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FAQ/Strategy Guide by KeyBlade999

Version: v1.10 | Updated: 01/31/14


Winner of GameFAQs's FAQ of the Month award for the month of December 2013! Huge thanks to everyone who helped me to achieve this!
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  • Game: Mario Party: Island Tour
  • Console: Nintendo 3DS
  • File Type: Formatted FAQ/Strategy Guide
  • Author: KeyBlade999 (a.k.a. Daniel Chaviers)
  • Version: v1.10
  • Time of Update: 10:39 PM 1/30/2014
  • File Size: 115 KB

Donations

While I do write all of my guides for free, it does take a lot of time and effort to put them together. If you're feeling generous and want to show your appreciation, I am gladly accepting donations. I don't know exactly what the donations will be used for, but just know that you would definitely be helping me make more quality FAQs! Even the smallest donation amounts are appreciated, and they are a great way to say how much you appreciate the work I do. If you do decide you'd like to donate, please send the donations through PayPal at the e-mail address listed below. Thank you so very much for at least considering this!!


Donation/Contact E-Mail

keyblade999.faqs@gmail.com




Introduction

Welcome to my latest 3DS FAQ. This one covers Mario Party: Island Tour. Mario Party is actually a series I've been neglecting for a while. FAQ-wise, I haven't covered a single game in the series since 2011, and my neglect otherwise extends about that far. I suppose it lies in part because, for one, other titles have been dominating my mind lately, especially Shin Megami Tensei, the Legend of Zelda, Pokémon, and numerous other excellent 3DS titles. Still, it hasn't lain forgotten: every now and then, I still pick up Mario Party DS and have some fun on it, the one I regard as the best of the Mario Party series thus far.

Given the only obvious presumption that elements between the DS and 3DS titles remain the same, I can't help but wonder if my opinion can be debunked. I mean, think about it: Nintendo has managed to make the Mario series as a whole adopt new functions when it comes to the 3DS entries, like Super Mario 3D Land almost requiring 3D for certain levels, or Mario & Luigi: Dream Team adopting the gyroscope for myriad attacks. Even if I didn't like some of the games, I can't deny the new variety. ... So, yeah, I'm definitely looking forward to playing this. ^_^

All of my mindless babbling aside, I hope you enjoy my FAQ!!




Game Modes

At the title screen, there are two modes from which you can choose. There is "Solo Play", a mode designed for only a single person to play on a single 3DS/2DS. If you want to play with others, you can choose "Multiplayer". This mode requires a 3DS/2DS for each person playing, and they'll play it through the Download Play app in the Home Menu.

After choosing "Solo Play", there are five more modes from which you can choose.


  • Party: A staple of the Mario Party series, Party mode is a mode in which you compete on the long-term with other players to meet some certain goal. Unlike previous Mario Party games wherein you had to have the highest number of Stars and Coins on a looping course, this mode is a race to the end of a linear, finite course. See Party Mode Gameplay and Party Mode Boards for further details.

  • Minigames: In this mode, you are able to play any of the Minigames in Mario Party: Island Tour. With the exception of the Boss Minigames (unlocked by playing Bowser's Tower, all minigames are available from the start. There are several sub-modes from here:
    • Free Play: You choose what to play at your own whimsy. The games all mostly for four players here, but any number of human (1-4) can play most of them.
    • Time Attack: You will play through ten minigames for the fastest possible time. Only one person will play. Each minigame also has an optional objective to meet if you want to lessen the amount of time used overall; see Minigames for more details.
    • Hot-Air Hijinks: You will play through some minigames against AI's to see who can get 3, 5, or 7 wins overall first. This is for four players; any number of human players (1-4) can play it.

  • StreetPass Minigames: This requires the use of StreetPass. After choosing a favorite character and activating StreetPass, you should be able to play against the characters others owning Mario Party: Island Tour send over through StreetPass. You'll see their character and some data before a random minigame begins. While the AI does control the opponent during minigames, their skill rating - which you'll see - will determine how difficult it will be to win. In any case, the Minigames section is probably best for minigame details. (Note: You can only fight each person through StreetPass once, unless you StreetPass them again.)

  • Bowser's Tower: It's about as much of a story mode you'll get out of this game. It'll begin with an elaboration of the story from the post-title screen demo sequence before you get into anything. It in, you'll basically go through a series of minigames. Further details can be found in the Bowser's Tower section for the general flow of gameplay, and Minigames for ... well, minigames.

  • Collectables: Here, you can purchase things with your Mario Party Points and view things you've bought. See Collectables for more.

Party Mode Gameplay

Keep in mind that this is a general idea of gameplay. It can vary quite significantly from board to board.

After having chosen to play Party Mode, you will get to pick one of the boards on which you can play. Details on which ones you can play on are found in the Party Mode Boards section. After picking your board of choice, you'll then get to choose your character: it's a purely aesthetic thing, so just pick your favorite. Once you have done that, you then get to see the settings for the game: the AI characters, their difficulty, which minigames you can play, and so on. Once you are sure these are all correct, you can then tap "Start Game" to begin!

Once you reach the board, you can get a brief explanation of some of its aspects. On Perilous Palace Path or other boards where certain items can be used, you will get to use them before moving on any Round. Once you start, you can roll a Dice Block to determine the order of the players. Then gameplay begins.

The time it takes for everyone to take their turn is defined in this game as a "Round". In previous Mario Party games, you were limited by how many of these could be taken, but now it's just a stat for the curious. Once your turn comes around, you can use an item or view the map (R Button). You can also opt to roll the Dice; you do that by sliding up on the Touch Screen. The value that you roll determines how far you go. Depending on what you land on, there can be a number of effects:


  • Colored Spaces:
    • Green Space: Nothing ... but, hey, it could be worse.
    • Red Space (Danger Space): Nothing happens, but it puts you at risk for something.
    • Blue Space (Safe Space): Nothing happens, but you are safe from something.

  • Movement Spaces:
    • +# Space (Dash Space): You will move further along by "#" spaces. If you land on a space with a special effect, it will not occur.
    • -# Space (Back Space): You back the named number of spaces, and landing on a special space doesn't engage its effect.
    • Piranha Plant Space: You'll move backward a number of spaces, based on a dice roll. If you land on a space with a special effect, it will not occur.
    • +# Space (Extra-Move Space): Only on Bowser's Peculiar Peak, this moves you forward similarly to a Dash Space. It's mostly differentiated by being a negative thing on this board (and being red).

  • Event Spaces:
    • ? Block (Item Space): You get a free item! You can only hold two at one time, though, so don't be stingy!
    • "?" Space (Blue Event Space): Something good happens here ... but it depends on where you are.
    • "?" Space (Red Event Space): Stay away from here (dude, it's red). Again, it's location-dependent.
    • "?" Space (Green Event Space): Something happens here, usually warping.
    • VS. Space (Duel Space): You will play a minigame here. The reward for the minigame depends on the board.
    • Bowser Space: It's never good... Something bad and random occurs.
    • "?" Switch (Switch Space): Found only on Banzai Bill's Mad Mountain, this permanently makes Banzai Bill endanger the upper half of the board.
    • Banzai Bill Space: Found only on Banzai Bill's Mad Mountain, this causes Banzai Bill to be fired.
    • Switch-Place/Scramble Spaces: Found only on the Star-Crossed Skyway, these change the order of the Mini-Stars on the Star Stage, either sending the front to the back or letting the person landing on this space choose.
    • Booster Spaces: Found only on Rocket Road, landing on these gets you an additional Booster.
    • Kamek Spaces: Found only on Kamek's Carpet Ride, landing here swaps everyone's positions.

  • Miscellaneous:
    • Challenge Area: It's board-dependent, but something must be done here to get by.
    • Branch Area: The path forks here, generally making you go on one at random.
    • Dead-End Space: You will be forced here for a certain event, regardless of your roll.
    • Goal Space: Get here and pat yourself on the back, for you've won!
    • Star Stage Space: On the Star-Crossed Skyway, land here for your Mini-Stars or Mini-Ztars.
    • Just-Right Space: On Kamek's Carpet Ride, you must land here precisely to be able to proceed.

After everyone has taken their turn, Round 2 begins. Then Round 3. And so on. Depending on if the board makes you have minigames each turn, they'll take place and their bonuses will apply before anyone moves.

That's about it. Board-specific details are found in the Party Mode Boards section of the FAQ, since the rest basically is a repeat of that mixed with whatever's on the board at the time. In any case, the general goal of the game is to reach the end of the course - whoever does so first wins.


Party Mode Items

Keep in mind that these are only available on Perilous Palace Path. Two can be held at a time, but only one usable per Round.


  • Setback Shell:
    • Description: It will move an opponent of choice backwards two spaces.
    • Strategy: It's generally a good idea to aim for the player in first place.

  • Backwards Bill:
    • Description: It will move an opponent of choice backwards five spaces.
    • Strategy: It's generally a good idea to aim for the player in first place.

  • Blooper Chopper:
    • Description: The roll of the chosen opponent is halved in value.
    • Strategy: There are two main ways to use this. Especially if you have someone in a Bowser Zone or nearing the end, you will want to use this on them. Another strategy is to aim for the person that got the Gold Dice Block or other movement bonus from the minigame (wait until someone other than you gets it) and halve their roll.

  • Lightning Score Striker:
    • Description: Removes three spaces from a chosen opponent's roll.
    • Strategy: You could probably use this on the person lacking an extra Dice Block or other movement bonus from the minigames to hamper their movement greatly. This item is especially useful if you want your opponent to land near a certain space. On a general scale, you'll probably just aim fro the person in first anyways.

  • Lakitu Leech:
    • Description: Steals an item from an opponent.
    • Strategy: In general, the Super Star, Golden Mushroom, and Custom Dice Block are likely the most prized, especially if you are in first. If you're in last, though, you may want to think about waiting for the Crazy or Chaos Kamek. The former is especially useful in that you can swap with someone of choice.

  • Dash Mushroom:
    • Description: Your roll is boosted by three spaces.
    • Strategy: Eh, something to use if you've got nothing better to do and don't care what space you land on.

  • Golden Dash Mushroom:
    • Description: Your roll is boosted by five spaces.
    • Strategy: Eh, something to use if you've got nothing better to do and don't care what space you land on.

  • Super Star:
    • Description: Your roll's value is doubled, even the bonus Dice Block from the minigames!
    • Strategy: Save this until you get the Gold Dice Block or other movement bonus from getting first place in a minigame - that one block could boost you an additional 12 spaces ahead with this applied!

  • Custom Dice Block:
    • Description: Lets you roll a number of choice.
    • Strategy: Unless you want to land on a specific space now or in the future, it's probably best to use it immediately for the highest value.

  • Crazy Kamek:
    • Description: You and an opponent switch places.
    • Strategy: On the general level, it is best to wait until you're not in first to use this. The only real exception is one wherein you could go back, then use a cannon or the like to boost further ahead than normal, but that's pretty rare.

  • Chaos Kamek:
    • Description: Everyone switches places at random.
    • Strategy: It's definitely best saved for a last-ditch effort unless you are in last place (in which case you could use it immediately). To the curious, I have calculated the odds of getting ahead or behind at random.

Current PositionPossible ResultsChance of Getting AheadChance of Getting Behind
1st2nd, 3rd, 4th0%100%
2nd1st, 3rd, 4th33%67%
3rd1st, 2nd, 4th67%33%
4th1st, 2nd, 3rd100%0%



Board Evaluation:
  • Reliance on Skill: 4/5
  • Reliance on Luck: 3/5
  • Reliance on Minigames: 5/5
  • Time to Completion: 45 ~ 60 minutes
  • Start-to-End Length: 50 Spaces

BOARD GOAL:

Your goal is to be the first to reach the end of the board.


MINIGAMES/BONUSES:

There are bonus minigames starting on Round 2. From there on out, every turn will begin with some sort of minigame. (See Minigames for details.) The result of this minigame will determine who gets what Bonus Dice Block - the first place person in the minigame gets the Gold Dice block, a boost of 1 to 6 spaces; second place gets a Silver Dice Block for a 1- to 3-space boost; third gets a Bronze Dice Block for a 1- or 2-space boost; and fourth gets nothing. These Bonus Dice Blocks are applied in addition to your normal roll, so you shouldn't ever end up moving zero spaces on a turn unless hit by an item.

For Duel Spaces, the reward for the minigame are items! The three items are chosen beforehand. First place gets first pick, second place gets the second pick, third place gets the leftovers (could be worse), and fourth place gets a metaphorical box of oxygen. These items usually include Dash Mushrooms and Super Stars. See Party Mode Items for details and strategy.


BOARD DETAILS:

This is your general board that can be used for tutorials. There is little you'll find unusual on this course, but for the sake of completeness, I'll detail it here.

After going ten spaces from the start, you'll find a Challenge Area. There, you'll find three switches to hit. You are supposed to hit one to lower the drawbridge, but which one lowers it is unknown: it's all up to luck. This is the stretch where you'll want to conserve any items you've earned, since pressing the wrong switch will make you stop. It is preferable to let those movement-boosting items sit until later; this will let your opponents run to the switches, likely fail, and increase the odds of you getting it right!

13 and 14 spaces in (4 and 5 past the drawbridge), you'll find some blue "?" spaces. These give you access to the cannon, shooting you well ahead of the group. This will take you to the Green Space before the fork, a 9- or 10-space boost depending on where you accessed the cannon.

As you move towards the 25th space, you'll encounter a Branch Area. At random, you'll go either along the main path or into the Bowser Zone. There is little to note about the Bowser Zone; the main thing is that it is a seven-space detour back onto the main course with a couple of bad spaces (Piranha Plant, Bowser) at the end, so you can get screwed pretty badly here.

35 spaces from the start, assuming you didn't go along the Bowser Zone path, you'll find a red "?" space. What this does is currently unknown to me. However, it's presumably bad because, as you enter this depression, you should get a warning against awakenening the Chain Chomp. I presume it will send anyone in the depression back some distance, but it's currently a presumption.

The path is pretty featureless from there on to the end. As you reach the 40-space mark, you'll encounter a Bowser Space and a Piranha Plant Space, so using items to boost over those is probably a good idea. The same can be said for spaces 47 and 48. The 49th space is a Dead-End Space where you'll need to use a dice roll to defeat the Whomp. The Whomp will take a 6 to kill, although it can accumulate across the turns - even if others come along, so be careful! Just past there is the end of the board.


Board Evaluation:
  • Reliance on Skill: 1/5
  • Reliance on Luck: 5/5
  • Reliance on Minigames: 4/5
  • Time to Completion: 15 ~ 30 minutes
  • Start-to-End Length: 15 Spaces

BOARD GOAL:

Your goal is to be the first to reach the end of the course.


MINIGAMES/BONUSES:

Every three turns or so, you will play a minigame at the start of the turn. This minigame will give those playing a movement boost depending on how well they did: first goes forward 5, second goes 3, third goes 1, and fourth just doesn't get anything. That's all, though - you probably won't play but one minigame throughout the whole board.


BOARD DETAILS:

Contrary to the normal state of things, the Dice Blocks, instead of being numbered 1 to 6, are numbered 1 to 5. The remaining sixth face (~17% chance of landing on it) is a Banzai Bill. If this is hit by anyone, then a Banzai Bill will ravage everyone on the lower or upper halves of the area. (He'll go to the upper half after someone hits the "?" switch at the halfway point.) Those hit will go to either the start again, or to the halfway point if past there. The only way to avoid this is to land right on the "?" switch at the halfway point or you, at the end of your turn with the last space you can move, go into any of the blue-spaced caverns.

When you move, it is always ideal to move into the lower caverns at the end of your turn. Between your current and next rolls, there is a 2 in 3 chance (67%) that someone will roll Banzai bill, since the initial odds are 1 in 6 and there are four rolls per Round. Those odds are far from favorable, so better safe than sorry - especially if you happen to be the one rolling the Banzai Bill!

This board is pretty short. It will take traveling six spaces to reach the Switch Space marking the halfway point, so you won't get there in a single bound. Nine spaces after that - now that you're on the upper half - is the Goal Space. However, be careful: the 14th space, just before the Goal, is a Banzai Bill Space that'll make him fire, knocking down everyone on the upper half! Hopefully, you'll be able to use a minigame speed boost to get by here. But, yes, it's a linear, short, simple board.


Board Evaluation:
  • Reliance on Skill: 4/5
  • Reliance on Luck: 4/5
  • Reliance on Minigames: 3/5
  • Time to Completion: 30 ~ 50 minutes
  • Start-to-End Length: 37 Spaces (approximately)

BOARD GOAL:

Unlike most boards in this game, the goal is not simply to get as far as possible as fast as possible. While that mindset will help you get along to being the best on the board, the goal is to get to the end while having as many Mini-Stars as possible. Mini-Stars can be found at set locations on the board: for the most part, the first to reach those locations gets the most Mini-Stars. Careful, though - you may end up with the Mini-Ztars, which subtract from your total. On a general level, it may be best to begin to favor the Duel Spaces for the sake of maintaining a high total. Totals are calculated when everyone has hit the Goal Space, so if you're behind, you can still catch up!


MINIGAMES/BONUSES:

On this board, minigames are not used except in the case of Duel Spaces. In this instance, those playing can get an extra amount of Mini-Stars - first gets 3, second gets 2, third gets 1, and fourth gets none. After passing a certain point (the last main segment of the board is entered), these are doubled to 6, 4, 2, and 0, respectively.


BOARD DETAILS:

As you begin playing the board, Toad will point out the next Star Stage - he will do this with every one of them. Star Stages are points you will reach along the path. There, you'll find four characters giving you the good Mini-Stars or the bad Mini-Ztars. Below this section are their distributions in the table.

The path to the first Star Stage is linear and simplistic. There isn't much of note along the path other than the Star Stage itself, found 8 spaces in.

As you go for the second of the Stages, you'll find a fork when you move towards the 12th space. There are two ways to go. The northern path is one space longer, but it allows you a higher chance of using a Switch-Place Space to alter the other of the Mini-Stars at the next Stage. Unless you're trailing, I recommend simply going along the shorter southern path. The paths will meet up on a 15th space, bringing with them a Duel Space, Switch-Place Space, and Scramble Space - all of these are useful for getting Mini-Stars in some way, so that's nice. For this second Star Stage, at the 18th space, beware of the Mini-Ztar character: without being screwed with, he'll be for the person to last come.

Past there, you hit the third segment. As you move to the 20th space, another fork is reached. Here, the path is longer to the north by one space, but going south is shorter and gives you two consecutive spaces where you can alter the Mini-Star order. Since the Mini-Star order is actually mostly Mini-Ztars, it's best to keep it slow on this portion of the board. The paths reunite around a 24th space (assuming the short path), with the mostly-bad Star Stage being the 27th.

Just beyond there is the final segment. When someone reaches this spot, you'll soon be notified that the bonuses for Duel Space minigames have doubled, so be sure to abuse that as much as you can! As you move to the 30th space, there will be another fork. The eastern path is longer, although it's slightly likelier to make the Mini-Star order become altered. Still, the Stars here are good, so I'd stick with the western path unless some opponent was nearing the end. The final Star Stage is at the 37th space. Be careful if you're last: you'll lose 7 Mini-Stars if the order goes unchanged!


SWITCH-PLACE SPACE & SCRAMBLE SPACE STRATEGY:

Especially as you hit the third segment of the board, you'll notice Mini-Ztars popping up a lot. It can be difficult to avoid these, and you obviously will want to avoid them. If you can't somehow slow yourself down as it comes to finding these, then an alternative are the aforementioned spaces. Specifically, I mention the Scramble Spaces. Most of the Scramble Spaces are just before the Star Stage, so you can readily assume you'll get there on the next turn. What to do with the stars is dependent on who's behind you.

If people are following closely behind you (like 4 spaces or less), you'll want to swap it so that they get the worst of the deal. If multiple people are behind you, distribute the Stars based on their actual position: first place gets worst, second gets second-worst, and so on. Again, it's best to consider that only when they're very close to the Star Stage, or you could end up screwing yourself! If no one's nearby, you'll probably just want to hand yourself the best deal as the first and move on.


STAR STAGE DETAILS:

Below are the distributions of Mini-Stars and Mini-Ztars at each of the Star Stages along the path, assuming they remain unaltered. Note that "+" means you get Mini-Stars, whereas "-" means you get Mini-Ztars.


Star StageSTAR DISTRIBUTIONS
1st:2nd:3rd:4th:
First (8 spaces in)+10+7+5+2
Second (18 spaces in)+10+7+5-2
Third (27 spaces in)-7-5-2+2
Fourth (37 spaces in)+10+7+5-7

Board Evaluation:
  • Reliance on Skill: 2/5
  • Reliance on Luck: 5/5
  • Reliance on Minigames: 4/5
  • Time to Completion: 10 ~ 20 minutes
  • Start-to-End Length: 25 Spaces

BOARD GOAL:

The goal is simply to get to the end of the course as fast as possible.


MINIGAMES/BONUSES:

Minigames will be held at the start of every third Round beginning with Round 4. These minigames, as well as the Duel Space minigames, will yield Boosters. (Boosters help to increase the distance you travel: see the details below.) The distribution is three Boosters for first place, two for second, one for third, and none for fourth in the start-of-Round minigame. For the Duel Spaces, everyone contributes one Booster (if possible: if only one is thrown in, then another comes from the Luma) and the winner takes it all, a gain of two or three Boosters! Since Boosters are used to multiply rather than add to Dice Rolls, they are extremely useful: it's actually probably best to save 'em up for one big ride. For example, four Boosters could let you finish the game in one ride!


BOOSTER DETAILS:


Boosters UsedMultiplierPossible Dice Rolls
0x10, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
1x20, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10
2x30, 3, 6, 9, 12, 15
3x40, 4, 8, 12, 16, 20
4x50, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25

BOARD DETAILS:

Unlike most of the boards, take note that this board has a slightly different Dice Block: you can roll any value from 0 to 5. That's the main difference here, other than the already-mentioned Boosters. If you roll a "0", you will move no spaces: this is true even if you use a Booster, since anything times zero is zero. However, whatever space you are on will take effect again. For example, landing on a Booster Space to get a Booster, then rolling a zero on the next turn will get you a second Booster. Similar things occur on other spaces. Thusly, as far as strategy is concerned, it may be slightly more ideal to save Boosters when on a Booster Space as you could end up wasting them with a "0" roll, then ironically get another. Just a personal blurb. In any case, the odds of rolling zero are always one-in-six, which rounds to ~17%.

In any case, this board is also starkly linear, so description here is obviously going to be pretty light. On your first roll, you'll probably want to avoid using the Booster Toad initially gives you, since the first three spaces (50% chance of landing on them) yields another Booster. Once past them, a Booster use is recommended: Spaces 8 and 9 are those that can warp you to the spot where another player is. Granted, if you're already way behind because you rolled a zero, then you'll probably want to land on them, but the odds are against you if you're in the middle or front of the pack, as so:


Current PositionPossible ResultsChance of Getting AheadChance of Getting Behind
1st2nd, 3rd, 4th0%100%
2nd1st, 3rd, 4th33%67%
3rd1st, 2nd, 4th67%33%
4th1st, 2nd, 3rd100%0%

Once past those spaces, definitely avoid using Boosters for a bit. Spaces 13 and 14 are Booster Spaces. But, more importantly, Spaces 15 and 16 are Duel Spaces: these can earn you an additional three Boosters (if you get first place) without waiting for that start-of-turn minigame every three turns after Round 4.

From here, you can see a counter on the right side of the Rocket Road, going down from 10 as you go forward, marking the number of spaces 'till the end. (Granted, the map also provides this, but whatever.) From this point on, using Boosters is extremely recommended. With just one Booster and a good roll of 10 (base: 5), you have a ~17% chance of winning from there. If you cram two together, the odds are closer to 33%; with three, 50%; with four, ~67%! These are favorable odds for the most part, and, even then, it's almost always, y'know, closer. In any case, though, beware the final three spaces: they, too, are those "?"-marked warp spaces mentioned earlier. In this case, if you're looking to use them, then something's wrong: there's no chance of getting ahead with these, so avoid at all costs.


Board Evaluation:
  • Reliance on Skill: 4/5
  • Reliance on Luck: 1/5
  • Reliance on Minigames: 3/5
  • Time to Completion: 20 ~ 40 minutes
  • Start-to-End Length:
    • First Half: 9 or 10 Spaces
    • Second Half (West): 14 Spaces (24 total)
    • Second Half (East): 18 Spaces (27 total)

BOARD GOAL:

To reach the end first. The main change in this goal, though, is an aspect of "perfection". The end of both halves of the board must be reached on an exact roll rather than grabbing a bazillion spaces and blowing by the goal ... like Rocket Road. =P


MINIGAMES/BONUSES:

The minigames here will occur on each turn. The reward for these are "cards", which are the substitutes for Dice Blocks here. Four cards are offered, and your place in the minigame determines which card you get: first place gets the first pick, second place gets a second card, third place another, and the fourth-place person gets the leftovers.

After a certain point through the second half (when someone bypasses the six-space barrier to the goal, usually), "Special" Bonus Card Minigames appear. The rewards for these are usually more significant, as well as determining the turn order the next turn (1st goes first, 2nd goes second, and so on).


MAGIC CARDS AND STRATEGY:

Unlike the norm, this board does not use Dice Blocks, but rather Magic Cards, to determine how far you go: this is more critical to the board's goal than you may think. There are three types of cards:


  • Random Cards: These cards are denoted by a dash between two numbers on the card. There are three varieties: "1-3", "1-6", and "4-6". Depending on which variety you use, you can get a random number between the two numbers named. For example, "1-3" means you can get a 1, 2, or 3; "4-6" means you can get 4, 5, or 6; and "1-6" means you can get 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6! Strategically, you should only use "1-3" for short distances, and "4-6" for long distances. "1-6" is just an "I don't care" card. In general, these are bad to use near the goal, and it's preferable to use the Precision Cards when you're looking to land on a specific space.

  • Precision Cards: These simple cards only have one number on them: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6. The number denotes how many spaces you will move on that turn; there is no variance, that is the exact amount, discounting the effects of spaces. These are ideal to use near the end since you'll want precision there to get on the goal, but if you have several and they total up in such a way that you can progress to the goal, that's also a great idea.

  • Power Precision Cards: These cards are by far the best. They work like a normal Precision Card for you ... but, for your opponents, it pushes them back the same number of spaces! When you consider the fact that you can only hold three cards at a time, and Precision Cards are relatively rare (especially if you're good with minigames =P) for your opponents to have, you can really screw up any iota of a strategy they have! These only come in varieties for 1 or 2 spaces, but even that difference alone can be significant enough to derail things. Snatch 'em up when you can! ... And, no, if you force someone back onto a special space, that space will not take effect. >_<

BOARD DETAILS:

In the first half of the game, there are two exits at the end of the path. There are, in total, ten spaces here: the goals are at the ninth and tenth spaces. With these goals, and any others found in this board, you must land on them precisely. While most boards allow you to simply slip by them, you must land precisely on the space or it's pointless. That the whole point of using Random Cards early and Precision/Power Precision Cards closer to the end. As an extra reward, the person to trigger the "Just-Right" Space will get a Power Precision Card (value: 2). Once the "Just-Right" Space is triggered, everyone goes along the path.

In any case, the first half of the board is simple enough, structurally. If you end up with a "3" on the first roll, you'll end up being advanced forward three spaces further, as if you'd rolled a six, which is pretty decent. This is especially true in the case of the Kamek Space 5 spaces in, since Kamek will just mix up everyone's positions. To the curious, here's how well you'll fare in that:


Current PositionPossible ResultsChance of Getting AheadChance of Getting Behind
1st2nd, 3rd, 4th0%100%
2nd1st, 3rd, 4th33%67%
3rd1st, 2nd, 4th67%33%
4th1st, 2nd, 3rd100%0%

He can also do other stuff, like move everyone forward or backward a few spaces; that's the most notable of his hijinks, though.

Just beyond there, on the ninth and tenth spaces, you'll find the Just-Right Spaces denoting the goals for this half. Landing (again, precisely) on either one will make you go forward to either half of the area. They are actually distinct, too!

If you went left for the second half, the turn order will be re-determined through the usual means. You keep your cards, though; if you have under three, you'll get more! The area is 14 spaces long and pretty linear and featureless. The main thing to consider are the Back Spaces. The first one (back one) is three spaces in. Most important is the cluster closer to the middle. On Space 8 is a Kamek Space; on Space 9, a back-four space; on Space 10, a back-three space. In general, I'd use my higher-value Random Cards early on, then use my higher-value Precision Cards to land past those three spaces, then use Precision Cards from there to land on the 14th space, the end.

If you went right for the second half, the turn order will be re-determined through the usual means. You keep your cards, though; if you have under three, you'll get more! In any case, you'll probably take notice of the numerous Dash Spaces all around. They let off as you get within six spaces of the door, so that's nice, but you'll want to stick to your Random Cards until then and hog the Precision Cards from the minigames: as Toad says early on, things could get quite crazy, and hanging on to the Precision Cards gives you a marginal advantage in case something gets crazy. The only things of note, beyond this, are the Kamek Space 10 spaces in, another 14 spaces in, and a Piranha Plant Space 15 spaces in. The goal is on the 18th space.


Board Evaluation:
  • Reliance on Skill: 5/5
  • Reliance on Luck: 3/5
  • Reliance on Minigames: 2/5
  • Time to Completion: 20 ~ 40 minutes
  • Start-to-End Length: ?

This board requires the use of three or four human players - in other words, it requires the use of Download Play with at least two other people.


GOAL:

The goal of the board is to be the first to reach the end without carrying a Bowser Card. Once there, you have to win a game of chance (to some extent) to finish the game. The odds of winning said game are about 33%.


MINIGAMES:

Minigames will occur at the end of the first round, and after Bowser Events which occur on Turns 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, and so on. The point of playing the minigames are for extra cards: by winning minigames is the only way to earn those with values of 0, 5, or 6. The distribution of the cards is as so: first place gets a "6" card, second gets a "5" card, third gets a "4" card, and fourth gets a "0" card.


CARD DETAILS:

This board is pretty reminiscent of Kamek's Carpet Ride: by using cards, you can move forward by the number of spaces designated on the card, which range from 0 to 6. The only value of note is "0" - this basically makes you stay on the same space, but its effect will reactivate as needed. (For example, landing on a Move Forward space and using a "0" card moves you forward.)

Everyone will begin with three cards. However, one of the players has a Bowser Card that is effectively useful for just being there. Additionally, the owner of the card will be the victim of a Bowser Event at the end of every third turn (Turn 3, 6, 9, 12, and so on) - this usually results in them being pushed back by 3~7 spaces or being put straight into last. After said event, everyone loses their cards and they're re-dealt, so you basically get a fresh hand each three turns - those with the Bowser Card initially are not doomed to have it eternally, in more ways than one...

(By the way, the odds of getting the Bowser Card are 1/3 with three players and 1/4 with four. The odds for getting it twice are thusly 1/9 or 1/16, and thrice are 1/27 or 1/64, and four times are 1/81 or 1/256. This doesn't assume any of the other ways one could get it barring this card-dealing, but if you're one to believe in luck, you may actually prefer to get it early on since you're very unlikely to get it again. But, in reality, it's all random.)

From Turn 2 onwards, you can draw a card from your opponents. Player 1 in the turn order will take from Player 2, and he from Player 3, and he from Player 4, and he from Player 1 (since he needs someone to take from). This is the main method by which the Bowser Card is transferred from player to player: this is important since the Bowser Card basically prevents winning. (Also note that the Toad narrating the game will somewhat hint at what card you draw: by using these hints, you can gauge as to where the Bowser Card is. Or you can try faking out your nearby human friends. Whatever.)


BOARD DETAILS:

Across the board are several green ?-marked Event Spaces. Typically, you will move forward two or three spaces on them, which isn't much of a problem unless you have the Bowser Card. The other option is to simply teleport to the space of an opponent, which, as ever, has mixed results:


Current PositionPossible ResultsChance of Getting AheadChance of Getting Behind
1st2nd, 3rd, 4th0%100%
2nd1st, 3rd, 4th33%67%
3rd1st, 2nd, 4th67%33%
4th1st, 2nd, 3rd100%0%

However, some of them also force you to get the Bowser Card from the player who does have it - you'll trade your lowest-value card for it. (That's extra bad, since it forces you towards the end for a failure in winning all the somewhat-faster!) In general, it would be best to avoid those ? spaces as much as you can.

As for the board structure? It's pretty simple compared to some of the others. The first half of the board mostly features Move Forward spaces while the second half mostly features Move Backward spaces - basically, this results in a sort of rubber band snap-back effect where you can speed along towards the middle with little effort, then get snapped back towards the middle. Of course, it's ideal to land on the Move Forward spaces, especially if you don't have the Bowser Card. Because of the Move Backward spaces during the second half of the board, you will want to try to save some of the lower-value cards for more precise movement there.

Once you reach the end, you will play a card game. (That is, if you don't have the Bowser Card. Those with it can't play and are shoved back three spaces.) You'll be shown six cards, two of which allow you to win, and four of which do not. (The odds, therefore, are about 33% to win.) The cards are shuffled and you pick one. If you pick one of the winning cards, you win, right then. If you don't, you'll have to try again on the next turn.


Board Evaluation:
  • Reliance on Skill: 2/5
  • Reliance on Luck: 3/5
  • Reliance on Minigames: 4/5
  • Time to Completion: 20 ~ 40 minutes
  • Start-to-End Length: 35 Spaces

HOW TO UNLOCK:

Initially, this board is not available for play, marked only with "??????". You can unlock it, though. To do so, you must play on all of the other boards - except Shy Guy's Shuffle City - at least one time each.


BOARD GOAL:

Oh, yes, this is quite the peculiar board. In most boards, you are expected to get to the end the fastest. In this game, you want to get to the end the slowest. Once someone reaches the end, they'll play a game of chance wherein they roll Dice Blocks to avoid getting certain platforms knocked out from under them each turn. Once they lose, the game ends and the furthest person from Bowser loses.


MINIGAMES/BONUSES:

There are minigames on this board every Round. These determine two things. First is the order in which everyone moves, relative to their place in the minigame (first goes last, second goes third, third goes second, and last goes first). Secondly, the worst players get the worst Dice Blocks: fourth gets a Gold Dice Block (1-6 spaces), third gets a Silver Dice Block (1-3 spaces), second gets a Bronze Dice Block (1-2 spaces), and first gets nothing added to their roll. Keep in mind that your goal is to get there the slowest, and the highest rolls for these people respectively are 12, 9, 8, and 6, so you can see the logic.


DICE BLOCKS AND ROLLING:

On this board, there is a special clause you may want to consider when it comes to minigames: rolling doubles. In this case, it actually stops you entirely for that turn. It only is allowed for people who got second place or worst in the previous minigame since they'll need to have two Dice Blocks. The main point of this section is to denote that, even though it can initially seem like going further back is better (because you have six chances for doubles rather than two for second), it's actually not. Here are the variables named:


  • Minigame Place: What place you got in the previous minigame.
  • Total Dice Combos: How many possible combinations of dice there are. This means your base Dice Block value of six multiplied by the "Bonus" Dice Block's possible values (2, 3, or 6).
  • Total Doubles: For each value on the "Bonus" Dice Block, there is one on the normal one paired with it.
  • Chance of Doubles: Your "Total Doubles" divided by "Total Dice Combos". Except for first place, obviously, each other place has a 1 in 6 chance of getting doubles. It's commonly rounded to 17%, but it's more precisely 16.666666...%.
    • Rolling Range: This, in conjunction with the previous indicates that it still remains best to do as best as possible in the games, since you want to go as little a distance as possible. (Keep in mind doubles are not accounted for (as "0" spaces) here, although the "3" is resultant from "2" (1 and 1) being a doubles roll.)

Minigame PlaceTotal Dice CombosTotal DoublesChance of DoublesRolling Range
1st600%1 - 6 spaces
2nd122~17% (1 in 6)3 - 8 spaces
3rd183~17% (1 in 6)3 - 9 spaces
4th366~17% (1 in 6)3 - 11 spaces

BOARD DETAILS:

As mentioned earlier, you'll start each Round with a minigame determining the Bonus Dice Blocks and turn order. Once that is done, you're ready to focus on your goal of not getting even close to Bowser: a goal facilitated primarily by winning minigames and landing right on Piranha Plant Spaces. Then again, the latter is moreso luck than precision. >_>

Early on, the board will seem pretty difficult. This is mostly because of the prolific Extra-Move (similar to Dash) Spaces around here: on Space 2 (+5), Space 6 (+4), Space 8 (+2), Space 11 (+2), Space 17 (+3), and Space 21 (+3). Luckily, as you can well see with 35 spaces being the total, it does die down after the midpoint, so it's not nearly as much of a concern. Though, then again, you're also screwed if you suck at minigames.

Most of the time, it's quite featureless otherwise. On Space 9, there is a "?" space to land on to warp backwards some, which can be quite helpful. Space 14 is a Dead-End Space where you need to hit a switch; if the switch triggers the wall to break, then you have to go forward. If it doesn't, then you stay there until the next turn, which is good. Soon thereafter is a "?" space on Space 18 which will bring you to other player's positions: a key spot to land on for someone in the lead of the pack. Space 25 is another warp-pipe space to move you back some, and Space 27 is another warping-to-another-person space.

From there on out, there's nothing up until Space 33 where you get one final chance to warp back before fighting Bowser directly for your life. You'll stand on three platforms and your Dice Roll determines how many get knocked out. There is a 50% chance of losing immediately and ending the game, so don't hope too much. In any case, if you manage to survive, it's just one turn until it happens again. Your luck wears down eventually, obviously: 50% goes to 25%, then 12.5%, then 6.25%, then 3.125%... all for a sequential streak's probability, anyways. Mathematically, you are not very likely to win forever.

In any case, once someone screws up, the game should be over, the winner determined by whoever is farthest. It's pretty much the true test of Mario Party skill in a way: the ability to manipulate luck and win at minigames is expressed here more strongly than anywhere else.




Bowser's Tower

Bowser's Tower is basically a minigame gauntlet. There are thirty floors to Bowser's Tower, and on each you can pick from one of two random minigames. When it comes to those two, you should consider several things: which you're best at, the ability of opponents/enemies to interfere, and how luck-based the game is. In any case, you should take the 90-minute estimate the game gives pretty seriously, although there is the ability to save. The only exception to the choosing rule is on every fifth floor (5F, 10F, etc.) you'll play a Boss Minigame. Click the names below to reach details on them.


MinigameFloor of Bowser's Tower
Goomba Tower Takedown5F
Chain Chomp's Lava Lunge10F
Mr. Blizzard's Snow Slalom15F
King Bob-omb's Court of Chaos20F
Dry Bowser's Brain Bonk25F
Bowser's Sky Scuffle30F (top)

On each floor, you'll meet up with the three opponents with which you'll fight against in the minigame you choose. They are of the Easy/Normal difficulties in most circumstances, growing to Normal as you go along to the sixteenth floor; in later playthroughs of the game, you'll also begin to fight Hard opponents as you near the top. At random, you'll find a block able to remove some or all of them from your opposition, letting clearing the game be easier. (Clearing away three lets you skip the floor.) Additionally, Bowser will at random affect something as you go to the next floor: for example, bring you back to the bottom or make the enemies even harder.

I think that's about it. As I said before, it's mostly about the minigames. I will note that there are several "quests". After the first playthrough, you can go through it again, but this is only for the purpose of gaining Mario Party Points and unlocking the "Master of Bowser's Tower" in the Memories of the Gallery. That about does it; if you need further help, it's only going to able to be done for the Minigames; see the Quick-Jump for 'em. Here are the specifics on Bowser's Tower unlockables:


  • Bowser Jr.: Playable character and Dhop Memory; finish Bowser's Tower one time
  • Bowser's Tower Tourist: Shop Memory; finish Bowser's Tower once
  • Top Floor!: Unlocks Gallery Memory; finish Bowser's Tower one time
  • Master of Bowser's Tower: Unlocks Gallery Memory; finish Bowser's Tower twice
  • Play 3+ Times: Earn 30,000 Mario Party Points each time for winning after winning twice