box will have yellow texts in it saying something like "Hande Nashi Shiken Joubu", meaning "No Handicap; True Skills Determining Win/Lost". And all players should be STILL HOLDING the Veiw Change button BEFORE stepping the gas pedal to confirm. That is why I mentioned that all players should have come to an agreement of boost off before hand. My suggestion is do not be afraid to ask the other player(s) for a challenge (if you want so), and also ask if they want boost off. It would be nice to tell them in advance that the game will have boost on as default. Yes, you may be seen as a freak that way but it is good to have clarified the boost issue in the first place so as to prevent conflicts of fishing or getting fished. =============================================================================== 4.4 Multi-player Race Mode ....................... %MpRMd44 =============================================================================== This is both a "fun-added" and a "value-added" mode. Two or up to a maximum of four players are working together to defeat the AI's, and defeating one another as well. What is so fun in this mode is that all the players, including the AI's, involved will be struggling for the first place in this race. Each party involved must win against both the other human and AI opponents. Like in the single player Race Mode, you can use the Triangle button to select an AI level. The multi-player race mode has no boosts. All the cars handle "normally". Because of the presence of the computer opponents, Taito just cannot add a boost in this mode to the player's advantage because if they did so, then their specially programmed supercars can be defeated easily with boosts in the human player's car. If you win in the first place, your rewards will be the same as that you will get in the aforementioned single player Race Mode. But hey! What about your partner? =============================================================================== 4.5 Choosing a Course ............................ %ChCrs45 =============================================================================== Now that we are about to move on to a course... There are altogether 7 courses in BG4 (4 more in BG4T but will not be mentioned here). The maps of the courses are provided at the lower-middle part of the screen. In the top-right corner, there is a little statistics about the weather and length of each course which may prove to be use... less! Use your friend the steering wheel to cycle through the seven maps. You will notice that at the very bottom, there is a tiny little white box with a fraction of number inside, 1/7, 2/7, 3/7, ..., 7/7, which is actually the difficulty scale of a course. 1/7 is the easiest; whilst 7/7 is the hardest. The names of the courses are written in Japanese. Do not worry; we will discuss them right now. They are not the real names of these real life courses being resembled but a description of the difficulty of a course. Ranged from the easiest to the hardest, the five courses are: No. Jap Name What it means Resemblance 1/7 Choushoukyuu - Ultra Beginner (I have no idea. Email me if you have.) 2/7 Shoukyuu - Beginner (Resemblance of Mt. Myogi) 3/7 Chiuukyuu - Intermediate (I have no idea. Email me if you have.) 4/7 Joukyuu - Advanced (Resemblance of Monaco, Monte Carlo) 5/7 Choujoukyuu - Upper Advanced (Resemblance of Mt. Shin Myogi) 6/7 Dokyuu - Dreadnought (Resemblance of Mt. Haruna, aka Akina) 7/7 Choudokyuu - Ultra Dreadnought (I have no idea. Email me if you have.) (1/7 is the easiest, whilst 5/7 is the hardest) Details of each of the courses will be provided not now but later. Those details are wordy and are inappropriate to be put here at this beginning stage. Press the gas to decide on a course. And then there will be two arrow-like text boxes flying into the screen: one on the left and the other the right. They are, again, written in Japanese Kanji (Chinese characters). The textbox on the left reads "Normal Direction", and the right "Reversed Direction". Use the gas to pick one. When you highlight one of them, the map will have an animated arrow thing showing you the route! =============================================================================== 4.6 Choosing your Car ............................ %ChCar46 =============================================================================== As for the car selection, steer left or right to cycle through altogether the 12 car makes in the game. If you highlight one particular car make, you can see what models the game has under that car make. Read the screen until you come across with the car model you want. To get to a car model, say for example, Rx-7, first of all find out its car make. In that case, you will have to steer to find out the car make Mazda. Highlight it, and press the gas or the Start button. You will then enter Mazda's model selection. One of the options is the Rx-7 in this example. If you change your mind, you can press the brake to leave the car make, and will be brought back to choosing the car makes. Notice that the car make Citrogen have only got one model. Let us take the Mazda Rx-7 again as an example. Enter the Mazda screen, and use the steering wheel to cycle through the car models available. Highlight the Rx-7. Press the View Change button to toggle through a set of different colours which make the car looks different. Press the gas to confirm if you are done. On a side note, colours other than the ones you see on the screen are also available if you have a Netkey to spend BG points to buy a unique colour. There is a "class meter" in the top-left corner of the screen. It indicates what class the car model belongs to. There are four classes ranging from best to worst: Class S --> Class A --> Class B --> Class C --> Class D The default (untuned) cars only have up to a maximum of Class A. When tuned, every car can reach Class S. However, the "nature" of the cars remains intact. That is to say, if a Class D car is tuned, it will get the Class S title, but it is still weaker than another tuned Class A car (although they both have the Class S title after at least some tuning process). The Class S only tells that a particular car is tuned but not necessarily the best on top of a Class A car. Due to a bad programming (I guess I won't call that a bug or glitch), some tuned cars could be overpowered and rub off on cars of the same class with the same tuning. One of a pro-player who goes by the name Daytona99 comments that a tuned Peugeot 206 (Class C) can easily stand a chance against any tuned Class B cars. Confirmed with the car model, you will see the AT/MT selection screen pops up. AT is automatic transmission (the AI changes gears for you) whilst MT is manual transmission (you have to shift yourself). MT is recommended because you can have a better control over your car but if you are rather new to racing games, you may have to choose AT in order not to be confused with gear changing. Shifting could be a confusion for newcomers. If you do not understand what I mean by changing gears or shifting, I highly recommend you to choose AT, and you will thank me later. After choosing your car and the gear changing, now we are about to enter the tune selection screen... =============================================================================== 4.7 Choosing a Tune .............................. %ChTun47 =============================================================================== The course and car are done. The game is designed for you to pick the right tune to fit the course you are encountering now. If you are not using a key, you will now be given an option to the tunes of that car model you picked. Here are the three tunes available for selection: (Details of the below tunes will be explained in the section "Advanced tips and suggestions") 1) Normal - Stock car (The whole ride remains intact) - Normal speed - No nitros or speed boosts 2) Street, - Tuned with Street bodykits and Street suspensions - Mild-high speed - No nitros or speed boosts 3) Sports, AND - Tuned with Street bodykits and Street suspensions - High speed - No nitros or speed boosts 4) Racing - Tuned with Racing bodykits and Racing suspensions - Very high speed - With nitros (in NA engines) or speed boosts (in turbo engines) If you have a Netkey and have tunings of your own, the game will load from the Internet the names and settings of your tune(s). You are advised to remember how you have tweaked your car in which tune so you can choose your most appropriate one. Use the steering wheel to cycle through these tunes, and then if you are ready, hit the gas to confirm. Ah, finally, the loading screen! We are about to be in the car for some real actions! Keep your attention up! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) Awards ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- One more very final thing before the real business... Like in ID3 and WMMT2, you will not get nothing after feeding the cab with coins and finishing a run or else the fascinating game save system needs not to be there. You will always get a nice little something as a reward. In BG4, you will get... =============================================================================== 5.1 BG Points .................................... %BGPts51 =============================================================================== Here is Odie's description of the BG points:-- "When you race, do Time Attack or play against the AI, you earn something called BG points (a form of money used to buy parts for upgrading). Roughly per game you get around 70000-90000BG depending on circumstances." To my findings, the BG points you get are as followed:-- . 1000 if you force quit by turning the key back to its initial position, or by plugging the key out of the ignition (key reader), . 60000 if time is up in the TA mode, . 70000 if you finish the TA mode without a ghost, . 80000 if you finish the course slower than the TA ghost car does (that could be your ghost or anyone else's ghost), . 90000 if you finish the course faster than the TA ghost car does, . 85000 if you get the first place against level 1 computer opponents. (increases by 5000 with each level; up to 150000 in level 14) As aforementioned, you will need the points to tune up your car. The more points you get, the more tunes and parts you can purchase. Details of the tunes and parts will be included in the section Tunes, Parts, and Setups. =============================================================================== 5.2 Drift Points ................................. %DrtPt52 =============================================================================== After each run, the game will sum up the extent and the number of drifts you have done and then give you a total score of it by the name of Drift Points (Dorifuto Pointo) which is highlighted in yellow in the right bottom of the screen. It will NOT be recorded in "My Garage" though, and I doubt whether any one has ever noticed it. The reason the Drift Points has to be there is for reference only. I see it as the Style Points you get in the PC game Need for Speed Underground. It seems to be pointless to discuss whether the more Drift Points the better or the worse. That is more like a personal driving style to be reflected by that score. The way you tend to be fast and drift into a corner will make you exit the corner slower; and if you drift less, you can pull out with a better exiting speed. Either way will compensate the total time you clear a sharp corner regardless. "Slow in fast out" is the key to dominating in ID and is also applicable in BG4 here since your car loves to drift, i.e., usually you cannot grip all the way unless you break to 10km/h. I will discuss this later in the section Driving Guidelines. On a sidenote as a preview, the coming BG4 Tuned version in Dec 2006 will have got the most out of this Drift Points thing. There will be another special game mode that counts not on your time but your Drift Points. The more you drift, the better you will score in this Drift Mode. Prepare for some more BG points, you will need them to purchase the drift tyres to challenge your Drift Points. In BG4T, the addition of the Drift Mode utilises the full use of these Drift Points and so the BG4 drift point idea is more like a concept in BG4. =============================================================================== 5.3 Skill Points ................................. %SklPt73 =============================================================================== You can earn skill points if you win against the AI. Your skill points are independent on the level of the AI. That is to say, you earn one skill point after getting the first place in each race regardless of the level of the AI. The accumulation of skill points grants you different titles. Yes, this title idea is same as that in WMMT2. The higher level you have stood a chance against, the better title you will get. This will be explained in the following subsection. I have heard from a pissed off user on the Racegame Forum that, however, if you skip a/some level(s) of AI in the Race Mode and have won the first place, later when you get back to the lower level(s) and manage to get in first, the game does not reward your win with a skill point. This is another bug that I refer to. Let me give a brief example, if you have not played Levels 1 and 2 but you skip right away into battling against the Level 3 AI's, and if you win, of course you will get one skill point. But if you come back to do Level 1 and 2, and you win, you will get nothing! That is probably because the game confuses your levels. That you have won a certain level means you must have won the lower one(s) in advance. The game presumes that you are doing the levels in order. I think I can call this a bug. Imagine an experienced player beat all level 15 AI's on all the courses in both the normal and reversed directions WITHOUT DOING THE LOWER LEVELS IN ADVANCE, s/he will get only 14 skill points out of the seven courses! S/he will get stuck with it forever! =============================================================================== 5.4 BG4 Titles ................................... %BGTtl74 =============================================================================== After you get the champion out of a race of 4 against another three AI opponents, you will gain skill points and eventually your title will be updated. The logic is a bit similar as that in WMMT2 except that you do not have to take your card out to update it because it is done miles away in Taito's server in Japan. Frnakly speaking, my Japanese is not fluent enough to accurately interpret all these titles without translation loss. So if you have alternative ideas, please drop me a line. I always appreciate it and will credit you in the next revision. Some names make no sense to me. I will indicate them with a question mark (?) at the end. The arterisk (*) refers to the colour of your car. If you manage to do a paintjob for your car in My Garage, your title also alters accordingly! For the sake of ease for reading, I will divide every ten of the titles as a group. Here we are... TABLE 1: BG4 Titles /----------,----------------------,-----------------------------------\ | LV | Name (Literation) | Name (Meaning) | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 0 | Wakaba Maaku | Young leaf mark (?) | | 1 | ShouShinsha | Beginner | | 2 | Shinjin | New figure | | 3 | Kakedashi | Outrunner | | 4 | Genten | Starting point | | 5 | Hanninmae | Half presence (?) | | 6 | Junia | Junior | | 7 | Soyokaze | Light Breeze | | 8 | Ashigaru | Footman | | 9 | Sanryuu | Nine third-rate (?) | | 10 | Shokyuu | Beginner's class | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 11 | Kyuukyuu | The 9th class | | 12 | Hachikyuu | The 8th class | | 13 | Nanakyuu | The 7th class | | 14 | Rokukyuu | The 6th class | | 15 | Gokyuu | The 5th class | | 16 | Yonkyuu | The 4th class | | 17 | Sankyuu | The 3rd class | | 18 | Nikyuu | The 2nd class | | 19 | Ichikyuu | The 1st class | | 20 | Nobiisu | Novice | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 21 | Wakashishi | Young lion | | 22 | Wakamusha | Young warrior | | 23 | Yasei ji | Wild boy | | 24 | Niryuu | Second-class | | 25 | Ichininmae | Ahead of 1 person | | 26 | Buraiha | Roguish sect | | 27 | Samurai | Samurai | | 28 | Genteikaijo | Limitless | | 29 | Dasshu | Dash | | 30 | Shodan | First grade | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 31 | Shoudan | Joining steps | | 32 | Sandan | 3 steps | | 33 | Yondan | 4 steps | | 34 | Godan | 5 steps | | 35 | Rokudan | 6 steps | | 36 | Nanadan | 7 steps | | 37 | Hachidan | 8 steps | | 38 | Kyuudan | 9 steps | | 39 | Jitsudan | Picked up steps | | 40, 41 | (*) no Ichiryuu | The (*) 1st Class | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 42, 43 | (*) no Rentatsusha | The (*) practice runner | | 44, 45 | (*) no gikou | The (*) technique sect | | 46, 47 | (*) no Jukurensha | The (*) expert | | 48, 49 | (*) no seimitsukikai | The (*) precision machine | | 50, 51 | (*) no kenkyaku | The (*) good walker | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 52, 53 | (*) no shunsoku | The (*) swift runner | | 54, 55 | (*) no shougeki | The (*) impact | | 56, 57 | (*) no yajuu | The (*) brute | | 58, 59 | (*) no moujuu | The (*) fierce beast | | 60, 61 | (*) no tokkouyarou | The (*) suicidal-attack fellow (?)| |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 62, 63 | (*) no daten | Ten of (*) (?) | | 64, 65 | (*) no gekiryuu | The (*) swift current | | 66, 67 | (*) no toppuu | The (*) gust | | 68, 69 | (*) no neppuu | The (*) scorching wind | | 70, 71 | (*) no senpuu | The (*) cyclone | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 72, 73 | (*) no reppuu | The (*) ambush wind | | 74, 75 | (*) no shippuu | The (*) gale | | 76, 77 | (*) no boufuu | The (*) storm | | 78, 79 | (*) no taifuu | The (*) typhoon | | 80, 81 | (*) no faiitaa | The (*) fighter | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 82, 83 | (*) no puraido | Pride of (*) | | 84, 85 | (*) no fooku | Fork of (*) (?) | | 86, 87 | (*) no mahha | Mach of (*) | | 88, 89 | (*) no jetto | Jet of (*) | | 90, 91 | (*) no kakudantou | Nuclear warhead of (*) | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 92, 93 | (*) no roketto | The (*) rocket | | 94, 95 | (*) no eesu | The (*) ace | | 96, 97 | (*) no chanpu | The (*) champion | | 98, 99 | (*) no Kingu | The (*) king | | 100, 101 | (*) no chouichiryuu | The (*) five-handed star | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 102, 103 | (*) no chousoku | The (*) super-velocity | | 104, 105 | (*) no kyousoku | The (*) ultra-velocity | | 106, 107 | (*) no soku | The (*) speed | | 108, 109 | (*) no onsoku | The (*) sonic speed | | 110, 111 | (*) no kousoku | The (*) light speed | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 112, 113 | (*) i dangan | The (*) bullet | | 114, 115 | (*) i zenkaiyarou | The (*) open Zen fellow | | 116, 117 | (*) i ryuusei | The (*) meteor | | 118, 119 | (*) i inaduma | The (*) lightning | | 120, 121 | (*) i hinotama | The (*) fire gem | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 122, 123 | (*) i rekka | The (*) burning flame | | 124, 125 | (*) i susei | The (*) comet | | 126, 127 | (*) i senkou | The (*) flashing light | | 128, 129 | (*) i ishakisho | The (*) chariot lieutenant | | 130, 131 | (*) i yuusho | The (*) courageous lieutenant | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 132, 133 | (*) i tousho | The (*) combat lieutenant | | 134, 135 | (*) i mousho | The (*) challenging lieutenant | | 136, 137 | (*) i tetsujin | The (*) ironman | | 138, 139 | (*) i kenja | The (*) sage | | 140, 141 | (*) i tatsujin | The (*) acquirer | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 142, 143 | (*) i kaiden | The (*) heritageous | | 144, 145 | (*) i meijin | The (*) celebrity | | 146, 147 | (*) i choujin | The (*) superhuman | | 148, 149 | (*) i sennin | The (*) hermit | | 150, 151 | (*) i musou | The (*) invincibility | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 152, 153 | (*) i bushin | The (*) wargod | | 154, 155 | (*) i mugen | The (*) fantasy | | 156, 157 | (*) i oni | The (*) ghost | | 158, 159 | (*) i saikyou | The (*) strongest | | 160, 161 | (*) i eiyuu | The (*) hero | |----------+----------------------+-----------------------------------| | 162, 163 | (*) i oou | The (*) dominator | | 164, 165 | (*) i teiou | The (*) emperor | | 166, 167 | (*) i raijin | The (*) thundergod | | 168, 169 | (*) i fuujin | The (*) windgod | | 170, 171 | (*) i majin | The (*) devilgod | \----------'----------------------'-----------------------------------/ (Source: The Racegame Forum) (English translation by me) Unfortunately, Taito edited all these titles in the sequel BG4T. The ones above achieved will all be erased once if you plug your Netkey into a BG4T cab. Later I will have the new BG4T titles ready, and will post them into another BG4T guide. _________________ [End of CHAPTER II] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER III: THE INTERNET MY GARAGE ONLINE _______________________________________________________________________________ This chapter deals with the basic steps about registering an online garage. This chapter is broken down into the two sections 6) the Netkey, and My Garage Registration, and 7) My Garage. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) The Netkey, and My Garage Registration ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This setion introduces the Netkey and the starting process of an online garage registration. Note that the tuning of cars in BG4 are all done and can only be done via the Internet. That is to say, you must have a computer with Internet connection. A broadband connection is optional but at least a 56K connection should be workable and stable. A 56K connection is more likely to fail at all time; this may cause problems to your car stored in Taito's database. And the car data is stored in Taito's BG4 server but not inside the key in your hand. A stable Internet connection is a must. As quoted from a gentleman who goes by the alias of Odie on GameFAQs' Battle Gear 4 Message Board:-- "Unlike games like Initial D, getting points racked up does not mean your car is performing a tuning process, in fact it does nothing on the machine. Everything is done via the internet." If you do not have access to a computer or the Internet, you may try to find an Internet cafe, or do it in your school or workplace (make sure your school/boss let you access Taito's website which is normally classified as a game site). If that is still not possible, you will end up with a stock car. That way you are not recommended to purchase a Netkey. This will be discussed in the sub- section right below. As Odie told me, some arcades in the UK will have the BG cabs disconnected from the Internet. If that is the case, the points and titles you gained after a game cannot reach Taito's server and you will then get stuck with a stock car. There is nothing we can do but ask the arcade attendants whether they have BG4 ONLINE before deciding to buy a key for the game. If they do not, it is pointless to buy a key because you cannot customise your car by any chance. Odie continued to inform me (thanks, doggie! Ehh... I mean Odie) that if a cab does not have internet connection, a cover which covers the key ignition will be closed. This prevents non-internet cabs from being plugged in with a Netkey. =============================================================================== 6.1 Which Car is the Best? ....................... %Best?61 =============================================================================== To start off, the very first question that may pop up in one's mind is arguably "Which car is the best among all the 30 cars Taito featured in BG4?" Questions like "Which car's the best" or "Which one should I get among car X and car Y" are therefore commonplace in beginners' minds. Your choice here depends. You can just pick up a car that you fancy, or you can make careful considerations--handling, appearance, class, make, and whatever. It is self-explanatory in that the Class A cars have the most powerful stock engine and output. Along with the tier upgrades of altogether four engine levels, the Class A cars will always remain a dominating role. Take a look at the number 1 world records, and you will realise that it is the R34, RX-7, and NSX, being the Class A cars, that sit at the top. They are the cars that every one ranging from beginners to pros can count on. Any cars other than the Class A ones are your choice of practicing your driving skills in that if you manage to manuevour them well and then have a chance to switch to a more decent car later, you will pull out a lot better and can get the most out of the Class A power. Another reason I can think of is what I call an RPG choice; you may simply pick the car you have or you fancy in real life if it is also in the game. Apparently, there is a (mis)conception about the physically large cars being "sluggish" and reluctant to turn aka understeer. BG4 is a highly simulated racing game, and there are no straightforward answers to questions that general. The turning ability of a car is determined by many other factors like how the car is tuned, the drivetrain of a car, the way the game programmes a car, and most compellingly the driver's skill. Remember, however, practice makes perfect. The popularity of the physically smaller cars seems to be making an idea stand out--the smaller a car is, the less likely for its back to have wall contact when exiting a sharp corner, and hence they are versatile. Having said these, you may go for any of these small cars; Toyota Vitz, Mini Cooper, Nissan March, and Renault Lutecia aka Clio. What causes you to lose speed, in fact, is burnout and unnecessary fishtailing. The likelihood of traction loss, however, is more or less the same in all cars regardless. We all subsconsciously believe, and I must frankly admit, that settings DO help but is NOT the only factor. What is most important is the driver's skill. =============================================================================== 6.2 Purchasing the Netkey ........................ %PurKey2 =============================================================================== The possibility of BG4 remaining a competitive edge against ID and WMMT is probably its game save function with its Netkey in that you can store your car, your battle and TA records on the Internet which they update themselves automatically and allow you to tune up your car at home via the internet. - DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY TO BUY A KEY IF YOU HAVE NO INTERNET! - DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY TO BUY A KEY IF YOUR ARCADE HAS NO INTERNET! To trigger the Internet auto-save function, it requires a specific key produced by Taito and Netsys, which they call Netkey. A screenshot of the Netkey is provided by the URL's below:-- -------------http://www.system16.com/taito/others/bg4_key.jpg -------------http://www.system16.com/taito/others/bg4_keybox.jpg The Netkey has a black, yellow, or red plastic holder and a silver shaft. On one side of the shaft, it prints Battle Gear in red; and on another, it marks your key's unique key number. There are four different shapes of the holders but they all function the same of course. The holder in fact does nothing; it does not have a chip, module, or any magnetic strips installed in it. It is only plastic. It does not store data whilst Taito's server does. What the Netkey does is add its unique key number on the shaft into the database of Taito's BG4 server. With the player's input of the key number, car name, make, and model into the server, the database recognises all these data, and hence it is able to update your records. As quoted from Odie:-- "OK apparently you must have a key and an arcade with BG4 connected online (Live) to the Japanese server in order to register online for your garage. Buy a Key and then insert coin(s)... stick in the key and turn on the ignition... you will be asked to choose car, model and your name." When you first start the game, the screen will prompt you whether or not you have a key. If not, press the Start button and you will be given a chance to test driving any car. If yes, insert the Netkey into the keyreader and ignite the car. You will hear an engine roaring sound regardless and the game starts to load your car. It is intended that when you are about to buy a key from the BG4 cab, you have to put a different kind of coins/tokens with a higher value into the slot on top of the dashboard right underneath the sample Netkey dispenser. The BG4 cabs function as a key vending machine. The reason Taito installed another slot on the BG4 cabs is that a key costs much more than each game play does in a way that coins/tokens with a higher value, and thus a different size, are needed for the purchase of a key. If the same coin/token slot is used both for a game and a key, it would be cumbersome to put in so many coins/tokens at a time to buy a key. Odie points out that if a BG4 arcade machine is not connected online, the screen will display words like "Internet connection not available. Do not use a key". That means you should not buy a key either. =============================================================================== 6.3 Online Registration of My Garage ............. %ORgMY63 =============================================================================== You have to register in the following URL:-- ------------http://four.battlegear.net/web/mb/ Again, if you have no Internet connection, you cannot upgrade your car via the Net. Or if your arcade does not connect the BG4 machines to the Internet, you will get no BG points (the in-game currency) after each play. Before proceeding to the online registration, it is essential to make sure that your Internet browser supports the Japanese language because Taito up to now has only built a Japanese registration page. It is recommended that you may use the platform Windows XP (R) with IE (R) 5.0 (or above) built-in that is granted to support all languages. If the Japanese Katakanas are displayed properly, you can have access to the option "Maigaraaji" which is a phonetic borrowing of "My Garage". Odie writes, "What you have to do here is to find My Garage and then create a login account, it will ask you to input your Key ID (located on the key shaft), Car name, Make and Model." Many thanks to daytona99 who grants me the permission to provide a link to his personal "My Garage" translation page here: ------------http://www.pbase.com/lamkiuwai/bg4_reg The above URL by daytona99 provides highly organised step-by-step instructions and is written in English! daytona99 also recommends a piece of software that can do the job. It is available for a download here: ------------http://www20.pos.to/~sleipnir/software/sleipnir/index.html Unfortunately there has been users of the software reporting an error message when they come across sending the information back to Taito's server. The most feasible solution is to put the URL this way: ------------http://www.excite.co.jp/world/english/web/body/?wb_url=http://four. battlegear.net/web/mb/ (Single-lined only) That ends up with a very intelligent translation done via Excite. So far it is the most trustworthy method until after Taito releases an official English page if they will. Some Key ID characters on the key shaft can look similar as in "Z" (zet) and "2" (two), and "I" (eye) and "1" (one). Make sure you do not mix them up. When creating a login account, you will be invited to input a Login name of 6 to 8 characters for your identification. Your Login name should contain BOTH letters and numbers. This Login name is NOT the same as your screen name--the name you entered in the in-game input screen. The Login name is required for BG4's database to indentify you online when you access My Garage. That is not to be confused with your screen name which is the name that shows up in the BG4 machine's screen after the key reader recognises your key. Below the textbox for your input of a Login name, there is another textbox for you to enter your password. Memorise your password by heart because if you lose it, the chance that you can retrieve it is less than 1%. This will be explained later. To sum up in brief, the Login name is used at home on the Internet for the server to identify you, whilst the screen name is displayed on the BG4 cabs in an arcade for other human players to identify you. The Car name, Make and Model are already automatically detected in the first time you undergo the registration process because the data of the car you have just chosen has been sent to Taito's server. But the registration page will still prompt you to enter your car data and your input data must match with the one which Taito stored in their server. This is to re-confirm the player's car and to prevent errors made by either the server or the player. After that you will also have to input a supposedly real name of yours. That must be typed in no more than 10 Sengei (Complete) characters with each of them having a width double of an English letter. You need a Chinese or Japanese characters input system here. If you cannot decipher what I mean, sorry I cannot help you with this technical matter. If your computer does not support Sengei inputs, you may go on the Internet, and copy and paste some words on a Japanese or Chinese webpage. That is the only solution I can think of. You are then asked to input a password that you can memorise well. If you forget it, Taito will NOT help you if you live outside Japan. Remember it well. =============================================================================== 6.4 Login/Logout ................................. %LgIOt64 =============================================================================== Odie continues to write, "Thats it! Once you have done that, login with said l/p and start changing your car. You can change car colour, add stickers, perform GT4 style bodykit/external/internal upgrades using BG currency etc..." The Login URL is: http://four.battlegear.net/web/mb/li1.do;jsessionid=0001GyKhKsOxweMYJxHhHQCNIz2 +Sparrow3ID (single-lined only) Use your Login name to log in the "Maigaaraji" (My Garage) page. That is not your Key name, nor your supposedly real name. Needless to mention you will be asked the password. It is important to note that the login names are case-sensitive. Capital and small letters make different stories. It can be both lucky and unlucky that Taito does not require your email address to register a BG4 online garage. Do not worry if you do not have access to an ISP mailbox but the downside is Taito will not inform you with your lost login name and password via email. Remember to always logout after each session even if you are using your own computer at home. Your BG4 login name and password are way too important; once you lost it, there will be a 99% of chance that you cannot retrieve them. You do not want to encounter any "accidents" that may make you lose your login name or password, like your computer being hacked, or someone else who shares the same computer with you may (un)intentionally alter the password in some way. To log out, keep clicking on the bottom-left of the page which says "Modoru" (Back) in Kanji until after you are back to the "Meinmenyu" (Main Menu) page. Choose "Roguauto" (Logout) in Katakana. =============================================================================== 6.5 Retrieving Login Name/Password ............... %Rtrvl65 =============================================================================== Unfortunately, Taito will NOT send you your lost or forgotten login name, and/ or password via email under all circumstances as what they have clarified in their official BG4 site. Instead they have given us the customers' service hotline which we can seek help from, hopefully. Call and explain your situation to them if and only if you can speak fluent Japanese or if they can speak English (I don't think so). If you are outside Japan, the hotline seems to be of very limited help. So keep your login name and password safe. DO NOT LOSE THEM. Sorry for being wordy; maybe this is a symptom of OCD (Obssessive Complusive Disorder) but you just cannot lose your Login name and/or password. Do not lose them. In case you lost it, be prepared to buy another key and re-start tuning all over again. There is nothing you can do about it if you are outside Japan. So do not lose them. DO NOT LOSE THEM! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) My Garage ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here in this section, we will take a deeper look at the My Garage thing... =============================================================================== 7.1 Do's and Don't's ............................. %DsDnts7 =============================================================================== Before we move on to look deeply into the game BG4, there are something you should bear in mind in the first place. + Ask the staff in your arcade whether or not they have online BG4 connection. + Be prepared to pay a relatively high price for the Netkey and each gameplay. + Forget all about your skills in Daytona USA, ID3, and WMMT2. The skills are not transferrable. They are very different. - Buy a Netkey if your arcade does not have BG4 connected online (live). - Lose or forget your login name or / and password. - Use a BG3 key because it is not backward compatible with the BG4 key reader. - Open two or more Internet browsers at a time to access one single My Garage; you can end up with data corruption and loss of BG points! - Spend days and nights tinkering your car; it is all down to your skill only. =============================================================================== 7.2 Access to your Car via My Garage ............. %ToMGg72 =============================================================================== After logging in with your username and password in the "Maigaraaji" (My Garage) page, you can pick the option "Kasutamaizu" (Customise) to customise your car. What follows is a bunch of stuff that draws your attention to something else... The online "My Garage" is huge with numerous separate web pages all written in Japanese. Taito, I am sorry to say that it is a fool's hope to expect all your overseas customers / consumers to know YOUR native language. Japanese is never a dominant language in Asia, Europe, or the US. It, however, could take years for me to pinpoint every single page. So I will simply talk about the most important pages, and a few "how to?" questions... =============================================================================== 7.3 The Important Pages .......................... %ImpPg73 =============================================================================== Since I was informed that there is an online interpreter which grants free access to all Internet users. I will simply provide the link here: http://www.excite.co.jp/world/english/web/body/?wb_url= http://four.battlegear.net/web/mb/li1.do&wb_lp=JAEN&wb_dis=3 (The above is ONLY ONE URL and is single-lined) Starting from mid 2006, "My Garage" has been made available with an English and PC version. Not only is it brought to us in comprehensible English, but also it has a better appaearance and is more user-friendly. For celleular phone users, access to "My Garage" is possible with the mobile page that Taito deserves if you have internet connection in your cellphone. The "My Garage" page being discussed in this subsection is directed towards this mobile version of "My Garage" which is written in pure Japanese. My hard work in the translation guide is redundant. However, some users on the Racegame Forum comment that the above translator tends to alter the coding and the source of the My Garage page, resulting in a parameter error when they try to send the information back to Taito's server. Probably this is because Taito has put encryptions in "My Garage" in order to reject any possible Internet browser's plug-in which may be a potential trainer to do online cheatings. This is more like a technical issue and that I do not want to go any further. I have never heard of any cheating methods like that either. As a matter of fact, most readers here are not residents in Japan and so we do not have Netcash, the online real life money exclusive in Japan. Taito only accepts payment via Netcash. That means all the paid functions on My Garage are never enabled for those outside Japan, for example, uploading of your own stickers, organising an online BG4 team, and showing the detailed record of your battle and TA sessions. Back to business, I will brake down the series of the site "My Garage" into separate pages and pages. That are where most helps are needed. The Login URL is: http://four.battlegear.net/web/mb/li1.do;jsessionid=0001GyKhKsOxweMYJxHhHQCNIz2 +Sparrow3ID (single-lined) The below translation guide of the "My Garage" page is broken down into the following parts: - A box which indicates the contents to be found in one single webpage - Translations included in parenthesis () - Hyperlinks indicated by a pair of colons (::) - An arrow and a letter (e.g., --> a) which indicate the page you will go to when you click on the link - Those I think are unimportant will be indicated by three dots (...) #======================================# | The very first page after logging in | #======================================# _____________________________________________________________________________ |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | Entoransu (Entrance) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | . Yookoso [your user name] san (Welcome Mr/Ms [your user name]) | | . Riyouryou... (If you pay, you can use the Garage Extension function) | | Riyouryou... :Kochira: (To pay, click :here:) | | :Meinmenyuu ni sumu: (:To the Main Menu:) --> a| |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | :Roguauto: (:Logout:) | | (C) TAITO 2006 | |_____________________________________________________________________________| #==================# | a. The Main Menu | #==================# _____________________________________________________________________________ |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | Meinmenyuu (Main Menu) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | Shouyuu BG: [your BG points] BG (Total BG: [your BG points] BG) | | | | [?] :Meinmenyuu Keisetsu: (:Main Menu Explanations:) | | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | :Kasutamaizu: (:Customise:) --> b| | :Rankigu (Chuundo): (:Ranking (Tunned):) | | :Rankigu (Noomaru): (:Ranking (Normal):) | | :Oonaa Houhou: (:Owner Information:) | | :Gareeji Settei: (:Garage Setting:) | | :Maichiimu: (:My Team:) | | :Riyou...: (:Pay:) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | :Roguauto: (:Logout:) | | (C) TAITO 2006 | |_____________________________________________________________________________| #======================================================# | b. Car Select (before confirming the Customise page) | #======================================================# _____________________________________________________________________________ |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | Kaaserekuto (Car Select) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | [?] :Kaaserekutotowa?: (:What is Car Select?:) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| |:1 KEYID:[no. on your key shaft]: (: Click here to | |:[your car make]: access your car:) --> c| | | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | . Tourokutaisu (no. of cars registered) | | (no.) | | (:Kurumaotsuikatouroku:) | | (:Add more cars:) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | . Paakingusupeesu (Parking space) | | Suki[no.]kusho | | ([no.] of space left) | | :Kyuunyuu: | | (:Buy:) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | :Meinmenyuunimodoru: (:Back to Main Menu:) | | | | (C) TAITO 2006 | |_____________________________________________________________________________| #===================# | c. Customise Menu | #===================# _____________________________________________________________________________ |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | Kasutamaizumenyuu (Customise Menu) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | . Serekutonokuruma (The car you have chosen) | | 1:[your car make] | | KEYID:[no. on your key shaft] | | 2:[your car make] | | KEYID:[no. on the key shaft of your second car] | | [and so and so...] | | :Hokanokurumaoserekuto: | | (:Select other car(s):) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | [?] :Kokumenyuunokeisetsu: (:Explanation of each menu:) | | | | | | :Chuuningu: (:Tuning:) --> d| | :Doresuappu: (:Dress Up:) --> e| | :Kokushousettei: (:Page setting:) | | :Kaadeeta: (:Car data:) | | :Sensokudeeta: (:Record data:) | | :Messeji: (:Messages:) | | :Sutekkaa: (:Stickers:) --> f| | :Raibaru: (:Rivals:) | | :Chiimukotsudou: (:Team activites:) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | :Meinmenyuunimodoru: (:Back to Main Menu:) | | | | (C) TAITO 2006 | |_____________________________________________________________________________| #=======================================================# | d. Setting Select (before confirming the Tuning page) | #=======================================================# _____________________________________________________________________________ |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | Settinguserekuto (Setting Select) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | [?] :Settingutowa?: (:What is Setting?:) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | . Settingu (Setting) | | 0 [Setting name] 1 (Here is a list of bulletin points. Have one of | | 0 [Setting name] 2 them checked and you have chosen that setting. If | | 0 [Setting name] 3 you have purchased more than one setting, you are | | given the choice to toggle between them. The first | | setting is free of charge." )| | | | . Nanioshimasuka? (What would you do?) | | _________________________________ | | | Chuuninguhesumu (Enter Setting) | | | """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" | | ________________________________________ | | | Settingunaheshin (Change Setting Name) | | | """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" | | ___________________________________ | | | Settinguirran (View all Settings) | | | """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" | | __________________________________________ | | | Settingukopii (Copy/Buy another Setting) | | | """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | . Sousettingusu (Total no. of Settings) | | [no. of settings you have] | | :Kyuunyuu: | | (:Purchase Setting:) | |-----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | :Kasutamaizunimodoru: (:Back to Customise Menu:) | | | | (C) TAITO 2006 | |_____________________________________________________________________________| (Note: The first setting is free of charge. From the second on, each setting costs 200,000 BG Points. ) The subsections which follow base on readers' questions of how to do something with that Japanese "My Garage" page. I will put the solutions here step-by-step. I hope that could be feasible. So if you have a(ny) "How to..." question(s), do not hesitate to email me or leave a message on GameFAQ's Battle Gear 4 Board. =============================================================================== 7.4 Access a Setup aka Setting ................... %AcSUp74 =============================================================================== Login to your garage. There are three links in yellow; choose the middle one. 1. You will be in the screen where the number of your BG points is displayed. From that down, find out the link below the green question mark which reads "Kasutamaizu" (Customise). 2. You will then see your car model/s. Make your selection. 3. Ok. Your car model appears on the top-left corner of the screen. Again, find out the green question mark with square brackets. The link below it is the "Chuuningu" (Tuning) option that brings us to the car's setup. 4. The next page comes with four boxes that you can click on. The first one grants you access to that particular setup. The second one allows you to change the setup's name. The third gives you an overview of what you have done with that setup. And the last box will deduct BG points from you because it opens up yet another setup for your car. 5. So if you have more than one setup for a car, you will in the above page see some bulletin points. Those bulletin points refer to the current setups of your car. Choose one setup to deal with by clicking a bulletin point. =============================================================================== 7.5 Parts Change ................................. %PtChn75 =============================================================================== I suppose you have no problem accessing the tuning page and hence a setup for your car right now. If not, please refer to the subsection 3.2.1 right above. 1. Login. Choose your car. Enter the customise page. Then tuning. And a setup. 2. To change parts, here we are in the right place. You will find SIX links in the group of "SouzokukeiChuuningu" (Control Tuning), and THREE links in the group of "PawaakeiChuuningu" (Power Tuning). 3. Things here are so complicated. To keep my discussion within manageable accounts here, let me simply pick the suspension to focus on. The logic will be the same when you purchase other parts. 4. Let us say if you want to buy and then change the "Sasupenshon" (suspension) you will first of all need to find out the link "Sasupenshon". A page with pictures shows up. 5. On the very right side of each picture which shows you its association with the actual part, you need to click the yellow link there. Another pages pops and that is where you wil need to make a putchase by clicking the click on the right side. 6. If you have more than one part, similar to the customise page, there will be bulletin points. You may choose one part by selecting one bulletin. =============================================================================== 7.6 Sticker Addition ............................. %StkAd76 =============================================================================== Login. Select your car. Choose "Kasutamizu" (customise). 1. To change your sticker, in this screen you should access the SIXTH link counting from the BOTTOM which reads "Sutikkaa" (sticker). 2. Find out the rest yourself. That is pretty straightforward. =============================================================================== 7.7 AT/MT/Reverse MT Toggling .................... %AMRTT77 =============================================================================== Login to your garage and select your car. Then, 1. You will see the name of your car on the top-left corner of the screen. That is where we start. 2. See a green question mark in square brackets? From that down, we choose the third option which is written fully in Kanji (Chinese characters). Well, that is the only option all in Kanji in the entire page. 3. Click it and we will be brought to another screen. Choose the option which is above the BGM one. That is also the one below the greeen question mark. 4. That's it! You will see a box with the options MT / AT / MT(reversed). Pick your one and remember to click the box on your very right to confirm your choice. 5. For your interest, MT is manual transmission; AT is automatic transmission; and MT(reversed) is tricky--MT(reversed) refers to an upshift by pulling the gearstick UP, and a downshift by pulling it DOWN, which is the exact opposite way for the default shifting control. =============================================================================== 7.8 Special Shiyou (Sample/Vinyled) Cars ......... %SSVC378 =============================================================================== Here in Taito's page with diagrams: ------------------------http://www.battlegear.net/bg4/car.html These cars are unique not only in thier vinyls but also the tweaking. If you have any of these cars by any chance, you should unlock them via My Garage. You can't miss them! __________________ [End of CHAPTER III] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER IV: TUNES, PARTS, AND SETUPS _______________________________________________________________________________ Getting down to the real and most fascinating (frustrating?) aspect when we deal with race cars... tunes. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) Tuning--Performance Upgrades ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For the sake of simplicity on the "My Garage" page, all the parts below are organised in the order that they appear in the page but not in alphabetical order. That saves both of us time to refer back and decode the Japanese names on the page. These are the internal upgrades that a car can get. Unlike some other racing games, BG4 does not distinguish between tunes and parts. All the internal upgrades mentioned below refer to tuning. Tuning affects the performance of a car. With a brief explanation of what each tuning does and how many BG Points each tuning requires, I will also discuss the importance of each of the tuning that would benefit you (and me) most. As you may realise, some of the tuning is exactly like those in GT4 in which you must install the upgrades step by step. I call them the "tier-upgrades", and I will indicate them. As for any tier-upgrades, you cannot skip one level ahead of them. Say for instance, you must start with level 1 and then 2 and then 3; you cannot start right from level 2, and you cannot jump from level 1 to 3 either. I will organise each of the following subsections into this format: Tier-upgrade - Whether the part is a step-by-step installation Cost - How many BG Points the part costs Total cost - If the part is a tier-upgrade The plan - What the part actually does and my suggestions Below are the subsections you will find: (8.1) Brake : Brake Level 1 to 3 which shortens the braking distance (8.2) Tyres : Normal, High Grip, Drift, Soft, Medium, and Hard Circuit typres which affects the handling of the ride (8.3) Suspensions--Front Stabiliser : Affects response and cornering (8.4) Suspensions--Rear Stabiliser : Affects response and cornering (8.5) Suspensions--Spring Set : Normal, Lowdown, Street, Rally, and Racing suspension sets which contribute to different handling (8.6) Spring Set -Springs : Affects grip and stability (8.7) Spring Set--Dampers : Governs spring movements (8.8) Spring Set--Ride Heights : Connected to aerodynamics (8.9) Bodykit : Level 1 to 3 reducing the weight, and increasing the maximum cornering angle (8.10) Traction--Transmission : Drivetrains Level 1 to 3 reduce friction loss mechanically in the engine, and enhance a smoother output (8.11) Traction--Final Gear Ratio : Normal, Super low, Low, and High (and Super high exclusive in BG4T) balancing speed and power (8.12) Traction--Gearbox : 5-MT, and 6-MT (and CRT exclusive in Honda Fit) counts towards a choice of either offline acceleration or top speed FF, FR, 4WD contributes to different drivetrains (8.13) Aeroparts : Installed all around the body to create downthrusts and increase the cornering ability (8.14) Engine--Swapping Engine Type : Only in some cars can the engine be swapped from NA to turbo or vice versa (8.15) Engine--Engine Levels : Level 1 to 4. Nitro/Boost is available at or after Level 3 (8.16) Engine Coolant : Level 1 to 3 which takes effects in high speed manevouring (8.17) Mufflers : Normal, Sports 1, 2, and Racing 1, 2, providing the engine with optimum power outputs at a certain revolution rate at a certain speed =============================================================================== 8.1 Brake ........................................ %TnBrk81 =============================================================================== The brake is a tier-upgrade ranging from level 1 to level 3. The costs are: - Normal : - (stock) - Level 1 : 50,000 BG - Level 2 : 150,000 BG - Level 3 : 250,000 BG The total cost of upgrading the brakes from level 1 to 3 is 450,000 BG points. Installation of brakes IMHO is not that an urgent need. A stock braking system can always be compensated by braking and shifting down earlier. It seems to be misleading for a complete beginner to upgrade the brake to level 3, and then brake late because they think the brakes will do the rest for them. That ends up with not being able to judge the braking distance. So learn the proper braking technique and learn judging the braking distance before you install stronger braking systems. Tell you what, by the time I got everything level two, my brake is still sitting at stock. That might be more like a personal choice but the decision is all yours; why not in the first place go for stuff that makes your car go fast but not slow down fast? =============================================================================== 8.2 Tyres ........................................ %TnTrs82 =============================================================================== Tyres are not a tier-upgrade. You can purchase and install any one in any order. - Normal : - (stock) - S. Radial (Sports) : 90,000 BG - HG. Radial (High Grip Rally) : 130,000 BG - Drift (Drift) : 150,000 BG - Circuit Soft (SD) : 250,000 BG - Circuit Medium (MD) : 250,000 BG - Circuit Hard (HD) : 250,000 BG You can, however, only have them one in a setting. That means you CANNOT install, say for instance, Circuit Soft in the front and HG Radial at the rear. There are no this type of free and random tyre combinations. If you choose to install a type of tyres, all of the wheels will have only those tyres. Get them FIRST no-matter-what. Either one set of these tyres, except Drift, drastically increases the traction of your car, and it is a must that you should get the hang of your car as soon as possible. If you decide to leave the tyres alone until you get almost everything else upgraded, you may have to struggle to relearn the control of your ride once after you get used to the stock tyres which you have been using so long. So install either one set of these tyres quick, and get the hang of them asap. I suggest you may go for the Circuit ones. They drastically improve both the acceleration and cornering ability of your car. BG Points may better be saved for tyres in the first place. Apparently it may not be the straightforward way of "the harder the better". Experimenting with different tyres may help if you got extra BG Points in hand. As many users on Racegame have reported, all the tyres prone to the same "wearing-out" problem. It is the extent of wearing that makes these tyres different. Different materials compose different tyres. This makes the attribute of the tyres different. ___________ S. Radial The sports radial tyres are not much of a difference with stock tyres. Their relatively lower price cannot outweigh their own uselessness. Do you feel any difference having installed them on your ride? I doubt it. Drop me a note if you say yes. I could be wrong though. ____________ HG. Radial These high grip radial tyres are my good friend. As its name suggests, the HG tyres increases the grip of your ride. The drawback is, however, a lowering in the cornering angle which results in an overall slower performance in corners. High skill in "slow in fast out" is involved, provided the car could go all the way grip with the least possible amount of traction loss in the hand of a decent grip-styled player. _______ Drift Drift tyres are more like a Japanese style manevour which make your ride tend to go sideways to turn. Overcoming the speed loss in using drift tyres is not a pleasant task to do. Unless you are practicing the Drift Mode in BG4T, or else I do not see why you have to manage to make you and your ride miserable. ______________ Circuit Soft Soft tyres work well in low-mid temperatures. Near the start and about the middle of a course are the time that soft tyres work best. Soft tyres tend to grip better in the first-half of a course but starts to wear out very soon and, therefore, loses its "grippability" during the second-half of a course. The "behaviour" of the car thus becomes noticably worse after the mid-half and at the end of a course because the car slides more often. That might also have shed some light on the fatigue problem. That drivers may pull out worse near the end of a course is probably not merely because of fatigue but also the worsened handling of the car with which the soft tyres installed are wearing out. ________________ Circiut Medium To strike a balance between the gripping ability and the durability of the tyres, the Circuit Medium tyres (MD) seem to be an appropriate choice. Experimenting with different tyres can also help you make your decision. There is no absolute right or wrong choice. ______________ Circuit Hard The harder the tyre, the more durable it is but the drawback is that harder tyres need a longer time to attain their optimum temperature to build up their normal gripping ability. The story is a total contrast from soft tyres. Hard tyres do not show any sign of decent grip until after somewhere approximately halfway through an entire course. Contact with the ground heats hard tyres up and hard tyres are very much resistant to being worn out. The result is that hard tyres help you pull out better from halfway till the end of a course. =============================================================================== 8.3 Suspensions--Front Stabilisers ............... %SFASb83 =============================================================================== The suspension tuning here is a collective term which can be further broken down into: (8.3) Suspensions--Front Stabiliser (8.4) Suspensions--Rear Stabiliser, AND (8.5) Suspensions--Spring Set I will talk about the three of them one by one in the following subsections... The BG prices of a front stabiliser are: - Normal : - (stock) - Hard : 60,000 BG - Super hard (S. Hard) : 60,000 BG - Ultra hard (U. Hard) : 60,000 BG Front stabilisers are NOT tier-upgrades, meaning that you can have any of them installed at any time. Their combination with rear stabilisers is totally free. You can have Hard in front, and S.Hard at rear, or any other combinations you can think of. _______________________ Technical Description Stabilisers, aka stabiliser bars, are part of a car's suspension system. They are sometimes also called anti-sway bars or anti-roll bars. Their purpose is to try to prevent the car body from "rolling" in sharp turns, and from "flipping" on bumpy roads. They are designed to stabilise the car by limiting body rolls. Imagine a car in a sharp turn with you riding inside; you know that your body gets pulled towards the outside of the turn. The same thing is happening to all parts of the car. So the part of the car on the outside of the turn gets pushed down towards the road; whilst the part of the car on the inside of the turn rises up. In other words, the body of the car "rolls" 10, 20 or even 30 degrees towards the outside of the turn. If you take a turn fast enough, the tyres on the inside of the turn can rise off above the road surface, and the car flips over. Roll is bad. It tends to put more weight on the outside tyres but less weight on the inside, reducing traction. It also messes up steering. What you would like is for the body of the car to remain flat through a turn so that the weight stays distributed evenly on all the four tyres. A stabiliser tries to keep the car body flat by moving force from one side of the body to another. To picture how a stabiliser works, imagine a metal rod that is an inch or two (2 to 5 cm) in diameter. If your front tyres are 5 feet (1.6 meters) apart, make the rod about 4 feet long. Attach the rod to the frame of the car in front of the front tyres, but attach it with bushings in such a way that it can rotate. Now attach arms from the rod to the front suspension member on both sides. When you go into a turn now, the front suspension member of the outside of the turn gets pushed upward. The arm of the sway bar gets pushed upward, and this applies torsion to the rod. The torsion then moves the arm at the other end of the rod, and this causes the suspension on the other side of the car to compress as well. The car body tends to stay flat in the turn. Stabilisers may be of a side effect of destabilising the car, however. They have a major flaw. They make independent suspensions less independent. Let me give you a brief example, when a car takes a bump on one side only, the stabilisers interpret this as body roll, and straighten the body. It makes the car even more "jumpy" as an adverse effect. (Source: SimRacingWorld) ________________ Recommendation Done with the technical issues about stabilisers, we are now about to move on how to choose the smot suitable stabilisers. If a stabiliser is too soft, you tend to have a lot of trouble with body roll in a turn. If you have too much stabiliser, you tend to lose independence between the suspension members on both sides of the car. When one wheel hits a bump, the stabilisers transmit the bump to the other side of the car as well, which is unwanted. The ideal is to find a setting that reduces body roll but does not hurt the independence of the tyres. In the front, Hard or S.Hard stabilisers are recommended when the "jumps" in BG4 are taken into consideration. The "jumps" can be found in these three courses: Chiuukyuu, Dokyuu, and Choudokyuu. Those are not intended for stunt jumps and there is no such a thing in this game. I refer them as "jumps" because those are the spots where the car will occasionally be lifted off the ground and outhandled. If, however, you manage to get the stabilisers right, you can get rid of the "jumpiness". An Ultra Hard front stabiliser worsens this harm. On courses other than the three mentioned above where the road surface is flat, an U.Hard stabiliser in the front is recommended. The higher downward pushing force produced by an ultra hard front stabiliser reduces body roll during sharp turns, and contributes to a higher turning speed. =============================================================================== 8.4 Suspensions--Rear Stabilisers ................ %SRASb84 =============================================================================== The BG prices of a rear stabiliser are: - Normal : - (stock) - Hard : 60,000 BG - Super hard (S. Hard) : 60,000 BG - Ultra hard (U. Hard) : 60,000 BG Rear stabilisers are NOT tier-upgrades, and their combination with the front stabiliser is totally free. The logics are all the same as in the front ones. At the rear, however, a stabiliser softer than the front is recommended so as not to have the back end of the car slide out during a turning motion. Rear stabilisers could have mostly up to the same stiffness with the front one but can never be harder than that. Otherwise, the independence of the rear tyres will be destroyed, causing them to malfunction and causing the car to slide and outhandle. =============================================================================== 8.5 Suspensions--Spring Set ...................... %SSpgS85 =============================================================================== The four suspension units, aka spring sets, are NOT tier-upgrades. You can have any single one of them at any time but each spring set comes as a whole for both the front and the rear. No free combinations are allowed. Spring sets are NOT tier-upgrades. The respective costs are: - Normal : - (stock) - Low Down : 50,000 BG - Street (+/-5 adjustable) : 250,000 BG - Racing (+/-10 adjustable) : 300,000 BG - Rally (+/-10 adjustable) : 300,000 BG Since a spring set is expensive, you may want to consider installing them after you have one or two levels of engine upgrades. A spring set other than Low Down grants you the chance to adjust in your car: 1) the spring stiffness, 2) the dampers, AND 3) the ride height. When we talk about spring sets, we are referring to three variables that affect your car--the spring stiffness, the dampers, and the ride height. A spring set is what allows you to fine tune your car that makes lives different. All of those adjustments greatly affects the cornering ability, and the stability of your car. The three units in this suspension area are equally as important. You should get them as a priority to minimise the fishtailing of your car to stand a chance against the driftiness of the BG4 physics. The adjustability of the street and racing spring sets are as follows: TABLE 2: Adjustability of suspensions _____________________________________________________ | | | Normal - Nil | |-----------------------------------------------------| | Low Down - Nil | |-----------------------------------------------------| | Street Suspension - Front spring rebound : +/- 5 | | Rear spring rebound : +/- 5 | | - Front damper bound : +/- 5 | | Rear damper bound : +/- 5 | | - Front ride height : +/- 5 | | Rear ride height : +/- 5 | |-----------------------------------------------------| | Racing Suspension - Front spring rebound : +/- 10 | | Rear spring rebound : +/- 10 | | - Front damper bound : +/- 10 | | Rear damper bound : +/- 10 | | - Front ride height : +/- 10 | | Rear ride height : +/- 10 | |-----------------------------------------------------| | Rally Suspension - Front spring rebound : +/- 10 | | Rear spring rebound : +/- 10 | | - Front damper bound : +/- 10 | | Rear damper bound : +/- 10 | | - Front ride height : +/- 10 | | Rear ride height : +/- 10 | |_____________________________________________________| The racing springs provide you with a greater flexibilty to manually adjust the stiffness of the springs, the dampers, and the ride height of the car's body. As one of my readers Johny points out, the street suspension is not equal to the racing suspension. The performance are all different even if, say for example, the stiffnesses of the springs and dampers are all set to the same value of Hard 1. That is to say, the Hard 1's in a street suspension are not those in a racing suspension. Many thanks to Jhony who inspires me to further study the suspensions. I found out that it is pretty obvious that with a rally suspension, the standard rdie height is still much higher than the standard ride height of any other suspensions. This proves Jhony's finding. Seeking advice from a pro player who goes by the name of Marry on Racegame (who is actually a gentleman though!), I confirmed Jhony's finding to be valid. Why would I have to make wild guesses when I have a pro player to meet in real life and to seek advice from? Let me share our view on suspensions with you... _______________________________ Choosing the Right Suspension 1) On twisty courses like Choujoukyuu and Dokyuu, Street Suspension works best. 2) On bumpy roads like Chiuukyuu and Choudokyuu, Rally Suspension is preferred. 3) On courses with mid to high speed corners as in Choushoukyuu, Shoukyuu, and Joukyuu, Racing Suspension is recommended. =============================================================================== 8.6 Spring Set--Springs .......................... %StSpg86 =============================================================================== The misconception of "the harder the better" stands out again. Springs too soft will cause the body of the car to "bottom-out" and scrap the ground, suffering from a severe speed and acceleration penality. Springs too hard will loosen the car by not allowing the tyres to be fully in contact with the road surface. _______________________ Technical Description Below is a description I found on SimRacingWorld which illustrates the matter very well: "Adjusting the suspension can fundamentally change the way the car feels. The main adjustments of the suspension are: spring stiffness, damper rates, ride height and anti-roll bar [stabiliser] stiffness. Adjusting these affects the handling in both lateral (mid corner) and longitudinal (braking and accelerating) at both low and high speed cornering. The springs carry the weight of the car, so if you go too soft the car will 'bottom out' easily, forcing you to raise the ride height or use bump stops. Go for too stiffer spring and the tyres won't be in contact with the road 100% of the time and the grip level will therefore be lower unless the track surface is perfectly smooth (which is never the case)." (Source: SimRacingWorld) ___________________________________________ Choosing the Right Spring Stiffness Value Overly on all courses except Choushoukyuu which is perfectly smooth, softer springs are of a great advantage. The value should best be set between: - Street Suspension : Standard and Soft 4 - Racing Suspension : Standard and Soft 8 - Rally Suspension : Standard and Soft 5 Hard spring values are not recommended because the car loses traction easily that way; whilst soft springs grant firmer grips on the road surface. Depending on the weight distribution of your ride, you can set the values of the front and rear springs in separation accordingly. Softer springs in the front causes the car to respond more quickly in turns; whilst softer rear springs give the car more grip but reduce the maximum possible turning angle. =============================================================================== 8.7 Spring Set--Dampers .......................... %StDmp87 =============================================================================== Dampers are NOT shock absorbers! They only REBOUND the compressed springs. _______________________ Technical Description A damper controls the resistance from the shock when it is stretched. Controls how fast your car returns to its initial state dictated by springs. Usually rebound is higher than, and may be often double, the compression rate. This is mainly because in rebound, the weight is lifted from the car. It keeps the car from jumping back, and from rebounding too vigorously which may lose the car's balance. Ideally, the dampers should be stiff enough to keep the car body movement nice and smooth but not too stiff because it will make the car "hook" and react slower to steering motions. The damper provides a resistance to spring movement which helps the spring to settle after hitting a bump. Without them the car would just continue bounce up and down after hitting a bump in the road. Using very weak dampers will give a similar effect and will tend to make the handling inconsistent, often leading to a car that you have to "fight" through a corner. Running the dampers too firm will stop the spring from absorbing bumps in the road. However, running the dampers a bit firmer than normal can make the transitions from braking to accelerating (and vice versa) smoother with more predictable handling. Essentially in this case you are trading grip for driveability because using too firmer damper is just like stiffening the spring. If the car does not feel "alive" on it's suspension, chances are the dampers are too firm. Dampers... can only be set properly by trial and error... A setting of... [Soft 10] means the damper will provide the lowest amount of resistance it can, allowing the spring to compress or recoil quicker. But how do you know the relationship between a setting of... [soft 10] and the maximum setting of... [Hard 10]? Racing dampers offer a maximum bump to rebound ratio of approximately 1:2. On that basis it's fair to assume that a damper setting of... [Hard 10] offers twice as much resistance as a setting of... [Soft 10]. (Source: SimRacingWorld) ___________________________________________ Choosing the Right Damper Dampening Value Feasible damper values could be obtained between: - Street Suspension : Hard 4 and Standard - Racing Suspension : Hard 8 and Standard - Rally Suspension : Hard 5 and Standard Soft damper values are not recommended because it loses its functionality of restricting spring compression movements. Hard but not too hard dampers govern spring movements in an effective way. The BG4 physics, however, do not resemble damper stiffnesses in real life, as suggested by the top-tier BG4 players in the Racegame Forum. Dampers stiffer than springs are recommended. =============================================================================== 8.8 Spring Set--Ride Heights ..................... %StRHt88 =============================================================================== The ride height, either in the front or at the back, cannot be adjusted too high or too low. Too high ride heights increase the air resistance encountered in mid to high speed manevours, and also cause the car to respond slowly as a severe cornering punishment. A ride height which is too low, however, is not a feasible solution either. Too low of a car body does a scrapping on the ground with the body, and drastically reduces the acceleration of your ride, aka "bottom-out". On bumpy roads, in guttering or on cubblestones, any "too low" values in your ride will further the "bottom-out" nuisance. Concretely, set the ride height in harmony with your spring and damper stiffnesses. Take the lowest value of either one, and lowering that value a bit will be the ride height. For example, I have in my NSX, front spring Soft 2 and front damper Standard. The lowest value is Soft 2, and therefore I adjust the front ride height to Low 3 so that the front damper movement will not be restricted by a "too low" ride height. The spring and damper will both function the way I suppose them to be. Setting the front lower than the rear will carry forth a better downthrusting aerodynamic force; whilst the rear lower than the front will have more grip on corners. =============================================================================== 8.9 Bodykit ...................................... %BdyKt89 =============================================================================== Not only does the body lightweight kit reduces the weight of your car, the bodykit also strengthens the metalcase of the car (although this is not obvious in the game). The bodykit is a tier-upgrade leveled from 1 to 3: - Normal costs - (stock) - Level 1 costs 80,000 BG - Level 2 costs 120,000 BG - Level 3 costs 200,000 BG The weight reduction increases the acceleration of your car, while increases the turning radius of your car with a smaller moment of inertia. According to Taito's official description found in "My Garage", the bodykit also reduces body roll, and provides more grip as a result. The bodykit should come early because it increases the speed of your car as well with less loads. =============================================================================== 8.10 Traction--Transmission ...................... %TrTmn80 =============================================================================== The Drivetrains, aka Transmission, is a tier-upgrade from Level 1 to 3. The costs are: - Normal : - (stock) - Level 1 : 100,000 BG - Level 2 : 150,000 BG - Level 3 : 200,000 BG Drivetrains Level 1 to 3 reduce friction loss mechanically in the engine, and enhance a smoother power output. Needless to mention, the Drivetrain is also a part that can make your ride goes faster. That is essential to have these upgrades as early as possible. =============================================================================== 8.11 Traction--Final Gear Ratio .................. %TrFGR8a =============================================================================== The Final Gear Ratio is, of course, not a tier-upgrade, and can be purchased separately without restrictions of having bought a certain one beforehand before proceeding to another one. The costs of a gearbox with its respective final gear ratios are: - Normal : - (stock) - Low : 100,000 BG - Super Low : 120,000 BG - High : 120,000 BG - (Super High is exclusive in BG4T only) The Final Gear Ratios balance speed and power output. Lower gear ratio means that the top speed reached by each gear is reduced, causing the engine to cross its powerband and reach its maximum revolution rate faster. In other words, a low gear ratio grants more powerful outputs from the engine but slower speeds of the car. Super Low and Low Final Gear Ratios work best on courses with huge differences in altitudes, i.e. steepness. A high gear ratio requires a low engine revolution rate. Less engine revs with high gear ratio lead to more wheel revs, and thus the car's travelling speed is increased. This may, however, cause the engine output to go underpower. Only on a flat course should Normal or High Final Gear Ratios be used. =============================================================================== 8.12 Traction--Gearbox ........................... %TrGBx8b =============================================================================== The Gearbox is not an option available for all the cars. It is NOT a tier- upgrade, and the corresponding BG costs are: - Normal : - (stock) - 5MT to 4WD : 280,000 BG (Debatable) - 6MT to 5MT : 280,000 BG (Debatable) - 5MT to 6MT : 280,000 BG (Debatable) Some 6-geared cars can be switched back to 5 gears, like the Mitsubishi Evo. Some cars can be metaphoured into an 4WD monsterious, like the Pegeout 206! The main thing to be taken into account when you make your choice is that 6MT favours offline acceleration starting from zero, and also low to mid speed acceleration. The tradeoff of a 6MT gearbox is a more frequent gear changing because each gear has become shorter, which may lead to more wait time from gear to gear where your car's speed is "clung" for half a second. 5MT favours a smoother gear change simply because you change gear less often. =============================================================================== 8.13 Aeroparts ................................... %TnAPt8c =============================================================================== Here is a whole collection of the aerodynamic parts that Taito provides you with pictures to preview what your car looks like with them installed. Read them on the official site at: ------------------------http://www.battlegear.net/bg4/car.html I will simply list them in order here. 1) Bonnets (Hoods in American English) 2) Front bumper 3) Side skirt 4) Rear bumper 5) Rearview mirror 6) Wing 7) Roof The reason I do not like them that much is it may spoil the appearance of my car if they are not chosen in harmony. More like a personal choice. From a Taiwanese Forum (the exact URL escapes me) I have heard that there IS a very slight difference across these aerodynamic bumpers, sideskirts and hoods. It is said that the Racing 1 parts are better off in accelerations, whilst the Racing 2 ones are better off in downthrusts, and the rally ones do both. I have tried pure Racing 1, pure Racing 2, and Rally aero parts but did not feel a difference. You may as well have a try and email your discovery to me. Ricer! =============================================================================== 8.14 Engine--Swapping Engine Type ................ %TESpE8d =============================================================================== There are two main types of engines in BG4, and in real life as well. These are the NA (Naturally Aspired) engines and the Turbo engines. Taito programmes some cars with an engine swappable from NA to turbo or vice versa. The engine swap, of course, is NOT a tier-upgrade, and the cost is: - NA to Turbo : 800,000 BG - Turbo to NA : 800,000 BG (Debatable) The reason I put the word Debatable after the BG point requirement is that I do not have a ride that provides me with a chance to swap its engine. Also, the engine swapping process in some cars could be different from one another. The BG points required in an engine swap is only a pretty rough estimation. _______________________ Technical Description NA (Naturally Aspired) engines are commonly found in seasonal wagons because of its praticality. Stepping on the gas pedal grants the driver an immediate response from an NA engine. With a turbine system installed, Turbo engines are better off producing supreme power compared with an NA engine built with the exact specifications as such. The unpopularity of turbo engines is accounted for by that they are expensive to build in the first place, and, most importantly, they suffer from a "turbo lag" nuisance. "Turbo lag" refers to the time lag between the driver's hit on the gas and the engine's responding revving up rate. The more powerful and higher boost pressure is, the longer the time lag (turbo lag) will be. In sport cars, turbo engines are more commonly found. ___________________________ Choosing the Right Engine Most cars do not have an option to swap from NA to turbo, or vice versa, so this may not be an issue to everyone. Your choice here, if you have a car with a swappable engine, depends on how you want your ride to behave. Quick response, and manuveouring precision come from an NA engine; whilst powerful acceleration is granted in turbo engines. =============================================================================== 8.15 Engine--Engine Levels ....................... %TEElv8e =============================================================================== This is definitely the priority for everyone! Unfortunately, the engine IS a tier-upgrade (of course) in that you will have to get them starting from Level 1. Once you get an engine upgrade up to level 3, you will get in NA engines the Nitroeous Oxide System aka Nitro or NOS, and in turbo engines the Turbo Boosts aka Boost. Pull the Overtaking Switch in the BG4 cab to trigger the nitro/boost. Again, Taito makes life different for every car regarding the engine thing. Some cars get a turbo in level 3 while some does not. As far as I know, NSX does not have a turbo. - Normal : - (stock) - Level 1 : 150,000 BG - Level 2 : 250,000 BG - Level 3 : 400,000 BG - Level 4 : 600,000 BG Someone on Racegame Forum who goes by the name of Yoshinichi commented on the Level 4 engine. He points out that the launch of a Level 4 engine is weaker than that of a Level 3 one. This implies that a Level 3 engine is better off on twsity and technical courses where the top gears and the top speed do not count that much. With any luck, if you find out this is really the case, you may back your Level 3 engine. Not long after Yoshinichi's originality, many good players on the Racegame Forum have come to compromise that a Level 3 engine is all rounded, and is more versatile than the highest Level 4 engine. Comment is that a Level 3 engine provides a smoother and more steady power output that is more manuveourable. It is also noted that although Level 4 engines are far more powerful and capable of attaining a higher top speed on long straights, the disadvantages have it that the braking distance becomes much longer since it increases in multiples with the travelling speed, and that exits upon corners induce traction loss and cause the car to be "driftier". The drawback of Level 4 engines are, therefore, not worth the risks that you take. On twisty, and mountain courses, it is better to reduce to a Level 3 engine. A Level 4 engine should only be used on courses with less turns but more straights which are long enough to unleash the full acceleration power of your car. =============================================================================== 8.16 Engine Coolant .............................. %TECln8f =============================================================================== The Engine Coolant IS a tier-upgrade ranging from Level 1 to 3: - Level 1 costs 100,000 BG - Level 2 costs 100,000 BG - Level 3 costs 150,000 BG The effects on the engine coolant on the performance of your car may be very subtle until after you have all its 3 levels installed. This subtle difference is obvious if and only if the enigne is revving at its powerband with the car travelling in the 5th or 6th gear as a high speed manuveour. Simply, engine coolants help in hardcore long straights. =============================================================================== 8.17 Mufflers .................................... %TnMfl8g =============================================================================== You can have only one muffler installed at a time. They are NOT a tier-upgrade. - Normal : - (stock) - Street (Low rev) : 60,000 BG - Sports 1 (Low to mid rev ; Low speed) : 100,000 BG - Sports 2 (Low to mid rev ; High speed) : 100,000 BG - Racing 1 (Mid to high rev; Low speed) : 120,000 BG - Racing 2 (Mid to high rev; High speed) : 120,000 BG Sports 1 and 2 mufflers work best on twisty mountain courses in Choujoukyuu, Dokyuu, and Choudoykuu where are sharp hairpins quite often. Upon exiting hairpins, a dilemma is faced--whether the 1st or the 2nd gear to rebuild speed? The second gear is better because it takes away the time required to shift up from 1st to 2nd. However in some ocassions the second gear alone is not strong enough to build the low exiting speed up. The solution is to include a Sports muffler, either numner 1 or 2, to allow more power during low revolutions of the engine. That way the 2nd gear is made able to rebuild speed with the right power required. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) Dress Up--Visual Upgrades ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The external visual upgrades only count towards the appearance of your car. It will be better to save the BG4 points by putting these visual upgrades aside until you have your ride full-tuned. Remember the rule of thumb of car tuning is, however, performance counts towards the priority ALWAYS. =============================================================================== 9.1 Body Colour .................................. %VBdCl91 =============================================================================== Apart from the colours available in the start, you can do a paintjob on your ride to obtain some more colours. I am not going to list the colours here because each car has different paintjob colours. You can refer to these colours in Taito's official BG4 site about the cars appeared in the game. - All custmoised colours : 250,000 BG. =============================================================================== 9.2 Headlight Colour ............................. %HltCl92 =============================================================================== This adds a unique and fanciful colour to your headlight:- - White : 160,000 BG - Yellow : 160,000 BG - Purple : 160,000 BG - Blue : 160,000 BG They are very expensive, and should be left behind saving the BG for performance upgrades in the first place for sure. =============================================================================== 9.3 Mud Flaps .................................... %VMFps93 =============================================================================== There are/is two/one mud cover to choose from depending on what car you are using. - Red costs 20,000 BG - Blue costs 20,000 BG They are the cheapest upgrades in the game but are up to visual effects only. =============================================================================== 9.4 Accessories .................................. %VAcRf94 =============================================================================== You can customise your ride here without altering the performance of the car. Rumour in the street has it that the vents in some cars would increase the air resistance as a nuisance against speed and acceleration. But four words, I don't think so. Usually these accessories include eyeline (shading of the headlight or taillight), antennae on the roof or vent on the roof. Prices are different for each of these items. Only a small amount of cars share an option of accessories. =============================================================================== 9.5 Rims (Affects Performance!) ................... %VRWP!95 =============================================================================== This could be of some influence to the car. Anyways, choose the Inch-up ones. They will not do you no harm. Taito officially prononunces in "My Garage" that inch-up rims give the car quicker response in turning. =============================================================================== 9.6 Wheel Colour ......................... %CmfCl96 =============================================================================== This adds a fanciful colour to your wheels to match the colour scheme of your ride. =============================================================================== 9.7 Rims Colour .................................. %RWClr97 =============================================================================== This adds a fanciful colour to your rims to match the colour scheme of your rig. =============================================================================== 9.8 Window Colour ................................ %VWdCl98 =============================================================================== This adds some colour to the wind shield and windows of your ride. I have no idea whether it is only a paintjob done on glass on the windshield or it is actually a coloured heatproof transparent tape we use in cars in real life. =============================================================================== 9.9 Boost Meter .................................. %VBstM99 =============================================================================== The boost meter is viewable in the in-car viewpoint. It works in turbo engines only, and increases with the pressure in, and the revolution rate of the engine. =============================================================================== 9.10 Oil Pressure Indicator ...................... %VIOPI90 =============================================================================== Visual effects only. Does not affect performance. =============================================================================== 9.11 Oil Thermometer ............................. %VIOTm9a =============================================================================== Visual effects only. Does not affect performance. =============================================================================== 9.12 Tachometer .................................. %VTcmt9b =============================================================================== Apparently, no car can reach an rpm (revolution per minute) of 12,000. The only possbility is with the C Class ride Toyota Trueno GT-Apex after a 4AG engine swap (and the AE85 in BG4T). If you manage to buy a key and register a Toyota Trueno, you will encounter the only high revolution engine (11,000 rpm) in the entire game. However, for any other cars, installation of any tachometers makes no sense. It is way too high, and affects your judgement on the engine's rpm. =============================================================================== 9.13 Clock ....................................... %VIUCk9c =============================================================================== The clock is real-time and is a great fun! It tells the time from the Internet server in your place so it refers to the time in your place but not the only Japanese (GMT+9) time. =============================================================================== 9.14 Water Thermometer ........................... %VWtTm9d =============================================================================== The water does not boil. Don't worry. The water thermometers here are for asthetic values only. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) Setting Up Your Car ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you have played the GT series on PS/PS2 before, you must have known of how the setting contributes to the performance of the car. This section is dedicated to reveal a big hidden secret in the setting of your car. Taito probably has overlooked that someone would have taken the chance to tweak the car with an uncommon and unnnatural setting. This secret is discovered by a user who goes by the name of BigHD in the Racegame Forum. Since the oringial idea was generated in Cantonese, I have put efforts into making such a secret comprehensive in English, and into minimising meaning loss during the translation process. This is the way to setting up your car to your advantage: =============================================================================== 10.1 Stability and Control ...................... %SbCtl01 =============================================================================== To my observation, quite many users on the Racegame Forum recommend the circuit medium tyres as they wear out slowly and are more stable and can constantly provide an overly gripping ability. The gripiest, however, is the HG Radial whre HG stands for high grip. As quoted from the Top-end Racing Museum, the suspension and the dampers function in combination with one another in a way simply: - Soft in front, and stiff in rear: the car oversteers - Stiff in front, and soft in rear: the car understeers Let me talk a bit about physics. A car has a roll axis which is determined by its suspensions. The downward force is the weight of the car aka CG (Center of Gravity). The CG normally wants to turn around the roll axis, making the car roll when turning. The idea behind lowering the ride height is to reduce the force by diminishing the vertical distance between the CG and the roll axis and thus to reduce bodyroll. The lower the ride height, the lower the CG is. Theoretically, if the CG is below the roll axis, the car will lean into a turn like a motorbike does. If the front is lower than the rear, a stronger downward force will be exerted on the car. If the front is higher than the rear, the car will tend to oversteer. If either the front or the back is too low, the car will prone to a "bottom-up" situation. Lowering too much has a side effect of limiting suspension travel and therefore decreasing grip from the tyres in that the suspensions do not work well. Tyres are meant to be on the ground, the more time it spends there instead of in the air, the faster and more controllable your car will be. This also applies to bodyroll as it unloads the inside tyres and ultimately lifts them off the ground. =============================================================================== 10.2 Engine Power Output ........................ %EPOpt02 =============================================================================== Mnay users have agreed on that a level 4 engine of the toppest tier is always suffering from "overpoweredness". Decent players on the Racegame Forum are urging people to TA twisty courses, like Dokyuu and Choudokyuu, with only a level 3 engine. Response from advocates is less power trades in more manuevouring ability. And that level 4 engine only unleashes on straightaways. I choose to sit on the fence. Still, I personally prefer level 4 engines in a no-matter-what basis. =============================================================================== 10.3 Grip VS Drift .............................. %GpDrf03 =============================================================================== Grip or Drift? Is it just one way to be in the world? Sorry we are not talking about the Holy Bible. "Grip" is defined as a gaining absolute traction with the ground all time. Grip cars are cars that suck the ground like a vacuum cleaner does. An example of grip car racing is the Formula One circuit racing, and of course the seasonal cars we drive in real life. The front of a grip car is always facing the same direction as it travels. "Drift" aka "slide" is a stylish way of having the car move sideways with the tyres losing friction with the ground. The back end of the car, and sometimes the whole car, slides, and the front is not heading the direction the car is travelling. "Grip" works best on highly polished grounds in that the tyres can remain in contact with the ground, and the area of contact is made as large as possible due to the slick tyres without grooves. This large contact area distributes the pressure on each tyres evenly, and also minimises the pressure. The engine power can then be transversed in an optimum rate to the tyres with the least amount of power loss. To conclude, "Grip" transfers power directly providing the ground is smooth enough. "Drift" works best on twisty courses. That the car tends to slide makes it happy to turn around tight corners. Traction loss is commonplace in the tyres, and steering is made easier. The drawback is there will be power loss which reduces the acceleration of the car. Since the tyres do not remain sucking the ground that often, the car is yet to regain traction with the ground until the power from the engine can actually be transferred to the tyres for the car to speed up. Excessive power will make the car even driftier. It cannot be taken for granted which one is the best. A mixed-approach appears to be more appropriate. Since "Grip" prones to oversteer at mild-high speeds, whereas "Drift" wastes engine power upon exiting sharp turns, "Grip" and "Drift" work well in a way they conpensate each other. In mild to high speeds, when the car shows a tendency to oversteer, induce a drift before entering the corner. If the roadway is wide enough for a sideway motion as such, the car will clear this turn with the minimum speed reduction. In a low to mild speed, when the car encounters a slight curve, try to full or half throttle without braking or pulling the handbrake. If the curve is slight, there will be a high chance that the car can clear that curve by gripping all the way through. Inducing an unnecessary drift in such a case will make the car slower after the apex of the curve, as the rear tyres take time to rebuild friction with the roadway, ending up with wasting some engine power. =============================================================================== 10.4 Advanced Tips and Suggestions ............... %ATpSn04 =============================================================================== There are some advanced tips for setting up your ride... #==========# | AI-Tunes | #==========# Starting off, a nice little story to illustrate how vital AI-tunes are. That day Odie and I were hanging out in the arcade for some nice BG4 actions. Three annoying noobs fought their way to the machines and did a group race. They bragged, and shouted showing-off at one another. I could not help smirking till my teeth fell off. Okay, off they went! They did not have a Netkey and they all chose the AI Racing tunes. The race started. We were surprised. Really. One of those three guys were on an EvoIX which is also Odie's ride. That EvoIX that the freakily geek guy using was far more easier to handle than Odie's. That geeky sucks so much but the car seemed to be responding forgivefully; late brakes, unnecessary full wheels, either-on-or-off gas wouldn't destroy him. Odie brought up the topic, "how does the AI tune the car? That's much more 'grippier' than ours!" My first impression is that the AI is cheating, and that that's why all the AI cars can always get unfair advantages regardless. Though having forgotten when, I nocticed that Taito included an exclusive page on how the AI tunes the cars: ------------------http://www.battlegear.net/bg4/asobi_keyless_set.html Of course I took an immeidate look at the components of the AI tuning... "Gosh! Stupid me!" I whined. It was so devastating. I spent many time sorting out how pro-players and record holders adjust the mechanics of their rides. The result is, officially reliable from Taito, that the racing suspension set needs not to be tweaked but to have them remained intact as specified below... Racing AI-Tune -------------- 1 . Brake : Level 3 2 . Tyres : Circuit Medium 3 . Stabilisers (Front and Rear) : Super Hard 4 . Suspensions Set : Racing 4.1 Front and Rear Springs : Standard 4.2 Front and Rear Dampers : Standard 5 . Ride Heights : Standard 6 . Bodykit : Level 3 7 . Drivetrain : Level 3 8 . Final Gear Ratio : Low 9 . Aeroparts : Racing 1 (for all) 10 . Engine : Level 3 (NOT Level 4!) Type 1 blow off valve for turbo cars 11 . Muffler : Racing 1 12 . Wheel : 6 X 1 GT 13 . Inch Up : Inch Up + Widening Experimenters who take science classes may enjoy tinkering the suspensions, aeroparts, and stabilisers to get the most out of them and to suit their own driving style. Bear in mind that "stock-tuned" cars cannot achieve anything close to world records, or may not even be able to reach your expectation but is very easy to manoevour. The most feasible solution is to tweak and fine-tune your ride by yourself. Non-mechanics may find it extremely frustrating to work out what exactly each part does, or, frankly, they would never notice the subtle differences between slight tweaks. Overlooking your driving skills and overemphasising the setup of your ride would diminish your improvements. The tune of your ride(s) is not the only thing that accounts for your unsatisfaction of not being able to beat a certain TA time or a certain level of AI opponents on a certain course. That is all down to your skill. Fine-tune helps but not to the extent that one may presume. Unless very noticeable, you may not have to re-tune your ride from time to time. Always worry about your driving skill first, forgive me. #================# | All 10 Setting | #================# Thanks to one of the users and pro players in the Racegame Forum, BigHD, who offers us an extremely insightful and concrete solution to tunning our ride: "Since a lot of players have been seeking advice on how to set their ride best, I now decide to share my own way of doing so with you guys. With this unique setting of mine, I managed to achieve 8 world records. The workability of such a setting depends on your driving style. "Let me put it clear in advance; if you think my setting is a madness, you can choose not to try it but please finish reading before you put flames. "Here we go. Before fine-tuning our car, there are these first things first to be dealt with beforehand: "Springs: The softer the springs, the 'grippier' the tyres behave. Set them Soft 10. "Dampers: The harder the damper, the more stable the body of the car is. Set them Hard 10. "Ride height: The lower the ride height, the shortere the dampers (re)bound. The car will be more stable together with the hard 10 dampers. So set the ride height low 10. The car will be more responsive to turns too. "So the setting is basically what I call 'all 10s'. Now it is time to fine- tune your car. If you want more drifts, make the rear of the car driftier by decreasing the rear springs from Soft 10 to, say for example, Soft 8. And meanwhile, the rear dampers from Hard 10 to, say, Hard 8. And also, raise the rear ride height to make it drifier; try ride height 8 in rear. "Result is, you will find many 10's that remain. Think that makes no sense to you? I won't give a damn! But at least that's what I achieved breaking records with. Maybe Taito programmes the game in a way you never know." (Originally posted by BigHD on Racegame) I tried the "All 10s" on my rig NSX but it prones to underpowered acceleration. Board users encountering the same situation suggests that once if a car has already got a low ride height, there will be an adverse effect of further lowering it because the body part may scrap the ground. Keeping them Standard to at most a number of Low 4 would be fine. Do nothing to the ride height. #=====================# | Engine Power Output | #=====================# The engine is a tier upgrade in which there are altogether 4 levels to be installed. Level 1 is the stock engine we have once in our ride. Since Level 4 is the maximum, there are 3 more levels to go regardless of all cars. The higher the engine level, the stronger the power output is. Theoretically, Level 4 engines are the most versatile ones in all cars. However, this session would not have been opened if the above description had always been valid. Powerfulness in Level 4 engines does not necessarily put forward an optimal solution. It has come to my attention that Taito's My Garage page states that Level 4 engines favour an amazing top speed whilst Level 3 engines are big boosts for acceleration in low-mild and mild-high speeds. Racegame visitors have come to a compromise that a Level 3 engine is the most suitable one to achieve both an overall better handling and an overly better time. Other than a very alert and skillful driver, normally players have never ever managed to control the gas so as not to overpower a rig equipped with a Level 4 engine. Among entering corners, it could be hard to judge the accurate braking distance because of the overpowered level 4 engine. Among entering corners, the possibilities are, 1) a lack of sufficient braking force, AND 2) braking too much followed by a slight re-tap of the gas and that the re-tap hauls the car towards the wall. Among exiting corners, level 4 engines are very likely to prone the car to "squirting". Hollow spinning (the wheels are rotating fast but the tyres fail to gain friction to "stick" on the ground) occurs. Too much of a strong sudden power input to the wheels cause the rear to act in this unexpected weird manner. These are all the trade offs of Level 4 engines. There are two major types of engines, NA (naturally aspirated) and turbo (turbine or supercharged). Worst still, Racegame users argue for that turbo lags do occur in Level 4 Turbo engines. The conclusion is, Level 3 engines are most versatile to excel in nearly all courses because of its user-friendliness. Level 4 engines only specify high- speed courses, i.e., the n00bs', and are a waste of the extra power if you are on the twisty mountain courses where high speeds are not attained, like Akina (Dokyuu), and Chouudoyuu. #==================# | Final Gear Ratio | #==================# Have you ever played the Gran Turismo or the Nascar series? If yes, you should know more about final gear ratio than I do. #=========# | Muffler | #=========# Four types of mufflers match with the peak value of the torque output of your engine. =============================================================================== 10.5 Boost Positions ............................. %BPbps05 =============================================================================== Thanks to daytona99 who includes the boost/nitro positions here in his homepage: ----------------------http://www.pbase.com/lamkiuwai/bg4_boost Thanks again for allowing me to include the page. _________________ [End of CHAPTER IV] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER V: DRIVING TIPS _______________________________________________________________________________ With solely verbal descriptions through text, there is only very little that a guide could do. As for any driving games, how well one can achieve depends more upon one's skill. Practice is the key to improve but practice is not simply a repetition. If you keep doing the same thing all over again in a battle or a TA session, you can end up with failure without knowing why. Here in this section, I would like to help you get the most of the technical knowledge, and the application of such knowledge into practice. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) Driving Guidelines ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- =============================================================================== 11.1 General Driving Tips ....................... %DGDTpa1 =============================================================================== Concentration is the first thing after you hopped into a BG4 cab. Just concentrate on your driving only but not anything else; do not think about your homework, girlfriend or whatever you need to do today. As for the physical environment in the arcade, if those devastatingly noisy Drum Mania and Guitar Freaks machines are right next to the BG4 ones, or if there is a WMMT2 cab in which a deaf psycho driver sets the music to maximum, it can be hard for you to concentrate. You may have to consider just end your play after your current credit, or get another BG4 cab which is further away. Keep your attention up. Try not to be curious in an unnecessary observation of what is happening around you in the arcade. If you are battling with some human players, do not engage in an unnecessary observation of your human opponents either. Just be aware of those who are 5 feet away from your car. Do not feel any speical if you see opponents ramming off one another. Do not mock or smirk if your human opponent makes rooky mistakes unless among friends. Do not yell or swear at them either, even if they could have shown that they have no sportsmanship. Minimise your anger when you cannot beat a race or a ghost. Anger will destory you. You will mess up even more if you let it drives your car. If you are starting to feeling up to it, take a break and watch some other games, or get a drink. When you come back again in a proper mood, you will probably do a lot better after releasing your rage. Go through the entire course and be very patient, even if you know you will lose. You may have to see this as a gainful opportunity of practice. Do not turn the key back the ignition to force quit. Your chances of improving will increase significantly if you develop knowledge and memorise landscapes of a course, and if you know at what speeds you are supposed to go during a race. Force quit can piss you off and unfamiliarise you with the middle and the end of a course. Watch your AI opponents go through the course. They tend to show you a lot of maximum possible cornering speeds if you can follow them around from behind. I can assure you that the BG4 AI's are doing physically possible things; unlike the ID ones that get dragging boost on straights and unlike the WMMT ones that are being unevenly and non-overly fast on somewhere but then slow on somewhere. What the BG4 AI's can do is also "doable" by you once you have that skill. =============================================================================== 11.2 Camera Viewpoints .......................... %DCVPta2 =============================================================================== During your first few games, try out the View Change button and choose your favourite camera viewpoint. Press the View Change button to toggle through the three camera viewpoints available. The View Change button can be found, alongside with the Triangle button, to the left of the steering. Playing with different viewpoints all the time makes learning much harder so play around with them for a few games and decide on only one that you like most. What follow are the descriptions, pros, and cons of each camera viewpoint. Here are the three of them... #==================================# | Inside the Car (The Default One) | #==================================# The camera is yourself. You are looking out from the windshield into the track from inside your car. This is the most realistic viewpoint in that you will see the dashboard of your car. The downside is that you will not be able to judge how far you are from the car behind and how close you are getting to walls. Also, the visible area in the screen becomes very limited because the dashboard graphics take up a lot of space in the screen. However, this is the only viewpoint that enables you to see your fanciful meters installed in the dashoard as visual upgrades. These upgrades do not affect the performance of your car. I will discuss them later in the section Tunes, Parts, and Setups. #===================# | On the Front Hood | #===================# The camera is located on the front edge of the hood of the car. Since the camera is at a level same as the player's eyes, that is what the driver would see if he were sitting on the bumper of the car. This view provides you with the greatest sensation of speed because the camera is close to the roadway. It is also easier to judge the distance from the car ahead, and to judge how wide a corner is and how near you are getting close to an obstacle. The car, however, is not visible in this viewpoint so if the car spins out in this view, it might be troublesome for an inexperienced player to countersteer and get the car back onto the track. #===============# | Above the Car | #===============# The camera is located a few feet above the roof of the car, and is also a few feet from behind the rear bumper. It always faces in the direction the car is moving. This is not necessarily the same direction that the car is FACING. It is easier to dodge other cars using this view as all nearby cars (including those very close behind) can be seen. The wheels are visible during turns, letting you see how likely they are about to crash into the wall; and also letting you see the extent of the sideway motion of the wheels. Because the camera does not face in the same direction as the car, you cannot sense how the car is sliding. It is also somewhat frustrating to be able to see that you are heading for a wall when you may not have enough time to do anything about it. =============================================================================== 11.3 Drivetrains--FF, FR, MR, 4WD ............... %DDTrna3 =============================================================================== BG4 is a highly simulated and realistic racing game except for the fact that the cars tend to fishtail a lot even at low speeds. The simulation of the four drivetrains IRL are very well programmed, although they are not well elaborated in Taito's official BG4 site. In this section, I will illustrate my limited knowledge of the drivetrains IRL, following by in-game examples of such cars and the way to handle them best (in theory). #======================================# | Front engine, Front wheel drive (FF) | #======================================# Being the commonest drivetrain layout, FF is used in all the low-cost economy and all seasonal cars for its practicality as in Toyota Camry/Corolla, Honda Civic/Accord, Mazda Protege/Millenium, etc. Having the engine, transmission, steering, front wheels, and shaft in close contact with one another, FF cars are built in a way to minimise any power loss during the transmission of power along long axles from one end to another. With the engine installed in the front, the more "front heavy" FF cars have a tendency to counteract with an understeering problem in all acceleration situations. The understeer characteristic of the in-game FF cars, like the Accord, can be eliminated by pulling the handbrake to lock up the rear wheels, or the left foot braking technique to have the back end of the car slides out. The in-game FF cars available are as followed:-- - Citroen Xsara Coupe VTS - Ford Focus ST170 - Honda Accord Euro-R - Honda Fit 1.5S - Honda Integra Type R - Mazda Atenza 23Z - Mazda Demio Sport - Mini Cooper S - Mitsubishi Colt Plus Sport-X - Nissan March 12SR - Peugeot 206 RC - Toyota Celica TRD Sports M (But WHY? Isn't it well-known for 4WD rally?) - Toyota Vitz RS 1.5L 3door - Volkswagen New Beetle Turbo (This new version of Beetle is FF but not RR) #=====================================# | Front engine, Rear wheel drive (FR) | #=====================================# FR is the commonest drivetrain layout for many low-tier sports cars and luxury sedans. With a neutral weight distribution balanced out around the middle of the body due to an axle that transverses the engine power, FR cars are very versatile in acceleration. With the potential exploit in gaining speed with a high acceleration, FR cars, however, are more likely to be outhandled when cornering. FR cars tend to oversteer at low to medium speeds, whilst understeer at high speeds. If you get the most out of the oversteering characteristic of an FR car, you can have it start to regain speed right after the apex of a turn and hence attains a higher speed when it backs to the straight ending up with a higher exit speed. The in-game FR cars available are as followed:-- - Honda S2000 - Mazda Roadster RS-II - Mazda Rx-7 Type RS - Mazda Rx-8 Type S - Nissan Fairlady Z Version ST - Nissan Silvia spec-R Aero - Toyota Altezza RS200 L Edition - Toyota Supra RZ - Toyota Trueno GT Apex 3door #===================================# | Mid engine, Rear wheel drive (MR) | #===================================# With the lowest moment of inertia found in MR cars than in any other car else, MR cars are very capable of turning smoothly and responsively. The weight distribution is slightly biased towards the rear and hence the acceleration becomes a little weaker, and oversteer happens during mild-speed cornering. MR cars are more user-friendly in that you will not lose too much speed when turning, and the turning motions are controllable and very stable. It gains speed in a steady rate when exiting a turn and on straights as well. The in-game MR cars available are as followed:-- - Honda NSX type S - Renault Lutecia Renault sport V6 - Toyota MR-S S Edition (Pretty self-explanatory) #=======================# | All wheel drive (AWD) | #=======================# All wheel drive is a system that powers all four wheels of a vehicle at all time. During traction loss on the driven axle, could be front or rear, an AWD car can route the torque to the axle back with traction. To do, if one of the two driven axles loses traction, the other one will try to regain traction. AWD vehicles are much less capable in off-road settings but work perfectly on-road. The start-up of an AWD car can be better but its responsiveness in cornering is reduced drastically. They prone to understeer almost at all speeds in all corners. (Source: Harald Pietschmann's answers to 4WD related questions) The in-game AWD cars available are as followed:-- - Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX GSR - Nissan Skyline GT-R V-specII - Subaru Impreza WRX STi spec C - Subaru Legacy B4 2.0 GT spec.B However, there are also these cars which can be upgraded into AWD:-- - Citroen Xsara Coupe VTS - Ford Focus ST170 - Mazda Atenza 23Z - Peugeot 206 RC =============================================================================== 11.4 Speed Control .............................. %DSCtla4 =============================================================================== First off, if you want to be fast and have decent control over your car, AVOID automatic transmission! Learn how to full lock your wheel! Do not laugh. I have seen many n00bs who do not turn the wheel enough ending up with understeer. That may not be the car's or the setting's inadequacy but the driver's. Also, learn half-gas! The BG4 gas pedal is very sensitive and reacts to your right foot like what a real car does. The pedal is not as some arcade racing machine's "either-on-or-off". In BG4, the throttle is digital; it registers how much you are stepping on it, and the engine revs up accordingly. Ok, now we can move deeper... #========# | Launch | #========# Apparently there does not seem to be any difference among "cold start" in NA cars, and "hot start" in turbo cars. So forget about "cold start". To start off, tap about three quarters of the gas and keep the engine just revving slightly lower than its powerband just before the indicator flashes red. When the screen announces GO! you will have to full-gas immediately. If you full throttle before it says GO! you will experience a burnout in the tyres and will lose a bit off the line. You will automatically be in the first gear. Do not wait until the upshift indicator flashes red to shift up to two. The first gear is way too powerful in that if you actually see the rev meter reaches the powerband, it will already be too late to shift up because the time you move your left hand to the gearstick has made the engine revs up to its maximum in the first gear. What you need to do without overrevving the engine in the first gear is to shift up when the speed reaches 40 to 50 km/h. Do not look at the rev meter when you are in the first gear; you just cannot have a reaction time that quick. Players, however, all seem to care less about launching. The reason is you can always have a chance to catch up with the realistic physics which is not the case in ID that the one who beats another off the line can block hardcore without losing speed and control until the finish line. In BG4, there are plenty of chances for you to successfully overtake your opponents later on. #=========# | Upshift | #=========# The indicator on the cab flashes red to remind you to shift up but it always glows so late in that the powerband of the engine has already been revved over. The game is programmed in such a way that the indicator glows after the engine powerband has been reached. To not to decrease the efficiency of the power output, shift up about 500rpm earlier than the time the indicator gives you the signal. You do not have to follow the indicator rigidly; you may, instead, shift up a little earlier to give your car a slight boost to beat your opponent(s) off the line in exactly the way you do in WMMT2 if you have played it before. #===================# | Nitro/Turbo Boost | #===================# For the sake of convenience, I hereby will generalise the two terms nitro and turbo boost into nitro. FYI, you will get three nitros in each run once after you have a level 3 or level 4 engine upgrade. The number and effectiveness of the nitros remain the same in a level 3 and a level 4 engine. NA (Naturally aspired) engines are to be installed with nitros, whilst Turbo engines are to be installed with Turbo boosts. Unless you are familiar with the straights on the course, do not abuse the nitro. You will always have to retard speed at the end of a straight, and if a straight is not long enough for the nitro to unleash the power of the engine, you may end up with a waste of nitro. Make sure it is safe before you trigger it. You have only three chances to nitro. Save your nitros for straightaways. You cannot turn too well while you are using a nitro. Also, make sure you have firm control over your car before you give it a squeeze or you could do more harm than good. If you want to use a nitro during a turn, make sure you have nearly finished turning or else you will be most likely to crash. Use your nitros at the right time. Do not use them near the start of a sharp corner or in the middle of a set of consecutive turns. They would better be conserved for the straights or final stretches of a course. Do not use nitros just because every body else uses them. Your AI/human opponents may have picked the inappropriate time to use nitros. Particularly, as for the high level AI, they have unlimited nitros, and so how can you do what they do in getting such an unfair advantage? #=================# | Speed Reduction | #=================# There are two ways to reduce your speed:-- 1) Engine braking (Gas off and/or downshift), and 2) Pressing the brake pedal Pulling the handbrake will NOT reduce your speed. Instead it induces a drift and a loss of traction in the rear tyres if and only if you are steering. If you are on a straightaway without even a slightest wheel movement and pull the handbrake, your speed will NOT decrease! That is, braking together with the brake pedal and the handbrake will only count as the "foot brake" only. Always brake eariler than you do in games like ID3, and WMMTs. The brakes in BG4 are more realistic; they do not respond that well during mild-high speeds. =============================================================================== 11.5 Cornering--Line-taking ..................... %DLnTka5 =============================================================================== Before we take a look at the cornering techniques, there is a nice little discovery by one of my readers J1M. Here is what it is: "Different cars, the steering wheel feels different. on the same machine too for example my 86 has lots of feedback that i could feel(and i like). while my friends RX-8 gives little feedback and is a breeze to drive.... "feel free to gather more info on the different vehicles and the steering feedback?? the 86 and the RX-8 is accurate lol." I have not actually noticed that. Perhaps my NSX and my Rx-7 shares the same wheel stiffness. I tried Odie's EvoIX before but did not feel any difference that obvious either. I start to make my rough generalisation; the NSX, Rx-7, and EvoIX all belong to Class A. That leads me to the question, "Maybe cars in different classes have different steering feedback?" Alright, I am leaving spaces to explore. Let's move on... Attempts in making sharp turns should be made in the outer but not the inner line. For example, if there is a sharp righthander, you should approach the corner from the left, which is the outside lane. Align your car parallel to the guardrails on the outside, i.e., the left if you are making a sharp right, and slow down to normal in a way that the car responses well with your steering motion. Aim for the inside, aka the apex, of the turn. This way you can make the turn with the maximum possible speed. Below is a diagram which visualises this basic idea: Diagram 1: Proper line-taking in cornering aka OUT-IN-OUT ___________________________ | | | Key: X = car | | ;.' = wall | | | | | | ................. | | . ' X X X X X X X | | . X | | . X ................ | | . X." | | . X . | | ; X . | | ;X ; | | ;X ; | | ;X ; | | ;X ; | |___________________________| You may have asked why we do not choose to do the above righthander in-in-in; that is hug the innermost line all the way from the start of the corner upon exit. No, we do not clear the turn in-in-in because that will drastically reduce the apex speed. If you desire to perform an in-in-in in a hairpin, you would encounter enormous difficulty because you will have to slow down to no faster than 20km/h to hug the innermost line all time. We may not want to encounter a speed that low. =============================================================================== 11.6 Cornering--Apex Hugging .................... %DApxHa6 =============================================================================== Let us continue with the sharp righthander as in the above example. Guide the car towards the middle of the turn, aka the "apex", ending up with the slightest line of curvature which drastically increase the speed of clearing out the corner. Since after you manage to get as closest to the apex as possible, the car will appear to slide out and is about to crash. You will then, however, find that the car tends to slide out from the apex but is exiting the corner very close to the outer wall. Make sure your car does not make an actual contact with the outer wall upon exit. Once if both the line-taking and apex-hugging are done properly, your car ends up with the largest radius of curvature during the cornering process, resulting in a highest possible speed all over the corner. There is a reason for a corner to be that wide; use all the space available and practice the out-in-out cornering technique. =============================================================================== 11.7 Drifting--Inertia Drift .................... %DDInDa7 =============================================================================== The physics in BG4 is programmed in a way that your car is very likely to drift and fishtail a lot even during low-speed cornering. The drift happy cars share the following drifting methods in common but I could not emphasise more that textual descriptions have very little to do with your actual skills. You need practice here... #=============# | What is it? | #=============# Gas off and let the inertia of the rear of the car slides into a corner. #==============# | Applications | #==============# - FR cars - Corners between 90 to 180 degrees #=======# | To do | #=======# 1. Before entering the corner, full gas 2. Entering the corner, release the gas and turn the wheel at the same time 3. The car starts to slide becasue of its inertia at the rear end 4. Downshift and the car continues sliding 5. Gently tap the gas and the rear tyres regain traction upon exit =============================================================================== 11.8 Drifting--Braking Drift .................... %DDBkDa8 =============================================================================== #=============# | What is it? | #=============# Brake and transfer the weight towards the front causing the rear to spin out. #==============# | Applications | #==============# - FR cars - Corners sharper than 90 degrees #=======# | To do | #=======# 1. Before entering the corner, brake and very slight gas at the same time 2. Entering the corner, gas off and brake very little and turn hard 3. Release the brake and countersteer to balance out the fishtailing motion 4. Adjust the angle for exiting the corner 5. Full throttle upon exit =============================================================================== 11.9 Drifting--Sidebrake Drift .................. %DDSbDa9 =============================================================================== #=============# | What is it? | #=============# Pull the handbrake and throw the back end of the car out into a corner. #==============# | Applications | #==============# - FF cars #=======# | To do | #=======# 1. Before entering the corner, slightly turn the wheel towards the corner 2. Pull the handbrake and have the rear start to move sideways 3. Downshift and cause the rear to slide more 4. Release the handbrake and keep the car in a slide motion 5. Full throttle upon exit Below is Shiseirou's submission of his tryout experience: "I found this way of drifting quite good for beginners so I wish to share with people who just started playing this game. "When you about to enter a curve (>90 drg) let go the gas panel, turn AND pull the hand-break together, apply a little gas on it(your hand-break should be STILL pulling up). The car will drift just the amount u turn the wheel. I try in Chiuukyuu with my GDB and the result is quite good." =============================================================================== 11.10 Drifting--Straight Drift .................. %DStDta0 =============================================================================== #=============# | What is it? | #=============# Have the car drifting already on the straight before entering a corner. #==============# | Applications | #==============# - Very narrow 90-degree corners #=======# | To do | #=======# 1. Before entering the corner, slightly turn the wheel on the straight. Use any of the drift methods aforementioned to induce a drift. Downshift to keep fishtailing. 2. Entering the corner, the car is already sliding. Countersteer. 3. Keep the front of the car facing the direction of the exit of the corner 4. Gently tap the gas to have the rear tyres regain traction upon exit =============================================================================== 11.11 Drifting--Powerslide ...................... %DPwrSaa =============================================================================== #=============# | What is it? | #=============# Have the excessive power in the rear wheels released causing the car to slide. #==============# | Applications | #==============# - FR cars #=======# | To do | #=======# 1. Before entering the corner, reduce speed and downshift 2. Entering the corner, gas off and turn the wheel a little 3. Full throttle in a sudden and release it immediately 4. The rear wheels will lose traction due to the sudden power input 5. Use the gas pedal to adjust the "slidiness". The more you gun the gas, the more the rear slides sideways 6. Gently full the gas upon exit (Submitted by Fox) Based on personal experience, Powersliding is a beginner friendly technique with Sidebrake Drifting in second because (not sure about BG4) in BG4T, the steering wheel turns past 180 degrees. If you want to try your hand at drifting in BG4T and are still getting used to the steering, use Powerslide. I can back this up because using Powerslide, I gained the No.1 time in 3 courses and No.1 score in 3 of 4 courses in its Drift Mode using a Sprinter Trueno with only one hand on the steering wheel throughout the whole race. =============================================================================== 11.12 Drifting--Shifting Drift .................. %DShfDab =============================================================================== #=============# | What is it? | #=============# Downshift to carry out engine braking and induce a drift #==============# | Applications | #==============# - All #=======# | To do | #=======# 1. Before entering the corner, half gas 2. Entering the corner, turn the wheel hard, brake hard and downshift all at the same time 3. The weight is then biased towards the front causing the rear to spin out 4. Release the brake and full throttle upon exit =============================================================================== 11.13 Drifting--Feint Motion (Weight Transfer) .. %DFMWFac =============================================================================== #=============# | What is it? | #=============# Re-balance the weight of the left and right and spin the back end out. #==============# | Applications | #==============# - All #=======# | To do | #=======# 1. Before entering a corner, align to the middle or even the inner line and turn the wheel the way opposite the corner 2. Entering the corner, brake hard and then turn the wheel hard into the corner 3. Downshift when the car is drifting 4. Release the brake after downshifting 5. Full thorttle upon exit =============================================================================== 11.14 Drifting--4WD Drift ....................... %D4WDDad =============================================================================== #=============# | What is it? | #=============# The common nature found in most 4WD cars when cornering. #==============# | Applications | #==============# - 4WD/AWD cars #=======# | To do | #=======# 1. Before entering the corner, full gas 2. Entering the corner, aim for the apex, brake hard and downshift 3. A very slight slide motion is induced like that in a straight drift 4. Full throttle upon exit ________________ [End of CHAPTER V] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER VI: COURSE GUIDE _______________________________________________________________________________ These are only very rough work about these courses in the game. Later I will try to include a detailed guide which covers the landmarks for braking and turning, the cautious parts, and the optimum setting on each course (if exists so). The course descriptions found on Taito's official BG4 site are what really disappoint me; what a pity Taito's site only talks about these courses in brief which is of no benefit to the players. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) Courses ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There are altogether seven courses in BG4. Here in this section, I will include the official data of these courses followed by a course guide which pinpoints the important remarks. The following subsections will be broken down course by course: (12.1) Choushoukyuu -- Ultra Beginner Level : Daytona California (12.2) Shoukyuu -- Beginner Level : Itsukishima, Japan (12.3) Chiuukyuu -- Intermediate Level : (No idea.Email me if you have) (12.4) Joukyuu -- Advanced Level : Monaco F1 Formula (12.5) Choujoukyuu -- Upper Advanced Level : Mt. Shin Myogi, Japan (12.6) Dokyuu -- Dreadnought Level : Mt. Akina, Gunma, Japan (12.7) Choudokyuu -- Ultra Dreadnought Level : An Euporean WRC course (The new courses Shoukyuu B, Chiuukyuu B, Joukyuu B, Choujoukyuu B, and Dokyuu B belong to the newer installment BG4T, and will not be discussed here) In each of the subsections, you will find a table outlining a layout, where: __________________________________ | | | Length : ( A ) m | | Height : ( B ) m | | Season : ( C ) | | Time : ( D ) | | Weather : ( E ) | | Temperature : ( F ) C | | Altitude : ( G ) m | |__________________________________| ( A ) indicates the overall length, i.e., DISTANCE, of the course, calculated in meters (m) where 1000m equals to 1km (kilometer) but not 1 mile. Notice that in loops (e.g., Choushoukyuu, Joukyuu) the total distance is the length of one loop times the number of loops. Also notice that distance is NOT displacement. ( B ) indicates the height of the course accounting for the DIFFERENCE ACROSS THE HIGHEST AND THE LOWEST ALTITUDES. The value is obtained from first taking the lowest location in the course as a datum as zero, and second measuring the vertical distance of the highest location from the lowest one. The result is an absolute number which indicates the difference in altitudes between the extremities. The higher this height value, the steeper a course is, and vice versa. ( C ) indicates the season, i.e., the MONTH, and the SEASON, when the ride is being taken place. This does not affect car performance though. ( D ) indicates the time in which the ride is being done. Better say it the DAYTIME or the NIGHT. ( E ) indicates the WEATHER CONDITION of the course. Except for the cloudiness and fogginess in Choudokyuu, there is apparently no difference across the other six courses. ( F ) indicates the TEMPRATURE of the course which does not contribute to anything special. ( G ) indicates the altitude of the course which is different from the height mentioned in ( B ). The altitude is the VERTICAL DISTANCE OF THE COURSE MEASURED FROM THE HORIZON. =============================================================================== 12.1 Choushoukyuu--Ultra Beginner Level ......... %CCSKDb1 =============================================================================== This is a Dayonta-styled oval-shaped circuit which features high speed, and extreme steadiness. #=============================# | Official Course Description | #=============================# __________________________________ | | | Length : 2458 m | | Height : 2 m | | Season : June, Summer | | Time : 17:00 | | Weather : Fine | | Temperature : 29.0 C | | Altitude : 900 m | |__________________________________| "A super high speed circuit-yped looped course." (Source: Taito's official BG4 site) #==============# | Course Guide | #==============# Boredom is my first impression on this course. Indeed. The course itself is a resemblance of the Daytona circuit. The U-shaped turns are very wide and gentle. Full throttle and you will notice that the speed of your car may drop beyond 180km/h when you enter the turn in above 210km/h. If you can reduce the speed loss, it is your course to dominate. Remember out-in-out? Yes, that is what we do here. If you always align to the innermost line in this entire course, you will encounter the great speed drop aforementioned due to the loss of traction in all the tyres and, thus, the loss of power transmission to the tyres. Slight hollowspins occur because of the 90 degree turning of the wheel. To avoid that, you should get the slightest radius of curvature by accurately judging the out-in-out positioning. If you have played the Nascar seires on PC before, you may recall the ideal racing line thing, and that is what is applicable here to achieve a decent time. Try to minimise the extent of the wheel movement, and prevent the car from losing too much speed in the U-shaped turns. This course is great for beginners to learn how to stay as close but not in contact with the wall. It is also great to learn the out-in-out proper lining. A sense of satisfaction of winning the AI is also granted for beginners. =============================================================================== 12.2 Shoukyuu--Beginner Level ................... %CSIDMb2 =============================================================================== The Shoukyuu (Beginner level) course is a beginner course which is intended to familiarise beginners with it. The Shoukyuu course resembles Mountain Myogi, Gunma, Japan IRL. You will know it if you have played BG4's predecessor BG3 or ID3. #=============================# | Official Course Description | #=============================# __________________________________ | | | Length : 2636 m | | Height : 25 m | | Season : July, Summer | | Time : 12:00 | | Weather : Fine | | Temperature : 29.0 C | | Altitude : 900 m | |__________________________________| "A town alongside the summer sea. The course surpasses the Otorii (the birds' resting place, looks like a red gate) which can be seen far away in the sea." (Source: Taito's official BG4 site) #==============# | Course Guide | #==============# Keep an eye out on some of the corners; you may need to gas off a bit if you are on a stock car which usually does not grip that well. Also get to know how to full the wheel; the BG4 steering has a maximum of 180 degrees, not the 100-only in WMMT, and not the 240-that-much in ID. Learn to avoid the walls like the plague. Wall penalty on this course may seem to be very subtle but if the bad habit of constantly touching walls is formed, it can be hard to correct, and your skills will develop slower than the others do. =============================================================================== 12.3 Chiuukyuu--Intermediate Level .............. %CCunkb3 =============================================================================== The Chiuukyuu (Intermediate level) course is never a controversial nor a popular course in a way that I have never seen anyone doing TA there and never heard of suggestions about where it resembles IRL. I have no idea either. #=============================# | Official Course Description | #=============================# __________________________________ | | | Length : 1952 m | | Height : 28 m | | Season : August, Summer | | Time : 08:00 | | Weather : Fine | | Temperature : 26.9 C | | Altitude : 885 m | |__________________________________| "With the beautiful blue sky and meadow, it is enjoyable to run in the panarama in this great nature. Since part of the course is a gravel walk, care may best be taken not to have the tyres sliding out of the curve." (Source: Taito's official BG4 site) #==============# | Course Guide | #==============# You will come up to some sharp corners where you will have to use the brake panel and the handbrake to decrease the speed of your car and to help the car slides into the corner. If you fail to keep the car in track, you will be thrown out to the dirt where there are no guardrails to protect. Your speed and the steering of your car will be totally out of your control once you go off-road. This reminds you not to crash and not to go off-track but to reduce speed if needed. =============================================================================== 12.4 Joukyuu--Advanced Level .................... %CJMncb4 =============================================================================== This is my favourite course which resembles the Monaco Formula One Circuit. #=============================# | Official Course Description | #=============================# __________________________________ | | | Length : 3325 m | | Height : 35 m | | Season : July, Summer | | Time : 10:00 | | Weather : Fine | | Temperature : 25.0 C | | Altitude : 0 m | |__________________________________| "Course scenery. A sentimental foreign feeling with a dazzling vivid blue sea is overflowing the scenery. There are dangerous places and a 180- degree hairpin in the course." (Source: Taito's official BG4 site) #==============# | Course Guide | #==============# There are many sets of S curves on this advanced level course. Line-taking and hugging the apex is therefore a prerequisite if you want to enjoy the beautiful scene of this course. You do not want to keep crashing and being slowed down to 10km/h in an S-curve. After the exit of a tunnel thing where you will be speeding in no less than 150km/h along a straight, right after the end of this straight there comes a set of S-curves. Brake very very early and shift down to 2nd, if you are using manual, BEFORE entering that set of curves. You will have to slow down at all the corners in this course anyway. The entire course is overly narrow, you would have to use the straight drift technique to clear the turns. Now I provide some notes for you. I'll edit them if I have time. CP1 1st turn 100 110 2nd lefthander 136 3rd right sharp square corner 80 90 CP2 align right right hairpin 84 90 left hairpin 34 50 right 78 90 right b4 tunnel 85 100 S curves enter 68 73 95 CP3 145 pass speed Clear the S curve with no more than 5km speed lost! S curve 93 110 exit 117 Hairpin 35 60 right 78 =============================================================================== 12.5 Choujoukyuu--Upper Advanced Level .......... %CCJSMb5 =============================================================================== The Choujoukyuu (Upper advanced level) course resembles Shin Myogi IRL (Thanks to Odie). This is probably the most beautiful course with yellow fallen leaves all around the course. #=============================# | Official Course Description | #=============================# __________________________________ | | | Length : 5184 m | | Height : 214 m | | Season : November, Autumn | | Time : 14:00 | | Weather : Fine | | Temperature : 15.0 C | | Altitude : 600 m | |__________________________________| "The start and the vicinity of the goal are straightaways but they are actually the pass roads where the numerous curves in the course continue. What determines win and lost is how well one can get on with the rhythm of the course. Go through the course with great care one by one." (Source: Taito's official BG4 site) #==============# | Course Guide | #==============# -== Choujoukyuu (Shin Myogi) Reversed ==- ____________________ Introduction--Line The course is very narrow with tight corners. Precision in cornering is your friend here. You will have to apply the proper cornering technique here, which is line-taking out-in-out. What I see some beginners do in this course is to approach a tight corner from the direction it turns, for example, align to the right before entering a sharp righthander which is seriously WRONG. That way your car will severely understeer because you just do not have enough space to turn into the corner. Although it is the shortest line, it will take you to slow down even much more to clear the corner. The dramatically reduced speed cannot cover a longer line of out-in-out with a much higher possible speed. The cornering techniques have already been discussed in the previous section. To sum up on the Choujoukyuu course, never hug the inner part of the slight straight before a turn. Try to take a line out-in-out. __________________________ Introduction--Road Width Currently I am TA'ing hardcore on Choushoukyuu Reversed. First off, notice that the surface of the road is actually wider than what you see and think. Pay attention to the left of the road where there are fallen leaves. That misleads us to think that the covered area is not usable. I raced against the no.1 ghost car on this course and I immediately noted that it hugged to the left more than I did, and that is why I failed to manage to go as fast as it does. __________________________ In the first righthander, brake and downshift to 2nd. Keep the gear in 3rd once if the revolution is enough. If you find the car losing power in 3rd, that suggests that you are taking the corners too slow. Try maximising your cornering speed so that you can exit all corners with the 3rd gear without dropping below the engine's powerband. Practice line-taking, which is your best partner, until you do not have to touch the shifting knob. The second landmark where we really have to shift down to 2 is at exactly CP2. That is a wide 3-lane lefthander followed immediately by a very sharp and narrow left corner. Upon exiting this left corner, there is this annoying right hairpin right afterwards. If you are going too fast in 3rd, you do not have a chance to stay away from wall contacts. Even the number 1 ghost car in the world has to down shift here in this slow set of snake curves. Clearing this snake curve, gain power back and shift up to 3rd. Keep in 3rd. Alright, I guess your left hand is now getting something to hit. Yes, the nitro trigger! There is a straight crossing the end of CP2 and the start of CP3. Nitro here when you enter this straight! At the end of this straight, that is underneath the CP3 checkpoint flag, you will encounter an illusion. The right turn seems to be tight but you can take it in 4th (because of the nitro you will be able to reach 4th here). There is no need to brake too much and no need to shift down to 3rd either. It is granted, with a skilled driver, that this right turn can always be taken and cleaned with 4th. Upon exiting this illusion turn, brake in no time, and make an immediately downshift to 2nd. This left turn could be tight but is wide. Have the tail of your ride sliding, and enter the left turn with a decent speed. This is why I recommend you to use nitro to boost your speed before entering the turn. You can clear this section with a speed higher than you may have thought. Two more nitros left. Use them in the straight right before the finishing line. We come to an end, and now let's see your results. At least you should make it under 2'40". =============================================================================== 12.6 Dokyuu--Dreadnought Level .................. %CDAknb6 =============================================================================== Dokyuu is the Japanese name for the British battleship "Dreadnought", literally "Afraid Not", built in 1906. The Kanji "Do" in Dokyuu alone means arbalest--an ancient weapon that looks like a crossbow but can fire a few arrows at a time. I am not quite sure whether Taito here is trying to say "Arbalest Level" or "Dreadnought". After a few BG3 games I realised that that predecessor has it as "Dreadnought" in English and I guess so as BG4. This Dokyuu course resembles the famous Mountain Haruna, aka Akina, in Gunma, Japan in the manga/anime/game Initial D. Akina is where most of the Initial D races take place, and is also where the hero, a gifted drifter named Fujiwara Takumi in his AE86 Trueno, never gets defeated. #=============================# | Official Course Description | #=============================# __________________________________ | | | Length : 5969 m | | Height : 329 m | | Season : July, Summer | | Time : 02:00 | | Weather : Fine | | Temperature : 23.0 C | | Altitude : 600 m | |__________________________________| "A downhill course raising numerous legends of street racers of the night." (Source: Taito's official BG4 site) #==============# | Course Guide | #==============# This is the trickiest course in BG4. The tight hairpins, together with the runs only being available at night, make this course very challenging and hard to master. Apart from the steady nerve and precise handling a driver should have, it is also essential to have a car with a decent acceleration on this course. Do not rush. Brake very early. This is a downhill course and your car will most likely to be pulled to the front because of the slope. Always brake early and stay away from walls. It would be better to shift down to second to take a tight hairpin. You can gain speed back up quick if you clear a corner. Once you tap the wall, your car will be even slower. Occasionally it may come to a near complete stop. This is definitely the hardest and most technical course in the entire game. You must be overly fast on both straights and corners to achieve decent times. Having said these, I recommend a full tuned Class A or B cars to accelerate on straights together with your skills in pulling out around all corners to the maximum possible speed. =============================================================================== 12.7 Choudokyuu--Ultra Dreadnought Level ........ %CCDEub7 =============================================================================== This is definitely a "value-added" course when we consider the game play. The same credit is required as any other courses do but on Choudoyuu we can get a longer playing time. Usually 4 minutes providing a tuned A class car, and 5 minutes if a stock C or D class car. Full of bends and with its low visibility, the Choudokyuu has become the trickiest course of all in the entire game. This is also where most pro players choose to challenge one another at. #=============================# | Official Course Description | #=============================# __________________________________ | | | Length : 7403 m | | Height : 167 m | | Season : July, Summer | | Time : 14:00 | | Weather : Cloudy | | Temperature : 20.0 C | | Altitude : 1445 m | |__________________________________| "A one-way mountain road in Europe." (Source: Taito's official BG4 site) #==============# | Course Guide | #==============# Coming soon... _________________ [End of CHAPTER VI] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER VII: CAR GUIDE _______________________________________________________________________________ There are altogether 30 cars in BG4 for you to choose from. They are all versatile cars IRL ranging from mid-tier sports cars like the Mazda Rx-7 and the Nissan R34 to seasonal cars like the Volkswagen New Beetle and the Mitsubishi Colt. The square brackets  at the end of a car's name include the code of the car. There are four different car classes ranging from the best to the worst: S Class --> A Class --> B Class --> C Class The class which a car belongs to will be included in the following subsections. If upgrades are installed in a car, the game will register the car as Class S. That is to say, no car is a default S Class car. Instead the S Class title is awarded once you have purchased some upgrades (no need to be all). If you keep on playing the game and earn enough BG points to tune up your car, gradually you will get an S Class car title. All cars can be a Class S car. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) Cars, Reviews, and Optimum Settings ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- =============================================================================== 13.1 Citroen Xsara Coupe VTS .................... %VTSCnc1 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : C Dimension : 4190mm*1710mm*1405mm Weight : 1219 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1998 cc Maximum horsepower : 167 PS / 6000 rpm Maximum torque : 14.4 kgm / 5000 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FF (Changeable to 4WD) #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.2 Ford Focus ST170 ........................... %WF0Fdc2 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : C Dimension : 4170mm*1710mm*1480mm Weight : 1240 kg Engine specification : T2 DOHC NA (Changeable to 2.0L DOHC Turbo) Capacity : 1988 cc Maximum horsepower : 173 PS / 7000 rpm Maximum torque : 19.9 PS / 5500 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FF (Changeable to 4WD) #========# | Review | #========# Again this is an European car that Taito may not want to consider programming it a bit stronger. The Ford Focus ST170 is not a bad car though if you install the 4WD drivetrain quick. ST170 is comparable to Citroen Xsara aforementioned. The two cars handle very similar, and also share the same feature of morphing into a 4WD monsterious. (But how so IRL?) However, the Ford ST170 is a better choice. You can purchase a 2000cc turbo engine and swap the ST170 one. That makes ST170 an advantage over all the Class B cars. If you want the turbo engine, you must buy it before upgrading it or else you will have to waste your BG Points to start all over again. In simpler words, if you upgrade the original NA engine and then buy the turbo engine, the upgrades in the old NA engine cannot be transferred to new turbo one. #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.3 Honda--Accord Euro-R ....................... %CL7Hdc3 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4665mm*1760mm*1450mm Weight : 1390 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1998 cc Maximum horsepower : 220 PS / 8000 rpm Maximum torque : 21.0 kgm / 6000 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FF #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.4 Honda--Fit 1.5S ............................ %GD3Hdc4 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : D Dimension : 3850mm*1675mm*1525mm Weight : 1020 kg Engine specification : T4 SOHC NA (Changeable to K20A, DC5's) Capacity : 1496 cc Maximum horsepower : 110 PS / 5800 rpm Maximum torque : 14.6 kgm / 4800 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FF #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Joukyuu, Advanced Level (Shin Myogi) . Front Stabiliser U.Hard . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Soft 10 . Rear Spring Soft 10 . Front Damper Hard 9 . Rear Damper Hard 10 . Car Front Height Low 8 . Car Rear Height Low 8 . Tyres (Not mentioned) . Muffler (Not mentioned) . Wing Racing2 (Suggested by MATT on Racegame who runs a 3'45"877) - Dokyuu, Dreadnought Level (Akina) . Front Stabiliser U.Hard . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Soft 10 . Rear Spring Soft 10 . Front Damper Hard 10 . Rear Damper Hard 10 . Car Front Height Low 8 . Car Rear Height Low 8 . Tyres (Not mentioned) . Muffler (Not mentioned) . Wing Racing2 (Suggested by MATT on Racegame who runs a 3'18"397) =============================================================================== 13.5 Honda--Integra Type R ...................... %DC5Hdc5 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : B Dimension : 4385mm*1725mm*1385mm Weight : 1170 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1998 cc Maximum horsepower : 220 PS / 8000 rpm Maximum torque : 21.0 kgm / 7000 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FF #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by Ken): 1. This car got rev limiter at first gear for stock. The redline is at 9K RPM, but first gear is kept at 5K RPM. When I use Tune S, the rev limiter is removed. 2. Engine response is nice, even when it's stock. Powerband at the end is impressive. Speed gain was even higher than stock NSX at the same range. But when it is Tuned S, it was kicking too fast that one can mis-shift a lot. 3. Handling is good. Just like common FF cars, one have to maintain stability using left foot braking. But Integra and its sibling, Euro-R, got better performance in cornering. They turn more likely like an FR. 4. Transmission is very good. But not very good when it's tuned S, since the short gearbox suffer engine output. ITR probably is the best Stock B Class car. Yet for Tuned S, I find RX-8 was better in overall performance. TA on Akina was somewhat 4'25 (Stock B) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.6 Honda--NSX type S .......................... %NA2Hdc6 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4430mm*1810mm*1160mm Weight : 1270 kg Engine specification : VTEC 6 DOHC (NA) Capacity : 3179 cc Maximum horsepower : 280 PS / 7300 rpm Maximum torque : 31.0 kgm / 5300 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared MR #========# | Review | #========# This is one of the most versatile cars in the game. The NSX is extremely powerful, and dominates the best acceleration on straightaways with its 3.2 Litres VTec super engine. In regard of this, however, a reader andrewtch writes to me commenting that "I believe that review is wrong. NSX looses out on straights (0-100+km/h accelerations) to Mitsubishi EVO, SUBARU Impreza WRX STi Spec C and a few others too. However when picking up from mid speed (70+km/h to a higher speed) it is faster than most cars. Well...thats what I fell (feel)." The main problem of this car is that it tends to slide a lot when cornering. The exit speed is a bit lower because the back end of the car will be thrown out if being full throttled in a sudden. It is commonplace to have the car overturns and have its front facing the inner wall after a sharp turn. Wall penalty is severely harsh. The car will come to a nearly complete stop if it falls into the hands of an inexperienced player who taps walls. Skills and superb speed control are needed to manuveour this car well. The NSX is not user-friendly, and not a beginner car. #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Joukyuu, Advanced Level (Monaco) . Front Stabiliser S.Hard . Rear Stabiliser S.Hard . Front Spring Hard 4 . Rear Spring Hard 5 . Front Damper Hard 5 . Rear Damper Hard 5 . Car Front Height Low 3 . Car Rear Height Low 2 . Tyres Circuit Soft . Muffler (Not mentioned) . Wing (Not mentioned) (Suggested by dennisckk on Racegame who runs a 3'02"912) - Joukyuu, Advanced Level (Monaco) Alternative . Front Stabiliser U.Hard . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Hard 2 . Rear Spring Hard 3 . Front Damper Hard 4 . Rear Damper Hard 5 . Car Front Height Low 6 . Car Rear Height Low 6 . Tyres Circuit Soft . Muffler Racing1 . Wing Default (Suggested by Loser (literal) on Racegame who runs a 3'18"397) - Dokyuu, Dreadnought Level (Akina) . Front Stabiliser S.Hard . Rear Stabiliser S.Hard . Front Spring Standard . Rear Spring Standard . Front Damper Hard 2 . Rear Damper Hard 2 . Car Front Height Low 1 . Car Rear Height Low 1 . Tyres Circuit Medium . Muffler Racing1 . Wing Default (Suggested by Loser (literal) on Racegame who runs a 3'16"601) =============================================================================== 13.7 Honda--S2000 ............................... %AP1Hdc7 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : B Dimension : 4135mm*1750mm*1285mm Weight : 1250 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1997 cc Maximum horsepower : 250 PS / 8300 rpm Maximum torque : 22.2 kgm / 7500 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FR #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Joukyuu, Dreadnought Level (Akina) . Engine Upgrade Level 3 . Front Stabiliser Default . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Soft 4 . Rear Spring Hard 2 . Front Damper Soft 4 . Rear Damper Hard 2 . Car Front Height Low 4 . Car Rear Height Low 2 . Tyres Circuit Medium . Gear Ratio Super LOW . Muffler Racing1 . Wing High Downforce 1 (Suggested by Blitz on Racegame who runs a 3'23"753) =============================================================================== 13.8 Mazda--Atenza 23Z .......................... %GG3SMc8 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : B Dimension : 4670mm*1780mm*1445mm Weight : 1390 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA (Changeable to L3-VE Turbo) Capacity : 2260 cc Maximum horsepower : 178 PS / 6500 rpm Maximum torque : 21.9 kgm / 4000rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FF (Changeable to 4WD) #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.9 Mazda--Demio Sport ......................... %DY5Mdc9 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : D Dimension : 3925mm*1680mm*1530mm Weight : 1010 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1498 cc Maximum horsepower : 110 PS / 3600 rpm Maximum torque : 14.3 kgm / 4000 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FF #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.10 Mazda--Roadster RS-II ..................... %NB8CMc0 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : C Dimension : 3955mm*1680mm*1235mm Weight : 1080 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA (Changeable to DOHC turbo) Capacity : 1839 cc Maximum horsepower : 160 PS / 7000 rpm Maximum torque : 17.3 kgm / 5500 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FR (Changeable to 5-gear) #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Chiuukyuu, Intermediate Level (Akina) . Front Stabiliser (Not mentioned) . Rear Stabiliser (Not mentioned) . Front Spring Soft 2 . Rear Spring Soft 1 . Front Damper Hard 6 . Rear Damper Hard 7 . Car Front Height Low 7 . Car Rear Height Low 7 . Tyres (Not mentioned) . Muffler (Not mentioned) . Wing (Not mentioned) (Suggested by EvoX on Racegame) =============================================================================== 13.11 Mazda--RX-7 Type RS ....................... %FD3SMc1 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4285mm*1760mm*1230mm Weight : 1280 kg Engine specification : Rotary sequel twin turbo Capacity : 645cc*2 Maximum horsepower : 280PS / 6500 rpm Maximum torque : 32.0kgm / 5500 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FR #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by MazinKaiser1001) "I currently drive a Mazda RX-7 FD3S in the game, and I drive pretty ok with it if I may say so myself. The car is powerful and is an all-rounder, easily capable of getting very good timings on all tracks. That is proven by the fact that the FD achieved the fastest timing in the world in 4 out of 5 available tracks. "From my personal experience, it is not a good starting car to use. It has good straight-line power, but it does not tolerate incompetence well, sliding out easily and proving hard to control if the driver is not skilled enough. However, once the driver gets the hang of running the car, he is well rewarded when the FD starts running through any course as if it is rocket powered. However, it must be noted that the FD's main strength is in cornering, any good time attack will revolve around superior cornering work, though the car is definitely no slouch at straights." #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Dokyuu, Dreadnought Level (Akina) . Front Stabiliser U.Hard . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Soft 3 . Rear Spring Soft 3 . Front Damper Soft 4 . Rear Damper Soft 4 . Car Front Height Low 4 . Car Rear Height Low 4 . Tyres (Not mentioned) . Muffler (Not mentioned) . Wing (Not mentioned) (Suggested by YUAN on Racegame who runs a 3'17") =============================================================================== 13.12 Mazda--RX-8 Type S ........................ %SE3PMc2 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : B Dimension : 4435mm*1770mm*1340mm Weight : 1310 kg Engine specification : T2-rotary NA (Changeable to T2-rotary turbo) Capacity : 645cc*2 Maximum horsepower : 250 PS / 8500 rpm Maximum torque : 22.0 kgm / 5500 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FR #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by Ken) 1. Lightweight. Turns pretty fast on corners. I used to drive RX-7 at the beginning, when I changed to RX-8, I was stunned by how this car turns very well and follow my direction almost without mistake. (until I realized that we were running with Handicaps :P) 2. The engine is N/A. It got long powerband. Very long. But acceleration is not that great. When one loss engine rev or hit the wall, power loss kills acceleration. But that can be avoided by keep the RPM high during cornering. #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Dokyuu, Upper Advanced Level (Akina) . Engine Type NA (Default Rx-8's) . Engine Upgrade Level 4 . Front Stabiliser S.Hard . Rear Stabiliser Hard . Front Spring Hard 5 . Rear Spring Hard 3 . Front Damper Hard 5 . Rear Damper Hard 3 . Car Front Height (Not mentioned) . Car Rear Height (Not mentioned) . Tyres Circuit Medium . Gear Ratio Super LOW . Muffler Racing 1 . Wing (Not mentioned) (Suggested by D on Racegame who runs a 3'17"504) =============================================================================== 13.13 Mini Mini Cooper S ........................ %RE16Nc3 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : C Dimension : 3655mm*1690mm*1455mm Weight : 1108 kg Engine specification : T4 SOHC super charger (Changeable to Super Charger JCW) Capacity : 1598 cc Maximum horsepower : 170 PS / 6000 rpm Maximum torque : 22.0 kgm / 4000 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FF #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.14 Mitsubishi Motors--Colt Plus Sport-X ...... %Z23WCc4 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : D Dimension : 4185mm*1680mm*1550mm Weight : 1080 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1499 cc Maximum horsepower : 105 PS / 6000 rpm Maximum torque : 14.4 kgm / 4000 rpm Drivetrain : CVT FF #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by Ken) Class D. VERY VERY SLOW. I don't know why, but class D in BG4, even if it is S Tuned accelerate very slow. Even not faster than real same car. (I said this because I once droved a Honda Jazz. Well, just my two cent. We drove class D just for fun and to laugh at. :D. #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.15 Mitsubishi Motors--Lancer Evolution IX GSR . %CT9ALc5 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4490mm*1770mm*1450mm Weight : 1410 kg Engine specification : V4 DOHC (Turbo) Capacity : 1997 cc Maximum horsepower : 280 PS / 6500 rpm Maximum torque : 40.8 kgm /3000 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared AWD (Changeable to 5-gear) #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by Ken) 1. Rev limiter and short power band. One has to shift even before the light turns on. You will got only 1/10 second until the rev limiter [does] [its] job. Frustrating since when you mis-shift, engine rev will drop to a level in which turbo do[es]n't work. So the time loss due to mis-shift is very big. 2. But AWD power contribute[s] a lot for handling. When one can handle transmission problem[s], this car can keep up with even [the] Skyline. #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Joukyuu, Advanced Level (Monaco) . Front Stabiliser (Not mentioned) . Rear Stabiliser (Not mentioned) . Front Spring Hard 7 . Rear Spring Hard 7 . Front Damper Hard 7 . Rear Damper Hard 7 . Car Front Height Low 9 . Car Rear Height Low 10 . Tyres (Not mentioned) . Muffler (Not mentioned) . Wing (Not mentioned) (Suggested by someone on the Racegame Forum who runs a 3'16") =============================================================================== 13.16 Nissan--Fairlady Z Version ST ............. %Z33FLc6 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4310mm*1815mm*1315mm Weight : 1450kg Engine specification : V6 DOHC NA (Changeable to RB26DETT Turbo) Capacity : 3498 cc Maximum horsepower : 280 PS / 6200 rpm Maximum torque : 37 kgm / 4800 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FR #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by K.T.) "Afterthought / review: Have been running a couple of races with this settings. The car packs alot of power and regains speed like a mad hound out of corners, the car tends to get very difty and crashes if you enter a corner taking the wrong line. Braking and down-gearing early is a must. Power: 8/10 Pickup: 6/10 Control: 3/10" #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Submitted by K.T.) "Optimum Setting for Z33 . Brake Type : Brake Lvl 3 . Tyre Type : HG radial . Stabilizer F : Standard F Stabi . Stabilizer R : Standard R Stabi . Damper & spring : Standard Sas . Body lightening and rigidity: Lvl 2 . Drive train : Standard drive train . Final gear : Standard settings . Gearbox : Six velocities MT-FR . Bonnet : Standard . Side-view mirror : Standard . Roof : Standard . Side Parts : Standard . Reception desk parts : Standard . Rear parts : Racing 1 . Wing : Rally . Engine Type : RB26DETT TURBO . Power Up: Lvl 3 . Blow off value : Type 1 . Boost Pressure : Low 1 . Cooling : Lvl 2 . Muffler : Standard "External Accessories: . Body Color : Red . Lights Color : Violet . Mud Flap : Mud Flap Red . Accessories : Nil . Wheel Type : 5*1 premiums . Wheel Color : Silver . Rim Color : None . Window Color : Normal =============================================================================== 13.17 Nissan--March 12SR ........................ %AK12Nc7 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : D Dimension : 3695mm*1670mm*1505mm Weight : 920 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1240 cc Maximum horsepower : 108 PS / 6900 rpm Maximum torque : 13.7 kgm / 3600 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FF #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.18 Nissan--Silvia spec-R Aero ................ %S15NSc8 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : B Dimension : 4445mm*1695mm*1285mm Weight : 1240 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC turbo (Changeable to SpecS NA) Capacity : 1998 cc Maximum horsepower : 250 PS / 6400 rpm Maximum torque : 28.0 kgm / 4800 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FR (changeable to 5-gear) #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by soranGTR) "Hi. It's my first time here, and since townranger's FAQ could use more car reviews, I think it'll be nice if we posted up our reviews of them, especially those rather more rarely-used ones. "I'll get the ball rolling with my review of the Silvia S15, one I haven't see too many people using. Here in Singapore, apart from me there's only one or two other fellows i've seen using it. "Of all the cars I've tested so far (I have a GT-R and a FD in addition to the S15) this car without a doubt qualifies as the hardest to handle among them. It is very unforgiving to those who have lousy throttle and braking control, due to the single turbo it mounts. You can feel it the moment it kicks in as a sudden jolt of power which can catch new players off guard, especially if you habitually run on high boost settings like I do. This car, along with its older Silvia siblings was born to be a drifter in real life, and it shows in this game with its tail kicking out very easily. A friend of mine who tested his S15 on Haruna downhill without a rear spoiler joked that he felt that he was like running the D1 GP downhill. "This car gets two special performance items unique to it. I'm not too sure if to call them upgrades though, since they change the characteristics of the car quite drastically in the process. First of them is the SR20DE engine swap, which is basically the normal engine without the turbo. Personally i have mixed feelings about the engine swap, as while you gain excellent response on the corners due to the lack of any turbo lag, you lose much-needed horsepower and acceleration on the straights. Plus i feel that a Silvia S15 just isn't a S15 without a kickass turbo in it ;-) "The second one is the transmission change, from a normal 6-gear MT-FR to that of a 6-gear MT;CROSS-FR. The site wasn't too informative as to what the CROSS-FR box does, but from my own personal experience it tightens the gear ratio further to one resembling a autocross or rally car. With the gearbox change, the acceleration of the car improves significantly at the expense of top speed, especially if you use the Super Low final gear setting. It also means that you will be doing alot of shifting up and down at the corners, especially on the more technical courses like Myogi and Haruna. Try out both and see which one suits you best. "I'll dig out my Myogi standard suspension and gear settings soon and post them here if I can. I ran a 2:38:.xxx on it, which isnt very fast to begin with, but every little bit helps." #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Joukyuu, Advanced Level (Monaco) . Front Stabiliser U.Hard . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Standard . Rear Spring Standard . Front Damper Hard 4 . Rear Damper Hard 4 . Car Front Height Standard . Car Rear Height Low 2 . Tyres Circuit Soft . Gear Ratio HIGH . Muffler (Not mentioned) . Wing (Not mentioned) (Suggested by hino on the Racegame Forum who runs a 3'13"6) =============================================================================== 13.19 Nissan--Skyline GT-R V-specII ............. %BNR34c9 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4600mm*1785mm*1360mm Weight : 1560 kg Engine specification : Straight V6 DOHC twin turbo (Thanks to DustyEX90) Capacity : 2568 cc Maximum horsepower : 280 PS/ 6800 rpm Maximum torque : 40.0 kgm / 4400 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared 4WD #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by Ken) Dunno why, but I don't see you/anyone review this car. Is it useless to say: "THIS CAR IS MAD, IT ACCELERATES LIKE ROCKET EVEN AFTER HITTING GUARDRAILS????" or: "WOW, YOU STILL ASK FOR REVIEW???" Even so, my friend feels something wrong with R34 despite engine performance. Brake problem. I'd say it was because of the weight. I have to brake earlier than I have to when I use NSX or RX-7 or Impreza. But again, engine response is crazy. We can choose to hi-revving or even shift-up earlier for cornering. I myself got 3:22:3xx with AI Tuned S on Akina. And there is still 4-6 seconds that can be cut off with better shifting point and cornering speed and line. #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Choujoukyuu, Upper Advanced Level (Shin Myogi) . Front Stabiliser Hard . Rear Stabiliser Hard . Front Spring Normal . Rear Spring Normal . Front Damper Hard 1 . Rear Damper Hard 1 . Car Front Height Low 5 . Car Rear Height Low 5 . Tyres Circuit Soft . Gear Ratio (Not mentioned) . Muffler Racing1 . Wing Racing2 (Suggested by White Angel (literally) on Racegame who runs a 2'35"671) - Dokyuu, Dreadnought Level (Akina) . Front Stabiliser S.Hard . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Hard 4 . Rear Spring Hard 5 . Front Damper Hard 4 . Rear Damper Hard 5 . Car Front Height Low 6 . Car Rear Height Low 4 . Tyres Circuit Soft . Gear Ratio (Not mentioned) . Muffler Racing1 . Wing Default (Suggested by Bready (literally) on Racegame who runs a 3'11"209) - Choudokyuu, SuperDreadnought Level . Front Stabiliser S.Hard . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Soft 8 . Rear Spring Soft 7 . Front Damper Hard 8 . Rear Damper Hard 7 . Car Front Height Low 3 . Car Rear Height Low 2 . Tyres Circuit Medium . Gear Ratio Super Low . Muffler Racing 1 . Wing High Downforce 1 . Engine Level 3 (Suggested by ..G on Racegame who runs a 4'17"145) =============================================================================== 13.20 Peugeot 206 RC ............................ %206Pgk0 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : C Dimension : 3835mm*1675mm*1440mm Weight : 1110 kg Engine specification : Staright4 DOHC NA (Changeable to DOHC Turbo) Capacity : 1997 cc Maximum horsepower : 177 PS / 7000 rpm Maximum torque : 20.6 kgm / 4750 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FF (Changeable to 4WD) #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by Ken) Not much, but like what you said in the FAQ, this car can simply overrun some other inferior B Class. Probably the best of C Class when tuned S. #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.21 Renault Lutecia Renault sport V6 .......... %BL7Xbk1 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : B Dimension : 3840mm*1830mm*1355mm Weight : 1400 kg Engine specification : V6 DOHC NA Capacity : 2946 cc Maximum horsepower : 254 PS / 7150 rpm Maximum torque : 30.6 kgm / 4650 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared MR #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.22 Subaru--Impreza WRX STi spec C ............ %GDBSbk2 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4415mm*1740mm*1425mm Weight : 1390kg Engine specification : F4 Twin Scroll Turbo Capacity : 1994 cc Maximum horsepower : 280 PS / 6400 rpm Maximum torque : 42 kgm / 4400 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared AWD #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by Ken) I'd like to add some more for this car, this WRX probably got the best overall performance for Class A Car. Very easy to handle. Sufficient engine power and nice engine sound :D. Yeah, nice one and unlike any other, the sound is special and it gives superior sensation. My friend was driving an R34, and when he heard the-so-special-roar-of-boxster- engine-of-Subaru from the back, he recognized it pretty easily it was me closing the gap :). But that's not all, Subaru got a long gearbox, along with fast acceleration from desirable rev band, lightweight dimension, this car runs very fast on corners. Even faster than Skyline, nearly close to NSX. But on straightforward, this car is nothing compared to the two Skyline and NSX. (Submitted by Shiseirou) "Right now I am using Subaru IMPREZA WRX STi spec C(GDB). Why I choose this because of the following reasons. "1. Since this is a reality racing game. I will like to choose something which is popular nowadays. "2. Subaru had been one of the leading racing brand for many years. Their cars not only win many Rally races but also produce many other type of cars for different users "3. I always believe drifting will win races. Subaru can do it. I not saying others cars can't, but i like 4WD drifting. Just like rally. "4. Remember this game is like driving a real car, a reality game, so I don't choose a car just because oh, I like Initial D so I choose that AE86. I like 2 fast 2 furious, so i choose GTR 34. "5. Although I don't know much about cars, I personally think that Subaru IMPREZA has the balance on both speed and control. Not too fast, not too slow. Just the right speed." #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# - Dokyuu, Dreadnought Level (Akina) . Engine Upgrade Level 3 . Front Stabiliser U.Hard . Rear Stabiliser U.Hard . Front Spring Soft 10 . Rear Spring Soft 10 . Front Damper Hard 10 . Rear Damper Hard 10 . Car Front Height Low 8 . Car Rear Height Low 9 . Tyres Circuit Medium . Gear Ratio Normal (Default) . Muffler Racing2 . Wing Rally (Suggested by daytona on Racegame who runs a 3'16"415) =============================================================================== 13.23 Subaru--Legacy B4 2.0 GT spec.B ............ %BL5Sbk3 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4635mm*1730mm*1435mm Weight : 1430 kg Engine specification : T4 Twin scroll Turbo (Changeable to EJ30 3.0L V6) Capacity : 1994 cc Maximum horsepower : 280 PS / 6400 rpm Maximum torque : 35 kgm / 2400 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared AWD #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.24 Toyota--Altezza RS200 L Edition ............ %SXE10k4 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : B Dimension : 4400mm*1725mm*1410mm Weight : 1390 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA (Changeable to 3S-GTE Turbo, or DOHC Turbo) Capacity : 1998 cc Maximum horsepower : 210 PS / 7600 rpm Maximum torque : 22.0 kgm / 6400 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FR #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.25 Toyota--Celica TRD Sports M ............... %ZZT2315 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : B Dimension : 4335mm*1735mm*1285mm Weight : 1140 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1795 cc Maximum horsepower : 200 PS / 7600 rpm Maximum torque : 19.2 kgm / 6800 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FF #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.26 Toyota--MR-S S Edition .................... %ZZW30k6 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : C Dimension : 3885mm*1695mm*1235mm Weight : 1010 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA (Changeable to 2ZZ-GE, Celica's) Capacity : 1794 cc Maximum horsepower : 140 PS / 6400 rpm Maximum torque : 17.4 kgm / 4400 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared MR #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.27 Toyota--Supra RZ .......................... %JZA80k7 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : A Dimension : 4520mm*1810mm*1275mm Weight : 1510 kg Engine specification : T6 DOHC 2-way twin turbo (Changeable to NA) Capacity : 2997 cc Maximum horsepower : 280 PS / 5600 rpm Maximum torque : 46 kgm / 3600 rpm Drivetrain : 6-geared FR #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.28 Toyota--Trueno GT Apex 3door .............. %AE86Tk8 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : C Dimension : 4205mm*1625mm*1335mm Weight : 940 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC NA (Changeable to 4AGE-GRA11000rpm, or 4GAE-Turbo or 4AGE-5Valau ) Capacity : 1587 cc Maximum horsepower : 130 PS / 6600 rpm Maximum torque : 15.2 kgm / 5200 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FR #========# | Review | #========# (Submitted by Ken) Newbies who love initial will pick this one as their first car. But within second, their hope will be torn into pieces. Steering was awfully hard, handling was heavy and many more negative aspects. There is just one plus point this car got that no other car have. It is the most fun car to drive. Pick Trueno, got to Akina, choose Standard Car, and then you will quickly notice how the car can turn at 1st/2nd gear FULL THROTTLE. No other car can do that. Not even Skyline, NSX, RX-7 or Impreza. Just Trueno. I once tried Shin Myogi Reversed Run. Trueno wasn't designed for that track. Excessive oversteer and foul understeer was friend of mine from top to the bottom. The only place Trueno belong is Akina. The only car you can smile with in Akina is Trueno. (Submitted by Fox) The Trueno is one of the ideal cars to begin drift training because its an FR car with low power. It won't dominate the courses with wide corners and long straights but it has the potential to be a force to be reckoned with on technical courses such as Mt. Akina onwards. This car is for those cornering demons who are looking for a challenging car to drive because you need an insane line to come up with good times with the 86. It can lose a hefty amount of traction during a drift so mind your entry speed and line. #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.29 Toyota--Vitz RS 1.5L 3door ................ %NPC13k9 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : D Dimension : 3660mm*1660mm*1485mm Weight : 940kg Engine specification : V4 DOHC NA Capacity : 1496cc Maximum horsepower : 109 PS / 6000 rpm Maximum torque : 14.4 kgm / 4200 rpm Drivetrain : 5-geared FF #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) =============================================================================== 13.30 Volkswagen New Beetle Turbo ............... %9CAVcb0 =============================================================================== #=================# | Data (Official) | #=================# Class : C Dimension : 4125mm*1730mm*1500mm Weight : 1310 kg Engine specification : T4 DOHC turbo (Changeable to 3.2L V6) Capacity : 1780 cc Maximum horsepower : 150 PS / 5800 rpm Maximum torque : 22.4 kgm / 4200 rpm Drivetrain : Automatic 4-geared FF (Changeable to 4WD) #========# | Review | #========# (Open for submission) #==================# | Optimum Settings | #==================# (Open for submission) __________________ [End of CHAPTER VII] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER VIII: FAQ _______________________________________________________________________________ This chapter deals with some frequently asked questions... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) Q&A/Summary ....................................... %QASmy8d ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This section recaps the most important issues about the gameplay, the game save system, and some of the in-game options. ------------------ Q: Can I use my BG3 key in BG4? A: No. The keys are different. The BG4 key reader can't recognise BG3 keys. So, sorry to inform you you have lost all your battle and TA records in BG3. ------------------ Q: When will the BG4 Tuned version hit Japan? A: December 2006. I'm not sure if your place will have it. I guess Hong Kong and Taiwan will have it in more or less January 2007. ------------------ Q: What is it that makes BG4 Tuned? A: New cars, courses, and a new cab with clutch. Taito has announced that BG4T is the finalised Battle Gear arcade installment. ------------------ Q: Is there a chip or module installed inside the plastic holder of the key? I can't find any. A: Stop finding. The data are not stored in your key but on the Internet. The key reader only recognises the key number. The key number retrieves the database in the BG4 server. ------------------ Q: Can the BG4 Netkeys be used on BG4T? A: Taito confirms yes. I have also tried it, yes. ------------------ Q: The coin slot underneath the Netkey dispenser is blocked. How can I get a key then? A: Buy it at the counter. If the counter does not have the Netkeys in stock, that suggests that the BG4 machines are not connected online. ------------------ Q: Do I get boost off as default when battling against a human player? A: No. This is not BG3. To disable the default boost on feature in BG4, hold the View Change button WHILE SELECTING the Battle Mode. You may want to negotiate with the other guy(s) to race with boost on or off. ------------------ Q: I don't wanna get fished! Help! A: Hold the Triangle Hazard button BEFORE you turn your key. You will unlock the single play mode that way. You will thank me later. Help me spread this secret. Fishers away! ------------------ Q: What if the Internet connection fails? Will I lose all the data stored? A: It could be slow but it usually doesn't fail. If that happens, it will fix it by itself. Don't worry. ------------------ Q: Will the BG4 server close down for maintanence or what? A: Yes, the BG4 server closes down four hours a day from 06:00a.m. to 10:00a.m. (GMT+9:00 Japanese time; do the Maths yourself). ------------------ Q: Can I watch a replay? A: First off, make sure no one wants to use the machine. Use the shifting knob, the Boost, and the View Change button to select a replay that you want to watch. ------------------ Q: Do I need to pay if I'm about to open a BG4 online garage? A: No but if you want to enable features like using your own customised sticker and organising your own team, you need to pay. I've, however, heard that the free garage is an exclusive priviledge that Taito offers Japan, Singapore, and Hong Kong. I'm not sure what they will do if BG4 is ever released in the US/European market. It seems now that Taito may not have offered a free online garage for the European market. ------------------ Q: How do I pay? I've got Paypal, Visa, Master Card... A: Unfortunately, Taito currently doesn't accept those payments. They only accept Netcash in Japan so if you're outside Japan, there's no way for you to pay. Try eBay if you really want it. ------------------ Q: Can I challenge/get challenged by someone else in the middle of a game? A: No. After you start, no one can interrupt you. All challenges are confirmed right after you choose the Battle Mode. ------------------ Q: Do I get free plays after I win a human battle? A: Perhaps there're different settings in different arcades but I've heard that if you beat three human opponents in a 4-players-challenging-one-another game, you can get a free play. Recently most arcades have enabled this free play feature. If it's one against one, you'll get nothing except the ingame BG points even if you win. ------------------ Q: What about the BG points I get? I wanna get more, how so? A: Ok, let's have them repeated once again. You will get:-- . 1000 if you force quit (by turning your key back or unplugging your key), . 60000 if time is up in the TA mode, . 80000 if you finish the course slower than the TA ghost car does, . 90000 if you finish the course faster than the TA ghost car does, . 85000 if you get the first place against level 1 computer opponents (increases by 5000 with each level; up to a max of 200000 in level 15) ------------------ Q: I'm gonna invite only my friends to have fun in a battle. We don't want anyone else to join in and then ruin our game. So? A: Get one of you to start a game. Let all of you join and then the guy who started the game has to press the Triangle button once to stop further join-in. But it is still hard to prevent walk-in fishers. Better tell the unknown player not to join you if he is willing to listen. ------------------ Q: Sorry to inform you you can get S Class cars without using a key. You got a key and start from a stock car? Why brother with it? A: The S Class cars you drive without a key have sports and racing settings. These settings are not best tweaked for a course for you to do TA or beat your opponents. You will need a key and buy all the parts to taylormade your own ride to suit your driving style and the course you are concentrating on. ------------------ Q: How do I use nitro? A: To use the nitro, you must first of all have an engine upgrade of level 3 or 4. Pull the little red trigger on your left up the shifting knob to use nitros. Mind you, there are only three bottles of nitro in a single run. ------------------ Q: How do I unlock the infinite nitro? A: There's no such a thing! Rumour has it that the AI in the Race Mode has unlimited nitro but this notion is now proved invalid. ------------------ Q: I wanna use the special vinyled cars . How can I get one? A: Get a Nissan Fairlday Z33, Skyline GTR34, or Mazda RX-7. And then refer to here--http://www.battlegear.net/bg4/car.html ------------------ Q: Tell me in what way I can make my slidey car grip. A: This is not Segarosso's Initial D. Expect your car to fishtail; this is what BG4 is all about. You can make it less drifty (but never a firm grip) by increasing the wing angle, and installing the grippiest HG Radial tires. That helps. Also, try not to gun the gas like crazy in the middle of a sharp hander. ------------------ Q: If the BG4 server starts unfunctioning in the middle of my play, I'll definitely lose my game and the record. So is it Taito's or the arcade's fault? A: As what Taito states in their official site, in such cases they hold no responsibilities. My suggestion is that you as a player have to be careful and do not presume the arcade attendants will remind you of that. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) World Records, and Statistics ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This subsection deals with the best world records... =============================================================================== 15.1 Hall of Fame ............................... %WSHoFe1 =============================================================================== (Last updated on 23 September 2006) _______________________________________________________________ |..................|..........|..............|.........|........| |....THE COURSE....|.DIRECTION|.....TIME.....|...CAR...|.KEYNAME| |..................|..........|..............|.........|........| |------------------+----------+--------------+---------+--------| | | Normal | 1'55"972 | RX-7 | KAIS | | ChouShoukyuu |----------|--------------|---------|--------| | (Ultrabeginner) | Reversed | 1'56"403 | RX-7 | KAIS | |------------------+----------+--------------+---------+--------| | | Normal | 2'06"516 | RX-7 | KAIS | | Shoukyuu |----------|--------------|---------|--------| | (Beginner) | Reversed | 2'07"643 | RX-7 | KAIS | |------------------+----------+--------------+---------+--------| | | Normal | 2'19"648 | Rx-7 | 0113 | | Chiuukyuu |----------|--------------|---------|--------| | (Intermediate) | Reversed | 2'19"667 | RX-7 | 0113 | |------------------+----------+--------------+---------+--------| | | Normal | 2'54"346 | R34 | .KSL | | Joukyuu |----------|--------------|---------|--------| | (Advanced) | Reversed | 2'56"186 | R34 | .KSL | |------------------+----------+--------------+---------+--------| | | Normal | 2'15"972 | RX-7 | C.A0 | | Choujoukyuu |----------|--------------|---------|--------| | (Upper Advanced) | Reversed | 2'16"817 | RX-7 | 8110 | |------------------+----------+--------------+---------+--------| | | Normal | 3'02"006 | RX-7 | .. | | Dokyuu |----------|--------------|---------|--------| | (Dreadnought) | Reversed | 3'02"570 | RX-7 | .KSL | |------------------+----------+--------------+---------+--------| | | Normal | 3'52"357 | RX-7 | C.A0 | | Choudokyuu |----------|--------------|---------|--------| |(Ultradreadnought)| Reversed | 3'51"899 | R34 | KEIS | |__________________|__________|______________|_________|________| The Hall of Fame is synchronised with Taito's page here: - http://ranking.battlegear.net/bg4/toprankers_tuned.html =============================================================================== 15.2 The WR Index ............................... %WSWRIe2 =============================================================================== The WR Index is an appropriate and valid judgement of how good you are in the game by comparing your times on a course with the world records... Below is what my WR Index is (sounds stupid but is a valid judgement): - If you are 51 or more seconds off the WR, you are a complete beginner; - If you are 41 to 50 seconds off the WR, you are merely acceptable; - If you are 31 to 40 seconds off the WR, you are qualified; - If you are 26 to 30 seconds off the WR, you are a good player; - If you are 21 to 25 seconds off the WR, you are a professional; - If you are 11 to 20 seconds off the WR, you are a dominating top-tier player; - If you are 1 to 10 seconds off the WR, you are godly; - If you are less than a second off the WR, or if you can make it the new WR, I SALUTE YOU! Refer back to the table of Hall of Fame above. Recall your time on a course. Try figuring out how many seconds you are lagging behind the number one world record. Compare the two times, and tell the difference. Then refer to my WR Index, and see what you are up to. =============================================================================== 15.3 Cars Rankings .............................. %WSCRne3 =============================================================================== Here, FYI, I included a ranking list for all cars:-- (in construction) For the most updated ones, visit Taito's page at ---------http://ranking.battlegear.net/bg4/index.html (You do not need to log in My Garage; you do not need a registration either.) #==============# | Choushoukyuu | #==============# RX-7 > RX-8 > Skyline > NSX > Fairlady Z > Silvia > Legacy B4 > Lancer Evo IX > Impreza > Xsara > Supra > 206 > Atenza > Focus > Altezza > S2000 #==========# | Shoukyuu | #==========# RX-7 > Skyline > RX-8 > Silvia > NSX > Lance Evo IX > Impreza > Fairlday Z > Legacy B4 > Supra > 206 > Altezza > Atenza #===========# | Chouukyuu | #===========# RX-7 > RX-8 > Skyline > NSX > Lancer Evo IX > Impreza > Supra > Fairlady Z > Legacy B4 > Silvia > Altezza > 206 > S2000 > Xsara > Focus #=========# | Joukyuu | #=========# RX-7 > Skyline > RX-8 > NSX > Fairlady Z > Lancer Evo IX > Supra > Impreza > S2000 > Legacy B4 > 206 > Silvia #=============# | Choujoukyuu | #=============# RX-7 > Skyline > NSX > RX-8 > Fairlady Z > Lancer Evo IX > Impreza > S2000 > Supra > Legacy B4 > Altezza > Lutecia V6 > 206 #========# | Dokyuu | #========# RX-7 > Skyline > NSX > RX-8 > Supra > Fairlady Z > Lancer Evo IX > Impreza > S2000 > Legacy B4 > 206 > Silvia #============# | Choudokyuu | #============# RX-7 > Skyline > NSX > RX-8 > Supra > Fairlady Z > Lancer Evo IX > Impreza > S2000 > Legacy B4 > 206 > Siliva ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) The Swappables ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The two sections below are the data I collected from various users on Racegame's BG4 message board. Thanks to all those who posted the data there. =============================================================================== 16.1 Swappable Engine List ...................... %TSEnLf1 =============================================================================== This is for your quick reference: 206 - 2.0L DOHC Turbo AE86 - 4AGE-GRA (11,000rpm) / 4GAE-Turbo / 4AGE-5Valau ALTEZZA - 3S-GTE Turbo (2.0L DOHC Turbo) ATENZA - L3-VE Turbo Colt Plus - 1.5L MIVEC TURBO EvoIX - 5-gearbox (Thanks to Odie) Fit - K20A (The engine of DC5) / CR14DE / CVT Legacy BL5 - EJ30 (3000 cc V6) Mini cooper - 1.6L Super Charger JCW MR-S - 2ZZ-GE (The engine of Celica) New Beetle Turbo - 3.2L V6 / 6-gear Roadster - 1800cc Turbo, 5-gearbox RX-8 - Turbo S13 - SR20DE / RB26DETT (The engine of Z33) (Thanks to Gerard) S15 - SR20DE / Spec S Engine (N/A) / 6-gearbox ST170 - 2.0L DOHC Turbo Supra - N/A Xsara Coupe VTS - 2L DOHC TURBO / 6-gear 4WD Z33 - RB26DETT (Source: The Racegame Forum) =============================================================================== 16.2 Changeable Drivetrain List ................. %TSCDTf2 =============================================================================== The cars listed below can be changed into the 4WD drivetrain: - Mazda Atenza - ST170 - Peugeot 206 - Beetle New Beetle - Citroen Xsara Coupe VTS (Source: The Racegame Forum) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) Bugs and Glitches ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Unlike other arcade games, Taito's Battle Gear 4 has its set of bugs and glitches. =============================================================================== 17.1 No New Internet Browser ..................... %FBugGG1 =============================================================================== This has nothing to do with the Battle Gear 4 arcade machines but with the internet online "My Garage" function provided by Taito's server. There is a programming error, which I heard from the Racegame Forum, that with Internet Explorer (R) as your internet browser, if you "open a new window" to browse and buy parts for your BG4 ride in "My Garage", you will not get the parts that you suppose you have bought but your BG points will still have been deducted. =============================================================================== 17.2 No Race Mode Level Backtrack ................ %FBugGG2 =============================================================================== It is confirmed that in Battle Gear 4 (but may not be in Battle Gear 4 Tuned) in the Race Mode if you skip a/some level(s) of the AI and have won the first place, later when you get back to the lower level(s) and manage to get in first, the game does not reward your win with a skill point. Let me give a brief example, if you have not played Levels 1 and 2 but you skip right away into battling against the Level 3 AI's, and if you win, of course you will get one skill point. But if you come back to do Level 1 and 2, and you win, you will get nothing! That is probably because the game confuses your levels. That you have won a certain level means you must have won the lower one(s) in advance. The game presumes that you are doing the levels in order. I think I can call this a bug. Imagine an experienced player beat all level 15 AI's on all the courses in both the normal and reversed directions WITHOUT DOING THE LOWER LEVELS IN ADVANCE, s/he will get only 14 skill points out of the seven courses! S/he will get stuck with it forever! =============================================================================== 17.3 Link Play Trap .............................. %FBugGG3 =============================================================================== I have shared with you this story of mine before; inserting the coins, I found my credit brought into a linked play with another human player who went a "What the F**k" face. We inserted the coins at more or less the same time, and the game registered us as having a linked play together without prompting us any choices. Pay attention to the one(s) next to your cab, and see if they are inserting coins. N00bs do not know what is happening on earth once if you drag them into a linked play; and even frequent players like me may not figure out this bug. =============================================================================== 17.4 The Hidden Daytona Course ................... %FBugGG4 =============================================================================== This glitch applies in the very first Batlle Gear 4 version only which is the version before 20 December 2005. The reason I included this glitch here is that I believe there are arcades without live internet connection and have not yet installed or updated any patch yet. If patches are not installed, the version is an intact one that still has this glitch happened. This glitch does not appear anymore in versions that have the Choushoukyuu and Choudokyuu courses which are supposed to have been installed as an updating patch on 20 December 2005. Again, arcades without internet connection do not have the patch or the two courses, and these are where the glitch happens. This glitch happens when two or more human players are involved in a linked play picking Choujoukyuu (Mountain Shin Myogi), the one who chooses Choujoukyuu will be brought to there but the other players will be brought to a course that never exists in the course selection screen--the Daytona California oval-shaped circuit! All the machines will then restart itself, and the linked play ends. That Daytona California oval-shaped circuit is exactly the Choushoukyuu course available in later updated versions of BG4. This could be deduced that the course has already been out there in the software bundling the BG4 machines since in the oldest and intact version. Players in Japan and Hong Kong soon accidentally (or may be intentionally) discovered this glitch and unlocked this hidden course. Taito then saw the need to upgrade the software so as either to reveal this hidden course or to complete eradicate it. And they have chosen the former choice as a solution. I guess that perhaps is intended to be an easter egg by Taito in a sense that once something is done to have fullfilled a certain condition, the hidden course will be unlocked. However, the course could be obtained by some other means and that is why Taito decided to have the hidden course revealed. ___________________ [End of Chapter VIII] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER IX: MISCELLANEOUS _______________________________________________________________________________ There is some information grouped here in this chapter simply because I do not know where to put them... I picked up the information below randomly. I cannot decide where to put them, so I will simply include all of them here for later revision. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) Resemblances aka "The Ricers Section" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Pardon me TownRanger but did you say I AM A RICER?" The suffix "er" in English means a person who does a certain thing. A farmer is a person who farms; a teacher is a person who teaches; a doctor is a person who docts; an engineer is a person who engines. So a ricer is a person who rices. No offense. Seriously, we describe a ricer as someone who pays attention only to the appearance of his car, and who wants his car exactly the same as some pro-players'. I am inspired to write up this tiny subsection because I saw in BG3 a white Lancer EvoIV with the MONSTER sticker written in red on the front hood. That reminds me of Seiji IWAI's car in Initial D, and that is definitely what Taito is resembling. In BG4, however, there does not seem to be any cars that are made look like the familiar ones you saw on TV. Since Taito has released the previews of all the aero parts of cars in their official website, I then come across with an idea of resembling those cars in Initial D, and The Fast and The Furious. Enough said, let us get to it... =============================================================================== 18.1 Resemblance of Cars in Initial D ........... %MRsmIDh =============================================================================== You should be familiar with Initial D if you have watched the anime or the film produced in HK or if you have played the Initial D series on PS2 or in arcades. #==============================# | Resemblance of Takumi's AE86 | #==============================# There is this Toyota Trueno AE86 which the talented drifter Takumi Fujiwara drives fast to deliver tofu (bean curds) in Mountain Akina (aka Haruna IRL). To resemble Takumi's 86, you need (in the same order found in the Aeroparts page in My Garage): Bonnet (Hood) - Normal (Default) or Racing 2 Side mirrors - Normal (Default) Side parts (Side skirt) - Rally Front parts (Front Spoiler) - Normal (Default) or Street 1 Rear parts (Rear spoiler) - Street 1 Wing - Normal (Default) Accessories - None Mud flap - None Body colour - White and black Wheels - 8*1 Premium Rim colour - Black Hollow colour - Black #=============================# | Resemblance of Keisuke's fd | #=============================# This is yet another hero in Initial D. He is more stylish than Takumi. This is how to make his fd: Bonnet (Hood) - Normal (Default) or Street 2 Side mirrors - Normal (Default) Side parts (Side skirt) - Racing 2 Front parts (Front Spoiler) - Racing 1 Rear parts (Rear spoiler) - Street 1 or Racing 1 Wing - Normal (Default) Accessories - None Mud flap - None Body colour - Yellow Wheels - 16*1 Street Rim colour - Silver Hollow colour - Black #=============================================# | Resemblance of Keisuke's new fd (Project D) | #=============================================# Bonnet (Hood) - Racing 2 Side mirrors - Normal (Default) Side parts (Side skirt) - Rally Front parts (Front Spoiler) - Racing 2 Rear parts (Rear spoiler) - Street 2 Wing - Street 2 Accessories - None Mud flap - None Body colour - Yellow Wheels - 16*1 Street Rim colour - Silver Hollow colour - Black #=========================================# | Resemblance of Nobuhito's Altezza SXE10 | #=========================================# (Submitted by K.T.) Bonnet (Hood) - Normal (Default) Side mirrors - Normal (Default) Side parts (Side skirt) - Normal (Default) Front parts (Front Spoiler) - Racing 1 Rear parts (Rear spoiler) - Normal (Default) or Street 1 Wing - Street 1 Accessories - None Mud flap - None Body colour - Silver / Gray Wheels - 5*1 Rally Rim colour - Black Hollow colour - Black #=============================# | Resemblance of Smiley's DC2 | #=============================# (Submitted by K.T.) Bonnet (Hood) - Racing 1 Side mirrors - Normal (Default) Side parts (Side skirt) - Normal (Default) Front parts (Front Spoiler) - Normal Rear parts (Rear spoiler) - Normal (Default) or Street 1 Wing - Street 2 Accessories - None Mud flap - None Body colour - White Wheels - 5*1 Rally Rim colour - Black Hollow colour - Black =============================================================================== 18.2 Resemblance of Cars in FnF ................. %MRsmFFh =============================================================================== These are the ones in The Fast and The Furious aka FnF aka Too Fast Too Furious aka 2F2F. #==========================# | Resemblance of the Supra | #==========================# Bonnet (Hood) - Street 1 (EXACTLY THE SAME!) Side mirrors - Normal (Default) Side parts (Side skirt) - Street 1 Front parts (Front Spoiler) - Street 2 Rear parts (Rear spoiler) - Street 2 Wing - Street 2 Accessories - Ventilator and Antenna Mud flap - None Body colour - Green or Orange Wheels - 5*1 Street Rim colour - Silver Hollow colour - Silver #================================# | Resemblance of the Skyline GTR | #================================# Bonnet (Hood) - Normal (Default) Side mirrors - Normal (Default) Side parts (Side skirt) - Street 2 Front parts (Front Spoiler) - Street 2 Rear parts (Rear spoiler) - Street 1 Wing - Racing 2 Accessories - None Mud flap - None Body colour - Light Gray Wheels - Default Rim colour - Default Hollow colour - Default ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) Machine Locations ................................. %MnLoctn ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The BG4 machine locations can always be found at the official URL of Taito's, ----------------------http://four.battlegear.net/tenpo_list.html But not as all of us may know, the official site only lists out those arcades in which BG4 is connected online. Those without Internet connection and having the game offline are not cited in the above URL. So I would like to include the arcades with offline BG4 available. #===========# | Australia | #===========# - Amusement Zone, Melbourne city area. (Thanks to viiictor) - Bluehouse, Melbourne City. #=============# | New Zealand | #=============# - Yifans #===========# | Singapore | #===========# The Netkey is all $8 in Singaporean Dollars to purchase. ____________________________________ | Price to Start | Price to Continue | | (Normal, VIP) | (Normal, VIP) | |----------------+-------------------| - Dhoby Ghaut MRT Station | $1.65, $1.47 | $1.10, $0.98 | - Jurong Point Shopping Centre | $1.65, $1.47 | $1.10, $0.98 | - Lot 1 Shoppers' Mall | $1.65, $1.47 | $1.10, $0.98 | ------------------------------------ - Simei (but no internet connection) - Timezone (Thanks to smart_kidz and x3ternalx aka Fate) #===========# | Hong Kong | #===========# Listed at http://four.battlegear.net/tenpo_list.html #-------# | Japan | #-------# Listed at http://four.battlegear.net/tenpo_list.html #====# | UK | #====# - Scotland Aberdeen Beach Game Center (US$1 per play, offline) #==========# | Malaysia | #==========# - 5/F, 1 Utama Shopping Mall (RM$1.5 per play) (Old Version BG4) - 2/F, The Mines Shopping Center (RM$1.0 per play) - 6/F, Times Square (RM$1.0 per play) (Old Version BG4) - 2/F, Sungai Wang (RM$1.0 per play) - 3/F, Mid Valley Plaza (RM$2.0 per play) (Old Version BG4) - Top F (extended floor for TGV cinema), Sunway Pyramid Shopping Mall (RM$2.0 per play) #===========# | Singapore | #===========# - The Zone-X outlets (Thanks to Skyy S.K.Y.) -Jurong Point -Lot 1 -Dhoby Ghaut MRT "Online connectability is available only at Dhoby Ghaut MRT's Zone X Oulet. Other arcades which I regularly visit, such as the Century Square and Bugis Junction arcades, do not hold Battle Gear machines." Skyy S.K.Y. wrote. _________________ [End of Chapter IX] _______________________________________________________________________________ CHAPTER X: CONCLUSION _______________________________________________________________________________ Before we come to an end of this guide, there are some ending remarks I would like to make... =============================================================================== 21) Contacts / Submissions ............................ %CntSubk =============================================================================== Discontinued. Thank you! =============================================================================== 22) Credits ........................................... %XCrditl =============================================================================== I would like to thank: - You for reading *bow* - Me for writing *grin* - My parents for buying me a brand new computer so I can multi-task it - Odie for inspiring me to write this guide, and informing me a bunch of stuff - CJayC for hosting the best gaming site GameFAQs on the Internet - Kenshin for hosting the Racegame Forum full of top-tier players that the local arcade community will always speak of - The ACSII art generator:-- http://www.network-science.de/ascii/ - Taito (R) for creating this awesome game - daytona99 for his homepage, and insightful inputs - DustyEX90 for informing me engine mechanics, and reminding me that I've forgotten his submissions (Sorry) - Jhony for his huge discovery of Street VS Racing Suspensions, which is even more misterious than the Nessis! (but, of course, proved to be valid) - K.T., MazinKaiser1001, Shiseirou, soranGTR, Ken, Fox, and andrewtch for sending me car reviews - x3ternalx aka Fate for machine locations in Singpore - andrewtch for machine locations in Malaysia - Fox for sending in the tips of powerslide - J1M for informing me the TA Onemake mode - The godly player Marry (but is a guy) I met on Saturday night (23/9/2006) - Jim Breen for his excellent Edict Project - IGN for hosting this guide - Those who have emailed me for questions - All the websites and people aforementioned in this guide - And those whom I have forgotten I hope my guide here has helped you out with the game. ________________ [End of Chapter X] Thanks for reading! =============================================================================== ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Battle Gear 4 Guide finalized version 4 April 2017 Copyright (C) 2005-2017 TownRanger ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- =============================================================================== _______________ [End of Document] No trees were harmed in the writing of this document. No cars were ridden in the writing of this document because the writer travels to arcades either by train or bus and never in anyone's car.